Thanks, George! Same situation here. Bushings worn, was quoted nearly £2,000 to replace both arms. Just bought a new set of Meyle bushings for about £100. Just need to get the arms off and find a way to press out the bushings. Can't say I'm looking forward to that, but got to give it a go.
Hi George, You Don't need to put car on Ramp to Tightened Poly Bushing Bolts. because center metal sleeve NOT sealed like original bushing. They easy to move inside bushing even fully tight. only sleeve solid stick to the Arm which is moving up and down. and sleeve easy moving inside Poly bush without any hassle. That is the good thing with Poly Bushing. I want to Get those Bushing for my car as well when I am needed. Good video George... :)
Defo the way to go about it. I did the same with my e60. There was no way I was forking out for new lower trailing arms when poly bushes fix the problem for far less money and you get better handling.
Just put my 535d (E60) through mot I’m defo going to sort polly bushing the rear arms . It failed on rear tyres completely mint but have very fine crack close to rim on inner tyre, in all my years working on cars I’ve never seen them like that . Going check when they come off ordered new tyres or it would have passed . Great video George thanks ! 👍🏻😉
Loving your videos. Most excellent. I've just bought a 2006 E91. Poly-bushes are defo the way to go. I poly-bushed (Powerflex) the wishbones on a 2.5td Omega (BMW X25DT motor). Before poly-bushing it was new wishbones every year or so. After poly-bushing, the bushes were still like new two years later. No sign of wear at all. One thing I would mention, it's not necessary to torque down the nuts with weight of the car on the wheels, as the poly bushes rotate on a fixed axis (i.e the steel insert and bolt).
I had an MOT fail because of this rear lower arm bushes. The garage gave me a £800 quote to change the whole arm on the passenger side only. There is no aftermarket lower arm and the garages not bothering changing the bushes. I bought a bushey removal tool from Tesam Poland S0001390 and i'll do the job myself (£77 incl. shipping costs) + lemforder bushes from autodoc. Will do both sides. Thanks for this video George.
Hole saw bit, m6 bolt and socket. Few penny washers. Movement normal but sounds dry. Suspension moves up and down changing distance between hub and diff. Assume there’s no vibration under power?
George the clunk from the driveshaft is suggestive that both inner and outer may lack grease. Repacking may cure it but that is a whole lot of play so I'd go for replacement personally. Be interesting for o hear if the cars NVH levels have changed since you installed the black series bushes in the arms, it's only a couple bushes but it'll all add up to make the car loud if you keep going.
When I first bought my 520d E60 2007 in 2016 and obviously I had no clue about this car, I had a problem with the vacuum solenoid pump (is located in front of the EGR cooler) which caused loads of trouble (black smoke, no power, etc) so I went to a BMW garage and they wanted to charge me £880 (6 hours of labor @146.60/hour) JUST TO CHECK what is wrong with the car, the parts obviously being another expense, so I was looking at £1000+, so I declined their "kind" offer. That was the time when I started to learn about the car and its common issues and I've learned about the solenoid pump causing the issues I had. Bought a cable with £8, a free version of ISTA (which pointed to the solenoid pump), a used solenoid on eBay with £18, took me 10 minutes to change it (two bolts and a connector to remove and put back) then the car was back on the road without any other issues. So, all in all, £26 plus 10 minutes of labor. Since then I only went to BMW to have a free coffee if my car was recalled. :)
good job, but as far as i know you font need to torque bolts at ride height wherever poly bushes are used because the inner metal core can rotate freely.
Well done george, i once tried to press out that equivalent bush on a merc slk and got nowhere. I went to a local garage with the part and asked them to take it out, he took one look at it and said, eh thats merc, so no chance. Had to buy the control arm complete with the bushes. Why did u not put some grease on the outside of the rubber bush before installing it, should u not do that ??
A lot of old school mechanics use to put fair liquid on the Bush to get them in easy but now when I think about it it's a crazy thing to do because it will perish the Bush
See if you can get actual bearings or rose joints for the mounts! The center mount on my GTV6 was changed from a rubber bushing to a rose joint. (Unfortunately it went from $10 for parts to $270 but given how much it gets driven it will last the rest of my life whereas the rubber one would dry rot over time and fail that way.)
@@GeorgeAusters I too have repaired my own e90 330d. Lots of work during this COVID19 lock down: Auxiliary Pump heater refurbished Glow plugs control modules replace Peru 6x glow plugs replaced bosch Inlet/engine breather Valve replaced meyer Swirl flaps removed and blanked Egr valve refurbished Abs pump repaired Brake system flushed with bmw dot4 Harmonic balancer corteco Oem bmw Idler pulley ina Tensioner pulley ina Water pump bmw Main thermostat bmw Egr thermostat bmw Egr o ring bmw Egr cooler service dpf cleaning solutions Dayco serpentine belt System coolant changed/bleeding bmw K&N filter Just imagine Bmw workshop cost??? Probably £6k+
Been using your videos to help rebuild my car. I've just normal Meyle bushes in and my wishbones were VERY tight getting them back in. Were they tight going back in with the powerflex bushes?
Its videos like this that make me so glad that I have the skill to fix components on my own car, especially since I own a 2004 cooper S, those W11 engines love to leak oil 🤣🤣, anyways nice work George 👍👍👍
I had same "play" on both my axles. Unfortunately when i was changing bearing left back i kinda destroyed my cv joint axle in frustration to get it back. So I ordered I new one "spidan" and it have same play so nothing to worry bout. Sure the video is old but maybe it will help someone who's worried :)
I Need some advice mate, I’ve got an E92 MSports coupe and it’s a little concerning the way it changes in to third gear ⚙️ if I accelerate fast ish from 0mph to 30mph it seems to put it in third gear in smoothly, it only thumps going up hill or if I accelerate slowly from 0mph to 30mph I don’t think it’s the transmission, ive re set the transmission because I have the adaptive one, and it’s changes more smoothly but it’s still not like the other gears that are smooth so could it be the prop shaft or something else? Cars got 60,000miles. it drives fine but sometimes when it thumps from second to third it doesn’t sound mechanically sympathetic
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for replying George. I got mine out eventually. I had to two-hand wield a lump hammer with all my might while lying on my side and swearing a lot to get it to budge.
this big play in the driveshafts is normal and it can not be otherwise...you must be wary if they have play in turning...bmw have very strong driveshafts but the differentials are not so much..ive done full repair on my e36 LSD because of this and it was worn in the crown and the pinion due to drifts and burnouts ;) there was a missing tooth too...the actual play is caused by worn bearing on the pinion or worn tooths..i think the most important thing is to catch it in time and change the bearings because the pinion bearing is the thing that keeps everything tight and in the right possition...im happy to drive the car more than 5000km after and it feels great...ive managed to find the exact same bearings that was for the initial assembly...TIMKEN made in France...these were in my diff and the same are now in but new.
It is because of metal fatigue. People like only changing the bushes, and reusing old arms, untill one day they break. I would get the new quality aftermarket arms. And never the polyurethane nonsense. You might as well weld the arms to the bolts...
The only negative i have met about poly Bushes is that sometimes they squeaking noises. That's why i use Super Lube Polyurethane Bushing & Chassis Grease and it helps a lot in this case.
@@GeorgeAusters Nope, i said it overall about poly bushes. For example, now i am going to install adjustable camber arms on my car, which have Bar Rod Ends with poly bushings and i am going to use that grease. We had done exactly the same job, with my friends car and after using grease the noise has gone. The bushes i am speaking now are not from powerflex, they are from speedwaymotors shop USA.
My Toyota failed its MOT last year on rusty fuel filler pipe well it was that bad it was leaking slightly tbh and I could not get one on eBay or aftermarket anywhere so off to Toyota I went and it was £180 for a small piece of metal pipe 🤦🏻♂️
Haha calliper brackets are steel, these arms are all aluminium so you only have to deal with a bit of corrosion, no rust. Get yourself an impact wrench mate👍🏻
Hi George just a suggestion, you need to title this video better so anyone can find it, i have been trying to find this for ages as i plan on doing my RTABS had to scroll through your video list, anyone youtubing e60 rear trailing arms bushes won't see this video due to the title, just thought I'd mention it mate.
I put diesel in my 118D, would not start the next day, then it dawned on me. Rung a company up, they wanted £200 to come out, drain tank, flush fuel lines etc. So I broke off some hosepipe. Sucked the petrol out. Then took went in under the back seats and sucked the rest out via the fuel pump hole. Put £25 of diesel in and it started within a minute and now goes fine. no smoke, nadda. There are tons of people out there who jobs based on how much they think they can exploit you. learn to do stuff yourself if possible. Get the right tools, get some basic mechanical knowledge and you will be surprised what you can do with guides and youtube videos.
Well done, George! This should be my next assignment. P.S.: I want to thank you for the most of your previous videos which saved me from spending thousand of pounds for the mechanics. I recently changed the timing chain, crankshaft seal, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, gearbox oil and a few others after watching your videos and learning how to do it properly. I would like to ask a quick question, if you don't mind. After changing the timing chain, the car started fine,, I took it for a 500 miles and I had two errors on the scanner (P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit and 3E90 Crankshaft RPM - No Signal). which I never had before then the engine refused to start. You think is the reluctor (or reductor) wheel between the crankshaft oil ring and the flywheel or the crankshaft sensor at fault? I removed the sensor and checked with a multimeter and there is nothing wrong with it.
@@GeorgeAusters I used Carista app on my phone which is a light version of ISTA. The errors probably refers to the crankshaft sensor not reading the RPM's, but I'm unsure if is the reluctor, the sensor or both. I ordered a new reluctor and I have to remove the engine again in order to change it. Do you know if there's a special procedure of fitting that reluctor back there? I forgot to mention I have almost the same car you have, is a dark grey 520d E60 57 reg, 130 KW, 177 HP with a N47D20A engine. Thank you again for your patience to explain, create, edit and upload those life saving videos. You're a gem!
Good job done, did you do the Rose bushes as well whilst the arms were out? Also, my X5 drive shafts are tight with no movement, my wife's 3 series has some play but nothing like yours.
Bmw also checked my car over when it was in for a recall,they told me the abs rings were damaged which I knew they were.So they said it would be €1200 or something around that for 2 shafts.i said thanks but il think about it 😂.i fitted 2 abs rings that cost me €10 and 2 hrs of my own labour.
Pollybushes are good choice but do be aware that greese in them does tend to escape over time and then u will be gettin squeeky noises from them until u greese them again
Recall was regarding the main positive cable. I’d rather lose a slight bit of comfort for better durability and handling. I will be keeping stock suspension👍🏻
George Austers I am fairly certain I’ve seen some paperwork to say mines been done. Fair enough mines a daily so it’s pretty much for comfort for me I have a Corrado and Ibiza cupra for when I feel like a harsher drive 😂
You can change all of your control arms for genuine BMW M3 parts from the E92/93 etc search up the parts from a company called TRW, they make the genuine BMW parts and grind off the M badge when they send them out directly or leave the badges on for BMW the sell, you can get all 8 arms two for each wheel for less than £500 Parts are call TRW JTC followed by a number, so here they are JTC1428 - track control upper left rear JTC1429 - track control upper right rear JTC1430 - upper left front JTC1431 - upper right front Front JTC1423 and 24 - front tension struts JTC1426 and 27 - front LCAs I know this after I bought them and fitted them myself to my own car nice upgrade M3 parts for relatively cheap
Simon Muhr the parts are built differently they have more torsion in the parts and they have bearings instead of bushings, and they are made of aluminium so they are lightweight, I don’t know exactly but there’s a huge research thread on the 1addicts page about it where engineers have stripped and tested all the parts individually check it out
Touch wood. I dont need to deal with the rear. Ive done my fronts. My gosh it was a pain in the ass job. Had to change my whole front between 95k to 102k Upper mount Shocks Drop links Track rod Control arms....
This guy is disingenuous, or this video is really really old. There has not been a recall on the E60 since the battery cables in boot. Further more BMW don't touch old cars period!!!!!!!!! Fact. So either really old vid posted ten months ago but some eleven years old or guys not being honest.
?? I've had a recall in the last 12 months to check the battery cable on my E60. Very strange as the car had the same recall and updated plastic bits with silicone grease 7yrs ago from BMW.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks, George! Same situation here. Bushings worn, was quoted nearly £2,000 to replace both arms. Just bought a new set of Meyle bushings for about £100. Just need to get the arms off and find a way to press out the bushings. Can't say I'm looking forward to that, but got to give it a go.
Drive Shaft Movement side to side is normal George. Nothing to worry.
Hi George, You Don't need to put car on Ramp to Tightened Poly Bushing Bolts. because center metal sleeve NOT sealed like original bushing. They easy to move inside bushing even fully tight. only sleeve solid stick to the Arm which is moving up and down. and sleeve easy moving inside Poly bush without any hassle. That is the good thing with Poly Bushing. I want to Get those Bushing for my car as well when I am needed. Good video George... :)
Defo the way to go about it. I did the same with my e60. There was no way I was forking out for new lower trailing arms when poly bushes fix the problem for far less money and you get better handling.
Just put my 535d (E60) through mot I’m defo going to sort polly bushing the rear arms . It failed on rear tyres completely mint but have very fine crack close to rim on inner tyre, in all my years working on cars I’ve never seen them like that . Going check when they come off ordered new tyres or it would have passed . Great video George thanks ! 👍🏻😉
Loving your videos. Most excellent. I've just bought a 2006 E91. Poly-bushes are defo the way to go. I poly-bushed (Powerflex) the wishbones on a 2.5td Omega (BMW X25DT motor). Before poly-bushing it was new wishbones every year or so. After poly-bushing, the bushes were still like new two years later. No sign of wear at all. One thing I would mention, it's not necessary to torque down the nuts with weight of the car on the wheels, as the poly bushes rotate on a fixed axis (i.e the steel insert and bolt).
I had an MOT fail because of this rear lower arm bushes. The garage gave me a £800 quote to change the whole arm on the passenger side only. There is no aftermarket lower arm and the garages not bothering changing the bushes. I bought a bushey removal tool from Tesam Poland S0001390 and i'll do the job myself (£77 incl. shipping costs) + lemforder bushes from autodoc. Will do both sides. Thanks for this video George.
Welcome my man!
Great comment im in the same boat. Found the website and product you mentioned. Did you manage to change them?
Hole saw bit, m6 bolt and socket. Few penny washers. Movement normal but sounds dry. Suspension moves up and down changing distance between hub and diff. Assume there’s no vibration under power?
M6, M8 or whatever bolt you have handy, whatever works for you 😃👍
George the clunk from the driveshaft is suggestive that both inner and outer may lack grease. Repacking may cure it but that is a whole lot of play so I'd go for replacement personally. Be interesting for o hear if the cars NVH levels have changed since you installed the black series bushes in the arms, it's only a couple bushes but it'll all add up to make the car loud if you keep going.
Of course there should be that much drive shaft movement, it compensates for the suspension movement.
What do you suggest if the bolt the controls the rear camber on that control arm is seized? I was just told this by belle tire while getting alignment
When I first bought my 520d E60 2007 in 2016 and obviously I had no clue about this car, I had a problem with the vacuum solenoid pump (is located in front of the EGR cooler) which caused loads of trouble (black smoke, no power, etc) so I went to a BMW garage and they wanted to charge me £880 (6 hours of labor @146.60/hour) JUST TO CHECK what is wrong with the car, the parts obviously being another expense, so I was looking at £1000+, so I declined their "kind" offer.
That was the time when I started to learn about the car and its common issues and I've learned about the solenoid pump causing the issues I had. Bought a cable with £8, a free version of ISTA (which pointed to the solenoid pump), a used solenoid on eBay with £18, took me 10 minutes to change it (two bolts and a connector to remove and put back) then the car was back on the road without any other issues. So, all in all, £26 plus 10 minutes of labor. Since then I only went to BMW to have a free coffee if my car was recalled. :)
They’re not called “Stealerships” for nothing 😉
great video! question: does anyone know the torque spec for the trailing arm to the subframe?
good job, but as far as i know you font need to torque bolts at ride height wherever poly bushes are used because the inner metal core can rotate freely.
Yes you're correct!
Don't?
@@johnyp2967 yes
Well done george, i once tried to press out that equivalent bush on a merc slk and got nowhere. I went to a local garage with the part and asked them to take it out, he took one look at it and said, eh thats merc, so no chance. Had to buy the control arm complete with the bushes.
Why did u not put some grease on the outside of the rubber bush before installing it, should u not do that ??
A lot of old school mechanics use to put fair liquid on the Bush to get them in easy but now when I think about it it's a crazy thing to do because it will perish the Bush
See if you can get actual bearings or rose joints for the mounts! The center mount on my GTV6 was changed from a rubber bushing to a rose joint. (Unfortunately it went from $10 for parts to $270 but given how much it gets driven it will last the rest of my life whereas the rubber one would dry rot over time and fail that way.)
Excellent work, 😊. £1500 better in your pocket than BMW dealership.
Yep 👌🏼
@@GeorgeAusters I too have repaired my own e90 330d. Lots of work during this COVID19 lock down:
Auxiliary Pump heater refurbished
Glow plugs control modules replace Peru
6x glow plugs replaced bosch
Inlet/engine breather Valve replaced meyer
Swirl flaps removed and blanked
Egr valve refurbished
Abs pump repaired
Brake system flushed with bmw dot4
Harmonic balancer corteco Oem bmw
Idler pulley ina
Tensioner pulley ina
Water pump bmw
Main thermostat bmw
Egr thermostat bmw
Egr o ring bmw
Egr cooler service dpf cleaning solutions
Dayco serpentine belt
System coolant changed/bleeding bmw
K&N filter
Just imagine Bmw workshop cost??? Probably £6k+
At 17:00 I noticed your subframe is snapped where the concentric bolt comes through and the nut is. Mine has snapped at the exact same place.
It's not snapped
@@GeorgeAusters the guide on the right side is missing isn’t it? Where the washer sits in?
Nope
@@GeorgeAusters my mistake. There was a part where it did look snapped but I was wrong.
If Powerflex packed their bushes in a plain bag they would cost 30% less.
Been using your videos to help rebuild my car. I've just normal Meyle bushes in and my wishbones were VERY tight getting them back in. Were they tight going back in with the powerflex bushes?
You make it look so easy mate.
Its videos like this that make me so glad that I have the skill to fix components on my own car, especially since I own a 2004 cooper S, those W11 engines love to leak oil 🤣🤣, anyways nice work George 👍👍👍
Haha definitely! & Cheers mate👍🏻
Great work George, keep it up!
Cheers mate👊🏻
I had same "play" on both my axles. Unfortunately when i was changing bearing left back i kinda destroyed my cv joint axle in frustration to get it back. So I ordered I new one "spidan" and it have same play so nothing to worry bout. Sure the video is old but maybe it will help someone who's worried :)
I Need some advice mate, I’ve got an E92 MSports coupe and it’s a little concerning the way it changes in to third gear ⚙️ if I accelerate fast ish from 0mph to 30mph it seems to put it in third gear in smoothly, it only thumps going up hill or if I accelerate slowly from 0mph to 30mph I don’t think it’s the transmission, ive re set the transmission because I have the adaptive one, and it’s changes more smoothly but it’s still not like the other gears that are smooth so could it be the prop shaft or something else? Cars got 60,000miles. it drives fine but sometimes when it thumps from second to third it doesn’t sound mechanically sympathetic
Dont know if its normal but presumably BMW would have pointed it out if they thought it was a problem? Good video thanks.
How did you get the eccentric bolt out, that bit wasn't shown. I've got the nut off mine but can't get the bolt out.
Tap it out
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks for replying George. I got mine out eventually. I had to two-hand wield a lump hammer with all my might while lying on my side and swearing a lot to get it to budge.
this big play in the driveshafts is normal and it can not be otherwise...you must be wary if they have play in turning...bmw have very strong driveshafts but the differentials are not so much..ive done full repair on my e36 LSD because of this and it was worn in the crown and the pinion due to drifts and burnouts ;) there was a missing tooth too...the actual play is caused by worn bearing on the pinion or worn tooths..i think the most important thing is to catch it in time and change the bearings because the pinion bearing is the thing that keeps everything tight and in the right possition...im happy to drive the car more than 5000km after and it feels great...ive managed to find the exact same bearings that was for the initial assembly...TIMKEN made in France...these were in my diff and the same are now in but new.
That movement Should be there for freely move inside the CV as the car bounce up and down. other wise it will break and Noisy. :)
Precisely
It is because of metal fatigue. People like only changing the bushes, and reusing old arms, untill one day they break.
I would get the new quality aftermarket arms. And never the polyurethane nonsense. You might as well weld the arms to the bolts...
I “think” the drive shaft movement is normal - check the other side if its similar -
The only negative i have met about poly Bushes is that sometimes they squeaking noises. That's why i use Super Lube Polyurethane Bushing & Chassis Grease and it helps a lot in this case.
You’ve noticed this with Powerflex?
@@GeorgeAusters
Nope, i said it overall about poly bushes.
For example, now i am going to install adjustable camber arms on my car, which have Bar Rod Ends with poly bushings and i am going to use that grease. We had done exactly the same job, with my friends car and after using grease the noise has gone.
The bushes i am speaking now are not from powerflex, they are from speedwaymotors shop USA.
Yeah some polybushes are poor quality, that squeak and wear but Powerflex quality is top notch👌🏼
I hope you got it tracked after
Of course👍🏻
My Toyota failed its MOT last year on rusty fuel filler pipe well it was that bad it was leaking slightly tbh and I could not get one on eBay or aftermarket anywhere so off to Toyota I went and it was £180 for a small piece of metal pipe 🤦🏻♂️
Jesus
Hi bud. Just a question. Did this job fixed the clanking noise on the rear?
Nope :(
You make removing bolts look so easy lol. I had a nightmare this week removing a calliper bracket bolt🤬
Haha calliper brackets are steel, these arms are all aluminium so you only have to deal with a bit of corrosion, no rust.
Get yourself an impact wrench mate👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters I tried one mate it wouldn't budge. I knocked most of it out with a spanner/hammer lol added a fair few hours to the job
Lee Quin You need a more powerful one. My big one has a breakaway torque of around 1500NM... Haven’t found a bolt that it has struggled on yet👌🏼
@@GeorgeAusters yh I borrowed the neighbours lol.. Looking at them online now lol
@@GeorgeAusters dewalt 950nm is £150 bare unit then battery and charger another £70.. Dno if I need that much nm? I've saw others aprox 450nm
Hi George just a suggestion, you need to title this video better so anyone can find it, i have been trying to find this for ages as i plan on doing my RTABS had to scroll through your video list, anyone youtubing e60 rear trailing arms bushes won't see this video due to the title, just thought I'd mention it mate.
I put diesel in my 118D, would not start the next day, then it dawned on me.
Rung a company up, they wanted £200 to come out, drain tank, flush fuel lines etc.
So I broke off some hosepipe.
Sucked the petrol out.
Then took went in under the back seats and sucked the rest out via the fuel pump hole.
Put £25 of diesel in and it started within a minute and now goes fine.
no smoke, nadda.
There are tons of people out there who jobs based on how much they think they can exploit you. learn to do stuff yourself if possible.
Get the right tools, get some basic mechanical knowledge and you will be surprised what you can do with guides and youtube videos.
Well done, George! This should be my next assignment.
P.S.: I want to thank you for the most of your previous videos which saved me from spending thousand of pounds for the mechanics. I recently changed the timing chain, crankshaft seal, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, gearbox oil and a few others after watching your videos and learning how to do it properly.
I would like to ask a quick question, if you don't mind. After changing the timing chain, the car started fine,, I took it for a 500 miles and I had two errors on the scanner (P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit and 3E90 Crankshaft RPM - No Signal). which I never had before then the engine refused to start. You think is the reluctor (or reductor) wheel between the crankshaft oil ring and the flywheel or the crankshaft sensor at fault? I removed the sensor and checked with a multimeter and there is nothing wrong with it.
Cheers mate, appreciate that.
With regards to your fault codes, I can’t say for certain. Have you checked them with ISTA?
@@GeorgeAusters I used Carista app on my phone which is a light version of ISTA. The errors probably refers to the crankshaft sensor not reading the RPM's, but I'm unsure if is the reluctor, the sensor or both. I ordered a new reluctor and I have to remove the engine again in order to change it. Do you know if there's a special procedure of fitting that reluctor back there?
I forgot to mention I have almost the same car you have, is a dark grey 520d E60 57 reg, 130 KW, 177 HP with a N47D20A engine.
Thank you again for your patience to explain, create, edit and upload those life saving videos. You're a gem!
Sorry mate I couldn’t tell you, I just pushed it in place🤷🏻♂️
Wheel alignment now I take it due to the camber arm adjustment bolt was removed....
Yep👍🏻
Good job done, did you do the Rose bushes as well whilst the arms were out? Also, my X5 drive shafts are tight with no movement, my wife's 3 series has some play but nothing like yours.
I didn’t do rose bushes mate no but they both looked intact👍🏻
Bmw also checked my car over when it was in for a recall,they told me the abs rings were damaged which I knew they were.So they said it would be €1200 or something around that for 2 shafts.i said thanks but il think about it 😂.i fitted 2 abs rings that cost me €10 and 2 hrs of my own labour.
Exactly, they never actually repair parts, only replace entire assemblies
George Austers also George thanks for the time you put into your videos they are great 👍
I had the same. £225 to change the front disk backing plate on one side of the car.
Great video George!
Good work!! I don’t think there should be that much play in the driveshafts.
Cheers Ian, I’ll try do a bit of research on them👍🏻
The play is normal shaft travel, the sound of it I don't like. It sounds dry...
Has the noise went away now ?
No mate, this wasn't to fix that, this was to fix the MOT advisory.
@@GeorgeAusters aww yeah looks like its the bushing in the video be good if it is like
Pollybushes are good choice but do be aware that greese in them does tend to escape over time and then u will be gettin squeeky noises from them until u greese them again
Noted, thanks bud!
Great job u done by the way 👍👍👍
Laki Laki my mate mark actually installed a grease nipple on his car for this exact reason.
What was the recall? I’m not sure I’d poly bush a daily drive you loose skit of comfort
Recall was regarding the main positive cable. I’d rather lose a slight bit of comfort for better durability and handling. I will be keeping stock suspension👍🏻
George Austers I am fairly certain I’ve seen some paperwork to say mines been done. Fair enough mines a daily so it’s pretty much for comfort for me I have a Corrado and Ibiza cupra for when I feel like a harsher drive 😂
Tommy Affs the recall is fairly recent. Worth checking because it’s a fire risk.
John Lever I’ll try to check on line had mine about a year thanks for letting me know
You can change all of your control arms for genuine BMW M3 parts from the E92/93 etc search up the parts from a company called TRW, they make the genuine BMW parts and grind off the M badge when they send them out directly or leave the badges on for BMW the sell, you can get all 8 arms two for each wheel for less than £500
Parts are call TRW JTC followed by a number, so here they are
JTC1428 - track control upper left rear
JTC1429 - track control upper right rear
JTC1430 - upper left front
JTC1431 - upper right front
Front
JTC1423 and 24 - front tension struts
JTC1426 and 27 - front LCAs
I know this after I bought them and fitted them myself to my own car nice upgrade M3 parts for relatively cheap
I’d hope M3 parts wouldn’t fit my 5 series mate 😂
I have already replaced a few arms so I’ll likely just polybush the rest of them when they fail👍🏻
You’d be surprised what fits what, I’ve got an old E87 and the M3 parts I bought all fit fine
@@KAOS_REAL but what would be the benefit by doing that? And not just use parts for e87?
Simon Muhr the parts are built differently they have more torsion in the parts and they have bearings instead of bushings, and they are made of aluminium so they are lightweight, I don’t know exactly but there’s a huge research thread on the 1addicts page about it where engineers have stripped and tested all the parts individually check it out
KAOS REAL all E60 arms are aluminium anyway👍🏻
That‘s a lot to process are sure you ready for it.
Hahaha
Nice work!
Cheers Chris!
Nice video thanks a lot
Awesome video
Thanks bud
Good video
Where can I get the tool to get the bushes in?
Thanks
It’s homemade haha!
Hahaha
Do you have any dimensions for me?
I don’t I’m afraid mate. There are lots of bush removal kits online if you want to simply buy one👍🏻
Excelente trabajo
Thank you
Touch wood. I dont need to deal with the rear.
Ive done my fronts. My gosh it was a pain in the ass job.
Had to change my whole front between 95k to 102k
Upper mount
Shocks
Drop links
Track rod
Control arms....
Just repack the driveshaft with grease sound bit dry.
No grease has came out
If you're willing to sell it to someone in europe and drive it over there to them youd make a nice profit.
👍🏼
👊🏻
Gruss aus Germany,
wer got. ,. Gruse aus Studdgard
Noice! Peace! :)
This guy is disingenuous, or this video is really really old. There has not been a recall on the E60 since the battery cables in boot.
Further more BMW don't touch old cars period!!!!!!!!! Fact.
So either really old vid posted ten months ago but some eleven years old or guys not being honest.
Hahaha wtf
What the hell are you harping on about
?? I've had a recall in the last 12 months to check the battery cable on my E60. Very strange as the car had the same recall and updated plastic bits with silicone grease 7yrs ago from BMW.