You gave some good information, but some not so good information as well. I’ll be the bad guy that points out a few things. 1. Stop turning the handle/gears with the spool removed. The spool in a Tatula supports the pinion gear. With the spool removed, the pinion is not supported in its proper position, and turning the handle/gears with it dropped, is one of the fastest ways to damage a gear set. 2. Alcohol is one of the worst choices for soaking/flushing bearings. Naphtha or Zippo lighter fluid breaks down the oil and grease much better, and faster, and leaves no residue. If a bearing is noisy, simply flushing and oiling usually isn’t enough. Use some compressed air to blow the bearing out following a soak to remove any debris in the bearing. 3. There are some critical contact points you did not address. The clutch cam plate, or thumb bar assembly as you called it, rides directly on the frame. It needs to be cleaned and greased as well. Also, the actual thumb bar needs grease on each side on the “slides” that clip into the frame. Also, a little grease on the bottom of the yoke, where the ramps on the clutch cam plate engage it needs grease. 4. Use more grease. You mentioned at the end that Daiwa tends to ship their reels a little dry, which is a fact, but you used as little grease as they did during initial assembly. A little more grease on the main gear and pinion will both protect the gear from metal on metal contact better, but also will not dry out as fast or wash away as fast. A little extra grease will not have adverse effects on the performance. 5. Most (not all) guys who service reels as a business, go much more in-depth in cleaning. We use expensive ultra sonic cleaners to remove dirt, grime, oil, and grease that a toothbrush and q-tips can not get. Every reel I touch gets completely disassembled, all the way to bare frame, including breaking down the handle. There is a reason we charge what we do, to do it properly. 6. Reel service should be performed annually to ensure top performance and extend longevity of any reel, regardless of brand. If you wait until it’s noisy or grinding, the damage is already done, and you will most likely be needing parts.
Great post Bryan! Like I said, I'm an amateur at best. I'll use more grease in the future. Looking back on the video I did notice all the spots in forgot to grease (like you point out). Thanks for the info, I pinned the post.
Also, I wasn't really intending to downplay what a good reel tech does to clean and service a casting reel. Obviously it's better than what I'm doing. Personally, I have 20+ reels and if I sent them in annually to be professionally serviced that would be quite an added expense year after year. I personally like to tinker with things and take stuff apart, and I genuinely enjoy cleaning my reels. Gives me something to do in the off season. I really made this video just to document my own process and hopefully show that some simple maintenance really isn't that scary.
I wasn’t taking it as you down playing. I was just speaking as to how much more in-depth a cleaning can and does go. And while yes, sending in 20+ reels at say $25 each is quite a bit of cost, in most cases it is still cheaper than replacing 1 or 2 reels. The other added benefit is catching problems before they arise. A part of my service regimen is inspecting each part for potential failure, and preventing that failure. Especially when you get into higher end reels such as a Steez, Zillion, etc where just a gear set is $80+ dollars.
Without a doubt, Spankey is one of the best, and is "lineaged" from one of the most respected reel tuners out there. Bryan, can you expand on why Isopropyl alcohol is bad for flushing bearings? I have experienced very good results with 91% isopropyl alcohol for flushing bearings, however I noticed that they come out a little rough and dry.
@bryan lambert and @punchfishing thanks for the video. I found it while trying to trouble shoot a problem with my Daiwa Alphas SV TW '21. The pinion gear will not lock in the spool fully...everything works fine, until I pull drag, then the pinion and spool start chattering. Taken it apart countless times now. Kick plate is secured to the handle shaft and the pinion gear is seated in the yoke and springs on the post as usual. Reel spins fine and free spool is good, but as soon as I pull drag it's bad news. Any ideas?
I've watched many reel maintenance videos. This is the first one that really clicked in my head. Alot easier to assemble the reel when you understand what each part does. Also eased my fears opening my first daiwa. Probably the easiest disassemble of any reel I've done.
Thanks for taking the time to show this PF... While it may not have been how the "pro's" do it, it was enough to keep the reel performing well until we can afford to to spend $50 per reel to have it done "properly". You'd be stunned how hard it is to find someone who cleans these reels "professionally". In the Orlando FL area, there's only one person (that I know of) who does this. Thanks again...
Thank you for posting this video. I used a new Daiwa reel for the first time yesterday (I typically use Abu Garcia and Shimano), and it was obvious it was not greased much from the factory based off the sound it made. This video is extremely helpful, as I do not like disassembly of reels. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Well versed and well instructed with good tips . For left handed users be aware. It took me 4 disassembles till I realize the clutch gear is supposed to go other way. 😂
Thanks for doing this. I just started using baitcasters last season and put my tatula sv tw through the ringer last season and need to give it and my 3 other reels a cleaning but didn't know where to start
Haha...wait until you mess with an OG Shimano Exsence DC 8.0:1...removing the tiny c-clip that holds on the tiny mechanism that creates the outgoing drag indent sound, is a hair pulling experience...not to mention the two larger tension springs around the toothed plastic wheel that the tiny metal mechanism clicks on. And just when you think you're in the clear, reassembly is even more difficult and tedious. Lol. Unfortunately, there's no way around the above noted work as it's the only way to access and remove the main gear, washers, single drag washer, pinion gear, etc., in order to do a full and proper scrub down/clean/relube. Good stuff man, thanks for sharing and picking up the slack tide left, with Scoobs no longer doing these breakdowns on Tackle Advisors.
Awesome job! Made it look easy. I’m a Shimano fan boy with about 10 Curado K’s. I’ll be looking forward to that video and start doing my own reels. Thanks for doing this video.
One thing to remember is to NOT turn the handle when the spool in removed. When you spin the handle you can hear the not perfectly aligned gears grind a little. That is slightly damaging the gears.
This is not always the case. The rattling and "grinding" usually only occurs on a reel without a dual bearing pinion support, i.e., the Tatulas and most Shimanos without X-ship (which is essentially anything older than 10 years with Shimano). Daiwas from over 20 years ago were fine cranking without the spool in it, so long as they had the dual bearing pinion. This includes TDX HSDF/HSD/HVA, all first generation of free floating reels such as OG Zillions, Alphas, TDZs, TDX Air Metal, TD Fuegos, Sol, Pixy, Millionaire CVZ/CVX, and essentially any I'ZE Factory editions and the subsequent Megabass renditions of the same platforms. The gear rattling/slightly grinding you hear and feel, is the pinion gear rattling around since it is not connected to a spool/pin, and there is not a dual bearing or bushing system in place to support it.
@@vansaukam799 With this reel that he's working on it's the case. I would say in general it's best not to spin the handle when the spool isn't in the reel.
@@TheWaymont - correct and understood, I did mention the Tatula as being one of these reels without the double bearing supported pinion design (and long shaft vs Daiwa's free floating spool design reels). You are correct in that turning the handle without the spool in the reel however, is not a good habit.
Great video for close up taking the reel apart. Been looking at other people’s video of taking the reel apart and was just not confident after watching their video as they make it more complicated. Would love to see you do video on shimano reel too like the Metanium or Antares
Dude you saved me a whole lot of brain damage but my Daiwia back together. This reel I used a short period last season and always had some gear noise. So I tore her down and couldn’t get the drag to engage. Watch your video and so my mistake and back in business again . But the reel still has the noise , so I’ll up grade the bearings and see how that works out.🤔 Your explanation is spot on. I’ll definitely be watching more of your videos thanks again.
So you like grease on the worm drive? I’ve always thought it was oil but grease is what they ship with I believe? Do you have troubles with dirt in there with the grease? I fish so often the oil gets dry quickly on me.
My Daiwa Alphas Air TW has been left at home without usage for 1 year. Took it out and its dry and noisy. Greased and oiled it up that i could feel it's now buttery smooth but the noisy problem still exists. Would you think that the sound is caused by some sort of rusted/damaged bearing?
11:41 why would that bearing make you have a noisy cast? Does it spin when you cast? I don't think it does. I'm probably wrong but can you please explain?
Ok, I'm curious, I never hear of upgrading the main shaft bearing . I understand the spool bearing upgrade but I think upgrading the main shaft bearing to a ceramic would be of some benefit also. Am I wrong with this? Also anyone know the main shaft bearing size for the Tatula sv tws and the Shimano curado 200dhsv?
I second the soaking bearings. Every year I soak mine. I'm slow so it takes me about an hour to clean my reels taking them apart down to the wormgear. So usually the first thing I do is pull all the bearings and soak them in isopropyl alcohol while I'm doing everything else. You can use isopropyl alcohol on everything else too, just be careful with plastic pieces, as it can discolor them if you soak them. I like it because it evaporates clean with no residue.
@@PunchFishing give some TSI-321 a try. A drop or two usually lasts me all season and is thin enough it doesn't bog them down. I really like it for bearings, especially if ya just wanna lube and forget them.
I was just about to send some reels in, I’m only a few minutes into watching this so not at home to look now, but is a regular tatula 100 similar? I’ve got half sv’s and half standard tatulas
@@PunchFishing i appreciate your reply! I took it out to the salt twice and am good for now but Ik more trips will wear it down so I’m saving this video for when I’m ready! My Daiwa coastal 200 failed twice within a month. I will now sub to show my appreciation
Great video, I’m not sure if I would refer that reel as being a cheap reel ? $200.00 is a cheap reel ? Anyways, I would suggest using latex gloves when working on the internal parts. Your hands have salt and it’s better to wear gloves. I would recommend putting a tiny bit of lock tight on the 3 main body screws when you reassemble. You can still get them free for the next cleaning.
hey bud, great video!. may have missed something but when I put my Tatula 100h back together, I click down the spool for casting and it doesn't close up on its own when I cast now? have you seen this? I went back thru my reel taking plates off and such and cant seem to find where I went wrong? everything is lining up right. seems odd. star drag works, everything is smooth but now it seems like i have to close the thumb button on my own instead of slightly reeling to close it. ideas??
@nicholastomlinson4723 hope you figured it out but if not, it’s likely that you didn’t reattach a tension spring (some reels have two and some have one) that provides tension to help the thumb bar pop back into place. Additionally, I’ve seen this happen when guys put the yoke back in upside down. All things to look at.
You gave some good information, but some not so good information as well. I’ll be the bad guy that points out a few things.
1. Stop turning the handle/gears with the spool removed. The spool in a Tatula supports the pinion gear. With the spool removed, the pinion is not supported in its proper position, and turning the handle/gears with it dropped, is one of the fastest ways to damage a gear set.
2. Alcohol is one of the worst choices for soaking/flushing bearings. Naphtha or Zippo lighter fluid breaks down the oil and grease much better, and faster, and leaves no residue. If a bearing is noisy, simply flushing and oiling usually isn’t enough. Use some compressed air to blow the bearing out following a soak to remove any debris in the bearing.
3. There are some critical contact points you did not address. The clutch cam plate, or thumb bar assembly as you called it, rides directly on the frame. It needs to be cleaned and greased as well. Also, the actual thumb bar needs grease on each side on the “slides” that clip into the frame. Also, a little grease on the bottom of the yoke, where the ramps on the clutch cam plate engage it needs grease.
4. Use more grease. You mentioned at the end that Daiwa tends to ship their reels a little dry, which is a fact, but you used as little grease as they did during initial assembly. A little more grease on the main gear and pinion will both protect the gear from metal on metal contact better, but also will not dry out as fast or wash away as fast. A little extra grease will not have adverse effects on the performance.
5. Most (not all) guys who service reels as a business, go much more in-depth in cleaning. We use expensive ultra sonic cleaners to remove dirt, grime, oil, and grease that a toothbrush and q-tips can not get. Every reel I touch gets completely disassembled, all the way to bare frame, including breaking down the handle. There is a reason we charge what we do, to do it properly.
6. Reel service should be performed annually to ensure top performance and extend longevity of any reel, regardless of brand. If you wait until it’s noisy or grinding, the damage is already done, and you will most likely be needing parts.
Great post Bryan! Like I said, I'm an amateur at best. I'll use more grease in the future. Looking back on the video I did notice all the spots in forgot to grease (like you point out). Thanks for the info, I pinned the post.
Also, I wasn't really intending to downplay what a good reel tech does to clean and service a casting reel. Obviously it's better than what I'm doing. Personally, I have 20+ reels and if I sent them in annually to be professionally serviced that would be quite an added expense year after year. I personally like to tinker with things and take stuff apart, and I genuinely enjoy cleaning my reels. Gives me something to do in the off season. I really made this video just to document my own process and hopefully show that some simple maintenance really isn't that scary.
I wasn’t taking it as you down playing. I was just speaking as to how much more in-depth a cleaning can and does go. And while yes, sending in 20+ reels at say $25 each is quite a bit of cost, in most cases it is still cheaper than replacing 1 or 2 reels. The other added benefit is catching problems before they arise. A part of my service regimen is inspecting each part for potential failure, and preventing that failure. Especially when you get into higher end reels such as a Steez, Zillion, etc where just a gear set is $80+ dollars.
Without a doubt, Spankey is one of the best, and is "lineaged" from one of the most respected reel tuners out there.
Bryan, can you expand on why Isopropyl alcohol is bad for flushing bearings? I have experienced very good results with 91% isopropyl alcohol for flushing bearings, however I noticed that they come out a little rough and dry.
@bryan lambert and @punchfishing thanks for the video. I found it while trying to trouble shoot a problem with my Daiwa Alphas SV TW '21. The pinion gear will not lock in the spool fully...everything works fine, until I pull drag, then the pinion and spool start chattering. Taken it apart countless times now. Kick plate is secured to the handle shaft and the pinion gear is seated in the yoke and springs on the post as usual. Reel spins fine and free spool is good, but as soon as I pull drag it's bad news. Any ideas?
I've watched many reel maintenance videos. This is the first one that really clicked in my head. Alot easier to assemble the reel when you understand what each part does. Also eased my fears opening my first daiwa. Probably the easiest disassemble of any reel I've done.
Glad it helped
Thanks for taking the time to show this PF... While it may not have been how the "pro's" do it, it was enough to keep the reel performing well until we can afford to to spend $50 per reel to have it done "properly". You'd be stunned how hard it is to find someone who cleans these reels "professionally". In the Orlando FL area, there's only one person (that I know of) who does this. Thanks again...
Thank you for posting this video. I used a new Daiwa reel for the first time yesterday (I typically use Abu Garcia and Shimano), and it was obvious it was not greased much from the factory based off the sound it made. This video is extremely helpful, as I do not like disassembly of reels. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Well versed and well instructed with good tips .
For left handed users be aware. It took me 4 disassembles till I realize the clutch gear is supposed to go other way. 😂
Thanks for doing this! Getting ready to clean and change the bearings on four Tatula’s.
Thanks for your time to this. This really helped me to get my reel up and running smoothly again
Great to hear!
Thanks for doing this. I just started using baitcasters last season and put my tatula sv tw through the ringer last season and need to give it and my 3 other reels a cleaning but didn't know where to start
Haha...wait until you mess with an OG Shimano Exsence DC 8.0:1...removing the tiny c-clip that holds on the tiny mechanism that creates the outgoing drag indent sound, is a hair pulling experience...not to mention the two larger tension springs around the toothed plastic wheel that the tiny metal mechanism clicks on. And just when you think you're in the clear, reassembly is even more difficult and tedious. Lol.
Unfortunately, there's no way around the above noted work as it's the only way to access and remove the main gear, washers, single drag washer, pinion gear, etc., in order to do a full and proper scrub down/clean/relube.
Good stuff man, thanks for sharing and picking up the slack tide left, with Scoobs no longer doing these breakdowns on Tackle Advisors.
Great breakdown and helped me a lot. You have a bunch of great reel videos!!
Appreciate the feedback! I watch all your videos!!
I would love to see how you clean a Daiwa spinning reel! I have a few in need and the last time I tried I ended up totally lost.
Awesome job! Made it look easy. I’m a Shimano fan boy with about 10 Curado K’s. I’ll be looking forward to that video and start doing my own reels. Thanks for doing this video.
I like using a zip tie or similar to keep parts in their proper order/position as I take them out of the reel
Greatest four words ever, it just looks cool,yes I agree thanks for the video.
One thing to remember is to NOT turn the handle when the spool in removed. When you spin the handle you can hear the not perfectly aligned gears grind a little. That is slightly damaging the gears.
This is not always the case. The rattling and "grinding" usually only occurs on a reel without a dual bearing pinion support, i.e., the Tatulas and most Shimanos without X-ship (which is essentially anything older than 10 years with Shimano).
Daiwas from over 20 years ago were fine cranking without the spool in it, so long as they had the dual bearing pinion. This includes TDX HSDF/HSD/HVA, all first generation of free floating reels such as OG Zillions, Alphas, TDZs, TDX Air Metal, TD Fuegos, Sol, Pixy, Millionaire CVZ/CVX, and essentially any I'ZE Factory editions and the subsequent Megabass renditions of the same platforms.
The gear rattling/slightly grinding you hear and feel, is the pinion gear rattling around since it is not connected to a spool/pin, and there is not a dual bearing or bushing system in place to support it.
@@vansaukam799 With this reel that he's working on it's the case. I would say in general it's best not to spin the handle when the spool isn't in the reel.
@@TheWaymont - correct and understood, I did mention the Tatula as being one of these reels without the double bearing supported pinion design (and long shaft vs Daiwa's free floating spool design reels).
You are correct in that turning the handle without the spool in the reel however, is not a good habit.
Great video for close up taking the reel apart. Been looking at other people’s video of taking the reel apart and was just not confident after watching their video as they make it more complicated. Would love to see you do video on shimano reel too like the Metanium or Antares
Dude you saved me a whole lot of brain damage but my Daiwia back together. This reel I used a short period last season and always had some gear noise. So I tore her down and couldn’t get the drag to engage. Watch your video and so my mistake and back in business again . But the reel still has the noise , so I’ll up grade the bearings and see how that works out.🤔 Your explanation is spot on. I’ll definitely be watching more of your videos thanks again.
Can't wait for the shimano video. Looking forward to it.
Thanks for the vid I need to take apart a first gen Tatula sv for maintenance.
The process is all the same! It's really easy.
Where do I go to buy aftermarket bearings? And what are your recommendations? Why do you replace the factory ones?
Automotive Brake parts cleaner works amazing for cleaning parts, it also evaporates after and doesn't leave residue. Also it's hella cheap lol
Just make sure its non-chlorinated or it can melt plastic
So you like grease on the worm drive? I’ve always thought it was oil but grease is what they ship with I believe? Do you have troubles with dirt in there with the grease? I fish so often the oil gets dry quickly on me.
Yes, grease it, but only a small amount so it doesn't collect too much dirt.
My Daiwa Alphas Air TW has been left at home without usage for 1 year. Took it out and its dry and noisy. Greased and oiled it up that i could feel it's now buttery smooth but the noisy problem still exists. Would you think that the sound is caused by some sort of rusted/damaged bearing?
11:41 why would that bearing make you have a noisy cast? Does it spin when you cast? I don't think it does. I'm probably wrong but can you please explain?
Great video! Can we expect a similar video for Shimano bait casters or spinning reels?
What Shimano casting reel do you want me to do?
Could you do a shimano curado E series or a chronarch E series cleaning video? And / or a shimano sustain or Stradic spinning video?
@@PunchFishing One vote for Metanuim, please.
One vote for you to do a Tranx 400 video
I see a Wera. Great taste all around.
It's so good!
hi there..i have a question...can i clean the one way bearing with lighter fluid?
shimano now pls, great video
Ok,
I'm curious, I never hear of upgrading the main shaft bearing . I understand the spool bearing upgrade but I think upgrading the main shaft bearing to a ceramic would be of some benefit also.
Am I wrong with this?
Also anyone know the main shaft bearing size for the Tatula sv tws and the Shimano curado 200dhsv?
Please make the Shimano reel version
I second the soaking bearings. Every year I soak mine. I'm slow so it takes me about an hour to clean my reels taking them apart down to the wormgear. So usually the first thing I do is pull all the bearings and soak them in isopropyl alcohol while I'm doing everything else. You can use isopropyl alcohol on everything else too, just be careful with plastic pieces, as it can discolor them if you soak them. I like it because it evaporates clean with no residue.
I typically only soak the bearings when they are screaming for a bath lol. Mostly just because i'm lazy.
@@PunchFishing give some TSI-321 a try. A drop or two usually lasts me all season and is thin enough it doesn't bog them down. I really like it for bearings, especially if ya just wanna lube and forget them.
"The real moment of truth" bearing doesn't need a drop of oil?
I was just about to send some reels in, I’m only a few minutes into watching this so not at home to look now, but is a regular tatula 100 similar? I’ve got half sv’s and half standard tatulas
Just a regular tatula SV but the process is the same across all Daiwas.
@@PunchFishing sweet man was literally going to send in 5 reels I don’t use for winter fishing in later this week
After I cleaned and greased my tatula i feel a vibration on my handle when turning the handle is the normal?
I would say no, it is not. You may want to break it back down and make sure you have all the pieces put on correctly.
Says it’s not hard me seeing a 32 min video🤯
fair point!
If i were to do this with the Diawa Steez is it the same or similar?
exact same
My gf hates the smell of Reel Klean 😂.
Would this cleaning work for my zillion HD 2015? Just got it and need to know how to maintain it
Yes! Baitcasters are basically all the same.
@@PunchFishing i appreciate your reply! I took it out to the salt twice and am good for now but Ik more trips will wear it down so I’m saving this video for when I’m ready! My Daiwa coastal 200 failed twice within a month. I will now sub to show my appreciation
What do u charge? Can I send u some reels to clean?
You never did the shimano cleaning you said you would do.
I will do that this week!
Great video, I’m not sure if I would refer that reel as being a cheap reel ? $200.00 is a cheap reel ? Anyways, I would suggest using latex gloves when working on the internal parts. Your hands have salt and it’s better to wear gloves. I would recommend putting a tiny bit of lock tight on the 3 main body screws when you reassemble. You can still get them free for the next cleaning.
Be careful and go slow, otherwise you’ll get a small explosion of tiny little parts everywhere when you open it. 😂
rip tackle advisors
He's still alive! Just has a real life now and is all professional in the fishing industry :)
Didn't grease your drag
I gave it a light greasing.
You're better off adding a few drops of oil to your worm gear, grease attracts dirt
Gears get grease, bearings get oil
@@davidgerdes1815 if you say so, been doing this for over 30 years
@@lucricher8023 at least you’re consistent, wrong but consistent
@@davidgerdes1815 sorry I meant the worm shaft
Jeez…if you’re gonna do a how to video, you need to do your homework first. Learn the words, definitions.
Thanks? You're welcome to make your own video where you use all the correct terminology.
hey bud, great video!. may have missed something but when I put my Tatula 100h back together, I click down the spool for casting and it doesn't close up on its own when I cast now? have you seen this? I went back thru my reel taking plates off and such and cant seem to find where I went wrong? everything is lining up right. seems odd. star drag works, everything is smooth but now it seems like i have to close the thumb button on my own instead of slightly reeling to close it. ideas??
@nicholastomlinson4723 hope you figured it out but if not, it’s likely that you didn’t reattach a tension spring (some reels have two and some have one) that provides tension to help the thumb bar pop back into place. Additionally, I’ve seen this happen when guys put the yoke back in upside down. All things to look at.