LINKS to all items featured in the video - (which will help you get the right tools for the job) UK Links- Post Buddy Pack of 2 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/38IfmTW Post Buddy Pack of 4 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3rRV1Dc Post Buddy Pack of 6 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2NleQnz Post Buddy Pack of 8 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2NlRD4H Makita DTD152 DTD152Z Impact Driver with Battery and Charger - amzn.to/3qPDc6r STANLEY FATMAX Pro Box Beam Level, 600mm - amzn.to/3lleKIV Rolson 10675 Stoning Hammer, 1 kg - amzn.to/3lki9b8 Box of 200 High Performance Multi Use Wood Screws 50mm - amzn.to/3s2QDSd USA Links - Post Buddy Pack of 2 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3gQrRSe Post Buddy Pack of 4 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2PDKluf Post Buddy Pack of 6 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3nC6fKH Post Buddy Pack of 8 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2S8PriQ Makita XDT131 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Impact Driver - amzn.to/3xEWuQP CRAFTSMAN Torpedo Level, 9-Inch - amzn.to/3t2IjBj Rolson 10675 Stoning Hammer, 1 kg - amzn.to/3eGB7WE Disclaimer - All links are an affiliate link and I may receive a very small commission if the item is purchased through the link, but it does not cost you anything.
Well I bought some and fitted them to two post on my leaning fence, time will tell but it looks good. However, found the buddies quite difficult to get hammered in, myself and son were taking shifts. Either you are super strong or we had super reinforced concrete ... time for a hot bath to ease the shoulder. Really pleased to see the video, was unaware of the product, and was contemplating having to replace a 30m fence ... got mine next day via Amazon
Hey, Glad to see you took the plunge and ordered them. The harder they are to get in the better support they are going to give, so its worth all the hard work. Hope they give you a few more years on your fence.
Well done for pointing out that the only bit of a post that rots is the bit that is in contact with both soil and air . Very few people seem to understand this
I've lost two treated posts since installing in 2018, one in Eunice, both rotten at ground level, and both good at least above ground. I think the preservatives used have gotten safer but less effective, to the point of making wood a poor choice for wet British gardens. Wish I'd seen this video before replacing the latest post to go.
I had a length of fencing blow down in a recent gale. Contractors quoted me £1900. The repair by another tradesman was £320, by replacing 15 year old posts and keeping the perfectly sound panels.
In most cases yeah, id say just put in a post but for the average home owner with no experience or tools and wants a cheap and easy repair then this is perfect 👌
@@Andy-2022 It isn't hard to do, most people use a small bag of postconcrete, easy to dig around, it would be cheaper and a better job to just replace the post.
If you have the ways and the means to do that then, yes ! Its always better to concrete in a new post but this is a repair video for thoes who cant do or afford a replacement post at the moment.
@@JamesMontana a post and concrete are about £25 and you possibly save that money in time spent not hammering the steel bars in, plus the cost of them too. Seems a bit "Heath Robinson" seeing as you've dug out half the soil already.
@@davidreynolds3082 Few things to mention. Soil took all of 10 seconds to dig out. It was a bad example of a concreted in post. Ordinarily there would and should be concrete all the way to the top. The average diy'er isnt going to have the means to break out the concrete without buying or hiring a breaker, let alone the motivation to physically do it. This is for thoes people who want... as i said a quick, cheap repair, that they can do with minimal tools, that will prevent pulling down the rest of the fence, untill they can afford to pay someone to replace the fence for them. Thanks. James
@@davidreynolds3082 My point, too. The post wasn't broken, only displaced and could have been easily wedged back into position using just stones. Cost: elbow grease and a bit of time.
I’ve done something similar about 3-4 years ago using 75cm lengths of 40mm scrap angle iron, I just cut the bottoms to form a spike, then drove them in between the post stump and concrete, once in position drilled fixing holes and secured with 75mm decking screws..... job done. The posts haven’t budged since installation.
Very helpful. My tip was drilling out the rotten wood in the concrete using a flat one inch drill on hammer, and sucking out the churned up wood with an aqua vax. The best bit was how easily the new post slid into the cleared hole in the concrete. It did no favours to the flat drill piece though!
A simple tip that i have used ever since i did fencing as a job in the late 60s. When you put in new wooden posts bitumastic paint the end of the post that goes into the ground but make sure 2 inches of the paint remains above the soil. This will make your posts last 4 to 5 times longer. Its the wet dry cycle that makes posts rot at ground level
We've done to this to 3 posts out of 20. We got quoted over £2000 to replace all the panels and posts. Not a permanent fix, but like the man says, buys you a couple of years.
This is a temp repair. NO tradesman would put their name to this method (unless they're cowboys).If you can break out the old concrete then spend an extra few quid and get a new post and a couple of bags of postcrete. it's better than botching an old post that will continue to rot further and then need replacing anyway. A new post that's pressure treated isn't expensive and will come with a 10-15 year guarantee.
Another Pommy DIY guy has a (free) YT channel. He installed a 750mm concrete post next to the timber one, and removed half the concrete. I have installed replacement posts and conclude that water and damp soil sitting on top of the concrete is rotting the post. Maybe beveling the top of the wet concrete will help water run off, and extending the concrete an inch above ground will work. Some people wrap a bit of plastic around the post like a sock. If you pour concrete to or beneath the post base this may also prevent drainage as water collects there.
Just make sure when you put in a post in the first place concrete above the dirt then it won’t rot in the ground ! Only the mud above the ground to concrete that rots the post ..
The cheaper option is to use a match...hate panels. If you do have to use panels then at least use the concrete slotted posts and gravel boards. My recommendation is to use sturdy tanalised posts and close board's it will last you year's.
Having had a fencing and patio business I don't like this at all sorry.There only one way to do this and that's replace the post. A kango hammer to break the concrete out or just lump hammer a chisel. Those straps are not man enough and the post is still rotten. Bodge job at best.
Ill be honest, i dont like it either but if i wanted a cheap, quick, temporary repair that i could do with minimal tools and it would buy me a couple of years till i fully replaced. Then id definitely do this.
Very good and clear video. I've never seen this product before. Makes sense. Makes you wonder why they dont just fit them to every post when first building the fence? Thanks for sharing. Martin
I'm not sure why everyone is being so negative. It's just a quick fix to buy you a few more years. I can attest that concrete can be a real sod to dig out with only simple household tools.
Is this bloke for real? I could have replaced the complete post, set it in new concrete, cooked a bacon roll and skinned up in that time and it would still be upright two days later 🤣👍👌
This is probably what I've been looking for in mending my broken fencepanel post base without the hassle of digging out the old postcrete and post. Cheers buddy will be stocking up for the future.😎
Thankyou mate. These are good if you want a no hassle, cheap way of getting a few more years out of your old fence. Replacing fencing isnt cheap these days. Good luck with it.
EXCELLENT---I'VE BEEN PONDERING THIS PROBLEM FOR YEARS; WHETHER REPLACEMENT WAS WORTH THE COST, OR THE TIME AND TROUBLE, AS MINE IS CLOSE TO A LOW BOUNDERY WALL. BUT NOW, I CAN SEE THAT A SIDE SUPPORT WOULD DO THE JOB TOO.
Thanks for offering help unfortunately there are people out there who always know best and can't handle change! Thanks for taking the time to try to help others keep going and keep the faith.
Surely the concrete will get in the way often? Much easier to buy a new post, lever out the old concrete with a pick axe or metal rod, a bag of quick setting Postcrete in the new hold with the new post or better a metal post spike. Better job.
Post always rot in that section just where it goes into the soil level or floor level. On another youtube video A guy explains why and how to hold that rot off for more years. The microorganisms love the damp soft timber and fungus grows in it then weakening the structure of the wood. If you protect 3-4" above and below this area where it meets the ground the post lasts a whole lot longer. I have used bituminous compound mixed with old engine oil and diesel for years and posts I've put in over 10-15 yrs ago still standing strong. 👍
An excellent video. I shall look for some post buddies after storm Eunice has ravaged my fence. Thank you for sharing this information and allowing us to know about a cheap DIY repair
@@featherbrain7147 I used post buddy on two six foot posts in the centre portion of a long run of fencing eight years ago. The entire centre fence was in danger of coming down. It took under 45 minutes and cost less than £30. The whole 50 +feet of fencing is still standing to this day on a hilly site on Tyneside. We’ve moved house (3 miles) and last nights winds have caused the same issue with the fence here. Two posts have issues. Rather than calling someone out who will no doubt tell me the whole fence needs replacing I’m going to do it myself for £65 - providing support to all four posts in the run.
Easy to get to the side of the fence post when there is a panel to remove but not so easy if the fence has arris rails fitted into the post. Keep off the neighbour's garden too
Great video and advice. I did this with metre long extra thick ones from Screwfix. I grinded the ends to cut through the earth better, it did the job perfect and saved me a big job as the fence is in perfect condition it's just the wooden post bottoms have rotted.👍
Looks good but what happens when you can't get a fixing on the bottom of the plate when you hit the rotten section of post. Don't go so far down with the the plate ?
@@stefanallan4274 tbf i had no idea about this up till a few months ago. Seemed to do the trick though. Just thought it was a handy cheap option to get a few more years out of your post.
@@stefanallan4274 this is no substitute for a concrete spur mate. This is more of a diy'er fix. This'll give you 2 years at best. A concrete spur 15 years or more.
What a fantastic trick, hate doing fences lol. My brother in law is coming round to help me change them to 6 foot panels when they allow people to sleep over this month. But I'll remember this trick.
The caveat with these is that the post will continue to rot below ground making the Post Buddy unstable, and eventually you'll need to replace the post, or make a permanent repair with a concrete spur.
L shaped chain link metal posts can be driven in by just easing the panel away from the post. No need to remove the panel I have done it a hundred times with great success.
We had a post break after a recent storm, when I came to remove the panels the previous owner had hammered in 76 nails holding two panels in! I mean FFS 76, Christ on a bike, the weight of the nails probably pulled it down. Some people shouldn't be allowed near DIY.
I wouldn't waste my time with strips of thin steel. The best way is a 6' long concrete post 3' in the ground and 3' above flush to the original post. 2 off 1/2" × 7" bolts, nuts and washer spaced abot 9-12" apart. Through centre of wooden post and concrete post. Concrete in concrete post plus jam some hardcore in at the bottom of the hole you have dug. Make sure its plumb. The fence panel doesn't have to be removed, but meta clips top and bottom are best rather that screws through rails. I have this repair on posts going back 30 years when one panel blew out and the post broke. Fix the cause , not the effect. All my wooden posts have been fitted with concrete posts which Imdesigned and made myself wirh a former and some 1"1" angle and 1/2" steel pipe which the bolts go through. Even the bought spurs are too short as the centre of pressure of the wind acts at 2/3 from the base. Always grease the bolts in case they need to come out at any time. Do the job right first time so you only do it once. But tell that to a fence installer and he hasn't a clue, but lots of excuses not to.
For £20.06 you can buy a new fence post , 2 bags of ballast and 1 cement and just re-do the whole thing , no way that took 20mins more like a hour all in still a great solution though
You can also buy heavy duty galvanised Flat bar with holes it’s about 1 meter long, it will do the same job as the post puddy, and they are cheaper, you can get it from toolstation just put half of the bar in the ground and the other half get screws into the post.
This is why you shouldn't ever use wooden fence posts, waste of time and money........I put concrete posts in over 20 years ago and haven't moved at all. Then got sick and tired of broken fence panels so a couple of years ago, bought loads of scaffold boards, cut to size, treated them and slotted them in....solid as a rock and the last couple of days i have taken them out one by one to retreat them, so much easier.....
An ok way A more long lasting fix is to simply disconnect both panels from the ‘dead ‘ post . Remove the dead post , screw in a 6 inch screw to the remains of the old post . Withdraw by means of a lever and place a new treated post in the old hole 30 mins . Done .
Yeah i agree that is a good alternative but 9 times out of 10 its going to be a ball ache getting a new post back into the existing hole. Plus who knows if itll still be level. Also most of the time if ist rotted at the bast you wont get a secure fixing in it to leaver it out.
Do you think this would work for H braces on barbed-wire fences without concrete around the posts? I had a horse get tangled up in a gate and she broke 1 of the posts on my H brace. Not looking forward to digging the old post out. That post lasted 18 years without concrete around the base.
I can see a lot of dry lunches out in there garden wasting they're lives doing this because they begrudge paying a tradesmen half a days work buying 2 posts n 5 bags of post fix or better still replace the fence and stop kicking the can down the road.
15 mins ha I could of put a new post in in that time, you have just wedge it tight won't last long that post is a giant pry bar and those bars are holding nothing and able to slide back out , I'm sure the leverage of the post exceeds the power of your lump hammer
LINKS to all items featured in the video - (which will help you get the right tools for the job)
UK Links-
Post Buddy Pack of 2 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/38IfmTW
Post Buddy Pack of 4 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3rRV1Dc
Post Buddy Pack of 6 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2NleQnz
Post Buddy Pack of 8 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2NlRD4H
Makita DTD152 DTD152Z Impact Driver with Battery and Charger - amzn.to/3qPDc6r
STANLEY FATMAX Pro Box Beam Level, 600mm - amzn.to/3lleKIV
Rolson 10675 Stoning Hammer, 1 kg - amzn.to/3lki9b8
Box of 200 High Performance Multi Use Wood Screws 50mm - amzn.to/3s2QDSd
USA Links -
Post Buddy Pack of 2 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3gQrRSe
Post Buddy Pack of 4 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2PDKluf
Post Buddy Pack of 6 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/3nC6fKH
Post Buddy Pack of 8 Timber Fence Post Repair Stakes - amzn.to/2S8PriQ
Makita XDT131 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Impact Driver - amzn.to/3xEWuQP
CRAFTSMAN Torpedo Level, 9-Inch - amzn.to/3t2IjBj
Rolson 10675 Stoning Hammer, 1 kg - amzn.to/3eGB7WE
Disclaimer - All links are an affiliate link and I may receive a very small commission if the item is purchased through the link, but it does not cost you anything.
Brilliant! Coming to you from Virginia, USA! I have 15,000 linear ft of 3 board oak fencinf=g for horses and always need ideas!
Well I bought some and fitted them to two post on my leaning fence, time will tell but it looks good. However, found the buddies quite difficult to get hammered in, myself and son were taking shifts. Either you are super strong or we had super reinforced concrete ... time for a hot bath to ease the shoulder. Really pleased to see the video, was unaware of the product, and was contemplating having to replace a 30m fence ... got mine next day via Amazon
Hey, Glad to see you took the plunge and ordered them. The harder they are to get in the better support they are going to give, so its worth all the hard work. Hope they give you a few more years on your fence.
Still standing after the winter storms? Mine aren't!
I've got 2 rotten fence posts the latest yesterday great video now got to find the metal bars
There is a link in the description 👍
Post Buddy. Brilliant! Just what I needed.
Excellent.Every day is a school day.
A very good temporary DIY repair.
I just received them. I will post my experience and the outcome by the weekend
Well done for pointing out that the only bit of a post that rots is the bit that is in contact with both soil and air . Very few people seem to understand this
YEP, NOT MANY PEOPLE KNEW THIS, LIKE ME.
I've lost two treated posts since installing in 2018, one in Eunice, both rotten at ground level, and both good at least above ground. I think the preservatives used have gotten safer but less effective, to the point of making wood a poor choice for wet British gardens. Wish I'd seen this video before replacing the latest post to go.
Did you paint the posts where they go in the ground?
Had posts last just a few years, older ones lasted longer for some reason, some 20+years. Although could be the wood isn't as good.
1960's fence treated with used engine oil and still standing strong today!
Nice temporary fix,can also add a 45 degree brace too .... 🙂👍🏻
Doesnt hurt to
I had a length of fencing blow down in a recent gale. Contractors quoted me £1900. The repair by another tradesman was £320, by replacing 15 year old posts and keeping the perfectly sound panels.
Thank you for explaining it 😊 so well and showing us how to go about it.
You’re welcome 😊
Ok for a quick repair, but if you have gone to that extent , wouldn’t it be much more work to replace the post. Just saying👍
In most cases yeah, id say just put in a post but for the average home owner with no experience or tools and wants a cheap and easy repair then this is perfect 👌
Breaking out the old concrete takes hours though and is back breaking work. I think all posts should be concrete then this will never be an issue.
@@Andy-2022 It isn't hard to do, most people use a small bag of postconcrete, easy to dig around, it would be cheaper and a better job to just replace the post.
@@hetrodoxly1203 Better yes, cheaper? How?
@@FatterTony He said it would cost £20 to do the repair, i can get a fence post for £8 and a bag of postconcrete for less than £5.
You have lifted the gloom of this seventy year old arthritc having discovered a broken fence post. Twenty odd minutes I can manage. Cheers mate.
superb....delighted i seen this...i have to do this to my fence.....fair play
Hey fella - many thanks for this - fantastic video and just what I needed!
Youre welcome my friend 👍
Thanks fantastic idea I never thought of definitely going to do this to my posts!
Thanks man. Let me know how it goes 👍
Never even knew about those mate. Thanks will keep this in mind.👍
Its handy if you have a snapped post and just want to get a couple more years out of the fence, before you shell out for a new one.
@@JamesMontana all about saving the cash mate.lol👌
@@craigray3211 exactly 💯
Stodoys is full of awesome tips. Very helpful to me.
Glad you think so!
@@JamesMontana Awesome you like it too ️👍
Main lesson cement well and above ground when installing.
This 👆 👏👍
Ideal for a quick fix, just before you sell the house :)
Brilliant idea one I’ll definitely remember
I thought it was pretty good too. Thanks
Great and useful video, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this 👍
Great option definitely
Absolutely brilliant thank you so much
You are absolutely welcome my friend. Glad to be of help to you. Have a nice day 🙂
If you remove both panels on either side, wouldn't it be best to just replace the bad post?
If you have the ways and the means to do that then, yes ! Its always better to concrete in a new post but this is a repair video for thoes who cant do or afford a replacement post at the moment.
@@JamesMontana a post and concrete are about £25 and you possibly save that money in time spent not hammering the steel bars in, plus the cost of them too. Seems a bit "Heath Robinson" seeing as you've dug out half the soil already.
@@davidreynolds3082 Few things to mention. Soil took all of 10 seconds to dig out. It was a bad example of a concreted in post. Ordinarily there would and should be concrete all the way to the top. The average diy'er isnt going to have the means to break out the concrete without buying or hiring a breaker, let alone the motivation to physically do it. This is for thoes people who want... as i said a quick, cheap repair, that they can do with minimal tools, that will prevent pulling down the rest of the fence, untill they can afford to pay someone to replace the fence for them. Thanks. James
@@davidreynolds3082
My point, too.
The post wasn't broken, only displaced and could have been easily wedged back into position using just stones.
Cost: elbow grease and a bit of time.
@@billyandrew the post was clearly rotten and had snapped off at the bottom
I’ve done something similar about 3-4 years ago using 75cm lengths of 40mm scrap angle iron, I just cut the bottoms to form a spike, then drove them in between the post stump and concrete, once in position drilled fixing holes and secured with 75mm decking screws..... job done.
The posts haven’t budged since installation.
Did you drive the post buddies through the cement? If so why didn’t the concrete split?
I hope you are well
Very helpful. My tip was drilling out the rotten wood in the concrete using a flat one inch drill on hammer, and sucking out the churned up wood with an aqua vax. The best bit was how easily the new post slid into the cleared hole in the concrete. It did no favours to the flat drill piece though!
Really helpful thanks
Grind a bevel af the foot of the steel to ease the passage.
Another nicely done video!
Thankyou so much! ❤ really nice to get a comment like this when you work so hard on something.
Great helpful video thank you
This is what my Dad would've done back in the day, he'd use a bed frame part ( one of those old metal beds) thanks for sharing
Youre welcome. Sometimes the old ways are the best ways 👍 Definitely works as a cheap temporary repair.
@@JamesMontana temporary repair that lasted another 20 years...lol
@@gillwil haha well he definitely got the most out of his fence then.
Omg.i done it all my life mate.just put in a new post it would b a lot easy.your a joke.😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for sharing James, I never knew those things existed - could be useful in certain situations 👍. Happy new year !
They are pretty handy if you need to do a quick repair. Happy new year to you mate. Hope you had a good one.
Just use concrete post in 1st place
A simple tip that i have used ever since i did fencing as a job in the late 60s.
When you put in new wooden posts bitumastic paint the end of the post that goes into the ground but make sure 2 inches of the paint remains above the soil.
This will make your posts last 4 to 5 times longer.
Its the wet dry cycle that makes posts rot at ground level
That is an excellent tip 👌
Also make sure the concrete is slightly sloping above ground level so the water drains away from the post when it rains.
Nice one Lee
Is normal paint ok?
@@chatteyj no needs to be more substantial than normal paint
Thanks so much! Much better than having to pour concrete in November!
We've done to this to 3 posts out of 20. We got quoted over £2000 to replace all the panels and posts. Not a permanent fix, but like the man says, buys you a couple of years.
That's exactly why i made this video. Glad its saved you some money. Even just for the time being.
Fantastic video. I have this problem right now. I'm going to get the missus on it right away. 😂
Haha its so easy, even you could do it 🤣
😅😂🤣
Good lad ,shares the secret with customers , not all tradesman will do this , they are all for money , this man is very honest , God bless him .
To honest for my own good haha but i thankyou for your comment.
Of course there all for money. Its there job.
@@shaunmorton5459 agreed
This is a temp repair. NO tradesman would put their name to this method (unless they're cowboys).If you can break out the old concrete then spend an extra few quid and get a new post and a couple of bags of postcrete. it's better than botching an old post that will continue to rot further and then need replacing anyway. A new post that's pressure treated isn't expensive and will come with a 10-15 year guarantee.
Another Pommy DIY guy has a (free) YT channel. He installed a 750mm concrete post next to the timber one, and removed half the concrete. I have installed replacement posts and conclude that water and damp soil sitting on top of the concrete is rotting the post. Maybe beveling the top of the wet concrete will help water run off, and extending the concrete an inch above ground will work. Some people wrap a bit of plastic around the post like a sock. If you pour concrete to or beneath the post base this may also prevent drainage as water collects there.
Just make sure when you put in a post in the first place concrete above the dirt then it won’t rot in the ground !
Only the mud above the ground to concrete that rots the post ..
Couldn't agree more with this 👏👍
@@JamesMontana Ive had 4”x4” posts in ten years now and concrete is piled to post - still solid as a rock
Just use concrete posts to begin with, 20+ years and still going strong.
The cheaper option is to use a match...hate panels. If you do have to use panels then at least use the concrete slotted posts and gravel boards. My recommendation is to use sturdy tanalised posts and close board's it will last you year's.
I would recommend burning down your fence but replacing with concrete and closeboard panels is a good idea for longevity.
Sorry I cannot see exactly! are you hammering in the post buddy in between the post and the concrete, or outside of the concrete?
Excellent
Having had a fencing and patio business I don't like this at all sorry.There only one way to do this and that's replace the post. A kango hammer to break the concrete out or just lump hammer a chisel. Those straps are not man enough and the post is still rotten. Bodge job at best.
Ill be honest, i dont like it either but if i wanted a cheap, quick, temporary repair that i could do with minimal tools and it would buy me a couple of years till i fully replaced. Then id definitely do this.
Just put in a concrete spur it’s stronger and will last longer ,and is quicker .
Its not cheaper or quicker but it is stronger. Not so easy if you dont have a breaker though.
very informative
I try my best 👍
BRILLIANT!!
Thanks man 👍
I have used dexion 30 years ago . It's still there.
How thick and long was your steel?
Very good and clear video. I've never seen this product before. Makes sense. Makes you wonder why they dont just fit them to every post when first building the fence?
Thanks for sharing. Martin
Thankyou. What would be better is to fit post sleeves before installing the fence. That way the posts wont rot as quickly. Thanks for watching.
I'm not sure why everyone is being so negative. It's just a quick fix to buy you a few more years. I can attest that concrete can be a real sod to dig out with only simple household tools.
Thankyou ! Someone who finally sees what the video was made for.
Nice video, with I had seen it 7 or 8 post before today.
Haha maybe for the next one
@@JamesMontana yeah definately... Saves trying to dig the post out of the hole
@@chrisduncan7257 yeah its much easier. But remember this repair will only give you a couple of years at best.
Is this bloke for real? I could have replaced the complete post, set it in new concrete, cooked a bacon roll and skinned up in that time and it would still be upright two days later 🤣👍👌
I think you need to stop smoking the wacky backy mate if you think that 🤣
This is probably what I've been looking for in mending my broken fencepanel post base without the hassle of digging out the old postcrete and post. Cheers buddy will be stocking up for the future.😎
Thankyou mate. These are good if you want a no hassle, cheap way of getting a few more years out of your old fence. Replacing fencing isnt cheap these days. Good luck with it.
EXCELLENT---I'VE BEEN PONDERING THIS PROBLEM FOR YEARS; WHETHER REPLACEMENT WAS WORTH THE COST, OR THE TIME AND TROUBLE, AS MINE IS CLOSE TO A LOW BOUNDERY WALL. BUT NOW, I CAN SEE THAT A SIDE SUPPORT WOULD DO THE JOB TOO.
If you burn the base of the posts first it will create a charcoal barrier and charcoal won’t rot. That post was badly installed.
I used these to repair my fence, they do not last the winter storms.
Thanks for offering help unfortunately there are people out there who always know best and can't handle change! Thanks for taking the time to try to help others keep going and keep the faith.
Haha tell me about it. Everyone is an expert haha but thanks for your message. Nice to get some positive feedback for a change 😀
Surely the concrete will get in the way often? Much easier to buy a new post, lever out the old concrete with a pick axe or metal rod, a bag of quick setting Postcrete in the new hold with the new post or better a metal post spike. Better job.
Lucky the panel was screwed in originally eh.🤣😂
You give example simple very useful dos don't DYO things
Thankyou 😁
Concrete spur just as quick been ding them for years..... Just as quick and it's not a lash up job...
Stay lucky
Its not quite as quick but definitely a better fix. But its hard to do if you dont have a concrete breaker.
Post always rot in that section just where it goes into the soil level or floor level. On another youtube video A guy explains why and how to hold that rot off for more years. The microorganisms love the damp soft timber and fungus grows in it then weakening the structure of the wood. If you protect 3-4" above and below this area where it meets the ground the post lasts a whole lot longer. I have used bituminous compound mixed with old engine oil and diesel for years and posts I've put in over 10-15 yrs ago still standing strong. 👍
Good tip. Do this all the time
Ask the environment agency for their opinion on using this method. 😐
What can you do with wobbly concrete posts
Break out and re set in concrete
Are you saying the post buddy is knocked down between the concrete and the post. But isn't the concrete set fast to the side of the post?
Yes, exactly that. Sometimes its easier than other times but you can get it in ther no problem.
Thanks I'll try that.
@@malcolmtaylor518 you're welcome
An excellent video. I shall look for some post buddies after storm Eunice has ravaged my fence. Thank you for sharing this information and allowing us to know about a cheap DIY repair
Youre welcome. Be aware though this will give you a year or 2 at best before you will need a replacement
1. it was nailed. Der, concrete?
Mine blew fully over shame I didn’t know before the storms came
15 quid ? I’ll book you in then .
I’m a landscape gardener and I repair fences all the time. This is a great little hack which will save time and money. Great vid!
Thanks man 👍
I don't believe that this is a long-term solution, for the reasons I have posted.
@@featherbrain7147 I used post buddy on two six foot posts in the centre portion of a long run of fencing eight years ago. The entire centre fence was in danger of coming down. It took under 45 minutes and cost less than £30. The whole 50 +feet of fencing is still standing to this day on a hilly site on Tyneside. We’ve moved house (3 miles) and last nights winds have caused the same issue with the fence here. Two posts have issues. Rather than calling someone out who will no doubt tell me the whole fence needs replacing I’m going to do it myself for £65 - providing support to all four posts in the run.
Whole point of post rotting was cause under the damn soil - bodgy work
Not really
I am thinking that perhaps this could be done with regular galvanised wall straps :)
That is where they got the idea and just added some markings. I use the 750mm heavy duty straps from my builders merchants at half the price.
I did notice they were a bit pricey.
Easy to get to the side of the fence post when there is a panel to remove but not so easy if the fence has arris
rails fitted into the post. Keep off the neighbour's garden too
Did you ask permission to work on your neighbours side first 😃
Yes the client made the neighbours aware i was coming, which is just common courtesy 👍
This is the cowboy way.do it right take it all out an start again....lazy as f,,,,
Its advising people a way they can do it themselves. With minimal tools. Nothing lazy about it.
Great video and advice. I did this with metre long extra thick ones from Screwfix. I grinded the ends to cut through the earth better, it did the job perfect and saved me a big job as the fence is in perfect condition it's just the wooden post bottoms have rotted.👍
Thanks 👍 works a treat doesn't it. Great idea to ramp it up a bit with extra thick ones 👌
Cracking repair idea, will use it on my fence as one of the posts has rotted exactly as the one shown in video. Cheers
Hope it helped
Looks good but what happens when you can't get a fixing on the bottom of the plate when you hit the rotten section of post. Don't go so far down with the the plate ?
It has many holes for screws but if the post is rotten too far up its too far gone.
@@JamesMontana yeh fair comment lol I should have thought of that done lots of fencing over the years as well. Duh hello stupid lol
@@stefanallan4274 tbf i had no idea about this up till a few months ago. Seemed to do the trick though. Just thought it was a handy cheap option to get a few more years out of your post.
@@JamesMontana I'll definitely be using them where I work looks neater than timber or concrete stays
@@stefanallan4274 this is no substitute for a concrete spur mate. This is more of a diy'er fix. This'll give you 2 years at best. A concrete spur 15 years or more.
What a fantastic trick, hate doing fences lol. My brother in law is coming round to help me change them to 6 foot panels when they allow people to sleep over this month. But I'll remember this trick.
Yeah its pretty handy when you have a broken post and cant be arsed to dig out all the concrete. Good.luck fitting your panels.
I've used these on a very exposed fence and they held up to the last 2 storms.
The caveat with these is that the post will continue to rot below ground making the Post Buddy unstable, and eventually you'll need to replace the post, or make a permanent repair with a concrete spur.
You can't beat a concrete spur
L shaped chain link metal posts can be driven in by just easing the panel away from the post.
No need to remove the panel
I have done it a hundred times with great success.
Great tip 👍
Hi where can I get the post buddies from thanks
In the description
We had a post break after a recent storm, when I came to remove the panels the previous owner had hammered in 76 nails holding two panels in! I mean FFS 76, Christ on a bike, the weight of the nails probably pulled it down.
Some people shouldn't be allowed near DIY.
I wouldn't waste my time with strips of thin steel. The best way is a 6' long concrete post 3' in the ground and 3' above flush to the original post. 2 off 1/2" × 7" bolts, nuts and washer spaced abot 9-12" apart. Through centre of wooden post and concrete post. Concrete in concrete post plus jam some hardcore in at the bottom of the hole you have dug. Make sure its plumb. The fence panel doesn't have to be removed, but meta clips top and bottom are best rather that screws through rails.
I have this repair on posts going back 30 years when one panel blew out and the post broke. Fix the cause , not the effect. All my wooden posts have been fitted with concrete posts which Imdesigned and made myself wirh a former and some 1"1" angle and 1/2" steel pipe which the bolts go through. Even the bought spurs are too short as the centre of pressure of the wind acts at 2/3 from the base. Always grease the bolts in case they need to come out at any time.
Do the job right first time so you only do it once. But tell that to a fence installer and he hasn't a clue, but lots of excuses not to.
What if they're not set in concrete?
This wont work then, but your fence wont last long anyway .
For £20.06 you can buy a new fence post , 2 bags of ballast and 1 cement and just re-do the whole thing , no way that took 20mins more like a hour all in still a great solution though
You can also buy heavy duty galvanised Flat bar with holes it’s about 1 meter long, it will do the same job as the post puddy, and they are cheaper, you can get it from toolstation just put half of the bar in the ground and the other half get screws into the post.
Do you cement them
Into the ground? How does this work with the old concrete already in ?
This is why you shouldn't ever use wooden fence posts, waste of time and money........I put concrete posts in over 20 years ago and haven't moved at all. Then got sick and tired of broken fence panels so a couple of years ago, bought loads of scaffold boards, cut to size, treated them and slotted them in....solid as a rock and the last couple of days i have taken them out one by one to retreat them, so much easier.....
An ok way
A more long lasting fix is to simply disconnect both panels from the ‘dead ‘ post . Remove the dead post , screw in a 6 inch screw to the remains of the old post . Withdraw by means of a lever and place a new treated post in the old hole
30 mins . Done .
Yeah i agree that is a good alternative but 9 times out of 10 its going to be a ball ache getting a new post back into the existing hole. Plus who knows if itll still be level. Also most of the time if ist rotted at the bast you wont get a secure fixing in it to leaver it out.
Do you think this would work for H braces on barbed-wire fences without concrete around the posts?
I had a horse get tangled up in a gate and she broke 1 of the posts on my H brace. Not looking forward to digging the old post out. That post lasted 18 years without concrete around the base.
Concrete spur ,bag of postcrete ,3coach screws and washers .that's it.
Exactly the way I've always done it, wouldn't do it any other way!!!🖖😁
Just noticed the fence posts to the left and right of the post he's repairing have already been repaired with concrete spurs 0:37 & 5:12
absolute waste of time and effort.wont stop strong winds from eventually buckling the steal rods.if your going to do it do the job properly
I can see a lot of dry lunches out in there garden wasting they're lives doing this because they begrudge paying a tradesmen half a days work buying 2 posts n 5 bags of post fix or better still replace the fence and stop kicking the can down the road.
15 mins ha I could of put a new post in in that time, you have just wedge it tight won't last long that post is a giant pry bar and those bars are holding nothing and able to slide back out , I'm sure the leverage of the post exceeds the power of your lump hammer