University teacher 🙂 To be honest, I watched almost 100 videos about bb, cassette cleaning etc. Clarity and explanatory wise this one was nr 1 by distance. Kudos, keep up my friend.
Thank you so much for your excellent presentation. While I do not see myself doing this change, just watching you gives me a better understanding of my bikes' workings and less fear.of doing my own maintenance.
I want to get some 36h hubs and the only ones I can find on ebay are the old style 7 speed free hub bodies. I'd like to convert it like this. I didn't even think that this was even possible. This is very helpful. Thank you.
One thing you should be mindfull of is freehub compatibility. Most shimano freehubs can be undone with a 10 mm Allen key but some require different tools and the splines will differ from model to model as well. Some different hub models will use the same amount of splines and mounting system but will require some good research before hand.
My 7-speed Shimano freehub body slides out nicely. I just have to undo the cassette lock nut, remove the cassette and then slide the freehub body out on the shaft. Very easy to remove and clean/service/replace.
SickBiker, What I was taught when I was taking automotive classes before I became an Automotive Master technician is NEVER use a magnet for removing bearings. There is a possibility that the bearings will get magnetized and attract worn metal shavings. This will cause the bearings to self destruct.
I was cleaning my chain and had it removed. I noticed that spinning the gears might need service. So you just showed me how to take it apart. You read my mind....wild :)
Nice useful video. I have just replaced my MTB 3x7 Shimano type freehub body (which had 3 pawls and one of them failed because the freehub body cracked where it sits) with a new similar 3x7 freehub body, but with 6 pawls. I was not sure that it would work but it went in perfectly and engages like a dream. I love how today's modern promotional media has managed to convince the people that going from 21 speeds to 18, 11 or 10 speeds is actually an 'upgrade'. LOL thank you but no thank you. I'll stick to my wider 21 gear range and will not downgrade to less gears.
It is to be said that often 10-52 tooth cassettes have the same range as 21 speeds, i like 21 speeds and they do have a good amount of pros, like the quick downshifts but 12 speeds are lighter have less chain falling off type problems as well as a cleaner cockpit and less service needs, it really depends on what you prefer
Nice one, I have an old set of lovely Mavic 231's with a 7-speed Deore LX hub, and having an 8-speed cassette would really open up the gears that I could use in a 2 x/ 1 x scenario, and I could carry on using my old 1989 Deore II thumbshifters (they have a "secret" 8th click)
NDS obviously, BUT after removing the 7speed axle you need to remove the drive side cone to swop it over to the longer 9-10-11 axle. You will have to re-dish the wheel to re-center it in the frame.
I know. I think this guy gives a-lot of bad advise. Or at least a-lot off incomplete advise. I mean, I can already think of tons of stuff wrong with this video and things he never even comes close to discussing to make this "project" even viable. Couple are the things you mentioned (longer axle, dishing.) And that's only the beginning. smh
@@peterjv8748 hey man, i need help.. please if you know answer me back.. i am doing a 7speed shimano exage 126mm dropout rear wheel with freehub body upgrade to 10 speed shimano tiagra. i bought FH-m525a freebody that comes from deore rear hub and now my question is which cone i need so i can put the new part on my axle. do i need the whole right nut parts that come with the deore axle or i can complete this with my old exage right side nut parts. also i am planing to use my original axle bolt and plan to just put the wheel by litle bit of squeezing since it will most probably be 130mm after the whole replacing and locking is done?
@@serafar Several reasons I don't think it will work. Spacing, dishing would be a struggle even for experienced wheel builders. Is your frame steel? If so, I think you'd be better off getting a whole new wheel. One with 130mm O.L.D. spacing will be hard to find. So cold setting the frame to a 135mm rear dropouts is probably your best bet. 135mm hubs/wheels are plentiful and cheap.
@@peterjv8748 yes it is steel frame and it goes streatching to 130mm no problem. I've read a lot on many forums that you can do 10 speed up. with 130mm hub rearangement from 126mm hub like my exage is. Ill try anyway before i decide if ill need to buy a new 130 or 135mm hub. Point is this road bike has all exage groupset so i plan to reuse the hubs and the crankset with the breaks to keep the retro flavor.
130mm QR hubs are inexpensive and widely available as they are the old road bike standard. 11 speed road and mountain (with included 1.65 mm cassette spacer) compatible. Go nuts!
my bike was 3x7 and I change a new hub and use a 1x12 SRAM NX and it works perfectly. You can show you bike to a mechanic that want to help you and not to sell a new bike.
with the freehub, the total length is not measured, but the length of the mounted cartridge!😁😁 Shimano 7speed is 31mm respectively 30,9mm and 8-10speed is 35 res. 34,9mm😎
Don't forget that when you do this kind of transformation the wheel is going to be off center due to the fact that the drive side is going to be longer and by this the non drive side shorter. Correct it by realign your wheel. 🤙
@@arbjful Slightly loosen all spokes on one side then tighten all the spokes on the other side the same amount (work in increments of 1/4 turn of spoke nipples). The rim will shift away from loosened spokes side to tightened spokes side, and should stay true.
I have a trek marlin 6 2021 model, and it did came with a 2x7 speed so I put a 12 speed and it did worked good, of course 12 speed shifter derailleur too .!
@@justasducinskas633 You might be right but I don’t think so. I’m still riding my ‘86 Zebra and did all this over the the years on it as I upgraded. The important measurements start at 4:56. Look carefully at 5:38 and the cone stack height. The 8+ speed cone assembly appears to fall about 3mm lower but is thinner. As he says, one would have to pull the the stays apart to insert the wheel, that difference has to go somewhere. I’m pretty sure the dish would need 2-3mm adjustment.
@@jjsoledad8553 nope. You need a shifter that matches the cassette.. chain ring spacing could need to be changed but it shouldn’t if you aren’t changing anything up front.
The bolt that goes through the rear hub has snapped when trying to get the hub off, any tips to get it off now? I can turn one side but impossible for me to grip the other side! :(
Timely video, thanks for sharing. Do you not have to re-dish the wheel or adjust spacers on the axle to account for the 3mm difference between old freehub and new freehub?
Good day, this is really a timely helpful video for me. Nicely done. I got question though if you don't mind. My 9 speed shimano freehub is not freewheel anymore that means I keep on pedaling forward without stopping. Any Idea or video how to fix this kind of problem and what are the tools needed? Thanks in advance. I hope you can put some video how to resolve this kind of bike problems. More power to your channel!
The answer for your question is: You have to remove the nut from the non drive side. The cone and nut of the drive side are stuck togeter on propouse ;) I think you know why :D !!!
This video was golden! I have wondered if the rear cassette can be upgraded without going for a complete drivetrain. If the larger freehub body will take 8, 9 , 10 or 11 speed does this mean that I should be able to upgrade my 9-speed Shimano 105 cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette without changing the freehub body?
Yes, 9, 10 and 11 use the same length freehub. The space between sprockets is changing so you can fit more sprockets. That's why you need a different chain. Because chains for more gears are narrower.
@@DimitrisConstantinou I have a 10 speed rear wheel and I can't upgrade it with an 11 speed. There is about 1.6 mm difference. I basically removed one sprocket in order to fit it on the 10 speed hub. There are few videos here in YT explain this situation....many thanks
not all hubs interchangeable, shimano intentionaly changed design to prevent this, i looked for 8gear body to replace broken 8 gear body and it was problem
hello, thank you for this video, i have a question can i use an 2x9 crankset on a 2x10 bike? i need to change the length of the crank arm and try to keep the budget low in case i need to go even shorter. I'm replacing a 172.5 for 170 mm.
Hi I have an 6061 aluminium frame hybrid bike 7x3 speed drivetrain with an older freewheel set up...is it possible for me to equip the bike with an 8-11 speed similar to stock 36 hole hub with the stock dropout measurements ?
But what if u have a solid threaded axle that does not pull through the wheel so u can not remove the axle?? What do i do in that situation,will the end of the wheel that u pulled the hub off that spline screw or attach onto my axle so i can then follow your steps or is there another system
How do you find the right freehub body for the upgrade? I ordered one for Shimano and it doesn't fit. Also do you use the big axle or the small one? Thanks !
Any suggestions ...I have an entry level specialized rockhopper sport with the new cues 1x9 system. It works fine. . The only annoying thing is the amount of play in the rear hub before the gear reingages. My bike shop had no idea what I was talking about. .....135 x9mm rear hub with quick release... link glide cassette not compatible with micro spline or hyperglide
did you measure how deep the lockring goes in to the freehub body (how many turns are needed to tigthen the lockring to 40Nm)? I did the same and with a 11 speed HG Deore cassette and a 34.9mm (a standard) freewheel but mine just need 1.5 turn to reach 40Nm, that I believe is not enough a longer lockring is needed. with a 135mm frame there are no issues about spacing.....
Question, I am getting a Giant Talon 4 and plan to upgrade the drivetrain to Deore 1 X 12 speed, so I need need to change the freehub body and axle right? how about the bottom bracket ? It has a cartridge BB.. thanks
just be careful when re-greasing bearings. i went abit over the top, they was tight but after a few rides they went lose again. just dont put to much grease on them lol
Sounds like you made the cone to tight. I use lots of grease its never causes tight resistance. Having the cones too tight or too loose will cause scoring and premature wear to the bearings and cones.
University teacher 🙂 To be honest, I watched almost 100 videos about bb, cassette cleaning etc. Clarity and explanatory wise this one was nr 1 by distance. Kudos, keep up my friend.
just what I needed to know. a cup of coffee to thank you!
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your excellent presentation. While I do not see myself doing this change, just watching you gives me a better understanding of my bikes' workings and less fear.of doing my own maintenance.
i didn’t not know that you can upgrade the freebody, i’ve thought that you have to buy a whole new wheel bro. nice video!
I want to get some 36h hubs and the only ones I can find on ebay are the old style 7 speed free hub bodies. I'd like to convert it like this. I didn't even think that this was even possible. This is very helpful. Thank you.
One thing you should be mindfull of is freehub compatibility. Most shimano freehubs can be undone with a 10 mm Allen key but some require different tools and the splines will differ from model to model as well. Some different hub models will use the same amount of splines and mounting system but will require some good research before hand.
My 7-speed Shimano freehub body slides out nicely. I just have to undo the cassette lock nut, remove the cassette and then slide the freehub body out on the shaft. Very easy to remove and clean/service/replace.
SickBiker, What I was taught when I was taking automotive classes before I became an Automotive Master technician is NEVER use a magnet for removing bearings. There is a possibility that the bearings will get magnetized and attract worn metal shavings. This will cause the bearings to self destruct.
good note
@@makantahi3731 Your user name translated in Filipino is funny. LOL
@@b-lopez394 yeah,i know,i took it because useless discusion with idiots that claim stupid teories about anything
Hola, de cuánto es la llave alem para sacar el body?
@@nahuelmachado1185 eso depende puede ser 10mm 11mm o 12mm
Very interesting video, thank you very much. The good side for dismount the axle is the left one (non drive side) 😉
I was cleaning my chain and had it removed. I noticed that spinning the gears might need service. So you just showed me how to take it apart. You read my mind....wild :)
Nice useful video. I have just replaced my MTB 3x7 Shimano type freehub body (which had 3 pawls and one of them failed because the freehub body cracked where it sits) with a new similar 3x7 freehub body, but with 6 pawls. I was not sure that it would work but it went in perfectly and engages like a dream. I love how today's modern promotional media has managed to convince the people that going from 21 speeds to 18, 11 or 10 speeds is actually an 'upgrade'. LOL thank you but no thank you. I'll stick to my wider 21 gear range and will not downgrade to less gears.
With 3x7 you dont have 21 speeds, you will only use 11 or 12 of them. So 1x12 is same but less weight 🙃
@@valerioviti6630Actually with 21 speed 3x7 I have at least 15 usable gears.
It is to be said that often 10-52 tooth cassettes have the same range as 21 speeds, i like 21 speeds and they do have a good amount of pros, like the quick downshifts but 12 speeds are lighter have less chain falling off type problems as well as a cleaner cockpit and less service needs, it really depends on what you prefer
Nice one, I have an old set of lovely Mavic 231's with a 7-speed Deore LX hub, and having an 8-speed cassette would really open up the gears that I could use in a 2 x/ 1 x scenario, and I could carry on using my old 1989 Deore II thumbshifters (they have a "secret" 8th click)
NDS obviously, BUT after removing the 7speed axle you need to remove the drive side cone to swop it over to the longer 9-10-11 axle.
You will have to re-dish the wheel to re-center it in the frame.
I know. I think this guy gives a-lot of bad advise. Or at least a-lot off incomplete advise. I mean, I can already think of tons of stuff wrong with this video and things he never even comes close to discussing to make this "project" even viable. Couple are the things you mentioned (longer axle, dishing.) And that's only the beginning. smh
@@peterjv8748 hey man, i need help.. please if you know answer me back.. i am doing a 7speed shimano exage 126mm dropout rear wheel with freehub body upgrade to 10 speed shimano tiagra. i bought FH-m525a freebody that comes from deore rear hub and now my question is which cone i need so i can put the new part on my axle. do i need the whole right nut parts that come with the deore axle or i can complete this with my old exage right side nut parts. also i am planing to use my original axle bolt and plan to just put the wheel by litle bit of squeezing since it will most probably be 130mm after the whole replacing and locking is done?
@@serafar Several reasons I don't think it will work. Spacing, dishing would be a struggle even for experienced wheel builders. Is your frame steel? If so, I think you'd be better off getting a whole new wheel. One with 130mm O.L.D. spacing will be hard to find. So cold setting the frame to a 135mm rear dropouts is probably your best bet. 135mm hubs/wheels are plentiful and cheap.
@@peterjv8748 yes it is steel frame and it goes streatching to 130mm no problem. I've read a lot on many forums that you can do 10 speed up.
with 130mm hub rearangement from 126mm hub like my exage is. Ill try anyway before i decide if ill need to buy a new 130 or 135mm hub. Point is this road bike has all exage groupset so i plan to reuse the hubs and the crankset with the breaks to keep the retro flavor.
130mm QR hubs are inexpensive and widely available as they are the old road bike standard. 11 speed road and mountain (with included 1.65 mm cassette spacer) compatible. Go nuts!
i did it in 1996. from 6 to 8 gears, shimano sante, and i still have been driving it on road bike
If you do it this way than the wheel will not be centered in the frame! For total perfection You have to center the wheel with the new freehub body
Dish the wheel you mean?
Most bike frame will have enough clearance. You will be fine
Yes, dished to center, half the difference of shift.
Apa harus satu merek body frehubnya
my bike was 3x7 and I change a new hub and use a 1x12 SRAM NX and it works perfectly. You can show you bike to a mechanic that want to help you and not to sell a new bike.
Made the swap first try! Thanks for the video. I needed to dish the wheel a little, but that was surprisingly easy too!
with the freehub, the total length is not measured, but the length of the mounted cartridge!😁😁 Shimano 7speed is 31mm respectively 30,9mm and 8-10speed is 35 res. 34,9mm😎
The 8,9,10,11sp hub will also fit a 12sp sram nx cassette, if you got this fitted and want to switch Shimano for Sram
Thank you very much. I have been looking for a video instruction like yours. I will try it out by bringing life back from a 9 spds to 11 spds.
Love and best wishes , Danny . Happy new year . Your no - nonsense content is good . I have done freehub conversions like this last year .
You are super good teacher
Thanks, from USA
Open the non drive side. : ) Thanks for the precious info. Good luck n all the best!!! : )
Cool...that's simple step. Now I know how to "fix" my bike...thanks bro...Peace from Indonesia
Really good presentation. I would like you finish the whole work though. But, you explained the process very well and could not be clear
Thank you much,I can learn more about all things specific technical points/scenarios about bike problems.
So, you also changed the axel, right? No issues with the dishing?
Thank you. Answer: Remove cone and spacers from the non-drive side!
I was wondering if i could replace the hub body, great video 👍
Great video! This is a project that I've been putting off, but now I know what to do - thanks!
Don't forget that when you do this kind of transformation the wheel is going to be off center due to the fact that the drive side is going to be longer and by this the non drive side shorter. Correct it by realign your wheel. 🤙
You're right, it's half of the additional 3 mm off-center.
a
How is this done?
@@arbjful Slightly loosen all spokes on one side then tighten all the spokes on the other side the same amount (work in increments of 1/4 turn of spoke nipples). The rim will shift away from loosened spokes side to tightened spokes side, and should stay true.
6:20 , always the left side during this alteration to ensure chain clearance on the drive side .
The rim is out of dish (off center) now.
Thank you info, looks another difference is the 7 speed hub ha threading
Hello Sickbiker, very well done! 😃, really helped me to get off the 7 speed body of my hub
Mulțumim!
Thank you so much!
really cool but how much do you charge for this kind of replacement ? isnt more interessant to buy a brand new wheel with actual tech ?
Can i remove freehub body from not spoked freehub ? Can i just put cassete and use chain whip + 10mm hex ? Or I must hold freehub itself ?
That is very useful, very intelligent and pleasant. Ty.
Isn't a 15mm hex key required for the install of a 9 speed freehub?
Do you have to replace the axle with the longer one??? Also will you get a new mounting bolt with a new hub??
Good video. Though I never thought I would need more than seven in the back, I am upgrading to ten so I can go 1X for my greenway cruiser.
Remove nut from left or non drive side.
I have a trek marlin 6 2021 model, and it did came with a 2x7 speed so I put a 12 speed and it did worked good, of course 12 speed shifter derailleur too .!
Non-drive side.
I think in your closing you could have mentioned the dishing required to center the wheel.
BTW
Thanks for the video it was useful info especially the measurements.
not required if he's using the new axle
@@justasducinskas633
You might be right but I don’t think so. I’m still riding my ‘86 Zebra and did all this over the the years on it as I upgraded. The important measurements start at 4:56.
Look carefully at 5:38 and the cone stack height. The 8+ speed cone assembly appears to fall about 3mm lower but is thinner. As he says, one would have to pull the the stays apart to insert the wheel, that difference has to go somewhere. I’m pretty sure the dish would need 2-3mm adjustment.
No one has ever told me that I should worry about my balls getting magnetized...!!! LOL
Nothing said about changing the chain ring/BB off set. This needs to be done otherwise you will have problems with gear selection and chain wear.
Not sure about this but don't you also need to change the rd, cables & cable housings?
@@jjsoledad8553 nope. You need a shifter that matches the cassette.. chain ring spacing could need to be changed but it shouldn’t if you aren’t changing anything up front.
Non drive side.
Great video. Thx!
do you need to re-dish the wheel since there's added width to the drive-side?
If you don't remove any spacers on the axle non-drive-side, and bent the frame on the drive side only, then no re-dishing required
Thanks so much...great tuto and the answer is the left side..non drive side
Excellent video. Thanks
The bolt that goes through the rear hub has snapped when trying to get the hub off, any tips to get it off now? I can turn one side but impossible for me to grip the other side! :(
Personally I want to do the opposite. Makes for a stronger rear wheel. Lately I've been "downgrading" to 5 speeds. There's almost no dish!
The non drive side to remove the axle. Great video next will be to true the wheel video after changing and keeping it in the middle of the frame. ✌
1:53 "if you're not worried about your balls getting magnetised .." nah, its the clanging noise when I walk that is really the problem.
🤣🤣
This really helped me. Thank you for sharing this video.
Timely video, thanks for sharing. Do you not have to re-dish the wheel or adjust spacers on the axle to account for the 3mm difference between old freehub and new freehub?
The first option is the correct one.
5:50 Instead of pulling appart rear triangle to fit bigger freehub, is not it better to remove one spacer from drive side ?
If you look at the first axle(from 7speed hub) then it has more spacers than the second axle (from 9speed hub)
Good day, this is really a timely helpful video for me. Nicely done. I got question though if you don't mind. My 9 speed shimano freehub is not freewheel anymore that means I keep on pedaling forward without stopping. Any Idea or video how to fix this kind of problem and what are the tools needed? Thanks in advance. I hope you can put some video how to resolve this kind of bike problems. More power to your channel!
Loosen the non drive side nut to take out the axle.
Perfect explanation. Thank you!
Thank you Sir, this was very Knowledgeable.
The answer for your question is: You have to remove the nut from the non drive side. The cone and nut of the drive side are stuck togeter on propouse ;) I think you know why :D !!!
I changed full hub that has sealed bearings, its probably much better to change the whole hub
thank you, this is the video I needed to see!
This video was golden! I have wondered if the rear cassette can be upgraded without going for a complete drivetrain. If the larger freehub body will take 8, 9 , 10 or 11 speed does this mean that I should be able to upgrade my 9-speed Shimano 105 cassette to an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette without changing the freehub body?
Yes, 9, 10 and 11 use the same length freehub. The space between sprockets is changing so you can fit more sprockets. That's why you need a different chain. Because chains for more gears are narrower.
@@DimitrisConstantinou Thanks, that was very helpful.
@@DimitrisConstantinou I have a 10 speed rear wheel and I can't upgrade it with an 11 speed. There is about 1.6 mm difference. I basically removed one sprocket in order to fit it on the 10 speed hub. There are few videos here in YT explain this situation....many thanks
not all hubs interchangeable, shimano intentionaly changed design to prevent this, i looked for 8gear body to replace broken 8 gear body and it was problem
@@PRCYCLINGFAN Do you have a road bike?
hello, thank you for this video, i have a question can i use an 2x9 crankset on a 2x10 bike? i need to change the length of the crank arm and try to keep the budget low in case i need to go even shorter. I'm replacing a 172.5 for 170 mm.
hello to replace a Campagnolo 11sp freehub to Shimano 11sp is it possible? thanks I hope you can guide me
great video again👍
I've done the opposite 8 to 7 body hubs many times when I still ride singlespeed since I destroyed them frequently LoL.
Hi I have an 6061 aluminium frame hybrid bike 7x3 speed drivetrain with an older freewheel set up...is it possible for me to equip the bike with an 8-11 speed similar to stock 36 hole hub with the stock dropout measurements ?
Yes, but you will have to redish your wheel (loosen on the left, tighten on the right). It will make the difference in spoke tensions even greater ;-(
my freehub body was a 12mm hex key
I speak spanish, but i undestood all. Thank you.
Hi ,can you show how to service (re-Grease)the multi rings Shimano bottom bracket?
Thanks from Russian mechanic :)
But what if u have a solid threaded axle that does not pull through the wheel so u can not remove the axle?? What do i do in that situation,will the end of the wheel that u pulled the hub off that spline screw or attach onto my axle so i can then follow your steps or is there another system
The problem I have is that they sell the hub, but not the axle and other parts.
How do you find the right freehub body for the upgrade? I ordered one for Shimano and it doesn't fit. Also do you use the big axle or the small one? Thanks !
The link your your orange Allen key does not work. Could you give the full name for it or refresh the link please. Thank you
Most helpful.
Any suggestions ...I have an entry level specialized rockhopper sport with the new cues 1x9 system. It works fine. . The only annoying thing is the amount of play in the rear hub before the gear reingages. My bike shop had no idea what I was talking about. .....135 x9mm rear hub with quick release... link glide cassette not compatible with micro spline or hyperglide
Oh you just saved me money 💰! Thanks man.
I gather you would have to swap axels as well and could you do this with 13 speed too
Will the old fastening bolt work with the new hub body?
I should adjust the cone on the drive side in order to compensate for the larger hub correct?
Great video!!
Very nice information bro 🚲
That was beautiful!
did you measure how deep the lockring goes in to the freehub body (how many turns are needed to tigthen the lockring to 40Nm)?
I did the same and with a 11 speed HG Deore cassette and a 34.9mm (a standard) freewheel but mine just need 1.5 turn to reach 40Nm, that I believe is not enough a longer lockring is needed.
with a 135mm frame there are no issues about spacing.....
it might be variating. but it's definitely 12mm HEX on the ones I have.
So much information left out
I got the Y31S98020 Freewheel Body Unit for the FH -TX505 (Schimano). 10mm Elankey don`t work. Do I need some other tools?
Question, I am getting a Giant Talon 4 and plan to upgrade the drivetrain to Deore 1 X 12 speed, so I need need to change the freehub body and axle right? how about the bottom bracket ? It has a cartridge BB.. thanks
What type change new freehub body 9,10,11 speed
Hi I am so Thank you.
Is the same structure for a MicroSpline Body?
The important measurements start at 4:56.
Thanks for the lesson
Looks like shorter hub also has threading?
This applies to a general service and not a 7 to 8 - 11 speed freewheel body changeover .
Do you leave the 3 mm spacer out at the assembly?
Can you buy microspline freehub body?
We have the same rearhub for my road bike.. My problem is the cup for the bearings i dont know how to remove it.
just be careful when re-greasing bearings. i went abit over the top, they was tight but after a few rides they went lose again. just dont put to much grease on them lol
Sounds like you made the cone to tight. I use lots of grease its never causes tight resistance. Having the cones too tight or too loose will cause scoring and premature wear to the bearings and cones.