This exercise took me several hours, and I have tools and am no novice. One should know that I watched quite a few UA-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender. Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one). So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on. I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!! So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me. Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Sound like a pain in the Arse😅😅🤦♂️ I'm not getting good pick up speed my oil pressure gauge is Starting to stay at around 22.. I really don't know what else to do .. everything I have researched leads back to a faulty oil pressure sensor I don't have a check engine light or a low oil pressure light yet .. Truck is just not running as it should. :/
thanks for the video. This was very helpful. So I just changed mine out and found a few more helpful tips. First, a mat, blanket or carpet draped over the front of the engine to pad your body as you jam your arms back there. Next, I only removed one of the black plastic lines, that was back behind the last spark plug. An easy pop off. from there that nasty black plastic wall that prevent you from seeing and working properly, I used a hacksaw blade without the frame, just in my hand, to gently saw it from the top and the bottom, being careful not to hurt anything on the backside. After about five minutes I was able to tear off the right third of that black wall and throw it away. Then I took a flat tip screwdriver and pushed back hard on the rest of that wall and it popped off a little nub that it was fastened into, from there, I could just shove it back out of the way where it was stuck, but no longer a problem. this made the actual removal of the electrical connector and using the socket and ratchet to pull the sensor out a much easier process. For removing the screen, I took one of those little tools they give you for opening up paint can lids, the kind that doubles as a beer opener. I took the little curved tip of it and ground it down to about half the width, pointier but not sharp. then I clamped it in my vice and bet that tip about another 10° so it had more of a curve to it. That fit down inside the whole great and I kept my finger inside the beer cap loop. It popped a little screen out first try without even damaging it. after reassembling, at first, I had no results, my gauge still was pegged at zero even after I clear the codes and let it run a little while. I turn the engine off and let it sit for about 10 minutes while I watch some other videos and then turned it back on. Presto!! I now have oil pressure showing again. I guess maybe the PCM just needed some time to reset itself.
@HarmonsHarbor yikes. It took me about an hour. I don't recall the cost of the part, but it wasn't too bad. Although I did scrape the backs of my hands pretty good. It's not easy to get to, even less easy when you have big hands. The real tricky part is getting that screen part out and in.
Great video, one thing that I have discovered over the years is for removing the filter, a damn paint lid tool works perfectly and holds on to the filter, just my opinion
Why in the name of gawd do they do this kind of crap to us!? May as well put inside of the exhaust manifold! On on the space ship. I hate people that make things.
This exercise took me several hours, and I have tools and am no novice. One should know that I watched quite a few UA-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.
Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).
So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.
I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!
So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.
Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Sound like a pain in the Arse😅😅🤦♂️ I'm not getting good pick up speed my oil pressure gauge is Starting to stay at around 22.. I really don't know what else to do .. everything I have researched leads back to a faulty oil pressure sensor I don't have a check engine light or a low oil pressure light yet ..
Truck is just not running as it should. :/
Good breakdown 😉
@ 3:11 tells me the weed kept my man calm through this process that makes me cuss like a sailor everytime one comes in my shop.
thanks for the video. This was very helpful. So I just changed mine out and found a few more helpful tips. First, a mat, blanket or carpet draped over the front of the engine to pad your body as you jam your arms back there. Next, I only removed one of the black plastic lines, that was back behind the last spark plug. An easy pop off. from there that nasty black plastic wall that prevent you from seeing and working properly, I used a hacksaw blade without the frame, just in my hand, to gently saw it from the top and the bottom, being careful not to hurt anything on the backside. After about five minutes I was able to tear off the right third of that black wall and throw it away. Then I took a flat tip screwdriver and pushed back hard on the rest of that wall and it popped off a little nub that it was fastened into, from there, I could just shove it back out of the way where it was stuck, but no longer a problem. this made the actual removal of the electrical connector and using the socket and ratchet to pull the sensor out a much easier process. For removing the screen, I took one of those little tools they give you for opening up paint can lids, the kind that doubles as a beer opener. I took the little curved tip of it and ground it down to about half the width, pointier but not sharp. then I clamped it in my vice and bet that tip about another 10° so it had more of a curve to it. That fit down inside the whole great and I kept my finger inside the beer cap loop. It popped a little screen out first try without even damaging it. after reassembling, at first, I had no results, my gauge still was pegged at zero even after I clear the codes and let it run a little while. I turn the engine off and let it sit for about 10 minutes while I watch some other videos and then turned it back on. Presto!! I now have oil pressure showing again. I guess maybe the PCM just needed some time to reset itself.
You made it look easy, maybe I'll knock mine out on my day off. Thanks for sharing.
"10 minute job if you're good at it or did it before..."
So, I'm looking at 4 to 6 hours here, lol.
Just kidding, thanks for the video and tips.
Nooooo Wayyy lol
@HarmonsHarbor yikes. It took me about an hour. I don't recall the cost of the part, but it wasn't too bad. Although I did scrape the backs of my hands pretty good. It's not easy to get to, even less easy when you have big hands.
The real tricky part is getting that screen part out and in.
Thanks!
thx dude!!
Great video, one thing that I have discovered over the years is for removing the filter, a damn paint lid tool works perfectly and holds on to the filter, just my opinion
I used a bolt to screw into the old screen and pulled it out. About to tackle this battle again 😂 good video
A lag screw large enough to thread the inside of the basket filter is useful if you run into trouble pulling it up
Great video. Thank you
Thank you sr nice job
Thanks for the great video! 👍🏻
Thanks. Nice boots.
Great video!
Made it look Easy Peasy Standing on Top of The Engine 😂😂😂 well ima try it just like that YessZziirr
I cant figue out what kind if lockig tab the switch has. I cant slide it up im now trying to use a flathead screwdriver to pull the tab a little
3:50 fuel pressure????
Happy 2022 fer. 🎉 🥳
Has anyone figured out what the plastic shield in front of the sensor is for?
It’s for cutting off. Lol.
yes you just remove it... it is for nothing...
what's the torque specs for that sensor
Calibrated elbow will get it. 😂
Yup. Tight is tight 😆
TFAR specs apply here. TFAR = That Feels About Right
Has anyone just cleaned the screen versus changing the whole part out? Thanks
I have never found the screen and shoot 3 seconds if brake cleaner into it
Hahaha he didn’t show how to take it off 😂😂
That why it’s easy to do ..
I got one I’m doing today I’ll post a video
We have all pray to the car Gods at one time or another.
The butt crack is necessary for every mechanic
Why in the name of gawd do they do this kind of crap to us!? May as well put inside of the exhaust manifold! On on the space ship. I hate people that make things.
Everything went smooth until i had to take the filter out... Was pissing me off.
I saw that you can use a bolt to take it out! I hope everything went well with your change boss man
Great video so easy you can do it with a broken leg 🤣🦵
Should have showed what u did
Fuck all that, i cut a hole under the cowl. As often as they shit the bed, its hella easier
He does Yoga
might just cut that plastic bullshit cover, its not necessary
Can you start play fortnite