In this video I clean up an old bar that has seen better days with a bar dressing tool. I remove the burr on the sides and clean up the rails to be parallel to each other.
I do as you do. with added steps, I hold a file at about 45 degrees to the rails on the bar and take a a wee bit off,maybe 6 or 8 low pressure strokes. makes a very shallow chamfer, so that the inside of the chain can wear the bar a bit before it starts to knurl over the outside of the rail. also run a thick bladed screwdriver through the slot in the bar to clean the inside edges, of the same knurling effect, , also use that file to true the rails to each other, ,check for chain fit in the slot, and peen the rails together lightly, or use the special bar closing device, works wonders to help you make clean square cuts with little or no saw drift to one side or the other. nice to see some one use that special file, I may get one to do quick clean ups now and then, Thanks.
The length of the tooth being different won't cause your saw to cut crooked as long as you have your rakers filed properly! Don't give ppl false information. To many ppl making saw videos that don't really know what they're talking about.
Stihl makes quite a few of these file guides and they work OK. The main issue is you're using the same part of the file constantly so it wears that part of the file out quickly. I find bar dressing is easily done by hand with a file and drawing the file.
I lessen the wear and tear on the bar file by first using a regular file to knock off the "high" side of the bar rails, and remove any large burs. I will then use my bar dressing tool to get everything EVEN AND SQUARE.
Thanks for the info. Can’t say it is all good advice but it’s your video and your opinion. A bar that bad should be trashed. More dangerous than anything. The time it took us to fix it, could have made the money for a new one. I do like your filling tool. Not sure they make them anymore?
Raker file to clean up the bar on the jobsite works just fine as long as your bar hasn't been neglected like the one in this video. That bar most likely is trash. Don't you know to flip your bars boys?
One WaY to test your saw on the fly if it is cutting cruked is to make a cut with the opposite side of the bar if you can make a straight cut with the top of the bar but it cuts cruked on the bottom your bar need a new dress or a least flip it
I need me one of thos tools..i just use a hand grinder for all my dressing..but the tools a little slow and impractical for the time I need to do it in
That would never work with a Sandvik Bar, their outer laminates are made of very hard spring steel, and would blunt any file. The only method is to use a grinding wheel, set at exactly 90 degrees to the table. Most other bars, especially the solid construction ones, are made from softer metal, that can be filed.
@@tonyiway8574 I’m aware of why he is filing it but there’s not enough bar to get that trench out of the tip. One thing I do know is how to proof read😂. YO
@@NootNoot67 that local stihl dealer doesnt stock it they should be able to order it. Or it's one of "those stihl dealers" Find a gold dealer. Some of the silver dealers are a bit shady. They are more than able to order it. I work at an elite dealer and we are more than happy to order for customers. We dont stock them since we dress the bars for our customers at a good cost. (Part of a repair too)
@@NootNoot67 it comes with a file. But if you are not close to a dealer and like having spares it's nice to have. But I highly highly doubt you'll wear it out quickly, unless you do A LOT of cutting than maybe.
All good stuff. But as with so many videos like this, you take almost 12 minutes to slowly grind through what should have been about a minute and a half. Do we really need to watch while you slowly put your gloves on? ... LOL!
@@bigassslabs-chainsawmillin8461 You can get the same tool and replacement files from Oregon for less if you can live with it not being orange and not saying Stihl. There are also Chinese knockoffs on eBay.
I do as you do. with added steps, I hold a file at about 45 degrees to the rails on the bar and take a a wee bit off,maybe 6 or 8 low pressure strokes. makes a very shallow chamfer, so that the inside of the chain can wear the bar a bit before it starts to knurl over the outside of the rail. also run a thick bladed screwdriver through the slot in the bar to clean the inside edges, of the same knurling effect, , also use that file to true the rails to each other, ,check for chain fit in the slot, and peen the rails together lightly, or use the special bar closing device, works wonders to help you make clean square cuts with little or no saw drift to one side or the other. nice to see some one use that special file, I may get one to do quick clean ups now and then, Thanks.
The length of the tooth being different won't cause your saw to cut crooked as long as you have your rakers filed properly!
Don't give ppl false information. To many ppl making saw videos that don't really know what they're talking about.
That bar is toast
Stihl makes quite a few of these file guides and they work OK. The main issue is you're using the same part of the file constantly so it wears that part of the file out quickly. I find bar dressing is easily done by hand with a file and drawing the file.
That tool is fine for minimal maintenance. That bar needs much more. I use a bench 1 inch sander...works awesome
I lessen the wear and tear on the bar file by first using a regular file to knock off the "high" side of the bar rails, and remove any large burs.
I will then use my bar dressing tool to get everything EVEN AND SQUARE.
That bar is ROACHED!
I wouldda piffed that bar straight into the ocean
Thanks for the info. Can’t say it is all good advice but it’s your video and your opinion. A bar that bad should be trashed. More dangerous than anything. The time it took us to fix it, could have made the money for a new one. I do like your filling tool. Not sure they make them anymore?
Will it do better if you clean side burr first then the top rail
Chuck it away and buy a new one if it's worn that bad the groove has more than likely widened.cant beat a new sprocket,chain and bar .
Also the depth of the groove might be getting too shallow with all that filing and then it won't cut true anyway.
Raker file to clean up the bar on the jobsite works just fine as long as your bar hasn't been neglected like the one in this video.
That bar most likely is trash.
Don't you know to flip your bars boys?
Most people dont routinely flip bars usually the same people making videos on here lol
One WaY to test your saw on the fly if it is cutting cruked is to make a cut with the opposite side of the bar if you can make a straight cut with the top of the bar but it cuts cruked on the bottom your bar need a new dress or a least flip it
Mark Young crooked...
I need me one of thos tools..i just use a hand grinder for all my dressing..but the tools a little slow and impractical for the time I need to do it in
I’m trying to figure out how that happened to your bar. I’ve never had a bar get that bad.
A loose chain will cause excess wear near the tip, as you see here.
Nice vedio
Replace that bar please!!!
Why replace it, if I can fix it?
@@NootNoot67 Because he can't fix it
each gloves is this? looks good
That would never work with a Sandvik Bar, their outer laminates are made of very hard spring steel, and would blunt any file. The only method is to use a grinding wheel, set at exactly 90 degrees to the table. Most other bars, especially the solid construction ones, are made from softer metal, that can be filed.
You can do this with a raker file in thirty seconds, but why? That bar is junk!
Why do u say its junk
Silas Dozier look at the massive dip at the nose of the bar! It’s beyond it’s useful life. I’d also bet that the guides are blown out also.
@@larryreno8293 yo know nothing...thats why he is filling it so that it can be used even for a short time
@@tonyiway8574 I’m aware of why he is filing it but there’s not enough bar to get that trench out of the tip. One thing I do know is how to proof read😂. YO
Can't find that tool on the Stihl website. Part number? Thanks.
5605 773 4400
Only get from a dealer!
Replacement file
5605 773 4200
@@mattstanford6571 Local Stihl dealer does not stock these. Do they come with a file, or do I have to order the file separately.
@@NootNoot67 that local stihl dealer doesnt stock it they should be able to order it. Or it's one of "those stihl dealers"
Find a gold dealer. Some of the silver dealers are a bit shady. They are more than able to order it. I work at an elite dealer and we are more than happy to order for customers. We dont stock them since we dress the bars for our customers at a good cost. (Part of a repair too)
@@NootNoot67 it comes with a file. But if you are not close to a dealer and like having spares it's nice to have. But I highly highly doubt you'll wear it out quickly, unless you do A LOT of cutting than maybe.
All good stuff. But as with so many videos like this, you take almost 12 minutes to slowly grind through what should have been about a minute and a half. Do we really need to watch while you slowly put your gloves on? ... LOL!
Vintage is better! Do you agree?
It's walking in the cut because your no longer 50 mm...go get you a new bar.
Where do you get the replacement file for that tool,or do you just throw it away?
davidgrza I haven’t had to get a replacement file yet, but I believe the file itself can be purchased from Stihl
@@bigassslabs-chainsawmillin8461 You can get the same tool and replacement files from Oregon for less if you can live with it not being orange and not saying Stihl. There are also Chinese knockoffs on eBay.
put it on toast and eat it
Dude, that bar at the nose is nackered, throw it in the bin.
take it to the scrap then it can be recycled