What Has Surfing Taught You? - Happy International Surfing Day
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2024
- WHAT HAS SURFING TAUGHT YOU?
An International Surfing Day Q&A
presented by 5-Hour Energy "Summer of No FOMO"
Produced by Travis Ferre’ & Nathan Myers
Edit by Brandon Scott & Nathan Myers
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FEATURING
Brad Gerlach @waveki - Filmed by: @michaelcukr
Cliff Kapono @cliff_kapono
Kelia Moniz @keliamoniz - Filmed by: @mattkuji
Cole Houshmand @cole_houshmand - Filmed by: @shane.kreutzer
Greyson Messier @Greysonmessier - Filmed by: @lograp
King Nicol @kingnicolsurf - Filmed by: @yadin_nicol
Ivy Miller @ivuss
Ben Bourgeois @bennyboosh - Filmed by: @pittedphotography
Nat Young @nat_young - Filmed by: @jonahsaffran
Sawyer Lindblad @sawyerlindblad - Filmed by: @jacobvanderwork - Спорт
How to deal with grumpy people who think their needs and wants will be fulfilled by a wave.
It thaught me that surfers outside the water al quite relaxed, but in the water complete assholes, behaving like they are surfing the WSL finals on 2 ft waves.
It taught confidence when it came to personal performance.
I’ve never liked team sports throughout my life. My parents put me in soccer and had to pay a quarter every time I kicked the ball. Never made a cent Ha! Kids would rush with all their energy and ferocity at the ball while I was looking down at the grass for bugs. Things still haven’t changed. Through highschool, I saw kids play all sorts of sports and they would go off to their meets or practice right after school. That sounded like torture to me. As soon as school was over I would go home and fiddle with my plants or aquariums. Only in softmore year did I find surfing. After that, my close friends and I would all go bodysurfing and I found my little “sport clique” I realized. Later on, in 2021 I started taking surfing more seriously.
Now, at 23 I have trouble walking correctly after 2 back injuries in shorebreak in highschool that have caught up with me. So, my goal is to be able to surf again one day and bask in the gladness that I found my own sport I can enjoy with or without company.
❤
The ocean can be scary. Strong currents. Big outside sets. Vertical drops sucking out beneath you. Surfing has taught me that when you're afraid, it's actually safer to move towards that fear. You can't outpaddle the current, but you can use the rip to your advantage. You can't outrun a big set, but maybe you meet it halfway and slip under the lip. You can't make the drop unless you put your head down and commit. Sounds like "surfy speak" but I've carried those same lessons into every other walk of life. Still learning though... fear is scary. Ha.
Patience.
There's always a new challenge behind the last one
That you can’t force things
aloha happy international surfing day 🌊
its pretty simple - it teaches you aloha 🌊
@@CC1984_ true, but it should teach you aloha 🌊