Tibloc & Microtraxion combo is money for both hauling systems and self-rescue rope ascending, so much faster to setup and use. A hero loop or hollow block as a backup is nice and light but I've seen them slip on icy ropes.
Hey Ryan, @7:05min when you say “to have two carabiners to clip into the rope” are you referring to traversing across glaciers and clipping into a figure 8 on a bight?
@@ryantilley9063 that’s perfect, thank you for the clarification. I’m trying to establish the minimal number of components for a ski touring kit capable of crevasse traversing and rescue as well as the ability to repel into a chute. The Petzl RAD kit uses a 6.0 static cord (EN 564, same as the Black Diamond 6.0 Accessory Cord). What are your thoughts on using this as a safety line for ski touring along a ridge? I don’t think the system would be shock-loaded any more than a skier falling into a crevasse.
Are you talking about using it as a safety line while traversing a slope and if someone falls you can hold them from sliding all the way down? In that case it should be fine, you’re right that it wouldn’t be any more force than a skier falling in a crevasse.
@@ryantilley9063 yes - that’s exactly what I was thinking. Thank you. One final question - the Petzl RAD kit come with 30 meters of rope, however I had seen some people commenting they wish they had a little more (40 meters if possible). If you could choose, what length would you prefer? (For context, I foresee this being used between two, possibly three people.)
2 people you can get away with a 30m but it’s not really the best, I prefer a 40m it gives you a little extra for more complex rescues and more options.
Bowline Dandy ya definitely, This is the stuff that I usually bring with me while guiding and climbing in Washington. I have a paired down version for all the mountains in Mexico.
Does the magnetron give you any trouble in wet/icy conditions? I heard it sometimes locks up when getting wet , or won't lock properly if exposed to sand, any experience with any issues ?
Ya, my main issue is using it with gloves, because the extra material gets in the way of me trying to open it, but that’s a problem more specific to me that other folks don’t have. I try not to use the magnetron on volcanoes because the magnetized particles will get stuck on the locking mechanism (accept for the one in the video because I need that specific locker in order to only have one carabiner to clip myself in.) I havn’t heard of problems with them getting iced up, but I could see how it would happen, I think you could bang it against the wall to get all the ice knocked off and it would still work, I’ll have to play around with that next time I’m ice climbing.
I use a Petzl Sm'D triact for my glacier rope attachment. No anti-cross loading feature but the shape of that carabiner prevents cross loading somehow (Petzl design magic) and it's more multi-use than a belay-specific one.
I started by doing tons of climbing and recording it all, the point was to get a good resume with a lot of climbs for the area that I wanted to work in, the next step is getting some certifications, like a wilderness first responder and a single pitch instructors cert. then after that it's all about meeting the right people and networking. Are you thinking about getting into guiding?
@@ryantilley9063 I would love to down the road 3-4 years from now. I am looking for a great mentor to learn trad climbing currently. Becoming a guide would be a dream come true though.
Tibloc & Microtraxion combo is money for both hauling systems and self-rescue rope ascending, so much faster to setup and use. A hero loop or hollow block as a backup is nice and light but I've seen them slip on icy ropes.
Thanks for the great content! Please keep recording!
Thank you for the tour!
What width slings do recommend? Different depending on the purpose?
Hey Ryan, @7:05min when you say “to have two carabiners to clip into the rope” are you referring to traversing across glaciers and clipping into a figure 8 on a bight?
Ya that’s what I’m talking about
@@ryantilley9063 that’s perfect, thank you for the clarification.
I’m trying to establish the minimal number of components for a ski touring kit capable of crevasse traversing and rescue as well as the ability to repel into a chute. The Petzl RAD kit uses a 6.0 static cord (EN 564, same as the Black Diamond 6.0 Accessory Cord). What are your thoughts on using this as a safety line for ski touring along a ridge? I don’t think the system would be shock-loaded any more than a skier falling into a crevasse.
Are you talking about using it as a safety line while traversing a slope and if someone falls you can hold them from sliding all the way down? In that case it should be fine, you’re right that it wouldn’t be any more force than a skier falling in a crevasse.
@@ryantilley9063 yes - that’s exactly what I was thinking. Thank you.
One final question - the Petzl RAD kit come with 30 meters of rope, however I had seen some people commenting they wish they had a little more (40 meters if possible). If you could choose, what length would you prefer? (For context, I foresee this being used between two, possibly three people.)
2 people you can get away with a 30m but it’s not really the best, I prefer a 40m it gives you a little extra for more complex rescues and more options.
Can you do a short video of how you wrap and store your slings on the carabiner?
Hey there I think that kit is definitely overkill for Malinche. Could bring on Iztaccíhuatl. Definitely bring to Pico de Orizaba.
Bowline Dandy ya definitely, This is the stuff that I usually bring with me while guiding and climbing in Washington. I have a paired down version for all the mountains in Mexico.
Does the magnetron give you any trouble in wet/icy conditions? I heard it sometimes locks up when getting wet , or won't lock properly if exposed to sand, any experience with any issues ?
Ya, my main issue is using it with gloves, because the extra material gets in the way of me trying to open it, but that’s a problem more specific to me that other folks don’t have. I try not to use the magnetron on volcanoes because the magnetized particles will get stuck on the locking mechanism (accept for the one in the video because I need that specific locker in order to only have one carabiner to clip myself in.) I havn’t heard of problems with them getting iced up, but I could see how it would happen, I think you could bang it against the wall to get all the ice knocked off and it would still work, I’ll have to play around with that next time I’m ice climbing.
I use a Petzl Sm'D triact for my glacier rope attachment. No anti-cross loading feature but the shape of that carabiner prevents cross loading somehow (Petzl design magic) and it's more multi-use than a belay-specific one.
ryan climbing inc
How did you become a guide?
I started by doing tons of climbing and recording it all, the point was to get a good resume with a lot of climbs for the area that I wanted to work in, the next step is getting some certifications, like a wilderness first responder and a single pitch instructors cert. then after that it's all about meeting the right people and networking. Are you thinking about getting into guiding?
@@ryantilley9063 I would love to down the road 3-4 years from now. I am looking for a great mentor to learn trad climbing currently. Becoming a guide would be a dream come true though.
👍
Way overkill IMHO