Good stuff Jimbo! And remember folks, the zero adjuster is factory set by some minimum wage worker in a factory, they are not all set precisely the exact same from reel to reel. Jimmy was spot on about not leaving that side to side play, or as absolutely minimal as possible. I was floored when my casts went from good to wow i can't believe that just casted like that when changed the factory zero adjustment on my zillion from side to side play to minimal and gained significant distance and accuracy. A more controlled spool will cast better than a loose and wild spool.
Awesome video! I've had a Daiwa baitcaster for several years and never knew how to adjust it! My spool was loose and slapping the sides. Now it's perfect!
@@timb8970 that is right! If I didn't say it in the video.. Most magnetic braking reel can be configured this way in the market today. Daiwa was first to figure it out and make their reels excel with this specific configuration.
Quite informative. Your spool has no line on it. Can this method also work with line spooled? I have the Daiwa Tatula SV TW 70 in left hand. I wasn't all that sold on the zero adjust concept. So what I did with my reel, I left it at the Daiwa factory setting and used a silver colored Sharpie, I drew a line on the spool adjuster knob and bring it down just a bit on the frame of the reel, so the line is even. (any colored Sharpie will work as long as you can see where it aligns) I did this because I noticed that when I install the shallow BFS spool I bought for this reel, the factory setting was just too loose, that even on almost max braking, I would get spool overruns. I can now adjust the spool adjuster for when I have the BFS spool on the reel and when I switch back to the standard SV spool, it's back to the factory setting. I'm not saying this is a good method, but it does take the guess work if you have the spool set back to the factory setting. Your Vid, I wish I knew about when I bought the Tatula SV TW 70 back in the beginning of this year. Your vid would have answered all my questions about Daiwa zero adjust knob. Thank you again for such an informative video.
Line or no line, it should not matter. Note aftermarket spools can be shorter shaft or longer than factory, so knowing this method would help u adjust your spool tension properly.
One thing about having a loose spool tension is that the line can get caught between the frame and spool and snap it instantly. Had it happen 3 times. Thanks to this video, I shouldn't have any problems with it.
Hmm, sounds like your reel got a huge gap between the spool and the reels body. When using thin lines... It can definitely get trapped. I choose reel with smaller gaps since I use super thin lines.
Yes! Every single magnetic baitcasting reel! Steez should have been already done out of the box. But if you changed it, you now know how to change it back 👍
Hi I have question i have Daiwa tatula tw sv 103h and I didn’t know it had the zero adjuster and I mess with the tension knob and half the time it backlashes is there any way to put it back to factory settings?
FYI-You have to push the clutch down for freespool to adjust the zero adjuster correctly. When it’s not in free spool it won’t adjust correctly and will be too loose.
Not sure if that is true. Tested it and no difference. I made it wiggle barely and compared while no wiggle. Both had same amount of side play with clutch engaged and disengaged. If u could provide more science for clarification, it would be most helpful
Just got my 100 and backlash is awful with brakes on 20 using P-Line fluoro 12#. I had to put some tension on the tension knob using pliers. Not the solution I was looking for but that worked. Zero tension only works if factory was set properly.
If the tension is set factory tuned, it would be considered over braked at brake setting 20. Tatula 100 reel got strong brakes. I am curious what rod setup and lure you were throwing to backlash.
@@rawrfishing thx for replying…..have it on a Quantum QX36 Casting 6’ Med rod. 12# P-Line Fluoro. Throwing weightless 6” zoom senco. On max brakes…..backlash was unacceptable.
@@rawrfishing yes, just weighed worm alone- .28 oz. Then add a 4/0 EWG hook. I ended up tightening the tensioner knob a bit and it works nice now. NOT a fan of not being able to adjust that as ALL bass fishermen want to adjust as needed or prefer. Baffles me that Daiwa did not seem to think this through….of course….IMHO. Thanks for the follow up.
@@rawrfishing something else I thought about. The 100 has the same braking as my Daiwa CT100HS and they did not use the zero adjustment on that model. What changed? Something I did not mention was that testing this bait drop in my office and I had a nasty birds nest just doing that. The spool just had no friction and spun like mad.
I can set to 6 and softly cast pretty far. 6 is where it starts over spooling on most reels at the start of the cast. But those who Feather their spools can definitely achieve great distances
Not sure... And not sure how they do and test it.. But based on your description, the margin of error seems fine as both ways will work. The better question is how do you like it? Which works better for you in your experience?
Thank you Jimmy for this video.❤ I would be cautious about monkeying around with zero _adjuster as a whole. Try it out of the box, as-is first. I own the DAIWA Tatula 80 TW SV and would first spool with braid. Then, I would fish with it forv5 to 10 minutes. If I do birdnest, then I may adjust with very little, minute click to where the spool doesnt move as much but never too tight where the spool moves too little. In summary, spool and if you do birdnest, then adjust. I have very little litle side to side on my spool with 10lb PowerPro V2 braid and right out-of-the-box, I have not adjusted my spool tension and Its the best baitcaster I have.
Thx! Monkeying is a necessity for anglers to fine tune their reels to their casting style and tackle needs! I think with the proper knowledge, everyone can and should fiddle! After all, everyone now knows how to factory reset their reels ;)
Because that's how Daiwa reels works! What you described is a legacy method for mainly centrifugal braking reels. Magnetic braking reels are truly amazing
The "Zero Tension Adjuster" is just daiwa marketing speak for people who don't know how casting reels work, it's not an actual physical or mechanical feature, just marketed as one. It's simply how one adjusts the spool tension knob, the same one that's been on virtually every casting reel made by every manufacturer since the beginning of time. Any casting reel ever made with a spool tension knob can be set to "zero tension". Technically speaking the daiwa zero tension adjustment is when it's set for .2mm of spool movement.
Not necessarily. I know how it works and I love it. And the method of setting up a magnetic braking reel differs from centrifugal braking. But in the end of the day... If it makes it easier for folks to enjoy the sport.... Why not?
@@rawrfishing What I stated is absolutely true, that is what zero tension adjustment is. I did not say or imply it's right for everyone and every situation, every setup will have different optimal settings based on rod action, line diameter, lure weight, wind conditions, etc and should be adjusted for.
I found that my Daiwa reels... I never needed to change the tension knob. But if you feel that you need to for your fishing and casting style... Go for it! That's what is for! What they have setup is how majority of folks can use which is nice! Advanced users are welcome to tinker and fine-tune to what they want. Cheers
While the name suggests zero tension, there are some even if it's loose. Magnetic braking reels are not like centrifugal. There are always brakes applied. Thus this method of configuration is fine. Daiwa was the first to figure that one out... But it applies to pretty much all magnetic braking reels. Give it a shot
Good stuff Jimbo! And remember folks, the zero adjuster is factory set by some minimum wage worker in a factory, they are not all set precisely the exact same from reel to reel.
Jimmy was spot on about not leaving that side to side play, or as absolutely minimal as possible. I was floored when my casts went from good to wow i can't believe that just casted like that when changed the factory zero adjustment on my zillion from side to side play to minimal and gained significant distance and accuracy.
A more controlled spool will cast better than a loose and wild spool.
There's definitely some margin of error, but I think like you and I, most ppl will utilize this knowledge here and set it how we do it! Cheers
Awesome video! I've had a Daiwa baitcaster for several years and never knew how to adjust it! My spool was loose and slapping the sides. Now it's perfect!
Glad it helped!
Thanks bro. Been fishing for years with spinning reels and recently made the leap to baitcast. Informative video
Glad I could help, if u haven't already, watch my casting tutorial!
I was going to say this is how most baitcasters work. Assuming they have similar braking as Daiwa.
@@timb8970 that is right! If I didn't say it in the video.. Most magnetic braking reel can be configured this way in the market today. Daiwa was first to figure it out and make their reels excel with this specific configuration.
Quite informative.
Your spool has no line on it. Can this method also work with line spooled?
I have the Daiwa Tatula SV TW 70 in left hand. I wasn't all that sold on the zero adjust concept. So what I did with my reel, I left it at the Daiwa factory setting and used a silver colored Sharpie, I drew a line on the spool adjuster knob and bring it down just a bit on the frame of the reel, so the line is even. (any colored Sharpie will work as long as you can see where it aligns)
I did this because I noticed that when I install the shallow BFS spool I bought for this reel, the factory setting was just too loose, that even on almost max braking, I would get spool overruns. I can now adjust the spool adjuster for when I have the BFS spool on the reel and when I switch back to the standard SV spool, it's back to the factory setting.
I'm not saying this is a good method, but it does take the guess work if you have the spool set back to the factory setting.
Your Vid, I wish I knew about when I bought the Tatula SV TW 70 back in the beginning of this year. Your vid would have answered all my questions about Daiwa zero adjust knob.
Thank you again for such an informative video.
Line or no line, it should not matter.
Note aftermarket spools can be shorter shaft or longer than factory, so knowing this method would help u adjust your spool tension properly.
One thing about having a loose spool tension is that the line can get caught between the frame and spool and snap it instantly. Had it happen 3 times. Thanks to this video, I shouldn't have any problems with it.
Hmm, sounds like your reel got a huge gap between the spool and the reels body. When using thin lines... It can definitely get trapped. I choose reel with smaller gaps since I use super thin lines.
Bro...this method can be use on daiwa steez a ii ?
Yes! Every single magnetic baitcasting reel! Steez should have been already done out of the box. But if you changed it, you now know how to change it back 👍
Hi I have question i have Daiwa tatula tw sv 103h and I didn’t know it had the zero adjuster and I mess with the tension knob and half the time it backlashes is there any way to put it back to factory settings?
My bad I didn’t watch the full video thank you
Glad you found the answer! :)
for me set it to minimize side to side play, then only use magnetic braking system
Yep, The Daiwa factory setting!
FYI-You have to push the clutch down for freespool to adjust the zero adjuster correctly. When it’s not in free spool it won’t adjust correctly and will be too loose.
Not sure if that is true. Tested it and no difference. I made it wiggle barely and compared while no wiggle. Both had same amount of side play with clutch engaged and disengaged. If u could provide more science for clarification, it would be most helpful
Just got my 100 and backlash is awful with brakes on 20 using P-Line fluoro 12#. I had to put some tension on the tension knob using pliers. Not the solution I was looking for but that worked. Zero tension only works if factory was set properly.
If the tension is set factory tuned, it would be considered over braked at brake setting 20. Tatula 100 reel got strong brakes.
I am curious what rod setup and lure you were throwing to backlash.
@@rawrfishing thx for replying…..have it on a Quantum QX36 Casting 6’ Med rod. 12# P-Line Fluoro. Throwing weightless 6” zoom senco. On max brakes…..backlash was unacceptable.
How much that worm weighs? I assume more than quarter oz...
@@rawrfishing yes, just weighed worm alone- .28 oz. Then add a 4/0 EWG hook. I ended up tightening the tensioner knob a bit and it works nice now. NOT a fan of not being able to adjust that as ALL bass fishermen want to adjust as needed or prefer. Baffles me that Daiwa did not seem to think this through….of course….IMHO. Thanks for the follow up.
@@rawrfishing something else I thought about. The 100 has the same braking as my Daiwa CT100HS and they did not use the zero adjustment on that model. What changed? Something I did not mention was that testing this bait drop in my office and I had a nasty birds nest just doing that. The spool just had no friction and spun like mad.
I remember my old tatula type R..spool just barely move side to side, braking set to 6..ceramic bearing, cast a mile 👍
I can set to 6 and softly cast pretty far. 6 is where it starts over spooling on most reels at the start of the cast. But those who Feather their spools can definitely achieve great distances
Do you know Which Upgrades you could do on This specifically?
Not sure what u want as upgrade. It's very subjective. The reel itself is amazing. U can change spool bearings! Something I will do soon!
@@rawrfishing my Bad 😅 i meant like spools,dragclickers etc
I see. Unfortunately I do not know as I am no longer in the market for conversions. We live in a market with way more bfs reels than ever!
Makes me wonder how accurate the zero adjuster is set. I have two Zillions one is set with some play in the spool and the other has none. 🤔
I think exactly the same 😊
I always tweak it a bit
Not sure... And not sure how they do and test it.. But based on your description, the margin of error seems fine as both ways will work. The better question is how do you like it? Which works better for you in your experience?
Thank you Jimmy for this video.❤ I would be cautious about monkeying around with zero _adjuster as a whole. Try it out of the box, as-is first. I own the DAIWA Tatula 80 TW SV and would first spool with braid. Then, I would fish with it forv5 to 10 minutes. If I do birdnest, then I may adjust with very little, minute click to where the spool doesnt move as much but never too tight where the spool moves too little. In summary, spool and if you do birdnest, then adjust. I have very little litle side to side on my spool with 10lb PowerPro V2 braid and right out-of-the-box, I have not adjusted my spool tension and Its the best baitcaster I have.
Thx! Monkeying is a necessity for anglers to fine tune their reels to their casting style and tackle needs! I think with the proper knowledge, everyone can and should fiddle! After all, everyone now knows how to factory reset their reels ;)
I don’t understand how the tension would be pre tuned because you should tune it based on the weight of lure your using
Because that's how Daiwa reels works! What you described is a legacy method for mainly centrifugal braking reels. Magnetic braking reels are truly amazing
The "Zero Tension Adjuster" is just daiwa marketing speak for people who don't know how casting reels work, it's not an actual physical or mechanical feature, just marketed as one. It's simply how one adjusts the spool tension knob, the same one that's been on virtually every casting reel made by every manufacturer since the beginning of time. Any casting reel ever made with a spool tension knob can be set to "zero tension". Technically speaking the daiwa zero tension adjustment is when it's set for .2mm of spool movement.
Not necessarily. I know how it works and I love it. And the method of setting up a magnetic braking reel differs from centrifugal braking. But in the end of the day... If it makes it easier for folks to enjoy the sport.... Why not?
@@rawrfishing What I stated is absolutely true, that is what zero tension adjustment is. I did not say or imply it's right for everyone and every situation, every setup will have different optimal settings based on rod action, line diameter, lure weight, wind conditions, etc and should be adjusted for.
I found that my Daiwa reels... I never needed to change the tension knob. But if you feel that you need to for your fishing and casting style... Go for it! That's what is for!
What they have setup is how majority of folks can use which is nice! Advanced users are welcome to tinker and fine-tune to what they want. Cheers
it keeps falling off yhr adjuster
@@Hertxa way too loose then. Tighten it as portrayed and enjoy your Daiwa reel
If you do this then there is no tension from the knob so why have it? You need a little tension....
While the name suggests zero tension, there are some even if it's loose.
Magnetic braking reels are not like centrifugal. There are always brakes applied. Thus this method of configuration is fine. Daiwa was the first to figure that one out... But it applies to pretty much all magnetic braking reels.
Give it a shot
This is literally how every baitcast reel works.
Try it with a Shimano slx centrifugal braking system! You will realize that it is not the case! Also check out DC reels. Also not the case!
So they copied shimano
@@Bad_Agent01 nope... Shimano is all about tension knob adjustment based on your thumb skills