*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Making use of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
My Polar chest strap just died. Found this video. Used a heat gun on one side of the back, box cutter to loosen, hot gun on the other side, box cutter, then on the two ends. Pryed open the back. I left the front alone. unscrewed the 3 screws and pulled off the bottom. There is a small brass forked connector that came loose. I used a very small piece of tape to hold it in place. Replaced the battery and put it all back. pressed the back in (still a little loose). One strip of electrician tape on each side. It worked. A friend got the new strap and had to replace the battery every three months. I hope this will go on for years, as before.
I have a polar t-34, A polar chest strap that uses 2034 battery. I followed your instructions and it worked like a charm. The strange thing is that polar does not place this video on their website. And when I called the fitness shop that I bought. The chest drop from fourteen years ago they couldn't help me at all. And since polar has no customer service telephone line, And I was only able to check with a robot, I had to do my own searching. So thanks for the video it really helped me out in great job. I didn't have to spend ninety dollars on a new one , but rather just replace the battery.
Hi, viewed a few of these replacement battery videos, and this is the best. Note this guy does not dig out the electronic tags which are attached to the strap sensors. Once this is put back together and sealed there should be an appearance similar to the original finish, unlike the others left with unsightly evidence of digging. Thanks for putting this out there.:-)
I just replaced the battery on mine. Used a hair dryer to get it started and then a very fine screwdriver to slice and pry the back off. Worked like a charm. I did not have to remove anything but the back of the unit and I left it "hinged" along the top. The electronics came right out and replacing the battery was easy. I don't know how much Polar would've charged but I'm sure I saved a bunch, considering the battery was only about $5!
Thanks. Just replaced the battery on a T31 coded. Applied heat from a hair dryer to long edge for about a minute. Sliced it open with Stanley knife. Then did the same on both edges. Opened just like in the video. There was a small gold 3 prong thing that contacted the battery that just sat in a couple of holes. Getting that to stay while putting back together was a challenge. Be careful as lots of force required with sharp instruments. Used tape to seal it. Happy to get some more years life from it . By then may buy a new strap and watch.
Thanks for the video. It looked like the best technique as it seemed to preserve the structural integrity of the unit and allowed for easy battery changes in the future. But the electronic tag did pull away from the side/sensor portion of the strap for me. It doesn't seem possible to use this technique for taking off the front and back cases without at least one of those tags at least coming loose, if not out. I am going to patch mine back together with a new battery and see how well it stays together but I am not too confident. There is certainly no harm in trying this method but I think I am going to get out my rotary tool next time (if my assumption that this won't hold together and I will be getting a new unit is correct) and cut a hole in front of the battery and just pluck it out. The battery I removed still had 3.02v so I feared the battery was not the problem after all. But I see from Louis' comment that it actually needs more voltage than that.
Though this video is VERY helpful I found a much easier way to change the battery. I bought a Polar H9 (around $59) and, now, can change the battery in less than a minute. I mean... If this is what it takes to replace the battery from this heart rate unit I say shoot the lock off your wallet and go for a new, more modern blue tooth/ANT+ unit that has a user exchangeable battery. This technique, though it works, is ridiculous when you compare a modern unit which is much more functional anyway. I have three of these older HR monitors and, after seeing this video, I'm throwing them out. Thank you for the clarification. Oh, and by the way, you can get those batteries on Amazon for less than $1 each, talk about saving money.
Checked the battery in mine and it was 3 volts. You would think it would still work properly at that level, but it was giving low heart rate figures. Poped a new one in at 3.36v and it is now fine... To answer a previous question here, this HRM was used mostly summers for cycling for the past 8 years. About 3 000km/year, at about 23km/hr average speed.
Thank you. I am contemplating purchasing a Polar FT1 but when I found out about the transmitter needing replaced in as little time as 3 months I thought better of it, but now knowing the battery can be replaced - and the fact I can buy a pack with 10 CR2032s for less than a fiver - I am now a little more confident in buying it.
C. Brion Kidder hi Brion, thank you for this video. Actually I thought it is normal to change its battery. But I think you pointed out some how that if the battery dies you should purchase a new chest strap. Am I right?
+C. Brion Kidder Sure, you can always buy a new one. Or you can replace the battery for a couple of bucks. Also, I think the new ones are coded and I'm not sure if the treadmills and eliptical machines will pick them up. I hope someone will confirm that, or correct me.
Thanks, very well presented. I was about to throw mine away! Polar really need to install a simple cover for changing the battery, not at all environmentally friendly, yet another money making scam to get you to buy new when there really is no need.
Thanks! Had two that died and just replaced both! Very easy. I do have a heat gun and had to be careful not to melt anything. I did use a bit of silicon sealant when putting it back together as what good is having a heart monitor that can't resist a good sweat! You saved me a bunch of $.
Did you use silicone sealant like the one used for bathroom caulking applications? Was it strong enough to keep the shape of the chest strap? How long did you let it cure for? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this video. Very helpful. I thought I might relay my experience to others who come here looking for this process. The amount of force and prying was substantial to get the caps off. Particularly the front side. I used a hair dryer very close to it to help melt the stuff and, even so, it was pretty difficult. I got it all apart and now the circuit board is loose from the strap. The two "tabs" on either side pull right out from the plastic now. I'm not sure how to fix that. Super glue perhaps or something. And hope that it still works. Still, there is nothing to lose at this point and the video was very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for this concise video I have a t31-coded. I got the back off and the screws out just like the video said, but did not have much luck with the front cover. I could not get that off with out really applying a lot of pressure. Oh well it was worth a shot. Thanks for posting this video
Nice Review and very inspiring - unfortunately does not work for the coded version T61. Looks very similar from the outside and you also need hot air to open the back cover, but from there on it´s different: only two screws and the upper cover does *not* come off if you remove them! :-( you got to use a flat screwdriver to rise the PCBA, so that the battery can drop out of the case.. It´s not a CR2032 but a CR2354 - pretty thick and up-/downside have different Diameters....
The H7 heart rate transmitter snaps off the chest strap, but it costs $70. More than a new older version Polar watch!!! The T31 new replacement heart rate transmitter from a reseller, not Polar, costs about $30 plus shipping. Replacing the battery costs $1 plus a couple hours.
good question. I've been thinking it is probably time to retire this video, since the newer Polar models have a snap on sensor with replaceable battery.
Kidder are you kidding? The Polar T31 transmitter is coated sealed unit. To get the front and back section free involves a lot of cutting and prying to remove coating. Go ahead and impale yourself numerous times before you get your chewed up unsealed unit apart. Better by whole new Polar System including wrist monitor for about $45.00 that will work. Too bad you didn't show how chiseled it apart for an hour.
Aren't you referring to the T34? It's coated sealed. Still. It can be replaced (but a lot more work). You need to seal it again and most likely not as good seal as from factory. I did replaced the battery in mine T34 for about 1h ago.
Used a heat gun along where the obvious seams would be and the front came right off. I left the back on. Don't know yet if I got the battery hold down bracket in correctly until I do a workout on the stationary bike tomorrow.
thanks for that. as a side note... $35 dollars to replace the strap!!!! that's a bargain. last time i got those robbing b*stards at polar just to change my batteries they charged me fifty pounds sterling. just to change my batteries! and this was about 8 years ago. my elastic band that attaches to the chest strap was failing at the time, had clearly broken and was not fit for use, so i included it in the package i sent to them. they didn't even replace it but simply sent it back in the same unusable condition. i was dumbfounded as to their total lack of customer service. i have never bought a polar product since.
Thank you for the information. I have the T41 monitor and am unable to disassemble. The replacement is only $27 USD BUT the criminals way $22 to ship it. TOTAL 🐂💩!
caution: do not cut the sides. only the top and bottom - I made this mistake and trashed it altogether. the left right wings connect to the main circuit board through very weak metal strips and I ended up snipping them. oh well.
Danger don’t attempt to solder replacement battery!,, I had an older Polar strap and it had terminals that were attached to the battery and soldered into circuit board. Removing the dead battery did not pose a problem but when I attempted to solder the new battery it exploded in my face. Fortunately I had magnifying headset on and my eyes were protected. Doh! I forgot these were lithium batteries and quite volatile.They can be purchased with solder tabs attached for a couple bucks on e-commerce sites.
Danger! Don’t attempt to solder replacement battery! I had an older Polar strap and it had terminals that were attached to the battery and soldered into circuit board. Removing the dead battery did not pose a problem but when I attempted to solder the new battery it exploded in my face. Fortunately I had magnifying headset on and my eyes were protected. Doh! I forgot these were lithium batteries and quite volatile.They can be purchased with solder tabs attached for a couple bucks on e-commerce sites.
Crap! I watched this video too late. I watched another one that had me pull the entire unit out from the band (instead of just pop the front cover off). This caused problems because it doesn't simply slip back in place. i tore it up a bit trying to jam it back into the band. Some kind of nub or something kept the two ends from going in, not to mention you had to stretch it to make it fit. Wish i had watched your video first. :(
Whew!!! well I'll tell youi that after struggling for over tgwo houiirs with getting it off and getting it back in and it and it still not working, I'd rather spend the $40 and just buy a new one. My time and frustration isn't worth this exercise!!!
Planned obsolescence. I will never buy another Polar product. I tried to open the t34 and it was rubber encased. They want you to replace the strap every 2 - 3 years. F-that. I'll go with Garmin. At least they provide easy access to the battery with screws in the back.
It really isn’t easy to get the covers off. Removing the 'bead of wax' is tough. It does not come off easily. You have to do it both sides and getting the front cover off is very difficult. It all takes far too long and you may as well just buy a new one. This video is very misleading.
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
Making use of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
My Polar chest strap just died. Found this video. Used a heat gun on one side of the back, box cutter to loosen, hot gun on the other side, box cutter, then on the two ends. Pryed open the back. I left the front alone. unscrewed the 3 screws and pulled off the bottom. There is a small brass forked connector that came loose. I used a very small piece of tape to hold it in place. Replaced the battery and put it all back. pressed the back in (still a little loose). One strip of electrician tape on each side. It worked. A friend got the new strap and had to replace the battery every three months. I hope this will go on for years, as before.
I have a polar t-34, A polar chest strap that uses 2034 battery. I followed your instructions and it worked like a charm. The strange thing is that polar does not place this video on their website. And when I called the fitness shop that I bought. The chest drop from fourteen years ago they couldn't help me at all. And since polar has no customer service telephone line, And I was only able to check with a robot, I had to do my own searching. So thanks for the video it really helped me out in great job. I didn't have to spend ninety dollars on a new one , but rather just replace the battery.
Hi, viewed a few of these replacement battery videos, and this is the best. Note this guy does not dig out the electronic tags which are attached to the strap sensors. Once this is put back together and sealed there should be an appearance similar to the original finish, unlike the others left with unsightly evidence of digging. Thanks for putting this out there.:-)
He apparently had a T31 that was not molded into one piece. They started to do that to make them usable for swimming. Like the one I have...
I just replaced the battery on mine. Used a hair dryer to get it started and then a very fine screwdriver to slice and pry the back off. Worked like a charm. I did not have to remove anything but the back of the unit and I left it "hinged" along the top. The electronics came right out and replacing the battery was easy. I don't know how much Polar would've charged but I'm sure I saved a bunch, considering the battery was only about $5!
How much time needed using the hair dryer?
Thanks. Just replaced the battery on a T31 coded. Applied heat from a hair dryer to long edge for about a minute. Sliced it open with Stanley knife. Then did the same on both edges. Opened just like in the video.
There was a small gold 3 prong thing that contacted the battery that just sat in a couple of holes. Getting that to stay while putting back together was a challenge.
Be careful as lots of force required with sharp instruments.
Used tape to seal it. Happy to get some more years life from it . By then may buy a new strap and watch.
Thanks for the video. It looked like the best technique as it seemed to preserve the structural integrity of the unit and allowed for easy battery changes in the future. But the electronic tag did pull away from the side/sensor portion of the strap for me. It doesn't seem possible to use this technique for taking off the front and back cases without at least one of those tags at least coming loose, if not out. I am going to patch mine back together with a new battery and see how well it stays together but I am not too confident. There is certainly no harm in trying this method but I think I am going to get out my rotary tool next time (if my assumption that this won't hold together and I will be getting a new unit is correct) and cut a hole in front of the battery and just pluck it out. The battery I removed still had 3.02v so I feared the battery was not the problem after all. But I see from Louis' comment that it actually needs more voltage than that.
The cap on my T34 was VERY resistant to removal. Your video helped a lot in showing where I could cut (single edged razor blade).
Though this video is VERY helpful I found a much easier way to change the battery. I bought a Polar H9 (around $59) and, now, can change the battery in less than a minute.
I mean...
If this is what it takes to replace the battery from this heart rate unit I say shoot the lock off your wallet and go for a new, more modern blue tooth/ANT+ unit that has a user exchangeable battery. This technique, though it works, is ridiculous when you compare a modern unit which is much more functional anyway.
I have three of these older HR monitors and, after seeing this video, I'm throwing them out. Thank you for the clarification.
Oh, and by the way, you can get those batteries on Amazon for less than $1 each, talk about saving money.
Checked the battery in mine and it was 3 volts. You would think it would still work properly at that level, but it was giving low heart rate figures. Poped a new one in at 3.36v and it is now fine... To answer a previous question here, this HRM was used mostly summers for cycling for the past 8 years. About 3 000km/year, at about 23km/hr average speed.
sarah holde
Thank you. I am contemplating purchasing a Polar FT1 but when I found out about the transmitter needing replaced in as little time as 3 months I thought better of it, but now knowing the battery can be replaced - and the fact I can buy a pack with 10 CR2032s for less than a fiver - I am now a little more confident in buying it.
Glad it was useful information for you.
C. Brion Kidder hi Brion, thank you for this video. Actually I thought it is normal to change its battery. But I think you pointed out some how that if the battery dies you should purchase a new chest strap. Am I right?
Hi Med, the new ones have replaceable batteries and an improved design, so I agree that you might as well just buy a new one.
C. Brion Kidder hi. ok thank you!
+C. Brion Kidder Sure, you can always buy a new one. Or you can replace the battery for a couple of bucks. Also, I think the new ones are coded and I'm not sure if the treadmills and eliptical machines will pick them up. I hope someone will confirm that, or correct me.
Thanks, very well presented. I was about to throw mine away! Polar really need to install a simple cover for changing the battery, not at all environmentally friendly, yet another money making scam to get you to buy new when there really is no need.
Disco Biscuit I think the reason it's tight is so it doesn't come lose when you fall or knock it etc
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. I absolutely agree with your point about disposable electronic equipment.
Very well explained. Short and to the point. Thank you so much!
Thanks much. I now know how to change the battery and keep the stap out of land fill.
Thanks! Had two that died and just replaced both! Very easy. I do have a heat gun and had to be careful not to melt anything. I did use a bit of silicon sealant when putting it back together as what good is having a heart monitor that can't resist a good sweat! You saved me a bunch of $.
It would have been good if I had the T31 where you can pry the end caps off. I had to cut away at the one piece plastic molding. Not fun...
Did you use silicone sealant like the one used for bathroom caulking applications? Was it strong enough to keep the shape of the chest strap? How long did you let it cure for? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this video. Very helpful. I thought I might relay my experience to others who come here looking for this process. The amount of force and prying was substantial to get the caps off. Particularly the front side. I used a hair dryer very close to it to help melt the stuff and, even so, it was pretty difficult. I got it all apart and now the circuit board is loose from the strap. The two "tabs" on either side pull right out from the plastic now. I'm not sure how to fix that. Super glue perhaps or something. And hope that it still works. Still, there is nothing to lose at this point and the video was very helpful. Thanks!
Broke out the old polar from the storage box to try with my new bike trainer. Of course the batteries are dead. Thanks!
Thank you for this concise video I have a t31-coded. I got the back off and the screws out just like the video said, but did not have much luck with the front cover. I could not get that off with out really applying a lot of pressure. Oh well it was worth a shot. Thanks for posting this video
Ill never buy another Polar
Nice Review and very inspiring - unfortunately does not work for the coded version T61. Looks very similar from the outside and you also need hot air to open the back cover, but from there on it´s different: only two screws and the upper cover does *not* come off if you remove them! :-( you got to use a flat screwdriver to rise the PCBA, so that the battery can drop out of the case.. It´s not a CR2032 but a CR2354 - pretty thick and up-/downside have different Diameters....
And T41
Thanks for the info! Will use it when the time comes to replace the battery in my polar HR monitor.
Thanks buddy. Exactly what I needed to know. I was assuming the chest strap was useless now.
Glad it helped, although I ended up getting a new one from Polar, because the sensor part now snaps off and has a replaceable battery.
C. Brion Kidder Which one would that be? As in what model? And would it work with a Polar FT1?
Do you mind if I ask how long your transmitter lasted? Thanks in advance.
The H7 heart rate transmitter snaps off the chest strap, but it costs $70. More than a new older version Polar watch!!! The T31 new replacement heart rate transmitter from a reseller, not Polar, costs about $30 plus shipping. Replacing the battery costs $1 plus a couple hours.
I bought a replacement strap for chest and it won’t connect!
Thank you! I am ready to replace my battery on my T31.
i tried changing one and butchered the casing on the same model it does not come right apart like previous video
Great video, love the electrical tape. I'm going to replace mine now that I've seen how it's done. Thanks.
Good job! Thanks a lot for this clear video. Real good explanation.
I know this is dated but why not replace the wax with drippings from a candle?
good question. I've been thinking it is probably time to retire this video, since the newer Polar models have a snap on sensor with replaceable battery.
Big thanks from Wales in the Uk , just done this and your video was very helpful. Many thanks. Dave
How an you make this water proof for swimming?
Thanks. Just what I needed to know. But it's "there ARE three" not there IS ("there's") three.
Cheers there buddy appreciated your little blurb 😀🎶🎶
When you want do it yourself, just "Google it". Thanks for the "how to" video.
Great video. That was my guess also about the device´s battery.Thank you very much for making that clear.
The front cap from mine will NOT come off!
Thanks for the video❤
Muchas gracias, ahorre dinero y basura con este tutorial, THANKS!!!
The T34 looks like it's more securely glued
Thanks my friend , ..keep up the good work.
Thank you for posting info!
Thanks for the info and demo!
They make them hard to change so we stuff them up and have to buy new ones.
Thanks for sharing this!
Thank you so much for this video!! Great, I just did it, and it worked!! Perfect!!
Kidder are you kidding? The Polar T31 transmitter is coated sealed unit. To get the front and back section free involves a lot of cutting and prying to remove coating. Go ahead and impale yourself numerous times before you get your chewed up unsealed unit apart.
Better by whole new Polar System including wrist monitor for about $45.00 that will work. Too bad you didn't show how chiseled it apart for an hour.
Aren't you referring to the T34? It's coated sealed. Still. It can be replaced (but a lot more work). You need to seal it again and most likely not as good seal as from factory. I did replaced the battery in mine T34 for about 1h ago.
Used a heat gun along where the obvious seams would be and the front came right off. I left the back on. Don't know yet if I got the battery hold down bracket in correctly until I do a workout on the stationary bike tomorrow.
@@aggplanta any instructions on what's the best way to open it?
thanks for that. as a side note... $35 dollars to replace the strap!!!! that's a bargain. last time i got those robbing b*stards at polar just to change my batteries they charged me fifty pounds sterling. just to change my batteries! and this was about 8 years ago. my elastic band that attaches to the chest strap was failing at the time, had clearly broken and was not fit for use, so i included it in the package i sent to them. they didn't even replace it but simply sent it back in the same unusable condition. i was dumbfounded as to their total lack of customer service. i have never bought a polar product since.
I agree that Polar should have been much better with customer service in terms of their heart rate monitors!!!
Thank you for the information. I have the T41 monitor and am unable to disassemble.
The replacement is only $27 USD BUT the criminals way $22 to ship it. TOTAL 🐂💩!
caution: do not cut the sides. only the top and bottom - I made this mistake and trashed it altogether. the left right wings connect to the main circuit board through very weak metal strips and I ended up snipping them. oh well.
Good video, thanks
Danger don’t attempt to solder replacement battery!,, I had an older Polar strap and it had terminals that were attached to the battery and soldered into circuit board. Removing the dead battery did not pose a problem but when I attempted to solder the new battery it exploded in my face. Fortunately I had magnifying headset on and my eyes were protected. Doh! I forgot these were lithium batteries and quite volatile.They can be purchased with solder tabs attached for a couple bucks on e-commerce sites.
These close-up vids NEVER have THE focus or lighting that supports seeing clearly what is happening.
Danger! Don’t attempt to solder replacement battery! I had an older Polar strap and it had terminals that were attached to the battery and soldered into circuit board. Removing the dead battery did not pose a problem but when I attempted to solder the new battery it exploded in my face. Fortunately I had magnifying headset on and my eyes were protected. Doh! I forgot these were lithium batteries and quite volatile.They can be purchased with solder tabs attached for a couple bucks on e-commerce sites.
this is very good when you don´t care about to loose the water resistant / waterproof seal.
A water-tight seal is only relevant if your monitor works but you're trying to fix it anyway.
why I won't buy any polar product again
Crap! I watched this video too late. I watched another one that had me pull the entire unit out from the band (instead of just pop the front cover off). This caused problems because it doesn't simply slip back in place. i tore it up a bit trying to jam it back into the band. Some kind of nub or something kept the two ends from going in, not to mention you had to stretch it to make it fit. Wish i had watched your video first. :(
Unfortunately the T41 is not the same and I have been unable to disassemble.
Many thanks.
Thanks, very helpful..... Polar could have kept is easy but wont......
Thank you!!
Thanks
WOW..tried xacto knife for a bit, but this thing is a nightmare to open..gonna just spend the $35..I give up haha
you tha man
Whew!!! well I'll tell youi that after struggling for over tgwo houiirs with getting it off and getting it back in and it and it still not working, I'd rather spend the $40 and just buy a new one. My time and frustration isn't worth this exercise!!!
I agree. That is why I suggest to get a new one in my brief how to video on replacing the battery on the T31 heart rate transmitter.
Planned obsolescence. I will never buy another Polar product. I tried to open the t34 and it was rubber encased. They want you to replace the strap every 2 - 3 years. F-that. I'll go with Garmin. At least they provide easy access to the battery with screws in the back.
"waxy adhesive that peels right off"; yeah right. just buy a new one or send it in to Polar.
im an idiot! i did not use blow dryer!
Radio Shack... the before time.
Don't bother, this guy is bs'ing you 😂 otherwise he would show the part where he removes the molding.
Колхоз... Лучше на клей посадить. Потом всё равно легче будет оторвать.
It really isn’t easy to get the covers off. Removing the 'bead of wax' is tough. It does not come off easily. You have to do it both sides and getting the front cover off is very difficult. It all takes far too long and you may as well just buy a new one. This video is very misleading.
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