BMW EWS II security bypass on 1995 M3 by froggy
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- I show how to bypass the EWS II security system on a 1995 BMW M3. I did this because the EWS II failed and it would have been very expensive to have a BMW dealer fix the problem. $500 to $2000. dollars US depending on the dealer. This was a no crank problem started as intermittant and went to permanent. The system matches a code on a chip in the key to a code in the DME (engine control unit). by froggy
Here are some still photos of the EWS II
i125.photobucke...
i125.photobucke...
i125.photobucke...
Dear 1947froggy, I just want to say you are my hero!, this worked perfectly on my 97' BMW 3.18is. The video can be shorted to 30 seconds where you explain which cables needs to be cut & combined. It took me 3 minutes to fix a 6 month problem. Thank You!
Froggy, you are a life saver! The transponder chip fell out of my only key when the BMW logo popped out, and I couldn't find it. My e36 325i convertible is also production date 7/1995, so I looked at the DME and sure enough, it's a silver label Bosch 413 just like yours. I jumped the green and black wires on the EWS II like you did and voila! I don't have to pay a penny to the stealership for a new transponder key, and now my car starts up like a champ! Also, I can get new keys cut from Ace Hardware or Home Despot and they will work too because the EWS II is totally bypassed! Please keep posting videos when you do work on your M3 so people like me can save a ton of money and headache! Thanks again!
+K Bear So glad this helped & thanks for the feedback. I hope other people who use my videos to get their car running and/or save money will post back, as you did.
:)
did this really work for you? i'm in the same predicament where i lost the chip out of my key and couldn't find it, and currently waiting on a new fuel pump before I can try and start it again new with the wire jumped.
@@wettsoggynoodles Yes, when I did have that 325i years ago I jumped those wires and was able to bypass the EWS II, energize the fuel pump, and start the car without the chip. That was years ago and I no longer have the car, but as long as your E36 matches what froggy said then it should work.
Make sure to follow up let us know here in the comments how it went for you after you try it.
1997 328i - Works!!
I missed work today because of this. But thanks to you I'll be there tomorrow. Can't thank you enough!
hi Brian that's great I'm so glad my video helped you
Thank you sir! You are a gentleman, a scholar, and a fine judge of liquor.
Thanks for the kind words, I do sometimes "over explain" stuff, but my viewers include folks that are really new to auto repair up to technicians that do it for a living, so I am always balancing being brief with verbose. And I do like to throw in little tidbits that may be slightly off topic.
Cheers!
froggy yes I have a BMW I8 when I tried to start it it won't start but the alarm is going off when I say when I try to start it it won't turn over or make any kind of noise just alarm go off if anybody have any ideas let me know please thank you
You didn't have bypassed the EWS2. I try to explain why this "trick" does the job on your car. When you turn your key, the EWS2 check if you have a good key (password check). If the check is successful it switches a relay inside of the EWS2 unit. This relay simply connects the two wires you have connected manually together. These two wires are only for the starter. BUT, the EWS2 does more. It sends a coded signal to your ECU on another wire that the ECU should allow the following start. So, whats happend in your car, is simply that the relay inside the EWS2 has failed. This means, that you just have bridged the relay, and forced the starter to turn, but you cannot prevent the EWS to send signals to the DME and check if the DME and EWS2 are aligned. If the start was successful your EWS2 sends a new "password" to your key for the next start via the ring antenna and only this password will "unlock" the EWS2 for the next start after the ignition was shut down for 10 seconds at last. I bet, if you remove the chip of your key, the car won't start. The car will crank, because you connected the to starter wires together, but it will not start. You can not disable the EWS2 with cutting and connecting wires. If you will fix the failed relay inside of your EWS2 and reconnect the two wires back to the ESW2 your car and start immobilizer will work as designed.
You are probably correct, this "tricks" the ews2. I don't have the time/tools/parts to fix it as you describe. Mine works.
Thanks for the thoughtful comment.
:)
Which relay is it?? You sound like a bmw mechanic!! We DIYers are doing this ourselves....with no help. And we sure in the hell are not coming to your stealership!!! Because honestly that all what these relays and modules are about!!! They go bad so people can come to the service department and you the advisor tell us its a head gasket blown....overly charge us.....change the relays or module....and the car works fine... While we pay thousands... Hell no!!! Thanks froggy
Mr3, THANKS for a very clear explanation: this is the ONLY way one can do repairs,by KNOWING; thanks
thanks for the thoughtful insight and time to type all that. That is great insight so we others can innerstand the system and what's happening.. people who are thinkers will use this to investigate the bigger picture and see it.
thanks
The ews bypass is used when you have diagnosed that the ews circuit board is broken. ALL other components of the starting system including the chip in the key and the antenna around the key, must still function. All I did was bypass the ews circuit board & it started & ran as new.
Just wanted to clarify something. Your wiring modification jumps the starter relay which is located inside the ews module. This however does not disable the EWS system. if you tried to start the car with a chipless key it would crank but not start because the ews still inhibits spark/fuel. Similarly if a different component of the EWS was to fail this bypass would not fix the problem.
This is right. My e36 1996 can crank with no start
Can any body help me to start?
Good bypass, for others that cant do all that. You can get a DME, key w/ tumbler, and EWS from a downer car (bout $250 for set / ebay). Install ignition (key), EWS module, and DME in about half hour. The car will never know the difference, no programming (plug and play).
Thanks for the bypass tip, sure I can use in the future.
I'll be giving this whole thing a whirl on my 95 325i Convertible tomorrow. I *think* I've narrowed my problems down to this EWS nonsense. Great tutorial, froggy. Thanks so much!
Please comment back how it goes.
:)
froggy Well. I did it. Key works every single time now. Come to find out though I had my main relay swapped with my Fuel Pump Relay. I still can't get the fuel pump to turn on. Only when I manually force it to turn on via 12V. Any suggestions? Anyone? =\
Well a relay is sort of like a switch, if you swap one for the other it doesn't matter, just a switch, so long as the "rating" is sufficient. Coul be a BAD relay, they were out.
ATCRyderX© did you find the answer to your problem got same issue after bypass ?
Gary Van Hoozer After bypass, I can crank all the time but still no fuel pump or start.
Great video. Bypass worked for me. Fired up first try. I didn't even bother messing with the key antenna. Mine is a 01/95. For those people saying it doesn't work for them, I believe is because this is for obd1 with ews2. The later models had a fuel and spark cut along with the ignition. Thanks froggy.
I have a e36 318is from I think January or February 1995 with OBD1 will it work ?
Do you know how to do it the the fuel and spark ? I have a 99 M3 auto and I need to do something similar but would like a more confident plan
death by sr20 do you know how to do it with the fuel and spark cut out ? I have a 99 M3 auto . Thanks in advance
FYI! I JUST BYPASSED 2000 X5 E53 4.4i EWS AND IT WORKED FOR THIS MODEL TOO ! THANKS A MILLION FROGGY!!!!
Wow, I am glad it worked, but also surprised. I only documented it to show how it works on my 1995 M3.
So that is great to know, thanks a LOT for the post.
:)
AFTER MANY HOURS OF BIMMER FORUMS AND UA-cam DIY VIDEO I QUICKLY LEARNED THAT YOUR REMEDY WAS THE MOST EFFECTIVE AND MORE LIKELY TO WORK (SO WHY NOT TRY IT IN SAME STEPS YOU TOOK BUT ON MY E53 4.4Ii X5). EVERYTHING ELSE JUST DIDN'T MAKE SENSE BASED ON EVENTS LEADING ME HERE. REPLACED BATTERY, REPLACED FUEL FILTER THEN NO CRANK NO START. SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN THE EWS AND DME ACTIVATED THE ANTI- THEFT SYSTEM NOT AUTHORIZING IGNITION TO START ENGINE. I WAS TOLD I NEEDED A STARTER OR BANG ON IT TO UNFREEZE IT BUT AFTER BY PASSING IGNITION STARTING X5 FROM STARTER I KNEW MY STARTER WAS FINE. SO THEN I DECIDED TO TRY "THE FROGGY METHOD" AND WITHOUT A HITCH THE X5 STARTED ON FIRST TRY. THANKS AGAIN FROGGY
AND THANK YOU UA-cam!
Glad that it helped & thanks for posting the comment.
:)
Cheers for showing the bypass. I used this mod on my 95 E38 750IL and I got the engine turning over, but no start.
It uses the same EWS II system, but the difference is the DMEs ( Engine ECUs) have a rolling code that comes from the EWS to enable the fuel and ignition circuit.
Therefore, without the EWS working - the DMEs won't wake up to RUN the engine.
What I have confirmed, is that the EWS is cactus. The BMW INPA software shows that it's not getting the signal from the keys either.
So how you fix it?
I have just done this to my 95 328 and it worked well. Considering I did the full replacement of ecu, ews just two years ago at the cost of $300 I was skeptical but sure enough...........it did it again. So thank you Froggy for your efforts and your posting.
Thanks for taking the time to post up your success!
:)
I've seen many videos about bypass. Most of them are extremely complicated and require more than basic skills with a solder iron. I will try this method on my car if and when I install remote start and start button. If it works it will save me a 100 hours of problems. Thank you very much for the video :)
+MrRoyalbeers Hope it helps, it fixed MY SPECIFIC problem 100%. Trouble is some people have a different issue and think THIS will fix it, not so much.
:)
Jumping those two wires takes ignition switch cranking voltage strait to the starter solenoid. It just bypasses the internal relay of the EWS2 module that closes the crank circuit when proper conditions are met. After the key, antenna ring, transmitter, EWS2 module, and DME all shake hands meeting starting requirement, the car will start. The DME also controls fuel injection and igniter packs. The rest of your EWS2 module must have been ok. 🤷🏻♂️
I have the same problem dude! I had to query so many different ways to see if anyone else had my problem. Lights are on, but no one is home!
I will be checking this out tomorrow, I am glad I will not having to be taking off the undersides of the drivers side dash, I read about the jumper issue but your video makes it pretty clear! THANK YOU!
Scott McNeal I will be away for about 10 days, but feel free to post questions & I'll catch up when I'm back. Good luck.
:)
Good info. On my 1995 this is NO clutch pedal switch. So this shows how each model year can be VERY different, which I have mentioned many times. Thanks for the comment.
:)
Hi Gene,
Thanks for checking back. I found a few of the emulators, it seems some (all?) need a diagnostic tool to program the emulator to the car. The difference, it seems, is my procedure does not require these emulators and does not need to be programmed to the car with a diagnostic tool.
Other than those points it seems they accomplish the same thing, get the darn car running!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this. This fixed our problem exactly. We just did a manual swap on a 96 e36. Worked perfect untill we drove it home, all lights on and no crank. Replaced the starter, changed nothing. Cut the same two wires and spliced them together and presto!
Great that this old video is still helping, have fun with the car!
:)
this is smashing Froggy. I wish I'd seen this before I got ripped off. I have exactly the same problem and they still cant fix it. bless you sir,!!!!!
Now I can get to work tomorrow morning!!
You the man Froggy!
Many Thanks
Glad to help.
:)
Greetings Froggy I followed this procedure on my 97 (10/96) 528i with an EWS 2 system, it was located in the same place yours was with a few differences, I to had the no crank problem and after splicing the two thickest wires on the EWS connector I finally got it to...crank! .....
just done an M50 engine conversion on my buds compact with ews2 and have come to the no start problem, will try this at the weekend and hopfully it works.
thnx for the simplicity of the vid :) this stuff gets overcomplicated very easy
+SuicidalSlider Good luck & post back how it goes.
:)
Correct, if I was not clear on this, sorry. I think I did say you still need the chip/key. It's a very "insidious" security system, for better or worse.
Thank you so much froggy!! I have the same problem with a 2001 525i. You gave me some great direction. Now I just have to figure out which wires will bypass my ews... Thanks again for the great video!!!!
Thanks for watching, be advised, there are changes from year to year, a copy of what I did on my 1995 may not work, just sayin.
Good luck.
froggy brother my car is 1995
fation ismaili should work
Hi Chris,
With the bypass I did I still have a key with a chip. Not sure why but that's what worked. Go figure.
It's common for some oil to be in the wells where the plugs are. Valve cover gasket kit includes new gaskets to fix that. Would not affect starting. You may have a bad solenoid/bad starter, but I can't be sure.
Back in the day one guy would turn the key and one would take a long tool and bang on the starter, be careful. You could short out the wires there.
Can you take a reader & get some codes?
Thanks, found this old video and helping me a lot on what wires to head for.
Hi, a pro mechanic fixed the issue on my car, 318is 97 Manual, this info may be useful to someone else here.
The no crank issue was located on the clutch pedal. The EWS does not affect the starter, it locks the engine only (at least on my model)
When you push it, the clutch pedal makes a bridge connection that allows your car starter to crank, if you have a no crank issue, you should check the clutch pedal connection first, a slack cable on this connection was the issue for me.
Cheers!
FYI, very important, there is also another wire to cut so that your DME is not looking for the signal, I would recommend doing both this procedure and the other ..
both together.
Thanks, for MY CAR this was all I needed to do.
:)
So which is the extra wire to cut? E39 528i cranks no start
Could we know please which wire to cut if the car now cranks, but is a no start after splicing the two thickest wires. I've read pin 4, which should be green, but mine is black :( Or if there is any other alternative.
As I understand it, and I don't claim to be "expert" in this, the bypass "allows" the use of the red label dme, but does not "require" it, I just kept the original dme & it worked.
As I worked thru mine, I did find a guy in CA (I believe) who had a web site & rebuilds the ews circuit board, but he only does certain ones (as they are different year to year). He could not do mine but maybe do yours, cheaper than new ones from dealer. Sorry I do not have contact info, but if you google enough you should find him.
Old school way was if the starter clicks but no spin, bang on the relay if you can reach it, it's on the starter. If that spins it you have a bad starter/relay. Always be looking at your elec. wire connections for short/fray/break.
:)
Continue, the fuel pump must be good, the starter must be good, the DME must be good. The bypass I showed does not fix all that other "stuff".
Glad it helped, fwiw I think the little circuit board just fails (or some tiny part on it fails) after xxx years/miles. It's too bad the manufacturers have to keep putting more and more complicated anti theft systems in, but the consumers & the governments demand it & it's tough nuts to the second/third/forth owner when it fails. Locked out of your own car now that sucks.
:)
The links in your description did expire. May you have backups or a way to locate those again? I'm running into the same issue.
For Jason, I'm glad it helped you.
:)
saya telah melihat vidio anda ini. saya tertarik, dan punya masalah yang sama seperti dlm vidio anda ini. mbl saya BMW 5210i. apa blh di jumper jg? gmn detailnya.....
I translated comment, but do not understand question. Sorry.
:)
Terima kasih. ?...
froggy hi froggy great video . Would you have an idea on how to do it with 99 M3 that I think has the fuel and spark cut off . This is really a pain in the ass
On my 95 ews killed the fuel pump and the starter, not sure if it also killed spark. Once I did my bypass it just fired up & ran. German anti theft laws required car makers to up the security in later years, so you may have an additional level of security to bypass. Post a comment if/when you crack it. Wish I had more.
:)
This video solved my no crank! Great information thank you.
My car is a 1996 ews2 318ti with a swapped m50 vanos with a red label 413 dme.
Excellent my friend, glad to help!
Thanks for the post. On mine 95 m3 ews2 there does not appear to be a rolling code. Once the bypass was in, it started & ran like a champ.
Having said that, there are clearly differences from year to year and model to model.
You really need to research what you are dealing with in each case & not just try the bypass and cross your fingers.
:)
I've got the same issue my key ring antenna is damaged vehicle will not start I did the bypass it cranks but I'm getting no fuel at injectors was there another wire cut at the DME
Thanks! Really saved a lot of my time and money. Do more videos like this, really appreciate this!!!!!!
Welcome.
:)
The problem was ONLY the ews circuit board was fried. The bypass takes it "out of the loop". Nothing else was wrong with the car, still running fine.
:)
Very clear and understandable video. I am mechanically inclined, but I have a 99 323is and I am going to investigate this scenario. I was lead to believe that I have a bad DME, but it could be a bad EWS I suppose. the car turns over but no start no fuel pump no power to DME. If it is the security module, I wonder if this will work on mine. I’ll try hopefully in a week and post. Also my son found a 96 318 in really good condition. Only the owner says it has “a bad security module” so that would be a win for that too. Thanks
Good luck, post on your progress, thanks!
hey, i have same symptoms as you. my issue on top of the crank no start is i think i accidentally opened my key and lost my chip in it without realizing because i checked mine just now and it's not there. did the bypass work for you?
not too clear which two wires you jumped/connected Froggy . I got the two you cut.
You need to test if you have voltage AT the starter when you twist the key.
Thanks FROGGYYY!!
I have a 95' 325i that has no crank issues. Ok, so I've done exactly what you did. I have not yet put evwrything back together (manifold, bc I thought it was starter), but after bridging the two wires it cranked after not doing that before. I'm reading about this stuff online and everyone is saying that bridging the two wires will indeed make it crank, but NOT turnover. But in your case, that is all you have done, correct? Just want to make sure, I'm hoping I'm having the exact problem you had
well i already bought a chiltons manual so i guess ill look at that. i hope its the filter. i dont want to mess with the fuel pump. the back seat comes off really easy so i guess ill start there. thanks for all your help. i can give you updates of my progress if youd like
Does it spin over or just give a weak try to spin over?
I don't know for sure. The ews system was changed VERY OFTEN on the e36. Sorry.
I watched your video. If the car is cranking which means "turning over" for, say, a few seconds, 4 or 5 seconds, then your EWS is NOT the problem. A broken EWS circuit board (which was my issue) makes the car 100% NO CRANK. Check your fuel pressure if yours IS cranking.
Yes, if it ran it's not security system, time to put a starter in. Keep me posted. Sorry no video on that.
:)
Well the filter is easy & not too expensive, I guess I'd do that first. I have not replaced a fuel pump on mine so no help there. I believe it's in the tank & some folks will pull the back seat & get access there, but you will need to find a diy fuel pump instruction for that or the factory service manual.
:)
Hmmm. The history of BMW EWS security is that they added stuff every year. In 1995 it killed fuel & starter. In later years it "could be" more was disabled. You need to see if power is getting to the coils. How did you diagnose "no spark" What specifically did you test?
Froggy. thanks for this great video man. i have a simple question. Do you need to plug the EWS back in for the car top start? I removed my ews and the car turns over but no start.
If it EVENTUALLY starts and runs, then IMO I don't think it's EWS. EWS does not "give in" after extended attempts at starting. Nonetheless, watch the video carefully, it shows how to disable EWS.
Thank you so very much. You are the greatest help Ive had in years. I want to know what causes this problem but I can live without knowing. Just amazing I could get it to run from the solenoid on starter but just couldn't get it to go with key been driving me crazy for about a year now thanks again so much..... priceless info...this was on a 01/95 325is
Put a fuel pressure gauge on and turn the key on, look up what the pressure should be.
Very informative If you still can't fix on your own, there are auto locksmiths that can fix these . MUCH cheaper than dealer. They have a tool to test the antenna and diagnose. I had E 46 issue with the key , the locksmith cut a new key and matched to my EWS.
+traxxas man Good point on locksmiths, I have a Lexus IS300 that goes thru keys like I change my sox. Found a local locksmith that makes me one for about $25 vs. $100+ at a dealer. However, I know they do not get involved with ews2 circuit boards.
:)
Check the spark at each one of the 6 coils, one at a time. They all need good spark to fire it up. How good/old are each of the injectors?
Not silly, yes that is all I did. Good luck. Something on the ews circuit board goes bad & this will bypass it.
:)
Do you know anything about EWS 3.3? Will I be able to cut and fuse the wires together like you did in the video?
The key is chipped but we are using a plastic wallet key to start the car which h worked for the past few years. The battery was disconnected and that is where all the problems have originated from.
A simple battery disconnect should not cause problems so far as I know. Unless that causes some kind of "reset" of the security system that was previously "bypassed" somehow. Any way to get the correct chipped key or is it lost?
Andrew, did you confirm that the fuel pressure is within the proper spec before you crank?
From what I see it's NOT ews, a bad ews would not let you spin it over.
Could be the case, these are quite different year to year, mine I did not need to touch the DME (1995) but later years got more complex. Worth a try if you can get the parts. I don't know if there is a SEPARATE chip for ews in your DME.
What year is your car and what month was it built? It seems that BMW changed this system almost every year.
My solution is for 1995 M3 only.
Omg extremely helpful vid thanks m8
Guys & gals, I don't have specific bypass procedure for every year & every model of BMW. There are changes. This is for 1995 m3 and "MAY" work on some others.
Hello froggy. After you jump the wires together from the EWS do you plug the yellow connector back in? Never saw that in the vid. Also thanks in advance
I have the saem question.. does he connect the ews back? would this work if ews is damaged?
Yes you plug the connector back in, and depends on what the damage is to the ews.
:)
1998 BMW 328i wont turn over with the key but if I shouldn't the starter it will run
Did u start it with the ews module out?
Where did you get the i formation on location the schematics you showed where the ews is and goes to
Did you plug the ews back in after the wires were jumped?
Hi Froogy l have recently recently purchased a RHD 96 E36. My car is automatic and l wondered why it was able to be started in gear instead of only in park or neutral, after taking out the glovebox l noticed the two heavy wires you refer to had been disconnected from the ECU (somebody has discarded the device) (gone) and joined these two wires together. The plug is just hanging there now and doing nothing. Initially I assumed the starting fault was caused by a faulty inhibiter switch on the gear change, after watching your video and reading other comments. I am reluctant to replace the inhibitor switch if that's not at fault and I've gone to all the effort and expense to renew it to then find out it's not the problem
If anybody can offer me any assistance and advice l would appreciate it very much.R.
Kind regards from New Zealand.
Not at all sure on that, immobilizer is for security/stolen car, nothing to do with starting in gear that I know. Good luck.
froggy, thanks for the response. I've read that in the event the air bags are deployed there is a wire that connects to the battery not sure where it goes but goes bad. what happens is car won't start all doors unlock and 4way flashers come on. one very strange thing that also happens to me is the 4way flashers came on when I reconnected battery.
+Anthony Anderson I think that you may want to proceed with a connection between the airbag & the issues. Please post some comments as you go, it will make the video & the subsequent comments more useful to others. THANKS!
:)
I have a 1995 525i E34. My car won't start/crank. I have the same EWS 2 version but, I noticed there are two black wires on the yellow connector that about the same size and I'm not sure which one to cut. I'm trying to see the close up angle on the connector in your video but, it's too difficult to tell. Can you let me know the location of the black wire? Thanks!
Will this work on e36 m43 engine
On my 95 ews killed the starter AND the fuel so bump start was a no go. I am not sure if it'll fix your 96 since it runs once you bump start it. Sounds more like you have a plain starter issue, good luck.
:)
We cut the two wires and connected the EWS. Now the starter is cranking but still no spark and no fuel.
I hope this method will cure our 96 323. The car wont crank but will bump start so fingers crossed.
This is misleading. You've only partially bypassed the EWSII security system. You jumped the wires for the starter. So you bypassed only the starter security system. However, you are still using original key and ring antenna. Antenna sends a code to EWSII, this sends a signal to DME which turns your fuel system on.
A full bypass is bypassing the starter AND the fuel system.
+Sidabra24.com You are so correct, glad someone wrote it up, Yes it turns the fuel and ingnition on
How would I bypass the fuel pump too?
Lol but still no start, I feel like I made progress but I may be missing ONE LITTLE thing to make it fully start. Any input would greatly be appreciated for there are ALOT of people with e39s who are in the same predicament. Thanks in advance and thanks for getting me this far!
There was a comment I deleted by accident, bad click, sorry. It was "why do you need a jumper wire" and why do you need this if they sell an "emulator" to do the same thing?
For the first question, in the video I say "you jumper them together" ie "connect them together, I did not say use a jumper wire. watch 13:25 again & look at the video.
For the second question I am unaware of an ews2 "emulator" please post a link to this. The other part of the answer would be, I suppose, this is FREE.
I would test the fuel pump with a fuel PRESSURE GAUGE at the engine, the FP may make a noise and / or run but might be too weak to provide the pressure needed to fire the engine.
:)
Not sure what more I can do, the vid describes all that I did to remove EWS2 from the security system.
I have a 2004 BMW 525i Touring...... It some time starts and some time do not. I suspect the key is not talking to the receiver assembly. To get one new key here (Norway) costs 550 USD :( and then also I am not sure whether it will fix the problem and work. Any possibility to bypass all these "great" features and at start my car and keep going.... The car sometime do not start (After few days it will start and work smoothly like nothing happened. I think the transponder on the key does not talk to the receiver on the steering assembly (When the car do not start, Dashboard do not start or light up - No Crank - No Start - Power seat adjustment, power windows, steering level adjustment, central locking etc all work - Battery Good). Private mechanic could not find the problem after troubleshooting for 5 hrs (120 USD $/per hour). They say they do not get any error code and they are not able to find the problem. BMW say they cannot assure to find the problem and it could take 1 hr or even 20 hr ( x 150 USD $/per hour) to troubleshoot and identify the problem, and also they do not commit they can identify. Repair cost will be extra. on top of this. I am in a dead end situation. Any help is very much appreciated. jcbjse@gmail.com
Unfortunately the start "security" systems change a bit year to year. So what worked on mine might not on yours. Try to find an INDEPENDENT BMW mechanic with GOOD REFERENCES and let him try. That's crazy money for a key, try amazon/ebay? Has to be exact key for your car/ignition system I had a spare key for one of my Vettes & no wear on it, so when my "main" key went bad, just switched. Always have 2 working keys any car. Thanks!
@@1947froggy Thank you very much. I will try to find a independent mechanic.
I have never heard of a connection between ews and the hazard lights, but could be possible?
I am thinking starter also.
Could you push start it to see if it runs once it starts (careful) You would need a couple of buddies & a hill.
:)
Not really, only the model year I did. They changed it a LOT year to year.
I believe the internal starter relay in EWSII module has failed, that's why you couldn't start the car. You can take the EWSII apart and replace the internal relay if you have soldering skills.
+Sidabra24.com Show us how it's done.
:)
+froggy Open your EWSII module, remove the large SIEMENS relay:
goo.gl/GWj2nv
Get a replacement. I believe it is SIEMENS V23076-A3001-C132. It can also be TYCO brand. It costs like 15-20 USD. With a little bit of patience you can desolder and remove the old relay, but yo make sure I'd test the relay first. And then install and solder in the new one.
This DIY is not for the faint-hearted, so you may as well look for a professional to do it.
Thanks for adding info to the EWSII issue!
:)
+froggy We actually were discussing about your video on Bimmerforums.com, so you can go in check to see how we tackled this:
www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2271074
+Sidabra24.com I will visit, that forum is a great resource.
:)
You have changed a few things that make the situation different from my example on a stock 1995. If you hear a loud click, that sounds like power is going to the starter. When mine was dead I could not get any power to starter, so this sounds different. Did you try a jump start or different battery, a loud click with no crank usually means a weak battery.
:)
Greetings Froggy I followed this procedure on my 97 (10/96) 528i with an EWS 2 system, it was located in the same place yours was with a few differences, I to had the no crank problem and after splicing the two thickest wires on the EWS connector I finally got it to...crank! Lol but still no start, I feel like I made progress but I may be missing ONE LITTLE thing to make it fully start. Any input would greatly be appreciated for there are ALOT of people with e39s who are in the same predicament
hello how u doing ... i have a bmw 1995 325i with a 110k every thing was fine till few days ago the gauges on the cluster is not working the fuel an the temperature the speedometer an the rpm not working but the car run an drive fine the lig the signals is working....an another thing happend that windows stop working but if i take out the cable of the battery for a minute an but it back everything start working fine ... idk if u have any idea about this problem
i didnt put a pressure gauge but i did test the fuel injectors and the hose that its connected to and no gas goes through the injectors and no gas goes through the hose. so im guessing its a fuel pump or fuel filter problem. what now
hello did you change the ring antenna ore dosent matter if thring antenna is bad ? thanks
Do I put back the yellow plug back after bypassing those wires. I bypasses the wires and I haven't put back the plug. There is no spark and fuel at the moment.
will this not crank but also kill the fuel pump? I had this issue but at first I could push start it, but then It stopped push starting too, but after a couple days would work normal again?!?!??
Not sure I understand, but the fuel pump itself should be ok, you are just getting (or not getting) power to it. None of this will kill the pump.
:)
I did the old take the coil out of the hole and put a spark plug in the coil ( with ground strap bolted up to the coil and the plug pressed firmly into the coil) then grounded the threads of the plug to the head with a jumper. then i was able to sit in the passenger seat and look at the plug while turning the engine over. no spark.
and if there is not what is my next step? im very mechanical but this harness is pretty crazy. I am thankful for any help!
OMG I'm so thankful for this video I'm jus keeping my fingers crossed an praying that it works I barely bought the car about a month ago n my car is doing exactly like this video.. God bless you thank you so much .. Pray it works for me thanks!
Also what is the pricing on the AWS BYPASS? And we're can I find one that's cheap??
Jazmine Ramirez I would not pay anything for what you can do for free. Never heard of anyone selling a "bypass" be careful of scams.
:)
i have the same year and model of car, how did you fix your no crank problem. i connected the two big wires like the video says and it cranks but doesnt kick over. is it the coils??
Did some digging around, got the car to tumble, got the fuel pumping to the engine. Just one little thing I'm missing. Seems I'm not getting any spark. But everything else seems to be functioning. What can be done to the DME? Any helpful websites?
I have a 95' 325i that was not cranking. I thought it was the starter, so I replaced it and it still no crank. So I went ahead and did what you did and bridged the two wires and it cranked up. Now, I haven't tried to fully start it yet bc I forgot to put on an important hose so had to take manifold again but am doing that after work. I've been reading that this will only make it crank and not start, and im worried mine will do the same. So ALL you did here was bridge the two wires. Right??