this just happened to me yesterday and I was prepared to tow my truck to the shop. however I've been in the habit of coming to youtube university to see if there is a remedy that I can execute to save me money. This is very much doable, thanks for the video Danny...
Fantastic video man.......that connection on my 2005 Escalade just broke in the exact same location. Lost about 2.5 gallons of coolant (out of the 4.5 total in the system). I ended up driving another 90 seconds or so since I was close to home. On the way, I put it in neutral, shut the engine off and coasted for a good chunk of it. The temp gauge was still rising very quickly but never overheated so I am hoping that means there was enough coolant left to get an accurate reading on the temps and that I didn't cause any damage to the head gasket or heads.....looks good so far thank God I really appreciate you showing the alternative method of repairing this. I'm not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps for cooling system repairs but they are 100x better than whatever GM was trying to do with these quick connectors..... I ended up just going to O'Reilly's and getting 1/2 inch (inner diameter) heater hose. Strangely, the correct hose size is 9/16 (inner diameter) but good luck finding that. The 1/2 worked just fine, I had to gently stretch it out some needle nose pliers and ended up lubricating the inside lightly with some liquid silicone grease. It made for a fantastic fit on both the heater core and water pump connections. For anyone else out there, I would personally skip on getting a specific part replacement and just rig up your own setup. It will be much more serviceable the future and any coolant leaks for a loose hose clamp are much easier to fix than a quick connector that either works or doesn't. No need to buy the part online, just get some 1/2 heater hose, hose clamps, and liquid silicone grease. Good luck to anyone else dealing with this!
@@writtenpieceopaper1 still going strong after 3-4 months, i just used the same clamp that was on it and its given me 0 problems. though i did cut off at 1/8 to1/4 inch of the hose end that i connected directly to the metal. just so there was fresh hose on it, not weak or stretched out hose if that makes sense. just make sure you have enough length if you cut it also.
I can’t take the old quick connect off , I felt around back of it but I don’t feel anything to push down on to help remove it , should I just cut it off ?
@@TheLegendOZelda360 so there is a 6 dollar tool you can get at orileys or autozone it goes around the back of the connection and you push it toward you and it pops off Similar to a shark bite removal tool the little orange ones The release is inside of the connectors you can’t do it with your hands
@collpolp unfortunately, I have to get to the airport early af tomorrow, and none of my local auto parts stores carried it, so I ended up spending about an hour or so grinding that bitch off with a spare Sauzal blade. Fun thing about the GMC sierras is you got about an inch and a half of clearance from your firewall/ frame, and because the transmission fluid stick is right in the way on the bottom, I couldn’t even even get a Dremel in there lol. Jobs done but I appreciate the follow up. Thanks bro!
Would have to be a 1/2 hose and the connector is pushed in tightly making the opening more like 5/8ths I just don’t want to put a 1/2” hose on and it be too small for the core. Not getting enough coolant
Same issue and i cannot find the correct replacement quick connect. Ordered one from chevy dealer, if it doesn't fit, I'm running the hose exactly like you did
I was told one of my heater hoses needs to be replaced as it is showing signs of wear. Was told BOTH need to be done as it is recommended. Was quoted $500. So of course I'd like to save the money so I can simply buy one new hose, replace it only, and be just fine? Is that right?
Yes, each hose can be replaced individually. The connectors are usually all you need to replace. However, if it’s the heater core itself the dash needs to be removed to replace it.
@@mpq1969 for 2015 the lines are jointed a little differently. You may need to look at which hoses you can buy Quick disconnect line removal hack with zip tie ua-cam.com/users/shortswlEft_OTDWs?feature=share
My question I was trying to get instructions one of my horses pops out I couldn't find where it goes. The vehicle is GMC Savannah Express van it's so hard to see on the outside. What do you suggest sir? What the hell did you was showing the site from the other side, could you help please? I'm stuck on the road thank you so much.
The van may be different than the trucks listed in the video. You’ll have to find which hose is broken and see where it leads to, then get that part. It’s possible some heater hose of the same size could be used temporarily but you will need hose clams
Hi there. I have a question i have a isuzu ascender. I notist it only has one heater hose connected. But nothing in the second one i see the pipe on its own. I think where i took it they took one off. So they should have two? Right?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage This person didn't want to give me a waranty of the work. I did notist something very off when i went to pick up my isuzu. He was doing the same job to this guys truck. And i told him how much i has to pay he said nothing. And the other guy was laughing. Something sound very fishy.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you but I was actually using one of those what I ended up having to do is file the tabs on the disconnect tool until they were thin enough to actually go up inside the darn fitting. Just got it done thank you for the response much appreciated
If the compressor is turning on and the line is cold it may be the blend door. There isn’t a connection between the cold air and the heater as they are 2 different systems. Maybe a relay as well ua-cam.com/video/_pf7N2pmkpc/v-deo.htmlsi=hya4r6o8Kd17KE_p
@@luisirigoyen1347 it could be a few things, so it might be the fuse or relay or the door that changes hot and cold ua-cam.com/video/_pf7N2pmkpc/v-deo.htmlsi=puMu7ZKa8kZLVKfH
I had the same failure yesterday while changing my plugs. I barely bumper into it and it sheared off. I bought the same Dorman 800-409 repair coupler. It is not correct for this application. There is no repair piece available. It's a different style of quick connector, that's why it doesnt fit and leaks like crazy. Your repair should work at least in a pinch, or you can just buy the repair hose for a proper fix. The correct hose with the proper connector is a Dorman 626-654. That's the hose with a single connection to the water pump.
It has pressure with the water pump running (up to 30 psi) but will slightly gush when removed. They used it for ease of a quick connect when installing is my guess.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Somebody in these comments pointed out that those ends are plastic, and not designed to have hose clamps pressure on them. That's the reason for the "quick connects", they're designed for the plastic ends. If those ends break, back inside the firewall...man that would suck.
People removing the quick connect fittings do NOT do you any favors. The end that the hose clicks into is plastic. It is not meant to have tension pushing into it from a hose camp. It’s a pressure fitting that seals itself by making a clean connection end to end. You crushing it with a hose clamp is just going to break the fitting off farther back into the firewall and then your really up a a creak. Replace it with a factory GM hose or do this and sell the vehicle. Either way doing this will cause to to have more issues sooner than later. You don’t clamp things to plastic.
Noted. But I think it's sad we have to deal with plastic on this. Hoses and clamps are cheap and simple. Complicating it so you can design more plastic in a car is disappointing.
I was an hour and a half into the boonies with no service and I don’t want to pay the $450 the shop wants to take care of all of the plastic Fittings. Am I good to do this when the car breaks down so that I can drive it to the shop and have them put the quick connect on?
@@cleito001you're better off clamping off the heater hoses to bypass the core period then drive to get the parts that are correct to do the job, right
This recently happened to me. I went back to my vehicle with 2 gallons of antifreeze. In 2 pairs of vice grips filled up the reservoir clamped off the hoses. It made it home fine, and I was able to replace the park
Do yourself a favor and do away with these quick release fittings altogether just like this guy did. There is no benefit to having them on your vehicle, they will only wear out later. Install standard T's and or clamp hoses directly without quick release fittings.
Listen to this person. I am getting beyond PO'd because I can't get the quick connect off. I'm 6'1" and have above average size hands I guess, and I am literally having to climb up into the hood, lay down, and somehow fit my hands which seem to triple in size whenever I need to reach between things, and on top of this, the quick connect WILL NOT RELEASE and the hose has rotted, pliers just break it apart... But only up to the connection... This is a 2006 Tahoe
@@maryann823 That might work, however it is a small space and you would want to be careful not to cut the metal pipe inside that the connector is surrounding.
@@hummingbirdoasis6260thank you for your response. I will think long and hard before I attempt it lol. Trying to be cheap and not have it towed ugh. I usually spend more money trying to save money.
@@maryann823 Those connectors are just some kind of plastic, and probably brittle from the constant heat. You might try crushing them with a pair of pliers, they may crumble under little pressure and fall apart/away.
this just happened to me yesterday and I was prepared to tow my truck to the shop. however I've been in the habit of coming to youtube university to see if there is a remedy that I can execute to save me money. This is very much doable, thanks for the video Danny...
Fantastic video man.......that connection on my 2005 Escalade just broke in the exact same location. Lost about 2.5 gallons of coolant (out of the 4.5 total in the system).
I ended up driving another 90 seconds or so since I was close to home. On the way, I put it in neutral, shut the engine off and coasted for a good chunk of it. The temp gauge was still rising very quickly but never overheated so I am hoping that means there was enough coolant left to get an accurate reading on the temps and that I didn't cause any damage to the head gasket or heads.....looks good so far thank God
I really appreciate you showing the alternative method of repairing this. I'm not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps for cooling system repairs but they are 100x better than whatever GM was trying to do with these quick connectors.....
I ended up just going to O'Reilly's and getting 1/2 inch (inner diameter) heater hose. Strangely, the correct hose size is 9/16 (inner diameter) but good luck finding that. The 1/2 worked just fine, I had to gently stretch it out some needle nose pliers and ended up lubricating the inside lightly with some liquid silicone grease. It made for a fantastic fit on both the heater core and water pump connections.
For anyone else out there, I would personally skip on getting a specific part replacement and just rig up your own setup. It will be much more serviceable the future and any coolant leaks for a loose hose clamp are much easier to fix than a quick connector that either works or doesn't. No need to buy the part online, just get some 1/2 heater hose, hose clamps, and liquid silicone grease.
Good luck to anyone else dealing with this!
Thanks bro I broke it changing valve covers. Was scrambling. Thank you for the easy fix
Great work around from those quick disconnects which can be a pain!!!
Good job! This is the best video I have seen on this particular subject.
Thank you! This just happened to me and I have to repair it. 2014 Yukon Denali
Bubba earned a subscriber 🧍🏽♂️
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
Them connectors ain’t coming off easy you have to break the tabs
This just happened on my 2014 Suburban LTZ 5.3l money is tight so will try the striate hose method
I attached my hose straight the the pipe also so all I need is a second worm clamp at this point I don’t need to buy the actual heater hose connector?
That can typically work just fine
how did it hold up without the connector and just straight to the pipe?
@@writtenpieceopaper1 still going strong after 3-4 months, i just used the same clamp that was on it and its given me 0 problems. though i did cut off at 1/8 to1/4 inch of the hose end that i connected directly to the metal. just so there was fresh hose on it, not weak or stretched out hose if that makes sense. just make sure you have enough length if you cut it also.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage been going great thanks again !
I can’t take the old quick connect off , I felt around back of it but I don’t feel anything to push down on to help remove it , should I just cut it off ?
lol I’m looking at this video because of the same thing
Shii I’m about to just cut it off too
same problem have a GMC Sierra 2011 and it feels like there’s no snap release
@@TheLegendOZelda360 so there is a 6 dollar tool you can get at orileys or autozone it goes around the back of the connection and you push it toward you and it pops off
Similar to a shark bite removal tool the little orange ones
The release is inside of the connectors you can’t do it with your hands
@collpolp unfortunately, I have to get to the airport early af tomorrow, and none of my local auto parts stores carried it, so I ended up spending about an hour or so grinding that bitch off with a spare Sauzal blade. Fun thing about the GMC sierras is you got about an inch and a half of clearance from your firewall/ frame, and because the transmission fluid stick is right in the way on the bottom, I couldn’t even even get a Dremel in there lol.
Jobs done but I appreciate the follow up. Thanks bro!
Thank you very much that made my day man my car ma hose just sheared right off. So that’s looks simple enough thank you very much
thats some good help.👏👏 thank you very much...God Bless you.
What are the part numbers on these two hoses, since they both sheared off very easily
Would have to be a 1/2 hose and the connector is pushed in tightly making the opening more like 5/8ths
I just don’t want to put a 1/2” hose on and it be too small for the core. Not getting enough coolant
What if there are no tabs to pinch to get the old connector off?
Then you’ll use the disconnect tool ua-cam.com/video/Z_woYY9RUVM/v-deo.htmlsi=c0HY_Kmpfgaf7mBV
Que medida es la manguera?
Would a failure of that adapter cause wet floors it's dripping under hood from that area onto a coil and manifold but before I rip my dash out was jw
If its a wet floor inside the truck it may be the heater core under the dash. This line should only drip onto the garage floor
Is it a 1/2 or 5/8ths hose on the replacement?
5/8s bro
Ested es El mejor con sus esplicaciones you are the best
Muchísimas gracias. Estoy feliz que encontraste la película
Life saver thank you!!!
Same issue and i cannot find the correct replacement quick connect. Ordered one from chevy dealer, if it doesn't fit, I'm running the hose exactly like you did
@@paulbrantley535 I believe the 2000-2007 had the one shown in this video and newer had the connector with the two taps like wings
Do you guys know if the hose he used in the video would fit on a 2001 silverado
2001 should be the same
I was told one of my heater hoses needs to be replaced as it is showing signs of wear. Was told BOTH need to be done as it is recommended. Was quoted $500. So of course I'd like to save the money so I can simply buy one new hose, replace it only, and be just fine? Is that right?
Yes, each hose can be replaced individually. The connectors are usually all you need to replace. However, if it’s the heater core itself the dash needs to be removed to replace it.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the quick reply. I'll take a look myself and see if it looks like yours did. 2015 Silverado btw
@@mpq1969 for 2015 the lines are jointed a little differently. You may need to look at which hoses you can buy Quick disconnect line removal hack with zip tie
ua-cam.com/users/shortswlEft_OTDWs?feature=share
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks again. I took a pic but doesn't seem you're able to attach a photo here
What about the hose next too it please h
Thanks for the info 👊🏾
Hell yeah! Thanks man’
My question I was trying to get instructions one of my horses pops out I couldn't find where it goes. The vehicle is GMC Savannah Express van it's so hard to see on the outside. What do you suggest sir? What the hell did you was showing the site from the other side, could you help please? I'm stuck on the road thank you so much.
The van may be different than the trucks listed in the video. You’ll have to find which hose is broken and see where it leads to, then get that part. It’s possible some heater hose of the same size could be used temporarily but you will need hose clams
So do you still have heat after the fix cause mine just broke as well so I just bypassed it for now
I still have heat because it was fixed and the lines go to the heater core. If you bypass it no heat
Broke mine changing the back spark plug , leaned on the hose and it snapped
Hi there. I have a question i have a isuzu ascender. I notist it only has one heater hose connected. But nothing in the second one i see the pipe on its own. I think where i took it they took one off. So they should have two? Right?
Yes, it should go in one side to the heater core, then return back
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage This person didn't want to give me a waranty of the work. I did notist something very off when i went to pick up my isuzu. He was doing the same job to this guys truck. And i told him how much i has to pay he said nothing. And the other guy was laughing. Something sound very fishy.
Helpful video!!!
I got a 2012 silverado and there is no tabs to get the quick connect off. How the hell do I get it off
There is a line disconnect tool. Here is another video with that fitting ua-cam.com/video/Z_woYY9RUVM/v-deo.htmlsi=hk-KK5ltRJwYYb7K
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you but I was actually using one of those what I ended up having to do is file the tabs on the disconnect tool until they were thin enough to actually go up inside the darn fitting. Just got it done thank you for the response much appreciated
Will this be the same for a 2014-2015 Silverado 1500?
Very similar
Need to know I did everything right and my ac not cooling it was before now I put my heater to work and only heat comes out help
If the compressor is turning on and the line is cold it may be the blend door. There isn’t a connection between the cold air and the heater as they are 2 different systems. Maybe a relay as well ua-cam.com/video/_pf7N2pmkpc/v-deo.htmlsi=hya4r6o8Kd17KE_p
ua-cam.com/video/_hueQHeG-e4/v-deo.htmlsi=f8ku40hvev8hRx_b
What to do now
Yes is turning on and pipes are cold
@@luisirigoyen1347 it could be a few things, so it might be the fuse or relay or the door that changes hot and cold ua-cam.com/video/_pf7N2pmkpc/v-deo.htmlsi=puMu7ZKa8kZLVKfH
I had the same failure yesterday while changing my plugs. I barely bumper into it and it sheared off. I bought the same Dorman 800-409 repair coupler. It is not correct for this application. There is no repair piece available. It's a different style of quick connector, that's why it doesnt fit and leaks like crazy. Your repair should work at least in a pinch, or you can just buy the repair hose for a proper fix. The correct hose with the proper connector is a Dorman 626-654. That's the hose with a single connection to the water pump.
Perhaps yours was like this one. What year was yours? ua-cam.com/video/Z_woYY9RUVM/v-deo.htmlsi=qImJVBLogT9pX7aa
would both be the same size? did the exact same thing except both sheared off for me
Same happened to mines seem like wrong hose..
It may also have an adapter missing (or that needs to be removed).
Do you have the part number for all parts that are needed I’d would be very grateful. The auto stores here close are AutoZone and Oriely
@dannyjohnsongarage Is this line pressured? Why do you think that GM used the plastic connectors instead of just using worm clamps to begin with?
It has pressure with the water pump running (up to 30 psi) but will slightly gush when removed. They used it for ease of a quick connect when installing is my guess.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Somebody in these comments pointed out that those ends are plastic, and not designed to have hose clamps pressure on them. That's the reason for the "quick connects", they're designed for the plastic ends. If those ends break, back inside the firewall...man that would suck.
Thank you for the video. How do you get the air out of the system?
Here is a burping example ua-cam.com/video/XqyhfLk9ML8/v-deo.htmlsi=osDv_F2HiP__E3qw
This just happened to my 2002 Tahoe! I’m gonna try my hand at fixing it so I don’t have to pay out the a** for a mechanic! Thanks
doubt it right now and that male connector piece is a bitch to get off
*doing it right now
got a 2002 tahoe too 😂
Heater hose is stuck
Champion
Spot on
Thankyou
who da man 😀😀😀
People removing the quick connect fittings do NOT do you any favors. The end that the hose clicks into is plastic. It is not meant to have tension pushing into it from a hose camp. It’s a pressure fitting that seals itself by making a clean connection end to end. You crushing it with a hose clamp is just going to break the fitting off farther back into the firewall and then your really up a a creak. Replace it with a factory GM hose or do this and sell the vehicle.
Either way doing this will cause to to have more issues sooner than later. You don’t clamp things to plastic.
Noted. But I think it's sad we have to deal with plastic on this. Hoses and clamps are cheap and simple. Complicating it so you can design more plastic in a car is disappointing.
I was an hour and a half into the boonies with no service and I don’t want to pay the $450 the shop wants to take care of all of the plastic Fittings. Am I good to do this when the car breaks down so that I can drive it to the shop and have them put the quick connect on?
@@cleito001you're better off clamping off the heater hoses to bypass the core period then drive to get the parts that are correct to do the job, right
This recently happened to me. I went back to my vehicle with 2 gallons of antifreeze. In 2 pairs of vice grips filled up the reservoir clamped off the hoses. It made it home fine, and I was able to replace the park
Yeah that didn't work at all... snapped the whole T right in half
How many jugs of cool and did you need
One did it. Depends on how much you lost
Do yourself a favor and do away with these quick release fittings altogether just like this guy did. There is no benefit to having them on your vehicle, they will only wear out later. Install standard T's and or clamp hoses directly without quick release fittings.
Listen to this person. I am getting beyond PO'd because I can't get the quick connect off. I'm 6'1" and have above average size hands I guess, and I am literally having to climb up into the hood, lay down, and somehow fit my hands which seem to triple in size whenever I need to reach between things, and on top of this, the quick connect WILL NOT RELEASE and the hose has rotted, pliers just break it apart... But only up to the connection... This is a 2006 Tahoe
Why can’t you use a dremel to cut it off?
@@maryann823 That might work, however it is a small space and you would want to be careful not to cut the metal pipe inside that the connector is surrounding.
@@hummingbirdoasis6260thank you for your response. I will think long and hard before I attempt it lol. Trying to be cheap and not have it towed ugh. I usually spend more money trying to save money.
@@maryann823 Those connectors are just some kind of plastic, and probably brittle from the constant heat. You might try crushing them with a pair of pliers, they may crumble under little pressure and fall apart/away.
There is a reason these come in a 2 pack 😅 they break all the time. I keep my spare in my glovebox.
Need to burb them every 2 years or so