How to grade a sewing pattern
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- Turn your design into a range of sizes with this easy step-by-step tutorial.
CORRECTION!: I made a mistake when grading the shorts in this video. Please watch this one for my correction: • Grading Correction
MY FAVE SEWING TOOLS: My sewing machine - Babylock Sofia 2
My serger - an old Kenmore
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0:00 Intro
1:57 What You’ll Need
2:36 Standard Sizing
4:14 The Sketch
7:34 Grading Up
13:29 Grading Down
16:43 Grading a Bodice
20: 53 Grading a Sleeve
Size Chart: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._st...
Music: Divine Life Society by Jesse Gallagher from the UA-cam Audio Library - Навчання та стиль
I’m a guy and I typically draft WWII era/vintage style clothing. I learned a lot from this. Glad to see a basic classic type of grading. Thank you!
More pattern grading videos please! For knits! Advanced Pattern grading! This is so good!!
I have been a one person design, grading and construction business for 56 yrs now. This is how I grade using a manual grading machine. A Dario.
I have all my notes etc. from fashion design schools, LA Trade Tech and HCC College (Hawaii) and just needed a refresher.
You are extraordinarily talented and just a wonderful person. Your voice is more then pleasant and your simplicity is a key to life. I can’t thank you enough ❤
I am brainfarting over a raglan slv grading. Do you have a tutorial, my notes are ????? I know I can figure it out but I want someone else’s input.
Your so amazing and really get it that I had to subscribe ❤ thank you 🌴
Thanks for the lovely comment. Send me an email at contactcatherinesews@gmail.com so I can share a sketch with you. I haven’t graded a raglan in years, but I think I still know how!
This was so helpful! I used to sort of wing it...Catherine, you're an exeptional teacher!
This makes so much sense! I don’t think it’s ever been explained like this to me. I’ve saved this so that I can reference it. This UA-cam makes everything so easy. No one wants to help me in real time in the middle of the night!
I may have to watch this 10 times till I really get it....
I would need to rewatch this a few times. But, honestly this is so much easier then cutting the pattern in strips and splitting it 1/4” here, and 1/2” there.
Wow this is really helpful! This makes way more sense than any other video I’ve watched about grading! Thank you!!
Thanks Catherine . I am going to have to watch this a couple of times to get my head round it, but its definitely going to be so useful.
I think I’ll have to see this ten more times to be able to do it myself but thank you! You are great! Best whishes from Sarah in Sweden 😅
Thank you very much I took pattern grading in fashion college in my 3rd year. But I really didn't understand it then and I had a terrible time with fractions back then. over 20 years ago. grading and alterations have been a real challenge to me through the years in designing and making clothing for people. this video that you did here finally makes me understand this now. the classes dealt with pattern blocks where they split the pattern into blocks. and it was hard for me to understand at that time.
I do have a 2 year associates degree in fashion design. but never worked in the industries of fashion designing. just making clothing for local clients.
Your comment makes my day! I'm beyond happy if my tutorial helps you understand something that you learned 20 years ago! Cheers!
my story exactly.. :)
Loved this video. I've never seen this done before, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks!
That's great to hear! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
That’s very clear, helpful directions. Thanks!
Yes, more grading videos 🙏
Each time you did it I understood a little bit more. Still need to understand more.
Wow, that is amazing. Once I understood the concept, that makes total sense. Thank you.
Also, thank you so much for this video, I've been searching for videos on how to grade and I couldn't find any, you're literally a life saver, thank you !!🥺🥰
So glad to hear this! Thanks for finding my channel!!
This was SO clear and helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
Oh, thanks for giving this older video some love! Grading is such a useful skill. I use it all the time for my classes.
Very helpful video, thank you. Happy new year, sending positive thoughts!
so clever! i will have to watch again a few times to get it, but so much easier than measuring bit by bit all the way round
So clear!
You are just rocking these videos. So many new videos coming out. Thank you. I teach the kids how to do this, I will have them watch this video now. Thank you so much. 👍💜
Oh, you're braver than I am! I sometimes do grading for my students but I haven't tried teaching them the process. It's so technical and tedious, and they're just itching to get onto the fun stuff. Thanks for watching as always (I know that no one will watch this video purely for entertainment, lol.)
@@CatherineSews It’s funny, I grade with mine and you drape. 😁
This information is excellent. So glad I found you. I will be watching more so I can get a better understanding about the MATH part of it. You made it easier to get a better comprehension of understanding the increasing and decreasing of pattern sizes.
Thank you, such a cool technique. I would love to sew vintage patterns I find in thrift shops but they are rarely the right size. Now I can fly :)
Very interesting, thanks for sharing 😀
Loved this video, I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have watched several. I subscribed as soon as I watched the first video.
That's great to.hear, Margarett! So happy to have you on board!
You are such a pleasure to listen to and watch. I forgot how to grade and your tutorial brought it all back. I know it's going to be complicated because it's a jacket with many pieces 😣but 🤷🏼♀️. Thank you so much
I’ve seen grading done a few different ways but never like this, wow. Can we see how you would grade a skirt? Hmm I’m guessing the skirt would be super easy to do. Would love to see more grading videos. Is there a name for this particular grading? I am enjoying all your videos. Thank you.
Great comment! I was thinking about doing another grading video because I wanted to make sure the process was clear enough. I could definitely do a skirt! Coming up soon!
Now I finally understand, thank you!
You did a good job of simplifying the process. People just have to remember to do it accurately for each style they have to know what standard sizes to use. There are a lot of standard sizes out there. Some things like darts are more complex to grade. If you look at a multi-sized patterns you will see this.
This is brilliant. Thank you. I'm making a jacket from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 6, and I know right now the pattern will be too small for me, but the patterns are taken from extant garments, so there is only one size provided. This will help me to get the pattern closer to my size before making my first mockup. THANKS!
You’re amazing ❤
Thank you for the video. It is fantastic!! It is sort of a mix of a Ouija board and an Etch-A-Sketch. It will be fun to try it out. I may use metric based on multiples of 3.
Back to support you, Sister!
Thank you my friend!
Very helpful
Glad to hear that. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
great video !!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
You are amazing! Thank you so much! My daughter wants a 60's men's double breasted jacket and trying to figure out how to size it down has been a nightmare. This will help me a ton! If you have any advice for changes from a man's pattern to a women's I would really appreciate it. The bust is the only worry I have.
So interesting...more of this grading classes will be appreciated plsssse!
So glad you liked this one! I'll do more grading videos sometime soon!
@@CatherineSews Thanks for your teaching! Please could you make one grading a pattern with dart? Very much appreciated!
Thank you for this amazing video. What about grading for a certain individual, like a custom dress specifically for that person?
Great video! Just wanted to know if going from a LG to xl would it be 4 in all around?
Thank you, for the great video. How would you grade a pattern with darts?I.e bust, waist and shoulder darts?
Thank god for UA-cam tho!!
Thank you for this! What paper are you using and where do you get it?
TFS! Could you please teach us how to grade a jacket with collar, cuff, pocket, Etc.? Thanks! Very much appreciated!
Great suggestion! That was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry - to take a trenchcoat pattern down to a 4 and up to a 16. It's a lot of work to do it by hand, but I will try to make a video like that for you.
@@CatherineSews Thanks so much! 🙏
Hi, great video - is the front t-shirt the exact same increment as the back?
You mentioned having the bodice a half inch longer, if you were grading to a 1” instead, would you have just made it a quarter inch longer?
Please can you show how to grade a princess bodice up to a larger size. Thank you
Ok, I will add that to my To Do list! Thanks for watching.
firstly, thank you soo much Cathrine for this Video. i am new to pattern grading and found this super helpful.
I am a bit confused though, was hoping you can clarify this for me. You said you are going up by 2" all together and dividing it into 4 quadrants which would be 1/2" total in each piece. In the example you gave for the top and shorts with 4 pieces, the amount you're adding is coming up to 1" which multiplied by 4 pieces is double what you are suggesting. so instead of going up by 2" i end up going up by 4.
Could you provide some clarification, it would be so helpful, Thank youu!!!!!!!
Good catch, Zara! After I made this video, I realized my error, so I posted a correction. You'll find the link in the description box.
How do you know how to balance or where exactly to grade? Are these grading places the same everywhere?
I got it. Thank you for this video.
@@puledressdesigns It's not an easy thing to understand, so I'm glad you'r feeling like you've got it now. At some point I'll make another video that explains a bit more about grading, but until then, just let me know if you have any questions.
@@CatherineSews I’ve always wanted to learn how to grade. I have this ruler like paper that grades but I wanted to learn how to manually grade with just a ruler, pencil and a sheet of paper. This video clarified everything. I read a comment about the dart so I will go back and read up on that. Would love to see more videos on grading though. Thank you again.
God bless
Oh I have a Pajamas Short Pattern where the front is fine the length is fine but the back piece is 2 inches wider than necessary
So I’m just guessing I sliced the pattern piece down the middle move it in 2 inches and then true up the other lines like the waistline and the hemline?
I still grade by hand 🙂
Yes, sister!! We must be from the same generation!
What books would you recommend to learn more about this topic?
Excellent question. I don't think I've ever seen a book on it!
In your sketch why didn't you add 1/4 of an inch to each side of the sleeve?
Hey mam, if there is dart how much you move ?
I need someone to coach me for pattern grading by Gerber or whatever? Do you think we can have a meeting online! Please let me know.
Hi i noticed, in the beginning on your small sketches you said you wanted the front bodice to be 1/2 inch longer. But on the vertical lines in the neckline and sleeve you put 1/8, then on the vertical side seam you put 3/8. That doesn’t equal 1/2 inch if you add the side seam and the vertical arm hole line. I’m confused. Then on the center front vertical line you put /8. I don’t understand what you did there. Please help. I hope you answer 🙏🏾
I just rewatched that section and either I forgot to write the 3 in the 3/8 on the centre front edge as I was saying it, or it’s just hard to see! (On second look, I think you’re right! I said 3/8 but I only wrote /8!) So yes, it should say 3/8 on the centre front to balance the 3/8 on the side seam. Add the 1/8 in the neck/shoulder. 1:8 + 3/8 = 4/8 = 1/2. Sorry for any confusion!
@@CatherineSews thank you for responding :) i got confused because the horizontal lines at the top of the bodice all equal 1/2 inch to balance the bottom. So i was expecting the left side vertical lines to equal 1/2 and the right side to equal 1/2. I was doing 3/8+1/8=7/16 of an inch. Because i wasn’t getting 1/2 inch on the vertical like i got on the horizontal i got lost.
Hey Catherine, I wanted to know how do you grade a pattern that has darts? Where do you put/move the darts to?
Great question! You want to keep the dart directed to the bust point, so the safest route is to split your grading increment and put half before the dart and half after.
I got no idea, especially working in inches,
A tad confusing when you say slide down, but move the original pattern piece to your right.
Try rubbing alcohol to remove permanent marker from your ruler.
I hope this isn’t offensive but things used to be so less confusing technology has arguably complicated my life entirely
I appreciated what you are doing but I am not understanding it at all.
Sorry I got lost
What irks me is if I find something that fits my middle, the neckline is like a dinnerplate. What's with explanding the neckline on women's wear???! Men are the ones whose necks get larger, not women.
I see why it's done by computer. Yikes
Not clear exzplain
I think I get it! Thanks for explaining so clearly.