Stranded 6 1/2 hours from home and ANY help so I appreciate this video beyond words!!! I’m just a girl but was able to fix my car in the parking lot of the hotel and saved myself some money 💜 Thank you!!
Hello I have a 15 Escalade that was losing lots of coolant from this fitting. I tried to get it off for about an hour struggling I don’t work on cars or know anything about them. After giving up unsuccessfully I went back in the house and found your video. After watching I was able to replace the fitting in less then 15mins and now I’m back on the road. You saved me $500.00. My total investment was $26.00 Thank you so much.
Your video on finding out which coil to replace after plugs and wires installed while still having a misfire helped me out big time.Now i know why that coil went out amazes me how this video relates to my problem once again.My truck has the same leak and is leaking on the coil that i just replaced I'm planning on going back under the hood real soon as my truck is running pretty good before that coil goes out again.
I ended up taking that tool back to get the clips off. It was useless. We ended up chiseling the plastic clip off from the side one and then stretching the clips in the back by the firewall and dash and after stretching it breaking the top part of the plastic and pulling the clip part off with needle nose pliers but being careful with both not to break the metal that the clips grab onto. My daughter and son helped me they got them off that way. It took a lot longer like 2hrs getting them off and 2mins getting the replacements on. Lol 😆 shew what a job but it definitely saved me several hundred dollars at least. Thanks for the video
Great explanation! I had to change this on my stepson's burb before the rain moved in. Was trying to figure it out and saw this vid and went back out and was done in 10 minutes.
Thanks for this. I have to do it again, but I did it several years ago and I fought with the tool.But as you show those don't use the tool, I don't know how I eventually got it, but I did.I'll make sure I don't make that mistake again.Thanks.😊
Thank for the vid! glad its still up after 6 yrs! Did it myself! replaced both connectors! cost me 25 each at the auto parts store! Mechanics had quoted me between 500-550 for them to replace!! sheeeeeesh i aint paying that took me 50 bucks and about an hr of work to get it done! haha! saved myself soooooo much money! thanks again!
Great video, you did a great job explaining how to release the clips. Mine need replacing again and I remember doing it a few years ago and what a pain trying to use the tool. After watching your video showing how to release the clips I think it will be alot easier this time.
Mine were a bear to get off and had been replaced by the previous owner. They had deformed the aluminum tubes which made it harder. I sprayed the back of the fitting with pb blaster and used vise grips to rotate the fitting back and forth before pulling on the vice grips to get it off. I almost gave up on it.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to do a deep dive on my 08 Yukon xl tomorrow as mine just sprung a leak. Not sure if its just the orings on the brittle connector itself yet, but im leaning towards the orings as over the past week I've smelt something sweet with the heat on rolling into and out of work. I have the rear auxiliary heat so this should be fun.
Replaced everything 7 years ago. It was a HUGE pain. Then one of them started leaking again. The plastic had turned to MUSH in just 7 years. Couldn't get the quick connect / impossible disconnect to let go. I wound up cutting it off with a hot knife. FYI the firewall insulation is not named so because it insulates against fire, it is because it is VERY flammable! So, don't touch it with your hot knife or have a water hose on the ready. If I ever have to do this again I am not going back to quick connects I'll get some brass fittings. Thanks for the vid, the silicone worked great.
My outlet side/black side snapped, I guess just from over time?.. I was at a red light and it just blew?.... Appreciate you're time and video on this crap that I love. That her in the picture lol
@@ericpigg2689 those disconnect tools are a hassle. I used a torch and heated up a flat head screw driver to disconnect the old corroded outlet by melting the little connector clip that holds it together. After three auto part store runs and $40 spent on disconnect tools. I think that was the easiest, cheapest way with out damaging any other components trying to pry this part out. Some disconnect like in the videos and some end up being very difficult to disconnect that they don't show you. I wish i had my torch and screw driver right now✊
Thank you for making this video. Im doing the exact same job right now and am having a hell of a time. I got the new connector back on, but they leaked. If by chance you read this, any thoughts?
Man my alternator went out I took the engine cover off to unplug the harness and broke that tee I used the doorman disconnect but ended up using my fingers thanks u saved me with this video
Same thing happened to me , except I was finishing the alternator and putting the cover back on. What a terrible design!! I just replaced it for a second time yesterday. The first Dorman one was leaking at the heater core quick connect. The second one seems to be holding a seal… for now at least. If I have to do it again I’m going to bypass the connectors all together and hose camp a hose on with a 3 way tee
You best to replace both of them Ts and the hose end at the same time if one is brittle they both are just cheap insurance to keep you off the side of the road
Good video, I replaced both heard all the clicks but still leaking where t's connect to nipple sticking out of firewall. Has this occurred to anybody else? If so please share what the solution was, I'm in Texas with triple digit heat and cannot have my truck overheating, thanks for any advice. Update make sure all the gaskets are in the it's mine didn't come with the bigger gasket new from autozone.
I have a 2003 isuzu ascender. And i only see the heater hose connected. Next to it i see a tube but theres no hose into it. Im kinda thinking why and if that should be that way. But i swear seeing two there. Im going to have to take it to another mecanic. Because im even having a leak of antifreeze every time it comes to the normal heating.
mine broke on the other port which requires the tool I guess because it looks like the black part you showed. it broke while I was removing the plastic engine cover, must have been very brittle. I'm currently struggling with getting it off...
I have the same problem. I guess I'm missing a washer or oring or whatever they're called. I'm a female, so this is all very new to me. I noticed too that the new connector didn't click in place like it should and will slide right off the metal when pulled. Yeah, something's not right. Lol HELP!!!! 😫
My 2002 WSuburban has those. Broke one hose off from a quick disconnect and now I'm fighting it to take that old fitting off. Cant even turn the fitting on the tee. Squeezing the white clips does nothing. Suspect it is fused to the tee. Am in process of filing down the middle of connector to try to open it and pry it off. Pray for me!
@@AxlesGarage I managed to get it off by cutting the back plastic and swivling it off. Decide to not put on new connector, but attached hose to the existing nipple. You right, they were used to make it easy for assembly at car plant.
This is a pain in the ass I've got to go do mine today the hose connector sheered off while driving and I've got to replace the double ended connection from the firewall. Wish us luck getting it off. It's a cadillac escalade so getting into the engine is one of the hardest parts
You don't happen to have a video replacing the rear heater coolant connector or coupler. Its the one thats at the rear heater coolant line 90' piece that connects to an inlet to the rear heater hose. I saved this video cause i think thats our next job cause its make a weird noise through the center vents started with only defrost heat now its graduated to the ac. And it's not constant but i never wanna be stranded away from home like just happened to me Friday. I would love ur thoughts on how to remove the old connector and replacing with the new. Lots of videos i found but no one completely shows how its replaced and i cant find it anywhere. You do great informative finished videos. I do the studying snd my husband does the job but it works and saves alot of money. Any advice would help snd would be very appreciated
I'm not sure which you are referring to, but if I'm guessing right, it can be bought in a set. Check these link, this maybe more of what you are looking for. Just get the one for your exact application. amzn.to/3N0Z90R and amzn.to/3ON36aC
So the added hoses in the T connection is for the rear. Since I live in Miami I can do a bypass. I dont need the heater . Do you think it will be an issuse?
I don't think this is for 07, just 99-06. The 07 has that straight connect that you put on .if I get it off , I'll send the dimensions for the disconnect tool
Edit : the special tool is absolutely terrible , so just take some miniature snips to the front , and pry it till it breaks off . Also , why the hell would you put that back on , I just bought another radiator hose and directly connected to the heater core tube .
That's what I had to do, it was brittle and broke trying to get it off so I just ordered a new connector and hose. Total cost in February 2023 for both was $24.00 on eBay. I've never gotten a wrong part yet from any vendor.
Im fixing just take mine to the garage, im getting aggravated as hell trying get to it without fckn my heater core line up.. im just about to say screw it, and take it to the garage.. im sick of fooling with it.. i love my chevy, i just rebuilt the entire 5.3 liter 327 small block vortec thats in them, after they are rebuilt, they are damn good motors.. im just sick of the external parts that always break.. never have had problems out of my ford with these parts as much.. i love my suburban and will never trade it, because i have the last 2006 model that came off the assembly line.. my 2006 suburban is the very last one made, they changed it after mine came off the assembly line.. it went to the 2007 design, so i have the real actual last 2006 suburban that was made, the last one made.. there is other 2006 suburban after mine.. mine is the last.. so im keeping it.. and its in almost mint condition.. looks almost new because i took care of it.. great video.. because im having those same problems. And i dont have time to keep fooling with it.. just fixn to say screw and pay to let the garage do it.. but i definitely will be watching.. cause they ain't fooling me trying tell me my heater core line is busted just so they can make more money.. no no no no.. i will be watching, all they gotta do is change my connector out.. im so aggravated my fellas its unreal.. 😂.. gotta laugh huh..
Stranded 6 1/2 hours from home and ANY help so I appreciate this video beyond words!!! I’m just a girl but was able to fix my car in the parking lot of the hotel and saved myself some money 💜 Thank you!!
Never describe yourself as "just a girl"
Hello
I have a 15 Escalade that was losing lots of coolant from this fitting. I tried to get it off for about an hour struggling I don’t work on cars or know anything about them. After giving up unsuccessfully I went back in the house and found your video. After watching I was able to replace the fitting in less then 15mins and now I’m back on the road. You saved me $500.00. My total investment was $26.00
Thank you so much.
Glad to help
Great job, I’m working on one now, this helps, I’m taking a break because I got really frustrated with it 🤣
Your video on finding out which coil to replace after plugs and wires installed while still having a misfire helped me out big time.Now i know why that coil went out amazes me how this video relates to my problem once again.My truck has the same leak and is leaking on the coil that i just replaced I'm planning on going back under the hood real soon as my truck is running pretty good before that coil goes out again.
Glad it helped
I ended up taking that tool back to get the clips off. It was useless. We ended up chiseling the plastic clip off from the side one and then stretching the clips in the back by the firewall and dash and after stretching it breaking the top part of the plastic and pulling the clip part off with needle nose pliers but being careful with both not to break the metal that the clips grab onto. My daughter and son helped me they got them off that way. It took a lot longer like 2hrs getting them off and 2mins getting the replacements on. Lol 😆 shew what a job but it definitely saved me several hundred dollars at least. Thanks for the video
Glad to help
Those tips were very useful. I applied them on a suburban LT, they worked on a snap of the fingers, quick and easy. Thanks 🙏
Great explanation! I had to change this on my stepson's burb before the rain moved in. Was trying to figure it out and saw this vid and went back out and was done in 10 minutes.
Glad to help
Taking it off the heater core first made the job way easier, thanks good information !
Glad it helped
Thanks for this. I have to do it again, but I did it several years ago and I fought with the tool.But as you show those don't use the tool, I don't know how I eventually got it, but I did.I'll make sure I don't make that mistake again.Thanks.😊
Thank for the vid! glad its still up after 6 yrs! Did it myself! replaced both connectors! cost me 25 each at the auto parts store! Mechanics had quoted me between 500-550 for them to replace!! sheeeeeesh i aint paying that took me 50 bucks and about an hr of work to get it done! haha! saved myself soooooo much money! thanks again!
Glad it helped
Great video, you did a great job explaining how to release the clips. Mine need replacing again and I remember doing it a few years ago and what a pain trying to use the tool. After watching your video showing how to release the clips I think it will be alot easier this time.
Yep, it is very hard to get the proper release tool in there
Same here
But I'ma change both T connections because one is bad👍🏿
Mine were a bear to get off and had been replaced by the previous owner. They had deformed the aluminum tubes which made it harder. I sprayed the back of the fitting with pb blaster and used vise grips to rotate the fitting back and forth before pulling on the vice grips to get it off. I almost gave up on it.
Thanks brother I couldn't figure out how it came apart but I got her now. Much appreciated
Glad to help
I did this on my Yukon - not fun! My chest hurt for the next two days after leaning over the fender.
Hahah, I know what you mean
Use pillow like I did
I’m attempting to change mine on my Silverado; I regret eating lunch before I started
Ikr, me2
I had a step stool and mine was hurting while doing it. Shuuuuu, they place they put parts is ridiculous.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to do a deep dive on my 08 Yukon xl tomorrow as mine just sprung a leak. Not sure if its just the orings on the brittle connector itself yet, but im leaning towards the orings as over the past week I've smelt something sweet with the heat on rolling into and out of work. I have the rear auxiliary heat so this should be fun.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, what you showed really helped me change out the heater hose piece.
Glad to help
Replaced everything 7 years ago. It was a HUGE pain. Then one of them started leaking again. The plastic had turned to MUSH in just 7 years. Couldn't get the quick connect / impossible disconnect to let go. I wound up cutting it off with a hot knife. FYI the firewall insulation is not named so because it insulates against fire, it is because it is VERY flammable! So, don't touch it with your hot knife or have a water hose on the ready. If I ever have to do this again I am not going back to quick connects I'll get some brass fittings. Thanks for the vid, the silicone worked great.
Thanks for watching
@@AxlesGarage yes z. l
Good job. The silicine grease was a smart move to lube the O-rings.
In NY we lube everything
Thank you! I was getting frustrated until I found your video. Old one off and new one back on. Thanks again!!!!
Glad to help
My outlet side/black side snapped, I guess just from over time?.. I was at a red light and it just blew?.... Appreciate you're time and video on this crap that I love. That her in the picture lol
Yes, they get old and brittle over time
Same exact thing happened to me at a red light this morning!
@@ericpigg2689 those disconnect tools are a hassle. I used a torch and heated up a flat head screw driver to disconnect the old corroded outlet by melting the little connector clip that holds it together. After three auto part store runs and $40 spent on disconnect tools. I think that was the easiest, cheapest way with out damaging any other components trying to pry this part out. Some disconnect like in the videos and some end up being very difficult to disconnect that they don't show you. I wish i had my torch and screw driver right now✊
I Push back then pull forward came right off thanx 👍
Glad it helped
Thanks for all the info that you provided for us. It's greatly appreciated
Thanks, I've watched the commercials and left my like
Thank you sir
That lawnmower off and on they doin that shit on purpo😂
yep
Great video will be doing this job tomorrow
Gal 5:6 kjv , good video brother !
Thank you for making this video. Im doing the exact same job right now and am having a hell of a time. I got the new connector back on, but they leaked. If by chance you read this, any thoughts?
Having the same issue now, got the new connectors installed and the white one is still leaking
Thank you, I just changed my heater hose piece out .
Glad it helped
Man my alternator went out I took the engine cover off to unplug the harness and broke that tee I used the doorman disconnect but ended up using my fingers thanks u saved me with this video
Same thing happened to me , except I was finishing the alternator and putting the cover back on. What a terrible design!! I just replaced it for a second time yesterday. The first Dorman one was leaking at the heater core quick connect. The second one seems to be holding a seal… for now at least. If I have to do it again I’m going to bypass the connectors all together and hose camp a hose on with a 3 way tee
You best to replace both of them Ts and the hose end at the same time if one is brittle they both are just cheap insurance to keep you off the side of the road
Good tip
Good video, I replaced both heard all the clicks but still leaking where t's connect to nipple sticking out of firewall. Has this occurred to anybody else? If so please share what the solution was, I'm in Texas with triple digit heat and cannot have my truck overheating, thanks for any advice.
Update make sure all the gaskets are in the it's mine didn't come with the bigger gasket new from autozone.
Thanks buddy, this helped alot!!!
I have a 2003 isuzu ascender. And i only see the heater hose connected. Next to it i see a tube but theres no hose into it. Im kinda thinking why and if that should be that way. But i swear seeing two there. Im going to have to take it to another mecanic. Because im even having a leak of antifreeze every time it comes to the normal heating.
Great clip. Thanks! But I wonder why not replacing the fitting on the hose end while at it?
Yes, you could do that as well if it makes you more comfortable with the repair.
Thanks brotha, you just saved me $. Great video
Glad to help
What is the part called?
I’m working on the line on the left,
mine broke on the other port which requires the tool I guess because it looks like the black part you showed. it broke while I was removing the plastic engine cover, must have been very brittle. I'm currently struggling with getting it off...
Yo Im doing the exact sme thing right now, engine cover fucked it as well
I just replaced my connector, but I’m still getting a small leak. Do I need an o-ring to stop the leak?
I have the same problem. I guess I'm missing a washer or oring or whatever they're called. I'm a female, so this is all very new to me. I noticed too that the new connector didn't click in place like it should and will slide right off the metal when pulled. Yeah, something's not right. Lol
HELP!!!! 😫
Yes, it needs to click into place, there is an oring in the fitting
Is it the same for the left hose beside it cuz that’s the problem I’m having
Yes
My 2002 WSuburban has those. Broke one hose off from a quick disconnect and now I'm fighting it to take that old fitting off. Cant even turn the fitting on the tee. Squeezing the white clips does nothing. Suspect it is fused to the tee. Am in process of filing down the middle of connector to try to open it and pry it off. Pray for me!
I would guess that cutting the plastic is going to be your best bet. Good Luck
@@AxlesGarage I managed to get it off by cutting the back plastic and swivling it off. Decide to not put on new connector, but attached hose to the existing nipple. You right, they were used to make it easy for assembly at car plant.
Trying to get the black side off now. I hope my fingers strong enough.
This is a pain in the ass I've got to go do mine today the hose connector sheered off while driving and I've got to replace the double ended connection from the firewall. Wish us luck getting it off. It's a cadillac escalade so getting into the engine is one of the hardest parts
Good luck
What is this for again ?
Any tips for if you can't get the back one to lock in?
If it won't lock in, plastic locking tab is too weak from the years of heat.
@AxlesGarage anything I can add to the part to grt the new quick connect to lock?
I Broke the Connector to the Hose , i found the T connector on your link , do u know if they sell the Connector that goes into the hose ?
Yes, I believe they have a replacement hose end that uses a regular worm clamp
Thank you for your help. I'm changing mine today..
Glad to help
Awesome video. Thank you
My question is, did you have to drain your antifreeze or does it come out pouring once you disconnect? Or is it a fairly clean job?
A little comes out, not more than a cup or so
Great video, got the job done
You don't happen to have a video replacing the rear heater coolant connector or coupler. Its the one thats at the rear heater coolant line 90' piece that connects to an inlet to the rear heater hose. I saved this video cause i think thats our next job cause its make a weird noise through the center vents started with only defrost heat now its graduated to the ac. And it's not constant but i never wanna be stranded away from home like just happened to me Friday. I would love ur thoughts on how to remove the old connector and replacing with the new. Lots of videos i found but no one completely shows how its replaced and i cant find it anywhere. You do great informative finished videos. I do the studying snd my husband does the job but it works and saves alot of money. Any advice would help snd would be very appreciated
I'm not sure which you are referring to, but if I'm guessing right, it can be bought in a set. Check these link, this maybe more of what you are looking for. Just get the one for your exact application. amzn.to/3N0Z90R and amzn.to/3ON36aC
Great video I need to do the same job on my Tahoe…
You can do it!
Is it the same T connection for the tube on the left ?if your facing the engine
No. It is different. Black one. Slight offset from a 90 degree.
Thanks for the help with the info
Glad to help
Man you saved me learned a lot quick
Thanks for the details
Glad to help
My heater core connection is still leaking Did I put it on right?
If it's still leaking, the replacement end might have been defective. It is not uncommon to get bad new parts right out of the box these days.
So the added hoses in the T connection is for the rear. Since I live in Miami I can do a bypass. I dont need the heater . Do you think it will be an issuse?
You can just loop the hoses together and bypass without issue.
Do you have to drain the coolant ?
No
Thanks for the info, it helped alot!
very nice music in the intro
I replaced the t and now every time I turn on the ac the check engine turns on😫😫😫
Just take all your coolers and core support out makes it much easier to pull them off
Thanks for the tip
How you change the connector on the end of the hose(Black) do you apply a wire clamp to hold it in place
Yes, held in with hose clamp
What is the hose on the firewall
Perfect
How do u replace the connecter to which the connecter which you connected the hose to?
I have no idea what your question is
Thank u great job great video I learned this from you now I'm about to replace mine🙂
Glad to help
Best video sir
Thank you
I used a 90 degree needle nose....way more leverage than fingers.
Great tip
So what’s the actual name of the part?
very good video. Thanks but I think I saw it a little late. I also had a fight with those hoses and ended up getting scratches on my hands and arms.
Thanks bro good info .
No problem 👍
Awesome video👍
Thanks for Watching
I used my hands to get off the one part and just broke the other off with a screw driver it took me less then ten min
Great
I need to back flush my heater core on my 2001 Tahoe. Can I just remove the hose to do that or do I have to take off the whole plastic T part?
just remove the hose the easy way
Thanks
Glad to help
Great vidoe thank you 🙏
I don't think this is for 07, just 99-06. The 07 has that straight connect that you put on .if I get it off , I'll send the dimensions for the disconnect tool
Edit : the special tool is absolutely terrible , so just take some miniature snips to the front , and pry it till it breaks off . Also , why the hell would you put that back on , I just bought another radiator hose and directly connected to the heater core tube .
My yukon is steaming its tail off lol 😆 wife is embarrassed thanks a ton itll be fixed in a hour
Thanks!
You bet!
excellent video this is exactly to the tee what i was looking for thankyou
Glad I could help
I agree, great video
Great Information Thanks
Glad to help
Thank you thank you thank you thank you
Good job man
Thank you
Good job
Thanks for watching
Best way to get it off is just crush it crush the plastic away
That's definitely an option lots of people use.
That's what I had to do, it was brittle and broke trying to get it off so I just ordered a new connector and hose. Total cost in February 2023 for both was $24.00 on eBay. I've never gotten a wrong part yet from any vendor.
2009 Yukon is hard to remove
Yep, the later body style makes it a harder reach, but same fittings.
Just did mine... It's easy if you push the hose in first then pull.. found out the hard way 😆
Good tip thanks
Part number 800-414cd thank me later
What is the part number pls?
Black Heater Hose Connector: amzn.to/3vrHW5e
White Heater Hose Connector: amzn.to/3ue5lG0
In the description
Depending on how brittle, that doesn't always work. Anyhow, i destroy them & get them off more times than it works the proper way. Its a science lol
The only thing that will work is wd40 or any other lubricant and needle nose pliers. Yes it will be slippery but trust me you want it to be slippery
2008 Tahoe this is impossible
Yes it tough to get to them
Im fixing just take mine to the garage, im getting aggravated as hell trying get to it without fckn my heater core line up.. im just about to say screw it, and take it to the garage.. im sick of fooling with it.. i love my chevy, i just rebuilt the entire 5.3 liter 327 small block vortec thats in them, after they are rebuilt, they are damn good motors.. im just sick of the external parts that always break.. never have had problems out of my ford with these parts as much.. i love my suburban and will never trade it, because i have the last 2006 model that came off the assembly line.. my 2006 suburban is the very last one made, they changed it after mine came off the assembly line.. it went to the 2007 design, so i have the real actual last 2006 suburban that was made, the last one made.. there is other 2006 suburban after mine.. mine is the last.. so im keeping it.. and its in almost mint condition.. looks almost new because i took care of it.. great video.. because im having those same problems. And i dont have time to keep fooling with it.. just fixn to say screw and pay to let the garage do it.. but i definitely will be watching.. cause they ain't fooling me trying tell me my heater core line is busted just so they can make more money.. no no no no.. i will be watching, all they gotta do is change my connector out.. im so aggravated my fellas its unreal.. 😂.. gotta laugh huh..
Give it a shot, you can do it
what a stupid idea from gm. i dont know of one person who works on cars complaining how we need more plastic bs to replace hose clamps. nice job gm.
They are a quick Connect, and slow disconnect
Why use them anyway, they are not quick and it is a breaking point i have learned
Thanks!
Glad to help
Wat is the part number?
Black Heater Hose Connector: amzn.to/3vrHW5e
White Heater Hose Connector: amzn.to/3ue5lG0
Good show I try the tool and did not work I used my fingers like yous like you said and it work THANKS KNUCKLES 🙂