Gotten into brewing my own in the last year and moved up to improving my extract kits. Learned about steeping grains etc through this channel. I have done a nice chocolate stout and grapefruit pale ale. Going to give this one a bash next. Subscribed to be a patreon. Feel like I owe you a beer with all this knowledge being shared. Will progress towards doing all grain brews in the future I am sure. Cheers!
Absolutely bloody awesome, I had brewed years ago and the results were pretty much what you would expect from a young bloke in a hurry for a cheap beer. I took brewing up again as my New Years resolution and this was my fourth brew, my other three were pouch jobbies and I tried to hop them up or add some fruit or something to try to make them not taste like home brew and they weren’t bad and definitely drinkable but this NEIPA has hit the mark in every way. This is absolutely lovely and the easy format in which you put this together just adds to the enjoyment. Thanks Gash, I keged this yesterday and brewed your Sierra Nevada clone today. Thanks heaps man, you have given my shed a purpose.
Cheers Gash, great video. In June this year I bought a two keg starting system and set out to replace my main mid (Commercial 4x gold) with home brew. Settled on the Cooper's Real Ale with Cluster Tea. Wasn't long before I had 6 kegs and a Kegorator. I now have completely replaced commercial beer with home brew. I used to also buy a 6 pack of heavy craft beer when I bought my cartons of XXXX gold ($10 on promotion, since I'd spent > $30 on the gold). Now I have several fermentation fridges and I brew IPA, Saison, Pilsners etc at around 6% to compliment my Cooper's real ale. My brews sure don't taste like the home brew I made many years ago using nothing but extract, sugar and the yeast on the top of the can. Once I had a stockpile of hops and grains, it became easy to create my own variants. I have been either using fresh wort, or BIAB with extract. Your video showed me a different method that I've not tried so I am excited to give it a go. I agree with you, S04 is dodgy, S05 get's the job done :-) Cheers Mate.
I don't mind it at all, its more bitter than some of the commercial examples, but then I didnt like most of them hahaha Just a cloudy IPA, reckon you could drop the whole mash and do it with LDM and it would still taste great... HOPS MAXIMUS :) hahaha Cheers Stass
Just brewed this mini mash, I mean steep... What an upgrade from extract! If this turns out alright, I can see a very fast changeover to all grain. Love your work Gash!
thanks for putting this up, so far only been doing can kits, had some good ones so far, but just bought a keg setup and going to christen it with one of these! Thanks for putting so much quality content up to guide us newbies!
Making it look easy with the smaller vessel, was on the edge of my seat waiting for that pot to boil over! Right on the edge of over topping your sparge kettle too. Riveting piece of video. Love watching you make it happen!
I know you have some bigger brew kettles! Thanks for keeping it real and encouraging more folks to get involved. Your videos continue to inspire.. Big hugs from Vermont
Gday Gash, I recently had a go at this recipe but tweaked it a bit using Colombus hops boiled for 20 min , I used Marris Otter 1kg and Pale ale malt 500g steeped at about 67 but it dropped a bit so I added a bigass handfull of sucrose to make sure I had a decent OG , Used Mosaic and Citra dry hopped in a fermzilla at 10 psi , Closed loop transfer and mate, bloody amazing , tastes grapefruit hoppy malty goodness, hazy as because of the porridge , kick ass 7.4 ABV. I owe you a jar of honey mate, keep up the good work! Gazza
Cheers Dave, I gotta be honest I reckon its best extract beer I've ever tasted by anyone, ever, I've been brewing over 30 years.. Maybe I'm biased.. Some stouts are good but I really liked this. Cheers mate!
@@HomeBrewNetwork end to end your video was great. Just what you need if your stepping up to AG. I do love a porter or a stout if you've got an immediate / mini mash video up your sleeve? Keep up the good work!
So it’s been bottled about a month or so now I did the squeeze bottle thing to get the air out I sat it in the fridge for a few days and drank two bottles this afternoon and it’s awesome probably the best beer I’ve had Cheers gash
I've never brewed with grain or even tried a NEIPA but after watching this I got all inspired. In 9lt water I added 1.5kg pale ale, 370g Cara/crystal, 300g oats and 60g galaxy + 60g cascade at 1 min. Threw it into the fermenter with a can of APA + a can of light malt. Topped up to 23lt. OG 1.055. Finished with can yeast + US05. Next level! You the man!
Great demo Gash! I've done this type of steep many times in the same size pot and it works very well! Guys and gal's get into steeping its very easy especially after the great man's demo's! Cheers mate
Great vids I followed your instructions just used 150g cascade hops and I added 200g of sugar to get the points up Pitched the yeast and away she goes ilm message back on the out come in a month or so 👍🏻
Nice one buddy. Just done a version of this but added some wheat dme and 75g Amarillo & 75g El Dorado. Will dry hop at high krausen then later Came in at 1.068. Thanks mate. I really enjoy your vids
I just made this thanks to your video 1500g grain i did a mix of 2 NZ American PA grain and light crystal malt grain, 350g quick oats 5L 70°C water leave for 1hour covered in blankets to keep warm. Drain bag and rinse with more water aprox 3 or 4 more L. Boil for 15min flame out add 1L cold water then 100g off hops stir and leave for 15 more minutes. Cool and add to fermenter. I also added 500g extra light malt powder, 1x coopers Pale ale can and 250g Dextrose. Made 23L aprox 5-6% Alcohol
Kia ora Gash, I have watched this video probably 20 times! Finally put my brew down last week - thanks for the great tutorial and giving us novice brewers the confidence to try this type of brewing. I have limited kit so seeing you in the kitchen with similar stuff to what I have is awesome. I am ready to dry hop soon...cant wait to try this! Thanks heaps.
Nice video, Im yet to jump on the NEIPA train. Tho I did try a blood orange NEIPA just recently and it tasted amazing. Maybe I will give something like yours a go. Glad to see you are still making videos! Cheers.
Gday mate, Mine is more like a cloudy IPA its not like the ones with no bitterness, bit hard with the coopers tin already having bitterness. I'm not a huge fan of a lot of the NEIPAs Ive tried. Cheers!
Yep makes sense! Ill pick up a 15 or 20L pot i reckon then. I cant wait to taste this beer. Ill message again when its ready and let u know how it goes
i bought a 44 gallon of coopers wheat malt for $10.00 at a u brew it auction it brews ok but has an old taste to it nice on pancakes too but mix it with a fresh grain and a can of coopers pale its ok i use it as fertilizer too on the fruit trees
Thanks for this video, I was really surprised how little temp you lost after an hour in that pot, gives me a whole lot of confidence in doing a partial mash with what I already have!
I love your approach to brewing, there's too many videos where everything has to be perfect, your laid back attitude just makes me so much less worried about messing something up! Im going to do an all grain NEIPA next week when I have an empty fermenter, would you think citra, cascade, amarillo and mandarina bavaria would make a nice brew? That's what I have in open hops in the freezer and it needs using up!
did it with a bit more grains 1.5kg & 600g dex other then that followed your recipe. My brew efficiency ended up being way higher then the calculator predicted so that helped. Also added 5 mangoes pureed at day 7 after primary had died down for a further week. My little tweaks but worked out a treat. Cheers Gash
Hey Gash, You said this brew was a bit bitter. Would it work to use same recipe but with unhopped tin instead of cooper pre hopped tin? Great channel by the way. Got ur Coopers Hoppy Pale Ale in primary now...looking and smelling amazing
Hey Gash. Great vid, thanks. Just did the brew and have a lot of sediment in FV. Using coopers kit, and sediment sits higher than the tap. I expect this to reduce with fermentation, but wondering what your thoughts are on stirring sediment back through just prior to bottling? Wondering if it’ll help with the haze in each bottle, rather than just the last 5, or if not recommended. Thanks again for the great work! Ren
Hi Gash, love the vid - going to have a crack at this during the week. One question I had, I've only got the bigger 19L pot - is there any downside to using the bigger pot rather than the smaller one? Cheers!
Awesome video! I love your she'll be right attitude, keeps the fun and creativity in the brew experience. Been wanting to try full grain but dont have the gear yet, this is a great next step. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Hey Gash, I brewed this a few weeks ago, and it turned out amazing. At the beginning you mention you made an all grain version of this. I was just wondering if you had shared this recipe? Would be keen to give it a crack👌👌
Hey Gash I'm about to make this tonight almost a year after watching! I'll be putting it into bottles at the end, no keg. How much dextrose per 750ml long neck would you recommend? Cheers mate!
I put this down in my fv about 5 days ago now had it fermenting at 18degrees. Added 1 lot of dry hops. And will look to put the second lot in on day 7. How long should this ferment for? And also this will be my first kegged beer (half corny keg) how much head space are you supposed to leave in a keg?
Absolute legend Gash! I've been looking around for an extract based NEIPA recipe do thank you! A couple of questions if I may. What are you thoughts on using the Mexican cerveza tin instead? I'm just thinking it might give less bitterness. Also what are your thoughts on using safale s33? I know it's usually for Belgian beers, but fermentis state it's their most appropriate yeast for NEIPAs, mainly due to the tropical fruit flavor it imparts
I havent looked at kit bitterness for over 10 years I think, but the pale ale used to be the least bitter out of all, and if any others are less it would be so tiny as not to matter, I use the pale because I prefer the flavour, though that probably doesnt matter in this beer lol, you can lessen the grain a little if this is too much to handle, otherwise, good luck! Cheers! This recipe beat all grain beers in a comp my friend put it in lol
You dont want it in when the steep is happening etc the higher the gravity the less hop utilisation, get less bitterness etc from the hops. You could if you wanted to i guess.. Mine wasnt chilled so at the end I wanted to get the wort into the fermenter to cool down quick, so adding it at the end would of slowed all that.. You can do the steep and beer with just LDME if you want too. .. No hard fast rules, just gotta be careful of bitterness using this many hops. Cheers!
Hi mate...thanks for this video. Nice to see a laid back approach .I tried this last year with great results.. I'm revisiting again this year but I'm going to try and increase the OG. How do the non fermentables affect the OG (is the reading slightly higher than if no hops were added) I'm aiming for FG of around 5.5 -6 % . Cheers
Non fermentables raise the OG, but of course also raise the finishing gravity, so add virtually no alcohol. Hops do not affect gravity at all. Gravity is the measurement of sugars in the wort/beer.
Hey Gash, i have taken some inspiration from your channel and have planned my first partial mash. I am aiming for a hoppy pale ale with some guts ie malt profile. HERET'IS: MALTS: 1kg pilsner malt, 250g crystal, 500g LDME, 1.5KG light LME. 200g Dextrose HOP SCHEDULE: 1st: 15min 10g Galaxy, 10g Cascade, 10g Amarillo 2nd: 1min 20g Galaxy, 20g Cascade 3rd: dry 7th day 20g Amarillo 4th: dry 10th day 20g Amarillo COLD CRASH: Day 12 KEG: Day 14 DRINK: Day 28 (ish)
Hey Gash, love your vids dude. Hey how long do you leave it at final gravity before kegging it? And do you cold crash before kegging, or no need? I feel dumb asking, I know it's meant to be hazy, but do you filter it at all or use anything to clear stuff in suspension?
Just a day or so at FG and then I cold crashed, it just helps the hops drop out. I didnt filter at all, though if you are worried about hops getting into your keg you could try and filter very carefully, but you'll possibly end up oxidising it . Cheers mate
I'd say if your water is good for drinking then it shouldn't be a problem. If in doubt you could pre boil some and then cool. Probably the easiest way is to buy bottled water and put them in the fridge,it'll also cool everything down quickly. 👍🍺
How much you dry hop is up to you, if you want big go a double dry hop 100g high Krausen, 100g near the very end, same blend as the steep hops. If you go big make sure you cold crash for 3 days at least and don’t get any into your keg or bottles. If you want it a bit lighter go 50g each dry hop. Same ratios. But you can mix hops up if you like.. cascade, Amarillo, el dorado, mosaic, citra, azzaca.. citra is always my favourite. Think about your fermenter and if it can actually take 200g dry hop and allow you to empty it with out picking up hop matter. Cheers!
Hi Gash, I loved the video and want to follow it, just a question, if I have a small fermenter like 10 litres, how much of water should I use for the mesh? I can do the calculations to reduce quantity for the hops, extract and dry malt but I'm unsure with regards of the quantity of water.... or it should be a matter of keeping the same litres that you used but not adding extra water in the end? Would that affect the flavour?
its more about mash consistency really, loose porridge.. umm maybe look at the grain:water ratio from my recipe and convert it over, sorry I dont remember what that was off the top of my head, simple to work out though.
Hey Gash, what is the FG supposed to be? My OG was 1051, same as yours in the video...but after 7 days it's pretty much finished bubbling, chucked in the second dry hop anyway (did half at day 4) and it's sitting at 1012...what did yours get down to?
:P Basic recipe here, will be detailed instructions etc up in the next few days www.cellardweller.net/index.php/forum/india-pale-ale/701-coopers-neipa Thanks for watching Jake! Cheers!
Hey Gash! thanks again for your hard work... quick question... Ive got 3 regular sized kegs now and want to fill them as i follow your vids... should i get a second fermenter and do 2 mashs at the same time and pour both fermenters into it after its done or should i just keep one fermenter going and half fill the kegs each time?
There's a few different ways you could do it, yep you could brew two batches at once which is probably the easiest, or you could half fill without much issue. You could also brew one batch, half fill and then top that keg up with a second batch later. There's probably another few ways, it's really up to you mate as long as your careful along the way it'll be fine. There's no definite answer except what works for you, Cheers mate!
Hi mate Been following your videos and find them very informative. Thanks. Do you have an all grain receipe for the NEIPA that can be used on the Robobrew gen 3, include hop schedule, mash temp/time, boil time, recommended yeast and any dry hopping? I have made an all grain NEIPA and spent a lot of time on it but the results were ordinary to say the least. Thanks again.
I havent really documented my recipes for it, I just sub out some of the grain bill of my pale ale recipes with some quick oats maybe 500g, and only other differences for my usual recipes is I double dry hop, so probably on day3 and then day7, day 10 its usually done and cold crashed, kegged by day 12 or 13. Follow your yeast of course. If you've had failed attempts in the past I'd look at your water profile and also avoiding any possible oxidation, no secondary, no splashing etc. Heres a published example from BYO magazine. New England IPA (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) OG = 1.061 FG = 1.012 IBU = 56 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.5% Ingredients 9 lbs. (4.1 kg) US 2-row malt 2 lbs. (0.91 kg) UK Golden Promise malt 1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked wheat 12 oz. (340 g) flaked oats 12.9 AAU Amarillo® hops (first wort hop) (1.5 oz./43 g at 8.6% alpha acids) 1.5 oz. (43 g) Amarillo® hops (0 min.) 1 oz. (28 g) Citra® hops (hop stand) 1 oz. (28 g) GalaxyTM hops (hop stand) 1 oz. (28 g) Mosaic® hops (hop stand) 3 oz. (85 g) Citra® hops (dry hop) 1.5 oz. (43 g) GalaxyTM hops (dry hop) 1.5 oz. (43 g) Mosaic® hops (dry hop) GigaYeast GY054 (Vermont IPA) or White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) yeast 3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming) Step by Step On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grains, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5 at room temperature. Add 3⁄4 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) and 1⁄4 tsp. calcium sulfate (CaSO4) to the mash. On brew day, mash in all the grains at 152 °F (67 °C) in 5 gallons (19 L) of water, and hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature by infusion or direct heating to 168 °F (76 °C) to mashout. Recirculate for 15 minutes. Fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected. Boil the wort for 75 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. The first wort hops are added to the kettle just before lautering begins. The 0 minute hops get added right after the heat is turned off. Stir the wort gently and allow to cool to 180 °F (82 °C) then add the hop stand hops. Allow to stand for 20 minutes then chill to 64 °F (18 °C) and rack to the fermenter. Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast. Start fermentation at 64 °F (18 °C), allowing temperature to rise naturally as fermentation progresses. Mix the dry hops and divide into three equal portions. The first portion gets added after two days of active fermentation. The second portion gets added at the end of fermentation. The third portion gets added three days after fermentation ends. Allow each dry hop addition to be in contact with the beer for two to three days, then remove. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes. Do not filter or fine the beer.
Ingredients & Methods This beer style is hop-driven, but the choice of specific hop varieties and methods used to extract their best qualities is paramount to the success of the recipe. To get the tropical fruit character, you’ll have to use modern hop varieties such as Citra®, Mosaic®, GalaxyTM, Azacca®, El Dorado, or newer experimental varieties that may only be known by a number. Hop descriptors aren’t standardized, so you may wish to try small batch experiments before relying too heavily on expensive, untried varieties. Hopping methods should be selected that avoid deriving too much bitterness from the hops while maximizing the extraction and preservation of positive hop oils. That’s a big problem since the way you get more of a hoppy character is to add more hops. Using first wort hopping instead of a traditional boil addition can give a smoother bitterness and more hop flavor. Omitting traditional boil additions up until the last 15-20 minutes can reduce harshness extracted from the vegetal matter in hops. Adding most of the hops at the end of the boil, at knockout, or in the whirlpool can retain more of the hop oils while reducing the bitterness extracted from the hops. One whirlpool trick is to allow the wort to cool down from the boiling point since this will reduce the utilization rate of hops. This hasn’t been exactly determined, but I try to let the temperature reduce to 180 °F (82 °C) or less. Not all recipe software will calculate this effect properly (some will show zero utilization of hops added at knockout, for instance), so don’t overdo your main bittering additions. Dry hopping is the biggest driver of hop character in this style. Multiple dry hop additions add a more complex character. Keep the additions in contact with the beer for a shorter time frame (2-3 days, perhaps) to focus on the hop oils without getting too much of the vegetal/grassy character from hops. One area of new research is dry hopping during active fermentation in the hopes of achieving biotransformation of the hop oils. This basically means certain hop oils will be transformed by metabolic pathways of yeast into different chemicals with additional fruity properties. This phenomenon is not well understood or characterized, so some amount of trial and error is still being used. The grist for this style is relatively simple. Mostly neutral base malt is used, although some characterful pale ale type base malts may join the party. Caramel flavors are not desirable, so any crystal type malts should be used with great restraint and mostly in the paler color range. I leave them out of my recipes, but that’s the same thing I do with my normal IPAs too. Additional body is gained through the use of unmalted grains such as flaked wheat and oats. This practice is becoming more common in modern IPAs, but New England IPAs will use a higher percentage of these adjuncts. Simple mash programs are commonplace; I would avoid intensive step mashes since the additional body-building starches in the adjuncts are desirable. I have heard of some recipes using raw starch, fruit purees, and other similar additives in the attempts to add haze and fruit character. The haze in this style is from the dry hopping process, not adding raw starch. Fruitiness comes from the hop choices, techniques, and biotransformation, not adding fruit. The yeast selection is a matter open to debate. This style can be made with neutral or fruity American or English yeast. However, some swear by special strains derived from some of the well-known commercial producers. These products are available from some smaller yeast suppliers, such as GigaYeast GY054 Vermont IPA, Yeast Bay VT Ale Strain, or Omega Yeast Lab OYL-052 DIPA Ale. White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) and Wyeast 1318 (London III) are also popular. Nothing special needs to be done with the yeast, except perhaps allowing it to rise in temperature towards the end of fermentation to make sure it finishes strong and reduces any diacetyl present. Using other ester-producing techniques such as underpitching, using open fermenters, and fermenting warmer are not necessary. Try the biotransformation technique to see the effect of enhanced fruitiness before adding any other steps. The water profile for this style is another matter open to debate among brewers. Some go quite heavy on the calcium chloride, which can give the beer a “wet” character. Some like to use some calcium sulfate to balance the bite. I prefer to go low on minerals in general, but you can tweak the balance of chloride to sulfate to help get the character you want. I don’t want the sulfur character from too much sulfate, so avoid Burtonizing the water. I can see increasing the calcium sulfate level rather than manipulating mash temperatures as the way to fine-tune the dryness of the beer. Homebrew Example The example I’m providing below follows the recommendations in this article fairly closely. I have made American IPAs with the same hops, so I do have a preference for modern IPAs with a tropical fruit character. But instead of using my normal Munich malt for a little more body, color, and flavor, I’m using flaked wheat and oats to give it some extra body. Golden Promise adds a little more malt interest to the neutral 2-row base malt I chose. A simple infusion mash will accomplish my goals, so I won’t use anything more involved. I have a preference for calcium chloride in my water treatments, but I’m adding a touch of calcium sulfate to give it a slight bite. I certainly don’t want a minerally character in my beer. Amarillo® hops are one of my favorites, and they add a distinctive apricot flavor to the beer. They are the lowest alpha acid of the hops I’m using so I’ll use them for bitterness. I’ll save the tropical fruit hops for the late hopping. I’m using Citra®, which has a mango-guava character, GalaxyTM, which brings the passionfruit, and Mosaic®, which provides pineapple. Together, they should have the tropical fruit salad experience I want. The hop techniques I’m using are a variation of my normal methods. I frequently use first wort hopping for a smooth bitterness and hop flavor, so no surprises there. I’m following this with hop bursting the knockout and whirlpool additions, including waiting for the whirlpool to cool off enough to minimize bitterness extraction. I’m selecting one of the well-known yeast strains for this style, hoping for some extra biotransformation of the hop oils. To encourage this, I’m using three equal dry hop additions, with one of them during active fermentation. I’ll limit the dry hopping to three days for each addition, taking care to avoid oxygen uptake during the process. As soon as the last dry hops are pulled, I would keg and serve as quickly as possible to get the most fresh hop character. I know the hop choices are expensive and popular, so they may be hard to find. But if you want the tropical character to shine, these are your best choices. Freshness of the hops is important, so make sure they aren’t oxidized before you use them (check that the hop cones are still green, and the lupulin is yellow not orange).
Good video. I actually just bought a 15L pot and have been wondering how I can use it to improve my kit beers so this is great. And cheers for pointing out the paint strainer bags from bunnings. I'd never have thought to look there.
The pale it is the least bitter out of them all, I'd suggest swapping the galaxy with mosaic and not using the centennial in the steep. So steep would be 40g of Citra 40g of Mosaic. If you really want to lower the bitterness when you do the steep chill the wort to
Brewed this and my friends loved it , thanks heaps ! Just wondering do I need to balance the alpha acid amounts when switching the hops in this ? I did for the brew I did ( using topaz , citra and wai -tai) but wondering if all that maths was necessary seeing as they arent being boiled.
Someone wrote them out here in the thread, let me know if you'd like it more detailed, Cheers! www.cellardweller.net/index.php/en/forum/india-pale-ale/701-coopers-neipa?start=40
few questions. Lady at home brew shop said mash ph is important and sold me a buffer to make it close to 5.2. It wasn't expensive and sounded important so should I be using that. Also does the pot, bag and everything that will touch the mini mash need sanitising beforehand. I only have a basic no rinse sanitiser so hopefully that does it. Thanks
Stuff in the mini mash just has to be clean and rinsed of soap etc because the wort or beer is going to be boiled afterwards. 5.2 buffer, it wont hurt, but as you get better at things it wont be needed, we'll do that other ways.. Bloody home brew shops selling stuff that really isnt needed, at least for this beer, but use it since you have it, it might help a touch. After the boil is where everything needs to be sanitised. Cheers!
Hey Gash, What is the largest amount of grain you think you could mash in the 20L stock pot this way? I've had good success with under 2kg but keen to try 4-5kg and see what it produces. Cheers
@@HomeBrewNetwork 5kg was absolutely pushing it, my efficiency dropped off significantly and the paint strainer could barely hold it in. I would try 4kg in the future but I think 2kg and a tin of extract is a much better combination. I'll just have to upgrade to a bigger pot for future mashes!
You'd just have to add it at the same time as the other hops, hmm how much is up to you, maybe use 2/3 mosaic and galaxy or whatever other one you like for the rest. Cheers!
I have a couple more questions for you if you wouldn't mind. Is it advisable to cold crash this brew? And what about finings? I add gelatine to my CC because my fridge wont go below 4 or 5°C.
Im planning to do this brew next weekend if my grain mill arrives on time. I have 100g of citra and galaxy and about 60g of cadcade. I was thinking 40g of citra and galaxy at the steep like you did and then 2 stages of dry hops using 30g each time to total 100g of citra and galaxy. My question is im not sure how much cascade i should use. I would like a little to break it up. Would 15g at the steep and 15 in both dry hop be over doing it do you think? This is only my second time using additional hops so i havn't had the experience to know these things. And one other question :D whats the benefits of dry hopping twice? One at high krausen and one near the end of fermentation? I was planning on using my strainer bag for dry hoping but i cant imagine having 2 bags in at once being desirable unless i add my 2nd dry hop pellets to the first?
Cascade is pretty good mate, not too strong but lots of flavour, chuck it in as you said, should be fine. You'll get more into style with doing the dry hop during ferment, and then again at the end, it should come out with the classic cloudiness and other characteristics of the style. 2 bags will be fine, make sure you have heaps of space in the bags for when the hops expand, I dont use bags myself, but no harm in it at all and will make things easier on transfer and having to worry about hop bits getting into everything. what you have planned sounds great. To get even closer to style is to get the boiled wort temp down lowish before the steep, where I added a touch of cold water, I could of added more but I ran out of space. It depends what you want out of the beer, I like a bit of bitterness in my NEIPAS thats why I didnt worry too much about waiting and getting the steep temp down, but if you want to be true and limit the bitterness its good to do the steep at about 80c.. So the two dry hops does really help for the style, but if you dont you'll still get a bloody great beer out of it. Does that make sense?
Are there any commercial NEIPA's this compares to? I brewed it a few weeks ago with Coopers Bootmaker Pale but don't like the taste, going to have another crack with the exact ingredients and yeast you use here. Would love something loosely comparable to see if my flavours are correct. Cheers mate!
No it's not a clone at all, but saying that it's very common ingredients for an NEIPA. Guess something like a jedi juice. Though jedi uses Nelson Sauvin fairly heavily. NEIPA is one of the hardest of all styles to get right. Make sure timings are right and don't leave the hops in the hot wort for any longer, if timing is an issue it would be worth getting the wort down to 75c before doing the hop steep. Take a lot of care when packaging, no bulk priming, no shaking bottles, best in PET bottles. If you keg no splashing and best to enclose transfer. CHEERS!
i put the whole thing with a lid on in my big esky and pour 2 ketles of boiling water in the esky around it. shut it up and it will slowly raise about 2 degrees over the hour
Even though this is in a way "unprofessional" and please dont take this the wrong way... but like compared to your normal videos. But still HELL of a LOT of information in this video if you already know your shit! Thumbs up
I never did a full brew video, adds a few hours to a brew day and I just havent had time, the end of the brew day where I talk briefly about it was this one ua-cam.com/video/liOsI0FBatw/v-deo.html was basically a typical pale/ipa recipe with 400g of oats and 120g whirlpool addition for 15mins just like the extract version. Cheers mate!
Yeah its a got a bit, thats the way I like them, only so much you can do with a coopers can, but you can reduce the bitterness by making sure when you do the hop steep that the wort is below 80c. That way the only bitterness at all comes from the coopers can, there may be some perceived bitterness just from the taste of the hops but thats it. Cheers!
Gotten into brewing my own in the last year and moved up to improving my extract kits. Learned about steeping grains etc through this channel.
I have done a nice chocolate stout and grapefruit pale ale.
Going to give this one a bash next.
Subscribed to be a patreon.
Feel like I owe you a beer with all this knowledge being shared.
Will progress towards doing all grain brews in the future I am sure.
Cheers!
Fantastic as always, Gash. Turning this modern-day holy cow into a kit version is brilliant.
Cheers Count Drunkula and thanks for watching!
The best how-to brewing video I've seen so far. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Great vid, live in an apartment been sticking with FWKs and tins gonna give this a go
Absolutely bloody awesome, I had brewed years ago and the results were pretty much what you would expect from a young bloke in a hurry for a cheap beer. I took brewing up again as my New Years resolution and this was my fourth brew, my other three were pouch jobbies and I tried to hop them up or add some fruit or something to try to make them not taste like home brew and they weren’t bad and definitely drinkable but this NEIPA has hit the mark in every way. This is absolutely lovely and the easy format in which you put this together just adds to the enjoyment. Thanks Gash, I keged this yesterday and brewed your Sierra Nevada clone today. Thanks heaps man, you have given my shed a purpose.
Great to hear mate, and thanks for watching. Cheers!
Inspirational video, I’m enthused to try this technique. Thanks.
Cheers Gash, great video. In June this year I bought a two keg starting system and set out to replace my main mid (Commercial 4x gold) with home brew. Settled on the Cooper's Real Ale with Cluster Tea. Wasn't long before I had 6 kegs and a Kegorator. I now have completely replaced commercial beer with home brew. I used to also buy a 6 pack of heavy craft beer when I bought my cartons of XXXX gold ($10 on promotion, since I'd spent > $30 on the gold). Now I have several fermentation fridges and I brew IPA, Saison, Pilsners etc at around 6% to compliment my Cooper's real ale. My brews sure don't taste like the home brew I made many years ago using nothing but extract, sugar and the yeast on the top of the can. Once I had a stockpile of hops and grains, it became easy to create my own variants. I have been either using fresh wort, or BIAB with extract. Your video showed me a different method that I've not tried so I am excited to give it a go. I agree with you, S04 is dodgy, S05 get's the job done :-)
Cheers Mate.
Great story mate! and Cheers to you!
Thanks for doing what you do for all of us. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family. Cheers mate 🍻
Thanks very much, and a Merry Christmas too you too mate, Cheers!
Cheers Gash. Might have to give this a whirl while I get me full brew setup back into gear. Looking forward to hear how this turns out!
I don't mind it at all, its more bitter than some of the commercial examples, but then I didnt like most of them hahaha Just a cloudy IPA, reckon you could drop the whole mash and do it with LDM and it would still taste great... HOPS MAXIMUS :) hahaha Cheers Stass
This is awesome I've just been getting into NEIPA they're so delicious, great video!
Cheers mate, thanks for watching!
Just brewed this mini mash, I mean steep... What an upgrade from extract! If this turns out alright, I can see a very fast changeover to all grain. Love your work Gash!
Good luck mate, it should be great , cheers!
thanks for putting this up, so far only been doing can kits, had some good ones so far, but just bought a keg setup and going to christen it with one of these!
Thanks for putting so much quality content up to guide us newbies!
Cheers Liam!
@@HomeBrewNetwork as an FYI Turned out tops!! all my mates are stoked to drop by and steal a free schooner of this epic HAZY
@@liamarthur7488 awesome, got a West Coast IPA coming up shortly with a Cooper's tin. Cheers
👍👍 haven’t done a tin for a while. Might give this a go. Been liking the NEIPA style this year. Good work Gash!
Turned out pretty good! Cheers mate
Making it look easy with the smaller vessel, was on the edge of my seat waiting for that pot to boil over! Right on the edge of over topping your sparge kettle too. Riveting piece of video. Love watching you make it happen!
hahaha Cheers mate, thanks for watching!
I know you have some bigger brew kettles! Thanks for keeping it real and encouraging more folks to get involved. Your videos continue to inspire.. Big hugs from Vermont
Cheers and thanks for the hug! :)
Gday Gash, I recently had a go at this recipe but tweaked it a bit using Colombus hops boiled for 20 min , I used Marris Otter 1kg and Pale ale malt 500g steeped at about 67 but it dropped a bit so I added a bigass handfull of sucrose to make sure I had a decent OG , Used Mosaic and Citra dry hopped in a fermzilla at 10 psi , Closed loop transfer and mate, bloody amazing , tastes grapefruit hoppy malty goodness, hazy as because of the porridge , kick ass 7.4 ABV. I owe you a jar of honey mate, keep up the good work! Gazza
Great vid Mate.Looks like and awesome mini mash NEIPA recipie.Im going to try it.
I did this the other day, with a 20 litre pot from big W! I’ve got to say it’s awesome, the best brew I’ve done so far. Well played sir.
Cheers Dave, I gotta be honest I reckon its best extract beer I've ever tasted by anyone, ever, I've been brewing over 30 years.. Maybe I'm biased.. Some stouts are good but I really liked this. Cheers mate!
@@HomeBrewNetwork end to end your video was great. Just what you need if your stepping up to AG. I do love a porter or a stout if you've got an immediate / mini mash video up your sleeve? Keep up the good work!
So it’s been bottled about a month or so now I did the squeeze bottle thing to get the air out I sat it in the fridge for a few days and drank two bottles this afternoon and it’s awesome probably the best beer I’ve had
Cheers gash
Great to hear mate! Glad you liked it! Cheers!
I've never brewed with grain or even tried a NEIPA but after watching this I got all inspired. In 9lt water I added 1.5kg pale ale, 370g Cara/crystal, 300g oats and 60g galaxy + 60g cascade at 1 min. Threw it into the fermenter with a can of APA + a can of light malt. Topped up to 23lt. OG 1.055. Finished with can yeast + US05. Next level! You the man!
Excellent mate, great to hear! Cheers!
I`ll be having a go at this at the weekend might tweet those hops around but it looks amazing can`t wait to try taste the final brew !
For sure tweak them, I was just clearing out the freezer, I would of liked some different ones in there, but it still turned out good. Cheers!
It was an awesome brew ! I`ll be making some more this weekend :)
I have learnt so much from your videos! Thank you so much ❤
Happy to help! Cheers mate!
Absolutely fascinating video! I’ve done similar brews with old Mr Beer kits.
Cheers
Just made your NEIPA for the first time .Awesome mini mash recipe.
Thanks Gash
Happy Friday
Cheers 🍻
Thanks and Cheers mate. hope it turned ok for you!
Loved the video and I learnt many things. I would say the best advice to ensure your own personal safety is at 19:09
hahaha yes, true, Cheers Rob!
Top effort Gash, thanks for the share mate. Will have to give this one a go. Cheers.
Cheers Rob!
Great demo Gash!
I've done this type of steep many times in the same size pot and it works very well!
Guys and gal's get into steeping its very easy especially after the great man's demo's! Cheers mate
Thanks for watching Nick!
Thanks very much for the info. I appreciate your help.
Great vids
I followed your instructions just used 150g cascade hops and I added 200g of sugar to get the points up
Pitched the yeast and away she goes ilm message back on the out come in a month or so 👍🏻
Excellent mate, I just had a friend come second in a home brew competition with this brew and he just used a no name woolies tin hahaha Cheers!
This is what we've been missing,, nice one Gav.
Cheers Pete, thanks for watching.
I've been wanting to try this type of brewing. Great easy video, thanks mate. Cheers 🤙🍻
You should! Cheers mate!
Nice one buddy. Just done a version of this but added some wheat dme and 75g Amarillo & 75g El Dorado. Will dry hop at high krausen then later Came in at 1.068. Thanks mate. I really enjoy your vids
Hope its great Franky, cheers mate!
Thanks for this video Gash!
I just made this thanks to your video 1500g grain i did a mix of 2 NZ American PA grain and light crystal malt grain, 350g quick oats 5L 70°C water leave for 1hour covered in blankets to keep warm. Drain bag and rinse with more water aprox 3 or 4 more L. Boil for 15min flame out add 1L cold water then 100g off hops stir and leave for 15 more minutes. Cool and add to fermenter. I also added 500g extra light malt powder, 1x coopers Pale ale can and 250g Dextrose. Made 23L aprox 5-6% Alcohol
In the fermenter now and its looking so good
Awesome mate, good luck!
Great Video. really informative thanks.
Kia ora Gash, I have watched this video probably 20 times! Finally put my brew down last week - thanks for the great tutorial and giving us novice brewers the confidence to try this type of brewing. I have limited kit so seeing you in the kitchen with similar stuff to what I have is awesome. I am ready to dry hop soon...cant wait to try this! Thanks heaps.
hope it turned out good mate!
How did your version of this come out
Paint bag and Big W pot. Great no-nonsense approach!
thats what I used for years! Cheers Gavan thanks for watching mate
Merry Christmas Gash.
From Sweden.
Thanks very much mate and Merry Christmas to you! Cheers!
Nice video, Im yet to jump on the NEIPA train. Tho I did try a blood orange NEIPA just recently and it tasted amazing. Maybe I will give something like yours a go. Glad to see you are still making videos! Cheers.
Gday mate, Mine is more like a cloudy IPA its not like the ones with no bitterness, bit hard with the coopers tin already having bitterness. I'm not a huge fan of a lot of the NEIPAs Ive tried. Cheers!
Some guys in my brew group do close to 300g in the dry hop, I am still yet to justify it! That's enough for 3 batches minimum!
Yeah I didnt want o scare some people too much lol and I have troubles affording it anyway! hahaha Cheers mate
Love the shirt, I loves me some Metallica and AC/DC.
Another good one mate.well done.
Thanks Jimmy!
Yep makes sense! Ill pick up a 15 or 20L pot i reckon then. I cant wait to taste this beer. Ill message again when its ready and let u know how it goes
good stuff mate, make sure you do!
i bought a 44 gallon of coopers wheat malt for $10.00 at a u brew it auction it brews ok but has an old taste to it nice on pancakes too but mix it with a fresh grain and a can of coopers pale its ok i use it as fertilizer too on the fruit trees
Thanks for this video, I was really surprised how little temp you lost after an hour in that pot, gives me a whole lot of confidence in doing a partial mash with what I already have!
No worries mate, what really helps besides the towels lol is limit the headspace, less air in there the warmer it will keep. Cheers!
Greatly idea and great video.
Cheers Dog Window!! :)
I've gotta do this recipe looks incredible
It is a tasty little recipe! Cheers mate!
Gash Slugg what is the % of alcohol on this?
It ended about up 5.3% Cheers
I love your approach to brewing, there's too many videos where everything has to be perfect, your laid back attitude just makes me so much less worried about messing something up! Im going to do an all grain NEIPA next week when I have an empty fermenter, would you think citra, cascade, amarillo and mandarina bavaria would make a nice brew? That's what I have in open hops in the freezer and it needs using up!
That sounds perfect mate, thanks for watching, cheers!
Awesome vid, definitely going to give this a crack! Question though, I may have just missed it but what grain did you use and how much?
Great recipe! just tried mine tonight came out 7.5% stoked with the results tho awesome neipa. Cheers!
7.5% wow how did you manage that? Cheers mate!
did it with a bit more grains 1.5kg & 600g dex other then that followed your recipe. My brew efficiency ended up being way higher then the calculator predicted so that helped. Also added 5 mangoes pureed at day 7 after primary had died down for a further week. My little tweaks but worked out a treat. Cheers Gash
@@HomeBrewNetwork what your abv come out at from this video?
Hey Gash,
You said this brew was a bit bitter. Would it work to use same recipe but with unhopped tin instead of cooper pre hopped tin? Great channel by the way. Got ur Coopers Hoppy Pale Ale in primary now...looking and smelling amazing
Hey Gash. Great vid, thanks.
Just did the brew and have a lot of sediment in FV. Using coopers kit, and sediment sits higher than the tap.
I expect this to reduce with fermentation, but wondering what your thoughts are on stirring sediment back through just prior to bottling? Wondering if it’ll help with the haze in each bottle, rather than just the last 5, or if not recommended.
Thanks again for the great work!
Ren
Hi Gash, love the vid - going to have a crack at this during the week.
One question I had, I've only got the bigger 19L pot - is there any downside to using the bigger pot rather than the smaller one?
Cheers!
Awesome video! I love your she'll be right attitude, keeps the fun and creativity in the brew experience. Been wanting to try full grain but dont have the gear yet, this is a great next step. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Much appreciated, thanks a lot. Cheers!
I love your shirt
Hey Gash,
I brewed this a few weeks ago, and it turned out amazing. At the beginning you mention you made an all grain version of this. I was just wondering if you had shared this recipe? Would be keen to give it a crack👌👌
Plus you are a LEGEND!
Hi all, has anyone used Lorel hops in the brew? and if so how did it turn out? P.S LOVE your work GASH!!!!
Hey Gash I'm about to make this tonight almost a year after watching! I'll be putting it into bottles at the end, no keg. How much dextrose per 750ml long neck would you recommend? Cheers mate!
Love the shirt
Great video!
Thanks for watching and cheers!
I put this down in my fv about 5 days ago now had it fermenting at 18degrees. Added 1 lot of dry hops. And will look to put the second lot in on day 7. How long should this ferment for? And also this will be my first kegged beer (half corny keg) how much head space are you supposed to leave in a keg?
Absolute legend Gash! I've been looking around for an extract based NEIPA recipe do thank you! A couple of questions if I may. What are you thoughts on using the Mexican cerveza tin instead? I'm just thinking it might give less bitterness. Also what are your thoughts on using safale s33? I know it's usually for Belgian beers, but fermentis state it's their most appropriate yeast for NEIPAs, mainly due to the tropical fruit flavor it imparts
I havent looked at kit bitterness for over 10 years I think, but the pale ale used to be the least bitter out of all, and if any others are less it would be so tiny as not to matter, I use the pale because I prefer the flavour, though that probably doesnt matter in this beer lol, you can lessen the grain a little if this is too much to handle, otherwise, good luck! Cheers! This recipe beat all grain beers in a comp my friend put it in lol
Thanks for the video. Any advantage to adding the DME to the fermenter instead of the boil?
You dont want it in when the steep is happening etc the higher the gravity the less hop utilisation, get less bitterness etc from the hops. You could if you wanted to i guess.. Mine wasnt chilled so at the end I wanted to get the wort into the fermenter to cool down quick, so adding it at the end would of slowed all that.. You can do the steep and beer with just LDME if you want too. .. No hard fast rules, just gotta be careful of bitterness using this many hops. Cheers!
Hi mate...thanks for this video. Nice to see a laid back approach .I tried this last year with great results.. I'm revisiting again this year but I'm going to try and increase the OG. How do the non fermentables affect the OG (is the reading slightly higher than if no hops were added) I'm aiming for FG of around 5.5 -6 % . Cheers
Non fermentables raise the OG, but of course also raise the finishing gravity, so add virtually no alcohol. Hops do not affect gravity at all. Gravity is the measurement of sugars in the wort/beer.
Hey Gash, i have taken some inspiration from your channel and have planned my first partial mash. I am aiming for a hoppy pale ale with some guts ie malt profile. HERET'IS:
MALTS: 1kg pilsner malt, 250g crystal, 500g LDME, 1.5KG light LME. 200g Dextrose
HOP SCHEDULE:
1st: 15min 10g Galaxy, 10g Cascade, 10g Amarillo
2nd: 1min 20g Galaxy, 20g Cascade
3rd: dry 7th day 20g Amarillo
4th: dry 10th day 20g Amarillo
COLD CRASH: Day 12
KEG: Day 14
DRINK: Day 28 (ish)
looks tasty!
how did it turn out mate im just getting into brewing and i made this up the other day cheers from melbourne
Hey Gash, love your vids dude. Hey how long do you leave it at final gravity before kegging it? And do you cold crash before kegging, or no need? I feel dumb asking, I know it's meant to be hazy, but do you filter it at all or use anything to clear stuff in suspension?
Just a day or so at FG and then I cold crashed, it just helps the hops drop out. I didnt filter at all, though if you are worried about hops getting into your keg you could try and filter very carefully, but you'll possibly end up oxidising it . Cheers mate
great video!!
Cheers mate!
Great vid mate!! Where did you get your shirt from?
Hey Gash, when you add cold water to the fermenter, is that sterilised water or does it not matter at that stage?
I'd say if your water is good for drinking then it shouldn't be a problem. If in doubt you could pre boil some and then cool. Probably the easiest way is to buy bottled water and put them in the fridge,it'll also cool everything down quickly. 👍🍺
Hi, could you use Falconers Flight which is a mix of C hops.
Yep I reckon they'd go alright! Cheers mate
Great vid. Trying next week. Any chance of breaking down the best hop variety by weight? And is it 100g hops or 200g total? Cheers
How much you dry hop is up to you, if you want big go a double dry hop 100g high Krausen, 100g near the very end, same blend as the steep hops. If you go big make sure you cold crash for 3 days at least and don’t get any into your keg or bottles. If you want it a bit lighter go 50g each dry hop. Same ratios. But you can mix hops up if you like.. cascade, Amarillo, el dorado, mosaic, citra, azzaca.. citra is always my favourite. Think about your fermenter and if it can actually take 200g dry hop and allow you to empty it with out picking up hop matter. Cheers!
Made this one with galaxy and citra
Omfg
Next level from the extract cans !!!
Will be a permanent on the kegerator for some while
Thanks Mate 🤙🍺
Fantastic! Cheers mate!
Hi Gash, I loved the video and want to follow it, just a question, if I have a small fermenter like 10 litres, how much of water should I use for the mesh? I can do the calculations to reduce quantity for the hops, extract and dry malt but I'm unsure with regards of the quantity of water.... or it should be a matter of keeping the same litres that you used but not adding extra water in the end? Would that affect the flavour?
its more about mash consistency really, loose porridge.. umm maybe look at the grain:water ratio from my recipe and convert it over, sorry I dont remember what that was off the top of my head, simple to work out though.
Hey Gash, what is the FG supposed to be? My OG was 1051, same as yours in the video...but after 7 days it's pretty much finished bubbling, chucked in the second dry hop anyway (did half at day 4) and it's sitting at 1012...what did yours get down to?
...it got to 1011, kegged it and force carbed it at 35 PSI for 24hrs, shook it a few times, and it's bloody delicious!
Good vid top - stuff mate :)
and cheers to you Steve!
Man, great vid. keen for the recipe though so i can give it a try :P
:P Basic recipe here, will be detailed instructions etc up in the next few days www.cellardweller.net/index.php/forum/india-pale-ale/701-coopers-neipa
Thanks for watching Jake! Cheers!
Bloody legend!
Hey Gash! thanks again for your hard work... quick question... Ive got 3 regular sized kegs now and want to fill them as i follow your vids... should i get a second fermenter and do 2 mashs at the same time and pour both fermenters into it after its done or should i just keep one fermenter going and half fill the kegs each time?
There's a few different ways you could do it, yep you could brew two batches at once which is probably the easiest, or you could half fill without much issue. You could also brew one batch, half fill and then top that keg up with a second batch later. There's probably another few ways, it's really up to you mate as long as your careful along the way it'll be fine. There's no definite answer except what works for you, Cheers mate!
in other words get creative hey? legend cheers mate, thanks for the prompt reply... my little beer angel xox
Thats the key, what ever works, Cheers :)
Do you find it hard to hit correct ibu's with small pot?
Ron Wales gday mate. With this brew im not really after ibus. More just flavour. I use beersmith and hop utilisation is factored in. Cheers mate!
Wouldn't you add coopers LME while its boiling to boil out any remaining DMS?
Not necessary you wont get DMS forming from dried malt, good ferment and all will be well, Cheers!
Have you tried the grain from house of malt in Ballarat?
No I havent mate, sorry! Cheers!
Great vid, am trying this today. Do you need to run the grain through a grain mill or use them straight out of the packet ?
The grain needs to be cracked yes, cheers mate!
Do you add the malt when you add the grain?
Malt goes into the fermenter with the tin, after the boiled mash water (wort). Cheers!
Hi mate
Been following your videos and find them very informative. Thanks.
Do you have an all grain receipe for the NEIPA that can be used on the Robobrew gen 3, include hop schedule, mash temp/time, boil time, recommended yeast and any dry hopping?
I have made an all grain NEIPA and spent a lot of time on it but the results were ordinary to say the least.
Thanks again.
I havent really documented my recipes for it, I just sub out some of the grain bill of my pale ale recipes with some quick oats maybe 500g, and only other differences for my usual recipes is I double dry hop, so probably on day3 and then day7, day 10 its usually done and cold crashed, kegged by day 12 or 13. Follow your yeast of course. If you've had failed attempts in the past I'd look at your water profile and also avoiding any possible oxidation, no secondary, no splashing etc. Heres a published example from BYO magazine.
New England IPA
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.061 FG = 1.012
IBU = 56 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.5%
Ingredients
9 lbs. (4.1 kg) US 2-row malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) UK Golden Promise malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked wheat
12 oz. (340 g) flaked oats
12.9 AAU Amarillo® hops (first wort hop) (1.5 oz./43 g at 8.6% alpha acids)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Amarillo® hops (0 min.)
1 oz. (28 g) Citra® hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) GalaxyTM hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) Mosaic® hops (hop stand)
3 oz. (85 g) Citra® hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) GalaxyTM hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Mosaic® hops (dry hop)
GigaYeast GY054 (Vermont IPA) or White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grains, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5 at room temperature. Add 3⁄4 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) and 1⁄4 tsp. calcium sulfate (CaSO4) to the mash.
On brew day, mash in all the grains at 152 °F (67 °C) in 5 gallons (19 L) of water, and hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature by infusion or direct heating to 168 °F (76 °C) to mashout. Recirculate for 15 minutes. Fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected.
Boil the wort for 75 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. The first wort hops are added to the kettle just before lautering begins. The 0 minute hops get added right after the heat is turned off. Stir the wort gently and allow to cool to 180 °F (82 °C) then add the hop stand hops. Allow to stand for 20 minutes then chill to 64 °F (18 °C) and rack to the fermenter.
Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast. Start fermentation at 64 °F (18 °C), allowing temperature to rise naturally as fermentation progresses. Mix the dry hops and divide into three equal portions. The first portion gets added after two days of active fermentation. The second portion gets added at the end of fermentation.
The third portion gets added three days after fermentation ends. Allow each dry hop addition to be in contact with the beer for two to three days, then remove.
Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes. Do not filter or fine the beer.
Ingredients & Methods
This beer style is hop-driven, but the choice of specific hop varieties and methods used to extract their best qualities is paramount to the success of the recipe. To get the tropical fruit character, you’ll have to use modern hop varieties such as Citra®, Mosaic®, GalaxyTM, Azacca®, El Dorado, or newer experimental varieties that may only be known by a number. Hop descriptors aren’t standardized, so you may wish to try small batch experiments before relying too heavily on expensive, untried varieties.
Hopping methods should be selected that avoid deriving too much bitterness from the hops while maximizing the extraction and preservation of positive hop oils. That’s a big problem since the way you get more of a hoppy character is to add more hops. Using first wort hopping instead of a traditional boil addition can give a smoother bitterness and more hop flavor. Omitting traditional boil additions up until the last 15-20 minutes can reduce harshness extracted from the vegetal matter in hops.
Adding most of the hops at the end of the boil, at knockout, or in the whirlpool can retain more of the hop oils while reducing the bitterness extracted from the hops. One whirlpool trick is to allow the wort to cool down from the boiling point since this will reduce the utilization rate of hops. This hasn’t been exactly determined, but I try to let the temperature reduce to 180 °F (82 °C) or less. Not all recipe software will calculate this effect properly (some will show zero utilization of hops added at knockout, for instance), so don’t overdo your main bittering additions.
Dry hopping is the biggest driver of hop character in this style. Multiple dry hop additions add a more complex character. Keep the additions in contact with the beer for a shorter time frame (2-3 days, perhaps) to focus on the hop oils without getting too much of the vegetal/grassy character from hops. One area of new research is dry hopping during active fermentation in the hopes of achieving biotransformation of the hop oils. This basically means certain hop oils will be transformed by metabolic pathways of yeast into different chemicals with additional fruity properties. This phenomenon is not well understood or characterized, so some amount of trial and error is still being used.
The grist for this style is relatively simple. Mostly neutral base malt is used, although some characterful pale ale type base malts may join the party. Caramel flavors are not desirable, so any crystal type malts should be used with great restraint and mostly in the paler color range. I leave them out of my recipes, but that’s the same thing I do with my normal IPAs too. Additional body is gained through the use of unmalted grains such as flaked wheat and oats. This practice is becoming more common in modern IPAs, but New England IPAs will use a higher percentage of these adjuncts. Simple mash programs are commonplace; I would avoid intensive step mashes since the additional body-building starches in the adjuncts are desirable.
I have heard of some recipes using raw starch, fruit purees, and other similar additives in the attempts to add haze and fruit character. The haze in this style is from the dry hopping process, not adding raw starch. Fruitiness comes from the hop choices, techniques, and biotransformation, not adding fruit.
The yeast selection is a matter open to debate. This style can be made with neutral or fruity American or English yeast. However, some swear by special strains derived from some of the well-known commercial producers. These products are available from some smaller yeast suppliers, such as GigaYeast GY054 Vermont IPA, Yeast Bay VT Ale Strain, or Omega Yeast Lab OYL-052 DIPA Ale. White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) and Wyeast 1318 (London III) are also popular.
Nothing special needs to be done with the yeast, except perhaps allowing it to rise in temperature towards the end of fermentation to make sure it finishes strong and reduces any diacetyl present. Using other ester-producing techniques such as underpitching, using open fermenters, and fermenting warmer are not necessary. Try the biotransformation technique to see the effect of enhanced fruitiness before adding any other steps.
The water profile for this style is another matter open to debate among brewers. Some go quite heavy on the calcium chloride, which can give the beer a “wet” character. Some like to use some calcium sulfate to balance the bite. I prefer to go low on minerals in general, but you can tweak the balance of chloride to sulfate to help get the character you want. I don’t want the sulfur character from too much sulfate, so avoid Burtonizing the water. I can see increasing the calcium sulfate level rather than manipulating mash temperatures as the way to fine-tune the dryness of the beer.
Homebrew Example
The example I’m providing below follows the recommendations in this article fairly closely. I have made American IPAs with the same hops, so I do have a preference for modern IPAs with a tropical fruit character. But instead of using my normal Munich malt for a little more body, color, and flavor, I’m using flaked wheat and oats to give it some extra body. Golden Promise adds a little more malt interest to the neutral 2-row base malt I chose. A simple infusion mash will accomplish my goals, so I won’t use anything more involved. I have a preference for calcium chloride in my water treatments, but I’m adding a touch of calcium sulfate to give it a slight bite. I certainly don’t want a minerally character in my beer.
Amarillo® hops are one of my favorites, and they add a distinctive apricot flavor to the beer. They are the lowest alpha acid of the hops I’m using so I’ll use them for bitterness. I’ll save the tropical fruit hops for the late hopping. I’m using Citra®, which has a mango-guava character, GalaxyTM, which brings the passionfruit, and Mosaic®, which provides pineapple. Together, they should have the tropical fruit salad experience I want.
The hop techniques I’m using are a variation of my normal methods. I frequently use first wort hopping for a smooth bitterness and hop flavor, so no surprises there. I’m following this with hop bursting the knockout and whirlpool additions, including waiting for the whirlpool to cool off enough to minimize bitterness extraction.
I’m selecting one of the well-known yeast strains for this style, hoping for some extra biotransformation of the hop oils. To encourage this, I’m using three equal dry hop additions, with one of them during active fermentation. I’ll limit the dry hopping to three days for each addition, taking care to avoid oxygen uptake during the process. As soon as the last dry hops are pulled, I would keg and serve as quickly as possible to get the most fresh hop character.
I know the hop choices are expensive and popular, so they may be hard to find. But if you want the tropical character to shine, these are your best choices. Freshness of the hops is important, so make sure they aren’t oxidized before you use them (check that the hop cones are still green, and the lupulin is yellow not orange).
I'll try and chuck it in beersmith later and see how it goes with the robo profile. Cheeers
Good video. I actually just bought a 15L pot and have been wondering how I can use it to improve my kit beers so this is great. And cheers for pointing out the paint strainer bags from bunnings. I'd never have thought to look there.
Hi Gash is there an alternative to Coopers Pale ale kit which is less bitter please.
The pale it is the least bitter out of them all, I'd suggest swapping the galaxy with mosaic and not using the centennial in the steep. So steep would be 40g of Citra 40g of Mosaic. If you really want to lower the bitterness when you do the steep chill the wort to
Hey champ just wondering if you’ve done any more partial mash neipa’s like this? If so do have any links? cheers 🍻
I dont have anymore NEIPAs, but you could cut just the base grain in half to make handling the brew easier, and use different hops! Cheers!
Brewed this and my friends loved it , thanks heaps ! Just wondering do I need to balance the alpha acid amounts when switching the hops in this ? I did for the brew I did ( using topaz , citra and wai -tai) but wondering if all that maths was necessary seeing as they arent being boiled.
No link for the T’s. Will keep looking
oops ta mate! teespring.com/en-GB/stores/the-home-brew-network
Love the Vegemite on table for our USA friends.😀
Product placement hahaha cheers!
Hey Gash, I know this videos a bit old but just wondering if you have a detailed recipe with brew steps for it please?
Cheers 🍻
Someone wrote them out here in the thread, let me know if you'd like it more detailed, Cheers! www.cellardweller.net/index.php/en/forum/india-pale-ale/701-coopers-neipa?start=40
Cheers Gash! Ima try this but I'll be bottleing, any ideas on the bulk prime amount?
bit pissed right now, doing my live broad cast if you want a look lol but otherwise www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
vaughnlive.tv/gash_slugg/
Cheee booiii
few questions. Lady at home brew shop said mash ph is important and sold me a buffer to make it close to 5.2. It wasn't expensive and sounded important so should I be using that. Also does the pot, bag and everything that will touch the mini mash need sanitising beforehand. I only have a basic no rinse sanitiser so hopefully that does it. Thanks
Stuff in the mini mash just has to be clean and rinsed of soap etc because the wort or beer is going to be boiled afterwards. 5.2 buffer, it wont hurt, but as you get better at things it wont be needed, we'll do that other ways.. Bloody home brew shops selling stuff that really isnt needed, at least for this beer, but use it since you have it, it might help a touch. After the boil is where everything needs to be sanitised. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork thanks mate. That makes sense. Might even save it till when i really do need it
Hi mate,quick oats am I right in saying they are the same as porridge oats?
Cheers
It is porridge, but you want the quick cook version, if you use porridge you need to boil it first, quick cook porridge you dont have too. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Ah okay cheers for the reply mate.
Hey Gash,
What is the largest amount of grain you think you could mash in the 20L stock pot this way? I've had good success with under 2kg but keen to try 4-5kg and see what it produces. Cheers
reckon you could do 4, I mean the 2 I use in this is done in a 7.6L, 5 would be pushing it, bt not impossible. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork awesome, I'll give 5 a go and let you know how it goes! Cheers again
Been meaning to do some stove top brews again. Will eventually, Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork 5kg was absolutely pushing it, my efficiency dropped off significantly and the paint strainer could barely hold it in. I would try 4kg in the future but I think 2kg and a tin of extract is a much better combination. I'll just have to upgrade to a bigger pot for future mashes!
@@thegingerpowerranger Good to know, thanks mate!
Hey Gash, when would we add Mosaic and how much to get that ‘pine’ flavoring?? Cheers
You'd just have to add it at the same time as the other hops, hmm how much is up to you, maybe use 2/3 mosaic and galaxy or whatever other one you like for the rest. Cheers!
Gash Slugg Brewing cheers mate!
I have a couple more questions for you if you wouldn't mind. Is it advisable to cold crash this brew? And what about finings? I add gelatine to my CC because my fridge wont go below 4 or 5°C.
Cold crash is good to drop the hops out, and 4 or 5c should do that, but finings arent necessary at all. Cheers Will!
Champion thanks mate!!
Im planning to do this brew next weekend if my grain mill arrives on time. I have 100g of citra and galaxy and about 60g of cadcade. I was thinking 40g of citra and galaxy at the steep like you did and then 2 stages of dry hops using 30g each time to total 100g of citra and galaxy. My question is im not sure how much cascade i should use. I would like a little to break it up. Would 15g at the steep and 15 in both dry hop be over doing it do you think? This is only my second time using additional hops so i havn't had the experience to know these things. And one other question :D whats the benefits of dry hopping twice? One at high krausen and one near the end of fermentation? I was planning on using my strainer bag for dry hoping but i cant imagine having 2 bags in at once being desirable unless i add my 2nd dry hop pellets to the first?
Cascade is pretty good mate, not too strong but lots of flavour, chuck it in as you said, should be fine. You'll get more into style with doing the dry hop during ferment, and then again at the end, it should come out with the classic cloudiness and other characteristics of the style. 2 bags will be fine, make sure you have heaps of space in the bags for when the hops expand, I dont use bags myself, but no harm in it at all and will make things easier on transfer and having to worry about hop bits getting into everything. what you have planned sounds great. To get even closer to style is to get the boiled wort temp down lowish before the steep, where I added a touch of cold water, I could of added more but I ran out of space. It depends what you want out of the beer, I like a bit of bitterness in my NEIPAS thats why I didnt worry too much about waiting and getting the steep temp down, but if you want to be true and limit the bitterness its good to do the steep at about 80c.. So the two dry hops does really help for the style, but if you dont you'll still get a bloody great beer out of it.
Does that make sense?
Hey mate,
I'm also Australian, where do I buy the citrus type hops from? Also, what would I expect to pay for those? Cheers mate. 👍
Any decent home brew shop should have them. Its usually about $9-$10 for 100g. Where are you located?
@@HomeBrewNetwork
Sydney....thanks for replying so promptly. I really do appreciate the information, cheers.
Are there any commercial NEIPA's this compares to? I brewed it a few weeks ago with Coopers Bootmaker Pale but don't like the taste, going to have another crack with the exact ingredients and yeast you use here. Would love something loosely comparable to see if my flavours are correct. Cheers mate!
No it's not a clone at all, but saying that it's very common ingredients for an NEIPA. Guess something like a jedi juice. Though jedi uses Nelson Sauvin fairly heavily. NEIPA is one of the hardest of all styles to get right. Make sure timings are right and don't leave the hops in the hot wort for any longer, if timing is an issue it would be worth getting the wort down to 75c before doing the hop steep. Take a lot of care when packaging, no bulk priming, no shaking bottles, best in PET bottles. If you keg no splashing and best to enclose transfer. CHEERS!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Thanks for the additional tips, will be sure to give it another crack!
i put the whole thing with a lid on in my big esky and pour 2 ketles of boiling water in the esky around it. shut it up and it will slowly raise about 2 degrees over the hour
Good stuff mate! Whatever works!
Even though this is in a way "unprofessional" and please dont take this the wrong way... but like compared to your normal videos. But still HELL of a LOT of information in this video if you already know your shit! Thumbs up
Which video is the all grain version mate?
I never did a full brew video, adds a few hours to a brew day and I just havent had time, the end of the brew day where I talk briefly about it was this one ua-cam.com/video/liOsI0FBatw/v-deo.html was basically a typical pale/ipa recipe with 400g of oats and 120g whirlpool addition for 15mins just like the extract version. Cheers mate!
Cool I remember it now you said that , so I'll watch it again
Is this recipe fairly bitter?
Yeah its a got a bit, thats the way I like them, only so much you can do with a coopers can, but you can reduce the bitterness by making sure when you do the hop steep that the wort is below 80c. That way the only bitterness at all comes from the coopers can, there may be some perceived bitterness just from the taste of the hops but thats it. Cheers!