As a relatively new subscriber, I just have to say that it's obvious to me that you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to firearms and reloading. As of last count I think I have watched 50+ videos of yours. I was actually turned into your channel after watching a few of 314299 videos on the Lee Loadall II. After watching yours I knew that reloading/bullet casting was somthing I like to try. I had all of the gear for melting lead right at home here minus the lead. So off to the range I went and gathered some 48lbs of scrap in my first sift. Not knowing a whole lot about the reloading process, I wasn't quite sure where to start, so I've gone ahead and ordered the 50th edition of the Lyman reloading manual, guess that's a good place to start as any. Keep the great videos coming, I absolutely love what you do, and can see it's a great passion of yours, great job.
After a few years of fails with tumbling pc i ordered some ford light blue and some 18k gold from powder by the pound and now ive got it. Thanks for the vid.
To avoid the light areas and the touching of the powder coated boolits I follow Loads of Bacon's method of using bullet trays to drop them in and then transfer them to the oven pan. I do 150 bullets at a time and they come out even and beautifully covered. Your videos have led me into a new world of loading and casting of boolits.
Don't know if you have thought of this or it's been recommended: get a roll of 1/4" hardware cloth and make a flat basket custom sized to your toaster oven. This allows bullies to lay flat, not clumped. Minimizes touching and having to bust the bullets apart. Also better for shaking out excess. Make two and cycle them for large jobs. I made mine with 1" sides. Works well. Thanks for the video(s). Very helpful.
Rob Ingram - Yes on the baskets...they work well with some powders, not as well with others. I like to use the baskets whenever possible... Have a great day, and thanks for posting your procedures... FC
The higher quality powder coat makes it easier to do.......I thought so........I would not have thought that the different colors could be so different in results.............Thanks again FC
CountryBoyPrepper - Thanks for dropping in..!! Always good to hear from the CountryBoyPrepper. You might agree that with HF Red and Eastwood blue, those powders are all we need...they just work without a lot of fiddlin' ... Best to ya, FC
Hey FC, Elvis Ammo speaks highly of you in his videos. What I find helps for less clear spots and more even coverage of my bullets, is to put them on the tray that comes with the oven and shake that tray to try and get them all in one layer. Then cook, then dump in the bucket. What's nice about the rejects is that we can toss them back in the melting pot. Happy coating to ya !!
Nick J - And Elvis Ammo's single layer basket bake - there's a lot of positive to that...cuts down on the bullet to bullet contact areas...But I'm happy enough with the 4 deep bullet stacking - does increase my production and performance has not been negatively affected doing that. Best to ya, FC
Glad to watch this up close look at your results. Makes me feel better about how mine look. Mine turn out coated but blotchy. Not beautifully smooth like your red ones usually do. And I always have bits missing from touching each other. But as you say it's no big deal. I also use a small file to smooth off some of the jagged bits where they break apart, if it's bad enough. As for the smash test. You think it standing up to a hammer is impressive, I recovered huge flattened chunks from my 45 colt against steel targets. And the whole bullet base and flattened edges are still blue!!! It sure does stick!
I will get into powder coating someday, and these videos will certainly be referenced when that day comes! And btw, the word you were looking for at 12:00 was "fillet", pronounced "fill-it" ; )
I just received my order for seafoam green. My wife picked it out for me. I'm going to color code my bullets by hardness. My friends want me to reload for them. I can't get a class 6 FFL for reloading for resale. I'm within 1000 feet from a school. I really don't want to make money off of friends. We are supposed to help our friends. Now I could get some supplies for doing it for them. I would really like to teach them how to do it so I can pass on my knowledge to others. I don't have kids to teach. I do have step kids but that's a different story. sorry for the long post.
Do the bare areas of the pc'd boolit coming in contact with the bore leave any traces of leading? And do the imperfection areas (clumps and stuck spots on the ogive) affect the ballistics? Lastly, how have your experiences been with pc'ing rifle projectiles with no gas checks, assuming you've done this. I've been following Elvis and his results with .223 and .300 blk seem to provide a good alternative.
Between you and Elvis ammo, I'm leaning more and more towards casting my own bullets. Right now I reload mostly plated bullets from some of the better known vendors. I do buy on occasion, hard cast bullets. It would be nice to cast my own though. Thanks for your videos, you rock!
64samsky - When I first started bullet casting - was with a one cavity Lee mold - slow as molasses. Before I started making videos, I used to shoot up a box of 50 ammo or more in the 15 minute shooting periods. (load 5 10 round 45 magazines during the target changes) Then we would shoot 500 rounds a night of Saturday Night Steel. Perhaps you are doing that already. When a shooter goes through ammo like that - the Lee 6 cavity bullet molds and progressive Dillon presses really come into their own...Nothing wrong with buying commercial cast and plated running in progs though... shooters in competition need to get in their range time rather than sit at casting pots and sizers (or PC ovens) - Richard Lee knew that and came out with the 6s and his no size TL bullet designs. Good shootin' to ya... FC
Nice to see you doing the test. They all look great ! The candy coat is really for 2-stage painting. You pick another color for the first coat then put the candy coat on top.
Vengenace Early - Thanks for the info...there are some real interesting coatings out there - like SpectraChrome. There are so many ways to powder coat our bullets out there with dry and wet powder, hand tumbling, vibe tumbling, heat / tumble, and the gamut of electrostatic... I'm trying to find the best balance of clean, simple and economical... Let's see how these Eastwoods shoot... looking pretty good so far... Have a great day, to VE - FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC- I have Spectra Chrome ! That is funny you should mention it. You do a lot of handgun casting and I am sure you will find the right recipe that works for you. Keep up the great work. Can't wait to get back to casting. Just finished my gun projects-- I refinished a 1911 Schmidt-Rubin, a 24/47 Mauser and a Mosin Nagant. It will be a lot of fun casting and shooting those rifles with Powder Coated bullets. I have spent a lot of time over in the Cast Boolit message boards researching these bullets. Talk to a soon.
Hi FC, cheers from Germany. What I don´t like with the HITEK coating is that I have to coat the bullets twice to get a good result. Did you do it only once?
Hi FC Iv'e used the dark Ford blue and the Neon Green from Eastwood and the covers great.. It's covers as good if not better then the HF Red. Happy powder coating... :)
I've tried a lot of colors and brands and nothing so far beats that Eastwood Ford Light Blue. I can tumble for 15 min, shake them out on a screen, pick each one up with my hand (wearing a Nitrile glove) and the coat still stays on. With the Harbor Freight red, you have to be really careful if you handle them or it'll come right off. Another real good one that you can handle all you want is Powder By The Pound durable gloss black.
Toolness1 - Thanks for the recommendation on the PBTP Black - but I have an aversion to black bullets because when they are in revolver chamber throats, the gun looks like it isn't loaded in the mirror. I really do want my big bore pistols to display their wares so to speak... Best to ya, FC
Hello, I have two questions 1. why did you put those bullets in cold water? since they were already coated. 2. Even on the bullets that are blotchy do you think that we will see any leading in the barrels or is it enough that we will not have. Thanks for the great video.
I just got some Eastwood lime green, sea foam green, and appliance white. So far the sea foam and lime green are just like the light ford blue as far as ease of use!
Hello I just started to fill the bullets to reduce the paint barrel plaster you use? How can we provide the paint? How many degrees and how many minutes do we have to wait in the oven?
How do you get your bullets so evenly coated and perfect-looking like that? I JUST DON'T GET IT! I've tried shaking them in a container with BBs, without BBs, electrostatic powder coating (which can only be done in small batches and is far more time consuming). I'm getting frustrated and need some help if you would. Thanks! Love your videos by the way.
Thanks, FC. Been curious about the eastwood powders for a while now, just didn't want to spend the shipping money when the harbor freight powder works well.
Richard Akers - And cost is a factor...I could be very happy only using HF red and yellow. But trying out higher quality powders is something that PCers out there need some info on before they try that...and we can all benefit from what others have done as well...Now I know that Eastwood lime green, and Mirror Red are also powders that give good results without having to try their whole spectrum... plus, there is a fun factor to other colors - why not? Why not indeed as another video will be bringing that out soon... Best to ya, FC
I've also had a great experience with their Ford Light Blue. FYI, their Mirror Red is very similar in color to the Harbor Freight red, and is as easy to use as their Ford Light Blue.
FYI, I use color to differentiate between loads. I currently use red for most loads, and if I load the same bullet/same caliber with a lighter load, I use the Ford Light Blue. One example - I load the same bullet for a top end 38 spl +P, and a bottom end 38 spl. The +P is red, and the mouse fart load is blue. I've considered using a third color for any middle of the road load, but haven't actually needed that yet. If I do, it will probably be green. Thanks for the great videos!
tip for you! Most Metallic powders want the ESPC method. how ever if you mix some of your blue with it it will allow the other ones to get a better coat, and you get cool colors. make some killer green mixing the orange / blue see what you get.
N Olesen -- OK, take you up on that orange / blue... I wasn't going to mix any powders, but might go ahead and do that as you suggest... Best to ya, FC
I had a similar issue with powder coating pulling off with Eastwood FLB when separating. I wound up buying a cheap silicone mat and standing them upright during the cook. ( I just use my fingers) This produced a textbook finish. Also my toaster oven as way off (hot)compared to the dial reading.
1997LT1Camaro - I think I got mental with that Vermillion because it was so pretty in the basket, I didn't shake all the loose powder out wanting to not disturb the vermillion...so wound up with powder bridging between some of the bullets - a no-no. Need to do more with it...but the stand up method is always a go to if I really want the perfect finish... Let's see how these rascals shoot... Best Regards to ya, FC
Yes I would have much preferred the basket method to work. It just seems so much easier. Maybe I just need to pre shake them even more to get even more powder off prior to bake? After doing like 3 baskets of ammo with bad results I went to the stand up method. Oddly enough my oven even deformed some of the lead bullets it was so far off in temp in the beginning. I ran every one of mine through a sizing die after coating. I wasnt sure if multi powdercoats would increase the thickness too much. A few of them were too thick according to the sizing die, as it sheered some of the coating.
1997LT1Camaro - My preference is to do one coat PC...if it takes more than that, I'll just use the 45/45/10 tumble lube system, thank you (that allows lubing 1000 bullets in total time of 12 minutes of actual work - plus nice patina results and performance). We want to shoot, shoot with performance, and shoot clean - pretty bullets all globby with excess PC is adverse to that. Thin PC coatings that show all bullet detail are best. And those size with perfect driving bands in PC that are in line with same in regular cast bullets. It's all in my strategic plan for PC - I should do a video on that... I did my homework and then started out with what I wanted PC bullets to do. If any PC powder or procedure deviated from that, it was rejected. Thanks for spurring that... Best Regards, FC
I just use Elvis's method with the harbor freight powder in red. I did a few different colors for shoots and giggles but I mainly stick with the HF red since its so cheap now.
Deezildennis - That there elvis ammo method I have called the Elvis 4 / 140 system - (seems the name hasn't caught on though). And HF red is the gold standard for all HF powders, for sure. WIth HF red, I really don't need the Eastwood Ford light blue either...that blue does have some real charm though - but more expensive... Best to ya, FC
I just prefer to call it the Elvis method. To be honest with you, I wouldn't even use the tumbler. The sterilite N05 recycle marked containers have the powder on the boolits in like 30 seconds or so shaking them and then they are ready to bake. With two wire mesh draw organizers as the baking trays I can bake a fairly large amount in about a hour. take care.
Does powder coating increase the ballistic speed due to it's "non-stick" quality? Will it stand up to friction heat generated during flight with feet per second speeds up to 4,000?
Do the little imperfections hurt the accuracy? Seeing them up close, the thinner areas where they were touching something aren't as rough as I had expected. I guess once they dry it's thin enough to where variations in thickness aren't an issue.
shananagans5 - If bullets are stood on bases to go into the oven, we get perfect coating, but the time required is not warranted as performance is not affected. Even small thin areas on the driving bands are of no consequences. Would be different for rifle shooting though...we need all the help we can get at distance. Shaz, you have a fine day, FC Steve
How do those HF Yellow - 44 cal 240gr. SWC's work as far as barrel leading goes ? I cant push my LEE mould .44cal 214 gr SWC's wheelweight alloy, traditional lubed, much past 1175fps. Without getting bad leading.....
Them some fine colors you got there Mr fortune Cookie! Funny how the different colors act so different in the same brand... Who knew! You should try that Ford light blue at least with the Quick, Shake ,Bake.. Method sometime.. One of the big benefits of that particular powder? I think they all pass the test for SHOOTING! Do ya think the water dump has any benefit? Did they separate easier? With less damage? Great Job again !
elvis ammo - Always good to hear from ya..!! I've been telling others to do the elvis 4 /140 system...only reason I haven't done it is my vibe tumbler hasn't failed me yet...but when and if it does, it's the elvis 4 / 140 for sure...if I do that, I'm going to get a second oven so I can run one at 140 and the other at 400 and do an assembly line. One thing about doing the PC bullet dump onto concrete floor and separating the bullets while still warm is that if I'm too quick, the handling dulls the PC finish...by doing the water quench, there is none of that...and that is neat... Also, any preservation of the hardness would be good - however, when we size the bullets, we will lose any hardness gained by water quenching either from the casting or the PC anyway. To me, doesn't matter much, because I depend on my alloy for the hardness anyway. And I haven't noticed huge hardness gains by water quench in the first place... I do water quench out of the mold because there is some gain though. Have you noticed huge hardness gains by water quench? Best to ya, FC
nrainfidelforlife - That is the powder coating technique of Elvis Ammo who advocates heating our cast bullets for 4 minutes at 140 degrees before plopping them into a hand tumbler to get the powder to stick to the bullets. Others do the pain hand tumble; some do the acetone / PC; some tumble in vibratory tumblers and get success. I have found the vibe tumbler to work without fail so far. I gave Elvis Ammo's technique the name 4 / 140 Elvis System. If our other modes don't work, we should give the 4 / 140 a try. Best Regards to ya, FC
Even though I don't powder coat. I believe that this method gives a minimum cost to production. and is easier than older methods such as seizer lubricators when Handling the Bullets one at a time with two actions needed to the finished product. and for all intensive purposes they give fine accuracy, as much as needed for handguns.
Never got good results with HF red- static was a problem on several bullets including 230gr 300AAC BLK OUT in HF tumbler (see earlier post). Was going to send you samples but thought my issue. Need to re- address getting more static. After some delay in tests, I just ordered a few bags of Eastwood Powders. I hope I can do a good job with fast coating in a simple tub.
Will Roberts - It the HF tumbler is the one that was rubber lined, that probably is the problem - a plastic tumbler like the one on Lyman Turbos and FAs, Dillons, etc are what is needed to build up the charge to stick the powder. Your simple tub can work also, but with the vibe tumbler, you just run it and come back 15 minutes later...I have not had the no stick since I switched to the vibe tumber. Also, the Elvis Ammo 4 /140 system may work for you if hand or vibe tumbling doesn't work. I know what happens when you get the no stick - I have a little jar of badly coated bullets done with the no stick...there is no point in proceeding when the bullets are not coated with powder going into the oven. Please let me know how the Eastwood powders work for you. Best Regards, FC
Don Gayan Amarasinghe - No on the Hi-Tek - but from what I've heard, it is a fine PC. Might buy a couple hundred of those Hi-Teks to try out though...might find that they are really good...or not... Best to ya...FC
Hi Steve can I powder coat and shoot 223 rifle rounds is it safe as I have a supply of pure lead 224 cal rounds and I powder coat up to now slugs only please can you help cheers buddy Mike bagnall
G'day, I am new to powder coating bullets, I made a batch with Eastwood satin black, cannot shoot atm we are in lockdown, but the abrasiveness question came up from a mate, I checked and asked the supplier, the response was that it does contain Titanium Oxide. So whats the deal with the abrasiveness ? any scientific data on it ? many thanks
Dick Tickles - Thanks for the good question. I watched every powder coat bullet video there was before I started doing it myself (now there are lots more videos), and one of the coaters mentioned that HF Black might cause some barrel wear. It may be hearsay, but with the other colors like red, yellow and white, why bother with the black. I found that the red was a piece of cake with yellow right there. The white did not do well for me with my vibratory coating. Elvis ammo gets good white with his 4 / 140 system (4 minutes at 140 degrees - then right into the manual hand tumble to get bullets to coat and works well). If I used his system, I think I would run two ovens - one at 140 and one at 400 so I wouldn't have to keep gyrating the temps...it would allow me to get that good white color, but the red and yellow are such slam dunks with the vibe tumbler...I don't need the white. Eastwood powders are more expensive (like almost 2X price) but we'll see how the rounds look - coming up next... Best to ya, FC
May I suggest? Fabricate a basket that allows the bullets to spread out in a single layer. It will reduce the clumping and increase your yield of acceptable bullets
Rogers Steven - That's actually what elvis ammo does - the one layer bullets separated basket...might just do that in my next batching...Have a great day, FC
Yesterday, I cast for the first time a bunch of .223 bullets (RCBS mold) then pc'd them in usual way for me....that is a Cool Whip container. I used a very nice powder available from Smoke420 on the Castboolits forum. Because they are so tiny, i can't stand them up like i do with the usual pistol bullets, and so they like down...some in contact with each other. They get baked then immediately tossed in quench like you do. The ones in contact with each other are very hard to separate (testament to the quality of the powder). I just don't see how baking them all together in a basket doesn't end up as just one big "popcorn ball"! What the heck am I doing wrong?
Alan Bycroft - I didn't show the big clumps I got with the vermillion as the video was getting long. When there is excess powder (not shaking the basket until no more loose powder falls through), that excess will "bridge" from one bullet to another. It is that bridging that makes the bullets not separate easily. If the excess powder is gone, the contact surface of the powder is not enough to keep the bullets from separating when thrown into the water unless there are multiple contact areas = hence the minor two bullet clumping that is easy to push apart. The problem with the 22 bullets is the ease at which the shanks "parallel" themselves allowing the difficult separation especially if excess powder is present... It is actually part of the reason I shoot jacketed bullets in my 223s and have foregone any PC there...but I have the luxury of having purchased a lifetime supply of 55 grain FMJ 22s in bulk purchases made many years ago. Plus, for my accuracy shooting, I also have big stocks of Sierra match bullets purchased in 6 box sleeves back in my High Power days...I really prefer to shoot PC cast bullets in my 30 cal milsurps, my 30/30 and 45/70 all great calibers for cast bullet shooting. In my opinion, any caliber less than 7mm is not a great caliber for cast bullets, PC or not. Sorry for the long reply... Best to ya, FC
Interesting comparison. The only powder coat I have is Harbor Freight yellow. I bought it based on your recommendation, with the 20% off coupon it was less than $5 if I remember correctly. I am happy with it and I don't know how long it will take to use up but I don't see myself running out in the near future. I seem to recall you saying that you do not need to harden your lead if you powder coat the bullets correctly, am I remembering correctly? I am only asking because I want to do this as frugally as possible.
Jake Outdoors - The HF yellow is pretty doggone good powder...I've always said that the HF red is the best of the HFs with the yellow not far behind. I could be very happy with the HF yellow...it's just that we PCers can't resist trying other colors eventually. And congrats on getting it with that coupon...that's spectacular price on powder. As for hardness, you really do want to have some kind of hardness control for consistency. PC has just made hardness in pistol shooting less of consideration... but I can now shoot all my BHN 10 - 12 at magnum velocities with accuracy and non leading with the PC. My range scrap is BHN 10-12 so I don't have to add any extra antimony and tin unless accuracy is improved by doing so - leading control is provided. I still want BHN 18 for my Keith bullets - good for crash through (crashing through what would be a good question). Have a great day, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Thank you for the in-depth response on my question. Next time I get to HF I will be getting the red. (I think when I went they were out and I really did not want to go back another day.) I guess ill order some lead hardener too, my lead is mostly range scrap, and random lead that I come across. As far as Keith bullets crashing through things, I think that was Keith's ideology. So you don't need a reason, just keep true to the legacy. Well that is unless you get some really tough playing cards that a standard bullet will not penetrate. LOL You also have a great day!
boomer dog - I bought the Eastwood Vermilion (orange) - should have just mixed the HF red and yellow as you suggest...might still try that to compare with the vermillion... Best to ya, FC
Jake Outdoors - Nothing wrong with frugality..!! Powder coating allows us to shoot softer lead at higher velocities within reason... So if we shoot our BHN 12 (target or standard velocity hardness) - we can use that for +P+ or even light magnums with powder coating. Or if we shoot 16 - 1 alloy (BHN10) like Elmer Keith, and powder coat those bullets, we can get expansion and no leading. But we do need some hardness though...if the lead is too soft, it won't take the rifling, especially if fired on the high speed side. Good shootin' to ya, FC
Holy powder, Batman! Whole pound of powder for a few bullets? Old video, obviously you were still new to PC. Nonetheless, educational and informational.
is the eastwood 'hotcoat' ford light blue the same as what you used? one thing I do that helps me.. is to use a silicone mat and then dump the whole thing in a 5 filled with water... seems to break em up an make it easier.
Doran Maxwell - I've found that the water quench out of the oven does very little in maintaining hardness, but the bullets did separate just from the drop into the water bucket...Why not? Quenching doesn't hurt anything and also cools the bullets down immediately for handling - Nothing wrong with that...!! Best Regards, FC
yes.. I never gave it much thought. I water drop my bullets when casting and have done so since the 70's.. not because I thought it made em harder but because it was easier for me. I did notice that they tended to be a bit harder but that was never the goal and with PC I don't think hardness is much of a factor anyway. maybe not even really careful sizing to chambers. they seem to act more like jacketed bullets in that regard. anyway.. thanks for replying. The whole water drop thing has always been about fast handling but I think the drop from the oven helps to break them up a lot better. also the silicone mat is a great think IMO.
Learning a lot from your videos. I have found a mat that you and Elvis might like to try. "Miracle Grill Mat" Distributed by Golden West Marketing, Inc 1-800-995-8141. The powder doesn't even stick after baking.
what would be the advantage to standing all the bullets on their base?......that is where I like the bullets to be perfect. I get small nicks on the sides of mine all the time and it doesn't cause leading or bad accuracy. In my opinion the base is where the coating should be the best to act like a gas check. If I am wrong about any of this I would like to know about it......we are all learning this as we go, therefore it is us who are the pioneers this time much like Aylmer Kieth and Richard Lee.
I just go to the local powder coater and hand him 20 dollars to fill me a container............he came out with a 1 gallon can full ........that was last spring and I still have 3/4 can left...........I ordered John Deer green from Emerald powder coats and it was terrible.......couldn't take a static charge so I am thinking its more of a electrostatic spray specialty paint as is with most of these. So we will have to use trial and error to find the coatings that work with tumble the best.
BPCR Bigginer - Echo what you say as I'm enjoying my PC bullets with the 4 deep basket bake - the bullet shoot clean and well - plus, they don't look bad at all - kinda makes a caster happy... Best Regards to ya, FC
BPCR Bigginer - Don Denison has said he gets real good shooting out of Big Lube Bullet molds - they have the most grease capacity of all molds for extended black powder shooting. And Accurate molds makes smooth side molds just for powder coating... Nice to know that we should avoid the powders that really require electrostatic to really work well...Best to ya, FC
thank you or the info on accurate molds.....found a great mold for the 50-95 but I think I will powder coat those and then add lube for the black powder. should be interesting and I suspect I may get the best of both worlds from these loads. I will use pure lead for the mix to ensure the bullets upset in the bore.
Chad Muir - I tend to stay away from black bullets as big meplat's have a definite calming effect when viewed from the front of revolver cylinders. If bullets were black, it would appear as if the gun was not loaded at all. Even auto pistols can show the bullet if the barrel axis is in line with eyeballs. I'd prefer the loudest most bodacious colors available instead. Best to ya, FC
Luke Calacci - Just did that...Casted the Lyman 245 Keith bullet and the Lee 240 grain 44 cal RN. Plus have other videos already up on other bullets and loading of same... Thanks for your interest... FC
Myles Nicholas - When the safety checks are made during target changes, the RMs do pause to get a look at the bullets, but they really aren't anything they haven't seen before... Have a great day, FC
Too bad the vermillion didn't turn out as nice as the ford light blue. I really like that color. On the upside, Eastwood has hundred of colors to choose from.
This method is called hot flocking in the PC world. It is good for when you have a basecoat down and your trying to spray a candy color over the basecoat. It works the same for bullets. Since we are not using an actual PC gun to spray and static charge the bullets, we can just coat and heat, or heat and coat. Elvis is using a combo of what I am talking about. I guess the objective is the same, but heating prior and then coating is for when you cant get the powder to stick prior to baking.
Brian Meier - 1997LT1Camaro's reply is excellent and I enjoyed that also...only would add that I'd call that heat system - the Elvis 4 / 140 system - kinda like naming a new star in the night sky. I haven't used his system yet since my vibe tumbler has not failed to get powder to coat yet... but if I ever get that no-stick, you can bet that I'll give that a try. Have a great day to you both... FC
Marty Scruggs - some do three...but I only want to do one. Thin is good, thick PC is not desired. We want the bullet detail to still be clear - and 2 coats doesn't do that...Plus the time that is expended is unwarranted... Have a great day, FC
The day will come when indoor pistol ranges will only allow powder or jacketed projectiles. Traditional cast plus lube will not be allowed. Big brother wants to keep lead fumes down for our safety. Another personnel intrusion in our lives.
B.R. Hood - Great point... For some nefarious reason, I haven't found any recovered rounds around the armor plate bullet deflectors at our range when I'm gathering range scrap...Thankfully, other PC shooters have recovered their bullets showing that PC does stay on. For me, as long as my barrels clean up fine and easy...that's where it's at... PC is amazing in that my raw bullets are over my final desired size and then the PC adds .001-.002" - when I size 'em (the lead is being sized as well as the PC), the PC is on there nicely in spite of the sizing. Best Regards, FC
boomer dog - The HF red is very good, but my tumbler was loaded with the yellow - and the yellow works pretty darn good so we can't go wrong with the HF red or yellow... Thanks for your comment, FC
As a relatively new subscriber, I just have to say that it's obvious to me that you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to firearms and reloading. As of last count I think I have watched 50+ videos of yours. I was actually turned into your channel after watching a few of 314299 videos on the Lee Loadall II. After watching yours I knew that reloading/bullet casting was somthing I like to try. I had all of the gear for melting lead right at home here minus the lead. So off to the range I went and gathered some 48lbs of scrap in my first sift. Not knowing a whole lot about the reloading process, I wasn't quite sure where to start, so I've gone ahead and ordered the 50th edition of the Lyman reloading manual, guess that's a good place to start as any. Keep the great videos coming, I absolutely love what you do, and can see it's a great passion of yours, great job.
avid huntr1016 - Sorry this reply is late, but whenever Google does not post a comment in my inbox, I won't see it for months. You are starting off well with the gathering of range scrap...plus the Lyman Manual...You might also build up your supply of range brass - most ranges, if you are discreet, you can pick up new factory once fired brass for free. Please keep in touch as you progress in your reloading and any casting you might do... Have a great Memorial Day, FC
As a relatively new subscriber, I just have to say that it's obvious to me that you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to firearms and reloading. As of last count I think I have watched 50+ videos of yours. I was actually turned into your channel after watching a few of 314299 videos on the Lee Loadall II. After watching yours I knew that reloading/bullet casting was somthing I like to try. I had all of the gear for melting lead right at home here minus the lead. So off to the range I went and gathered some 48lbs of scrap in my first sift. Not knowing a whole lot about the reloading process, I wasn't quite sure where to start, so I've gone ahead and ordered the 50th edition of the Lyman reloading manual, guess that's a good place to start as any. Keep the great videos coming, I absolutely love what you do, and can see it's a great passion of yours, great job.
After a few years of fails with tumbling pc i ordered some ford light blue and some 18k gold from powder by the pound and now ive got it. Thanks for the vid.
To avoid the light areas and the touching of the powder coated boolits I follow Loads of Bacon's method of using bullet trays to drop them in and then transfer them to the oven pan. I do 150 bullets at a time and they come out even and beautifully covered. Your videos have led me into a new world of loading and casting of boolits.
I just started doing this. It is soooo much better than wax or lubalox. Sorry I waited so long. It was much easier than I thought.
Love your videos .. such a wealth of info.
Don't know if you have thought of this or it's been recommended: get a roll of 1/4" hardware cloth and make a flat basket custom sized to your toaster oven. This allows bullies to lay flat, not clumped. Minimizes touching and having to bust the bullets apart. Also better for shaking out excess. Make two and cycle them for large jobs. I made mine with 1" sides. Works well. Thanks for the video(s). Very helpful.
Rob Ingram - Yes on the baskets...they work well with some powders, not as well with others. I like to use the baskets whenever possible... Have a great day, and thanks for posting your procedures... FC
The higher quality powder coat makes it easier to do.......I thought so........I would not have thought that the different colors could be so different in results.............Thanks again FC
I've been very happy with the HF red but I'm gonna have to try that blue. Looks great! Thanks for sharing!
CountryBoyPrepper - Thanks for dropping in..!! Always good to hear from the CountryBoyPrepper. You might agree that with HF Red and Eastwood blue, those powders are all we need...they just work without a lot of fiddlin' ... Best to ya, FC
I've gotten great results from Eastwoods diamond black metallic, and from the eastwood hotcoat gray.
I would highly recommend Prismatic Powder, they have some top notch stuff that coats really nice if you get solid/opaque colors.
Hey FC, Elvis Ammo speaks highly of you in his videos.
What I find helps for less clear spots and more even coverage of my bullets, is to put them on the tray that comes with the oven and shake that tray to try and get them all in one layer. Then cook, then dump in the bucket. What's nice about the rejects is that we can toss them back in the melting pot. Happy coating to ya !!
Nick J - And Elvis Ammo's single layer basket bake - there's a lot of positive to that...cuts down on the bullet to bullet contact areas...But I'm happy enough with the 4 deep bullet stacking - does increase my production and performance has not been negatively affected doing that. Best to ya, FC
Glad to watch this up close look at your results. Makes me feel better about how mine look. Mine turn out coated but blotchy. Not beautifully smooth like your red ones usually do. And I always have bits missing from touching each other. But as you say it's no big deal. I also use a small file to smooth off some of the jagged bits where they break apart, if it's bad enough.
As for the smash test. You think it standing up to a hammer is impressive, I recovered huge flattened chunks from my 45 colt against steel targets. And the whole bullet base and flattened edges are still blue!!! It sure does stick!
Dave L - That's one mighty fine comment...!! Thanks for making it to our edification, Dave... Have a great day, FC
I will get into powder coating someday, and these videos will certainly be referenced when that day comes!
And btw, the word you were looking for at 12:00 was "fillet", pronounced "fill-it" ; )
spyderxtra777 - You might get a little kick out of my next video though... ;) :) FC
I just received my order for seafoam green. My wife picked it out for me. I'm going to color code my bullets by hardness. My friends want me to reload for them. I can't get a class 6 FFL for reloading for resale. I'm within 1000 feet from a school. I really don't want to make money off of friends. We are supposed to help our friends. Now I could get some supplies for doing it for them. I would really like to teach them how to do it so I can pass on my knowledge to others. I don't have kids to teach. I do have step kids but that's a different story. sorry for the long post.
Do the bare areas of the pc'd boolit coming in contact with the bore leave any traces of leading? And do the imperfection areas (clumps and stuck spots on the ogive) affect the ballistics? Lastly, how have your experiences been with pc'ing rifle projectiles with no gas checks, assuming you've done this. I've been following Elvis and his results with .223 and .300 blk seem to provide a good alternative.
Between you and Elvis ammo, I'm leaning more and more towards casting my own bullets. Right now I reload mostly plated bullets from some of the better known vendors. I do buy on occasion, hard cast bullets. It would be nice to cast my own though. Thanks for your videos, you rock!
64samsky - When I first started bullet casting - was with a one cavity Lee mold - slow as molasses. Before I started making videos, I used to shoot up a box of 50 ammo or more in the 15 minute shooting periods. (load 5 10 round 45 magazines during the target changes) Then we would shoot 500 rounds a night of Saturday Night Steel. Perhaps you are doing that already. When a shooter goes through ammo like that - the Lee 6 cavity bullet molds and progressive Dillon presses really come into their own...Nothing wrong with buying commercial cast and plated running in progs though... shooters in competition need to get in their range time rather than sit at casting pots and sizers (or PC ovens) - Richard Lee knew that and came out with the 6s and his no size TL bullet designs. Good shootin' to ya... FC
I sure miss castin', coatin', sizin' and loadin'... great review and greetings from Okinawa
shotgundrums - And big greetings to you in Okinawa!! Best to ya, FC
Nice to see you doing the test. They all look great !
The candy coat is really for 2-stage painting. You pick another color for the first coat then put the candy coat on top.
Vengenace Early - Thanks for the info...there are some real interesting coatings out there - like SpectraChrome. There are so many ways to powder coat our bullets out there with dry and wet powder, hand tumbling, vibe tumbling, heat / tumble, and the gamut of electrostatic... I'm trying to find the best balance of clean, simple and economical... Let's see how these Eastwoods shoot... looking pretty good so far... Have a great day, to VE - FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC- I have Spectra Chrome ! That is funny you should mention it. You do a lot of handgun casting and I am sure you will find the right recipe that works for you. Keep up the great work.
Can't wait to get back to casting. Just finished my gun projects-- I refinished a 1911 Schmidt-Rubin, a 24/47 Mauser and a Mosin Nagant. It will be a lot of fun casting and shooting those rifles with Powder Coated bullets. I have spent a lot of time over in the Cast Boolit message boards researching these bullets. Talk to a soon.
VE - Congrats on finishing so many projects... Shooting will be real fun... Best Regards, FC
Hi FC,
cheers from Germany.
What I don´t like with the HITEK coating is that I have to coat the bullets twice to get a good result.
Did you do it only once?
Hi FC Iv'e used the dark Ford blue and the Neon Green from Eastwood and the covers great.. It's covers as good if not better then the HF Red. Happy powder coating... :)
Widow Maker - Haven't tried the Neon Green yet - sounds like a good powder to get... Best to ya, FC
I've tried a lot of colors and brands and nothing so far beats that Eastwood Ford Light Blue. I can tumble for 15 min, shake them out on a screen, pick each one up with my hand (wearing a Nitrile glove) and the coat still stays on. With the Harbor Freight red, you have to be really careful if you handle them or it'll come right off. Another real good one that you can handle all you want is Powder By The Pound durable gloss black.
Toolness1 - Thanks for the recommendation on the PBTP Black - but I have an aversion to black bullets because when they are in revolver chamber throats, the gun looks like it isn't loaded in the mirror. I really do want my big bore pistols to display their wares so to speak... Best to ya, FC
Hello, I have two questions 1. why did you put those bullets in cold water? since they were already coated. 2. Even on the bullets that are blotchy do you think that we will see any leading in the barrels or is it enough that we will not have. Thanks for the great video.
I just got some Eastwood lime green, sea foam green, and appliance white. So far the sea foam and lime green are just like the light ford blue as far as ease of use!
Walter Bunning yes sir!
dubthekid84 - That info is good as gold... will save a lot of guess and golly...Best to ya, FC
Hello I just started to fill the bullets to reduce the paint barrel plaster you use?
How can we provide the paint?
How many degrees and how many minutes do we have to wait in the oven?
By any chance do you use the same tumbler on brass as you do with the powdercoating?
How do you get your bullets so evenly coated and perfect-looking like that? I JUST DON'T GET IT! I've tried shaking them in a container with BBs, without BBs, electrostatic powder coating (which can only be done in small batches and is far more time consuming). I'm getting frustrated and need some help if you would. Thanks! Love your videos by the way.
I would love to start doing this but is hard to find pistol primers
Thanks, FC. Been curious about the eastwood powders for a while now, just didn't want to spend the shipping money when the harbor freight powder works well.
Richard Akers - And cost is a factor...I could be very happy only using HF red and yellow. But trying out higher quality powders is something that PCers out there need some info on before they try that...and we can all benefit from what others have done as well...Now I know that Eastwood lime green, and Mirror Red are also powders that give good results without having to try their whole spectrum... plus, there is a fun factor to other colors - why not? Why not indeed as another video will be bringing that out soon... Best to ya, FC
hi,
what kind of powder do you use - epoxy, polyester, ..
regards from austria, luke
I've also had a great experience with their Ford Light Blue. FYI, their Mirror Red is very similar in color to the Harbor Freight red, and is as easy to use as their Ford Light Blue.
James Gipe - And thank you for that - now we have a fine review on Eastwood lime green and Mirror Red as well... Best Regards, FC
FYI, I use color to differentiate between loads. I currently use red for most loads, and if I load the same bullet/same caliber with a lighter load, I use the Ford Light Blue. One example - I load the same bullet for a top end 38 spl +P, and a bottom end 38 spl. The +P is red, and the mouse fart load is blue. I've considered using a third color for any middle of the road load, but haven't actually needed that yet. If I do, it will probably be green.
Thanks for the great videos!
tip for you! Most Metallic powders want the ESPC method.
how ever if you mix some of your blue with it it will allow the other ones to get a better coat, and you get cool colors.
make some killer green mixing the orange / blue see what you get.
N Olesen -- OK, take you up on that orange / blue... I wasn't going to mix any powders, but might go ahead and do that as you suggest... Best to ya, FC
I had a similar issue with powder coating pulling off with Eastwood FLB when separating. I wound up buying a cheap silicone mat and standing them upright during the cook. ( I just use my fingers) This produced a textbook finish. Also my toaster oven as way off (hot)compared to the dial reading.
1997LT1Camaro - I think I got mental with that Vermillion because it was so pretty in the basket, I didn't shake all the loose powder out wanting to not disturb the vermillion...so wound up with powder bridging between some of the bullets - a no-no. Need to do more with it...but the stand up method is always a go to if I really want the perfect finish... Let's see how these rascals shoot... Best Regards to ya, FC
Yes I would have much preferred the basket method to work. It just seems so much easier. Maybe I just need to pre shake them even more to get even more powder off prior to bake? After doing like 3 baskets of ammo with bad results I went to the stand up method. Oddly enough my oven even deformed some of the lead bullets it was so far off in temp in the beginning. I ran every one of mine through a sizing die after coating. I wasnt sure if multi powdercoats would increase the thickness too much. A few of them were too thick according to the sizing die, as it sheered some of the coating.
1997LT1Camaro - My preference is to do one coat PC...if it takes more than that, I'll just use the 45/45/10 tumble lube system, thank you (that allows lubing 1000 bullets in total time of 12 minutes of actual work - plus nice patina results and performance). We want to shoot, shoot with performance, and shoot clean - pretty bullets all globby with excess PC is adverse to that. Thin PC coatings that show all bullet detail are best. And those size with perfect driving bands in PC that are in line with same in regular cast bullets. It's all in my strategic plan for PC - I should do a video on that... I did my homework and then started out with what I wanted PC bullets to do. If any PC powder or procedure deviated from that, it was rejected. Thanks for spurring that... Best Regards, FC
I just use Elvis's method with the harbor freight powder in red. I did a few different colors for shoots and giggles but I mainly stick with the HF red since its so cheap now.
Deezildennis - That there elvis ammo method I have called the Elvis 4 / 140 system - (seems the name hasn't caught on though). And HF red is the gold standard for all HF powders, for sure. WIth HF red, I really don't need the Eastwood Ford light blue either...that blue does have some real charm though - but more expensive... Best to ya, FC
I just prefer to call it the Elvis method. To be honest with you, I wouldn't even use the tumbler. The sterilite N05 recycle marked containers have the powder on the boolits in like 30 seconds or so shaking them and then they are ready to bake. With two wire mesh draw organizers as the baking trays I can bake a fairly large amount in about a hour. take care.
Does powder coating increase the ballistic speed due to it's "non-stick" quality? Will it stand up to friction heat generated during flight with feet per second speeds up to 4,000?
Do the little imperfections hurt the accuracy? Seeing them up close, the thinner areas where they were touching something aren't as rough as I had expected. I guess once they dry it's thin enough to where variations in thickness aren't an issue.
shananagans5 - If bullets are stood on bases to go into the oven, we get perfect coating, but the time required is not warranted as performance is not affected. Even small thin areas on the driving bands are of no consequences. Would be different for rifle shooting though...we need all the help we can get at distance. Shaz, you have a fine day, FC Steve
How do you get rid of the powdercoating when you want to CAST the same bullets from RANGE SCRAP?
How do those HF Yellow - 44 cal 240gr. SWC's work as far as barrel leading goes ? I cant push my LEE mould .44cal 214 gr SWC's wheelweight alloy, traditional lubed, much past 1175fps. Without getting bad leading.....
Them some fine colors you got there Mr fortune Cookie! Funny how the different colors act so different in the same brand... Who knew! You should try that Ford light blue at least with the Quick, Shake ,Bake.. Method sometime.. One of the big benefits of that particular powder? I think they all pass the test for SHOOTING!
Do ya think the water dump has any benefit? Did they separate easier? With less damage? Great Job again !
elvis ammo - Always good to hear from ya..!! I've been telling others to do the elvis 4 /140 system...only reason I haven't done it is my vibe tumbler hasn't failed me yet...but when and if it does, it's the elvis 4 / 140 for sure...if I do that, I'm going to get a second oven so I can run one at 140 and the other at 400 and do an assembly line. One thing about doing the PC bullet dump onto concrete floor and separating the bullets while still warm is that if I'm too quick, the handling dulls the PC finish...by doing the water quench, there is none of that...and that is neat... Also, any preservation of the hardness would be good - however, when we size the bullets, we will lose any hardness gained by water quenching either from the casting or the PC anyway. To me, doesn't matter much, because I depend on my alloy for the hardness anyway. And I haven't noticed huge hardness gains by water quench in the first place... I do water quench out of the mold because there is some gain though. Have you noticed huge hardness gains by water quench? Best to ya, FC
What is the 4 /140? Thanks FC.
nrainfidelforlife - That is the powder coating technique of Elvis Ammo who advocates heating our cast bullets for 4 minutes at 140 degrees before plopping them into a hand tumbler to get the powder to stick to the bullets. Others do the pain hand tumble; some do the acetone / PC; some tumble in vibratory tumblers and get success. I have found the vibe tumbler to work without fail so far. I gave Elvis Ammo's technique the name 4 / 140 Elvis System. If our other modes don't work, we should give the 4 / 140 a try. Best Regards to ya, FC
Even though I don't powder coat. I believe that this method gives a minimum cost to production. and is easier than older methods such as seizer lubricators when Handling the Bullets one at a time with two actions needed to the finished product. and for all intensive purposes they give fine accuracy, as much as needed for handguns.
Thorsaxe777 - Why, Dave, I do believe that you are hearing the siren call from the Dark Side... ;) :) ;) FC Steve
Never got good results with HF red- static was a problem on several bullets including 230gr 300AAC BLK OUT in HF tumbler (see earlier post). Was going to send you samples but thought my issue. Need to re- address getting more static. After some delay in tests, I just ordered a few bags of Eastwood Powders. I hope I can do a good job with fast coating in a simple tub.
Will Roberts - It the HF tumbler is the one that was rubber lined, that probably is the problem - a plastic tumbler like the one on Lyman Turbos and FAs, Dillons, etc are what is needed to build up the charge to stick the powder. Your simple tub can work also, but with the vibe tumbler, you just run it and come back 15 minutes later...I have not had the no stick since I switched to the vibe tumber. Also, the Elvis Ammo 4 /140 system may work for you if hand or vibe tumbling doesn't work. I know what happens when you get the no stick - I have a little jar of badly coated bullets done with the no stick...there is no point in proceeding when the bullets are not coated with powder going into the oven. Please let me know how the Eastwood powders work for you. Best Regards, FC
Will Roberts did eastwood work?
Recently loaded 350 rounds of cast 9mm now I am working on some 44 Magnum with cast bullets.
Luke Calacci - Let me guess - Lee RN or TC 9mm. And 44 Magnum - probably the 240 grain SWC TL. Good castin' and good shootin' to ya... FC
Good information! Thanks for sharing. Have you use "Hi-Tek SuperCoat Powder?
Don Gayan Amarasinghe - No on the Hi-Tek - but from what I've heard, it is a fine PC. Might buy a couple hundred of those Hi-Teks to try out though...might find that they are really good...or not... Best to ya...FC
the blue and orange is real nice.
scott grizzle - You might enjoy the next video though...heh, heh Best to ya, FC
Hi Steve can I powder coat and shoot 223 rifle rounds is it safe as I have a supply of pure lead 224 cal rounds and I powder coat up to now slugs only please can you help cheers buddy Mike bagnall
G'day, I am new to powder coating bullets, I made a batch with Eastwood satin black, cannot shoot atm we are in lockdown, but the abrasiveness question came up from a mate, I checked and asked the supplier, the response was that it does contain Titanium Oxide. So whats the deal with the abrasiveness ? any scientific data on it ? many thanks
You've mentioned that you don't like to use it, but how does the Harbor Freight Black powder coat color come out?
Dick Tickles - Thanks for the good question. I watched every powder coat bullet video there was before I started doing it myself (now there are lots more videos), and one of the coaters mentioned that HF Black might cause some barrel wear. It may be hearsay, but with the other colors like red, yellow and white, why bother with the black. I found that the red was a piece of cake with yellow right there. The white did not do well for me with my vibratory coating. Elvis ammo gets good white with his 4 / 140 system (4 minutes at 140 degrees - then right into the manual hand tumble to get bullets to coat and works well). If I used his system, I think I would run two ovens - one at 140 and one at 400 so I wouldn't have to keep gyrating the temps...it would allow me to get that good white color, but the red and yellow are such slam dunks with the vibe tumbler...I don't need the white. Eastwood powders are more expensive (like almost 2X price) but we'll see how the rounds look - coming up next... Best to ya, FC
May I suggest? Fabricate a basket that allows the bullets to spread out in a single layer. It will reduce the clumping and increase your yield of acceptable bullets
Rogers Steven - That's actually what elvis ammo does - the one layer bullets separated basket...might just do that in my next batching...Have a great day, FC
Yesterday, I cast for the first time a bunch of .223 bullets (RCBS mold) then pc'd them in usual way for me....that is a Cool Whip container. I used a very nice powder available from Smoke420 on the Castboolits forum. Because they are so tiny, i can't stand them up like i do with the usual pistol bullets, and so they like down...some in contact with each other. They get baked then immediately tossed in quench like you do. The ones in contact with each other are very hard to separate (testament to the quality of the powder). I just don't see how baking them all together in a basket doesn't end up as just one big "popcorn ball"! What the heck am I doing wrong?
Alan Bycroft - I didn't show the big clumps I got with the vermillion as the video was getting long. When there is excess powder (not shaking the basket until no more loose powder falls through), that excess will "bridge" from one bullet to another. It is that bridging that makes the bullets not separate easily. If the excess powder is gone, the contact surface of the powder is not enough to keep the bullets from separating when thrown into the water unless there are multiple contact areas = hence the minor two bullet clumping that is easy to push apart. The problem with the 22 bullets is the ease at which the shanks "parallel" themselves allowing the difficult separation especially if excess powder is present... It is actually part of the reason I shoot jacketed bullets in my 223s and have foregone any PC there...but I have the luxury of having purchased a lifetime supply of 55 grain FMJ 22s in bulk purchases made many years ago. Plus, for my accuracy shooting, I also have big stocks of Sierra match bullets purchased in 6 box sleeves back in my High Power days...I really prefer to shoot PC cast bullets in my 30 cal milsurps, my 30/30 and 45/70 all great calibers for cast bullet shooting. In my opinion, any caliber less than 7mm is not a great caliber for cast bullets, PC or not. Sorry for the long reply... Best to ya, FC
Can you powder coat indoors?
Where can you order the Eastwood powder
Interesting comparison. The only powder coat I have is Harbor Freight yellow. I bought it based on your recommendation, with the 20% off coupon it was less than $5 if I remember correctly. I am happy with it and I don't know how long it will take to use up but I don't see myself running out in the near future. I seem to recall you saying that you do not need to harden your lead if you powder coat the bullets correctly, am I remembering correctly? I am only asking because I want to do this as frugally as possible.
Jake Outdoors - The HF yellow is pretty doggone good powder...I've always said that the HF red is the best of the HFs with the yellow not far behind. I could be very happy with the HF yellow...it's just that we PCers can't resist trying other colors eventually. And congrats on getting it with that coupon...that's spectacular price on powder. As for hardness, you really do want to have some kind of hardness control for consistency. PC has just made hardness in pistol shooting less of consideration... but I can now shoot all my BHN 10 - 12 at magnum velocities with accuracy and non leading with the PC. My range scrap is BHN 10-12 so I don't have to add any extra antimony and tin unless accuracy is improved by doing so - leading control is provided. I still want BHN 18 for my Keith bullets - good for crash through (crashing through what would be a good question). Have a great day, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Thank you for the in-depth response on my question. Next time I get to HF I will be getting the red. (I think when I went they were out and I really did not want to go back another day.) I guess ill order some lead hardener too, my lead is mostly range scrap, and random lead that I come across. As far as Keith bullets crashing through things, I think that was Keith's ideology. So you don't need a reason, just keep true to the legacy. Well that is unless you get some really tough playing cards that a standard bullet will not penetrate. LOL You also have a great day!
Jake Outdoors I mix the HF yellow and red, Now I have orange bullets!
boomer dog - I bought the Eastwood Vermilion (orange) - should have just mixed the HF red and yellow as you suggest...might still try that to compare with the vermillion... Best to ya, FC
Jake Outdoors - Nothing wrong with frugality..!! Powder coating allows us to shoot softer lead at higher velocities within reason... So if we shoot our BHN 12 (target or standard velocity hardness) - we can use that for +P+ or even light magnums with powder coating. Or if we shoot 16 - 1 alloy (BHN10) like Elmer Keith, and powder coat those bullets, we can get expansion and no leading. But we do need some hardness though...if the lead is too soft, it won't take the rifling, especially if fired on the high speed side. Good shootin' to ya, FC
looks like that powder coat will serve well
MCK - Certainly looks that way - final test will be to shoot those bullets and see the performance and ease of gun cleaning... Best Regards, FC
Holy powder, Batman! Whole pound of powder for a few bullets? Old video, obviously you were still new to PC. Nonetheless, educational and informational.
can you coat them twice?
is the eastwood 'hotcoat' ford light blue the same as what you used? one thing I do that helps me.. is to use a silicone mat and then dump the whole thing in a 5 filled with water... seems to break em up an make it easier.
Doran Maxwell - I've found that the water quench out of the oven does very little in maintaining hardness, but the bullets did separate just from the drop into the water bucket...Why not? Quenching doesn't hurt anything and also cools the bullets down immediately for handling - Nothing wrong with that...!! Best Regards, FC
yes.. I never gave it much thought. I water drop my bullets when casting and have done so since the 70's.. not because I thought it made em harder but because it was easier for me. I did notice that they tended to be a bit harder but that was never the goal and with PC I don't think hardness is much of a factor anyway. maybe not even really careful sizing to chambers. they seem to act more like jacketed bullets in that regard. anyway.. thanks for replying. The whole water drop thing has always been about fast handling but I think the drop from the oven helps to break them up a lot better. also the silicone mat is a great think IMO.
Doran Maxwell - Continued good powder coatin' to ya, FC
Learning a lot from your videos. I have found a mat that you and Elvis might like to try. "Miracle Grill Mat" Distributed by Golden West Marketing, Inc 1-800-995-8141. The powder doesn't even stick after baking.
Ken Armstrong - Miracle Grill Mat it is...Let's give that rascal a try...Best to ya, FC
what would be the advantage to standing all the bullets on their base?......that is where I like the bullets to be perfect. I get small nicks on the sides of mine all the time and it doesn't cause leading or bad accuracy. In my opinion the base is where the coating should be the best to act like a gas check. If I am wrong about any of this I would like to know about it......we are all learning this as we go, therefore it is us who are the pioneers this time much like Aylmer Kieth and Richard Lee.
I just go to the local powder coater and hand him 20 dollars to fill me a container............he came out with a 1 gallon can full ........that was last spring and I still have 3/4 can left...........I ordered John Deer green from Emerald powder coats and it was terrible.......couldn't take a static charge so I am thinking its more of a electrostatic spray specialty paint as is with most of these. So we will have to use trial and error to find the coatings that work with tumble the best.
BPCR Bigginer - Echo what you say as I'm enjoying my PC bullets with the 4 deep basket bake - the bullet shoot clean and well - plus, they don't look bad at all - kinda makes a caster happy... Best Regards to ya, FC
BPCR Bigginer - Don Denison has said he gets real good shooting out of Big Lube Bullet molds - they have the most grease capacity of all molds for extended black powder shooting. And Accurate molds makes smooth side molds just for powder coating... Nice to know that we should avoid the powders that really require electrostatic to really work well...Best to ya, FC
thank you or the info on accurate molds.....found a great mold for the 50-95 but I think I will powder coat those and then add lube for the black powder. should be interesting and I suspect I may get the best of both worlds from these loads. I will use pure lead for the mix to ensure the bullets upset in the bore.
Ummm what is the advantage to the water quench? I have never done it, I am very curious enlighten me Cookie please.
FC have you ever tried Eastwood High gloss black ?
Chad Muir - I tend to stay away from black bullets as big meplat's have a definite calming effect when viewed from the front of revolver cylinders. If bullets were black, it would appear as if the gun was not loaded at all. Even auto pistols can show the bullet if the barrel axis is in line with eyeballs. I'd prefer the loudest most bodacious colors available instead. Best to ya, FC
Could you make a video on 44 Magnum lead cast bullets and then powder coat them.
Your Friend, Luke JwR
Luke Calacci - Just did that...Casted the Lyman 245 Keith bullet and the Lee 240 grain 44 cal RN. Plus have other videos already up on other bullets and loading of same... Thanks for your interest... FC
The rangemaster must be curious of all the technicolor bullets.
Myles Nicholas - When the safety checks are made during target changes, the RMs do pause to get a look at the bullets, but they really aren't anything they haven't seen before... Have a great day, FC
Can you go ahead am Lyman lube after powder coating.
Help
Too bad the vermillion didn't turn out as nice as the ford light blue. I really like that color. On the upside, Eastwood has hundred of colors to choose from.
Doesn't elvisammo heat them a little first then shake them and then bake them ?
This method is called hot flocking in the PC world. It is good for when you have a basecoat down and your trying to spray a candy color over the basecoat. It works the same for bullets. Since we are not using an actual PC gun to spray and static charge the bullets, we can just coat and heat, or heat and coat. Elvis is using a combo of what I am talking about.
I guess the objective is the same, but heating prior and then coating is for when you cant get the powder to stick prior to baking.
Brian Meier - 1997LT1Camaro's reply is excellent and I enjoyed that also...only would add that I'd call that heat system - the Elvis 4 / 140 system - kinda like naming a new star in the night sky. I haven't used his system yet since my vibe tumbler has not failed to get powder to coat yet... but if I ever get that no-stick, you can bet that I'll give that a try. Have a great day to you both... FC
Can you do 2 coats on the bullets?
Marty Scruggs - some do three...but I only want to do one. Thin is good, thick PC is not desired. We want the bullet detail to still be clear - and 2 coats doesn't do that...Plus the time that is expended is unwarranted... Have a great day, FC
Could you show how you slug a barrel?
Dutch1722 - That's an easy one, Dutch - Already have videos up on slugging barrels in detail... Best to ya, FC
I find some colours give thicker better coverage than others of the same brand. You have to try it for yourself . Experiment.
The day will come when indoor pistol ranges will only allow powder or jacketed projectiles. Traditional cast plus lube will not be allowed. Big brother wants to keep lead fumes down for our safety. Another personnel intrusion in our lives.
NEED TO SHOW RECOVERED ROUNDS ....
B.R. Hood - Great point... For some nefarious reason, I haven't found any recovered rounds around the armor plate bullet deflectors at our range when I'm gathering range scrap...Thankfully, other PC shooters have recovered their bullets showing that PC does stay on. For me, as long as my barrels clean up fine and easy...that's where it's at... PC is amazing in that my raw bullets are over my final desired size and then the PC adds .001-.002" - when I size 'em (the lead is being sized as well as the PC), the PC is on there nicely in spite of the sizing. Best Regards, FC
THINKS
oops.
you used the worst HF color for your test.
boomer dog - The HF red is very good, but my tumbler was loaded with the yellow - and the yellow works pretty darn good so we can't go wrong with the HF red or yellow... Thanks for your comment, FC
As a relatively new subscriber, I just have to say that it's obvious to me that you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to firearms and reloading. As of last count I think I have watched 50+ videos of yours. I was actually turned into your channel after watching a few of 314299 videos on the Lee Loadall II. After watching yours I knew that reloading/bullet casting was somthing I like to try. I had all of the gear for melting lead right at home here minus the lead. So off to the range I went and gathered some 48lbs of scrap in my first sift. Not knowing a whole lot about the reloading process, I wasn't quite sure where to start, so I've gone ahead and ordered the 50th edition of the Lyman reloading manual, guess that's a good place to start as any. Keep the great videos coming, I absolutely love what you do, and can see it's a great passion of yours, great job.
avid huntr1016 - Sorry this reply is late, but whenever Google does not post a comment in my inbox, I won't see it for months. You are starting off well with the gathering of range scrap...plus the Lyman Manual...You might also build up your supply of range brass - most ranges, if you are discreet, you can pick up new factory once fired brass for free. Please keep in touch as you progress in your reloading and any casting you might do... Have a great Memorial Day, FC