Sam, the gel in the engine computer is not meant to be tamper resistant. It's to keep out air and moisture, while being a heat conducting dielectric. The alternatives is to make the box 100% hermetically sealed but this is tricky, especially in an application like a car. Potting it 100% shut is also an option, but hard to do in applications where there is big thermal shocks.
A lot of ECUs have a hydrophobic ptfe breather disc that lets moisture out but not in, I know because I used to make them for GM, Fiat must not have used them.
Ratarossa this is a car for you. I know Sam can fiddle with things but having someone else mucking around with everything it need an expert to know what is wrong and where things go
Personally, I'd be inclined to just retrofit in a nice new Haltech ecu and throw the factory units in the bin (or put them on ebay). Surely that's a cost effective way to resolve the factory ecu reliability issue
I've repaired a handful of these 360 ecus. This hardware is also used on Alfa Romeos of a similar vintage. In most cases the issue is failed joints on the ceramic substrate. The components are bonded in position, not soldered. They are difficult to repair but it can be done.
@@wellwornpast The parts are Surface-mount technology (SMT) components and are glued to the board before wave soldering. To repair them typically can only be done with a specialized hot air tool and/or other equipment and often the traces fracture and must be repaired also - on a multilayer board this is almost impossible but I suspect fiat uses pretty basic boards and i can see that board is not real high quality by the colour. The gel is (as noted by someone else) to seal against moisture.
@@brianmercer712 these are not traditional printed circuits. They are a ceramic substrate where the component connections are bonded not wave soldered. The integrated circuit wafers are connected with gold threads directly to the substrate, no plastic device cases. The whole lot is then covered in silicon gel to keep the atmosphere out. They really are designed to be (very expensive) throw-away.
As an Electrical Engineer that does failure analysis, I am skeptical of a voltage spike that kills a capacitor. When capacitors fail, it's obvious and dramatic (tantalum capacitors burn and aluminum electrolytics explode through their top). A voltage spike from what? If it is a voltage spike, it is more likely to take out a Semiconductor. To protect the ECU from voltage transients, I suggest placing a Sidactor across the power leads going to the ECU. Beyond that, it could be an over voltage condition (longer duration than a transient) from the battery jump starter for which the ECUs have little tolerance. For that I would install a DC to DC regulator between the ECU power source and the ECU - a robust regulator capable of handling input transients and over voltage conditions. The regulator output keeps the ECU power input a happy 12VDC.
Electrical Engineer here as well - Cars are the very definition of a noisy, spikey environment. I would hazard a guess that EVERY computer would die within a few years if there wasn't adequate protection. Automotive designers also tend to be quite conservative because they have to deal with such a harsh environment in a long lasting product. Considering there would be a good market for repairs I'm surprised no one seems to have found the problem or a fix yet.
Is it possible trying to start the car with the ECUs poorly/intermittently grounded by just sitting on the frame like that could have also contributed?
@@corym.4971 That seems quite likely actually. Because the main ground path is missing the current will find another, likely through a sensor or actuator somewhere (Although they are usually isolated.)
Maybe a capacitor is bad and there could be a transient or noise crashing the computer.. perhaps that's why it's stable until after the first start. Those lithium jumper packs probably don't accept charge either and the alternator charge circuit could be pumping in a very noisy or over volted supply into the system once started damaging the computers.
@@peejay1981 I am certain if you or I looked at the ECU schematic, we could see the deficiency in the design that makes it susceptible to possible line transient damage. The grounding comment Cory made is also very valid. For something this sensitive, I would want to see a redundant ground strap from the ECU to a ground bonding location.
This doesn't make sense. Let's say you have a very simple circuit: a light bulb, connected to a 12v battery. Do you think the light bulb would behave differently when you disconnected one or the other lead first? I don't think so, the electrons will stop flowing and there's even no way of knowing, just measuring at the light bulb, which side was disconnected first. The same goes for an ECU, when disconnecting the power, electrons stop flowing and the thing turns off.
Here are my thoughts: The sequence of connecting or disconnecting jumper cables is related to safety (avoid sparks in the combustible environment) where most of the metal is connected to the ground points of ECUs etc, so you want to minimize the chances of accidentally touching the positive lead of the jumper box or charger to the metal in the engine (to complete a loop back to the jumper). Otherwise you will create a voltage along the short circuit path that could take out ECUs. Kirchoff's voltage law applies: the sum of all the voltages around a close loop equals zero. So 12V input to a short circuit needs -12V around the loop to satisfy this law. So this could easily take out a polarized capacitor, and a clamping diode may protect the rest of the circuitry. There will be a huge pulse of energy into the system.
I have another idea about jump-starting destroying ECUs: the jump-start current is high so it needs to flow along the path of least resistance to the starter motor. If you do it from the rear of a vehicle where the battery is in the front, then the high current will flow over thin wires producing voltage in the negative direction applied to the ground points of ECUs for example.
Hey Sam long time subscriber here, and I must say that I like how you are becoming more regular in your video content again. I’ve really enjoyed your channel and everything I just don’t want to see it up and gone like some of the other channels out there. My big wish is to some day actually get to meet you and even wrench on a car with you. Even though I’m not you tuber I am a retired mechanic and would love to help out.
25:26 Something they don't teach you in Engineering is how "electrons" only generate spikes when they "run the length of the electrical system on the car" ( someone would think the added resistance of the wires would add some protection but no) also remember to fill the blinkers with blinker fluid, and the elbows with elbow grease.
don't have to use the right words if you have the concept- something getting too much power/amperage/at the wrong time issue is probably the cold-start voltage from the jump-pack just being too high specifically for the engine ecu
Long wires do have inductance and rapidly switching voltages applied to significant inductance will generate brief high voltage spikes. That's basic electronics and it's how DC/DC voltage boost converters work.
The car is a nice blue, much much nicer than his thumbnail that reminds me of the color of my toenail when i once was vacuuming the rug while wearing no shoes while watching tv. Definitely not a nasal escavation related accident trying to get at the spaghetti stringer. Ever see someone in the shop, and their hands are dirty though their fingertips look clean?
@@balhaarr I am much the realist. So much so that i dont overlook the variables that do show alot of potential. Such as the mention of how to clean your fingertips even if you cant find a proper sink with water and soap. A viscous snot can used to lift the impacted dirt from under the fingernails, and to the pads of the fingertip should you need to be working with any pendant or computer touchscreens or fingerprint readers on the jobsite in this modern world. Please learn from my mistakes in cleaning, and wear shoes when you are vacuuming rooms that have a television in them. TV is harmful.
I think what I’ve learned from these videos is that Ferraris are beautiful looking cars and fast but pieces of shit when it comes to any kind of reliability and not worth having. Thanks for the great content and learning experiences 👍🏻 enjoy the content!
Only worth the trouble if it's like a pre-elctronic vintage with totally analog stuff. Of course then $$$$$. Nothing more expensive than a beater Ferrari.
These videos are interesting and definitely confirm my thought that the electronics in new cars make them disposable garbage after a certain amount of time. It’s really sad
Sam - Regardless of what's happening with your stuff, I can't help but liking the way you present it. You own your mistakes, and finally get the job done. I can't ever drive by Copart in Punta Gorda without smiling & wondering if you've been in there lately. Jay in Ft. Myers.
Due to the cost, I'm actually surprised someone hasn't done that already. I know holley makes an ECU system that is direct bolt on, and since basically an ecu does the same job on every engine, why not? I know there will be differences but in reality, they control the air/fuel flow, spark, etc and get information by o2 sensors, crank position sensor, cam sensors etc. Sure there will be differences between 4 6 8 12 cylinder engines and timing/firing order but really, that can all be programmed in. I mean they are only small computers after all.
@@muskokamike127 They do even more than that. Haltech and Fueltech (Holley too, probably) have transmission control on the ecu, and can even run the acessories, like the convertible top. I mean, look at fueltech's F355, they converted the convertible top to manual, swaped a gated manual in, put their ECU and the car has absolutely no 'ferrari' issues. Is a solid car. Sam should start to look out for alternatives, i'm sure holley offers something for him to buy to not have to deal with ferrari eletronic bullshit anymore.
@@muskokamike127 I suspect it's a case of replicating all the can/Kline messaging to convince the rest of the car the proper ECUs are present. It's a lot of work for something like an engine computer
@@hassaization I have no doubt it's a lot of programming. Probably less than what goes into a simple video game however. "If it was easy everyone would do it"
@@PedroBorgesNH Yeah I don't know fueltech or Haltech but I've seen enough videos to see what's possible. B is for Build ran dual ECUs when they swapped in an LS into a Lambo. One for the body, and one for the engine so I have to assume you can program a generic ECU to do both. I mean, they're not apple computers FFS lol.....
@@getchasome6230 dude is probably pulling at min 40k a month just from UA-cam Ad revenue, I doubt he needs anyone elses money to buy a 30 - 40k broken car.
I'm excited to see where this new 360 goes! Amazing that you could potentially get the engine fixed for a couple hours of work and a capacitor or two! Good luck!
Of course you can jump start a Ferrari. It also should not matter if you do it from the battery or the from behind the driver's seat. Voltage is Voltage. That said, many jump packs will put out 15V or more and that could actually cause issues. The safest way to jump start would be with another car, another battery, or with a traditional lead acid jump pack. I have not personally seen a high voltage lithium pack cause a problem, but I have hear it's possible. Will be interested to see if anything is blown in your Ferrari computers.
@@802Garage The only way to ever jump-start another car safely is with another running vehicle. Those jump packs are in no way regulated like a running car is. Also, ground the ECUs before even connecting the electrical systems. One small spark jumping to the nearest ground is all it can take - we know this all too well from working on computers. Make sure your system/self is grounded before you start plugging things in and out of it.
@@plektosgaming That's simply not factual. It would be much safer to jump start a car with a fully charged battery than with another running car, for example. Because, this would match the starting attributes of starting a car with its own battery. It also means the voltage is lower, 12.6V ideally instead of say 14.3V from a healthy alternator. There is also no current fluctuation and there is no chance of another vehicle misbehaving when the voltage droops due to the start attempt. Ground the ECU? Are you talking specifically about this video? Every ECU in a car is already going to be grounded. You also don't need to worry about electricity jumping to you unless you are holding a positive connection or touch one and even then you'll be fine. Static shocks while working on computers are hardly even related and are also very unlikely to damage modern components. You can worry about voltage spikes damaging ECU components, but that's totally different. Voltage is Voltage and Amp draw is limited by a number of factors. As long as you connect
@@802Garage That's assuming you carry a battery with you? Of course a battery that's fully charged at home is the best, but you'll rarely see that in the field. Those little jump packs, though, definitely aren't worth the risk, IMO.
Man you'd think there'd be a bigger market for component level repair on these ECUs. There are so many well equipped techs and engineers in the US that could easily do this kind of work. I'd go so far as to say that there are a number of labs that could probably even duplicate the entire ECU from scratch. I don't know anything about the legality of this but I've seen much more complex units produced to retrofit older industrial machines. Either way I'm interested to see how this turns out. S U B S C R I B E D
A mate of mine specialises in restoring ICB's - he started out part time, specifically doing Toyota/Lexus ICU capacitor replacements (because 90's Toyota's and Lexus's pretty much all start to get leaky caps at around the 15 year mark), but now he does all kinds of stuff and can repair most things, even a lot of the time LCD screens and such. Often it turns a vehicle that was barely running or won't start at all back into near new performance - or even with factory stereos from horrible tinny sound back to great. He's based in NZ though so not much use for America.
Thing is, there aren't many of these cars in existence, and even fewer with bad ECUs. It doesn't really pay to spend the time learning how to repair, or to reverse engineer something better. There are zillons of old cars of other makes out there with functioning ECUs that will NEVER fail. The problem, is Ferrari. They make poorly engineered trash.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH in my opinion your take is kinda invalid because apparently ferrari still sold these ecus up until a bit ago. Now working ecus cost a lot since they've been discontinued. By extension now there is an incentive to know how they work to fix them it's just that few want to put in the effort to learn.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH i'd say if the ECUs cost 2k a pop, and you need two of them for the job, that if someone could come up with a solution, they could be making an extra 100k a year on top of whatever they are making at their day job. its just a matter of getting an ECU into the hands of someone capable of engineering a solution. I think emulating the engine comptuer software in a cheap off the shelf chipset of some sort would be fine.
I recommend setting your trailer ramps on top of your lumber to reduce the angle. This has the effect of making the ramp longer and a shallower angle without the danger of the wood coming up and slapping the underside of the car. It also keeps the lumber in place better and makes unloading less sketchy. hth
Should be dead easy to replace a simple capacitor, you don't need an automotive repair shop to do it. Any electronics repair shop with a hot air station (or just a soldering iron with some skill) and some flux can do it. That goes for all the other components on the board as well, as long as they are still available. Maybe Louis Rossman would be interested in expanding into Ferrari repairs lol.
Looks like you are using cabriolet hydraulics in Bradenton to fix the cylinder. I used them to fix the latch cylinder in my SL55. The fittings save a ton of time. Did mine 8 years ago and it hasn’t leaked yet.
Great content ! And if I can throw some light on the recurring ECU problem your having then I'm glad to help ...... I own a Seadoo jetski that I was charging while the battery was inside the Ski and I was starting while under charge (big mistake) So cut a long story short I blew out the ECU (FRIED) So I looked at a replacement ECU which was very expensive so on further investigation I came across a forum that pretty much explains its a 5 buck repair but quite a bit of labour to strip down the potting on the ecu ? So to work I went and ordered the diode and got a friend who resoldered the diode..... hey presto and we're back working again...... Never give up on finding cheaper solutions
I've never even considered that it would be cool to own a Ferrari, but these videos have made this quite clear: When Ferrari tries to do bling, they fail, nearly universally. Hydraulics for a convertible top? Incredibly complex and terribly unreliable computers? When did they forget they were in the sports car business? They need to farm out trim and toys to Toyota or Tesla.
@@dekkerlundquist5938 This has been the inside secret for years. That the actual Supra was the Lotus, since it was mostly Toyota parts underneath (well before the official "Supra" was on sale. In quotes, since it's a re-badged BMW... Toyota should be ashamed). It's stupid fast, handles great, looks amazing, and Toyota quality. I'd buy a Lotus with 100K on it in a heartbeat as it's all off the shelf Toyota parts. Ferrari should just do the same with their transmissions, water pumps, and electricals. Lotus about 20 years ago figured out that they simply couldn't make a good car 100% on their own any more, so they went with the best in terms of reliability and cost. Get the job done and move on to the test track, as it were.
In Europe we never jump start a car... There is a small chance that the ECU will fail in doing so. If we find out a dead battery we put it on leads trough another car or portable charger, leave it for 10-15min until the battery have some juice in it, remove the leads and try to crank it up. Best thing is to replace the battery.
You have obviously put a lot of time into these cars and it’s an expensive learning curve. That whole roof mechanism looks like a complete nightmare. I admire your tenacity and determination……. I would be so bummed out looking at solving these problems but you just keep plowing ahead. Very interesting to watch.
lol I think the car would be worth more if he gutted the whole unreliable automatic roof mechanism headache & converted it to manual. I can see Samcrac fixing it, then having it break again miles from home, stuck 1/2 way between open & close in the middle of a thunderstorm while also leaking hydraulic fluid again all over the interior.......Ferrari
Car Ninja replaced top hydraulics with updated part. Repair seems like a better deal and no total disassembly. Good luck and thanks for the nice vid and content
Hoovie has a buddy ( don’t remember his name) at German Motors that recently did a video on repairing a Ferrari hydraulic tops. I think Hoovie calls him Ninja
Gotta say I’m loving the channel’s direction. These projects are interesting and challenging enough that as a viewer, I don’t need pranks or internet celebrity cameos or anything else. Keep them coming!
I immediately though jump pack voltage too. It shouldn’t matter where you connect the jumper. Ideally you should disconnect the computers before connecting a jump pack, once connected the battery will stabilize the voltage and the computers can be reconnected.
I was start a hoard of Ferrari parts (cpus, relays ect) so when you purchase another you have test parts to diagnose. When I worked at Chrysler dealerships I always had good sensors/Ecu*s in my toolbox to test.
It will be a tie. Both will break at the same time in a photo finish. Instead of a Prancing Horse logo, it should have been a logo showing Enzo dancing on a pile of cash.
JL Audio is a good brand. They carry all the way from middle of the road to professorial. You would have to unmount the speaker to find out the model. I would say it worth around 100 for the speakers in less, it is one of the top of the line models. The box I think would be hard to find a buying because it made for that kind of car only.
@@Samcrac these Ferraris are steaming hot piles of shit. After all your problems with the green one, why would you even think about getting another? I enjoy your videos and explaining haw these piles of garbage are assembled, but those engineers are really horrible. Give me an old American car anyway over all this European clunkers. It's only exotic cause nobody wants them in the USA.
I think the Car Ninja replaced that same top actuator on his ex-Hoovie yellow 360 because it was leaking in the same way. But he managed to unplug the crimped hydraulic lines from the block.
I've learned a lot about old Ferraris from this channel. Primarily I've learned I don't want one. Wow, a timing tensioner that can't seem to last 30k miles. Ferrari: We make parts out of glass but at least we're expensive. Imagine what a Ferrari would be like if it applied Honda durability practices.
Wow, never, never leave a vehicle at a breakers yard for even an hour after you have signed the deal - not saying this guy is a crook given you seem to know him pretty well & he gave you a bunch of parts, it's most likely just bad luck/Ferrari quality that is the cause here - but a lot of them are and will swap out bad parts for good if you leave the car untended - got so many horror stories. Those JL Audio speakers were probably pretty good when they were new (JL Audio are mid-high end so OK, not great - Rappers like them because they are very loud and very bass heavy - like Beats audio - if that's the kind of music you listen to then they are good, if you listen to anything else that needs a bit of subtlety in the mid and high range, they are below par) - but looks like they are pretty old so probably not up to a modern mid-level speaker quality.
The tensioners were replaced. If you look at the one tensioner bolt that you can view, you can see the bolt has wrench/socket witness marks on it. All of the edges of the vertical surfaces of the head have a slight sheen/shine to them. Compared to the flat surfaces. 95% of the socket and wrenches out there contact the edges of a bolt head, not the flat spots. That metal to metal contact polishes the edges.
you nailed something that most people do not know.... electronic parts, particularly capacitors fail!!! they get old and fail. There are numerous types but most people will see the cylinder and disc types. Below is the non technical way to look at them. The cylinder types will typically fail with a bulge, you may not notice it but if you look closely at a good one you may actually see which one failed. IF you find one bad one then you should replace ALL of the same type, as they would have come from the same batch and would have a similar life span. The disc type... well good luck.. some times the break/crack very obvious then other times... well they just fail. It is common for older electronics to want to have all of your caps replaced. If someone is doing this for you also find out if they have run the ESR on the replacements. A cap can test good for capacitance ... but still be bad and that is where ESR comes in! The person doing the work should know about ESR.
Basically, this era car has a TON of modules, like all expensive cars of this era. As the car and electronics get older you need to re-work the electrical system, find all the ground locations, clean them, make sure the connectors are good, make sure all the boards inside the modules are grounded to the case. Get a bunch of connector cleaning picks and clean every connector, make sure any screws holding down an electronic board isn't corroded. That will fix most of your problems.
Why not just remove the immobilizer?? Also have a question- if I have a mclaren and I want to an the stock ecu and another ecu with a different tune, if I switch ecu’s would I run into this problem?
Great video Sam love the troubleshooting and detailed explanations 👍🏻 way more interesting than your typical ferrari UA-cam video or car video for that matter
Something I learned is that if you have a manual car with a crank no start and you need to move it, just turn the key while you are in gear. You will jerk a lot but you will move. Good tip if you are stuck in the highway or on a railway track and you need to get out of the way.
TOP TIP - my friends car had an ECU issue and was passed from dealership to dealership and various garages. They had tried the disconnecting battery trick to no avail. It finally ended up at back street garage and a mechanic resolved the problem by disconnecting the battery +ve for 10 minutes and then touched the +ve battery lead to earth for a minute - this drained any residual current left in the system. Hey presto - the car was back to normal!
If you want, hit up a print shop, and they can make a copy of that fridge graphic and you can have a replica for cheap. Make one of yourself even you can sell to replace the discontinued other ones. You heard it hear first, on The Roller Derby.
FYI those ecu can be repaired and will work again. In Australia we have many companies thay fix that style of ecu. They are a poor construction design and they fail. They can be repaired for a fraction of the price of replacement units and you don't need to re flash them.
On the timing belt inspection with the fiber optic camera and monitor - Did you notice the 'Dayco" stamp on the belt? Contacting the rear side of the belt (closest to the engine block) There is a Head of a fastener directly (apparently) contacting the innermost edge of the timing belt @ time stamp 22:23 of this video.
Its like your favorite nightmare! Got this sweat deal man, now just rebuild the car the entire car, no big deal. Nice work, impressed with the knowledge on such a complicated vehicle.
Hey Sam I’ve heard that is the case for many modern or exotic cars, we used to turn the headlights and hi-beam (not sure what you call them over there) before hitting the key - could be all myth but might be worth a shot next time 🤷♂️
I replaced a capacitor on my 92 Mitsubishi ECU and it worked (kind of) Actually a technician at a TV repair shop did it for me. The circuit board was double sided which made it extra tricky. I say kind of because the engine started running well, but the trouble light still stayed on. Perhaps that was do to another problem.
About the "voltage spike" frying the ferrari computer while jump starting it... A 2 dollar lightbulb connected in series for 30 seconds, before you try to jump it, would save these precious computer modules. When you jump-start them with a long dead battery its not the voltage spike that kills the computer, its the inrush current. Inside the electronic modules you have capacitors. If the cars battery is dead and all those capacitors inside are discharged, there is a significant instantaneous current flow the moment you apply the voltage from your jump pack, so you should first connect the jump pack with a resistor in series for 30 seconds or so to let those capacitors charge up. After you do that, then you can connect the the jump pack normally and continue as you are.
JL Audio makes a ton of different lines of subs, from W0 to W7. Typically speaking, the higher the number, the more the sub cost originally; the version number (e.g. V2, V3, etc.) determine what year/generation it is; then the numbers after that indicate DVC/SVC and ohms per coil (e.g. D4 = 4 Ohm DVC).
Ok Sam, audio is where I can help you. While I can’t know the model of JL subs, I’m sure they fine. You should keep them. The coaxes are garbage. If you want recommendations for those, let me know.
Hi Sam just a little tip on jumping newer / new cars. Before you do anything TURN ON your side lights then put on your jump pack that way and power spike will be sent to a bulb and not to the engine control units. I was taught this by a Audi recovery specialist and I have to deal with jumping new vehicles every day and so far so good I’ve not had a problem 🤞🤞🤞👍 Keep up the entertaining videos I’m always waiting for the next one 👍 Nathan
The failing ceramic capacitor in the ECU is more like a few cents a piece. With access to a wire bonder it could be replaced since you cannot solder into these modules afaik.
Just make sure you have a good electronic tech test ecr values and do the cap job. You do not want to deal with lifting traces and then having to run bodge wires. Are they Illinois capacitors? There was a faulty batch in the early 2000’s that are known to go bad.
If the car has been sitting for years without running those timing belts really should be replaced. Sitting in one place for a long time can lead them to take a set and cause failure. You also really can't inspect the timing belt to determine whether or not it's close to failure. I've seen very good looking timing belts fail due to age or mileage. I've also seen really bad looking timing belts going just fine
The 360 is a solid car when owners stay up with the maintenance. A British man ran one up to 170,000km daily-driving it. It's just that when service warranties expired, a lot of people neglected them. That makes it difficult for people getting one now to chase down all the gremlins that creeped in to repair.
14:51 what a coincidence. just 2 days ago I saw a youtuber repair an actuator that looked "exactly" like this in an older SL55 AMG in place. He removed the cylinder-rod and replaced it. Was leak free afterwards. Cheers
Sam, the gel in the engine computer is not meant to be tamper resistant. It's to keep out air and moisture, while being a heat conducting dielectric. The alternatives is to make the box 100% hermetically sealed but this is tricky, especially in an application like a car. Potting it 100% shut is also an option, but hard to do in applications where there is big thermal shocks.
JB weld it back together to seal it up lol
Also, potting makes it unrepairable. The "snot" gel is great stuff! It can be removed for component replacement and reapplied once the repair is done.
Qgel 330 is excellent for potting.
@@jupujii I had good luck with Miracle Grow, but I was potting tomatoes.
A lot of ECUs have a hydrophobic ptfe breather disc that lets moisture out but not in, I know because I used to make them for GM, Fiat must not have used them.
Im surprised you actually bought a full can of fuel to put in that car !!!
Thanks to Ratarossa and Sambutcrac I'm never buying a Ferrari.. even if one day I could afford it
@@ssenssel And InfluEnzo (Number 27)
Fuel cost as much as the car did
Ratarossa this is a car for you. I know Sam can fiddle with things but having someone else mucking around with everything it need an expert to know what is wrong and where things go
It was probably bought on the black market, Sam doesn't pay full price for nothin! :D
Personally, I'd be inclined to just retrofit in a nice new Haltech ecu and throw the factory units in the bin (or put them on ebay). Surely that's a cost effective way to resolve the factory ecu reliability issue
In the bin!
Just said the same thing, then I saw you already beat me to it.
That would be the best option, but you won't be able to pass any emissions test since haltech ecu's don't pass on ready codes
@@kasuraga how do "ready codes" work does the original Ferrari have this thing. I'm sure Haltech could possibly do it.
@@kasuraga Haltech ecus are massively tunable, what even is a 'ready code'?
Emissions are determined by the mapping that's programmed
I've repaired a handful of these 360 ecus. This hardware is also used on Alfa Romeos of a similar vintage. In most cases the issue is failed joints on the ceramic substrate. The components are bonded in position, not soldered. They are difficult to repair but it can be done.
What do you mean "bonded, not soldered"? Is is some sort of a mechanical connection?
@@wellwornpast The parts are Surface-mount technology (SMT) components and are glued to the board before wave soldering. To repair them typically can only be done with a specialized hot air tool and/or other equipment and often the traces fracture and must be repaired also - on a multilayer board this is almost impossible but I suspect fiat uses pretty basic boards and i can see that board is not real high quality by the colour. The gel is (as noted by someone else) to seal against moisture.
I'm interested in learning how you go about repairing these :)
@@ek8710 I have a small business repairing modern classics electronics modules so not really prepared to give away many hours of work. Sorry ;-)
@@brianmercer712 these are not traditional printed circuits. They are a ceramic substrate where the component connections are bonded not wave soldered. The integrated circuit wafers are connected with gold threads directly to the substrate, no plastic device cases. The whole lot is then covered in silicon gel to keep the atmosphere out. They really are designed to be (very expensive) throw-away.
I have no intentions of ever owning an old Ferrari, but I love watching Samcrac work on them.
~from a longtime sub with all the notifications!
You're the best!
Oh yeah dude! Same here....the old fashioned way!
A real Ferrari with NO computers would not be an issue. It is these garbage Fiats in disguise that are complete shit💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸
I have been a long time viewer since Sam met Rich.
If this is an “old Ferrari” I now feel old
As an Electrical Engineer that does failure analysis, I am skeptical of a voltage spike that kills a capacitor. When capacitors fail, it's obvious and dramatic (tantalum capacitors burn and aluminum electrolytics explode through their top). A voltage spike from what? If it is a voltage spike, it is more likely to take out a Semiconductor. To protect the ECU from voltage transients, I suggest placing a Sidactor across the power leads going to the ECU. Beyond that, it could be an over voltage condition (longer duration than a transient) from the battery jump starter for which the ECUs have little tolerance. For that I would install a DC to DC regulator between the ECU power source and the ECU - a robust regulator capable of handling input transients and over voltage conditions. The regulator output keeps the ECU power input a happy 12VDC.
Electrical Engineer here as well - Cars are the very definition of a noisy, spikey environment. I would hazard a guess that EVERY computer would die within a few years if there wasn't adequate protection. Automotive designers also tend to be quite conservative because they have to deal with such a harsh environment in a long lasting product. Considering there would be a good market for repairs I'm surprised no one seems to have found the problem or a fix yet.
Is it possible trying to start the car with the ECUs poorly/intermittently grounded by just sitting on the frame like that could have also contributed?
@@corym.4971 That seems quite likely actually. Because the main ground path is missing the current will find another, likely through a sensor or actuator somewhere (Although they are usually isolated.)
Maybe a capacitor is bad and there could be a transient or noise crashing the computer.. perhaps that's why it's stable until after the first start.
Those lithium jumper packs probably don't accept charge either and the alternator charge circuit could be pumping in a very noisy or over volted supply into the system once started damaging the computers.
@@peejay1981 I am certain if you or I looked at the ECU schematic, we could see the deficiency in the design that makes it susceptible to possible line transient damage. The grounding comment Cory made is also very valid. For something this sensitive, I would want to see a redundant ground strap from the ECU to a ground bonding location.
You can also fail an ECU by removing the positive cable first from the battery. ALWAYS remove the negative cable first.
ERF trucks will do the same - jump start them like another lorry or wrong cable first and you blow all the ECUs
This doesn't make sense. Let's say you have a very simple circuit: a light bulb, connected to a 12v battery. Do you think the light bulb would behave differently when you disconnected one or the other lead first? I don't think so, the electrons will stop flowing and there's even no way of knowing, just measuring at the light bulb, which side was disconnected first.
The same goes for an ECU, when disconnecting the power, electrons stop flowing and the thing turns off.
Here are my thoughts: The sequence of connecting or disconnecting jumper cables is related to safety (avoid sparks in the combustible environment) where most of the metal is connected to the ground points of ECUs etc, so you want to minimize the chances of accidentally touching the positive lead of the jumper box or charger to the metal in the engine (to complete a loop back to the jumper). Otherwise you will create a voltage along the short circuit path that could take out ECUs. Kirchoff's voltage law applies: the sum of all the voltages around a close loop equals zero. So 12V input to a short circuit needs -12V around the loop to satisfy this law. So this could easily take out a polarized capacitor, and a clamping diode may protect the rest of the circuitry. There will be a huge pulse of energy into the system.
I have another idea about jump-starting destroying ECUs: the jump-start current is high so it needs to flow along the path of least resistance to the starter motor. If you do it from the rear of a vehicle where the battery is in the front, then the high current will flow over thin wires producing voltage in the negative direction applied to the ground points of ECUs for example.
My Sunday was going horrible until now, very happy we have a video from Sam!
Happy to help!
Well my Monday(today) was pretty horrible and same here, Mrs upload from Sam cheered me up a little
To weekends in a row, good man. Keep it like this!!
More to come!
@@Samcrac when are you going to drop the viper video?
Yeah but when will he finish a project car. He keeps buying more and more cars
Hey Sam long time subscriber here, and I must say that I like how you are becoming more regular in your video content again. I’ve really enjoyed your channel and everything I just don’t want to see it up and gone like some of the other channels out there. My big wish is to some day actually get to meet you and even wrench on a car with you. Even though I’m not you tuber I am a retired mechanic and would love to help out.
always a good day when Sam uploads
Enjoy!
25:26 Something they don't teach you in Engineering is how "electrons" only generate spikes when they "run the length of the electrical system on the car" ( someone would think the added resistance of the wires would add some protection but no) also remember to fill the blinkers with blinker fluid, and the elbows with elbow grease.
Yeah, a spike is a spike.
don't have to use the right words if you have the concept- something getting too much power/amperage/at the wrong time
issue is probably the cold-start voltage from the jump-pack just being too high specifically for the engine ecu
Long wires do have inductance and rapidly switching voltages applied to significant inductance will generate brief high voltage spikes. That's basic electronics and it's how DC/DC voltage boost converters work.
Really like the colour on this one , lets hope it doesn't need as much work as the last one
The car is a nice blue, much much nicer than his thumbnail that reminds me of the color of my toenail when i once was vacuuming the rug while wearing no shoes while watching tv. Definitely not a nasal escavation related accident trying to get at the spaghetti stringer.
Ever see someone in the shop, and their hands are dirty though their fingertips look clean?
The colour reaks of a birthday gift for the wife of a rich asshole
@@truetech4158 Wtf haha
@@balhaarr I am much the realist.
So much so that i dont overlook the variables that do show alot of potential.
Such as the mention of how to clean your fingertips even if you cant find a proper sink with water and soap.
A viscous snot can used to lift the impacted dirt from under the fingernails, and to the pads of the fingertip should you need to be working with any pendant or computer touchscreens or fingerprint readers on the jobsite in this modern world.
Please learn from my mistakes in cleaning, and wear shoes when you are vacuuming rooms that have a television in them.
TV is harmful.
These shitboxes ALL need work, repeatedly and endlessly. Buy a Corvette or 911 if you want to have reliable fun.
I think what I’ve learned from these videos is that Ferraris are beautiful looking cars and fast but pieces of shit when it comes to any kind of reliability and not worth having. Thanks for the great content and learning experiences 👍🏻 enjoy the content!
@@daandy4899 yup that's why the LS swapped Ferrari makes sense
I had the same feeling.
Only worth the trouble if it's like a pre-elctronic vintage with totally analog stuff. Of course then $$$$$. Nothing more expensive than a beater Ferrari.
Word … every time I think my Toyota Corrola is poop. I’m like … well at least it starts
Yeah. Id never buy a Ferrari after watching these vids.
These videos are interesting and definitely confirm my thought that the electronics in new cars make them disposable garbage after a certain amount of time. It’s really sad
Sam - Regardless of what's happening with your stuff, I can't help but liking the way you present it. You own your mistakes, and finally get the job done. I can't ever drive by Copart in Punta Gorda without smiling & wondering if you've been in there lately. Jay in Ft. Myers.
Very few people own their mistakes. Refreshing...
Howdy neighbor! I live in Fort Myers as well!
At this point I'd just be in the business of making adapter harnesses to run an aftermarket ECU hahaha.
Due to the cost, I'm actually surprised someone hasn't done that already. I know holley makes an ECU system that is direct bolt on, and since basically an ecu does the same job on every engine, why not? I know there will be differences but in reality, they control the air/fuel flow, spark, etc and get information by o2 sensors, crank position sensor, cam sensors etc.
Sure there will be differences between 4 6 8 12 cylinder engines and timing/firing order but really, that can all be programmed in.
I mean they are only small computers after all.
@@muskokamike127 They do even more than that. Haltech and Fueltech (Holley too, probably) have transmission control on the ecu, and can even run the acessories, like the convertible top. I mean, look at fueltech's F355, they converted the convertible top to manual, swaped a gated manual in, put their ECU and the car has absolutely no 'ferrari' issues. Is a solid car. Sam should start to look out for alternatives, i'm sure holley offers something for him to buy to not have to deal with ferrari eletronic bullshit anymore.
@@muskokamike127 I suspect it's a case of replicating all the can/Kline messaging to convince the rest of the car the proper ECUs are present. It's a lot of work for something like an engine computer
@@hassaization I have no doubt it's a lot of programming. Probably less than what goes into a simple video game however.
"If it was easy everyone would do it"
@@PedroBorgesNH Yeah I don't know fueltech or Haltech but I've seen enough videos to see what's possible. B is for Build ran dual ECUs when they swapped in an LS into a Lambo. One for the body, and one for the engine so I have to assume you can program a generic ECU to do both. I mean, they're not apple computers FFS lol.....
You'd have to be some kind of masochist to want to own, let alone own 2 broken Ferrari's. Best of luck, Sam
I think he has 3 ☠️
It's his stepmoms money. He dgaf
I have one broken Mini Cooper. It’s basically the same thing. When ever you go to investigate something broken you find 5 other things.
Nothing more expensive than a cheap Ferrari.
@@getchasome6230 dude is probably pulling at min 40k a month just from UA-cam Ad revenue, I doubt he needs anyone elses money to buy a 30 - 40k broken car.
Car wizard has a video on converting the top to manual i believe. He said it was cheaper to convert it than to keep working on it.
I'm excited to see where this new 360 goes! Amazing that you could potentially get the engine fixed for a couple hours of work and a capacitor or two! Good luck!
You're brave to leave the car unattended after paying for it , anything could have been swapped out ! Always take it straight away.
Sounds like he knows and trusts the seller, not some car he just found on craigslist. Smart practice anyways.
I think your right with the jump pack damaging the cars computer,those things are very sensitive
Hey Samcrac, the car ninja did the same repair on the roof top and it went pretty quick for him. He made a video of replacing it and what he did.
I was gonna mention the same video. Too late now...he already cut the lines.
Of course you can jump start a Ferrari. It also should not matter if you do it from the battery or the from behind the driver's seat. Voltage is Voltage. That said, many jump packs will put out 15V or more and that could actually cause issues. The safest way to jump start would be with another car, another battery, or with a traditional lead acid jump pack. I have not personally seen a high voltage lithium pack cause a problem, but I have hear it's possible. Will be interested to see if anything is blown in your Ferrari computers.
Of course you can jump start any car. However you shouldn’t jump start every car
@@shades360 Tell me why. 😁
@@802Garage The only way to ever jump-start another car safely is with another running vehicle. Those jump packs are in no way regulated like a running car is. Also, ground the ECUs before even connecting the electrical systems. One small spark jumping to the nearest ground is all it can take - we know this all too well from working on computers. Make sure your system/self is grounded before you start plugging things in and out of it.
@@plektosgaming That's simply not factual. It would be much safer to jump start a car with a fully charged battery than with another running car, for example. Because, this would match the starting attributes of starting a car with its own battery. It also means the voltage is lower, 12.6V ideally instead of say 14.3V from a healthy alternator. There is also no current fluctuation and there is no chance of another vehicle misbehaving when the voltage droops due to the start attempt.
Ground the ECU? Are you talking specifically about this video? Every ECU in a car is already going to be grounded. You also don't need to worry about electricity jumping to you unless you are holding a positive connection or touch one and even then you'll be fine. Static shocks while working on computers are hardly even related and are also very unlikely to damage modern components. You can worry about voltage spikes damaging ECU components, but that's totally different.
Voltage is Voltage and Amp draw is limited by a number of factors. As long as you connect
@@802Garage That's assuming you carry a battery with you? Of course a battery that's fully charged at home is the best, but you'll rarely see that in the field. Those little jump packs, though, definitely aren't worth the risk, IMO.
Man you'd think there'd be a bigger market for component level repair on these ECUs. There are so many well equipped techs and engineers in the US that could easily do this kind of work. I'd go so far as to say that there are a number of labs that could probably even duplicate the entire ECU from scratch. I don't know anything about the legality of this but I've seen much more complex units produced to retrofit older industrial machines.
Either way I'm interested to see how this turns out. S U B S C R I B E D
A mate of mine specialises in restoring ICB's - he started out part time, specifically doing Toyota/Lexus ICU capacitor replacements (because 90's Toyota's and Lexus's pretty much all start to get leaky caps at around the 15 year mark), but now he does all kinds of stuff and can repair most things, even a lot of the time LCD screens and such. Often it turns a vehicle that was barely running or won't start at all back into near new performance - or even with factory stereos from horrible tinny sound back to great. He's based in NZ though so not much use for America.
@@Beer_Dad1975 Oh yeah the good ol capacitor pluague.
Thing is, there aren't many of these cars in existence, and even fewer with bad ECUs. It doesn't really pay to spend the time learning how to repair, or to reverse engineer something better. There are zillons of old cars of other makes out there with functioning ECUs that will NEVER fail. The problem, is Ferrari. They make poorly engineered trash.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH in my opinion your take is kinda invalid because apparently ferrari still sold these ecus up until a bit ago. Now working ecus cost a lot since they've been discontinued. By extension now there is an incentive to know how they work to fix them it's just that few want to put in the effort to learn.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH i'd say if the ECUs cost 2k a pop, and you need two of them for the job, that if someone could come up with a solution, they could be making an extra 100k a year on top of whatever they are making at their day job. its just a matter of getting an ECU into the hands of someone capable of engineering a solution. I think emulating the engine comptuer software in a cheap off the shelf chipset of some sort would be fine.
I recommend setting your trailer ramps on top of your lumber to reduce the angle. This has the effect of making the ramp longer and a shallower angle without the danger of the wood coming up and slapping the underside of the car. It also keeps the lumber in place better and makes unloading less sketchy. hth
Should be dead easy to replace a simple capacitor, you don't need an automotive repair shop to do it. Any electronics repair shop with a hot air station (or just a soldering iron with some skill) and some flux can do it. That goes for all the other components on the board as well, as long as they are still available.
Maybe Louis Rossman would be interested in expanding into Ferrari repairs lol.
great video, JL Audio is still top of the line in audio those subs are amazing
Looks like you are using cabriolet hydraulics in Bradenton to fix the cylinder. I used them to fix the latch cylinder in my SL55. The fittings save a ton of time. Did mine 8 years ago and it hasn’t leaked yet.
Yes sir
Great content ! And if I can throw some light on the recurring ECU problem your having then I'm glad to help ......
I own a Seadoo jetski that I was charging while the battery was inside the Ski and I was starting while under charge (big mistake)
So cut a long story short I blew out the ECU (FRIED)
So I looked at a replacement ECU which was very expensive so on further investigation I came across a forum that pretty much explains its a 5 buck repair but quite a bit of labour to strip down the potting on the ecu ? So to work I went and ordered the diode and got a friend who resoldered the diode..... hey presto and we're back working again......
Never give up on finding cheaper solutions
Cooling the exhaust with the water bottle.
Neat trick!
Glad you liked it!
@@Samcrac I'm a fan. I'm a retired technician, fix all my own cars (but not transmission) on the cheap.
I've never even considered that it would be cool to own a Ferrari, but these videos have made this quite clear: When Ferrari tries to do bling, they fail, nearly universally. Hydraulics for a convertible top? Incredibly complex and terribly unreliable computers? When did they forget they were in the sports car business? They need to farm out trim and toys to Toyota or Tesla.
Yep. I note the new Lotus that is now being released has a Toyota V6 in it.
My thoughts exactly, terrible design. These older cars look like kitcars under the lovely body design
Their tops usually look like crap too, style-wise. Pure afterthought.
@@dekkerlundquist5938 This has been the inside secret for years. That the actual Supra was the Lotus, since it was mostly Toyota parts underneath (well before the official "Supra" was on sale. In quotes, since it's a re-badged BMW... Toyota should be ashamed). It's stupid fast, handles great, looks amazing, and Toyota quality. I'd buy a Lotus with 100K on it in a heartbeat as it's all off the shelf Toyota parts. Ferrari should just do the same with their transmissions, water pumps, and electricals. Lotus about 20 years ago figured out that they simply couldn't make a good car 100% on their own any more, so they went with the best in terms of reliability and cost. Get the job done and move on to the test track, as it were.
I've been waiting for a successful Ferrari build from Samcrac... Can't wait to see the finished product!
Lol, don't be mean...
See that in 3...2....never
Finished product lol 😆
That's not the theme of this successful channel....
Still the best UA-camr out there fixing cars !! Professional and direct to the job in hand. No bullshit with u Sam 👌 1st class
Ye ol john deere pulled so many broken cars and it never skipped a beat!
Not any more, they're worst off electronically now than an old Ferrari. And the boardroom runs the company like Apple or Tesla, screw the consumer.
I found that amusing too, mega-bux Ferrari (in its day) being towed by a JD cart. Very fitting.
Considering Lamborghini started out as a tractor company, they would probably be amused as well.
In Europe we never jump start a car... There is a small chance that the ECU will fail in doing so. If we find out a dead battery we put it on leads trough another car or portable charger, leave it for 10-15min until the battery have some juice in it, remove the leads and try to crank it up. Best thing is to replace the battery.
You have obviously put a lot of time into these cars and it’s an expensive learning curve. That whole roof mechanism looks like a complete nightmare. I admire your tenacity and determination……. I would be so bummed out looking at solving these problems but you just keep plowing ahead. Very interesting to watch.
lol I think the car would be worth more if he gutted the whole unreliable automatic roof mechanism headache & converted it to manual. I can see Samcrac fixing it, then having it break again miles from home, stuck 1/2 way between open & close in the middle of a thunderstorm while also leaking hydraulic fluid again all over the interior.......Ferrari
Car Ninja replaced top hydraulics with updated part. Repair seems like a better deal and no total disassembly. Good luck and thanks for the nice vid and content
Hoovie has a buddy ( don’t remember his name) at German Motors that recently did a video on repairing a Ferrari hydraulic tops.
I think Hoovie calls him Ninja
Only the ninja said he’ll never do it again
His name is Johnny.. And yeah James he said he'd never do it again, but you know him.. He'd do it.. lol
Gotta say I’m loving the channel’s direction. These projects are interesting and challenging enough that as a viewer, I don’t need pranks or internet celebrity cameos or anything else. Keep them coming!
@CarNinja has a videos on how to fix that piston for the top.
Hi, SamCrac. We've been your audience for months. You make a lot of good videos! We all love reading your updates.
How do you cope with the stress 🤪 Impressive in every way Sam & Sage! 🙌
I am new to your site. Really enjoy your time that you explain what’s going on with these cars
damn you got me good after 0.1 seconds with that text to speech voice lmfao
Great video Sam, totally enjoyed your expertise and intelligence diagnosing and troubleshooting!
Bro that hand brake almost took your man hood. That was close.
I said ouch out loud when I saw that...
I immediately though jump pack voltage too.
It shouldn’t matter where you connect the jumper. Ideally you should disconnect the computers before connecting a jump pack, once connected the battery will stabilize the voltage and the computers can be reconnected.
Fuel stabilizer is useless once the fuel is turned. It's only useful when adding to fresh fuel to keep it fresh longer
I was start a hoard of Ferrari parts (cpus, relays ect) so when you purchase another you have test parts to diagnose. When I worked at Chrysler dealerships I always had good sensors/Ecu*s in my toolbox to test.
With two Ferrari 360s, Sam can have a race ..... to see which one breaks first.
It will be a tie. Both will break at the same time in a photo finish. Instead of a Prancing Horse logo, it should have been a logo showing Enzo dancing on a pile of cash.
JL Audio is a good brand. They carry all the way from middle of the road to professorial. You would have to unmount the speaker to find out the model. I would say it worth around 100 for the speakers in less, it is one of the top of the line models. The box I think would be hard to find a buying because it made for that kind of car only.
Where is Mustang bro 🤔
Picking it up from paint this week
@@Samcrac these Ferraris are steaming hot piles of shit. After all your problems with the green one, why would you even think about getting another? I enjoy your videos and explaining haw these piles of garbage are assembled, but those engineers are really horrible. Give me an old American car anyway over all this European clunkers. It's only exotic cause nobody wants them in the USA.
I think the Car Ninja replaced that same top actuator on his ex-Hoovie yellow 360 because it was leaking in the same way.
But he managed to unplug the crimped hydraulic lines from the block.
In the video with "CAR NINJA! Final Repair on my Ferrari 360 Spider" title! ✌️
I've learned a lot about old Ferraris from this channel. Primarily I've learned I don't want one. Wow, a timing tensioner that can't seem to last 30k miles. Ferrari: We make parts out of glass but at least we're expensive. Imagine what a Ferrari would be like if it applied Honda durability practices.
Love watching you. Loved the jump start info
best option is to LS swap it. Andrew could probably give you step by step instructions
By far my favourite UA-cam channel love ya work Sam
Wow, never, never leave a vehicle at a breakers yard for even an hour after you have signed the deal - not saying this guy is a crook given you seem to know him pretty well & he gave you a bunch of parts, it's most likely just bad luck/Ferrari quality that is the cause here - but a lot of them are and will swap out bad parts for good if you leave the car untended - got so many horror stories. Those JL Audio speakers were probably pretty good when they were new (JL Audio are mid-high end so OK, not great - Rappers like them because they are very loud and very bass heavy - like Beats audio - if that's the kind of music you listen to then they are good, if you listen to anything else that needs a bit of subtlety in the mid and high range, they are below par) - but looks like they are pretty old so probably not up to a modern mid-level speaker quality.
Alpines > JL and for amps
I thought the same thing , its running when he buys it but problems when collecting it after leaving it unattended. Bad decision.
Lots of progress in this episode, shows what you can do once you start to get familiar with the quirks of a model. Can't wait to see how you get on...
You’re a lot more sadistic that I thought Sam.
As somebody that does component level work to electronics... I'd really like to see in depth exactly what's going on with those ECUs.
Don't overfill the oil Sam! That started the nightmare of the other Ferrari!
The tensioners were replaced. If you look at the one tensioner bolt that you can view, you can see the bolt has wrench/socket witness marks on it. All of the edges of the vertical surfaces of the head have a slight sheen/shine to them. Compared to the flat surfaces. 95% of the socket and wrenches out there contact the edges of a bolt head, not the flat spots. That metal to metal contact polishes the edges.
There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Ferrari..🤣
Sam your videos are getting way more technical. It's like we're learning with you. This is great. Keep it up 😊
you nailed something that most people do not know.... electronic parts, particularly capacitors fail!!! they get old and fail. There are numerous types but most people will see the cylinder and disc types. Below is the non technical way to look at them.
The cylinder types will typically fail with a bulge, you may not notice it but if you look closely at a good one you may actually see which one failed. IF you find one bad one then you should replace ALL of the same type, as they would have come from the same batch and would have a similar life span.
The disc type... well good luck.. some times the break/crack very obvious then other times... well they just fail.
It is common for older electronics to want to have all of your caps replaced. If someone is doing this for you also find out if they have run the ESR on the replacements. A cap can test good for capacitance ... but still be bad and that is where ESR comes in! The person doing the work should know about ESR.
Basically, this era car has a TON of modules, like all expensive cars of this era. As the car and electronics get older you need to re-work the electrical system, find all the ground locations, clean them, make sure the connectors are good, make sure all the boards inside the modules are grounded to the case. Get a bunch of connector cleaning picks and clean every connector, make sure any screws holding down an electronic board isn't corroded. That will fix most of your problems.
Why not just remove the immobilizer?? Also have a question- if I have a mclaren and I want to an the stock ecu and another ecu with a different tune, if I switch ecu’s would I run into this problem?
Try replacing the fuel - before cranking it at all? I'm surprised you did that
Great video Sam love the troubleshooting and detailed explanations 👍🏻 way more interesting than your typical ferrari UA-cam video or car video for that matter
Something I learned is that if you have a manual car with a crank no start and you need to move it, just turn the key while you are in gear. You will jerk a lot but you will move. Good tip if you are stuck in the highway or on a railway track and you need to get out of the way.
...love the colour for Florida! ...and brilliant insight re. the ECUs
TOP TIP - my friends car had an ECU issue and was passed from dealership to dealership and various garages. They had tried the disconnecting battery trick to no avail. It finally ended up at back street garage and a mechanic resolved the problem by disconnecting the battery +ve for 10 minutes and then touched the +ve battery lead to earth for a minute - this drained any residual current left in the system. Hey presto - the car was back to normal!
Another great video. Keep them coming. Would love to see you get this going.
I have no idea about cars but these series are very interesting. Love to follow your progress on all your cars.
If you want, hit up a print shop, and they can make a copy of that fridge graphic and you can have a replica for cheap.
Make one of yourself even you can sell to replace the discontinued other ones.
You heard it hear first, on The Roller Derby.
FYI those ecu can be repaired and will work again. In Australia we have many companies thay fix that style of ecu. They are a poor construction design and they fail. They can be repaired for a fraction of the price of replacement units and you don't need to re flash them.
From what I remember you have to open the driver door to prime f1 pump and also sequence the car start. Also check the grounds again.
I was nervous when you were climbing over the center console. I thought the parking brake was gonna violate you.
On the timing belt inspection with the fiber optic camera and monitor - Did you notice the 'Dayco" stamp on the belt? Contacting the rear side of the belt (closest to the engine block) There is a Head of a fastener directly (apparently) contacting the innermost edge of the timing belt @ time stamp 22:23 of this video.
The Car Ninja replaced that same hydraulic part on his yellow 360 I believe.
Its like your favorite nightmare! Got this sweat deal man, now just rebuild the car the entire car, no big deal. Nice work, impressed with the knowledge on such a complicated vehicle.
The beeps in that car sound like the electric carts at grocery stores 😂
I have been subbed for a while love your content. Great video can't wait until you get everything working on this Ferrari.
Hey Sam I’ve heard that is the case for many modern or exotic cars, we used to turn the headlights and hi-beam (not sure what you call them over there) before hitting the key - could be all myth but might be worth a shot next time 🤷♂️
I replaced a capacitor on my 92 Mitsubishi ECU and it worked (kind of) Actually a technician at a TV repair shop did it for me. The circuit board was double sided which made it extra tricky. I say kind of because the engine started running well, but the trouble light still stayed on. Perhaps that was do to another problem.
About the "voltage spike" frying the ferrari computer while jump starting it...
A 2 dollar lightbulb connected in series for 30 seconds, before you try to jump it, would save these precious computer modules.
When you jump-start them with a long dead battery its not the voltage spike that kills the computer, its the inrush current. Inside the electronic modules you have capacitors. If the cars battery is dead and all those capacitors inside are discharged, there is a significant instantaneous current flow the moment you apply the voltage from your jump pack, so you should first connect the jump pack with a resistor in series for 30 seconds or so to let those capacitors charge up. After you do that, then you can connect the the jump pack normally and continue as you are.
Sam you are the man. Of course I am subscribed!!!!! Very informative. I just did sneak a 2000 360 Modena.....not quite home yet.........but soon!!!!!!
JL Audio makes a ton of different lines of subs, from W0 to W7. Typically speaking, the higher the number, the more the sub cost originally; the version number (e.g. V2, V3, etc.) determine what year/generation it is; then the numbers after that indicate DVC/SVC and ohms per coil (e.g. D4 = 4 Ohm DVC).
Ok Sam, audio is where I can help you. While I can’t know the model of JL subs, I’m sure they fine. You should keep them. The coaxes are garbage. If you want recommendations for those, let me know.
Hi Sam just a little tip on jumping newer / new cars. Before you do anything TURN ON your side lights then put on your jump pack that way and power spike will be sent to a bulb and not to the engine control units. I was taught this by a Audi recovery specialist and I have to deal with jumping new vehicles every day and so far so good I’ve not had a problem 🤞🤞🤞👍
Keep up the entertaining videos I’m always waiting for the next one 👍
Nathan
Is this a hoax
@@mk1ned appears to be a phishing scam
@@ephraker I guessed as much
Many thanks 👍👍
I hope this one doesnt end up with tavarish...I want to see this one get done. Keep at it sam!
You are a very brave man!!! I would not have touched that car!!! Bad Ferraris give me nightmares - even ones that run well.
The failing ceramic capacitor in the ECU is more like a few cents a piece. With access to a wire bonder it could be replaced since you cannot solder into these modules afaik.
Somebody else mentioned this, how are the components attached to the main board?
@@ek8710 I believe they are glued down with a silver bearing conductive glue that is cured. It's way more resilient than soldering.
Just make sure you have a good electronic tech test ecr values and do the cap job. You do not want to deal with lifting traces and then having to run bodge wires. Are they Illinois capacitors? There was a faulty batch in the early 2000’s that are known to go bad.
If the car has been sitting for years without running those timing belts really should be replaced. Sitting in one place for a long time can lead them to take a set and cause failure.
You also really can't inspect the timing belt to determine whether or not it's close to failure. I've seen very good looking timing belts fail due to age or mileage. I've also seen really bad looking timing belts going just fine
The 360 is a solid car when owners stay up with the maintenance. A British man ran one up to 170,000km daily-driving it. It's just that when service warranties expired, a lot of people neglected them. That makes it difficult for people getting one now to chase down all the gremlins that creeped in to repair.
You have a talent for explaining things, I really enjoy your videos
14:51 what a coincidence. just 2 days ago I saw a youtuber repair an actuator that looked "exactly" like this in an older SL55 AMG in place. He removed the cylinder-rod and replaced it. Was leak free afterwards. Cheers