I like this quick fix. I live in the states and I have this problem with a post on my fence, and I noticed someone commented to just replace the post. In my case, that would be laborious because I used pickets instead of panels, 2x4's and the 4x4's of course and that would be a lot of work, and I actually did most of my fence when my husband broke his leg. He is just offering a quick fix. TFS
Why do people in the states always mention they live in the states? 😂 And did your husband get his leg fixed with professional treatment or was that also too laborious?
I've got a broken fence post that I've had propped up while I figure out how to fix it. Your video has shown me how simple it is to remedy. Cheers. I've dug the concrete bases of fence posts out in the past with a club hammer and big chisel and it's been a absolute nightmare so the last time, I invested in a rotary hammer drill to break the concrete up and boy, what a difference that made. You definitely need one of these if you're hoping to repair a broken post in a couple of hours.
Best video I've seen using this technique...Yes you could just replace whole post, but if panel fixtures are on the neighbours side, you need access to the neighbours garden...and we don't all get on with our neighbours...!
That's the situation I'm in now. Fence is leaning in multiple consecutive sections, but the boards connect on the other side of the fence and the guy living next door has been ignoring us trying to make plans to replace about 54 feet (16.5 meters) of fence.
@@darkchia00 If you do get to replace whole fence, best to use concrete posts and gravel boards, I have concrete posts with the groove so when panel rots you can slide/drop another panel in to the posts, but you will need help as the concrete posts are very heavy..! Wood posts waste of time, keep rotting...Concrete and you will probably never have to replace a post...
I've done similar repairs using lengths of L-shaped steel extrusion, but those concrete spurs are a neat manufactured solution! I think I'd consider adding washers to the coach bolts, though.
@@JohnJones-qy5ko Yeah - but if you take a fence post out, it will damage the fence panels even more. So you might have much greater cost. Then it's not really a repair, but a replacement :)
As a fencing contractor myself, nothing wrong with this other than, no washers on the coach screws😬 over time, wind will pull the bolts through the concrete spur, resulting in a loose timber post. Good informative video nevertheless 😎
I put a half length hardwood post in the ground up against the failing post. I quickly pair the two posts together with a 2 inch wide band of galvanized sheet metal. One screw through the overlapping sheet metal holds the two posts securely together. I then put a lower band of sheet metal as well. It takes about 20 minutes to do and should last another 50 years or so! Another good thing is that I am using old posts, sheet metal and screws which I have saved or found by the roadside!
@@BackyardTrekking Thought the same thing as soon as he broke out the rotary hammer. Because all homeowners have those.. Really don't understand this level of repair. You have it dug out like that, just replace the post, would have been much quicker and easier and had a better end result.
best diy channel on youtube. before i found you, i was to DIY what julian clary is to the SAS. but now with your easy step by step guides my missus thinks im a genius.
A good video for advice and I have used these in the past for a quick repair. But quickly and easily...don't think so. I'm not in the trade and getting on in years and it took me several hours.
Excellent video in terms of both presentation and content. I work as a handyman and have steered clear of post repairs for the most part but your technique might be something I'd consider doing now. I live near the sea where there are lots of strong winds and so lots of broken fence posts!
Excellent solution! Got a couple posts in need of resuscitation and has never seen this before. It’s a bit like sistering cracked ribs on a wooden boat.
Brother you've just saved me a lot of grief and wasted money - money that I don't have to spare! I have about 300' of fence that has gone just like the one in this video, and have been planning to replace it all this spring when the better weather comes. I've never seen concrete spurs like what you used here, but will look for them. If worse comes to worst, I will cut some 4" x 4" post sections and make my own. I'm embarrassed to say that I should have thought of this simple solution on my own, but I'm grateful you went to the trouble to show us how you did it. Subbed!
It’s a nice fix for sure. However, if you don’t find the same materials…you could try buying a galvanized piece of fence pipe and sink it into the ground a few feet …. how deep depends on the load to be carried and your local frost line if applicable. You can use several fastening techniques as well as hiding the pipe with simple “boxing techniques”. ** The pipe can be sunk into the ground using a sledge hammer or set in place in a cement base according to the planned duration of the fix and/or budget concerns. In fact most folks should always use galvanized piping for posts and then dress them up with wood boxing. No rot … no worries. 😉
@@presspound7358 The galvanized pipe is a great suggestion; probably even stronger than concrete spurs, as it won't crack pr bend - at least not a thick walled pipe won't. I'll look into it. As long as it can be secured strongly enough, it should innthwory last decades. Thanks for your idea!
Here in Kiwi-land, they used to make concrete fence posts (very like the repair spur, but full length) and they last decades, even in swampy ground. Good video mate.
Fantastic video. I have 5 posts that have rotted and snapped and are currently propped up by temporary supports. Every time I look out into my garden, I just end up walking away from the window 🤣 What I also found was that Wickes' prices for spurs were about a tenner more expensive than from my local merchants, but I guess if you're in a hurry, then needs must...
Some sound advice there, thanks. I recently had a few broken posts and repaired them with Post Buddy, have you heard of them? No digging out of concrete required, on two sides of the post simply remove the soil down to the top of the concrete, bang in the Post Buddy metal stakes between the concrete and the post stump (two per post is usually enough, one front or back and one at the side), pop in a few screws, put back in the removed soil and that's it. Arguably they may not be as effective as your method but they are good enough and are certainly a lot easier. I've used these on severely rotted posts too.
I had this happen two years ago. Just as easy to prop up the two panels with spare wood, dig out the rotten bottom of the post and slot in a new one. Works a treat and not difficult to do.
Good job. That said, if you have to jackhammer out some of the concrete you may as will dig it all out and set a new post. Pro tip: Get a spur with an offset so it's top part is deeper than the bottom. This can actually "sit" on top of the old concrete plug, adding stability. If you can get 60 cm below ground in a tight hole, more concrete shouldn't be needed. Cheers!
This is one of the reason why when building a fence with concrete, the concrete is higher than the ground and is domed so that the water runs down and away from the post. It also makes it easier to weed wack the grass away from the post with out hitting the wood post. With the bottom post out, why not just replace the whole post at this time and skip the concrete patch. Just my thoughts. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
This technique is amazing! It actually doesn't look that bad. I have never seen a concrete spur like this in any building supply that I have been to. I would have to manufacture the spurs myself, in order to accomplish this repair method. I suppose there is are steel rebars inside the spur? Possibly 4 pieces going vertical and attached by wiring small pieces together? I guess a person could construct a form with sleeves for the holes to illuminate drilling? I wouldn't enjoy storing them.
I really enjoy watching your DIY instructional videos. I want to repair my backyard rotten wood fence posts with concrete spurs. However, I couldn't find any home improvement centers in California that offer it.
Hello from Canada...great video!!! A tough winter here and my fence did not stand up well! Just chatted with my neighbour and he suggested YT, glad I found you...Cheers!!
Concreting is part of the problem, use packed stones it allows the wood to breathe and slow down decay. Also copper nails driven in the wood will help reduce the decay with their oxides
Sorry. It looks like hell. You were almost there. Why not just pull the concrete out, and set a new post, instead of adding some ugly support? That horozontal piece should have been completely replaced with a single piece of pressure treated wood.
love your videos! I just wanted a media wall, but was planning to replace my gate and fix my fence, and you have ticked all the boxes to amazing stuff thanks
Nice! Those repair spurs are great! I've ever seen that type of prpoduct here in the States. Texas is the land of wood fences in developments. We use cedar wood for the fence slats and pressure treated wood for 4x4 posts and bracing 2x4s. Fences last a long time. It' usually not moisture but just lousy installs that gets our posts. I got one in my backyard now that I could use one of those concrete spurs!
Simple video on how to fix a rotten fence post 👍 I only use post concrete myself and think it’s a great product simple and very easy to use but I always wear a mask as it can become quite dusty product when pouring into the water.
hello thank you for the instructions a very nice explanatory way to do this thank again Also I would assume before installation You can always burn the bottom of the fence post or the post that was being repaired and put some burnt diesel fuel oil on the post after it before putting it into the concrete and I'm not sure about concrete I think rocks would work I'm not This is how they used to do it with log cabins I suppose you could follow this with with but you always I believe you are supposed to leave a section open so the wood can breathe however I don't know that but the post however you do have to do this for interior doors I'm sure you're aware as it is for I believe the bottom two but once it is burnt and has used diesel fuel oil on it that should do the trick as well. However thank you for the informative information It's an old school way that works on 4 x 4 I know that as I said people used to use the log cabin This is coming from a family that are all contractors. Old school usually works really good. Did it again thank you so much this is very informative I have a split level fence that has rotted at the base so I can try this thank you so much again and hoping you and yours have a great God blessed day in Jesus Christ name 🙏🏽
This is brilliant! Sadly, the concrete repair spurs are not to be found here in the USA. All we have at Home Depot are 24 inch metal brackets that you pound in and bolt on. (Not deep enough and difficult to keep plumb.) Separating the rot from the solid wood is, I think, a critical step. I guess we could try to make our own.
Yep, I generalise to suit some of the viewers who don’t know the term plumb. This was requested on other videos as some who are less carpentry oriented didn’t understand what I was referring to.
We just shoved in some old bricks and compacted the soil around the post, didnt have a concrete support thingy, instead of pouring concrete, easy simple fix and sturdier than expected
Having done a few of these now, if you don’t have a lovely power tool with chisel, get yourself a chisel digging bar. Makes getting that old concrete out a bit easier.
This is an excellent explanation and runthrough, thanks a load. Do you have recommendations of how to get an old 4x4 post out of an existing cement base without starting over and trying to dig out the old one? I bought a house and it looks like someone just sawed through the posts on the patio, leaving smooth tops in cement anchors - I'd like to replace them and build a nice patio cover, without having to dig out a bunch of cement.
Instead of dealing with the existing concrete and broken post you can level the fence as shown but add two 4x4 pt posts to both sides of the damaged post in the middle of each panel for symmetry. It doesn't have to be a concrete post. Use pressure treated and bolt to the horizontal members similar to the concrete one shown. When stained or painted wont even notice and is a lot easier than chipping concrete.
Thanks mate, I needed this info. I have 5 rotten posts which have now fully severed after the recent storms. There is one post in the middle of the other 4 which is the only surviving one, practically holding the entire fence line up. Only thing is, the other 4 were previously cemented in to a deep concrete pour (not by me), which was part of the original garden path/steps down the side of the house. Hard to explain, but basically I'm going to have to somehow dig through a large/deep amount of, awkwardly placed, poured concrete, to fix the posts. I considered bolting those metal post feet you can buy, into the concrete and attaching a support post within that, to the existing one. Like what you have done, but instead of digging, bolting to the existing floor or concrete around it. It will look messy, but plant pots are great disguises XD. ALSO: I have sold my house now, it's no longer mine. This was like this when they came to see it and bought it. Reckon I should do them a favour, or leave it to them to sort? It's a contentious issue..
It sounds like it’s one of them jobs you’ll just have to ‘find a way’ that suits the job at hand and you’ve thought outside the box with it. If your happy with the money you’ve made and can afford to do it then I would probably do it for them.
@@TheDIYGuy1 thanks for your advice mate. Yeh looks like I'm going to have to grab the SDS chisel bit out. Maybe even hire a pneumatic one and get digging! I'm going to wait until mid to end of Feb, see how it holds up and decide whether it's worth it or not. I feel like doing them a favour, but he is also a builder himself, ironically, he may wish I hadn't if he has other plans with the property in that area style wise..
I’ve repaired posts in the past by getting some heavy duty galvanised bars from tool station, use a grinder to put a sharp edge on one end and hammer down beside the broken post a foot into the concrete below between the old post and concrete then nail to the post above the ground. Ideally use at least two per post.
Lol the British video's always seem to help me more than the others. Not saying the American made videos are bad, but this works better for me! Thank you!!! Cheers!
My house is nearly 70yrs old and still got the original fence up with concrete posts behind 6ft square fence panels. Perfectly straight still and the used ash or similar for the wood because that's all good as well
This is a great option to digging out the entire post and surrounding concrete, with a repair that won't rot. That said, these concrete spurs don't appear readily available in the US. All those I see online are priced in pounds. Also, that is one jack leg fence with the rails toenailed into the post. Is it that hard to extend the rails across the post? Installer saved a few pounds this way but left this.
I've fenced for 7 years. dig it out pour a new post, use them cardboard cylinders if needed. fill and pack in dirt when done to relevel the dirt. no level needed just use panels to level side to side and by eye in and out of line use eye from one corner and average it out with the old fence, otherwise if the whole fence has a lean except 1 post that's gona look silly
good video, maybe you should have explained to viewers that the slope on the top of the concrete repair spur should fall away from the wooden post and not towards it. Easy mistake a novice d.i.yer could make. Personally if it were me and she wanted a quick cheap repair i would have replaced the wooden fence post for another wooden fence post, much cheaper to buy than a concrete spur, but to each their own mate. Keep the videos coming 👍
I agree, that sets off-the-fence uniformity. It would have been easier to have removed the whole 4X4 and replaced it with either a pressure treated 4X4 or a hybrid longer lasting 4X4. Most home owners are going to turn themselves inside out if you offer that solution. They are already committed to your labor cost, so do it correctly. By the way it's easy to say that replacing all 4X4 would be in order and a properly done repair.
When installing post pour concrete about 4 in above grade ,slope top no place for post to rot..stones first keep water off bottom treat with oil below grade..can use fiber tubes or makeshift form ,cut out milk bottle etc. do it right in the first place 😊
If you are at the point where you are digging around the pile just replace the entire post and tamp gravel in to hold in place. This also allows moisture to not sit on the post
you should put washers under the bolts so that that bolts are not eating into the concrete. Also another suggestion would be to get some liquid rubber or better yet everbuild 905 and treat the bottom of the posts before you bolt them together. It you are after a budget version of the same burn the bottom of the posts until they are charred on the outside. Charred wood does not rot and the posts are thick enough to still provide plenty of structural support
Older American here who has worked on a number of old fences in my day. I don't know if you left this step out or don't have this service in the UK. In the US it is strongly recommended that you call your equivalent of "811" before digging post holes. This is a free service provided by utility companies. They come out & mark where the underground utilities are located. If you don't & you damage something while digging, assuming you survive, you pay for the repair. Personally, I wouldn't do a repair like this. I'd replace the post completely. I'd use pressure treated lumber, replace the broken post completely & put a raised slope on the cement coming up out of the ground so that the water runs away from the base of the post. I'm surprised you didn't put a washer on your lag screws.
Thank you for another very interesting and enjoyable video to watch. I really enjoy watching your videos and have been a subscriber of your channel for a long time now so please don’t be offended when I say the following. I started my bricklaying apprenticeship way back in 1971 at the tender age of 15, and one of the first things that was drummed into us all was that the word plum was to be used when referencing the vertical, and the word level was to be used when referencing the horizontal (and never were we allowed to mix them up😅). Like I said before I don’t wish to offend you as you are very knowledgeable in a great many areas and make many wonderful videos, so please accept this little correction in the way that it was intended 😊👍
Because we have subterranean termites and wood rots quickly in my area,I use metal posts, like the ones for chain link fencing, on my wood fence. The posts and attachment brackets are affordable and available most everywhere.
I haven’t been able to locate on line in the US any similar posts. These might help with my sagging large gates by getting the existing gate posts plumb with new concrete posts.
I would use washers with those lag screws. The holes were quite a bit bigger than the screws and you could see the edges crumble when you snugged them up. That could just keep going, and how will you get your socket on it?
I like this quick fix. I live in the states and I have this problem with a post on my fence, and I noticed someone commented to just replace the post. In my case, that would be laborious because I used pickets instead of panels, 2x4's and the 4x4's of course and that would be a lot of work, and I actually did most of my fence when my husband broke his leg. He is just offering a quick fix. TFS
Why do people in the states always mention they live in the states? 😂
And did your husband get his leg fixed with professional treatment or was that also too laborious?
I've got a broken fence post that I've had propped up while I figure out how to fix it. Your video has shown me how simple it is to remedy. Cheers. I've dug the concrete bases of fence posts out in the past with a club hammer and big chisel and it's been a absolute nightmare so the last time, I invested in a rotary hammer drill to break the concrete up and boy, what a difference that made. You definitely need one of these if you're hoping to repair a broken post in a couple of hours.
Glad it helped!
Nowaday, itis very hard to get someone in to do small repair, very helpful to DIY! THANKS!
Best video I've seen using this technique...Yes you could just replace whole post, but if panel fixtures are on the neighbours side, you need access to the neighbours garden...and we don't all get on with our neighbours...!
That's the situation I'm in now. Fence is leaning in multiple consecutive sections, but the boards connect on the other side of the fence and the guy living next door has been ignoring us trying to make plans to replace about 54 feet (16.5 meters) of fence.
@@darkchia00 If you do get to replace whole fence, best to use concrete posts and gravel boards, I have concrete posts with the groove so when panel rots you can slide/drop another panel in to the posts, but you will need help as the concrete posts are very heavy..! Wood posts waste of time, keep rotting...Concrete and you will probably never have to replace a post...
My neighbour promises everything but delivers nothing.
I've done similar repairs using lengths of L-shaped steel extrusion, but those concrete spurs are a neat manufactured solution! I think I'd consider adding washers to the coach bolts, though.
Yeah you could. The hole inside the concrete post is conical. So the further you drive the bolt into the concrete the more it bites.
Good alternative to replacing a post that’s just gonna rot again. I like it
Glad you like it!
Good tutorial, thanks for the effort to show us. Once everything was exposed, I myself would just go the extra mile and replace the whole post.
Yes, and I don't even know if they're available in Lowes or Home Depot, but the UK price is 33 US dollars, which is way more than a new post!
@@JohnJones-qy5ko Yeah - but if you take a fence post out, it will damage the fence panels even more. So you might have much greater cost. Then it's not really a repair, but a replacement :)
@@rogink True, it depends on your situation. My fence panels are already damaged so they need work as well.
As a fencing contractor myself, nothing wrong with this other than, no washers on the coach screws😬 over time, wind will pull the bolts through the concrete spur, resulting in a loose timber post. Good informative video nevertheless 😎
They also look like nickel plated bolts. I would use galvanised bolts & washers for longevity.
I put a half length hardwood post in the ground up against the failing post. I quickly pair the two posts together with a 2 inch wide band of galvanized sheet metal. One screw through the overlapping sheet metal holds the two posts securely together. I then put a lower band of sheet metal as well. It takes about 20 minutes to do and should last another 50 years or so! Another good thing is that I am using old posts, sheet metal and screws which I have saved or found by the roadside!
DIY is right. For the same effort you can and should change the post as any proper builder would
😂 I was thinking the same thing after him cementing it in place lol
With the concrete post it won't rot.
@@BackyardTrekking Thought the same thing as soon as he broke out the rotary hammer. Because all homeowners have those.. Really don't understand this level of repair. You have it dug out like that, just replace the post, would have been much quicker and easier and had a better end result.
best diy channel on youtube. before i found you, i was to DIY what julian clary is to the SAS. but now with your easy step by step guides my missus thinks im a genius.
Thanks haha nice work
Please make another vid that shows us how to fix a broken country.
Quickly and Easily.
😂😂😂😂😂
Get rid of Starmer and turn the boats around! Jobs a goodun
A good video for advice and I have used these in the past for a quick repair. But quickly and easily...don't think so. I'm not in the trade and getting on in years and it took me several hours.
Similar happened to our fence a couple of years ago. Fixed/supported it with £3 steel straps. Still going strong.
Excellent video in terms of both presentation and content. I work as a handyman and have steered clear of post repairs for the most part but your technique might be something I'd consider doing now. I live near the sea where there are lots of strong winds and so lots of broken fence posts!
Thanks! Sounds like you could get some easy work around your area doing this job for people
Excellent solution! Got a couple posts in need of resuscitation and has never seen this before. It’s a bit like sistering cracked ribs on a wooden boat.
👍
Brother you've just saved me a lot of grief and wasted money - money that I don't have to spare! I have about 300' of fence that has gone just like the one in this video, and have been planning to replace it all this spring when the better weather comes.
I've never seen concrete spurs like what you used here, but will look for them. If worse comes to worst, I will cut some 4" x 4" post sections and make my own.
I'm embarrassed to say that I should have thought of this simple solution on my own, but I'm grateful you went to the trouble to show us how you did it.
Subbed!
It’s a nice fix for sure. However, if you don’t find the same materials…you could try buying a galvanized piece of fence pipe and sink it into the ground a few feet …. how deep depends on the load to be carried and your local frost line if applicable. You can use several fastening techniques as well as hiding the pipe with simple “boxing techniques”.
** The pipe can be sunk into the ground using a sledge hammer or set in place in a cement base according to the planned duration of the fix and/or budget concerns.
In fact most folks should always use galvanized piping for posts and then dress them up with wood boxing. No rot … no worries. 😉
@@presspound7358
The galvanized pipe is a great suggestion; probably even stronger than concrete spurs, as it won't crack pr bend - at least not a thick walled pipe won't. I'll look into it. As long as it can be secured strongly enough, it should innthwory last decades.
Thanks for your idea!
Here in Kiwi-land, they used to make concrete fence posts (very like the repair spur, but full length) and they last decades, even in swampy ground. Good video mate.
They make them in the UK as well
Awesome work. Never saw this technique before.
Fantastic video. I have 5 posts that have rotted and snapped and are currently propped up by temporary supports. Every time I look out into my garden, I just end up walking away from the window 🤣 What I also found was that Wickes' prices for spurs were about a tenner more expensive than from my local merchants, but I guess if you're in a hurry, then needs must...
Thanks mate. I have seen these posts implemented as a final result but good to see how it's done. Great job done. 🙏
Thanks 👍
Outstanding agreed
May God continue to bless you your work is second to none.
I live in Canada and have adopted the "Let it ROT" attitude. It's the quickest way.
Some sound advice there, thanks. I recently had a few broken posts and repaired them with Post Buddy, have you heard of them? No digging out of concrete required, on two sides of the post simply remove the soil down to the top of the concrete, bang in the Post Buddy metal stakes between the concrete and the post stump (two per post is usually enough, one front or back and one at the side), pop in a few screws, put back in the removed soil and that's it. Arguably they may not be as effective as your method but they are good enough and are certainly a lot easier. I've used these on severely rotted posts too.
Thanks for sharing 😊
They look much easier, thanks! ua-cam.com/video/OTAmK5vI1Kg/v-deo.htmlsi=eBVoQL-_QvY9m4UG
You d I yèrs should be banned from touching stuff.
Post Buddy metal stakes are good, until they bend in the next strong wind, have had to replace them before with concrete spurs like in this video.
I had this happen two years ago. Just as easy to prop up the two panels with spare wood, dig out the rotten bottom of the post and slot in a new one. Works a treat and not difficult to do.
"Bit of a bodge" suggests you are modest. Working for tightarse clients encourages that in my experience. Good job.
Good job. That said, if you have to jackhammer out some of the concrete you may as will dig it all out and set a new post.
Pro tip: Get a spur with an offset so it's top part is deeper than the bottom. This can actually "sit" on top of the old concrete plug, adding stability. If you can get 60 cm below ground in a tight hole, more concrete shouldn't be needed. Cheers!
Great work done here, fast simple and durable fixation
Thanks 👍
Wow, that's what I would like to do, too expensive to replace my entire fence, TY for sharing.
Great video, thank you. I would have replaced the entire post and kept the concrete support for extra support.
This is one of the reason why when building a fence with concrete, the concrete is higher than the ground and is domed so that the water runs down and away from the post. It also makes it easier to weed wack the grass away from the post with out hitting the wood post. With the bottom post out, why not just replace the whole post at this time and skip the concrete patch. Just my thoughts. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
😮😮😮😮 of
Wow I’ve never seen that technique before. Very interesting. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks, will do!
This technique is amazing! It actually doesn't look that bad. I have never seen a concrete spur like this in any building supply that I have been to. I would have to manufacture the spurs myself, in order to accomplish this repair method. I suppose there is are steel rebars inside the spur? Possibly 4 pieces going vertical and attached by wiring small pieces together? I guess a person could construct a form with sleeves for the holes to illuminate drilling? I wouldn't enjoy storing them.
Glad you like it!
I really enjoy watching your DIY instructional videos. I want to repair my backyard rotten wood fence posts with concrete spurs. However, I couldn't find any home improvement centers in California that offer it.
Hmm I’m afraid I can’t help with that.
I've got one of those to fix at home. Love these simple videos.
Hello from Canada...great video!!! A tough winter here and my fence did not stand up well! Just chatted with my neighbour and he suggested YT, glad I found you...Cheers!!
Thanks for watching 👍
Concreting is part of the problem, use packed stones it allows the wood to breathe and slow down decay. Also copper nails driven in the wood will help reduce the decay with their oxides
A simply brilliant video. Really helpful, clear and concise. Thank you, couldn’t have done the job without your help.
Glad it helped
@@TheDIYGuy1 honestly couldn’t have done it without you help!. The video really was brilliantly done thanks again
Superb, so useful. I'm confident enough i can't mess this up too much and i'm gonna try it!
You can do it!
Fantastic! I need to do 5 broken posts and I never knew about those concrete support posts. Doing this will save me so much time. Thank you 👍
Glad to help!
Never thought about water getting into the concrete. Good point.
Sorry. It looks like hell. You were almost there. Why not just pull the concrete out, and set a new post, instead of adding some ugly support? That horozontal piece should have been completely replaced with a single piece of pressure treated wood.
Even pressure treated can rot.
love your videos! I just wanted a media wall, but was planning to replace my gate and fix my fence, and you have ticked all the boxes to amazing stuff thanks
Glad I could help!
Nice! Those repair spurs are great! I've ever seen that type of prpoduct here in the States. Texas is the land of wood fences in developments. We use cedar wood for the fence slats and pressure treated wood for 4x4 posts and bracing 2x4s. Fences last a long time. It' usually not moisture but just lousy installs that gets our posts. I got one in my backyard now that I could use one of those concrete spurs!
Simple video on how to fix a rotten fence post 👍 I only use post concrete myself and think it’s a great product simple and very easy to use but I always wear a mask as it can become quite dusty product when pouring into the water.
I also install concrete posts when installing a new fence. Good point
You can mix postcrete in a plasterers bucket with a drill & paddle, it’ll set in less than 5 minutes.
No. No. No.@@stoopid787
Another quality video in simple detail People’s diy man 👏🏻
Thanks I do try
Couldn't agree more
great repair job, I have this problem and this will help me do the repairs
hello thank you for the instructions a very nice explanatory way to do this thank again
Also I would assume before installation
You can always burn the bottom of the fence post or the post that was being repaired and put some burnt diesel fuel oil on the post after it before putting it into the concrete and I'm not sure about concrete I think rocks would work I'm not
This is how they used to do it with log cabins
I suppose you could follow this with with but you always I believe you are supposed to leave a section open so the wood can breathe however I don't know that but the post however you do have to do this for interior doors I'm sure you're aware as it is for
I believe the bottom two but once it is burnt and has used diesel fuel oil on it that should do the trick as well.
However thank you for the informative information
It's an old school way that works on 4 x 4 I know that as I said people used to use the log cabin
This is coming from a family that are all contractors. Old school usually works really good.
Did it again thank you so much this is very informative I have a split level fence that has rotted at the base so I can try this thank you so much again and hoping you and yours have a great God blessed day in Jesus Christ name 🙏🏽
He might as well change the post he didn’t have much more to dig out🙈
This is brilliant! Sadly, the concrete repair spurs are not to be found here in the USA. All we have at Home Depot are 24 inch metal brackets that you pound in and bolt on. (Not deep enough and difficult to keep plumb.) Separating the rot from the solid wood is, I think, a critical step. I guess we could try to make our own.
The diagram of the string on the post on white board was finishing touch genius. Rocket science 😂 thank you 🙏
Glad it was helpful! 😂
Good solution and will last for years 👌🏻👍🏻
Great video, with one comment. "Level" refers to Horizontal surfaces, and the term "Plumb" is used for Vertical surfaces, I.E. Fenceposts.
Yep, I generalise to suit some of the viewers who don’t know the term plumb. This was requested on other videos as some who are less carpentry oriented didn’t understand what I was referring to.
Good job anything on fence gate building
We just shoved in some old bricks and compacted the soil around the post, didnt have a concrete support thingy, instead of pouring concrete, easy simple fix and sturdier than expected
Yeah but you need the concrete support post if the wooden has snapped, just like it shows in this video.
awesome Video , I
did not know about cement
repair post .. thank U 👍
Happy to help
Having done a few of these now, if you don’t have a lovely power tool with chisel, get yourself a chisel digging bar. Makes getting that old concrete out a bit easier.
This is an excellent explanation and runthrough, thanks a load. Do you have recommendations of how to get an old 4x4 post out of an existing cement base without starting over and trying to dig out the old one? I bought a house and it looks like someone just sawed through the posts on the patio, leaving smooth tops in cement anchors - I'd like to replace them and build a nice patio cover, without having to dig out a bunch of cement.
Instead of dealing with the existing concrete and broken post you can level the fence as shown but add two 4x4 pt posts to both sides of the damaged post in the middle of each panel for symmetry. It doesn't have to be a concrete post. Use pressure treated and bolt to the horizontal members similar to the concrete one shown. When stained or painted wont even notice and is a lot easier than chipping concrete.
Great video. But, is this any quicker than replacing the post?
Another quality how-to video is now moved to my DIY Guy playlist.👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video, clear instructions and very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks mate, I needed this info. I have 5 rotten posts which have now fully severed after the recent storms.
There is one post in the middle of the other 4 which is the only surviving one, practically holding the entire fence line up.
Only thing is, the other 4 were previously cemented in to a deep concrete pour (not by me), which was part of the original garden path/steps down the side of the house. Hard to explain, but basically I'm going to have to somehow dig through a large/deep amount of, awkwardly placed, poured concrete, to fix the posts. I considered bolting those metal post feet you can buy, into the concrete and attaching a support post within that, to the existing one. Like what you have done, but instead of digging, bolting to the existing floor or concrete around it.
It will look messy, but plant pots are great disguises XD.
ALSO: I have sold my house now, it's no longer mine. This was like this when they came to see it and bought it. Reckon I should do them a favour, or leave it to them to sort? It's a contentious issue..
It sounds like it’s one of them jobs you’ll just have to ‘find a way’ that suits the job at hand and you’ve thought outside the box with it. If your happy with the money you’ve made and can afford to do it then I would probably do it for them.
@@TheDIYGuy1 thanks for your advice mate. Yeh looks like I'm going to have to grab the SDS chisel bit out. Maybe even hire a pneumatic one and get digging!
I'm going to wait until mid to end of Feb, see how it holds up and decide whether it's worth it or not.
I feel like doing them a favour, but he is also a builder himself, ironically, he may wish I hadn't if he has other plans with the property in that area style wise..
Meet them half way. Do the 2 end ones 😬
Do want to know how professionals do it pal. No I won't tell, because you lot will just cock it up. Just stick to mowing lawns will ya.
I’ve repaired posts in the past by getting some heavy duty galvanised bars from tool station, use a grinder to put a sharp edge on one end and hammer down beside the broken post a foot into the concrete below between the old post and concrete then nail to the post above the ground. Ideally use at least two per post.
Wish they sold those repair spurs where I live in Houston! Great idea
I'm so glad you "posted" this video ❤
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1
Ahh come on!
A missed opportunity:
Thanks for your support.
😂😂 damn I did miss it. You guys are good.
@@TheDIYGuy1 It's a good job you didn't take " a fence" at his remark.😋
Lol the British video's always seem to help me more than the others. Not saying the American made videos are bad, but this works better for me! Thank you!!! Cheers!
Glad to help
My house is nearly 70yrs old and still got the original fence up with concrete posts behind 6ft square fence panels. Perfectly straight still and the used ash or similar for the wood because that's all good as well
👍
This is a great option to digging out the entire post and surrounding concrete, with a repair that won't rot. That said, these concrete spurs don't appear readily available in the US. All those I see online are priced in pounds.
Also, that is one jack leg fence with the rails toenailed into the post. Is it that hard to extend the rails across the post? Installer saved a few pounds this way but left this.
Nice repair mate. In a couple of hours i ripped out 7 sections out for me nan an installed new but their was 2 of us and cost about 500 for materials
And your point is!
Thanks - that was a really nicely explained repair and really well delivered 👌🏼
Glad you liked it!
I really don’t understand how this is much faster than replacing the post. You still have to dig and you still need to pour concrete.
I was going to say that. Wow. Just put in a new post.
Cut the panel nails remove old post, install new post. These just seems ridiculous
It looks a right mess too !
And it's a stupid looking repair too!
I've fenced for 7 years. dig it out pour a new post, use them cardboard cylinders if needed. fill and pack in dirt when done to relevel the dirt. no level needed just use panels to level side to side and by eye in and out of line use eye from one corner and average it out with the old fence, otherwise if the whole fence has a lean except 1 post that's gona look silly
As a fellow newbie DIY UA-camr, the quality of your Videos are not easy, as i am finding out. Well done mate.
good video, maybe you should have explained to viewers that the slope on the top of the concrete repair spur should fall away from the wooden post and not towards it. Easy mistake a novice d.i.yer could make. Personally if it were me and she wanted a quick cheap repair i would have replaced the wooden fence post for another wooden fence post, much cheaper to buy than a concrete spur, but to each their own mate. Keep the videos coming 👍
Thanks
Always somebody that just spots a plot.
Great video as the last storm took down a fence screening my oil tank. Now I know exactly who to properly fix. Thanks
Glad it helped
Great repair stronger than before but the cement post bit of a eye sore. Would it be a bigger job to replace the whole post?
You could do. Not a huge amount more work
I agree, that sets off-the-fence uniformity. It would have been easier to have removed the whole 4X4 and replaced it with either a pressure treated 4X4 or a hybrid longer lasting 4X4. Most home owners are going to turn themselves inside out if you offer that solution. They are already committed to your labor cost, so do it correctly.
By the way it's easy to say that replacing all 4X4 would be in order and a properly done repair.
When installing post pour concrete about 4 in above grade ,slope top no place for post to rot..stones first keep water off bottom treat with oil below grade..can use fiber tubes or makeshift form ,cut out milk bottle etc. do it right in the first place 😊
Love the arm sleeves.
If you are at the point where you are digging around the pile just replace the entire post and tamp gravel in to hold in place. This also allows moisture to not sit on the post
you should put washers under the bolts so that that bolts are not eating into the concrete. Also another suggestion would be to get some liquid rubber or better yet everbuild 905 and treat the bottom of the posts before you bolt them together. It you are after a budget version of the same burn the bottom of the posts until they are charred on the outside. Charred wood does not rot and the posts are thick enough to still provide plenty of structural support
Who the hell has told you that.
Older American here who has worked on a number of old fences in my day. I don't know if you left this step out or don't have this service in the UK. In the US it is strongly recommended that you call your equivalent of "811" before digging post holes. This is a free service provided by utility companies. They come out & mark where the underground utilities are located. If you don't & you damage something while digging, assuming you survive, you pay for the repair.
Personally, I wouldn't do a repair like this. I'd replace the post completely. I'd use pressure treated lumber, replace the broken post completely & put a raised slope on the cement coming up out of the ground so that the water runs away from the base of the post. I'm surprised you didn't put a washer on your lag screws.
Thank you for another very interesting and enjoyable video to watch. I really enjoy watching your videos and have been a subscriber of your channel for a long time now so please don’t be offended when I say the following. I started my bricklaying apprenticeship way back in 1971 at the tender age of 15, and one of the first things that was drummed into us all was that the word plum was to be used when referencing the vertical, and the word level was to be used when referencing the horizontal (and never were we allowed to mix them up😅). Like I said before I don’t wish to offend you as you are very knowledgeable in a great many areas and make many wonderful videos, so please accept this little correction in the way that it was intended 😊👍
No offence taken, your right. I just generalise when I say level as that’s what most people will know it as. Thanks for following the channel.
Good job. Earned a USA subscriber.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for subscribing
Thank you for this video. Great job!
Glad it was helpful!
Great production. Great job. Thanks.
Glad to help!
Because we have subterranean termites and wood rots quickly in my area,I use metal posts, like the ones for chain link fencing, on my wood fence. The posts and attachment brackets are affordable and available most everywhere.
Well done mate, cheers
Were they not coach screws you used not coach bolts? We refer to them as coach screw in Australia and Nea Zealand, a good repair demonstration.
Yep I didn’t realise I said bolts until the edit by which time it’s too late to change it without a dodgy voice over 😂
Not ausie mate.
Nice video, thanks! Roughneck heavy duty post hole diggers are a good way of digging post holes quickly. Maybe more for new ones rather than repairs.
Thanks for sharing 😊
The bodger was not digging new holes was he pal honestly you lot.
Perfect job
I haven’t been able to locate on line in the US any similar posts. These might help with my sagging large gates by getting the existing gate posts plumb with new concrete posts.
Would it not be almost the same amount of work and cheaper to replace the post?
Great fix. Could you use a piece of timber or fence post instead of the concrete spur?
Not as long lasting but cheaper and greener?
Sure could but it will rot again eventually
I would use washers with those lag screws. The holes were quite a bit bigger than the screws and you could see the edges crumble when you snugged them up. That could just keep going, and how will you get your socket on it?
Exellent job😊
Cheers
Just Found this Channel have Subscribed and like the content and your easy guying and helpfull advice..Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
You are the man.
Thanks.
🙂🙂🙂
just what i needed ! Thanks :)
Happy to help!
Good Video!!
Thanks
A great fix no point putting in another timber post only gonna rot again in a couple of years ,the concrete post will be there forever ,good job👍
Cheers 👍
Fantastic