How to change front brake pads and discs (rotors) for Audi A6 (C6 4F)
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2025
- This video shows how easy it is to change front brake pads and discs (rotors) for Audi A6, C6 chassis.
Here is full step by step description with images, also available in printer friendly PDF format:
www.wheelsandm...
Here's link to the video of How to replace REAR pads and discs:
• How to replace REAR br...
If you are looking for brake caliper rewind tool, please check this eBay page, that gives you lots of choices for very good price:
rover.ebay.com...
If you are looking for other tools to perform this task, please check out this eBay page:
rover.ebay.com...
For more info about this car, please visit www.WheelsAndMotors.com and look for Audi A6 in our free online car repair and servicing manuals collection.
Brother thank you, 10 years on, And this helps so much!
You're welcome 😊 👍
@wawayltd just bought my Allroad 02 tonight, and it needs new brakes done, and your video makes it so easy! 😊
I hope brakes are the same type on your Allroad.
Thank you for this video. Audi main dealer Swindon quoted me £485 for new discs and pads - Front only today. I bought the parts from Eurocarparts for £130 and will give this a go tomorrow using your video as a helpful guide.
Thanks :) Glad if it helps!
You can also print out full description from my website..
Your videos are the clearest car maintenance videos on UA-cam. Keep it up.
Thank you! I'm trying :)
You are a born instructor. A superb video in every way.
This is possibly the best video I found to change my breaks. Cheers mate all the way from the States!
Thanks Juan 👍
To be honest you do not do good job............you save our lifes. How many times your video save me lots of money. Absolutely great. Best tutorials on YT. Well done.
Thanks Marcin!
To be honest, this particular video could be better, I should use copper grease in some places for perfection.
I was young and innocent back then 😆
@@wawayltd no one is perfect. I used copper grease anyway. Your videos are best on you tube. Last time i changed tensioner and auxiliary belt. Thanks to your tutorial. All the best. Once again massive thanks.
Thanks for doing this video! Also I concur-the special jack mover is a great tool to have around. 10/10. I could not live without mine. Well worth the 9 month wait.
My jack mover is 10 now 🙂
Time is running..
Congrats my friend. Soon he will be doing brake jobs while you relax and supervise! As it was meant to be.
Yeah, just few upgrades away 😁
Thanks very much for this and many other Audi A6 videos you have posted, you have helped me save a fortune in Audi bills. Thanks again.
You're very welcome, David :) Shame I don't have this car anymore, so can't make any new videos... But I have 2 VW's, that are relatives to Audi anyway.
Thank you sir, will be changing my breaks and rotors this wknd. Highly appreciated
You're very welcome 😊
I love this guy, makes things so simple
Thanks 👍 They are simple, it's not me making them 😉
Thank you for the perfect video on how to.. truly appreciate. Great job! 🙌🏽
Glad that it still helps after all these years ✨️
I wished I would of watched this earlier.....I've just booked my car in the garage in the morning for new discs and pads for the same model car as you have here....after watching this great vid I think I could Easley have done them myself 😞......great vid by the way 👍
You’re a great guy! And a lovely family also. Suggestion - when the rotors don’t need to be turn down or machined, I clean the rotor with brake cleaner and then use a fine emery cloth to deglaze the rotor. Normal glazing with brake use will be cleaned away. Thanks for all your help. I’m a fan and a subscriber
Thank you for your comment Scott. There are lots of things that could be improved about that video - cleaning and lubricating some bits (like pins).. That was one of my first videos, I wasn't that experienced.
just followed this step by step. Worked great. Apart from my 57 plate clip is a little different on the Caliper. You can't remove it. but can release the pad
Is clip part of the pad?
WheelsAndMotors No no. so where as you took it out at the start. It's welded into the Caliper now. I'll try get a picture when I can
Great job. Great jack mover! Everyone should have one haha
Thanks for sharing.
Great thanks! Not only for this but for all your instructions!
Another great video. Already got the parts and will do it this Saturday.
Thanks :)
By the way, I've done this video some time ago. Since then I've done few more brakes, and regarding this video, I would say that some lubrication can be used on pins, on piston etc.
Thanks
Very helpful video, and the little guy was good too moving things around !
Couldn't do without his help :)
Bruv...best tutorial ever! Thank you very much!
You're very welcome 👍
Your videos are very good, thank you for doing this. Can I just point out that the sensor wire (at 20:30s) should go through the metal hoop (hydraulic line) for protection. That's how mine were routed when I took them off. All the best.
Thanks for pointing to that! :) I didn't think about it...
Excellent videos! Very detailed and very informative
Excellent video my man, very well explained, good detail. Helped a lot.
Make more videos, you are a good teacher.
Another great movie about A6. You should open your own Service Garage in Bristol 😁
Thanks again
You're welcome 👍I'm not as clever as I pretend to be in my videos 😉
Great detail and super helpful narrative! Thank you for helping us do-it-yourself types.
Thanks Jim :)
Good video. I like your sincere and friendly approach.
Thank you :)
Thanks for this video. I can see clearly now how to change them..
👏🏻👍🏻
You're welcome 👍
nice informative video, i dont understand why you didnt use any lubricant under the rubber seal when pushing the caliper piston back, not needed on front calipers but i would recomend this on the rubber dust seal so it doesnt split, also copper crease on the caliper bolts just to make life easier when replacing next time around.
I made that video some time ago, only when I just started DIYing, My recent videos contain more useful info, including lubrication and torque values etc.
Such a life saver!! Good information and visual when it was needed!
Thank you :) Glad if it helps.
Thanks brother for the video. Do more videos about Audi. Audi dealership are so rip off they charge heck lot of money.
You're very welcome 👍 At the moment I don't have Audi, but I'll keep doing my best..
you saved me so many times now .cheers buddy
You're very welcome :)
Very helpful, thanks a lot. Doing my pads tomorrow.
Great video very thorough and easy to follow thankyou
Thanks Lee :)
Well done mate. This Will Help alot. Excellent vídeo. Thank you. Very clear and all steps are very clear.
Thanks Altaf :)
Very informative video, good camera work and good explanations as well. Doing mine tomorrow. More videos when you can please.
Excellent.... very detailed and very well explained.
second video I've followed from you, fantastic stuff
Thank you :)
Cool Thanks! Great video, Good explanation, GREAT VIDEO SHOTS, and Nice helper at the end. THANK YOU GUYS!
good and clear video!!
for longer life of your new brakepad, you should clean an put some lube on the contact points of the pads from the brake holder and the bolts !!(not brake pads and disk)!!
Sven Dittmann Thanks for your comment. I'm using copper grease for that now, like I did on my new car: ua-cam.com/video/QDMytNXdp-E/v-deo.html
You forgot to lubricate the caliper slides (bolts) and pad slides. This will cause your pads to not disengage as efficiently as they should and will wear considerably faster.Otherwise great video. Thanks!
+Adam Thomaes Yes, you're right - I should use copper grease. That was my very first brake video - I use grease on my other videos.. Lubrication - is the way forward :)) Thank you!
Excellent video and cool style! Ratings to your jack mover! Keep up the good work mate! (Both of you!)
Good video easy to understand.
superb video. so easy to understand. Thank you very much.
You're welcome :)
Nice explain .....helpful for us
Thanks
Some great videos, even as an ex mechanic you have saved me time and hassle. Not sure about the special jack moving tool though. I have 3 of these and they are very expensive to maintain.
Thanks :) Yes, they are expensive to maintain, and as older they get they fail to move jacks.. or any tools.. or anything you ask them :)))
Thank you boss man that was very help because i got a 2000 Audi A6 & was i wondering how to do it &i didnt wont to screw up Lol
Great vidéo, well done.
thanks for sharing
You're welcome 👍
wow great video man super helpful keep making vid's like this one!!!
Thank you :)
Just a heads up my brakes didn't look like this and I have a 2005 Audi A6. There are four star nuts on the back. Instead of the wire thing it has this clip that can fly out. Use a vice grip around both the brake and the spring to contain it and avoid injury when you free it loose.
Thank you! Great information and with a lot of humour! Keep it up!
You're very welcome:) There will be more.
Thanks you matey helped me loads. hope to see more video in the future
You're very welcome :)
thanks, very nice step by step video !
Thanks :)
another great and informative video, thanks for sharing your knowledge about Audi's car.
You're very welcome :) Join our "Audi drivers" group at the website - there's much more stuff...
Thanks for this.. v helpful
You're welcome 😊
Tkanks , from Portugal.
Você é muito bem-vindo :)
"For money muah hahaha" good video man. Thank you.
The re-wind tool is not designed for the front calipers - its designed to wind in the rear calipers like on the A6 C5 (non-electric) where the calliper had a ratchet inside to take up the slack - a part of the hand brake mechanism on that model. You needed the tool on those pistons to rotate the psiton back in whilst applying positive pressure - hence that tool. For the front calipers you can just push in the piston (no rotation required) with a G clamp or similar.
By now I've got few more tools for brakes, but back then it did the job, I didn't have G-clamp :) And I agree that with this one from this video would really awkward to push rear pistons that have electronic parking brake, because after "telling" car to rewind them they just need to be pushed in, and with those pins that meant to turn piston (like for normal cable hand brake) would be pretty much impossible. That Audi from video has gone about 3 years ago. Now I drive Sharan, and I believe that my videos for that car are a bit more informative..
Thx my good friend👍🏽
You're very welcome 🙂👍
Very informative video, thank you for this.
You're welcome Joakim :)
Great vid!
Thanks 😊
awesome video ,very helpful
+me silva Thank you :)
Good video easy to understand., thank you
Nice one bro! Very helpful! Thanks! 😊
Mihai - you're very welcome 👍
do you do 1 for rear pads plz
Excellent video
is it any different for the rear tires? Do you have any videos about the electronic brakes and what to do?
I don't have for this car, but have something very similar, here's the link:
ua-cam.com/video/AzM2wHf5lvM/v-deo.html
Very helpful, thanks 👍👍👍
You're very welcome :)
Thanks man! Great video!
You're welcome :)
👍👍👍 thanks
You're welcome 😊
excellent video...great job!
+Charles Schoolfield Thank you :)
very good tutorial
Thank you Man
Thank you sir, you have my like and subscribe!
when he was trying to loosen the caliper bolts, i said out loud "wrong way". then when he realized and tried the correct direction it was extra tight. and i said out loud " its because you just tightened it" lol
It's all your fault 😁
thank you
Алексей З Пожалуйста :)
Good video man thumbs up
nice video mate thankx
+g bak Thanks :)
hi!
does the same principle apply for the back discs and pads as well please?
+Gyomorei Peter It is similar, but with the difference, that you'll need a diagnostics device to "tell" the car to rewind electronic parking brake back. Alternatively, you can remove parking brake motors, and rewind brakes manually, then after all it should adjust itself. However, I've never tried this alternative way - I have a device.
Good day Sir, is this the same process with an Audi tt Mk1? Thank you sir
Can be. Do brakes look the same?
great video! I think I will try and change the rear pads in my audi A8 D2 myself now and save money rather than taking it to the stealers
I hope D2 doesn't have electronic parking brake.. So far, I've got only one video about rear brakes, and that is VW Golf Mk4: ua-cam.com/video/kdx1BpiKb9I/v-deo.html
+WheelsAndMotors - Hi, are you saying that an A6/A8 2006-11...rear brake (and disc) change is more complicated and difficult because of the auto/electric handbrake? Thanks
It's not too difficult, but yes - you need a diagnostics software - I have little diagnostics device Foxwell NT500. I used it for my previous car (Audi A6) and it works on my new 2012 VW Sharan.
With diagnostics software it's easy - select option to open/rewind parking brake, car winds them back as far as they go, you take calipers off. But, even from that position you have to push them back with that tool. Unlike pistons on the front, not only they need to be pressed in, but also turned at the same time. The rest is pretty much the same. Once it's done, select option to close parking brake.
If you don't have anything to "tell" your car to unwind and wind calipers... Then I don't have much experience. I know that garages who didn't have a computer used to refuse to change pads for my Audi.
The motor for caliper can be removed (2 screws on sides), then you can rewind manually with allen key. Also I've seen a video on UA-cam, when guy disconnected plug and applied 12 Volts to wind the motor - polarity changes direction. Once you've change the brakes, electronic parking brake should adjust itself. However, I have no practical experience with any of that, so I can't say how easy or safe it is to do it without computer.
Great video
Funny video! Nice job bro
Thanks 👍
good video, tip from personal experience! Remove the hard line that goes from the rubber break hose to the caliper itself, and drain the caliper. makes it a lot easier to replace break pads and install new ones, because the piston(s) in the caliper keep their tension if you do not drain the fluid. You can do it either way but its heaps easier the way I explained. Please do not flush you break lines completely, unless that is what you are trying to do. I'm saying there is a space inside the caliper that holds brake fluid that keep the pistons inside the caliper pushed out as your old pads thin from years of breaking. So you just release the pressure inside of the caliper pushing out the pistons by draining the caliper itself. Remember your bucket. I would however recommend you just flush the entire system out and replace the nasty old fluid with clean juice. when in Rome.... flush your system.
Would it be easier instead of disconnecting brake line, open that little drain plug on a caliper?
if you open the brake valve you would need to completely drain the reservoir to push pistons in, if you simply disconnect the hard line with reservoir cap still on you wont lose that much while u push the pistons back into place then reconnect hard line, after that all you need to do is bleed the brakes to refill caliper then top it off. the hard line connected will just keep brake fluid in the caliper and pushing in the pistons would be require a lot more force to push in and may cause you to push air into the lines. disconnecting the hard line releasing this pressure is easier and since it is a direct supply point in the caliper you get out sediment that built up inside of the piston chamber. when you do it this way it works like the piston throwing up all the bad stuff inside. I'm sure you could do it the other way you explain, but from personal experience, I get better results for my car, and may differ from your experience and car.
can you tell me all the tools that you use
Here's full description of this job and tools:
wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=15
once again brilliant video very useful👍
question is... my pads thread are more then a half but I get annoying warning sound saying I need to change pads. Can they be disconnected anyhow to avoid beeping? thanks in advance
ps: it looks easy change but I dont have that tool to push pistons back. ty
Normally it doesn't get to the sensor, unless pads are getting low. I believe, it's possible disconnect sensors plugs to stop warning sign, but I wouldn't recommend that, because front brakes take the most and you really need to be sure that they are always ok. Change the pads maybe? Put something normal, that won't beep at you half way through..
Tool like the one in the video is available in many shops. But, if you go to eBay, you can find wider variety for way lower price.
+WheelsAndMotors thanks for the speedy replay, what the tool is called? thanks
Search eBay for - brake caliper rewind tool
+WheelsAndMotors 👍👍
No worries :)
Great, added to my favorite for later :-)
Snadard work. Some comments: 1. get some sort of battery powered torque screwdriver or drill. they put out 220 or more Nm, and really help a lot in simple straight screw locations, like your wheel screws. 2. get yourself a decent hydraulic shop jack. you will be amazed how much it does. 3. make pads for not ruining the underbody of the car out of old tires. cut out two pieces of approx. 10x15 cms from and old tire, glue them together, and then cut a longitudinal groove in one of them for the lower body panel seam that the jack is "supposed" to go on. Any jack that goes on that seam ruins any paint or rubber or plastic, welcoming corrosion. 4. you might want to use a pressure washer to wash the wheel well before the job and after removing the wheel. after letting it dry in the sun for an hour (you can do both wheels if you have two normal shop jacks, or at least one normal jack and one jack stand), let the both wheel wells get dry, and have much cleaner space to work with. This way no dirt will get into low-pad alarm connections, and elsewhere. 5. your brake rotor needs to be replaced. it has a clearly distinctive edge on the outer diameter. 6. use copper-based heat resistant grease to grease all the runners, guides and movable parts in and around the caliper. 7. removove any grease from the rotor, using acetone and of course before contacting the rotor with brake pads. 8. in some cases when the outer groove on the rotor is more pronounced, you need to push back the piston before removing the calipaer - use a large flat screwdriver or a small crawbar in the back of the caliper, of course open the brake fluid reservoir in advance.
and yeah, for gods sake - grease the lug bolts, or wheel screws. this way you will prevent rust and damaged thread problems
Wow! Thanks for this comment, Juris :) Yeah, I admit that job was pretty far from perfection - I should change the title to "Brake pads - that will do" :)) Back in a days when I made this video, I just started to try DIY'ing on my car. I do say now to anyone who comments on this video, that they should use some lubrication on pins and back of brake pads, use some brake and clutch cleaner for the disc... (Funny enough, after doing quite a few brakes, I only recently discovered how to take those pins out for lubrication - I might make a special video about that).
The car in the video has gone just over 2 years ago and 409K miles. Now I have VW Sharan.. and the garage.. and proper hydraulic jack.. and lots of extra tools.
I really appreciate the effort you have put in your comment - I wish I could figure out motivation for people like you to post at my website, because if it's only me doing it - it's not gonna go far :(
409 miles? you mean kms? in either way that's great. just got myself a 2008 allroad with original 170 k kms, and am always happy to... teach someone a lesson of how to do things properly :) Anyway, i guess VAG is one of the greatest car manufacturers, and seeing an audi going up to over 400 000 ... probably kms, is one hell of a pleasant thing.
409K miles = 409.000 miles = 658.000km :) I'm a taxi driver and work 7 days a week...
impressive. not the working part, but the reliability of the audi. great stuff!
TOP!!!!!💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Thanks :)
Hello! Do you know the torque specs of those bolts?
25Nm for caliper pins.
very good 1
I love the specialist jack moving tool...! Think I might ask my girlfriend for one for Christmas... =o)
About time to place the order now, if you want it for Christmas ;)
Haha, like the jack mover tool ;-)
verry good video 10x
Thanks :)
good guy!
Great explanations! Great video... but next time, wearing gloves would be ideal ☺️ gotta keep them hands clean
Will do, thanks :)
👍👍👍
Thanks George 😊
+Alex Haws (nedge2k) My bad.. I was young and inexperienced ;)
nine month preorder... man, that's cruel! :) :)
But it's well worth the wait - I would never swap my "jack mover tool" for any other :)
I have 5 of those jack moving tools 😂😂😂
😁 You can open a dealership now 👍
Er...no copper grease on the bolts?!
Human torque wrench lol very funny
That's skill :)))