It's nice that you have electricity to use during this build but imagine not having it really out in the bush 😂 it's guess and go or rotten food off grid sometimes you have to cut corners to maintain living in certain circumstances with food storage vs safety if you know what I mean it's real survival not glamping in the RV but that's how I like it real living or dying in the bush with kids.
Very Helpful for a beginner. I am an Electrical Engineering Technician. Recently retired after 38 years of bliss (Sarcasm...LOL). The parallel wires that came pre crimped from the factory for the inverter. I would say are ok to use. However for long term use. I would recommend a larger gauge wire in one run and scrap the parallel stuff. One thing I thought I would mention . Over current protection, be it a fuse or breaker. Is there to protect the wiring (As this is what would catch fire) and not the components of the system. I would also suggest that ferrels be used on the stripped wire when connecting to a device that uses cage clamp or screw clamp at the point of termination. If it is a screw on a bus bar or something (possibly a stud) a ring terminal is a great option. Your presentation is great! I just thaought I would throw a couple of things out there.
I appreciate your feedback and tips. This video was one of my first ones. I have learned more since and in my 24v system build video, I believe I properly fused the system as well as used all ferrule connections where needed.
As a complete newbie, this is the most I've ever understood someone explaining electrical. I'm moving into a skoolie full-time and would love more videos like this!
I enjoyed this video. It great when you find someone willing to take there time explaining as much as possible. After watching many videos I feel that I could make a power system. Thank you.
I may have missed it but if I didn't, I would emphasize that you must connect the battery to the solar charge controller before you connect the solar panels to it. This is critical to prevent damaging the charge controller. Also, before connecting the solar panels, make sure you have the solar charger set for the proper type of battery you are using. This is also a critical setting. (I see you addressed these issues later down in the comment replies, but feel it is still good to have it mentioned here in a comment...rather than deeper in replies.) Nice simple review...easy for anyone to follow and begin making their solar generating system. Thanks.
Excellent presentation, explanation and demonstration. It's the first time I truly understand how to set-up a basic solar system for beginners after looking at so many others, you are a true teacher and the best thing about you is that, you are a very humble person given the comments made by others, where you accept the fact that you probably made some little mistakes and is wise enough to take others advice and further develop yourself, and that's very admirable. Continue doing your videos my friend and all the best in your research for more knowledge to which you can pass it on to others. Blessing to you and your family.
I recently bought the same charge controller, I noticed in your video when you were showing the app that it appears that it was still in led acid mode, be sure to go into the parameter settings tab at the bottom and change it to lithium mode, or user mode with the correct settings for the battery otherwise it will not charge the battery properly. Other than that and a few other small things (I realize this was not a permanent setup and was just for demonstration) great job on the video!
Thanks for catching that. I don't use this 12v system day to day anymore since I built my 24v system. I do crank up this 12v system from time to time. I will check that setting when I bring this 12v system up again.
Good video. I had a similar setup less the inverter. You can get inline MC4 fuses. I would suggest putting one between the solar panels an the charge controller. 👍
I should probably get an inline fuse. I have read varying opinions. I have read that if you wire your panels in series, as I have, you don't need an inline fuse. Then I read on Renogy's site that they suggest a fuse there, so I should get one.
I install a fuse or other circuit-breaker downstream of any electric source: * battery * alternator/generator * photovoltaic. The fuse/breaker protects the cable/wire.
This is the best video I have seen on how to set up a system like this. Thank you very much. I live in a bus off grid in Alaska. I had electricity from a neighbor and a boyfriend for a few years and became complacent. This helped me a lot.
Really good videos you have, thanks! I am older and have some back and knee problems, and will be using mini 12v batteries and I will have at least one system with the Renogy flexible solar panels, which are VERY light! I do have folding portable panels and a couple of rigid panels, but am waiting for the Renogy 175 watt lightweight panels to have a sale, lol. I will put them on a platform cart or a dolly to wheel outside, as I do not have a secure yard.
When connecting an inverter to a battery, you should always follow this order: Connect the positive (+) wire first. This is a crucial safety measure. By connecting the positive side first, you significantly reduce the risk of an accidental short circuit if your negative wrench or cable were to touch a grounded part of your system while connecting. Connect the negative (-) wire second. Once the positive side is secured, you can safely connect the negative terminal. Important Reminders: Turn off the inverter: Ensure the inverter is switched off before making any connections. Wear protective gear: Gloves and safety glasses are recommended. Check polarity: Double-check the correct polarity of your inverter terminals (usually red for positive, black for negative).
Thankyou for this video, it is very informative and u r a good teacher. Can I ask: can I set up 2, 12v batteries in series and then connect to a 24v 3000w/6000w peak inverter with an 100a mppt controller?. Thankyou.
Thanks for commenting. Just going off what you mentioned, yes. That should work. I would check the recommended charge current for the batteries. A lot of them recommend 20amps to preserve the long life of the batteries. A 100amp mppt controller would push 50amps into each battery. Which should be fine. But your batteries might not last as long. Just check the recommended charge current for those batteries. Its ok to go over a little, you just don't want to push 100amps into a battery that recommends 20amps. Even though that may be within the battery specifications.
I wanted to know about linking a solar and petrol generator to a battery bank, so was rather confused by this title. A more accurate title would be 'Beginner's Solar PV battery charging system with AC inverter'. Informative video though, just not what I was looking for!
Great channel and steady camera work thank you, I am looking to make a DIY solar generator that will run a small electric 1500 watt heater for my home made teardrop camper I built. I have a Honda generator but tired of the noise, the kit must be able to run thru the night with out issues and recharge during the day what would you suggest. Subscribed -
A 1500 watt heater may be too much for a 2000 watt inverter. It could run the heater, but continuous use of 1500 watts with a 2000 watt inverter may be too much. Especially if you have other loads. My understanding is that you should shoot for about half or less of an inverters rated capacity for continuous use. So a 3000 watt inverter or greater would most likely be a better choice. When you are running over a 2000 watt inverter, your wires will need to be rather large with a 12v system. So you want to look at least a 24v system (or 48v) to keep the wire sizes and costs down. Also, you need quite a bit of battery storage to be able to run a 1500 watt heater all night. I'm not sure how often the heater will need to run to keep the temperature comfortable. When I test systems, heaters are the best way to drain the battery quickly. You may be able to get by with 2kwh of battery storage. But I would say 4kwh would be better. If you planned to use solar the next day to charge, then you would need to have enough solar panels to charge back within one day. To charge back, you would need to be parked while charging with solar or grid power. You could charge back some with roof top panels while driving, but most likely it will not get back to 100% SOC. There are a lot of variables when trying to create a DIY system like this. I hope the information above helped.
You will also need terminal crimpers for the wire terminals. I saw that note about matching the equipment. For a real system be sure to match the current levels as well as the voltage. When setting up a power station it is a good idea to do some math before hooking up the wires. Current = watts / volts. 166.66 amps = 2,000 watts / 12 volts. On a 2,000 watt inverter you need a battery which can deliver at least 200 amps. The battery should say it has a 200 amp BMS. This example you are using a 100 Amp hour battery. The 100 amp hour battery has a 100 Amp BMS. The maximum watts for this battery is about 1,200 watts. In actual practice the voltage for a system which is higher than 2,000 watts should have at least 24 volts. By increasing the volts the wire diameter is smaller. Refer to a wire size chart to determine the minimum wire size needed. Also by increasing the volts the amount of current needed is less.
Thanks for commenting. No, you can add more solar. The amount of solar you can have is totally up to the solar charge controller. The one in this video allows up to 600watts for a 12v system. Here are the max wattage allowed by battery voltage for the charge controller in the video - 600W/12V; 1200W/24V; 1800W/36V; 2400W/48V. But you can get different solar charge controllers that will allow more wattage for 12v systems. One of the most important things to consider for solar charge controllers is that they accept a minimum and maximum voltage. The charge controller in the video lists the maximum voltage of 150v. If you go to 150v or over you will most likely burn up the controller. I can't find the minimum voltage, but if its under the minimum, it just won't charge.
Your fuse needs to be at the POS post of the battery First... before the wire run.. Same as from the panels to Controller needs a breaker or fuse and from Controller to battery... If your gonna show this stuff then it's up to YOU to explain and Push the Safety.
What's the best way to fast charge the battery from a propane generator? Seems like all of the batteries say they take 5 hours to charge, but most of the commercial "solar generators" can charge a 2000 watt power station in about an hour.
It depends on the amperage the battery charger. A 100ah 12v LiFePO4 battery can be charged zero to full in about 5 hours as they state. But that is using a 20amp battery charger. If you use a 40amp battery charger, it should theoretically charge in about 2.5 hours. So to charge one of these 100ah 12v batteries in about an hour, you would need about a 60 amp charger. Typically these 100ah batteries can be charged up to the BMS limit of 100amps, but to help the battery last longer they recommend only charging at a max of 40 amps. Of course this all could be different from battery to battery.
Yes it would. I should have made it more clear that this video was not for building an actual system. I was just trying to help beginners understand the different components and how they worked together using the equipment I had available at the time. In the near future I will be doing a video on my actual 12v system and then after that I will start building out a 24V system.
Good math on that 😊 E/I/R Electrical formula voltage/ current/resistance Earth science and physics are paying off Engineering is helpful too. Wire size for amps would be nice I'm curious 🤔 what's the amps on this build? What kind of fuses do you require for this or breaker switches? How hot are your wires getting on your overload? I'm not seeing any fuse box protection for this You need to check the power vs output consumption of the tools and other power consuming devices so you don't overload. You might need a few inverters to push the kind of power you are asking of this system for individual power options and operations. Add fans and a tool box with rollers and place an inverter or two on each wall with it's own controller box and batteries, panels and stand system
This video was an introduction to the basic concepts. I will be doing another video where I go into much greater detail and will include breakers, fuses, etc.
Thanks for the informative video! Suppose you set up something similar, but minus the battery, would that inverter be able to operate directly with an AC load during daytime to draw power from the panel? Is it something that depends on the inverter itself? Thanks in advance.
I do not believe that would work and I would not recommend trying it. The solar charge controller can be configured for different types of batteries. It uses the voltage of the battery and different algorithms to charge the batteries based on which type battery is configured. Also, I know that when connecting a solar charge controller, you should hook it to the battery first before hooking it to live PV input. It could damage the charge controller if you don't connect it in that order.
@@proficientprepper Thanks for replying! I tend to believe there are various inverters out there that can work without the presence of batteries, i was just wondering about this specific one.
To charge the battery by plugging into the wall you just need a LiFePO4 battery charger, if using a LiFePO4 battery. I use this one for 12v LiFePO4 batteries - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082LZNDRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
Can i ask why you’re running such a high inverter with that battery ? I thought the rule was for every 100ah its a 1000 watt inverter? I’m asking as i am learning and now I’m getting different results or answers
Well, you are almost correct. But first, I did use too large of an inverter for this video. My intention was just to use what I had to demonstrate the different components involved in a diy system. But I have introduced some confusion by not choosing the correct sized components for the demonstration. I did do another video titled "DIY Solar Generator Setup Complete Review - Beginner Friendly -12v" where I built a correctly sized complete 12v system using two batteries in parallel. Now, to get back to what you mentioned "I thought the rule was for every 100ah it's a 1000 watt inverter?". The rule of thumb you are referring to is for every 100amp BMS (Battery Management System) of the battery or battery bank, it's a 1000 watt inverter. Not 100ah (amp hour) which refers to how much storage the battery has. Amp hours have nothing to do with inverter size. The power queen battery I used in this video has a 100 amp BMS which means it can be charged/discharged at a maximum of 100 amps. Using the battery nominal voltage of 12.8, you could technically use an inverter up to 1280 watts (100 amp BMS x 12.8 volts) on this battery. But you don't want to max out your battery like this very often, it will reduce the life of the battery if you maxed it out all the time. I hope this helped!
Hi, I have a well water pump that needs 12,000 watts to run. I have two solar batteries at 6,000 watts each. Is it possible to combine 2 solar batteries of 6,000 each to make 12,000 watts to run my well water pump? If yes, what is the setup to make this possible? I'm currently using a 13,000 watts gas generator to run my water pump but gas prices too high. I want to use portable solar power station batteries instead.
It looks like you will need a sizable system to handle that water pump. I have not worked with anything that size yet and I don't feel comfortable advising you for this. But I'm thinking you are going to be looking at something like this EG4 system. See link below. You will most likely not require that many batteries though. You also have to consider the inverter(s). This system doesn't include solar panels either. The people at signature solar (link below) or current connected (www.currentconnected.com/) can help you size an appropriate system. signaturesolar.com/off-grid-eg4-system-13kw-120-240v-output-48vdc-30-72kwh-lithium-battery-bank-2-x-eg4-6500ex/
Thanks for commenting. I intended this video to just be a introduction of the different components involved and not an actual system you would use. I learned from the comments of this video that it is best to always use the correct sized components even when just demonstrating something. For beginners, it may create confusion. I did add a comment in the description that this video did not use correctly sized components and I believe I mentioned that in the video.
This is the link to the resistor amzn.to/3JQD3eI . It should still work with a 300ah battery. The battery I used in the video was a 100ah battery. If you have a 300ah battery of the same voltage, the only difference is the amount of storage.
Yes, the same resistor should work on a battery with 410ah of the same voltage. If you had a 24V or 48V system, I am not sure if this resistor would work. I would have to look into that.
If I were building a solar generator I planned to actually use, I would have put a breaker between charge controller and battery and between the solar panels and the charge controller. I prefer a breaker in those places because when I am doing work on the system I can easily turn off power from the panels and from the battery to the charge controller. This video was just introducing the basic concepts. I am going to do another video soon that will include all the breakers, battery switch, bus bars and fuses.
I always learn that Normally, first step is to plug positive red (inverter - >battery) and second step is to plug negative black (inverter battery) And you do not this, is it normal?
I am not an expert on this so don't take my answer as the right way. However, my understanding is that connecting the positive first rule carries over from the use of lead acid batteries in cars. I am not sure it matters in this case. I have done it both ways and I have not noticed a difference.
I have read that yes, whan you are adding wires, positive is done first, when taking off wires, negative comes off first. I will probably follow that as I put together my first system soon, just so I get that habit if I need to do anything with other battery types. I would not always be aware of the battery types, I figure, since I don't know my way around this stuff.
I feel confident it just appears that the heat gun is blowing directly on the cable because I was filming from above and its difficult to determine the height of each.
To be honest some of these videos are just unsafe! It’s just irresponsible to say for demonstrations purposes we’ll use this inverter which in reality is double the size a 100ah battery can power and we’ll use this fuse which is not correctly rated and theses cheap double wired cables which should be thrown in the bin! People out there in UA-cam land will buy and connect the same system based on what you have demonstrated and the end result will be a energy source, the first ancient energy source…FIRE!!!
Battery capacity is 1280 watts for 1 hour. The inverter size is 1280 watts minus 10% because inverters are around 90% efficient so that is 1152 watt so a 1000 watt inverter max! Power Queen battery has a max discharge of 100 amps so fuse size is 100x1.2= 120 amp remembering the fuse is to protect you wiring so minimum wire gauge id use is 4 AWG but again this is determined by how far the wire is from the battery to the inverter especially for 12volt! The longer the distance voltage drop comes into effect. Discharging the battery the way you did may have degraded or damaged the cells as the voltage instantly plunged from 13.3 to 11 volts. Putting your faith in a $10 BMS to protect your system and your house from over current disconnect is foolish essentially when the system hasn’t been designed properly! I don’t understand why you think the app SOC isn’t right when it states the battery is at 13.8 volts. Just my opinion!
Thanks for commenting. If I had a smaller inverter I would have certainly used it in the video. In the stress test I'm surprised that the BMS didn't stop before the inverter did. I would have thought that the battery would protect itself better. Regarding the SOC in the charge controller mobile app, I have a Victron smart shunt I have been using along with this charge controller for a while. The smart shunt seems to give a very accurate reading of the battery SOC. The SOC in the mobile app for the charge controller is often very different from the smart shunt so I don't rely on the charge controller mobile app for SOC. I believe the charge controller SOC just guesses based on battery voltage where as the Victron smart shunt actually measures amps going in an out of the battery.
@@proficientprepper I will say a person starting from scratch is much better off building a 24volt system rather than a 12 volt system. A smaller rated charge controller can handle twice the solar capacity using 24v over 12 volt because the higher voltage flows fewer amps. The difference in the cost of a smaller charge controller alone can save you a lot of money. Another thing is the 12 volt 100AH X2, THE 12V 200ah x1 and a 24volt 100ah x1 Lipo4 batteries each system will cost you about the same. There is some savings in using the single larger battery configurations as you have no cabling needed to configure the battery bank like you do with multiple smaller AH batteries. Also if you build a safe system again the 24v system will use smaller gauge wiring than the 12 volt system again offering substantial savings over the cost for the cables and lugs. And finally if buying a 24 volt battery you only need 1/2 the Amp Hr to have the same equivalent capacity as compared to a 12 volt system. Also the system needs to be sized to what you will ask of it, that includes all components including the inverter and battery bank sizing. If a person is trying to run say a refrigerator and/or a freezer during a power outage that 12volt 100 amp system is going to be limited in its longevity. You have to remember first the inverter will consume some power itself for its operation and then most less expensive inverters are only about 85% efficient in converting that 12 volt power to 110ac so again you do not have the full battery capacity to actually run the appliance available. One final suggestion is to add a 20-30 amp ac charger to the system then you also have the capability to recharge your battery bank from either grid power or a generator in the event of inclement weather which eliminates solar charging for multiple days. Worse thing in the world is for a beginner to build a system and then find out it will not fill his needs and then have to rebuy the correct components which end up in him spending more money than if he had built an ample system right the first go round!
Thanks for the comments. I should have been more clear in the video that my intention was not to build an actual system. I was intending to help beginners understand the different components involved and what function they performed. I am currently starting to order and build out a 24V system and I will be doing a video on that.
@@proficientprepper there is one thing I agree with is your recommendation to just buy a power station like the bluetti, eco-flow or even a jackery if you don't know what your doing!
Please leave a comment and let me know if you found this helpful. Also, please me know if you have any questions or feedback.
It's nice that you have electricity to use during this build but imagine not having it really out in the bush 😂 it's guess and go or rotten food off grid sometimes you have to cut corners to maintain living in certain circumstances with food storage vs safety if you know what I mean it's real survival not glamping in the RV but that's how I like it real living or dying in the bush with kids.
Your simple instructions help for my reality not being an electrician.
Very Helpful for a beginner. I am an Electrical Engineering Technician. Recently retired after 38 years of bliss (Sarcasm...LOL). The parallel wires that came pre crimped from the factory for the inverter. I would say are ok to use. However for long term use. I would recommend a larger gauge wire in one run and scrap the parallel stuff. One thing I thought I would mention . Over current protection, be it a fuse or breaker. Is there to protect the wiring (As this is what would catch fire) and not the components of the system. I would also suggest that ferrels be used on the stripped wire when connecting to a device that uses cage clamp or screw clamp at the point of termination. If it is a screw on a bus bar or something (possibly a stud) a ring terminal is a great option. Your presentation is great! I just thaought I would throw a couple of things out there.
I appreciate your feedback and tips. This video was one of my first ones. I have learned more since and in my 24v system build video, I believe I properly fused the system as well as used all ferrule connections where needed.
I wish I had your knowledge 😂 structural is helpful but electrical is more these days especially off grid , easy to build harder to wire .
As a complete newbie, this is the most I've ever understood someone explaining electrical. I'm moving into a skoolie full-time and would love more videos like this!
I enjoyed this video. It great when you find someone willing to take there time explaining as much as possible. After watching many videos I feel that I could make a power system. Thank you.
Great video. I've not yet taken the first step on my PV journey, but this video makes me feel better about it.
Thank you for doing this
I may have missed it but if I didn't, I would emphasize that you must connect the battery to the solar charge controller before you connect the solar panels to it. This is critical to prevent damaging the charge controller. Also, before connecting the solar panels, make sure you have the solar charger set for the proper type of battery you are using. This is also a critical setting.
(I see you addressed these issues later down in the comment replies, but feel it is still good to have it mentioned here in a comment...rather than deeper in replies.)
Nice simple review...easy for anyone to follow and begin making their solar generating system. Thanks.
Thanks for bring that up to help everyone out.
Excellent presentation, explanation and demonstration.
It's the first time I truly understand how to set-up a basic solar system for beginners after looking at so many others, you are a true teacher and the best thing about you is that, you are a very humble person given the comments made by others, where you accept the fact that you probably made some little mistakes and is wise enough to take others advice and further develop yourself, and that's very admirable.
Continue doing your videos my friend and all the best in your research for more knowledge to which you can pass it on to others.
Blessing to you and your family.
I appreciate your kind words. Thank you!
I recently bought the same charge controller, I noticed in your video when you were showing the app that it appears that it was still in led acid mode, be sure to go into the parameter settings tab at the bottom and change it to lithium mode, or user mode with the correct settings for the battery otherwise it will not charge the battery properly. Other than that and a few other small things (I realize this was not a permanent setup and was just for demonstration) great job on the video!
Thanks for catching that. I don't use this 12v system day to day anymore since I built my 24v system. I do crank up this 12v system from time to time. I will check that setting when I bring this 12v system up again.
Good video. I had a similar setup less the inverter. You can get inline MC4 fuses. I would suggest putting one between the solar panels an the charge controller. 👍
I should probably get an inline fuse. I have read varying opinions. I have read that if you wire your panels in series, as I have, you don't need an inline fuse. Then I read on Renogy's site that they suggest a fuse there, so I should get one.
@@proficientprepper In series you only need one inline fuse. In parallel you need one for each panel.
I install a fuse or other circuit-breaker downstream of any electric source:
* battery
* alternator/generator
* photovoltaic.
The fuse/breaker protects the cable/wire.
This is the best video I have seen on how to set up a system like this. Thank you very much. I live in a bus off grid in Alaska. I had electricity from a neighbor and a boyfriend for a few years and became complacent. This helped me a lot.
Glad it was helpful! You are welcome.
Nice a real woman 😂 that's honest I hear you .
This was a very informative video we appreciate the work you put into it.🇯🇲
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing.
You are using a Power Queen. I approve :)
Thanks! very helpful. And subscribed.
9:20 for those who came for the pre-charging the capacitor.
Thanks for the video
Really great and helpful
Your welcome!
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Really good videos you have, thanks! I am older and have some back and knee problems, and will be using mini 12v batteries and I will have at least one system with the Renogy flexible solar panels, which are VERY light! I do have folding portable panels and a couple of rigid panels, but am waiting for the Renogy 175 watt lightweight panels to have a sale, lol. I will put them on a platform cart or a dolly to wheel outside, as I do not have a secure yard.
Pure copper wire is the gold standard. In my builds, I use pure copper. A little more costly. However, copper is a better choice.
Thanks for sharing! Hopefully Black Friday will have some good deals on those Renogy flexible panels.
When connecting an inverter to a battery, you should always follow this order:
Connect the positive (+) wire first. This is a crucial safety measure. By connecting the positive side first, you significantly reduce the risk of an accidental short circuit if your negative wrench or cable were to touch a grounded part of your system while connecting.
Connect the negative (-) wire second. Once the positive side is secured, you can safely connect the negative terminal.
Important Reminders:
Turn off the inverter: Ensure the inverter is switched off before making any connections.
Wear protective gear: Gloves and safety glasses are recommended.
Check polarity: Double-check the correct polarity of your inverter terminals (usually red for positive, black for negative).
Thanks for sharing those important safety tips!!
What gauge wire did you use between the fuse and the battery. If the inverter is a 2000w. Should it be a 2 gauge wire.
Yes, that wire was 2 gauge. According to windy nations website, that wire is rated up to 205 amps.
Thankyou for this video, it is very informative and u r a good teacher. Can I ask: can I set up 2, 12v batteries in series and then connect to a 24v 3000w/6000w peak inverter with an 100a mppt controller?. Thankyou.
Thanks for commenting. Just going off what you mentioned, yes. That should work. I would check the recommended charge current for the batteries. A lot of them recommend 20amps to preserve the long life of the batteries. A 100amp mppt controller would push 50amps into each battery. Which should be fine. But your batteries might not last as long. Just check the recommended charge current for those batteries. Its ok to go over a little, you just don't want to push 100amps into a battery that recommends 20amps. Even though that may be within the battery specifications.
I wanted to know about linking a solar and petrol generator to a battery bank, so was rather confused by this title. A more accurate title would be 'Beginner's Solar PV battery charging system with AC inverter'. Informative video though, just not what I was looking for!
Great channel and steady camera work thank you, I am looking to make a DIY solar generator that will run a small electric 1500 watt heater for my home made teardrop camper I built. I have a Honda generator but tired of the noise, the kit must be able to run thru the night with out issues and recharge during the day what would you suggest. Subscribed -
A 1500 watt heater may be too much for a 2000 watt inverter. It could run the heater, but continuous use of 1500 watts with a 2000 watt inverter may be too much. Especially if you have other loads. My understanding is that you should shoot for about half or less of an inverters rated capacity for continuous use. So a 3000 watt inverter or greater would most likely be a better choice. When you are running over a 2000 watt inverter, your wires will need to be rather large with a 12v system. So you want to look at least a 24v system (or 48v) to keep the wire sizes and costs down. Also, you need quite a bit of battery storage to be able to run a 1500 watt heater all night. I'm not sure how often the heater will need to run to keep the temperature comfortable. When I test systems, heaters are the best way to drain the battery quickly. You may be able to get by with 2kwh of battery storage. But I would say 4kwh would be better. If you planned to use solar the next day to charge, then you would need to have enough solar panels to charge back within one day. To charge back, you would need to be parked while charging with solar or grid power. You could charge back some with roof top panels while driving, but most likely it will not get back to 100% SOC. There are a lot of variables when trying to create a DIY system like this. I hope the information above helped.
@@proficientprepper Yes it did and thank you for helping me
I love this
You will also need terminal crimpers for the wire terminals.
I saw that note about matching the equipment.
For a real system be sure to match the current levels as well as the voltage.
When setting up a power station it is a good idea to do some math before hooking up the wires.
Current = watts / volts.
166.66 amps = 2,000 watts / 12 volts.
On a 2,000 watt inverter you need a battery which can deliver at least 200 amps.
The battery should say it has a 200 amp BMS.
This example you are using a 100 Amp hour battery. The 100 amp hour battery has a 100 Amp BMS.
The maximum watts for this battery is about 1,200 watts.
In actual practice the voltage for a system which is higher than 2,000 watts should have at least 24 volts. By increasing the volts the wire diameter is smaller. Refer to a wire size chart to determine the minimum wire size needed.
Also by increasing the volts the amount of current needed is less.
Thanks for providing that information.
Also, if i want to add more than 400w solar do i have to have a controller that is higher than 24v? Thankyou for any response.
Thanks for commenting. No, you can add more solar. The amount of solar you can have is totally up to the solar charge controller. The one in this video allows up to 600watts for a 12v system. Here are the max wattage allowed by battery voltage for the charge controller in the video - 600W/12V; 1200W/24V; 1800W/36V; 2400W/48V. But you can get different solar charge controllers that will allow more wattage for 12v systems. One of the most important things to consider for solar charge controllers is that they accept a minimum and maximum voltage. The charge controller in the video lists the maximum voltage of 150v. If you go to 150v or over you will most likely burn up the controller. I can't find the minimum voltage, but if its under the minimum, it just won't charge.
Your fuse needs to be at the POS post of the battery First... before the wire run.. Same as from the panels to Controller needs a breaker or fuse and from Controller to battery... If your gonna show this stuff then it's up to YOU to explain and Push the Safety.
I have learned that since. I do plan to show that going forward.
What's the best way to fast charge the battery from a propane generator? Seems like all of the batteries say they take 5 hours to charge, but most of the commercial "solar generators" can charge a 2000 watt power station in about an hour.
It depends on the amperage the battery charger. A 100ah 12v LiFePO4 battery can be charged zero to full in about 5 hours as they state. But that is using a 20amp battery charger. If you use a 40amp battery charger, it should theoretically charge in about 2.5 hours. So to charge one of these 100ah 12v batteries in about an hour, you would need about a 60 amp charger. Typically these 100ah batteries can be charged up to the BMS limit of 100amps, but to help the battery last longer they recommend only charging at a max of 40 amps. Of course this all could be different from battery to battery.
wouldnt it be better to get a 1000w inverter as the max through put of a 12.8v / 100ah battery is like 12000w
Yes it would. I should have made it more clear that this video was not for building an actual system. I was just trying to help beginners understand the different components and how they worked together using the equipment I had available at the time. In the near future I will be doing a video on my actual 12v system and then after that I will start building out a 24V system.
Good math on that 😊
E/I/R
Electrical formula voltage/ current/resistance
Earth science and physics are paying off
Engineering is helpful too.
Wire size for amps would be nice
I'm curious 🤔 what's the amps on this build?
What kind of fuses do you require for this or breaker switches?
How hot are your wires getting on your overload?
I'm not seeing any fuse box protection for this
You need to check the power vs output consumption of the tools and other power consuming devices so you don't overload.
You might need a few inverters to push the kind of power you are asking of this system for individual power options and operations.
Add fans and a tool box with rollers and place an inverter or two on each wall with it's own controller box and batteries, panels and stand system
This video was an introduction to the basic concepts. I will be doing another video where I go into much greater detail and will include breakers, fuses, etc.
Thanks for the informative video! Suppose you set up something similar, but minus the battery, would that inverter be able to operate directly with an AC load during daytime to draw power from the panel? Is it something that depends on the inverter itself? Thanks in advance.
I do not believe that would work and I would not recommend trying it. The solar charge controller can be configured for different types of batteries. It uses the voltage of the battery and different algorithms to charge the batteries based on which type battery is configured. Also, I know that when connecting a solar charge controller, you should hook it to the battery first before hooking it to live PV input. It could damage the charge controller if you don't connect it in that order.
@@proficientprepper Thanks for replying! I tend to believe there are various inverters out there that can work without the presence of batteries, i was just wondering about this specific one.
how can you make this system charge pu plugging into wall??
To charge the battery by plugging into the wall you just need a LiFePO4 battery charger, if using a LiFePO4 battery. I use this one for 12v LiFePO4 batteries - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082LZNDRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1
I forgot to mention in my opinion for a 12V system with a 2000-watt inverter, a 150W, 5-ohm resistor would be a suitable choice.
Regards
Thanks for sharing.
Can i ask why you’re running such a high inverter with that battery ? I thought the rule was for every 100ah its a 1000 watt inverter? I’m asking as i am learning and now I’m getting different results or answers
Well, you are almost correct. But first, I did use too large of an inverter for this video. My intention was just to use what I had to demonstrate the different components involved in a diy system. But I have introduced some confusion by not choosing the correct sized components for the demonstration. I did do another video titled "DIY Solar Generator Setup Complete Review - Beginner Friendly -12v" where I built a correctly sized complete 12v system using two batteries in parallel. Now, to get back to what you mentioned "I thought the rule was for every 100ah it's a 1000 watt inverter?". The rule of thumb you are referring to is for every 100amp BMS (Battery Management System) of the battery or battery bank, it's a 1000 watt inverter. Not 100ah (amp hour) which refers to how much storage the battery has. Amp hours have nothing to do with inverter size. The power queen battery I used in this video has a 100 amp BMS which means it can be charged/discharged at a maximum of 100 amps. Using the battery nominal voltage of 12.8, you could technically use an inverter up to 1280 watts (100 amp BMS x 12.8 volts) on this battery. But you don't want to max out your battery like this very often, it will reduce the life of the battery if you maxed it out all the time. I hope this helped!
08:22
Ten Watt, five Ohm resistor.
Thanks for pointing that out! I failed to mention it.
How would you set this up to be able to plug it into a wall to charge it instead of solar
Here is a link to the 12v charger I bought to charge 12v batteries. It has worked fine for me - amzn.to/42iKPqj
Hi, I have a well water pump that needs 12,000 watts to run. I have two solar batteries at 6,000 watts each. Is it possible to combine 2 solar batteries of 6,000 each to make 12,000 watts to run my well water pump? If yes, what is the setup to make this possible?
I'm currently using a 13,000 watts gas generator to run my water pump but gas prices too high. I want to use portable solar power station batteries instead.
It looks like you will need a sizable system to handle that water pump. I have not worked with anything that size yet and I don't feel comfortable advising you for this. But I'm thinking you are going to be looking at something like this EG4 system. See link below. You will most likely not require that many batteries though. You also have to consider the inverter(s). This system doesn't include solar panels either. The people at signature solar (link below) or current connected (www.currentconnected.com/) can help you size an appropriate system. signaturesolar.com/off-grid-eg4-system-13kw-120-240v-output-48vdc-30-72kwh-lithium-battery-bank-2-x-eg4-6500ex/
Maybe wrong but the wires look too thin for a 2000 watt 12 volt system. If it's 2/0 guage guess it's ok.
Thanks for commenting. I intended this video to just be a introduction of the different components involved and not an actual system you would use. I learned from the comments of this video that it is best to always use the correct sized components even when just demonstrating something. For beginners, it may create confusion. I did add a comment in the description that this video did not use correctly sized components and I believe I mentioned that in the video.
Do you have link for watt resistor when you plug red + ? If battery is 300 ah what is value resistor need?
This is the link to the resistor amzn.to/3JQD3eI . It should still work with a 300ah battery. The battery I used in the video was a 100ah battery. If you have a 300ah battery of the same voltage, the only difference is the amount of storage.
@@proficientprepper thanks and if battery is 410 ah same resistor ?
Yes, the same resistor should work on a battery with 410ah of the same voltage. If you had a 24V or 48V system, I am not sure if this resistor would work. I would have to look into that.
Yes sistema👍☀ ⚡🔌🔋💡
Why didn't you install a fuse between charge controller and battery?
If I were building a solar generator I planned to actually use, I would have put a breaker between charge controller and battery and between the solar panels and the charge controller. I prefer a breaker in those places because when I am doing work on the system I can easily turn off power from the panels and from the battery to the charge controller. This video was just introducing the basic concepts. I am going to do another video soon that will include all the breakers, battery switch, bus bars and fuses.
Thank u very much.
I always learn that Normally, first step is to plug positive red (inverter - >battery) and second step is to plug negative black (inverter battery)
And you do not this, is it normal?
I am not an expert on this so don't take my answer as the right way. However, my understanding is that connecting the positive first rule carries over from the use of lead acid batteries in cars. I am not sure it matters in this case. I have done it both ways and I have not noticed a difference.
I have read that yes, whan you are adding wires, positive is done first, when taking off wires, negative comes off first. I will probably follow that as I put together my first system soon, just so I get that habit if I need to do anything with other battery types. I would not always be aware of the battery types, I figure, since I don't know my way around this stuff.
a 300.50 ? watt panel
I did show a foldable 350 watt panel in the video. Is that what you are referring to?
My comment is you operate in an unsafe way by turning on the heat gun and pointing it toward the neutral wire while the gun is running.
I feel confident it just appears that the heat gun is blowing directly on the cable because I was filming from above and its difficult to determine the height of each.
To be honest some of these videos are just unsafe! It’s just irresponsible to say for demonstrations purposes we’ll use this inverter which in reality is double the size a 100ah battery can power and we’ll use this fuse which is not correctly rated and theses cheap double wired cables which should be thrown in the bin! People out there in UA-cam land will buy and connect the same system based on what you have demonstrated and the end result will be a energy source, the first ancient energy source…FIRE!!!
Battery capacity is 1280 watts for 1 hour. The inverter size is 1280 watts minus 10% because inverters are around 90% efficient so that is 1152 watt so a 1000 watt inverter max! Power Queen battery has a max discharge of 100 amps so fuse size is 100x1.2= 120 amp remembering the fuse is to protect you wiring so minimum wire gauge id use is 4 AWG but again this is determined by how far the wire is from the battery to the inverter especially for 12volt! The longer the distance voltage drop comes into effect. Discharging the battery the way you did may have degraded or damaged the cells as the voltage instantly plunged from 13.3 to 11 volts. Putting your faith in a $10 BMS to protect your system and your house from over current disconnect is foolish essentially when the system hasn’t been designed properly! I don’t understand why you think the app SOC isn’t right when it states the battery is at 13.8 volts. Just my opinion!
Thanks for commenting. If I had a smaller inverter I would have certainly used it in the video. In the stress test I'm surprised that the BMS didn't stop before the inverter did. I would have thought that the battery would protect itself better. Regarding the SOC in the charge controller mobile app, I have a Victron smart shunt I have been using along with this charge controller for a while. The smart shunt seems to give a very accurate reading of the battery SOC. The SOC in the mobile app for the charge controller is often very different from the smart shunt so I don't rely on the charge controller mobile app for SOC. I believe the charge controller SOC just guesses based on battery voltage where as the Victron smart shunt actually measures amps going in an out of the battery.
@@proficientprepper I will say a person starting from scratch is much better off building a 24volt system rather than a 12 volt system.
A smaller rated charge controller can handle twice the solar capacity using 24v over 12 volt because the higher voltage flows fewer amps.
The difference in the cost of a smaller charge controller alone can save you a lot of money.
Another thing is the 12 volt 100AH X2, THE 12V 200ah x1 and a 24volt 100ah x1 Lipo4 batteries each system will cost you about the same.
There is some savings in using the single larger battery configurations as you have no cabling needed to configure the battery bank like you do with multiple smaller AH batteries.
Also if you build a safe system again the 24v system will use smaller gauge wiring than the 12 volt system again offering substantial savings over the cost for the cables and lugs.
And finally if buying a 24 volt battery you only need 1/2 the Amp Hr to have the same equivalent capacity as compared to a 12 volt system.
Also the system needs to be sized to what you will ask of it, that includes all components including the inverter and battery bank sizing.
If a person is trying to run say a refrigerator and/or a freezer during a power outage that 12volt 100 amp system is going to be limited in its longevity.
You have to remember first the inverter will consume some power itself for its operation and then most less expensive inverters are only about 85% efficient in converting that 12 volt power to 110ac so again you do not have the full battery capacity to actually run the appliance available.
One final suggestion is to add a 20-30 amp ac charger to the system then you also have the capability to recharge your battery bank from either grid power or a generator in the event of inclement weather which eliminates solar charging for multiple days.
Worse thing in the world is for a beginner to build a system and then find out it will not fill his needs and then have to rebuy the correct components which end up in him spending more money than if he had built an ample system right the first go round!
Thanks for the comments. I should have been more clear in the video that my intention was not to build an actual system. I was intending to help beginners understand the different components involved and what function they performed. I am currently starting to order and build out a 24V system and I will be doing a video on that.
@@proficientprepper there is one thing I agree with is your recommendation to just buy a power station like the bluetti, eco-flow or even a jackery if you don't know what your doing!