Homebrewing New England Pale Ale
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Brewing a New England Pale Ale from grain to glass. First time adding chit malt instead of unmalted wheat or oats. Hopped with Simcoe, Columbus, Mosaic, and Citra. Full recipe details: www.themadferm...
Appreciate a Brewer who cares about water.
Just a quick note to say that this video walk-thru was fantastic. And to say thank you for taking the time to put it together. Amazing amount of detail in 20 minutes and a couple awesome tips - brewing my NEIPA tomorrow and this video was well worth the time investment so thank you!!
My favorite brewing video yet explains alot more steps than others do thanks for the video
Great video. I love the narrative explanation as you go along
Merci ! Thanks for the video and of course your blog and your book i hope we will have the chance to drink one of the sapwood's beer (a fresh one !) here in France. Good luck with the brewery !
This was a great video!
It's nice to see your process and how you do things. Good video, sir!
Thanks, great video! A NEIPA is on my to-brew list. Like the use of the chit malt. As I don't have a kegging system yet, I've been worried about oxidation, and the chit might help at least with the color stability. I'll probably goose each bottle using a little CO2 capsule as well. Crossing fingers!
Mad informative! Loved the video.
Nice to see your brew day in action. I also love that you're brewing barefoot. I gotta try it.
My wife warned me I might get comments about my feet from Internet weirdos!
Ha she was right
Hi Mike. Again, Thanks for sharing your feedback on the HALO! We’d just like to mention that the calibration data is only displayed on the mobile app, not stored. Your data is saved via a chip in the probe, so it should stay with you between devices.
Ah, that contradicts the information I received from the Hanna Beverage Account Manager.
Great walk-through of your brewing process, I really enjoyed watching it. Two big takeaways for me is that Hanna Halo (Ou La La - haha) and the way your are using welding magnets to hold up the drip trays on your keezer. Haha. I've been trying to avoid drilling into the freezer wall, etc. Cheers!
wow what an awesome brew day video. I learned a lot and I've been brewing a while.
Thanks for sharing your brew day! Brand new brewer looking to buy his first rig, extrapolating gear/techniques from more experienced brewers. Gonna try a PA/DDHPA/NEIPA for my first beer...cheers!
Great vid! thanks for making it. thumb way up.
That's funny I use the same dollar store glass marbles or beads. There cheap I just buy new ones because I forget and dump them every time.
Wow, very informative video, thank you for showing your process!
Great video. I just started using a homemade hop spider myself. I had my concerns of lack of hop / wort contact but after using it, my IPA's are just as danky as before. Makes clean up a lot easier as well.
Please more videos! I liked watching your brew day. I just started brewing currently I'm on batch #4, and let me tell you I'm hooked.
Good job, Mike, excellent content and great images :)
Wow thanks that's very helpful
i agree! great freaking video sir. Nice work. I wish you all the best in your endeavors. Cheers.
Great of you to share this brew in detail! Thanks . Cheers
That looks good
Thank You for simple and obviously viedo for detail of homebrewing :)
I really liked this video. The tips and tricks were a great addition, very thorough. Liked, subscribed, and commented, thanks!
Great video Mike.
I just brewed your hop juice neipa recipe, it looks very promising cant wait to try this one
Cheers! Let me know how the recipe turns out for you!
Nice to see a video from yo ! Agree with previous comment saying you should keep making more if you find the time. Cheers from spain
I will be! Just waiting on a new camera to arrive so I can have a bit better quality. Probably a new microphone as well. Likely won't cover every step every time, more focus on what is unique about a particular batch.
Dudes like the Walter White of homebrew
Michael Page فون
Love your video. Trying your recipe on Wednesday.
I don't have a keg, and I'm scaling the recipe down to 25 litres. Is it possible to use bottles ?
You can bottle, but there is a high risk of oxidation in a beer like this. I'd suggest storing the bottles cold as soon as they are carbonated. Ideally you'd have a CO2 tank to purge each bottle before filling.
Hey Mike! Great Video!
Nuclear reactor?! So much complex for homebrewing! There must be some other simpler and easier ways;)
Great video, Hope you keep making more!
Great video. Got inspired.
+1 for water chemistry. Made my beers much more enjoyable.
good video
Great video! Thank you!
Also, do you cold crash using the brew bucket?
Hey there love your content, didn't know you had a channel I've always just been on your website. I was curious, I always dry hop in a bag in the brew bucket because I'm nervous I'll pick up hops during the transfer. Looked like you didn't have that issue, even with a good dose of dry hops. I noticed you said you siphoned as well...was that still via the liquid post? Looking to try what I can on my next batch. Cheers!
It's tricky, some hops settle out much easier than others. Bagging can certainly reduce extraction, but the trade-off may be worth it. I usually just purge the keg and transfer directly in. When I go through the post, I like to use a Bouncer filter (catches any stray hop material big enough to clog the poppet). Cheers!
Mad Fermentationist Great video! I was also wondering about your transfer to the keg, was it your racking arm on the brew bucket that plugged?
Interesting to see others brew processes. Your process is actually very similar to mine, although I don't recirculate mash, I just stir a few times during the process and use a combination of pump for sparge water, but gravity for emptying the mash tun. Mainly just because I only have one pump and a two tiered setup. I think it was John Palmer that said any more than 5ml of lactic acid is detectable and undesirable in a 5 gallon batch of beer. That would be about 1 tsp. I've always stuck to that rule of maximums and will adjust further with CaSo4 or CaCl2 if needed, although I've never personally verified if using more lactic acid creates off flavors. I also do an oxygen addition using a oxygen wand/stone before pitching yeast, any reason you chose to omit that step?
I see a couple posts mentioning Palmer suggests a max of 2 ml per gallon. Around 5 tsp for my batch size. It also depends what sort of beer, a beer hopped like this will hide the lactate better than a pale lager or light ale.
Hi Mike !! I don’t see the Recipe , can you put it again please??
Here you go (it's in the description too): www.themadfermentationist.com/2017/11/new-england-pale-ale-brewing-video.html
Thanks !!!
finally a video channel
Good video. I had 3 observations. First, I can never seem to find a hose that fits both my keg input post and the Brew Bucket valve - I really need to get that done. Second, it never occurred to me to use that much co2 to purget the keg so maybe I will do that in the future. Third, was there no sanitation done on the keg hop filter?
You should be able to get a different-size on the keg connector so that it fits the hose... honestly don't remember what size mine is though. More CO2 never hurts, I'm probably more aggressive now. Keg filter was soaked in StarSan prior to filling (same with the glass marbles to weigh it down). Cheers!
How much time passed till your last dry hopped and your first pour (when it stopped being green)? Also those are intertap faucets?
Great content, hope you keep it up!
I usually start tasting after a week, but I expect another week to go by before it starts hitting its stride. Taps are Perlicks, removed the flow-control functionality though.
Hey Michael was wondering if you recommend cold crashing before transferring to the keg? Also do you allow the keg to warm to room temperature to let the dry hops better infuse into the beer before force carbing? Thanks for the great video!
I don't have an easy way to cold crash before kegging. I want to avoid any airlock suck-back. If you do have a way, then it's a fine idea. Either way you can just dump whatever drops out in the keg with the first pour. I've recently started repitching a small amount of yeast and a little table sugar at kegging. This gives the keg hops a couple days warm to infuse while the yeast uses any small amount of oxygen introduced. If I'm force carbing, I usually put it in the kegerator immediately.
great video,,can i ask..at 16:50 you purge corny to let beer in...does this now reintroduce o2 into the keg ? You know what I found works good as a weight instead of marbles...SST ball bearings,,they save you room and you can find them on ebay !
As the beer flows into the keg it will push CO2 out at the same rate. That will mostly stop air from entering. Any amount that does enter will be purged out again when I pressurize and vent the head space. Nice tip on the ball bearings!
Aweaome video! Very infornative. We are brewing another NEIPA later this moth so hopefully we improve. Check our site for a video and review of our previous brew and our upcoming one. Cheers!
Hi Mike. Get you, another forum for your well enjoyed content - bravo! Q. You mentioned pH reading will be .25 higher than at room temp, yet your meter read 5.21 at the time. Does this mean you're looking for a mash pH of 5 for NEIPA? Thanks! Nick
Good catch, I misspoke. I should have said ADD .25 to readings at mash temperature. So in this case the mash pH would have been ~5.45 if measured at room temperature. When I tested the same beer at mash and room temperature the difference was only .14, so it may have been closer to 5.35.
Stupid question maybe,
How does the beer get carbonated in the keg? Just by the CO2 you added?
Yes with the CO2 from the tank.
Yes, the CO2 dissolves into the beer. You can use higher pressure or agitation to speed up the process, but I find most beers (even IPAs) benefit from a week or two cold before serving.
When you transfer from your brew bucket do you just take the airlock off and call it a day or pressure transfer. People seem concerned about oxygen when transferring since the brew bucket is allowing in oxygen at that point. From what I can tell that doesn't have any impact on your beers.
I just take the airlock off. Less oxygen is always better, but the amount that dissolves into the beer is pretty minimal. Homebrewers have such control over their beer (quick consumption and cold storage) that low-level DO isn't as concerning as it would be for a packaging brewery. I cold crash after kegging (easier that way and no risk of airlock suck-back).
@@madfermentationist4470 I have the same SS Brewbucket and have started to transfer via the liquid post. Seems like the only downfall of that (and not cold crashing) is the fact the poppet can get clogged with dry hops. I suppose a muslin bag could possible off-set that. I generally do a pressure transfer b/c I ferment in corny kegs but I have been liking the SS bucket way better as of late.
@@ajoyce The bouncer filter is what I used to stop the poppet clogging. The little one I have can't handle much though, just a tablespoon of pellets that get sucked into the arm.
This is great, thanks, It's nice seeing how others do things since no one I know brews. Question: Why room temp distilled water and not warmer? Is there a reason you do that or is it just easier not to warm it to do a sparge? Thanks
Also, if it was distilled does that affect your water additions at the beginning? Do you put extra at the beginning?
It allows me to only have two vessels (no HLT) and saves an extra step of collecting/treating/heating sparge water. I'm also lazy, and it turns out there really isn't much benefit to a hot sparge. I get good efficiency, and the water cools down the grain making it easier to clean the mash tun. I add all of the salts at the start. The water profile I publish is an average of all of the water and all of the salts.
More discussion and detail in my "Minimal Sparge" process in this blog post: www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/09/minimal-sparge-easier-way-to-brew.html
I know it's probably not an issue with this style, but have you ever noticed your beers harder to clear when doing a sparge with cool water?
I haven't, not sure what would cause that? If anything a hot sparge would risk gelatinizing and extracting unconverted starches.
Hi Michael, I was suprise when you said that destiled water don`t wash tanins from the husk. So i have question. Is ROwater also ok for this purpose ??? And can I use RO water to fly sparge ?? I mean can I heat RO water to lets say 168F and not worried about washing tanins, even if I sparge below 2 Plato ??
Water with lower Residual Alkalinity requires less buffering from the malt to drop the pH. This buffering capacity is greatly reduced by the end of the sparge. Best practice is still to cut-off at 1.008, but your risk of tannin extraction is much lower with RO or Distilled water especially if you aren't acidifying the water first.
Are you transferring to keg directly with just gravity or did you connect your brewbucket to co2? I didn’t know you could do this if so!
No CO2, just gravity. A closed loop would be ideal, but I've had good luck with the easier method.
Wouldn't flacked barley have the same effect as the chit malt? That being adding proteins for mouthfeel.
Flaked barley would certainly be the most convenient substitute, but it won't have exactly the same effect as its proteins are even larger than those contributed by the chit malt (thanks to some modification). Eventually I'll have to try it to compare!
Aren't you introducing contamination with unsanitized keg hop spider and hands?
I just didn't show sanitizing the metal canister. My hands were dipped in sanitizer as well, but gloves wouldn't hurt. Honestly there isn't much risk at this stage given the alcohol, pH, and fact that the beer will be cold until consumed.
Do you have any more info on the line cleaning process you have? Looks like a pond pump. I tried something similar but it leaked a lot! And I had to use a wooden spoon to depress the valve on the beer out connector. Needed about 8 hands!!
Essentially, it is a modified Mark's Keg Washer. I added a stainless steel "carb cap" to connect it to the liquid line when cleaning the kegerator.
every good video , but i want to do experiment
Are you opening a brewery ? ! If so, where?
Opened in 2018, Sapwood Cellars in Columbia, MD!
Hey Michael,
How are you controlling fermentation temp? I'm looking at digital controllers and fridges/heat elements but it's hard to justify their cost without experience.
For most beers I have an old fridge and temperature controller. The fermentation temperature control is probably the single biggest thing you can do to improve your beer!
Mad Fermentationist Was imagining you'd say that...next paycheck!!!
did you cold crashed the beer before kegging it?
I usually cold crash only after kegging.
Hi. Madferm
Can you tell me where i can buy the wheat crash machine?? Here is asia country.. and i can't find that here help me!!!!
I'm not sure where they ship, but I bought my mill from: www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/
What was the name of that malt you used that helped with the creaminess? Chip Malt?
Chit malt
Hey Mike, when you were mashing like this, what kind of efficiency #'s did you get?
68% system efficiency on this batch.
do you sanitize the marbles in the hop basket? are you concerned with infection?
I StarSan the marbles and the screen. With the knee-highs I would often steam them, but the screen it too big to get in a small pot. Better safe than sour!
What filter are you using? I really like that idea for the hops.
Dry hop filter: amzn.to/2f4237P
Boil filter: www.homebrewing.org/400-Micron-Stainless-Hop-Filter-with-Adjustable-Hook--6-x-14_p_7116.html?AffId=553
Perfect, thank you! Awesome video, btw. You're one of the only people I've seen give a good explanation and demonstration of water chemistry
When you brew a commercial batch, do you adjust mash ph during the mash like you did here if needed?
Yes, although the advantage of brewing and rebrewing a recipe regularly is that you learn what adjustments are typically needed.
How long do you recommend to boil the gypsum and calcium chloride?
I add them to the mash as the calcium helps to lower the mash pH (which I need given the carbonate in my water for a pale beer). If you are adding it the boil, again there is no harm to earlier in the process. If you are dosing post-fermentation to taste, you can boil it briefly to sanitize and dissolve.
0:48 what is it for what?
Nice job! Did you skim the boil?
I usually do, can't remember if I did or not on this one.
How do you not get hop burn from the keg addition of hops?
After 7-10 days of cold storage under pressure most of the hop material that is small enough to escape the screen falls to the bottom and is dumped out with the first pint. You can certainly jump to a serving keg if you'd prefer.
Your mash looks very liquid. Is there a reason with this type of beer to have a liquid mash?
That's my standard approach. It has minimal effect on the finished beer, but makes my brew day easier. More information: www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/09/minimal-sparge-easier-way-to-brew.html
Hey, where do you get one of those mills you can use a drill on?
almost all grain mills can have their handle removed and have a drill used on them instead. morebeer.com is where I get most of my brewing stuff.
Does whirpooling add bitterness?
If the whirlpool is above 180F it will isomerize hops added to it and increase the bitterness of late-boil additions as well. I just submitted an article to BYO about the "limitations" of IBUs in the context of modern IPA brewing techniques and recipes.
How you calculate the amount of? ingredients
I use BeerSmith software to estimate the amount of malt needed to achieve the starting gravity, and hops for the desired bitterness. Mostly though it is experience knowing which malts/hops will provide the flavors/aromas I want.
@@madfermentationist4470 yes! as you practice a lot as you become better#thanks man.
Paint strainer bags
And one Autumnal meade...
Really buying into the Belgian conglomerate's marketing, huh?
@@madfermentationist4470 No, I actually hate it that piss water is being sold as beer. I was being sarcastic.
That's a LOT of marbles.. I use like 5....
I used to use whole hops in the keg and learned they need a lot of ballast. With the weight of the screen and with the lack of material in the Cryo it is certainly overkill! No harm though.
The new