When A Chainsaw Bar Needs To Be Replaced!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Ever wonder if you should replace your chainsaw bar? In this video I show you exactly what to look for so that you don't need to guess!
Proper chain tension and good bar oil is the key to prevent wear and tear and make your chainsaw bars last longer!
The three major brands of chainsaw bars I recommend are CANNON, OREGON and STIHL.
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Proper chain tension and good bar oil is the key to prevent wear and tear and make your chainsaw bars last longer!
I have a question, my chain gets loose even if get a new chain the screw is all the way but it won’t tight anymore. What do I do should I get a new bar ?
@@josepadron30 Yes possibly, make sure you have the correct chain for bar.
I do
Same number but even if the chain is new starts getting loose little by little and I keep adjusting it till can’t adjust it anymore and is just all loose.
Check the tensioner, the worm gear and screw can strip out, feels maxed out, but may be hitting a stripped thread and will not turn
I work at a stihl dealership and all bars come with what looks like a “burnt” edge. It’s actually not burnt they heat them up and harden them so they are less vulnerable to early wear.
Under the paint, there is some manufacturing " heat" marks, for assembly, and tempering. But... a tip , whether rollomatic, or hard nose, can be over heated during use, under certain conditions, and usually makes the bar or tip, bluish, and unserviceable at that point.
Tremendous and accurate information. No music or other distraction.👍
Amen to that! Cant stand these content creators that feel the need to subject us to insipid music in the background. Also despise fast fwd’g! Good comment Elaine!
Also, he gets right to the subject matter with a long repetitive intro or unnecessary “humor” or unrelated garbage. Much appreciated.
Hey thanks. Never knew I could learn so much about a subject in such a short video. My hat is off to you for excellence in presentation.
Don, I always find the clarity of your videos impressive. Most UA-cam instructional videos for small engine repair have poor, out of focused shots and the information given is rather haphazard. Your instructions have helped me immensely. Thank you.
thanks Sean
Thank you DonyBoy. After doing research for awhile I finally found the reason my chain was cutting even right after sharpening. Thank you again you saved me some big bucks and headeaches from now on. You are the man
A great video. I did not know about the oil holes on the rear and the gease hole near the sprockets. I think I definitely need to replace the bar and maintain them based on your video. Thanks a million!
I understood that the "burning" on the bar edges is actually induction hardening. If you take the paint off a new Stihl unused bar you will see "burning" an indication of induction hardening. Can't speak for other manufactuers but Stihl does this to increase the life of their bars.
You 2 stroke videos lately have been great Don. Thanks a lot.
+Bruce Pender thanks Bruce, yours are great too
Where that blue line is isn't burnt it's the temper line of the rails
Best video I have found on when to replace a guide bar and all of the signs to look for. Well done, sir!
Only thing I saw missing was to look at the channel in the bar and make sure the guide rails are flat and even. Wear on one rail will cause the saw to cut to one side.
2:55 that’s exactly my problem. Thanks sir!
Every time you sharpen your chain, flip your bar over. It helps them wear evenly.
Custom Southern Arms
Flip it once a year, that’s enough. Or flip it each time to replace your chain
That is way over kill. Even if you you run your saw a full 8 hours, once a day is plenty.
Before I learned to sharpen my chains, I use to go and buy new chains until I got tired of them building up.I have a Stihl, and a Poulan and the latter gave me better service. The Stihl stayed in the shop too much under warrenty and out of warrenty as well. Right now it needs to go back in once more for repairs. I never let my bars get in the condition of those I saw in the video and would quickly replace them if they had any of the damage you showed.
That Stihl bar is blue around the perimeter from from the factory. It has been heat treated, it's then painted. You wear the paint off and it's exposed.
eriedawg Thanks for the info. I got my saw hot with a dull chain and thought I’d burned up the bar when I saw the blue line under a paint chip 👍
👍
@toto222ist maybe it got to hot for the paint, but not to hot to damage the steel.
Ever seen a bar without a front bar sprocket .. I can tell you there was one there when I started.. thanks for all the tips
yes actually some old bars had no sprocket even when new
To compile a few things about apparently healthy bar-rails that act up: chain must ride with side-straps on the rails, not drive-links on groove bottom; rails must be of even height to avoid cutting circles- can be leveled with file or bench-grinder; burrs outside rail can snag in a cut, and can be easily filed off. In the first case, bar is used up. Likely also with spread rails.
Wow look atchoo! Impressive
Nice comment Jacqie
Great video.....now I know why even a new chain still cuts poorly....my bar is shot! Thanks
I can't believe how some people misuse and abuse machinery, they shouldn't be allowed to own machines! Apart from stuffing it up it becomes down right dangerous John
I really enjoy your videos. You do an excellent job explaining various procedures and diagnosing problems. I often refer to your channel when I come up a piece of equipment that has me stumped.
I used to use bio-chainsaw oil, never again, every summer the oil drain would block and then in winter had to put diesel in the tank to get it clean, off course diesel is nasty stuff when you're chainsawing but it unblocks the oil system.
Top off the bar oil, but fill to less than full tank of gas- that way you run out of gas before you run dry on bar oil.
great idea..!
If you saw is operating properly it should run out of gas before the oil runs out.
All saws are designed to run out of gas before oil if you fill up with oil with every tank but a lot of people dont
Excellent tutorial.
Whit this tight chain as you showed in the video I burnt out my bar after 5 uses. No try to be on loose side and it’s way better
Tip grease holes are on both sides of the bar. Grease 'em both.
Why? The grease goes straight through. 🥴
Always wondered how tight to do the chain, thanks
really great tips on bars , lots of info , spoken like a true bushman, thanks donny
Wish you'd talked a bit more about burs on the side of the bar and how to remove then evenly.
Good post.
Very good advice.
Thanks for the info!
What about the “witness marks” on the sprocket teeth?
Love the video !!! why would the bar ware on one side of the groves please as one side is lower then the other
I agree with Wild Willie - I sure learned a lot in the short time it took to watch this video. I'm not well informed when it comes to chainsaws but it's clear to me that I haven't been cleaning mine enough. I have a question, Don, that might reflect my ignorance. I have three chains that seem sharp to me but their length has increased through usage to the point that I can no longer get them tight enough. Would you explain to me why it is not advisable to remove a link or two? I must be overlooking something - probably obvious to the more knowledgeable. My chains have 50 drive links. Why can't I reduce that down to 49? Or is it a doable practice?
If your tip is splayed, and your sprocket is loose, if you keep using it it may take off through the woods like a ninji star.
I have used nothing accept used motor oil as my bar oil for 20 years and have never had a problem
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thanks a very useful video I learned a lot
Thanks. Great info.
love your videos man, I'm just getting into saws cause my buddy started a tree service so i went to my local still dealer and bought a ms 311, its not huge to some people, but to me it has some serious go-nads...the yellow chains kick hard as hell, whenever i hit a not...but i wish i bought a pro grade saw so it would last me longer in the field, but being 19 and broke doesn't help me out all that well lol
stihl** damn auto correct
good start though, you're still young
How do you know if the spur teeth are safe??? Thanks Donyboy....!
What if your chain doesn't move freely even when loose. Mine feels like it's gummed up. I keep my bas clean and very well maintained, same with my saw.
It could be gummed up, check out my new video on a similar issue! have a good weekend!
Great video, will be helpful soon.
the tip on the new scrench's are cut as to be able to run the tip down the groove of the blade and clean the groove!!! most dont know that
Awesome video. Love your accent!
Comprehensive, covered the bases. I learned a lot, thanks!
great, thank you ...
I never replace my since new it’s burnt to limit but still going strong
I can usually close the bar gap once or twice, before it just becomes no good. Bought one of the old Bailey bar rail closers, not too good at all. Vice grips, a 1/2 " at a time , works way better.
I HAVE BEEN USING chainsaws for 0ver 40 yrs. thought I knew pretty much everything. You can teach something to even the most experienced person. I always thought that a curve cut or one that goes sideways was the fault of the chain....... uneven sharpening, etc. Thanks
good video. thank you
Donny, when poking around for help it is always a relief when a video pops up and it is by you. I'm pretty much guaranteed that this will be my last stop and I'll get the info I need. Thanks for a lot of great videos.
thanks
@@donyboy73 when you replace the bar and chain do you need to replace the sprocket
@@chinlaiyo9565yes sometimes you do
You are the "BEST", Thanks I've learned so much from your channel;
Wow - you really do a great job with these videos. I've learned a lot - Thanks!
I'll clean a bar for a customer when I do that, I make sure the grooves are clean and I make sure to clean out the sprocket on the end. I'll use an amsoil lubricant and shoot the tip of the bar and lubricate the track on both sides take my compressed air and blow out the tracks then I'll shoot air at an angle on the sprocket and get the sprocket to sing a loud whining pitch then install the bar and chain.
Thank you! You did a great job with your presentation and I learned a lot.
I would be too embarrassed to bring in a bar like that never mind even do that to a bar. Come on now even a little common sense its seems is uncommon. LOL
+STEVE ROB yes common sense is sometimes uncommon
What if my bar has a slight amount of verticals play ? I think we pushed my husky way past it’s limits last time
good tips
Love M.T.L Canada Merci wow 😮
This an older video, but one tip to reduce wear is to pre-oil the bar groove on new bar or cleaned bar before use.
Yep clean bar track out even during cutting to
Great point. Bars aren't that expensive either. Makes no sense to run a messed up bar or chain. Anyone that has any power tools know a dull blade is ridiculous to run,,, no difference with a chainsaw bar and chain.
Another great video. Good content, to the point and clearly presented. Thanks !
Currently fighting my ms170 as it cuts about like crap. Chain seems sharp. Bar not messed up. Still overheating after cleaning oil ports. Out of ideas
Good video Donny,have you ever replaced just the tip on the 2 piece bars,how about a video on that.
31 yrs if climbing, cutting, and chainsaw maint. Where are these people? They getting big miles out of this garbage!😆
I got my chainsaw bar stuck in a tree. Tried using an axe to remove it. A dewalt sawzall actually worked like a champ. Who would have knew!
Hello- I’m terrible at UA-cam searching. Stihl ms250, new aftermarket chain doesn’t fit in the groove. Do you have a way of “opening it up” ?
Thank you, John
It took 9 years to finally wear out my Stihl bar.
Thanks Donny enjoy your helpful video's very much, I myself replace the bar and chain every few years never had a problem.
Such useful videos. I would like to make a question. Using old car engine oil as bar oil has any affection on bar or cutting? i'm saying this from recycling-reusing point of view.
it's hard on the oil line and pump on newer saws and the bar will wear out quicker
Not a good idea. I doesn't have the same lube properties and bar oil is tacky. Helps it stick and not so easily thrown off by centrifugal force.
Great video! I watch quite a few and your video is very informative and useful with safety tips for the users! Thanks
I've learned so much from your videos. Thank you.
Just had an idea, say you have an 050 bar and the groove wears, you could switch to 058 chain and when that wears switch to 063😂
Nice video
My saw has a button to push to oil the bar if don't push will it still get oil
+Shawn Cartee some do and some don't
I have a stihl farm boss chainsaw. The oil pump works fine and fills the channel on the top of the bar with oil but hardly any oil comes off the tip of the bar in fact most of it gets slung around the clutch housing is there something wrong with my bar?
That discoloration at the edge is part of the manufacturing heat treat procedure you just can’t see it because the paint is covering it.
l,m learning as much as l can before l start using my chainsaw but what l would like to know do you ( l ) slacken the chain after using it/ putting it away until the next time that l want to use it
you are so right..people dont realize a bad bar can keep your chain from cutting properly..I loaned a saw out and when I got it back all chains were dull and I noticed the bottom edge of the bar was blue. I told the guy ..you should fill the oil reservoir everytime you fuel the saw up...apparently he did not since he burnt the bar. Next time I used the saw after sharpening all chains, it still didn't cut good. so I flipped the bar over to the good side and it cut fine. I guess I will have to buy a new bar and just keep this as a back up since it has one good side. I wont loan my saws anymore ..everytime I do, they are destroyed or I have to repair them!
One time when I wasn't home a friend came by to borrow a saw..he happened to grab my saw with a very aggressive chain ($50 chain) he then used it to cut the roof off a building they were re-roofing. it came back with broken teeth and missing teeth...He never replaced it..another reason not to loan good tools out.
Hey donny,first off...thanks for setting up this excellent channel.you really have no idea just how much money you have saved me over the years so thanks for that:) i have just put a new piston in a partner k650 and was wondering how should i run it in?
+thanxx use more oil for the first few tanks
As soon as the gap is widened or the bar is bent just bin it and get another one it’s not worth the hassle of how they don’t cut right it slows the jobs down to much
Anyone prepared to suggest the best chain brand to use on my Stihl saw?
Can you make a video for choosing after market parts for Stihl chainsaws? I have an old 024AV that needs a piston and cylinder and when I looked on ebay and Amazon for parts, there were too many choices. I need some guidelines to follow so I can get decent quality parts without breaking the bank. I use my saw around the house and not as a professional so I don't need top quality. Thanks.
The rim sprocket and the bearing have to be checked regularly for wear too. It's better to check how many washers are in the original design because is possible to lose them over the time like my used ones.
Washers? Where?
That Is What Happens When The Chain And Teeth Gets Too Loose. It Will Come Off The Bar. Attack Them And Cut Their Legs. That Is Called Major Damage. This Is Extremely Serious Duty. Just Make Sure The Chainsaw Is In The Off Position When They Tight The Chain Up. It Is Extremely Important Directive. That Means Without The Chain Coming Off The Bar. That Is Absolutely Proceed With Caution.
Hi just wanted to know that when l finished with the chainsaw and want to store it away until the next time do l slacken the chain off or leave t how it is
Hi Don
New to your channel. I like it. Quick question. Can you fix a pinched nose on a bar? Thanks.
I don't bother
My old bar needs replaced but not sure if it can be. It is the original bar on Stihl 034av that I bought in 86. What I’m looking for is 18” 3/8 63 gauge 66dl sprocket nose. I really like the hard nose, don’t think I’ve ever cut firewood with out pinching the tip.
So how do you fix the bar edge when it's worn? Also, don't use grease for the spocket tip unless used regularly. IMO, oil from the chain is sufficient. I've NEVER worn out the sprocket tip using chain oil.
I can't believe how worn those bars are.
Thank you for this video. Now I know.
Can I replace or upgrade a 16” bar with .050 chain gauge as a set to my Milwaukee M18 that has a set of .043 chain gauge with 16” bar?
Your video is very helpful, informative. With my chainsaw, when cutting through larger, 12-14 in. logs, the cut wants to curve so it is t a straight and even cut. What causes this? My bar has no burrs, unusual signs of overheating. When I lay it on a totally flat surface, I see a very small wobble side to side when on one side but not on the other suggesting a very slight warp. Might this be the cause? Thanks very much for the video and your response.
If the bolt that hold the sprocket on the bar is protruding
I just replaced both my bar and my chain today, and within about 4 or 5 logs, it was cutting right again. I sharpened the chain again, tried again and after a cut or two it was back to veering right. What could be wrong???
First off, it's a BAR and chain. Not a blade. And if your knew chain is not cutting after a few cuts, it's dull! Best why to keep your chain sharp, is to not cut dirt. Learn to file.
Another basic I was taught-- flip your bar routinely. Some say as often as every tank of fuel.
Spread the wear over both edges.
Just be ready when someone ribs you because the logo on the bar is upside down.
Hi, i have a original stilh 16 inch bar and 55 link chain, on a ms180. after some time, my chain got so long that even if i thight it to the maximum, the chain is still hanging : the chain is too long. the bar is slightly blue. that the second time it happen, when the teeth of the chain are 50% ok, but the lenght make it unsuable. i check and clean the bar for the oiling regularly.
my sprocket also got some damage, i never heard anyone complaining about a chain getting longer to the point it cannot be thighened.
Any advise ? i got my chainsaw jam in trunk many time, had to pull it by force, could that be a reason of the chain getting longer to the point it is unsuable ?
If you lay a flat edge on the side of the bar, the cutters should not be able to pass by the flat edge without catching on the flat edge. If they do not catch the flat edge, this indicates the driver groove is worn too wide. A groove that's worn too wide will tend to stop cutting partially, completely or inconsistently.
Stellite weld bead is added to the rail tops on many quality bars and especially the tip radius of hard (sprocketless) barsto make them wear resistant. You can identify the normal discoloration of the parent metal remaining once the paint is worn away, so pay attention.
Can Aviation fuel 100 octane can it be used in a Stihl chainsaw the fuel is ethanol free and my Stihl 250 starts on the first pull every time using it.I use the 50 to 1 mix and the Aviation fuel last a long time I've left the Aviation fuel on my still for 3 year's and it still started on the first pull. I told my local Stihl dealer about using the fuel he was telling her was surprised I haven't burned up the piston I've had at least 15 hrs on this saw still running knocking on wood.
Your saw shop guys don’t know what they are talking about. Higher octanes don’t have higher combustion temperatures. Higher octanes just resist preignition from higher compression better. The only way more heat is created is by using a fuel that has higher energy.
Avgas has a very high lead content. Rots your brain. OK for odd use but not continuous. @@jayss10
True that, but if memory serves the aviation 100LL (low lead) has 25% of the lead levels of auto gas from the 1970's. I do get your point about the fumes though. I'd also check the plug often for any signs of lead fouling.