Mazda CX-9 Spark Plug Replacement 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- How to replace spark plugs on a 2016 2017 2018 Mazda CX-9.
Please note: I'm not a professional. I'm just sharing what I did to change the spark plugs on my 2016 Mazda CX-9 Signature at 41,000 miles, as I couldn't find any other videos on the 2016-18 series CX-9.
To speed up the video just use the UA-cam Speed Settings.
What you need for the job:
8mm and 10mm sockets and 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet
14mm thin-walled socket for spark plug removal/install
4 Mazda PY8V-18-110 spark plugs - cost me $98 delivered from an online Mazda distributor. Note there doesn't appear to be an equivalent NGK at this time.
Anti-seize lubricant - e.g. Permatex 81343 1-oz tube
Torque wrench: Tighten spark plugs 12-15 lb-ft.
Time: Took me 45 minutes of actual work.
Dealer quote to do the work: $225-$250 including spark plugs plus other charges (shop fees, taxes, etc).
Hope this helps. Please leave a thumbs-up if you felt this was helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, as a side note I would put a small dab of dielectric grease on the coil pack tip after installing the new spark plug I would also blow the dirt and dust out of the spark plug port before you remove the old spark plug. Thanks again!
good ideas, thank you Eric!
Great video thanks for posting it hard to believe that there’s anything wrong with those plugs at 40,000 miles crazy
Thank you for your video! I did changed my spark plugs today in 110000KM. Got 4 of them as 170 CAD(so expensive in Canada!)
Well done Wenbin! bttw I'm originally from Canada.
I’ve watched this video before each change on my CX9. Appreciate the help and thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the kind feedback Brian, appreciated.
I avoided a headache because of this video THANKS. I have an 18 and was getting some shaking at idle and loss of power when accelerating. I'm at 38k and the manual has this repair as scheduled maintenance at 40k. I paid like $30/each OEM from the dealer. There might be an NGK equivalent for about $20/each as per advance auto website but decided to go OEM for peace of mind.
That's great to hear Juan! Glad you did it yourself.
Great job you made it look easy I thought so too that plugs didn't have to be changed so soon but maybe Mazdas do
NBK 90288 is the number to search at the parts stores. Sometimes I can get them sometimes they can’t but you save a ton of money over the Mazda plugs.
Thanks Matthew!
Andrew Silver I just picked mine up today. 21.99 each NGK. From O’Reilly’s auto parts
Not 90288 are 12.80 US for each plug and they are Iridium plugs.
Thanks for the video, doing mine momentarily-2016 with 85,000 miles.
Nice video. I'm planning on doing this soon. Though I don't use torque wrench when tightening spark plugs. Never needed to before. The ngk sparkplugs I got are part 90288
Thanks for posting this video.
Regarding torque, I have the NGK-packaged plugs. The box has a drawing that shows, once the crush-washer contacts the block, the plugs should be tightened by 1/16 a turn , then another 1/2 a turn (if I'm interpreting it correctly). The drawing also shows that the plugs should be threaded by hand initially, but given how deep they are, I assume that just means with a socket and extension, but without the extra leverage of a ratchet.
By the way, love the family interaction. Good stuff.
Patrick that's great - thanks for sharing this!
I used the same plugs. I set my torque wrench to 19 ft-lbs (spec listed on NGK's web site is for (18.6 21 ft-lbs), and I'd say that is in the ballpark. Once the washer was against the block, I'd say my torque wrench went another 3/8's to 1/2 turn typical.
Just finished doing this. Lost one of the damn bolts (the one that's underneath the hose on the right side of the bracket that needs to be unbolted). It slipped and fell behind the engine. Stuck in there somewhere, probably never to be seen again. I recommend stuffing a rag or shop towel behind where the bolt attaches to make sure this doesn't happen to anyone else. FYI, my plugs had 70k miles on them, and they were in really good shape - I would have felt just fine running them to 100k, but since I went through all the trouble to do this... I used the NGK 90288 plugs, which are same as OEM and are meant to be torqued to 18.6-21 ft-lbs according to their web site.
great advice, thanks for sharing this. I'll be trying the NGKs next.
Hi, am looking to buy a used cx9 2016 or newer. Any reliability issue and any tips to look out for? If given a choice, would you still buy a CX9? Thks
Well, we've had it now for 3+ years and 60,000 miles. In general I'd say yes. It's my wife's car but everytime I drive it I remark how it really is the best handling 3-row SUV I've driven. I've had only 2 issues: fuel pump and rear right shock - both replaced under warranty. I use only 87 octane fuel and the power/torque is good up to around 4000 rpm then it tapers off. I use the sport mode when I drive to keep the turbo spooled up and it's more responsive. I used premium when we take it on a trip and it's loaded. The interior is smaller compared to other 3-row SUVs. But we only use the 3rd row on rare occasions - so it's mostly folded down. If you plan to use it as a 7-passenger regularly, you probably should look at the Tellulride or Pallisade. The AWD system is supposed to be great, but I'm not so impressed. It's FWD biased, and when you're stuck on snow/ice, it doesn't seem to spin the wheels that need to be spun, like a Subaru. I did some of the AIO mazdatweaks.com software updates so I can use the touchscreen while driving and some other features. I haven't added the Car Play /Android Auto upgrade, but may do that one day. The interior is nice and seems to be holding up after 60k miles. Overall I'm pleased with it for the handling, which is important to me, the price we paid and for our use situation. But like I said if you're regularly needing a 7 passenger vehicle, you may want to look at some of the newer options on the market. Alternatively, a used 2016-19 is probably a great deal now.
I had mine for 3 years almost 100,000 miles, it has been awesome, no problems mechanically, now cosmetically, the paint in the wheels is peeling off and the right quarter panel developed a stress crack, I don't know why but I'm past the warranty so nothing I can do, I have done the oil changes myself using synthetic oil only, I use 87 octane gas and is still plenty responsive and great handling I have up to this point only replaced brakes, tires, oil and filter only, now before the Mazda I had a Kia Sorento, it was a good vehicle also a little more comfortable and a little better equipped than the Mazda (I have the grand touring), but the CX9 has better response, handling and fuel economy.
@@MrFlores518 very nice! I'm curious about using synthetic oil - the manual says to use conventional oil for CX-9 with the turbo so that's what I've been using. However on my Mazda3 (no turbo) it says to use synthetic. Go figure...
Did u find one? What do u think of it any regrets??🧘🏾♀️🌻🧘🏾♀️
@@takeshiadavis opted not to change vehicle, so can say.
Thanks for the insightful upload but just would like to add please please use full synthetic oil in this motor and almost every other new car for that matter. Cheers.
The manual for the US CX-9 (2016) indicates conventional oil, but I've heard other countries they use synthetic - so I'm torn on what to do... Thanks!
I work for a mazda dealer and we use conventional oil in our turbo cx-9's.
@@DrifterDavid thanks for confirming this, appreciated.
@@andrewsilver the manual doesn't specify conventional or synthetic oil, only that it meets certain certifications. Anything that meets those certs is sufficient to adhere to warranty requirements. Synthetic oil is generally recommended for turbo engines because they handle extreme heat better than conventional oil (itstillruns.com/synthetic-oil-better-turbocharged-engines-5868409.html). With the price difference between a good synthetic like Pennzoil UP or Castrol Edge (black bottle) compared to a conventional oil being so minimal, most people opt for synthetic just for that extra peace of mind.
thanks for the video. do you notice the fuel efficient different after replacing those spark plugs?
I noticed no difference after installing the new spark plugs. And the old ones looked fine to me. So not sure it was really needed at such a short interval - but that's just my thought...
@@andrewsilver thank you. I also has 2016 cx9. but mine is way overdue at 107000km now. the average fuel consumption jump from 9.2l/100km to 11.2l/km. usually it caused by dirty air filter but I changed it and I am thinking because of spark plugs.
@@calvint3419 oh yes, you need to change them. Let us know if you see improvement please.
this is so f@*King awesome!!!!!! kudos for making this awesome video!!! thumbs up for sure
thanks for the vote of confidence!
Just a note: the OEM plugs are the same as NGK 90288, which can be purchased at RockAuto for $14 each. Also, NGK plugs do not require anti-seize compound due to the plating they use. They are installed dry at the factory. I'm sure there will be those who don't believe me, so just go read about from NGK directly.
Actually, I'll help you. From NGK's web site:
"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."
Great info Kevin, thanks for sharing!
Thanks dude, been looking for a half decent video. I figured it would be relatively straight forward, but ya never know with cars in general. Only thing i would recommend is i didnt hear you talk about whether or not you disconnected the battery prior to install. As you are unduing electrical stuff. Plus you should do the air filter. :)
Oh, yeah, and its pretty insane that NGK hasnt released cheaper plugs for this, 22 bucks a plug from OEM manufacturers is ridiculous. -_-
Yup, I did an Cabin Air Filter change video, next I'll do an engine air filter video. I did not disconnect the battery. And yes the plugs are too expensive - that was the lowest cost I could find. Hopefully an NGK will come out soon. Thanks.
Definitely a great video. Definitely going to save me money as opposed to take it to Mazda for service. They want $125 for an oil change, uh NO, lol
Man I've been doing my own oil changes since I got my 18 brand new. It's super easy and saves a few bucks.
Filter $8 from dealer
Oil $30 Walmart
jackup it up and do the job in about 30 min
Why didn’t you check the gap. Or were they preset. ???
Preset
Andrew, what is the spark plug torque spec? Thank you!
I don't have the CX9 manual, but the manual for my Mazda 3 also with the 2.5l engine but no turbo says 15-20 N·m {1.6-2.0 kgf·m, 12-14 ft·lbf. I did around 12 ft lbs.
How often do they need to be replaced. Thanks
Manual says to replace the spark plugs at 40,000 miles - but when I changed them they seemed fine to me.
Thanks for the video and all but what setting did you put the ratchet on in 5:24?
Hi, thanks for your message. In the description I wrote: Torque wrench: Tighten spark plugs 12-15 lb-ft.
How much is dealership charging for this job, does anyone know?
$260 in FL
$386 in Texas
$475 in California
in Bay Area, the dealer ask me $550 to do it. Auto repair shop around $200
$299 in middle TN
Wow! I had no idea you had to change the plugs so often. 40,000 miles seems crazy. My current Mazda 6 3.7L has a 100,000 mile interval and they came out clean and the gap wasn't crazy bad. I've been looking to get a new Mazda with the 2.5L Turbo. I wonder why the plugs wear so quickly on a newer engine, you would think it would be longer. At least, these look fairly easy to change compared to my V6 back plugs.
Yes, they seem to recommend 40,000 mile interval for the Turbo 2.5L. But the old plugs looked fine to me when I changed them out.
My 2017 has 104k miles so I figure it's time to change them though I'm not getting any engine lights or indication they need replacing just felt at 100k I might as well change them
The right ignition coil doesn't want to seat down any ideas?
I'm not sure what to do - maybe someone else will have an idea and can respond. Please keep us posted if you figure it out.
Did you gap the spark plug?
No, I believe most spark plugs today come pre-gapped. Years ago on older model vehicles I did, but not anymore. If others suggest otherwise, please jump in.
Anyone know the gapping measurement? I can’t find it no where not even the dealer knows! I dropped one on the ground and it got jacked up I need to regap
If iridium plugs they are pre-gapped.
Eric B. Yeah almost all current years all come pregapped but it would be nice to know the actual gapping.
Iridium plugs are NOT meant to be gapped and usually they will have that written on the box.
Thank you for the video! What did you torque the spark plugs to? Cant find it in my manual?
I couldn't find it either. I do them at 8-10 lb-ft as on my Mazda3. If someone finds the actual torque spec for the 2016+ CX-9, please post it. Thanks.
That sounds about right. Thank you! I'll be doing this soon.
Helpful video, thanks )
Thank you Denis.
4th ignition coil won't go in i don't know what to do I have been trying for 3 hours to push in its place
Salih did you figure it out? What was the issue? Thanks.
@@andrewsilver Yes I did it after several hours.. You know the 4th coil is under some hoses. because of the hoses I took it out angled. when i tried to place it, it won't seat in because I was pushing at an angle. then I figured the problem and hold the hoses firmly out of the way then I pushed the coil fully straight then it seated. thank you so much for the response and thank you for the video I appreciated.
Muchas gracias...
Torque?
I assume these are iridium tipped plugs. No? They should be good for 100,000 miles at least if you use good gas and periodic injector cleaner in your gas tank.
I'm not sure if they're iridium tipped, I used the OEM plugs. the recommended interval is 40000 miles, but they looked pretty clean to me...
Andrew, Iridium spark plugs a expensive and thus they would be marked "Iridium". But if not then the very small diameter center electrode will tell you that it is an Iridium plug.
When Denso first put these plugs on the market years ago I found you could actually FEEL the extra power they created. A few years later they began to ge OEM plugs as manufacturers saw the mileage improvements and how inexpensive it was to get them with just a better spark plug.
@@ericb.4358 Thanks Eric. The OEM plugs I do not believe are iridium tipped and at the time I went to buy new plugs, there was no information for an alternative to the OEM plugs. On other Mazdas, like my Mazda 3, there are known alternatives that can be substituted for OEM such as from NGK directly, so you can choose if you want standard, iridium tipped, etc. However for the CX-9 at the time I did this video, there were no aftermarket plugs available and I had to buy the OEMS at a high price. Disappointing... but hopefully now there are lower cost alternatives and alternative plugs that are iridium tipped etc. If anyone knows of aftermarket alternative plugs that can be used, please post for all, thanks!
I got my 18 brand new and i had to change them at around 38k. Rough idle at a red light and loss of power for me. I have never pout anything other than 93 octane and the plugs were shot when I removed them. I guess it depends on driving conditions.
@@juanr4913 I suggest using 89, not 93. The reason your plugs were shot was because the octane level that you were using effects the combustion timing.
93 octane burns slower than say 89 or 90. The higher the octane, the less flammable the fuel is, thus effecting how quickly it ignites and how long it burns. Continuously using 93 in your CX-9 will only cause it to run less efficiently, meaning performance loss and eventually unnecessary damage like clogged O2 sensor, ruining your converter, spark plugs shot, etc....
Remember, higher octane fuel does NOT make your car/truck go any faster or perform any better! Smaller engines ( + modifieds) are designed to operate on higher octane fuel like 93. (Motorcycles, ATVs, Lawn Equipment, modified sport cars, etc) Smaller, high-compression engines burn fuel differently from your average road vehicle. CX-9s run most efficiently on 89 octane. (Unless you live in the rockies or some other high elevation area where theres less oxygen, the gas stations sell different levels of octane anyway)
So many people make the mistake of using octane levels that are not optimized for their engine, all because they think their engine will perform better. Its the exact opposite.
If you want to use a better fuel than unleaded 89, find a gas station that sells non ethanol 89 or 90. It's expensive, but it burns much cleaner, creating less engine gunk and a cleaner exhaust system! Good luck Juan 😀
@andrew did you find any upgraded spark plugs? Or just OEM?
So far I haven't found any aftermarket plugs. If anyone finds them, please post so others can get them, thanks.
Per requests, I've added a new video on how to change the engine Air Filter. ua-cam.com/video/ubcxtULZ67U/v-deo.html
I changed mine at 100000 kilometers intervals, 2 times, now at 200k kms. That's 60k miles and 120k miles. No problems whatsoever.
So you have over 200,000 km / 120,000 miles - I've been a little worried about the turbo engine long term so that is great to hear... Thanks for sharing.
@@andrewsilver Just turned 200.000km, the only thing that Mazda changed in these kms was a wheel bearing. They said it had some play, but I didn't hear or feel anything. I modified the driver seat to have a better driving position. It was killing my back.
@@misu110382 at how many miles did you change your brake pads? Did you do it yourself? Difficult to do? And around how much did it cost. Thanks.
@@andrewsilver I still have the original brake disks and pads, I drive mostly out of town on radar cruise control, they're probably 50-60% worn.
@@misu110382 wow, great to hear! thanks.
Why does Mazda recommend to change them so early? Almost all other auto makers spark plugs are good for 100,000 mi. Seems like a huge wast of money to me.
I don't know why the interval is so short at only 40,000 miles - but that's what is required per the service manual. I believe it has to do with the fact that the engine on the current generation CX-9 is a turbo, which btw requires regular oil, not synthetic like on my Mazda 3's that are normally aspirated.
I should point out that the spark plugs were pretty clean, in my opinion, when I took them out at 40,000 miles - so my guess is you could probably go another 10-20k - but I'm not recommending that - it's just an observation.
@@andrewsilver Agree that plug interval most likely has something to do with the turbo, but don't agree with the comment that conventional oil is required on this vehicle. Synthetic oil is higher in quality with fewer impurities than conventional oil. Many auto manufacturers require synthetic oil for their turbo applications.
Andrew Silver digressing from the spark plugs. Do you you regular oil? I’ve always used synthetic in mine as I can’t see a regular oil holding up to direct injection and turbo charging for 7,500 miles.
@@slscamg the Mazda dealership I go to says they always put full synthetic on the CX-9 (not blend) and that's what they put when I go there (they even gave me a rebate form to fill up and that's how I saw that it's the Castrol full synth). I've since changed the oil myself each 7.5k and using full synth. Seems fine.
Can you post engine filter change video!!
Hi Jry, do you want engine oil filter or air filter? I can probably do the air filter, but I just did an oil change so it will be a while.
@@andrewsilver you can do the engine air filter !
how to change engine cooler or transmission oil!
I am getting a dizzy just watching this video.
yea, sorry about that. Next video I won't put the camera on my head. Getting ready to do front brakes next.