Keli, I tackled the front brake pad and rotor replacement job today. I don't think I would have attempted this prior to following your example. It wasn't too bad at all. You've given many of us the courage to tackle working on our great cars. Thanks.
thanks brother, i just did it myself after watching your video! Saved over $600 by doing myself, instead of cutting day of work to get the car to service place...
Hello again... Your video on the cam girdle helped me last year when I had a broken intake sprin valve spring. The car has run like a champ since... 193,000 miles and I still feel great driving it. It's time to do brakes, so Google brought me to this video. Thanks again. I was thinking I needed a Torx 70, but after watching your video it was obvious to leave them alone. I'm doing rotors and pads. For anyone doing this job and changing the rotors, you must replace the 21mm bolts that attach the caliper mount to the steering knuckle. They are torque to yield bolts and are unsafe to reuse. I watched some other videos and nobody mentioned replacing them. They didn't even torque them correctly. Big mistake. I had a mounting bolt loosen and fall out and the whole brake was hanging on by one bolt. Whoever did the brakes for the guy who sold the car to me did it wrong. Luckily I heard the noise and figured it out before the other bolt fell out (it was loosening fast). Also, as I mentioned to another commenter... I attach a hose to the bleeder valve and open the valve, and just hand pressure can push the piston in. Little or no air gets in, but after I bleed the brakes anyway so if air does get in, it's pushed out. I always use this method and it avoids the issue of pushing nasty old fluid up into the lines. Thanks again. You make great videos.
I appreciate your positive feedback and you sharing your experience and your thoughts. I hope it will be helpful to others out there. I did replace the brake discs once in the past and I made sure to replace all 3 bolts on each side. A must. I did not have a torque wrench then so I probably overtorqued the bracket for sure. Won't happen again now that I have torque wrenches.
@@Kokouvia I mistakenly hit the down thumb... Hope you didn't get a notice about that 😀. Apparently the front caliper to knuckle bolts are not torque to yield, but are 196 NM. Audi just recommends replacement. I also found that I could get the rear rotors out and new ones in without removing the bracket... it's a tight fit but the tutor just squeezes out, so no replacement bolts necessary. Btw, I've used a digital suitcase scale to simulate a torque wrench sometimes when I can't get the torque wrench in a tight location. It is quite accurate when I tested it, comparing to a torque wrench in the open. Thanks again!
@@ijdad99 No I did not get a notice for the thumb down. You are fine 😅 I haven't done the rear yet. It is good to know it is possible to do the rear rotors without having to remove the brackets. Thanks again for sharing 👍🏾
I just push with my hands. But that only works if you attach a tube to the bleeder screw and open the valve a bit to drain into a catch jar. I use this method whenever I do brakes so as to not push the nasty brake fluid into the lines. Later, I flush with new brake fluid anyway, so there's no air in the lines. Works really well.
That is right. The reason is I deactivated the parking brakes so the rear wheels rolled a bit. With the parking brakes activated you should be fine. But it is always good to put the car on jack stands. I did not have jack stands then so I only placed the wheel under the car just in case 😅
My friend , you are " The Best of the Best "
Great DIY video - every detail, perfectly clear images, and no superflouos blah blah messing with my ADD. Made easy work of the job!! Big thank you!!!
Your video helped my father and I get the job done. Thank you because the shop said 1000.
I am glad the video was helpful 👍🏾
👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽man I feel ya pain on that ☝️
Keli, I tackled the front brake pad and rotor replacement job today. I don't think I would have attempted this prior to following your example. It wasn't too bad at all. You've given many of us the courage to tackle working on our great cars. Thanks.
Well done Dan! 👍🏽
you make it so easy bro I fixed half of my Audi just watching your videos Thanks A LOTTTTTT..
I appreciate the feedback! :)
Works perfect on my Allroad 4.2 c6 with same brakes , thanks a lot dude ! No bothering bla bla bla just simple clear images!
Glad it helped
Before ordering my discs and pads I first watched your video. I am now confidend I can do this myself. Thanks from the Netherlands !
You are welcome 👍🏾 😊
You’ve helped so many by making these videos of doing great jobs on this car.
Most helpful video I’ve seen in ages bless you sir
The best videos!!!! Thank you from CANADA 🇨🇦
I appreciate 🙂
thanks brother, i just did it myself after watching your video! Saved over $600 by doing myself, instead of cutting day of work to get the car to service place...
Hello again... Your video on the cam girdle helped me last year when I had a broken intake sprin valve spring. The car has run like a champ since... 193,000 miles and I still feel great driving it.
It's time to do brakes, so Google brought me to this video. Thanks again. I was thinking I needed a Torx 70, but after watching your video it was obvious to leave them alone.
I'm doing rotors and pads. For anyone doing this job and changing the rotors, you must replace the 21mm bolts that attach the caliper mount to the steering knuckle. They are torque to yield bolts and are unsafe to reuse. I watched some other videos and nobody mentioned replacing them. They didn't even torque them correctly. Big mistake. I had a mounting bolt loosen and fall out and the whole brake was hanging on by one bolt. Whoever did the brakes for the guy who sold the car to me did it wrong. Luckily I heard the noise and figured it out before the other bolt fell out (it was loosening fast).
Also, as I mentioned to another commenter... I attach a hose to the bleeder valve and open the valve, and just hand pressure can push the piston in. Little or no air gets in, but after I bleed the brakes anyway so if air does get in, it's pushed out. I always use this method and it avoids the issue of pushing nasty old fluid up into the lines.
Thanks again. You make great videos.
I appreciate your positive feedback and you sharing your experience and your thoughts. I hope it will be helpful to others out there. I did replace the brake discs once in the past and I made sure to replace all 3 bolts on each side. A must. I did not have a torque wrench then so I probably overtorqued the bracket for sure. Won't happen again now that I have torque wrenches.
@@Kokouvia I mistakenly hit the down thumb... Hope you didn't get a notice about that 😀. Apparently the front caliper to knuckle bolts are not torque to yield, but are 196 NM. Audi just recommends replacement. I also found that I could get the rear rotors out and new ones in without removing the bracket... it's a tight fit but the tutor just squeezes out, so no replacement bolts necessary.
Btw, I've used a digital suitcase scale to simulate a torque wrench sometimes when I can't get the torque wrench in a tight location. It is quite accurate when I tested it, comparing to a torque wrench in the open.
Thanks again!
@@ijdad99 No I did not get a notice for the thumb down. You are fine 😅
I haven't done the rear yet. It is good to know it is possible to do the rear rotors without having to remove the brackets. Thanks again for sharing 👍🏾
Thanks for the video 🇲🇽🇲🇽🇲🇽💯💯💯. Great job. It helped me a lot. God bless you
Cool! Thanks for the feedback 👍🏾
man i wish my a6 couldve lived where u are, my brake calibre is so rusted that u cant see the audi logo on it. Im so glad for u precious baby
And i love your afrobeat music, nice vibes and nice videos
@@Nour-hh7ok Thanks man! I am lucky it does not snow here so no salt on the roads.
Is 1 of the best!!! I hope his videos will get more views he really deserve it. Verry nice my friend, as always you are a Pro!
I appreciate my friend ❤
Full professional ! . The best video i every seean!
Thank you!
1:43 Oh man, your wheel chocks are just amazing! :)
Haha. They are made of wood. Tough and cheap 😁
Excellent video. Your video help me to find out that I was missing that retaining clip for the caliper. Keep up with your videos. ✌️😎
Awesome! I am glad the video was helpful 😃
Very nice. I’ve done this on my A6 a couple times. Watched to remind me. Thank you!
Any time!
Good job man instructions are clear
Thanks!
merci mec ça va m'aider de fou ta video thanks
C'est cool 👍🏾
Hi man I’m trying to do the front brakes on my 07 Audi A6 4.2 I just wanted to know what that tool is called that your using too push at 19:00 minute
Hello! It is called Caliper Piston Compressor Tool. The part number of the one I used is scwbk-510.
I just push with my hands. But that only works if you attach a tube to the bleeder screw and open the valve a bit to drain into a catch jar. I use this method whenever I do brakes so as to not push the nasty brake fluid into the lines. Later, I flush with new brake fluid anyway, so there's no air in the lines. Works really well.
Thanks for the video it helped alot.
You are welcome 😊
Thanks for this, very helpful.
You are welcome 👍🏽
Great Job, good DIYer...coolest car!
good job
Good work
good apart from when it nearly fell off the jack when you turned steering
That is right. The reason is I deactivated the parking brakes so the rear wheels rolled a bit. With the parking brakes activated you should be fine. But it is always good to put the car on jack stands. I did not have jack stands then so I only placed the wheel under the car just in case 😅