I´ve been following your career ever since your Pipe bomb. Nate Florence talks highly about a giant NIAS session telling everybody that you were the only one charging that day. Amazing shot. Thanks for the upload.
Great hearing that experience Matt. 2 days ago was sitting in the Sobatu channel had 2 of the local Nias chargers on the back of the ski watching the first big swell of the 24 season roll through spitting 8 to 10 foot + dragon breath barrels. I was telling them of you the frontier guys who came and charged the place. Your story brings back great memories. (Rip, Brad M. and Mikala J.) Good luck and great surfing ahead Matt.
@@MattBromleySurf yes it was that last swell, also the big outside left across the bay . Need you guys to give the confidence to the locals as yet no experience in that size and water volume as yet. But they charged the late take offs tippy toe landings into stand up s that fired off the point last week. Was great to see them charging and ruling the big double sets. Great stuff👏
I took the boat here one time. 6-10 feet and perfect. Paddled out, looked over the ledge of three waves, almost got cleaned up by a 10 footer and paddled back to the boat. No thanks 😂
I'm jittery. I'm getting too old. Past 40 the body changes. I'm incredibly amazed when I see Michael Ho at Pipeline, getting tubed, the guy is like 65 yrs young.
Honestly most of the time I see these "worst wipeouts" videos they're just not that good, but your storytelling is absolutely fantastic, I was hooked the whole time and that is even as a fairweather surfer with very little experience surfing big waves or reef breaks. Going to be watching the rest of these, cool to see good content from a less well known creator.
Full respect dude. You're a total bunker !! I've seen the wave from the boat and.... grrr same feeling as Teahupoo on big days. Not for the faint hearted. True warriors deserve tributes. Big up !!!
you're an amazing storyteller Matt, just sitting here behind my laptop in Belgium, I can feel the adrenaline going through my body, just by listening to your story, that hardly ever happens to me. Thanks, glad you got out of it in one piece!
omg dude. that waves reef sounds ridiculous. is this really good story telling or an exaggeration ? there's no way i'm paddling out into waves that are that hardcore ! good luck mate. it's insane. i'm wishing you luck.
Love this type of content. There so much unknown to those of us who aren't pushing it like this. It's amazing to hear what actually goes down in great detail. Good stuff! Looking forward to more.
A very articulate description of pure terror! Props for also acknowledging the similar bravery/madness of the photographers swimming around to capture the moment.
I have surfed some biggish waves and always remember thinking or saying as I paddled into them, it's death or glory, and sometimes death is closer than you would like to realise. A great example of total commitment and understanding that this may be the wave of your life, hats off to you Matt, I am impressed that you chose a big one then took off and made the drop. I hope you have many big waves left in you, well done.
What a great story. I remember learning how to surf in the early 70's in Ventura CA. I finally started to get pretty good and had not experienced big, sucking surf before. I paddled out into perfect 8 foot, top to bottom barrels and saw for the first time that this was some heavy stuff, this wasn't some 4 foot point wave. And that surf was nothing compared to what these guys surf. Incredible.
Just curious where (you don't have to be exact) in Ventura that was? I surfed Ventura a lot as a kid in the 80's and 90's and got some heavy waves at a number of different beach breaks and one very spooky absolutely firing rivermouth. Found myself on more than one occasion thinking woops, maybe I shouldn't have paddled out. Good times!
@@Bryan-jd7os At Ventura Pipe. A typical strong N/W ground swell hitting at a low, upcoming tide. Add the cold winter offshores blowing down the avenue to make it perfect. Yes the rivermouth is heavy and Solimar Reef can scare the hell out of you as well.
Matt! This video was so awesome... it's amazing to hear about the details of what happens on a wipeout on waves like this. Whenever there is drone footage of big waves i am always trying to see what happens to the person inside all of that... but it always gets cut and goes to the next ride. We need more content of what actually happens! Thank you for this. Can't wait for the rest of the episodes in this series
Great story. Was feeling a little nauseous as you were speaking. Having hit the reef myself at Bingin several years ago, I can still hear that cracking sound as my elbow split wide open.... Stay safe man. thanks for posting and sharing. Wow! 🌊🌊🤙🤙😎😎✌✌🍻🍻
Great story. That photo is epic. Glad you didn’t get shredded over that reef. The speed and surge picks up over the shallow reef and it’s a violent and scary time for sure.
Great story! I surfed Nias in April '78 with 4 crew (Lee Cooper from QLD, Chris Simpson from WA, and Clive and Sid (?) from Bondi NSW. New moon swell peaked at at 8-10' (consistently double to occasionally triple overhead). Pre-earthquakes it was a much less challenging, but still beautiful wave. We watched that outside wave barrel and wondered if it was surfable, but the end section looked too dangerous. In '78 medical help was even more remote than it is there today.
I'm not the kind of person to forget the exhilaration of fear , but good god man, it must be quite a ride to be willing to even think about going twice. Cool story, bro. most surf stories don't involve actual blood and conquest over death. I'm very glad mine don't , sand bottom only for this child.
You did a good job keeping your wits about you, not easy to do when Mother Nature has you.. big waves and a clear head go a long way together Best of luck! Keep surfing
Great story well told! Glad you were relatively unscathed considering what could have been. That wave does look absolutely massive in the photo. I mean, you don’t impress me as being a small guy so you can tell from that one photo where you’re relatively unrighteousness how much taller the wave is.
Fantastic story bra....Reminds me of a wave in Caribbean..down the reef from a popular spot...The Boneyard..double overhead bigger krazy hollow sucking off shallow end of the reef..lines roping in from north atlantic- Bermuda triangle..caught inside..alone...luv every minute of it...most lokes don't believe it cuz reef bends out to see so can't see it proper from beach...I live for this..would luv to check out Sobatu..lemme know when you're goin bra-I can jump on a plane easy..
First time i surfed Nias in 1980 was on my own and no one else out to see where the takeoff spot was, yes badly caught inside 10/12ft sets start rolling in paddled straight up the face got pitched backwards trying to throw the board away from me.....ouch😢
Great story. Jim Banks paddled into enormous Ulu’s in the 80”s, documented and Tom Carrol and Ross Clarke jones also paddled a 20ft day south Java a long while back too. People having been charging indo undocumented for many years.. Big call by tracks claiming biggest paddle in ever..
Damn that's heavy. Glad you lived 😂 My buddies went there years ago and saw that wave, they assumed it was unrideable since no one was out on it and there were like 50 people in the bay. Based on what you just explained is out there probably best they didn't have a go at it, I mean they are good surfers, but not at your level in big waves
I'm sure I speak for all surfing lovers, can we see more of this wave, the reef, the line up from a drone, overheads shots, underwater shots etc etc.. Love to see more vids of this wave being surfed from all angles..
Meu Deus, gigante e perfeita. Incrível o tamanho, perfeição e profundidade deste tubo insano. Esse cara deve ter ficado submerso por mais de 60 segundos em baixo da água sem respirar... Nias é Foda! Muito Foda está onda.... A melhor direita do mundo...
Great story, nearly drowned at Nias proper, only around 8 ft but super thick back in 86 pressed into the reef with my board on the bottom also, your talking indicators or further around ?
Solo bodyboarded a right in Sumbawa that was to the left roughly 5 kms of Lakey peak ( maybe south) that resembled this wave. It was massive and barrelled down a reef with a river mouth on the inside. Giant big blue lines coming in like mountains with no one around. I caught some waves including a bomb that i just bottom turned that was intense and almost getting barrelled and charging into the channel to save my life. Crazy power in those big waves.
Surfed that spot or near it in 2000. Locals called it X's or something like that. Much deeper back then but that reef ledge was still there, especially on low tide.
I had a similar experience on Simeulue Island North of Nias Island not as big but when the random gost sets come in that take every one by surprise it can be terrorfiying be caught inside on a shallow reef
Back in the days before earthquake 2005 the wave that scared most of people surfing Nias was name Indicators and it was showed you the set that was going to hit the point , a few guys was surfing it because it was so shallow and there was a rock on the end section , Christophe my mate was a well know charger at the time and he was sometimes lonely surfer to surf there and get some incredible ride and tubetime , this bomie seems to be another level
What about ‘indicators’. When Nias is too crowded. Super dangerous reef after the earthquake. I caught 8 footer, I was so scared. I survived thd pummelling but as I was paddling back out the next set drained all the water and I was completely dry stuck on the reef about 10 seconds before the wave obliterated me. Two days later my entire left quad was black from bruise among others, but thankful I did not hit my head.
Wear armor dude. If you get hurt there, there is no help. I've seen it there a few times, you have to get back to Sumatra. Haven't been there since the earthquake.
Ive had something similar in hurricane 🌀 season, 10-15-20-30 foot set for about 30-45 min set. After caught one paddling in and was like "what was that?"
What the heck, that photographer is a legend to. Swimming out there in that. I reckon they are crazier than the surfers they filming. They sitting in the impact zone the whole time.
Unbelievable story by an unbelievable surfer!! Matt, please give us more of these. You are a great storyteller!
Really appreciate this thank you!ore to come!
I´ve been following your career ever since your Pipe bomb. Nate Florence talks highly about a giant NIAS session telling everybody that you were the only one charging that day. Amazing shot. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks so much man! Really appreciate it !
I had anxiety listening to this. Full send, glad you're around to tell the story.
You never know unless you go …you went and you know. Epic description of your experience. Humbling. Aloha
Great hearing that experience Matt. 2 days ago was sitting in the Sobatu channel had 2 of the local Nias chargers on the back of the ski watching the first big swell of the 24 season roll through spitting 8 to 10 foot + dragon breath barrels. I was telling them of you the frontier guys who came and charged the place. Your story brings back great memories. (Rip, Brad M. and Mikala J.) Good luck and great surfing ahead Matt.
Woooow wish I was there to share that with you guys?! Was it absolutely firing??
@@MattBromleySurf yes it was that last swell, also the big outside left across the bay . Need you guys to give the confidence to the locals as yet no experience in that size and water volume as yet. But they charged the late take offs tippy toe landings into stand up s that fired off the point last week. Was great to see them charging and ruling the big double sets. Great stuff👏
I took the boat here one time. 6-10 feet and perfect. Paddled out, looked over the ledge of three waves, almost got cleaned up by a 10 footer and paddled back to the boat. No thanks 😂
Ha. I would have done the same thing.
Hahah amazing. Thanks for sharing. I don’t blame you. So terrifying out there!
I would have s**t myself whilst still in the boat.
I'm jittery. I'm getting too old. Past 40 the body changes. I'm incredibly amazed when I see Michael Ho at Pipeline, getting tubed, the guy is like 65 yrs young.
Honestly bro U can still say U surfed it ..
Been able to admit that sometimes nature wins I just as catching it. 💪 Man shit right there 👍🍻
So humble that you show your fails!
Glad you lived to tell your story. Balls of steel. Subscribed.
Cheers from Aus. 🍻
Really appreciate it thank you!
Honestly most of the time I see these "worst wipeouts" videos they're just not that good, but your storytelling is absolutely fantastic, I was hooked the whole time and that is even as a fairweather surfer with very little experience surfing big waves or reef breaks. Going to be watching the rest of these, cool to see good content from a less well known creator.
Thank you so much for this! Means a lot!
Full respect dude. You're a total bunker !! I've seen the wave from the boat and.... grrr same feeling as Teahupoo on big days. Not for the faint hearted. True warriors deserve tributes. Big up !!!
It really is a terrifying place!! Thank you
you're an amazing storyteller Matt, just sitting here behind my laptop in Belgium, I can feel the adrenaline going through my body, just by listening to your story, that hardly ever happens to me. Thanks, glad you got out of it in one piece!
omg dude. that waves reef sounds ridiculous. is this really good story telling or an exaggeration ? there's no way i'm paddling out into waves that are that hardcore ! good luck mate. it's insane. i'm wishing you luck.
Damn!!! Incredible story! I've got a few of my own, but that tops all! So rad. Stay safe, bro!
Love this type of content. There so much unknown to those of us who aren't pushing it like this. It's amazing to hear what actually goes down in great detail. Good stuff! Looking forward to more.
A very articulate description of pure terror! Props for also acknowledging the similar bravery/madness of the photographers swimming around to capture the moment.
You are a super star and a great spokesman for big wave surfing. More please.
I have surfed some biggish waves and always remember thinking or saying as I paddled into them, it's death or glory, and sometimes death is closer than you would like to realise. A great example of total commitment and understanding that this may be the wave of your life, hats off to you Matt, I am impressed that you chose a big one then took off and made the drop. I hope you have many big waves left in you, well done.
Great story Matt and you seem like a normal down to earth guy. No axe or ego to grind. Take care and good luck from South Africa.
Loved this video! Good storytelling and nice to have the footage
What a great story. I remember learning how to surf in the early 70's in Ventura CA. I finally started to get pretty good and had not experienced big, sucking surf before. I paddled out into perfect 8 foot, top to bottom barrels and saw for the first time that this was some heavy stuff, this wasn't some 4 foot point wave. And that surf was nothing compared to what these guys surf. Incredible.
Just curious where (you don't have to be exact) in Ventura that was? I surfed Ventura a lot as a kid in the 80's and 90's and got some heavy waves at a number of different beach breaks and one very spooky absolutely firing rivermouth. Found myself on more than one occasion thinking woops, maybe I shouldn't have paddled out. Good times!
@@Bryan-jd7os At Ventura Pipe. A typical strong N/W ground swell hitting at a low, upcoming tide. Add the cold winter offshores blowing down the avenue to make it perfect.
Yes the rivermouth is heavy and Solimar Reef can scare the hell out of you as well.
Wow - incredible video Matt. I was at Nias in 1988, before you were born. Amazing story telling. Glad you made it. 🙏🙏
Really enjoyed this. Keen for the next one
The fact that you stood up till the end, made the sick shoot, but you put yourself in a sketchy situation. Well done
... That edit just earnt you an instant subscriber Matt .. looking fwd to that wave of your lifetime in the future mate 💪🙏
Legend!
that is probably the best video I have seen. really good description of his experience.
Thank you so much!!!!
Matt! This video was so awesome... it's amazing to hear about the details of what happens on a wipeout on waves like this. Whenever there is drone footage of big waves i am always trying to see what happens to the person inside all of that... but it always gets cut and goes to the next ride. We need more content of what actually happens! Thank you for this. Can't wait for the rest of the episodes in this series
Legend thanks so much!
Great story. Was feeling a little nauseous as you were speaking. Having hit the reef myself at Bingin several years ago, I can still hear that cracking sound as my elbow split wide open.... Stay safe man. thanks for posting and sharing. Wow! 🌊🌊🤙🤙😎😎✌✌🍻🍻
Great story. That photo is epic. Glad you didn’t get shredded over that reef. The speed and surge picks up over the shallow reef and it’s a violent and scary time for sure.
Absolutely insane my friend!! Im glad youre still alive too!!
Epic , honest story telling at it's best . Love your work Matt . Yew .
Caught inside in Indo; most scared and throttled I've ever been. So this was triggering for me! Glad you made it out, mate.
Loved the story, incredible wave glad you made it. Good luck getting that wave!
Thanks for sharing this, loved listening to the detail of such an intense experience.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your mindset is really really inspiring, epic wave and story thanks for sharing ! Gnarly to think of ending up on that reef
Great story! I surfed Nias in April '78 with 4 crew (Lee Cooper from QLD, Chris Simpson from WA, and Clive and Sid (?) from Bondi NSW. New moon swell peaked at at 8-10' (consistently double to occasionally triple overhead). Pre-earthquakes it was a much less challenging, but still beautiful wave. We watched that outside wave barrel and wondered if it was surfable, but the end section looked too dangerous. In '78 medical help was even more remote than it is there today.
Beautiful camera work and great narration. It was really interesting to hear what that's like from a surfer's actual experience and perspective.
Gnarly story mate. Glad ya safe and still carving
Thanks Matt, looking forward to the next one!
You're beyond gnarly. Going no matter what. Heavy heavy experience. Big respects.
Epic Bru! Cheers for sharing.
😎 I really like this guys style. No trip or airport waste of my time no travel to the break just what the header says “wipeouts” I’m subscribing.
Heavy AF!! Glad you survived. Good story
I crapped my pj’s listening to this ! Thanks
Was just chilling but now on clean up mode
😂
This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect. 🤙🏼
I've just shit my pants from the comfort of my sofa. Huuuge respect Matt.
Epic yarn Matt, had us on the edge of our seats.
So cool to hear about that spot. I've seen it while watching videos of Nias and wondered if that was good. Unreal wave.
I'm not the kind of person to forget the exhilaration of fear , but good god man, it must be quite a ride to be willing to even think about going twice. Cool story, bro. most surf stories don't involve actual blood and conquest over death. I'm very glad mine don't , sand bottom only for this child.
Epicenter 🔥 thanks for sharing your perspective Matt🤙
You did a good job keeping your wits about you, not easy to do when Mother Nature has you.. big waves and a clear head go a long way together
Best of luck! Keep surfing
Great story well told! Glad you were relatively unscathed considering what could have been. That wave does look absolutely massive in the photo. I mean, you don’t impress me as being a small guy so you can tell from that one photo where you’re relatively unrighteousness how much taller the wave is.
Awesome, thanks for the inside track of it all. More please!
This is a great series. Really looking forward to the rest of the episodes!
This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect.
Really appreciate the words! Thank you!
Loving these kind of war stories. Greatly told too!
Fantastic story bra....Reminds me of a wave in Caribbean..down the reef from a popular spot...The Boneyard..double overhead bigger krazy hollow sucking off shallow end of the reef..lines roping in from north atlantic- Bermuda triangle..caught inside..alone...luv every minute of it...most lokes don't believe it cuz reef bends out to see so can't see it proper from beach...I live for this..would luv to check out Sobatu..lemme know when you're goin bra-I can jump on a plane easy..
Sounds both amazing and scary as hell. Wow.
That was an awesome story and footage, sounds terrifying.
Love this Matt. EPIC:) that experience sounds shocking:) :) ...
First time i surfed Nias in 1980 was on my own and no one else out to see where the takeoff spot was, yes badly caught inside 10/12ft sets start rolling in paddled straight up the face got pitched backwards trying to throw the board away from me.....ouch😢
Awesome story, glad you pulled it off safely! Aloha from Hawaii 🤙🏽
Great story. Jim Banks paddled into enormous Ulu’s in the 80”s, documented and Tom Carrol and Ross Clarke jones also paddled a 20ft day south Java a long while back too. People having been charging indo undocumented for many years.. Big call by tracks claiming biggest paddle in ever..
Loved this. Great story telling. Is this your favourite wave?
Damn that's heavy. Glad you lived 😂 My buddies went there years ago and saw that wave, they assumed it was unrideable since no one was out on it and there were like 50 people in the bay. Based on what you just explained is out there probably best they didn't have a go at it, I mean they are good surfers, but not at your level in big waves
New sub, great video. You are a savage and I can’t wait to see more vids like this one!)
Epic Matty!! More of this!!
The first shot that I saw you had no vest made me cringe until the end. Visceral story. Cheers.
Oh my God man starting off with a bang. I mean you took that one right on the chin. RLTW 3/75
Good job mate. Humility will take you a million miles even with the heavy stones….
I'm sure I speak for all surfing lovers, can we see more of this wave, the reef, the line up from a drone, overheads shots, underwater shots etc etc.. Love to see more vids of this wave being surfed from all angles..
Meu Deus, gigante e perfeita. Incrível o tamanho, perfeição e profundidade deste tubo insano. Esse cara deve ter ficado submerso por mais de 60 segundos em baixo da água sem respirar... Nias é Foda! Muito Foda está onda.... A melhor direita do mundo...
Shot it in 1997 pre EQ. Sketch! Thanks for this.
omg....'the chance of something BAD HAPPenING." Glad you survived to tell this tale....!!
now go see a SHRINK!!!
Was this the swell were the boat was trying to get tubed backwards!!!??
Great story, nearly drowned at Nias proper, only around 8 ft but super thick back in 86 pressed into the reef with my board on the bottom also, your talking indicators or further around ?
it´s further past indicators
Solo bodyboarded a right in Sumbawa that was to the left roughly 5 kms of Lakey peak ( maybe south) that resembled this wave. It was massive and barrelled down a reef with a river mouth on the inside. Giant big blue lines coming in like mountains with no one around. I caught some waves including a bomb that i just bottom turned that was intense and almost getting barrelled and charging into the channel to save my life. Crazy power in those big waves.
I remember walking round from the point once, and seeing that wave, and some strange ruined buildings, and sand miners.
That amazing story,,, even in the i still can imagine the shaking hand after the bomb, nice surf experience
Surfed that spot or near it in 2000. Locals called it X's or something like that. Much deeper back then but that reef ledge was still there, especially on low tide.
I had a similar experience on Simeulue Island North of Nias Island not as big but when the random gost sets come in that take every one by surprise it can be terrorfiying be caught inside on a shallow reef
Back in the days before earthquake 2005 the wave that scared most of people surfing Nias was name Indicators and it was showed you the set that was going to hit the point , a few guys was surfing it because it was so shallow and there was a rock on the end section , Christophe my mate was a well know charger at the time and he was sometimes lonely surfer to surf there and get some incredible ride and tubetime , this bomie seems to be another level
What about ‘indicators’. When Nias is too crowded. Super dangerous reef after the earthquake.
I caught 8 footer, I was so scared. I survived thd pummelling but as I was paddling back out the next set drained all the water and I was completely dry stuck on the reef about 10 seconds before the wave obliterated me.
Two days later my entire left quad was black from bruise among others, but thankful I did not hit my head.
Wear armor dude. If you get hurt there, there is no help. I've seen it there a few times, you have to get back to Sumatra. Haven't been there since the earthquake.
Great storytelling in this vid.
What size board?
Great narration!
That was absolutely a treat thank you very much for putting that together what a life and death story that got my heart pumping God bless you
Thanks so much!!!!
I was indo when i saw the pic of that wave and literally gulped when I saw it. Scary stuff over a cheese grater reef.
Thanks for sharing that. Glad you survived gnarl balls
I agree with the other poster Matt you made me feel like I was there., Don't get hurt for a good wave Matt
Pure stoke coming through loud and clear.
Ive had something similar in hurricane 🌀 season, 10-15-20-30 foot set for about 30-45 min set. After caught one paddling in and was like "what was that?"
Okay that's still shots at 6:30 in are just freaking Epic. RLTW 3/75
😅I was mesmerized listening to this. 😮😮😮
you are very fortunate to be in one piece
thank you Jesus!!
The story is spinning me out
FKNG INCREDIBLE. THANK GOD U SURVIVED MATT. BALLS OF STEEL
Did Alex get one?
What the heck, that photographer is a legend to. Swimming out there in that. I reckon they are crazier than the surfers they filming. They sitting in the impact zone the whole time.
As long winded as this yarn is I enjoyed it - it’s all relatable if
you’re a surfer.
Great Surfer-Great Story Teller!