We lost a wheel after service for wheel bearings & balancing. The TPMS never revealed an issue! Test your system when disconnected to rv. Turn on tpms system. Then check all pressures & temperatures. Now go to town, spend your day away from rv as normal and see when it advises no pressure or missing temps. These systems are not reliable 100%.
Two things: A longer tow vehicle is better for resisting sway. My first TV was a Sequoia, 118” WB, and driving in the wind or on a freeway could be a bit hair-raising. My current TV is a LWB Expedition, 131” WB. Same trailer, same hitch. The towing experience is a night and day difference. Second, and most important: Nothing to do with equipment, and it’s free: Take your time doing everything. Hitching up, unhitching, driving…everything. You’re working with heavy gear, and it will be dangerous if not done right. All my big mistakes have happened when I’ve been in a rush. RVing is lots of fun, but not when you break stuff, and not at all when you break people. Leave a bit earlier, arrive a bit later. Double check stuff. Drive in the slow lane and enjoy the scenery more. Trust me on this. You’ll be glad you did.
Great information, growing up on the farm pulling trailers Dad always said top of the wheel is for going forward, bottom is for backing up. I've got a 30 foot Keystone Passport, 5300lbs empty loaded as is about 6700 lbs, depending on how much food we have in the trailer. I tow with a Chevy Express extended Cargo van, 2500, ¾ ton. I installed extended tow mirrors, I got tired of the strap on mirrors shaking while driving and everything is jumping around on the mirror. Installed 2 backup cameras, one on the van and one on the camper. My next upgrade is a better suspension on the travel trailer to help get rid of the porpoising. One other thing I think should have been in the video, "SLOW DOWN SOME AND ALWAYS TRY TO LEAVE A LITTLE EXTRA ROOM BETWEEN YOU AND THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF YOU" Just because you can tow at the speed or flow of traffic, do you really need to be running 65 in a 55 zone? Driving too fast is a huge makes a huge difference if things start to go bad. 10 MPH could be the difference between a crash and not a crash. Take care and be careful out on the road. Arrive alive. From Charlie
Camping this past weekend at Bahia Honda State Park in Florida, we met all kinds of campers - experienced, noobs, and of course the guy who camps once a year in his 400 ft fifth tri-axle wheel being pulled by a Chevy 1500. In fact this guy asked me about my 19ft Lance and how I liked pulling a bumper pull trailer. Don't judge a book by its cover as I used to drive tractor trailers, and just sold my F450 pulling a 38ft three horse slant with living quarters around the US. Anyway, I told him he seemed to be a put "under-trucked" and he said, nope. Haven't had a problem so far! Then he asked how I knew. So I went in the trailer, pulled out the laptop with my spreadsheet showing whether you're in spec or over weighted. Using his truck and trailer's numbers, I showed him he was 5,200 over weight with his trailer. I asked if he had his owner's manual, but he couldn't find it.... Remember, he asked me my opinion. He furled his brow and said my software was for bumper pull only. Sigh... Anyway, I wished him a nice weekend and off he went. About 15 minutes later, his wife came up to me and asked if my data was correct. I believe it to be. She was concerned. Not only is it dangerous to him and his family, but the rest of us using the same roads as Mr Towitall. My last caution to her was, if they did get in an accident and it was their fault, their insurance company might not cover them as he knowingly overloaded the vehicle. Heaven forbid if anyone gets hurt....
The best part is he asked how you knew? I have never towed, been doing research and even I know. Crazy to me to not even know your numbers. Hopefully his wife is smarter than he is.
If you don't want to know the answer, don't ask the questions. You handled that well and hopefully planted a seed for safety! From one Tractor Trailer Driver to another, Great job!
Just don’t tell him his insurance might not cover him. Only an experienced lawyer or judge can accurately make that statement. Seems like insurance companies cover a drunk driver who gets in a bad crash. Then how could they legally not cover a guy whose only fault was that a trailer was over weight?
Excellent overview of towing basics. Thank you. I was glad you spent time on tongue weight and load distribution. It is critical to smooth, sway free towing. One thing I wish you had discussed was proper tire inflation, which I also think is a big deal and often overlooked.
You forgot something, the perfect mate to your B&W companion hitch is a Morryde rubber pin box. It does an amazing job of reducing chucking and dampening the motion between the trailer and truck. Thus reduces the associated damage and wear and tear. Now that I have one I will never go without. I have about 20,000 - 30,000 miles on mine.
Don’t forget to look up when surveying a site that your backing into. Everyone should look up tire date codes before you buy new tires. I’ve been on the road as a full timer for 20 years.
Great video and awesome tips. FYI, if possible, try to avoid blind side back if unavoidable, have a spotter, explain hand signals what they are what they mean and, most importantly, why. If you are solo, ask someone to spot you, but keep in mind it's all up to you how stressful you want to make it. MOST IMPORTANTLY, IT'S NOT A RACE. NO NEED TO RUSH ANYTIME YOUR BACKING.
Biggest trailer towing stress relief for me was installing 2 cameras on the rear of the trailer. One pointing back and the other pointing down. A big monitor to watch for traffic makes a huge difference and also for positioning at campsites and the storage location.
Regarding applying trailer brakes when experiencing sway, there's a VERY important disclaimer. I can only speak for the Ford F-150 in that the owner's manual explicitly states that trailer brakes must not be used to reduce sway as it interferes with the onboard computers trying to do the same thing. I put that out there as a note of caution that all folks out there need to be aware of what exactly their owner's manual recommends while towing.
I agree. Air bags are not to correct load. Unfortunately, I see on FB RV sites, people push air bags over WDH. Very good VLOG. Well needed information.
Timely video as I head from Florida to Missouri to pick up our first self contained travel trailer (we previously owned a very small micro camper.) We added a brake controller to the truck and a weight distribution kit from the dealer to the trailer based on your previous videos. I'm traveling solo and reserved a pull through site for the overnight stop on the way home. I don't intend to unhitch until I get home and can take the rig out to the county fairground to practice backing it up. Here's hoping for no white knuckles on the way back!
Great tip about holding the bottom of the steering wheel when backing. Someone told me that when I first started out, and it really flattened out my learning curve. I was given another great tip early on that made right-hand turning easier. Don't begin turning your truck until your hips reach the end of the corner. Basically, the front of your truck and the front doors should be into the intersection. This is just enough to allow my RAM 3500 dually and 40' Redwood fifth wheel to clear the corner without riding the curb.
10:07 watch the tail on winding roads with narrow shoulders. Almost learned this the hard way on our first major trip with our first RV. The back of our 40' toyhauler almost hit the side of a mountain going up Hwy 18 to Big Bear Lake California.
With a 5th wheel you can combine the trailer brake test with an "is my hitch really locked" test. When you raise your landing gear stop when it has just cleared the ground. Now test the trailer brakes. Now if your hitch wasn't really locked your trailer will fall just a fraction of an inch onto the landing gear instead of crushing your truck bed.
The companion is a great hitch for beginner 5er users like myself. Very easy to verify you are properly hitched before pulling away. And I can see it and the pin thru my rear window when backing meaning I can hook up solo if needed
Great video, thanks! We purchased the weigh safe hitch and absolutely love it. It has the scale built into it. We have a 30-foot trailer 8000 lbs and get no sway when passing a semi. I'm just sharing in case anyone is looking for a great distribution hitch
Excellent video. Having towed over 800 RVs plus my own from Florida to Alaska, one point I'd add is height. Know the height of your RV. For example at 10:20 in your video you show RVs in for fuel. Not all covered pumps have a height of 13'6", which is generally the maximum legal height of most vehicles. If the entrance to the cover isn't shown, have someone watch as you pull under the cover.
Great video! As previously mentioned, proper tire inflation and keeping your speed in check for the road conditions are two very important factors to consider. What has helped me be less stressed while towing our 36' ft.5thwheel is having LT tires on the trailer and having plenty of power on tap. I have a 6.7 Cummins Mega 2500 that handles our trailer beautifully.
Have always wondered what that tool was that came with the trailer for the sway bars. I thought it was just for the old chain type. I have the exact same type weight distribution bars for our GD Imagine and have always just lifted the truck with the jack until it was high enough to swing over. 🙄 Thanks as always for the great information!!!
Thank you again Jerry, a lot of really good info especially on WDH and air bags. You didn't mention anything on air pressure of you tow vehicle. I've heard a lot of those towing add more air to their rear tires. I would've like to hear you talk about that.
I have the exact weight distribution hitch as shown in the video. I switched to a Gen-Y Boss hitch for the truck connection and it made a huge difference. I don't feel every bump from the trailer anymore. Works great. The bottom hand on the steering wheel when backing up is genius. Good video!
Thanks Jared! - Another great video! - Equlizer has a plastic accessory that removes those annoying metal-on-metal grinding sounds - I really like them - Highly recommend.
you know how many people know about that trailer brake trick to stop the trailer whip? well more now, that is really good that you pointed that out, as that has saved me before... Though weighing ahead of time and doing it right is the right thing.. but hey Stuff happens. Anyway, great video as always, keep it up.
Jared, like the cargo box in the back of your bed. Looking for something just like you have that will sit just under a tonneau cover, but big enough to stow tools and a portable winch. Mind sharing the particulars about it?
We have the Equalizer 4 and love it. We are using a 2018 Grand Caravan to pull our Coachman 17FQ (2,800 lbs). We had it installed when we purchased the trailer in 2014, and have used it on two different Grand Caravans. I have never felt unsafe. The Van and Trailer run level. The minor issue, is that occasionally the lower part of the hits hits the ground when crossing curbs and elevation changes when backing into campsites. Got to try and figure that out when our new tow vehicle finally arrives.
If you ever towed with a Hensley Arrow hitch you may reconsider a 5th Wheel. I have gone from tent trailer thru 40’ class A Pusher now to a travel trailer. The Hensley has made it like a fifth but lower height and more selection. Worth every penny. Even been thru a Hurricane…lol but a must is a TPMS… no mater what you RV with. RAM HD Diesel’s all the way and Cummins. Use AirRide bags for comfort and chucking. Great content
Great video! Indeed, we went all the way up, from a 1500 series to a 1ton truck, with the same trailer…and we are certainly enjoying the serenity at the wheel…relaxing, and much safer… I know that it’s not for everyone, but with a TT that has 1000 pounds on the tong…it is really changing the way forward! 😂 Thanks Jared! Always such great advice :-) Remi (finally on the road of retirement!!!) PS: A diesel truck is also a game changer…that engine break!!!
Also, if you have a newer Ram truck, mine is a 2015, you might have a "tow/haul mode" button on the console somewhere next to the exhaust brake button. If you don't already use it, internet lookup what it does and ---how it functions---. It, in conjunction with the exhaust brake, work very well together on up/down rolling hills and both side of a mountain pass. I can set the cruise control and the computer does *almost* all of the speed, and transmission, management. When I'm on winding roads I can't always use the cruise control, but the tow/haul and exhaust brake are still working together. It's just up to me to provide a bit of 'encouragement' to the accelerator or brakes when the cruise isn't engaged.
Thanks for the advice. As usual you had a lot of help. My husband taught me that trick about putting my hand at the bottom of the wheel when backing up. Good job!
I have had alot of towing experience with bumper hitch trailers at work and camping then we got a motorhome with a tow behind, now we have gone to a fifth wheel trailer and i had a issue when i first got it as my truck was really high and overkill for the trailer (ram 3500 srw and 25ft fifth wheel) anyway i had the hitch adjusted aĺl i could get out of it and the trailer was still way nose high. It ended up i had to engineer my own 4" lift blocks for a truck and make them work on the trailer. Pulls almost perfectly flat now
I have plenty of truck 350 daully 5215 payload capacity with 2900lbs pin weight I had to add 2" leveling kit to front so snow plow mount would be a proper height to connect plow. truck doesn't squat much but may add air bags just to keep it level once im hitched.Tht wouldn't really change anything would it other than keep truck pretty well level. Not sure if they would change ride much Had the. On my single wheel sometimes it would bounce on really rough roads but never figured out if that was bags making bounce or if they actually helped with some it
Good stuff. I want to emphasis what you said: Air bags alone, WILL make things worse. They will take more weight off the front tires, not distribute the weight forward. I say this because I have friends who still believe this and it is an accident waiting to happen. Some a have a Jeep, tow a heavy trailer and added airbags to raise the rear end of the Jeep. Anyone who doesn't agree with this should do their own research on airbags for weight distribution. It is a huge safety issue.
Any communication method is an improvement. We chose radios over the cell phone because we have camped in areas that did not have cell phone coverage. The radios always work, no matter where we are.
Can you give a few tips on towing in the mountians, how and when use exhaust brake, if gearing down is important. reason for asking i have never towed in mountain country. I have a ram 3500 and a 337rls reflection fifth wheel. Love your channel, you give alot of helpful info.
First, slow speed, slow speed, slow speed in the mountains. Second, Gearing down is fine but at low speeds the transmission will compensate for the speed, unless you have a manual tranny. Note: Try NOT to over rev the engine. Third, use the brakes sparingly to help maintain low speed. Don't ride the brakes they can overheat and fail.
Like you said, our first trailer purchase the sales person said we would be fine but the trailer was only 5 % below the SUV's max. Tow weight. Scary trip to California 😮😮
Wonderful tips. Thanks. We have a 2016 Toyota Sequioa towing capacity is 7000LBS, tongue weight 700lbs. TT 2506S Roockwood Minilite: 5528lbs tongue weight 814lbs. We have sway issues in spite of the sway bars that you mentioned. What else can we do to prevent the sway. Thanks.
question - where are your trailer tires when you start backing up? Is there a rule of thumb? Should they be just passed the site you want to back into? 5', 10'? I've also noticed that a lot of semi drivers prefer to not make a "blind" backup, they prefer to back into a site where they can look out their drivers window and see the trailer.
I have more concerns about tire TEMPERATURE, not pressure as driving on Hot roads like the 40 or 10 on the west coast in summer. My tires are at 110 psi cold
As a RV’r and a Tire and automotive business owner I feel I need to say that Air bag system’s are not designed for trailer weight distribution, they are designed to distribute the weight load evenly across the truck so it keeps the front steering axle weight firmly placed on the ground to ensure proper control and safety. Because when the the rear wheels are pushed down, it pulls up the front and can cause a loose steering and braking issue. Also the speed rating on the tire doesn’t just mean to a certain speed but it is safe to that specific speed at its maximum load rating at its maximum air pressure.
You literally just said they aren’t for weight distribution and that they are to distribute the weight, all in the same sentence. You should delete this comment.
For backing a trailer I prefer to think “trailer left/wheel right, trailer right/wheel left” (hands in the usual 10-2 position of course). Don’t know why but it works better for me than using the hand at 6 o’clock position.
Biggest anxiety is backing into a very tight camping spot and all eyes in the campground are on you. Face it, most of these state parks were made over 50 years ago and weren’t designed to accommodate 25’ or longer travel trailers and even larger 5th wheels. One thing I did before heading out was practicing backing into spots. Had a long haul trucker give me a lot of tips
You mentioned that vehicle air bags "can make things worse" and then quickly moved on. Would like to hear more on why you feel that way. I understand that air bags don't help/effect towing capacaties, but they sure can make the ride more comfortable.
I'd also like to hear the reasoning behind this statement, and whether he thinks it applies to just bumper pulls or to all trailers. I use air bags while towing my 5th wheel. The scales say they've done a great job of shifting weight from the rear to the front axle.
I have been looking to upgrade the suspension on my truck and was thinking of going with timbren, then looked more into it and now thinking sumosprings. I have not pulled the trigger yet but curious why you chose timbren over sumosprings on your truck?
I'm going to brainstorm you for this question Jared, does the 5th wheel weight change with a gooseneck hookup? We bought a 5th wheel converted to a gooseneck. Assuming it was factory because the previous owner was first time owner with the new RV and his truck he pulled with was a flatbed horse pulling truck. Any tips with a smooth ride with it? Our truck is accommodative for this type of hook up! Or the 5th wheel either one.
I (73F) have a 2500 GMC Sierra and a Jayco White Hawk 28RL. Do I absolutely need a weight distribution system? They are a pain in the ass, back, legs, and arms. A total headache!! Especially if I want to unhook and drive around while I’m camping. I’ve driven without with no problem. Am I taking a risk? In a few years I plan to sell my house and buy a bigger truck and 5th wheel but the pull behind is it for now. Thanks!
Have a quick question. I have a 19 ram rebel with upgraded shocks, and rear springs. I just saw the new 2024 GRAND DESIGN REFLECTION 100 SERIES 22RK. Which is about 26’ and dry weight is around 6900lbs. My question is would that be ideal to haul it with truck.
No, it comes out of the factory with a factory determined payload, towing capacity etc. everything in the truck was designed with certain overall capacity limits (axles, bearings, drive shaft, transmission etc).
It comes down to upgrading your truck’s suspension, and braking system (my 2500 brakes are almost the size of a semi truck, almost LOL) and my 1500 brakes are just slightly bigger than a cars. You can upgrade the axles and tires. Then you’ll be able to tow a little more weight… The chasis on your current truck will prevent you from towing that much more… it’s cheaper to get the new truck unless you can do all that yourself. The main issue with towing is not so much “can the truck pull it?” It’s more like, will it be able to stop? 🤷🏻♂️
You said you should address the problem but a weight distribution hitch can put extra strain on the tongue and people with large travel trailers are vulnerable to bending and where do you think all this weight is going? Wouldn't you think it would take away from the payload to your travel trailer as well? if you want to go by what you preach you need to get a stronger truck or leaf springs instead of putting more stress on the travel trailers frame
My 2 cents about brake controllers is about adjusting them for speed. In parking lots if it grabs and jerks you; lessen the power from a high number to low. When traveling at highway speed - 55 or more, increase the numbers to better assist braking for those unexpected hard braking instances for animals, stupid drivers or rough pavement. Practice how various postions effect your driving as described by manually applying trailer brakes to be aware how it functions. Adjusted to slow or idle speeds in parking lots will do nothing at 60 miles per hour!
5th wheel and gooseneck are the way to go. Now, as far as sway goes on a bumper pull...if you have your weight distributed properly (visit a CAT scale and get your axle weights unloaded and loaded) you shouldn't have issues with sway.
Great video, and yes I agree with those dealerships. They will sell you a truck or an RV and don't know as much about RVs or Towing, as you would think. I cross the Rockies every year with my 5th wheel setup (Seattle to Michigan) and can't express how pleased I am with my setup. Just completed leg from Richfield UT to Denver CO, which is the true test of your system. What a treat for the eyes, such a gorgeous drive, highly recommend it. In summary get a diesel truck, 5th wheel (under 36ft=sweet spot), make sure the GCWR < 75%, get better rated tires (mine came with E, changed them to G), tpms/rear camera integrates nicely with my GMC Denali ultimate towing package. By the way I'm selling, if someone wants it please reach out. My info is on my channel. I'm a pro trader. Stock Market stuff
Far too often car dealerships will go by the advertised capabilities of the vehicles they're selling instead of how each individual vehicle is equipped. Those advertised numbers usually say in small print "when properly equipped". Always check those numbers and research things like payload packages before buying. A "trailer towing" package doesn't necessarily equip the vehicle with the correct ratings and capabilities for hauling or towing more than a full tank of fuel. Many trailer towing packages give you wiring and trans coolers and maybe heavy duty shocks, but that isn't going to haul the actual load.
I don't like any trailer hitch that's using friction bars. Sway control is only needed on the Fwy at Fwy speeds. What happens when you're driving around town going to Walmart or backing into RV site? You don't need sway control. I have Camco Recurve R6 and I can turn sway ON/OFF as needed. Far superior then using friction bars.
My question is should the GVWR of the trailer be under to tow vehicles GVWR? Because our trailers dry weight is 6,140 GVWR IS 9,160. I have a 2020 f150 super crew 2.7 eco 145 wheelbase axle ratio is 3.55 GWVR IS 6,600lbs,
Short answer: I’m afraid you have a much bigger trailer than you can safely tow with that truck. I’m sorry. Long answer: 1) Actual loaded weight of the truck AND trailer must not exceed the GCWR (gross combined weight rating) of your truck. You can look up this rating in Ford’s towing guide for your MY. 2) actual loaded weight of your truck (just the truck axles) with trailer attached, measured on a scale, must not exceed the GVWR of the truck. I recommend also checking the axle weight ratings. These will be on the vehicle placard on the door jamb. Another way to get at #2 is to measure the weight of all passengers, cargo, trailer hitch and trailer tongue weight. This total must not be more than the truck’s payload, also on the vehicle placard.
@@matthewaaron664 It's so frustrating to read stories like this, where dealers are more interested in their commission than your safety. It's rampant in the RV business. Caveat emptor.
I am having a hard time finding info on porpoising and what I need to do to ensure I'm towing properly. I have a new 2024 GMC 2500 HD Denali Ultimate. My understanding is that it's equivalent to a one ton since it has the towing package. I haul a Venture Touring bumper pull with a hitch weight of 1250 lbs. with a total of 9000 lbs. My weight distribution hitch is rated for 1400/14000. I had some porpoising on my last trip. Help someone??
In trucking terms it's called cut and chase, cut and chase. Keep in mind the shorter the trailer the quicker the response from the steering wheel. Go slow when backing up also looking in your mirrors turn the wheel in the direction that the rear of the trailer is going and that will correct the swing.
Tpms and camera has been the best stress reliever on my travel trailer
We lost a wheel after service for wheel bearings & balancing. The TPMS never revealed an issue! Test your system when disconnected to rv. Turn on tpms system. Then check all pressures & temperatures. Now go to town, spend your day away from rv as normal and see when it advises no pressure or missing temps. These systems are not reliable 100%.
My favorite tip is the hand position on the steering wheel. Takings the counterintuitive thinking out of it!
Two things:
A longer tow vehicle is better for resisting sway. My first TV was a Sequoia, 118” WB, and driving in the wind or on a freeway could be a bit hair-raising. My current TV is a LWB Expedition, 131” WB. Same trailer, same hitch. The towing experience is a night and day difference.
Second, and most important:
Nothing to do with equipment, and it’s free: Take your time doing everything. Hitching up, unhitching, driving…everything. You’re working with heavy gear, and it will be dangerous if not done right. All my big mistakes have happened when I’ve been in a rush. RVing is lots of fun, but not when you break stuff, and not at all when you break people. Leave a bit earlier, arrive a bit later. Double check stuff. Drive in the slow lane and enjoy the scenery more. Trust me on this. You’ll be glad you did.
Great tips....thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻
Great information, growing up on the farm pulling trailers Dad always said top of the wheel is for going forward, bottom is for backing up.
I've got a 30 foot Keystone Passport, 5300lbs empty loaded as is about 6700 lbs, depending on how much food we have in the trailer. I tow with a Chevy Express extended Cargo van, 2500, ¾ ton. I installed extended tow mirrors, I got tired of the strap on mirrors shaking while driving and everything is jumping around on the mirror. Installed 2 backup cameras, one on the van and one on the camper. My next upgrade is a better suspension on the travel trailer to help get rid of the porpoising.
One other thing I think should have been in the video, "SLOW DOWN SOME AND ALWAYS TRY TO LEAVE A LITTLE EXTRA ROOM BETWEEN YOU AND THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF YOU"
Just because you can tow at the speed or flow of traffic, do you really need to be running 65 in a 55 zone? Driving too fast is a huge makes a huge difference if things start to go bad. 10 MPH could be the difference between a crash and not a crash.
Take care and be careful out on the road. Arrive alive.
From Charlie
Camping this past weekend at Bahia Honda State Park in Florida, we met all kinds of campers - experienced, noobs, and of course the guy who camps once a year in his 400 ft fifth tri-axle wheel being pulled by a Chevy 1500. In fact this guy asked me about my 19ft Lance and how I liked pulling a bumper pull trailer. Don't judge a book by its cover as I used to drive tractor trailers, and just sold my F450 pulling a 38ft three horse slant with living quarters around the US. Anyway, I told him he seemed to be a put "under-trucked" and he said, nope. Haven't had a problem so far! Then he asked how I knew. So I went in the trailer, pulled out the laptop with my spreadsheet showing whether you're in spec or over weighted. Using his truck and trailer's numbers, I showed him he was 5,200 over weight with his trailer. I asked if he had his owner's manual, but he couldn't find it.... Remember, he asked me my opinion. He furled his brow and said my software was for bumper pull only. Sigh... Anyway, I wished him a nice weekend and off he went. About 15 minutes later, his wife came up to me and asked if my data was correct. I believe it to be. She was concerned. Not only is it dangerous to him and his family, but the rest of us using the same roads as Mr Towitall. My last caution to her was, if they did get in an accident and it was their fault, their insurance company might not cover them as he knowingly overloaded the vehicle. Heaven forbid if anyone gets hurt....
The best part is he asked how you knew? I have never towed, been doing research and even I know. Crazy to me to not even know your numbers. Hopefully his wife is smarter than he is.
If you don't want to know the answer, don't ask the questions. You handled that well and hopefully planted a seed for safety! From one Tractor Trailer Driver to another, Great job!
Just don’t tell him his insurance might not cover him. Only an experienced lawyer or judge can accurately make that statement. Seems like insurance companies cover a drunk driver who gets in a bad crash. Then how could they legally not cover a guy whose only fault was that a trailer was over weight?
Great advise and information for someone looking to buy their 1st RV, Thank you.
Excellent overview of towing basics. Thank you. I was glad you spent time on tongue weight and load distribution. It is critical to smooth, sway free towing. One thing I wish you had discussed was proper tire inflation, which I also think is a big deal and often overlooked.
You forgot something, the perfect mate to your B&W companion hitch is a Morryde rubber pin box. It does an amazing job of reducing chucking and dampening the motion between the trailer and truck. Thus reduces the associated damage and wear and tear. Now that I have one I will never go without. I have about 20,000 - 30,000 miles on mine.
Don’t forget to look up when surveying a site that your backing into. Everyone should look up tire date codes before you buy new tires. I’ve been on the road as a full timer for 20 years.
Great video and awesome tips. FYI, if possible, try to avoid blind side back if unavoidable, have a spotter, explain hand signals what they are what they mean and, most importantly, why. If you are solo, ask someone to spot you, but keep in mind it's all up to you how stressful you want to make it. MOST IMPORTANTLY, IT'S NOT A RACE. NO NEED TO RUSH ANYTIME YOUR BACKING.
If you have a spotter, both of you most likely also have cell phones. They are a great way to communicate even when you don't have eye contact.
Biggest trailer towing stress relief for me was installing 2 cameras on the rear of the trailer. One pointing back and the other pointing down. A big monitor to watch for traffic makes a huge difference and also for positioning at campsites and the storage location.
Regarding applying trailer brakes when experiencing sway, there's a VERY important disclaimer. I can only speak for the Ford F-150 in that the owner's manual explicitly states that trailer brakes must not be used to reduce sway as it interferes with the onboard computers trying to do the same thing. I put that out there as a note of caution that all folks out there need to be aware of what exactly their owner's manual recommends while towing.
When backing in, my wife is the spotter and we use Driver/passenger instead of left/right. No confusion that way.
I agree. Air bags are not to correct load. Unfortunately, I see on FB RV sites, people push air bags over WDH. Very good VLOG. Well needed information.
So true. Air bags just hide a weight problem. They don’t fix it.
Also, always remember GOAL (Get Out And Look) if there is any doubt, especially when backing by yourself without a spotter.
Timely video as I head from Florida to Missouri to pick up our first self contained travel trailer (we previously owned a very small micro camper.) We added a brake controller to the truck and a weight distribution kit from the dealer to the trailer based on your previous videos. I'm traveling solo and reserved a pull through site for the overnight stop on the way home. I don't intend to unhitch until I get home and can take the rig out to the county fairground to practice backing it up. Here's hoping for no white knuckles on the way back!
Great tip about holding the bottom of the steering wheel when backing. Someone told me that when I first started out, and it really flattened out my learning curve. I was given another great tip early on that made right-hand turning easier. Don't begin turning your truck until your hips reach the end of the corner. Basically, the front of your truck and the front doors should be into the intersection. This is just enough to allow my RAM 3500 dually and 40' Redwood fifth wheel to clear the corner without riding the curb.
I don't understand your description of backing in at all. "Hips"? "Intersection"?
Oh I see, you were describing a right turn! Nevermind. Thanks.
So, not so far into the intersection for shorter trailers? I like this methods of guaging when to turn, but my TT is about half the length of yours.
Thanks for that tip on backing up and steering! I drove a tractor trailer and never had that explained so simply 😂😂😂👍👍👍
10:07 watch the tail on winding roads with narrow shoulders. Almost learned this the hard way on our first major trip with our first RV. The back of our 40' toyhauler almost hit the side of a mountain going up Hwy 18 to Big Bear Lake California.
With a 5th wheel you can combine the trailer brake test with an "is my hitch really locked" test. When you raise your landing gear stop when it has just cleared the ground. Now test the trailer brakes. Now if your hitch wasn't really locked your trailer will fall just a fraction of an inch onto the landing gear instead of crushing your truck bed.
Enjoyed the video once again ! I always learn something when I watch your info ! Stay safe
Backing up I was always taught to "chase the mirrors". If you're seeing too much trailer in the right mirror, turn towards the right, or vice versa.
The companion is a great hitch for beginner 5er users like myself. Very easy to verify you are properly hitched before pulling away. And I can see it and the pin thru my rear window when backing meaning I can hook up solo if needed
Great video, thanks! We purchased the weigh safe hitch and absolutely love it. It has the scale built into it. We have a 30-foot trailer 8000 lbs and get no sway when passing a semi. I'm just sharing in case anyone is looking for a great distribution hitch
Great videos. Just brought home our first RV yesterday. Have rented a few times in the past. BTW you have the best motor for towing.
Excellent video. Having towed over 800 RVs plus my own from Florida to Alaska, one point I'd add is height. Know the height of your RV. For example at 10:20 in your video you show RVs in for fuel. Not all covered pumps have a height of 13'6", which is generally the maximum legal height of most vehicles. If the entrance to the cover isn't shown, have someone watch as you pull under the cover.
I have the height of our TT, in both ft and m, on a label under my centre console lid. Where I can find it in an instant.
Great video! As previously mentioned, proper tire inflation and keeping your speed in check for the road conditions are two very important factors to consider. What has helped me be less stressed while towing our 36' ft.5thwheel is having LT tires on the trailer and having plenty of power on tap. I have a 6.7 Cummins Mega 2500 that handles our trailer beautifully.
Have always wondered what that tool was that came with the trailer for the sway bars. I thought it was just for the old chain type. I have the exact same type weight distribution bars for our GD Imagine and have always just lifted the truck with the jack until it was high enough to swing over. 🙄 Thanks as always for the great information!!!
Thank you again Jerry, a lot of really good info especially on WDH and air bags. You didn't mention anything on air pressure of you tow vehicle. I've heard a lot of those towing add more air to their rear tires. I would've like to hear you talk about that.
13:40 also pull close to the side your going to back into because when backing up the front of your vehicle will swing out
I have the exact weight distribution hitch as shown in the video. I switched to a Gen-Y Boss hitch for the truck connection and it made a huge difference. I don't feel every bump from the trailer anymore. Works great. The bottom hand on the steering wheel when backing up is genius. Good video!
Thanks Jared! - Another great video! - Equlizer has a plastic accessory that removes those annoying metal-on-metal grinding sounds - I really like them - Highly recommend.
Great information 👍
you know how many people know about that trailer brake trick to stop the trailer whip? well more now, that is really good that you pointed that out, as that has saved me before... Though weighing ahead of time and doing it right is the right thing.. but hey Stuff happens.
Anyway, great video as always, keep it up.
Jared, like the cargo box in the back of your bed. Looking for something just like you have that will sit just under a tonneau cover, but big enough to stow tools and a portable winch. Mind sharing the particulars about it?
The weigh safe weight distribution hitches with their built in scale and app are amazing to getting a great wd hitch setup!
We have the Equalizer 4 and love it. We are using a 2018 Grand Caravan to pull our Coachman 17FQ (2,800 lbs). We had it installed when we purchased the trailer in 2014, and have used it on two different Grand Caravans. I have never felt unsafe. The Van and Trailer run level.
The minor issue, is that occasionally the lower part of the hits hits the ground when crossing curbs and elevation changes when backing into campsites. Got to try and figure that out when our new tow vehicle finally arrives.
If you ever towed with a Hensley Arrow hitch you may reconsider a 5th Wheel. I have gone from tent trailer thru 40’ class A Pusher now to a travel trailer. The Hensley has made it like a fifth but lower height and more selection. Worth every penny. Even been thru a Hurricane…lol but a must is a TPMS… no mater what you RV with. RAM HD Diesel’s all the way and Cummins. Use AirRide bags for comfort and chucking. Great content
Great video! Indeed, we went all the way up, from a 1500 series to a 1ton truck, with the same trailer…and we are certainly enjoying the serenity at the wheel…relaxing, and much safer… I know that it’s not for everyone, but with a TT that has 1000 pounds on the tong…it is really changing the way forward! 😂 Thanks Jared! Always such great advice :-) Remi (finally on the road of retirement!!!) PS: A diesel truck is also a game changer…that engine break!!!
Also, if you have a newer Ram truck, mine is a 2015, you might have a "tow/haul mode" button on the console somewhere next to the exhaust brake button. If you don't already use it, internet lookup what it does and ---how it functions---. It, in conjunction with the exhaust brake, work very well together on up/down rolling hills and both side of a mountain pass. I can set the cruise control and the computer does *almost* all of the speed, and transmission, management. When I'm on winding roads I can't always use the cruise control, but the tow/haul and exhaust brake are still working together. It's just up to me to provide a bit of 'encouragement' to the accelerator or brakes when the cruise isn't engaged.
Thanks for the advice. As usual you had a lot of help. My husband taught me that trick about putting my hand at the bottom of the wheel when backing up. Good job!
I have had alot of towing experience with bumper hitch trailers at work and camping then we got a motorhome with a tow behind, now we have gone to a fifth wheel trailer and i had a issue when i first got it as my truck was really high and overkill for the trailer (ram 3500 srw and 25ft fifth wheel) anyway i had the hitch adjusted aĺl i could get out of it and the trailer was still way nose high. It ended up i had to engineer my own 4" lift blocks for a truck and make them work on the trailer. Pulls almost perfectly flat now
I have plenty of truck 350 daully 5215 payload capacity with 2900lbs pin weight I had to add 2" leveling kit to front so snow plow mount would be a proper height to connect plow. truck doesn't squat much but may add air bags just to keep it level once im hitched.Tht wouldn't really change anything would it other than keep truck pretty well level. Not sure if they would change ride much
Had the. On my single wheel sometimes it would bounce on really rough roads but never figured out if that was bags making bounce or if they actually helped with some it
Big truck big rv recommend goose neck hitch from e trailer. Would be the way I’d go
Are your counter top solid? They look nice and shiny.
Good episode. I agree with the comment below about tire inflation, lug nut torquing and tire age...maybe a different show?
Good stuff. I want to emphasis what you said: Air bags alone, WILL make things worse. They will take more weight off the front tires, not distribute the weight forward. I say this because I have friends who still believe this and it is an accident waiting to happen. Some a have a Jeep, tow a heavy trailer and added airbags to raise the rear end of the Jeep. Anyone who doesn't agree with this should do their own research on airbags for weight distribution. It is a huge safety issue.
I always appreciate your videos. Thanks a lot and keep doing them.
Awesome vid!
I call my wife on her cellphone. We speakerphone our backing up directions. Way better than pushing buttons on a hand held radio.
Any communication method is an improvement. We chose radios over the cell phone because we have camped in areas that did not have cell phone coverage. The radios always work, no matter where we are.
@camustang1966 good point.
Thanks Jared for another outstanding description of “how to”, I appreciate what you share. (BTW our sons name is Jared, good name)
Can you give a few tips on towing in the mountians, how and when use exhaust brake, if gearing down is important. reason for asking i have never towed in mountain country. I have a ram 3500 and a 337rls reflection fifth wheel. Love your channel, you give alot of helpful info.
First, slow speed, slow speed, slow speed in the mountains. Second, Gearing down is fine but at low speeds the transmission will compensate for the speed, unless you have a manual tranny. Note: Try NOT to over rev the engine. Third, use the brakes sparingly to help maintain low speed. Don't ride the brakes they can overheat and fail.
Like you said, our first trailer purchase the sales person said we would be fine but the trailer was only 5 % below the SUV's max. Tow weight. Scary trip to California 😮😮
Wonderful tips. Thanks. We have a 2016 Toyota Sequioa towing capacity is 7000LBS, tongue weight 700lbs. TT 2506S Roockwood Minilite: 5528lbs tongue weight 814lbs. We have sway issues in spite of the sway bars that you mentioned. What else can we do to prevent the sway. Thanks.
question - where are your trailer tires when you start backing up? Is there a rule of thumb? Should they be just passed the site you want to back into? 5', 10'?
I've also noticed that a lot of semi drivers prefer to not make a "blind" backup, they prefer to back into a site where they can look out their drivers window and see the trailer.
I have more concerns about tire TEMPERATURE, not pressure as driving on Hot roads like the 40 or 10 on the west coast in summer. My tires are at 110 psi cold
Nitrogen in the tire would be a great upgrade
As a RV’r and a Tire and automotive business owner I feel I need to say that Air bag system’s are not designed for trailer weight distribution, they are designed to distribute the weight load evenly across the truck so it keeps the front steering axle weight firmly placed on the ground to ensure proper control and safety. Because when the the rear wheels are pushed down, it pulls up the front and can cause a loose steering and braking issue. Also the speed rating on the tire doesn’t just mean to a certain speed but it is safe to that specific speed at its maximum load rating at its maximum air pressure.
You literally just said they aren’t for weight distribution and that they are to distribute the weight, all in the same sentence. You should delete this comment.
Good info. Do you find it easier to back up a fifth wheel vs. Travel trailer?
Always great information
For backing a trailer I prefer to think “trailer left/wheel right, trailer right/wheel left” (hands in the usual 10-2 position of course). Don’t know why but it works better for me than using the hand at 6 o’clock position.
what causes the jerking forward back kinda felt like truck surging. no sway.
Weight distribution puts more stress on drop frames which could cause extreme damage if you have a cheap trailer
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Biggest anxiety is backing into a very tight camping spot and all eyes in the campground are on you. Face it, most of these state parks were made over 50 years ago and weren’t designed to accommodate 25’ or longer travel trailers and even larger 5th wheels. One thing I did before heading out was practicing backing into spots. Had a long haul trucker give me a lot of tips
Great advice! Safe travels!!
We are making the transition from TT to fifth wheel. What is the weight of your hitch? What do you recommend? Going to be pulling a Reflection 370FLS
Equal-I-zer is 2nd only to ProPride (@ $3,400) for towing TTs!!
You mentioned that vehicle air bags "can make things worse" and then quickly moved on. Would like to hear more on why you feel that way. I understand that air bags don't help/effect towing capacaties, but they sure can make the ride more comfortable.
I'd also like to hear the reasoning behind this statement, and whether he thinks it applies to just bumper pulls or to all trailers. I use air bags while towing my 5th wheel. The scales say they've done a great job of shifting weight from the rear to the front axle.
I have been looking to upgrade the suspension on my truck and was thinking of going with timbren, then looked more into it and now thinking sumosprings. I have not pulled the trigger yet but curious why you chose timbren over sumosprings on your truck?
Another tip. After backing in to site, make sure there’s room between your slide and the utilities before unhooking.
I'm going to brainstorm you for this question Jared, does the 5th wheel weight change with a gooseneck hookup? We bought a 5th wheel converted to a gooseneck. Assuming it was factory because the previous owner was first time owner with the new RV and his truck he pulled with was a flatbed horse pulling truck. Any tips with a smooth ride with it? Our truck is accommodative for this type of hook up! Or the 5th wheel either one.
Thank you as always for info 😊
Mines doing the same thing now all the time when I stop and go and years happen seven years ago what was the final solution to fix the problem
I (73F) have a 2500 GMC Sierra and a Jayco White Hawk 28RL. Do I absolutely need a weight distribution system? They are a pain in the ass, back, legs, and arms. A total headache!! Especially if I want to unhook and drive around while I’m camping. I’ve driven without with no problem. Am I taking a risk? In a few years I plan to sell my house and buy a bigger truck and 5th wheel but the pull behind is it for now. Thanks!
Have a quick question. I have a 19 ram rebel with upgraded shocks, and rear springs. I just saw the new 2024 GRAND DESIGN REFLECTION 100 SERIES 22RK. Which is about 26’ and dry weight is around 6900lbs. My question is would that be ideal to haul it with truck.
Nice job as always
Is it possible to increase the towing capacity of a small truck? The truck in question is a 2018 Dodge Ram 1500 3.6L Bighorn truck 4WD
No, it comes out of the factory with a factory determined payload, towing capacity etc. everything in the truck was designed with certain overall capacity limits (axles, bearings, drive shaft, transmission etc).
Thank you very much Mr. Miller. I was hoping to keep from buying a new truck. Looks like I buy a smaller RV Trailer.
It comes down to upgrading your truck’s suspension, and braking system (my 2500 brakes are almost the size of a semi truck, almost LOL) and my 1500 brakes are just slightly bigger than a cars. You can upgrade the axles and tires. Then you’ll be able to tow a little more weight… The chasis on your current truck will prevent you from towing that much more… it’s cheaper to get the new truck unless you can do all that yourself. The main issue with towing is not so much “can the truck pull it?” It’s more like, will it be able to stop? 🤷🏻♂️
You said you should address the problem but a weight distribution hitch can put extra strain on the tongue and people with large travel trailers are vulnerable to bending and where do you think all this weight is going? Wouldn't you think it would take away from the payload to your travel trailer as well? if you want to go by what you preach you need to get a stronger truck or leaf springs instead of putting more stress on the travel trailers frame
great video
Great info Jared
My 2 cents about brake controllers is about adjusting them for speed. In parking lots if it grabs and jerks you; lessen the power from a high number to low. When traveling at highway speed - 55 or more, increase the numbers to better assist braking for those unexpected hard braking instances for animals, stupid drivers or rough pavement.
Practice how various postions effect your driving as described by manually applying trailer brakes to be aware how it functions. Adjusted to slow or idle speeds in parking lots will do nothing at 60 miles per hour!
Fabulous as always, Thank You
5th wheel and gooseneck are the way to go. Now, as far as sway goes on a bumper pull...if you have your weight distributed properly (visit a CAT scale and get your axle weights unloaded and loaded) you shouldn't have issues with sway.
Love the channel
Good information
Great video, and yes I agree with those dealerships. They will sell you a truck or an RV and don't know as much about RVs or Towing, as you would think. I cross the Rockies every year with my 5th wheel setup (Seattle to Michigan) and can't express how pleased I am with my setup. Just completed leg from Richfield UT to Denver CO, which is the true test of your system. What a treat for the eyes, such a gorgeous drive, highly recommend it. In summary get a diesel truck, 5th wheel (under 36ft=sweet spot), make sure the GCWR < 75%, get better rated tires (mine came with E, changed them to G), tpms/rear camera integrates nicely with my GMC Denali ultimate towing package. By the way I'm selling, if someone wants it please reach out. My info is on my channel. I'm a pro trader. Stock Market stuff
Far too often car dealerships will go by the advertised capabilities of the vehicles they're selling instead of how each individual vehicle is equipped. Those advertised numbers usually say in small print "when properly equipped". Always check those numbers and research things like payload packages before buying. A "trailer towing" package doesn't necessarily equip the vehicle with the correct ratings and capabilities for hauling or towing more than a full tank of fuel. Many trailer towing packages give you wiring and trans coolers and maybe heavy duty shocks, but that isn't going to haul the actual load.
So you have a 3500 single wheel dodge ?
Truck that your driving? Year , make & model.
I don't like any trailer hitch that's using friction bars. Sway control is only needed on the Fwy at Fwy speeds. What happens when you're driving around town going to Walmart or backing into RV site? You don't need sway control. I have Camco Recurve R6 and I can turn sway ON/OFF as needed. Far superior then using friction bars.
Is your Cummins the HO or the standard Cummins?
Biggest problem or stress is backing in tight lanes. Getting fifth wheel in the angle without swinging the truck out too far
Good stuff!
Oh yeah, don’t forget to train your spotter on how to guide you and what to look out for.
My question is should the GVWR of the trailer be under to tow vehicles GVWR?
Because our trailers dry weight is 6,140 GVWR IS 9,160. I have a 2020 f150 super crew 2.7 eco 145 wheelbase axle ratio is 3.55 GWVR IS 6,600lbs,
Short answer: I’m afraid you have a much bigger trailer than you can safely tow with that truck. I’m sorry.
Long answer:
1) Actual loaded weight of the truck AND trailer must not exceed the GCWR (gross combined weight rating) of your truck. You can look up this rating in Ford’s towing guide for your MY.
2) actual loaded weight of your truck (just the truck axles) with trailer attached, measured on a scale, must not exceed the GVWR of the truck. I recommend also checking the axle weight ratings. These will be on the vehicle placard on the door jamb.
Another way to get at #2 is to measure the weight of all passengers, cargo, trailer hitch and trailer tongue weight. This total must not be more than the truck’s payload, also on the vehicle placard.
@@shiftfocus1 I probably figured this much but General Rv said it was ok. I also have the weight distribution hitch
@@matthewaaron664 It's so frustrating to read stories like this, where dealers are more interested in their commission than your safety. It's rampant in the RV business. Caveat emptor.
Which is easier to pull?
I prefer the 5th wheel but with a good hitch on the travel trailer it bridges that gap.
What ram do you have 2500 or 3500 ?
I am having a hard time finding info on porpoising and what I need to do to ensure I'm towing properly. I have a new 2024 GMC 2500 HD Denali Ultimate. My understanding is that it's equivalent to a one ton since it has the towing package. I haul a Venture Touring bumper pull with a hitch weight of 1250 lbs. with a total of 9000 lbs. My weight distribution hitch is rated for 1400/14000. I had some porpoising on my last trip. Help someone??
For a pull type trailer a ProPride hitch is the BEST. And no I do not work for ProPride.
Excellent information. No matter your equipment quality, there’s nothing to compensate for bad roads.
Towing a 25’ TT and I always over cut my trailer when backing up. It’s so frustrating.
In trucking terms it's called cut and chase, cut and chase. Keep in mind the shorter the trailer the quicker the response from the steering wheel. Go slow when backing up also looking in your mirrors turn the wheel in the direction that the rear of the trailer is going and that will correct the swing.