Your video was SOOOOO AMAZING. It was very throughly explained. But what really made the video above and beyond supero was how you made the briefs step by step walkthrough of what “we had done”. I loved it. I’m about to do this on my Pontiac GrandAm 2004. Thanks!
Thank you so much Sir! this video was very helpful, I will be completing this project on the base this afternoon and wasn't to sure. you have simplified this project in such a major way! Thanks again
Very much appreciated Jim, crystal clear instructions, A pleasure to watch. Im off to change mine now, My neighbours will think im mad rolling around on my icy driveway.
Last time, when I found my 04 Accord's power steering was hard to move during the winter morning at the first cold start, I watched your video of changing the o-ring. It took me less than $5 for the new o-ring and 10 minutes to get the job done. No hard steering anymore. This time, I am lucky that I found your video again for the tie rod replacement. The problem of my accord is the vibration feeding back from the accelerate paddle when the vehicle accelerates above 60 mph. The vibration disappears once the vehicle moving at a constant speed, even at 70 mph. The only thing I found is the inner tie rod boot damage with grease outside. I will follow your video to do the job next week and report the results once I have. Thanks for your time for sharing this video as well as others. Wish you a wonderful holiday.
This channel always has solid and useful info, no BS, straight to the point, and especially like the positive tone which is always there. This was the only video I could find on crimping the washer on the inner tie rod end (and I watched probably a half dozen of OK sources) - Jim showed it & explained it very well. Also kudos for giving options on how you can tackle tasks with handtools vs powertools. Thanks, tie rod ends replaced successfully! Jim the car guy
Thank you. Used your video and rented tie rod tool from parts store. Very straightforward. I had to reuse my ring on the inner tie rod, for 2010 Honda pilot, no other variances. 1 hour start to finish including set up and clean up and taking my time.
One of the best described videos of a repair that I've seen. Thanks for sharing your information. I love the prelude describing the diagnosis of the problem (ata 1:35) and then most of the tools that you were going to use (from 1:55 to 2:30), then a quick description of how you will do the work before you actually do it, then you do the work, and then you recap/summarize what you did at the end! Between all those segments you sometimes cover something that was missed in an earlier segment... pretty darn thorough. I am looking to tackle this project on my 2006 Malibu Maxx and I do have a few questions: (1) One of the tools that you didn't really cover, was the one used to remove the "clip/snap ring" at the front of the bellows from 8:45 - 9:35 in the video? It kind of looks like a thick coat hanger with a bent end. (2) At 17:55 to 18:05 you show some kind of stem on the bellows that you say needs to be connected to a hose and at 22:20 you describe this stem as a "vent", but I never saw in the video how that was connected nor how it was removed at 10:35. It just looked like you yanked the belows off without detaching that "vent" without regard for it. (3) At 18:25 to 18:30 there is an inner zip tie that magically appears in the video on the back of the bellows - I think this is the harder of the 2 zip ties to install because it is obscured by the bellows + I think you need to align it over a certain element of the bellows without being able to see exactly whether it is in the right place or not. You have the car jacked up on a pro-lift and I'm sure that is going to be more difficult when I'm lying under the car with 12" of space between the car and the floor!
He's working on a Honda but doesn't say what model Honda. the procedures wont be exactly the same on a Chevy nor will the tools used, Most Honda's use metric sizing for nuts and bolts vs SAE" inch sizes" for US cars. I doubt that Chevy models use the same lock washer ring that Hondas use. It's best to look for the same make and model, if possible, for your own car. I drive a Civic so in general, its nearly the same but some things will still be different between models. Its seems that most people that do these videos all have tools and lifts that most of us dont have,
Cool video & very helpful for all the young guys at home wanting to work on their car & aren't sure if they should attempt replacing parts themselves to learn & also save some coin $$$ Thanks to Mechanics like you matey we home guys can achieve & work on our cars without all the stress 😊👍 Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍺🕺
Jim, I have a 2010 Accord V6 auto. I have a significant side to side shake that comes on at about 55mph. I have new tires (~5 months old), I've had them rebalanced twice. I've also had an alignment. When I first took it to a mechanic, they told me my brakes were bad, so I replaced my all of my brake/rotors. Shake didn't get better. Then they told me it was my CV joints, so I had those replaced and the side to side shake got better for a hot second. It's back in full force, I don't know if it was because my car cooled overnight and didn't feel a shake. I'm at a loss.
Great video! what would it cost What would it call to do the outer tires on the 2012 Armada Nissan?? Thank you for sharing these very valuable videos how to do-it-yourself but some of us unfortunately can't do it.
You should always torque an inner tie rod to the manufacturer's specifications. Over tightening the nut can deform the knuckle, and using the wrong tool, like an impact gun, can cause premature wear and damage.
I echo the last guy's comments You should be a shop teacher you understand the difference between teaching someone and just saying here's what you do and for that I very much appreciate you
Hey I changed the inner and outer tie rods on both sides and had to move the rack and pinion steering to get the inner tie rod tool in the inner ... now I have tracition control lights on and don't know if an alignment will center the rack and pinion can you comment in this sir?
Great video One thing I noticed, you did not use the penetrating oil properly. In order for the oil to penetrate deep within the threads, do you need to let it soak for a minute or two and then spray it one more time, wipe off the excess and then give it a go. Doing that, adds an extra layer of protection to those bolts and also makes life a lot easier for you
Shit one more thing I noticed is you should always get a white sharpie or even a crayon or something to mark the nut on the tie rod so you can actually drive to the shop to get the alignment done
Some people install the outer tie rods in from the top like you did (with the castle nut on the bottom) others from underneath (with the castle nut on the top) does it matter as long as the orientation of the steel (the curve is correct?)
Great How to! But I have a problem with mine, 2001 Honda Prelude SH ordered the Moog Inner Tie Rod (EV800296) it didnt come with lock washer and no indented area either.
I think there was a piece missing . Check out the picture of what it should come with. The lock washer should be included. Google Moog EV800296 for a picture
jimthecarguy That Moog inner tie rod has 2 different pictures from Moog website 1 with lock washer (all black) and 1 (gold/black) without washer. Local auto part store only had gold/black. I installed it anyways with blue thread lock, hope it holds. Thanks again for this how to!
Could another possibility of a bad inner tie rod show symptoms although mine doesn't come back and forth. I noticed I was able to swing the inner tie rod left to right up and down really easy with no resistance. Can that still mean it's bad?
Hello Jim, is it necessary to use lock tight on the inner tie rod end where it connects with the steering rack as long as I peen over the lock washer? Thanks.
Everything was done as 'book says' - even washer was bent what I was waiting for ..this is often forgotten as on another guy's video watched few minutes ago..Only 1 thing missed. Proper torque to tight that up..anyway everything was explained so well and aeasily.
I have to do this job on my 99 Honda CR-V. I found out you can "borrow" the tie rod special tool and tie rod press for 48 hours at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's auto parts. They charge a fee ($87 for the special tool, $10 for the press) but you get it back when you return the tools.
2005 Honda CR-V, my inner tie rod tool is too short to remove the inner tie rod. My CR-V doesn't have big bellow boots (10:40). What size is your tie rod tool or what do I need, Jimthecarguy. Had no problem using my inner tie rod tool on Accord & Civic.
You mean if you did not take note of the turns to get it off? You would have to do it by eye as best you can and make sure you don't go too crazy driving to the shop to get it aligned. It isn't going to throw you off the road if you are bit off as long as you are not bombing down the highway at 100.
I was thinking the same thing. The video skipped over that small segment. And I think the back one is harder to put on and tighten than the front one, because of its location.
Should have used a torque wrench when tightening ,blue Loctite as well .Taking a measurement of the tie rod's length would be a good idea also as aftermarket threads could be machined differently and give the wrong length when going back together .
I was wondering is there any problem to put the castle nut upside down and hit it with a hammer to get the tie rod out? I think that's a better way than hitting the knuckle if I don't have that special tool. But most of the videos on UA-cam don't use that method.
Good question but no because you may damage the threads . This way works perfectly without doing any damage. Check my Amazon store to see what tool s are used to remove the tie rod end.Thanks for watching
I’m changing both inner and outer, on one I have the outer tie rod end stuck inside the inner tie rod. I got the nut loose and broke it from the knuckle but it seems to be seized in the inner, any tips ?
Good job young man, you did a great job with the camra , so many just talk and can't see a thing! I 75 and doing this to my 2003 Merk . Thanks
Thank you Dan for making my day "young man" I love it.
Your video was SOOOOO AMAZING. It was very throughly explained. But what really made the video above and beyond supero was how you made the briefs step by step walkthrough of what “we had done”. I loved it. I’m about to do this on my Pontiac GrandAm 2004. Thanks!
YOU ARE A VERY GOOD TEACHER, AND YES YOU ARE ALSO EXPLAINED IT IN A RIGHT WAY, THANKS AND THE IS BLESSED.
Thank you so much Sir! this video was very helpful, I will be completing this project on the base this afternoon and wasn't to sure. you have simplified this project in such a major way! Thanks again
Finally found a video with a smart person changing anouter tie rod. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped!
Very much appreciated Jim, crystal clear instructions, A pleasure to watch. Im off to change mine now, My neighbours will think im mad rolling around on my icy driveway.
Last time, when I found my 04 Accord's power steering was hard to move during the winter morning at the first cold start, I watched your video of changing the o-ring. It took me less than $5 for the new o-ring and 10 minutes to get the job done. No hard steering anymore.
This time, I am lucky that I found your video again for the tie rod replacement. The problem of my accord is the vibration feeding back from the accelerate paddle when the vehicle accelerates above 60 mph. The vibration disappears once the vehicle moving at a constant speed, even at 70 mph. The only thing I found is the inner tie rod boot damage with grease outside. I will follow your video to do the job next week and report the results once I have.
Thanks for your time for sharing this video as well as others. Wish you a wonderful holiday.
Thanks for the extensive explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
You sir are a born instructor.
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.
This channel always has solid and useful info, no BS, straight to the point, and especially like the positive tone which is always there. This was the only video I could find on crimping the washer on the inner tie rod end (and I watched probably a half dozen of OK sources) - Jim showed it & explained it very well. Also kudos for giving options on how you can tackle tasks with handtools vs powertools. Thanks, tie rod ends replaced successfully! Jim the car guy
Thank you. Used your video and rented tie rod tool from parts store. Very straightforward. I had to reuse my ring on the inner tie rod, for 2010 Honda pilot, no other variances. 1 hour start to finish including set up and clean up and taking my time.
I've watched at least 7 videos... This is the most helpful so far. Thank you for saving me $300
Jim, Great video. Your explanations are clear and thorough. Your recap (at the end) of what you did is great. Keep up the good work! I am impressed.
Thanks, will do!
One of the best described videos of a repair that I've seen. Thanks for sharing your information. I love the prelude describing the diagnosis of the problem (ata 1:35) and then most of the tools that you were going to use (from 1:55 to 2:30), then a quick description of how you will do the work before you actually do it, then you do the work, and then you recap/summarize what you did at the end! Between all those segments you sometimes cover something that was missed in an earlier segment... pretty darn thorough. I am looking to tackle this project on my 2006 Malibu Maxx and I do have a few questions: (1) One of the tools that you didn't really cover, was the one used to remove the "clip/snap ring" at the front of the bellows from 8:45 - 9:35 in the video? It kind of looks like a thick coat hanger with a bent end. (2) At 17:55 to 18:05 you show some kind of stem on the bellows that you say needs to be connected to a hose and at 22:20 you describe this stem as a "vent", but I never saw in the video how that was connected nor how it was removed at 10:35. It just looked like you yanked the belows off without detaching that "vent" without regard for it. (3) At 18:25 to 18:30 there is an inner zip tie that magically appears in the video on the back of the bellows - I think this is the harder of the 2 zip ties to install because it is obscured by the bellows + I think you need to align it over a certain element of the bellows without being able to see exactly whether it is in the right place or not. You have the car jacked up on a pro-lift and I'm sure that is going to be more difficult when I'm lying under the car with 12" of space between the car and the floor!
He's working on a Honda but doesn't say what model Honda. the procedures wont be exactly the same on a Chevy nor will the tools used, Most Honda's use metric sizing for nuts and bolts vs SAE" inch sizes" for US cars. I doubt that Chevy models use the same lock washer ring that Hondas use. It's best to look for the same make and model, if possible, for your own car. I drive a Civic so in general, its nearly the same but some things will still be different between models. Its seems that most people that do these videos all have tools and lifts that most of us dont have,
Hey Jim, awesome video about how to change the inner and outer tie rod. Keep posting such incredible videos. Thanks for posting such amazing videos.
😂Best explained car repair vides..Thank You Jim.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very well explained I only had to watch this one time. Thanks a lot.
Using an air gun makes the job a lot easier so go for it! You make it look easy Jim.
Hi Wyatt,Sometime its just easier with the air guns.Especially at my age.Lol
Cool video & very helpful for all the young guys at home wanting to work on their car & aren't sure if they should attempt replacing parts themselves to learn & also save some coin $$$ Thanks to Mechanics like you matey we home guys can achieve & work on our cars without all the stress 😊👍 Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍺🕺
Very true! Thanks for the visit.
Can I also know the specific names of the tools that you used while changing inner and outer tie rod?
Jim,
I have a 2010 Accord V6 auto. I have a significant side to side shake that comes on at about 55mph. I have new tires (~5 months old), I've had them rebalanced twice. I've also had an alignment. When I first took it to a mechanic, they told me my brakes were bad, so I replaced my all of my brake/rotors. Shake didn't get better. Then they told me it was my CV joints, so I had those replaced and the side to side shake got better for a hot second. It's back in full force, I don't know if it was because my car cooled overnight and didn't feel a shake. I'm at a loss.
You got short changed by those bastard mechanics
This is absolutely the best mechanical video I have seen. Thank you!!!
Every other video I've seen the guy had a torque wrench for the lock nut and castle nut....but as I suspected snug/wrench tight will get er done!
it seems like OTC has been kicking the competition in the tool market lately
You right about there marketing.
Excellent explanation. The Best demonstration in the UA-cam. Thank you
Thank you! It's a very professional way.
Great video! what would it cost What would it call to do the outer tires on the 2012 Armada Nissan?? Thank you for sharing these very valuable videos how to do-it-yourself but some of us unfortunately can't do it.
You should always torque an inner tie rod to the manufacturer's specifications. Over tightening the nut can deform the knuckle, and using the wrong tool, like an impact gun, can cause premature wear and damage.
Great video. Was wondering and those plastic zip ties. Will they last long?
What if you can't afford the inner tie rod tool? Are u able to take it off with wrenches?
Thank you for the great instruction.
I echo the last guy's comments You should be a shop teacher you understand the difference between teaching someone and just saying here's what you do and for that I very much appreciate you
Thank you for your kind words.
Hey I changed the inner and outer tie rods on both sides and had to move the rack and pinion steering to get the inner tie rod tool in the inner ... now I have tracition control lights on and don't know if an alignment will center the rack and pinion can you comment in this sir?
Outstanding video well explained...gonna give this a try ASAP
Great video
One thing I noticed, you did not use the penetrating oil properly. In order for the oil to penetrate deep within the threads, do you need to let it soak for a minute or two and then spray it one more time, wipe off the excess and then give it a go. Doing that, adds an extra layer of protection to those bolts and also makes life a lot easier for you
Shit one more thing I noticed is you should always get a white sharpie or even a crayon or something to mark the nut on the tie rod so you can actually drive to the shop to get the alignment done
@Glitch The Cat what does it matter ge didn't reinstall the part that would be marked, he counted 18 threads of engagement, that's as good as a mark.
Thks , will be doing this exact procedure and alignment after 👍
Thank you for such a detailed video Jim u saved me 400 bucks😊
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Great Work 👍🏾✊🏾... I am now checking your other uploads!
Awesome! Thank you!
does the 2nd zip tie replace the snap ring you took off?
Hi Jim, what is the part # of the tie rod remover tool that you used? I couldn’t find it in your Amazon shopping account. Thanks!
great video. I got estimates of from 2,3 Hours for the job. cost- 250.00-400.00! not including alignment.
Is that a otc tool jim
Some people install the outer tie rods in from the top like you did (with the castle nut on the bottom) others from underneath (with the castle nut on the top) does it matter as long as the orientation of the steel (the curve is correct?)
Yes it does matter. You should always install them the way that they came off.Thanks for watching.
Do you have a video showing how to remove and replace a rack and pinion for a 2002 DOHC Ford Taurus or similar ?
Sorry no but the procedure in this video is the same. ua-cam.com/video/vvvCWN0pQwg/v-deo.html . Thanks for watching
How much would you charge if a customer purchased all parts needed to do a job like this? Along side lower control arms
Great How to! But I have a problem with mine, 2001 Honda Prelude SH ordered the Moog Inner Tie Rod (EV800296) it didnt come with lock washer and no indented area either.
I think there was a piece missing . Check out the picture of what it should come with. The lock washer should be included. Google Moog EV800296 for a picture
jimthecarguy That Moog inner tie rod has 2 different pictures from Moog website 1 with lock washer (all black) and 1 (gold/black) without washer. Local auto part store only had gold/black. I installed it anyways with blue thread lock, hope it holds. Thanks again for this how to!
@@ngengok how'd it hold up?
@@unclefreddieDied still holding good!
Could another possibility of a bad inner tie rod show symptoms although mine doesn't come back and forth. I noticed I was able to swing the inner tie rod left to right up and down really easy with no resistance. Can that still mean it's bad?
Hello Jim, is it necessary to use lock tight on the inner tie rod end where it connects with the steering rack as long as I peen over the lock washer? Thanks.
On this car it had the peened washer on the threads. But cars without this feature could use a little loctite.
Best and most thoroughly explained! Thanks bub
Glad it helped!
I had pressure oilers holding the arm in so I can make it home I threaded the bolt 2-3x already.
Everything was done as 'book says' - even washer was bent what I was waiting for ..this is often forgotten
as on another guy's video watched few minutes ago..Only 1 thing missed. Proper torque to tight that up..anyway everything was explained so well and aeasily.
you were watching, chris fix's video,i know!
Man, this video helps. Thanks for posting this
Great video with a lot Information!
Glad it was helpful!
I put a new outer tie rods on 03 Honda Accord but the tie rods hit the ram when I turn.. what do I do
I have to do this job on my 99 Honda CR-V. I found out you can "borrow" the tie rod special tool and tie rod press for 48 hours at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's auto parts. They charge a fee ($87 for the special tool, $10 for the press) but you get it back when you return the tools.
I an tackling the same job in a 2004 cr-v bone of the rental tools are long enough do you ahve a part number ?
You dont need that tool.
2005 Honda CR-V, my inner tie rod tool is too short to remove the inner tie rod.
My CR-V doesn't have big bellow boots (10:40).
What size is your tie rod tool or what do I need, Jimthecarguy.
Had no problem using my inner tie rod tool on Accord & Civic.
Another great video Jim, thanks so much. Where are you located?
thank you. My shop is in New Jersey.
Great Video! Question why must the spacer on the inner tie rod be punched?
Awesome and helpful video! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
What's the length of the punch that you used to hit or close the inner tie rod lock washer? Also, what brand?
How long does it take to replace both sides including the alignment?
Real good explanation very helpful better than others videos. Thanks!!
Is da tie rod end causes power steering to fail after installing da new one?
good video Jim, what kind of penetrating oil did you use, WD-40?
I do use the WD40 and PB Blaster both work well.
Beautifully explained. Thank you
great video, very clear and really helpfull. Many thanks.
Well explained
Thanks for watching.
When these are bad will they leak oil? About to do control arm change thinking of doing this also
No when a tie rod goes bad it will not leak oil. it will be loose. I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
tnx for d video my question is what f there is leaking on the oil from d rack end , is there posible a repaire o replacement in hw
What if a person forgot to tell if he turns on the tie rod when you're taking it off how do you get it back square again
You mean if you did not take note of the turns to get it off? You would have to do it by eye as best you can and make sure you don't go too crazy driving to the shop to get it aligned. It isn't going to throw you off the road if you are bit off as long as you are not bombing down the highway at 100.
why did you hammer press at front and back ? thanks .
Awesome video!!
What year is this Honda?
thank you for the video very educational .
Nice video, thank you Jim.
I'm happy to share my knowledge.
I HAVE A QUESTION MY CAR LEAKS OIL IN THE INNER SIDE BY THE PLASTIC COVER. DO I HAVE TO CHANGE THE RACK IN PINION.
This is helpful. Thank You!
You're welcome!
Very good Vid once again.
Glad you enjoyed it
How hard is the same job on a 2000 Monte Carlo?
How u put the zip tide on the back?
I was thinking the same thing. The video skipped over that small segment. And I think the back one is harder to put on and tighten than the front one, because of its location.
Awesome video
Thanks for the visited
Thank you for the video
Should have used a torque wrench when tightening ,blue Loctite as well .Taking a measurement of the tie rod's length would be a good idea also as aftermarket threads could be machined differently and give the wrong length when going back together .
Yes that is true that is why I alway do a wheel alignment after the repair. Thanks for watching
Hi Jim how is that work light you use does it blind you because it is bright in all directions. Just want to know before I buy one.
Thanks Jim
I was wondering is there any problem to put the castle nut upside down and hit it with a hammer to get the tie rod out? I think that's a better way than hitting the knuckle if I don't have that special tool. But most of the videos on UA-cam don't use that method.
Good question but no because you may damage the threads . This way works perfectly without doing any damage. Check my Amazon store to see what tool s are used to remove the tie rod end.Thanks for watching
Jimthecarguy Thanks for your knowledge. I really appreciate it.
Best tools of car
I’m changing both inner and outer, on one I have the outer tie rod end stuck inside the inner tie rod. I got the nut loose and broke it from the knuckle but it seems to be seized in the inner, any tips ?
Just soak it with rust busted and hope for the best.
Great video and explanation, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks again Jim for another great video.....
Thank you for stopping by the shop
What brand of Parts did you use for this job
I just had my right inner tire rod replace. does that mean it was replace on the driver's side or the passenger side?
likely passenger
Amazing, thank you
Soo helpful!
The tie rod ends are upside down
Sir, you are a good teacher ver detailed!!
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Thanks Jim
Good job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great stuff. Learned a lot from your video Mate. Well explained and well executed. Really appreciate🙏
how is that outer tie rod so easy too twist off there because mine wont turn that easy havent got it off yet
You are right sometimes they can be very rusty.
another great video Jim
Thank you
Good video.
Glad you enjoyed it