I really appreciate this video, Jen! It explains the 'visual confusion' when I look at patterns. I love your teaching style and motivates me to learn more. Thanks so much!
I bought the ruler. This class was incredibly helpful, especially that explanation for the 2" increase. I always thought the other UA-cam videos that show the slash and spread method throughout to be overly vague. I feel like a "professional."
First time watcher/ subscriber, just bought your book. I thought you should know, you give one heck of an impression. You did the best pattern grading intro I’ve seen. Thank you.
Thank you so much! This way of grading a pattern really helped me visually compared to others. You explained it wonderfully! Now I understand thank you!
I get it with a simple pattern. My question is how does that affect sleeves and collars. I havecan old shirt that I copped into a pattern. It doesn't fit well around the bust. I need to make my copy a size larger. If I make the front and back larger, I will need to makecthe sleeves larger as well and possibly the collar if the neckline gets larger. I really dont need to make too many adjustments but it does have to be adjusted. This is my first attempt at making my own pattern. I have plenty of experience working with premade patterns from the major pattern companies. I'm confident in my sewing skills when it comescto assemble the pattern. I'm just not as experienced at grading and alterations. Thank you. BTW I just bought your guide from the link.
Yay, There are instructions for how to grade the sleeve to match the new sized armhole + How to adjust the collar and stand! Keep me posted if you have questions Thanks for grading along with me
Thank you for the tutorial. I am so confused by this but would love to learn more. Could you say if your book also gives examples how to grade darts in the shirt , pants, and skirt ? I also would love to learn how to decrease sizes. Does the book cover that as well ?
In this example the shoulder seam stays the same length... If you need to make it longer, change the X axis move from - to +. (There's a very small range of shoulder lengths... they don't grow longer as sizes get bigger for everyone. You could have a person that is a size 20 with a shorter shoulder length than someone else that is a size 14. So, I usually leave the shoulder length and adjust to fit the person.) Thanks for watching
Thank you for your video. What if your body measurements fall within 3 pattern sizes? Does your book have instructions for grading the patterns. Many thanks!
You can grade up 3 sizes by multiplying the grade amount for one size by 3. Or you can grade up one size, grade the graded size up another size... then grade up again. It would work out the same. :) Thanks for watching
I have a vintage pattern in a size 16. I want to grade up quite a bit. I think the differences between bust waist and hip are 8, 14 and 9 respectively. I assume I would need to grade up several times using the 2” or 3” measurements in your book (which I have). Would that be correct? My other question is in regard to the sleeve. The sleeve is part of the bodice. How would I account for the sleeve? Thank you for your videos. I love watching them.
Yes, grade up a few times to get to the desired size. You can use different grade rules for each. For example, use a 2" grade for the bust (that's 4 sizes up) Then divide 14 by 4 ... Use a 3 1/2" grade and and 2 1/4" grade for the waist. (To get the "grade" you divide the total grade rule by the number of edges you need to grade... For tops that's usually 4 edges (4 side seam edges). You can use the corresponding grade rules for 2" or 3" to grade the neckline and shoulders... then fine-tune from there. If the sleeve is attached to the bodice there is some grading that needs to happen where the armhole/sleeve cap seam would be if they were separated. In this case, I would most likely cut the two pieces apart to create an armhole/cap edge. Then you can grade them individually and reattach them when you've graded to the size you need. You'll have to play with smoothing the two curves to align them perfectly.. Then make a half muslin to test the fit. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi, I just found your Channel and this video is amazing. Been looking for a tutorial like this forever. I have a question is your workbook also cover increment for dresses?
If you're grading the pattern up a size all the way around... you can do the FBA after you grade and move the bust dart to the proper position. Then make a half muslin to check it! Thanks for watching
Hi J, i got your book on pattern grading. Thank you for making a book tutorial (it's really hard to figure out the ruler without one). Anyway, how do you determine where the pin point for the crotch curve is? Thanks, M
Hi Miss D. Are you referring to the point where you would adjust the crotch curve? Let me know ... and I super apologize for the delayed response... I'll keep my eye out for you!
I just bought your grading package! I need to size a vintage pattern from a 36” bust to a 45 1/2” bust. Would I do this one size at a time? Or can I do it all at once?
I think I would make a few incremental changes. Instead of grading up by size, grade up by an inch. If you increase 1" to front and back bodice, that will add 4". Then true up the pieces and grade up again to add the amount you need to fit your bust. Good Luck!!
You can use this technique to grade children's clothes. If you order the workbook, I will have to look up children's standard grade rules and I'll send them to you. (I've never graded children's clothes, so I need to look it up!)
One more question, what are the rules for decreasing a pant size? Do i just swap the increase number i.e. to increase the CF it is x = +1/4 so then to decrease would x= -1/4? And carry on like that for all the points?
Yes! You can grade down using the same method as grading up! There are grade rules in my Grading Workbook if you need more help with how much to adjust each part of the pants pattern.... ps. so sorry for the delayed response! thank you for sewing along with me
Does the grade rules also apply to garments that have negative ease (like athletic wear)? Or do they have their own grade rules? Does the PDF go over negative ease patterns?
That's a great question! I don't specifically talk about garments with negative ease, but the grade rules can be applied to these patterns too. The increase or decrease between sizes is the same because it's not the actual fit or fabric that you are grading for. You're still grading the pattern pieces for the same changes in the body as you would for a non-stretch pattern. Having said that, the actual amount of stretch your fabric has will affect the fit of your garment. I like to test a 10" section of the stretch fabric I'm working on.... If it stretches 2" past 10", it has 20% stretch. I use this math to check the fit. For example, if the full bust on a top measures 36" and my bust is 40" & I'm working with knit that stretches 2" for every 10", I know the fabric across the bust will stretch 8"... So I have plenty of room and some ease since by bust is only 4" larger than the pattern. I can make changes based on this. If you're looking for instructions to adjust a non-stretch pattern for stretch fabric, I have a workbook for that too! jsterndesigns.com/product/adjust-non-stretch-pattern-stretch-fabric-pdf/ Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Hi I have watched several of your videos and been very impressed by your very clear explanations. However I have a question about fitting that I have not seen answered. I have a jacket pattern from the 1890's that is for a 38 bust. My full bust is 43 and high bust is 37. Do I increase pattern size first, then do full bust adjustment? There is no other size available for this pattern and I am totally stuck. Thanks
The first step is to measure across the high bust of the pattern to make sure it agrees with your high bust. Then measure across the pattern approximately 2" below the armhole to see how much room there is in the full bust... Compare that to your measurement. (You may also want to check to make sure the full bust area agrees with your full bust level. Measure from the shoulder down to your apex and compare to pattern) ... Then increase the full bust measurement with a FBA and letting out the side seams. If this jacket has lapels or an open front, it will be more forgiving than one that zips up to the neck. Hope this helps!
Would be really helpful if you can mention the grade measurement that you are grading,is it the 2" grade or 1 1/2" grade and also how you are distributing the measurements.
I was using a 2" grade. For this simple top with side seams, all the grading is accomplished at the side seam distributing 1/4 or 1/2" of 2" to the side seam edges. The neckline/shoulder/armhole are graded a smaller amount because the amount people get bigger or smaller between sizes is much less (than through the bust/chest, waist and hips). Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks a lot.Can you please clarify my doubt about an 1 1/1/2" and 2" grade for a basic skirt,thats if we determine only from the waist difference? 28-29 1/2 (thats 1 and half " difference".Can we take only the waist difference and grade the whole pattern for basic skirt.?
Hi, New Subscriber here. I randomly found your videos and am so excited to have found you. This video is Awesome. Thank you for your Workbook, got mine. “) I haven’t printed yet but I do have a question about grading other parts, specifically Flounces on sleeves. Is the grading similar to what you’ve shown here?
Welcome to my channel! & thank you for getting a copy of the grading workbook. How to Grade details like a flounce on a sleeve is an excellent question… I’m putting that on my short list of upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!
That sounds like an exciting project!!! You can use the the "Grade Rules" in the workbook with any pattern. There are grade rules for a variety of differences between sizes so you can grade the pattern pieces up or down 1 1/2" - 3" between sizes.
You can grade the side seam and center front/back edges only to make room along the waistline. Then you'll need to make a like adjustment to the waistband so it fits!
I really appreciate this video, Jen! It explains the 'visual confusion' when I look at patterns. I love your teaching style and motivates me to learn more. Thanks so much!
Thanks so much!
I bought the ruler. This class was incredibly helpful, especially that explanation for the 2" increase. I always thought the other UA-cam videos that show the slash and spread method throughout to be overly vague. I feel like a "professional."
I'm so happy to hear! Thanks for grading along with me
First time watcher/ subscriber, just bought your book. I thought you should know, you give one heck of an impression. You did the best pattern grading intro I’ve seen. Thank you.
Thanks so much... & welcome... Thanks for watching!
Thank you Jen, I do understand pattern grading for the 1rst time, your teaching style is very good to understand
I'm so happy to hear that!! Thanks for watching
Thank you so much! This way of grading a pattern really helped me visually compared to others. You explained it wonderfully! Now I understand thank you!
You're very welcome! So happy this helps you & thanks for following along with me
I'm new to pattern grading and this is really good intro. Thank you so much 🤍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Another great class, thanks so much for this and the very useful pdf !
Thank you!
I get it with a simple pattern. My question is how does that affect sleeves and collars.
I havecan old shirt that I copped into a pattern. It doesn't fit well around the bust. I need to make my copy a size larger.
If I make the front and back larger, I will need to makecthe sleeves larger as well and possibly the collar if the neckline gets larger.
I really dont need to make too many adjustments but it does have to be adjusted.
This is my first attempt at making my own pattern. I have plenty of experience working with premade patterns from the major pattern companies.
I'm confident in my sewing skills when it comescto assemble the pattern. I'm just not as experienced at grading and alterations.
Thank you.
BTW I just bought your guide from the link.
Yay, There are instructions for how to grade the sleeve to match the new sized armhole + How to adjust the collar and stand! Keep me posted if you have questions Thanks for grading along with me
Thank you for the tutorial. I am so confused by this but would love to learn more. Could you say if your book also gives examples how to grade darts in the shirt , pants, and skirt ? I also would love to learn how to decrease sizes. Does the book cover that as well ?
Yes, the workbook covers grading up and down, bust darts, front/back bodice, sleeves ...and I have grade rule charts for pants and skirts. :)
This was very helpful, thank you! I am a little confused about one thing through. The shoulder seam does not get any bigger when you go up sizes?
In this example the shoulder seam stays the same length... If you need to make it longer, change the X axis move from - to +. (There's a very small range of shoulder lengths... they don't grow longer as sizes get bigger for everyone. You could have a person that is a size 20 with a shorter shoulder length than someone else that is a size 14. So, I usually leave the shoulder length and adjust to fit the person.) Thanks for watching
Thank you for your video. What if your body measurements fall within 3 pattern sizes? Does your book have instructions for grading the patterns. Many thanks!
You can grade up 3 sizes by multiplying the grade amount for one size by 3. Or you can grade up one size, grade the graded size up another size... then grade up again. It would work out the same. :) Thanks for watching
I have a vintage pattern in a size 16. I want to grade up quite a bit. I think the differences between bust waist and hip are 8, 14 and 9 respectively. I assume I would need to grade up several times using the 2” or 3” measurements in your book (which I have). Would that be correct?
My other question is in regard to the sleeve. The sleeve is part of the bodice. How would I account for the sleeve?
Thank you for your videos. I love watching them.
Yes, grade up a few times to get to the desired size. You can use different grade rules for each. For example, use a 2" grade for the bust (that's 4 sizes up) Then divide 14 by 4 ... Use a 3 1/2" grade and and 2 1/4" grade for the waist. (To get the "grade" you divide the total grade rule by the number of edges you need to grade... For tops that's usually 4 edges (4 side seam edges). You can use the corresponding grade rules for 2" or 3" to grade the neckline and shoulders... then fine-tune from there. If the sleeve is attached to the bodice there is some grading that needs to happen where the armhole/sleeve cap seam would be if they were separated. In this case, I would most likely cut the two pieces apart to create an armhole/cap edge. Then you can grade them individually and reattach them when you've graded to the size you need. You'll have to play with smoothing the two curves to align them perfectly.. Then make a half muslin to test the fit. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for your direction. It is greatly appreciated.
Good information.Could you suggest the book that you are refering to?
There is a link to the workbook in the video description :)
Hi, I just found your Channel and this video is amazing. Been looking for a tutorial like this forever. I have a question is your workbook also cover increment for dresses?
Hi Elle, I didn't do a dress in this workbook, but you can follow the steps for a top and a skirt to do a dress :)
Just a quick question.
I always need to add length and FBA. Do I do this after the grading on the new pattern?
If you're grading the pattern up a size all the way around... you can do the FBA after you grade and move the bust dart to the proper position. Then make a half muslin to check it! Thanks for watching
Hi J, i got your book on pattern grading. Thank you for making a book tutorial (it's really hard to figure out the ruler without one). Anyway, how do you determine where the pin point for the crotch curve is? Thanks, M
Hi Miss D. Are you referring to the point where you would adjust the crotch curve? Let me know ... and I super apologize for the delayed response... I'll keep my eye out for you!
I just bought your grading package! I need to size a vintage pattern from a 36” bust to a 45 1/2” bust. Would I do this one size at a time? Or can I do it all at once?
I think I would make a few incremental changes. Instead of grading up by size, grade up by an inch. If you increase 1" to front and back bodice, that will add 4". Then true up the pieces and grade up again to add the amount you need to fit your bust. Good Luck!!
Thankyou so much!
Hi!! Does your book have grading rules for plus size and/or alpha sizing?
Yes, I included a 3” grade that you can use to grade plus sizes ;)
Sounds interesting ! Would these figures and techniques work for grading childrens clothing - sizes 2-14?
You can use this technique to grade children's clothes. If you order the workbook, I will have to look up children's standard grade rules and I'll send them to you. (I've never graded children's clothes, so I need to look it up!)
@@JSternDesigns ooh. I was hoping the same rules apply. OK. I will let you know . Thanks.
Where can get the book?
Thanks for watching!! Here is a link to the pattern grading of the home sewer jsterndesigns.com/product/pattern-grading-home-sewer-pdf/
One more question, what are the rules for decreasing a pant size? Do i just swap the increase number i.e. to increase the CF it is x = +1/4 so then to decrease would x= -1/4? And carry on like that for all the points?
Yes! You can grade down using the same method as grading up! There are grade rules in my Grading Workbook if you need more help with how much to adjust each part of the pants pattern.... ps. so sorry for the delayed response! thank you for sewing along with me
Does the grade rules also apply to garments that have negative ease (like athletic wear)? Or do they have their own grade rules? Does the PDF go over negative ease patterns?
That's a great question! I don't specifically talk about garments with negative ease, but the grade rules can be applied to these patterns too. The increase or decrease between sizes is the same because it's not the actual fit or fabric that you are grading for. You're still grading the pattern pieces for the same changes in the body as you would for a non-stretch pattern. Having said that, the actual amount of stretch your fabric has will affect the fit of your garment. I like to test a 10" section of the stretch fabric I'm working on.... If it stretches 2" past 10", it has 20% stretch. I use this math to check the fit. For example, if the full bust on a top measures 36" and my bust is 40" & I'm working with knit that stretches 2" for every 10", I know the fabric across the bust will stretch 8"... So I have plenty of room and some ease since by bust is only 4" larger than the pattern. I can make changes based on this. If you're looking for instructions to adjust a non-stretch pattern for stretch fabric, I have a workbook for that too! jsterndesigns.com/product/adjust-non-stretch-pattern-stretch-fabric-pdf/ Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Okay that makes sense!! I appreciate your response, and ill check out the workbook too!! Thanks!
Hi I have watched several of your videos and been very impressed by your very clear explanations. However I have a question about fitting that I have not seen answered. I have a jacket pattern from the 1890's that is for a 38 bust. My full bust is 43 and high bust is 37. Do I increase pattern size first, then do full bust adjustment? There is no other size available for this pattern and I am totally stuck. Thanks
The first step is to measure across the high bust of the pattern to make sure it agrees with your high bust. Then measure across the pattern approximately 2" below the armhole to see how much room there is in the full bust... Compare that to your measurement. (You may also want to check to make sure the full bust area agrees with your full bust level. Measure from the shoulder down to your apex and compare to pattern) ... Then increase the full bust measurement with a FBA and letting out the side seams. If this jacket has lapels or an open front, it will be more forgiving than one that zips up to the neck. Hope this helps!
Would be really helpful if you can mention the grade measurement that you are grading,is it the 2" grade or 1 1/2" grade and also how you are distributing the measurements.
I was using a 2" grade. For this simple top with side seams, all the grading is accomplished at the side seam distributing 1/4 or 1/2" of 2" to the side seam edges. The neckline/shoulder/armhole are graded a smaller amount because the amount people get bigger or smaller between sizes is much less (than through the bust/chest, waist and hips). Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks a lot.Can you please clarify my doubt about an 1 1/1/2" and 2" grade for a basic skirt,thats if we determine only from the waist difference? 28-29 1/2 (thats 1 and half " difference".Can we take only the waist difference and grade the whole pattern for basic skirt.?
Hi,
New Subscriber here. I randomly found your videos and am so excited to have found you. This video is Awesome. Thank you for your Workbook, got mine. “)
I haven’t printed yet but I do have a question about grading other parts, specifically Flounces on sleeves.
Is the grading similar to what you’ve shown here?
Welcome to my channel! & thank you for getting a copy of the grading workbook. How to Grade details like a flounce on a sleeve is an excellent question… I’m putting that on my short list of upcoming videos. Thanks for watching!
would the book work for grading a vintage mens pattern?
That sounds like an exciting project!!! You can use the the "Grade Rules" in the workbook with any pattern. There are grade rules for a variety of differences between sizes so you can grade the pattern pieces up or down 1 1/2" - 3" between sizes.
@@JSternDesigns Thank you started reading through the book last night and there's some great information!
How to grade the waistline only
You can grade the side seam and center front/back edges only to make room along the waistline. Then you'll need to make a like adjustment to the waistband so it fits!
it's easier now
Happy to hear! Thanks for watching
is your pdf free? or?
You can get 5.00$ off using coupon code "GradeUp" Thanks for watching!