I like your videos in general and also this one. I don't agree however in your suggestion to go and try bike sizes at the local shop for then buying online. The local shop can afford to let you try bikes because people buy their bikes. Trying bikes is a service they offer for free, but I feel it should be rewarded buying a bike, if a good one is found. Leaving the shop for buying online to save some dollars/pounds/euros is lame.
I think he meant that even if you cannot try the bike model you want locally, it is worth trying a bike with similar geometry to test out your sizing. I would also buy locally if they carry what I am after, but sometimes you don't have a local dealer for what you are after. For example, I am looking to buy a touring bike, but they are not popular where I am, stores don't carry them. It is probably still worth me checking to see if there are any road bikes with similar geometry to the tourers I am looking at, that I can try, but I am not going to buy a carbon or aluminum frame to take touring.
Matteo Ceriotti I know what you mean, but sometimes your local bike shop doesn't have what you are looking for, have overpriced bikes and online shops have better prices. I want to purchase a Cervelo or Focus, but there is not a dealer where I live. My options are either Specialized, Orbea, Scott or Trek.....and the Trek shop owner likes to overprice his bikes by a lot. I totally respect your opinion though.
@@TebTengri They dont care, I tried to make business with them but they are bent on their pricess. To much excuses, its either they have to cover shipping cost on there bikes, taxes etc...any excuse to get an extra buck. If it was just a couple of hundred of dollars expensive, but these guys are literally selling their bikes from $600 to $1000 more than online prices and that is before taxes.
Nice video for beginner, but i would add some things: 1- correct measurement for top tube is not on exact top tube, but from the top center of head tube parallel to the ground to center of seat tube. This measurement often called ETT (effective top tube). If you measure sloping geometry, you will get larger number for top tube, but it wont be larger. 2- stack and reach measurements are much more accurate, because sometimes you can have two bikes with same ETT and different reach. Why this happen? Because of seat tube angle.
you really ease my feelings... i am also 6 feet tall and i have a 56 cm roadbike. before this I thought that the bicycle does not fit me. but you clear it up. thanks so much
Greetings from Bangladesh! I have just started to watch videos on biking. Though I did cycling a lot in my childhood, I had a long break. This time I am planning to start again and buy a bike. I liked your videos. The way you demonstrated various positions of the body while sitting on the saddle, helped me much. Thanks again. Also, discussions on your videos are helpful. Thanks to others for their comments.
Thank you for the video! It was very helpful for me to decided my 1st cross country to over island of Taiwan for next year 2020! In process of training riding to reach 100 km per day. Overall island’s of crossing is about 9-12 days.
Responding to a couple comments here where people are saying you can get practically any size frame you want and compensate with stem length and seat post adjustments. This is wrong. SickBiker explains it pretty well, but two more things to think about. Having your seat post too far in is bad - the seat post flexes and acts as a shock absorber. If it is too far in, it can't do this. If it is too far out, a carbon fiber post may break. Alloy posts won't break, but if they are very far out, they may not have enough grip to stay in. Stem length is also something that should be kept within a reasonable medium. Some racers use extremely long stems because it lowers the bars even further to get them into even more aerodynamic positions. However, stem length significantly effects they steering performance or your bike. If the stem is too short, your steering will feel twitchy at higher speeds. If the stem is too long, it will feel unresponsive at slower speeds. Reasonable changes to stem and seat post help perfect the fit of your frame for your particular body, but should not be used as ways to force a frame to fit you.
at 2:53 you made the best comment. Connection and sentiments are imortant when u ride your machine. This is my first road bike and i love it, taking pics at each possible point :)
toe overlap doesn't necessarily mean that the frame is too small for you. some of the bike manufacturer has purposely made the geometry like that especially when the fork rake angle is not too steep. what is more important are the reach, top tube length, head tube length, and also saddle height since these measurement will determine your riding position.
Wonderful channel. I have the same bike, size 56 CAAD10, and 181 CMs height. I really enjoy your experiences and they way you explain your logic. Thanks.
Great video, the amount of detail and explanation you provided was very helpful. This was the first video of yours I found. I'll check out all your other video's!
Usually the printed or "Comercial" size of the bike is measured from the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube, not from the seat tube to the head tube. That's why the brands upload a geometry chart on their website, for example a 49 cm (m size) frame with a curved top tube has a efective top tube length or reach of 54 cm.
Oh, it's a bit more complicated. The size used to mean a seat tube length for MTB and a top tube length for roadies. Now it can be very misleading with different brands. Also, the reach measurement is not just an effective top tube length, but the horizontal distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube. Cheers!
Thank you. I switch your video with not much expectations honestly But I was proved Wrong. Many of my doubts was cleared. I come now informed and aware. My apology for being biased. Continue to do this excellent service.
It would have been interesting to take static images of equivalent body positions on the various types and sizes of bikes to compare body angles. This might allow analysis of the most optimal relationship of the head, neck, arms, back and legs in relation to each other for maximal efficiency while riding. The viewer might also do this by using the "Clipping Tool" on the computer and putting images next to each other for comparison and contrast.
One more thing to think about - the reach of the handlebars (forward distance from the tops to the shifters). This is pretty much the same on standard handlebars, but can change for various carbon aero handlebars. I like riding big frames. I recently built a carbon Fuji SL Elite and got the size frame that should work perfectly for me. I forgot to take into account the extra couple cm of reach in the aero carbon handlebars I wanted to use. That small difference made the bike uncomfortable with even a 100mm stem, which is normally the shortest I would want to ride because of the feel of the steering. I wound up keeping the handlebars and swapping to an 80mm stem. The steering is definitely a bit twitchy over 25m an hour, but I've gotten used to it and I love those handlebars too much to go back to standard bars on that frame.
Bike fitting just lets you to choose from a much wider range of bike sizes. We have one body, obviously, so only one size can be right for it. But because of the proper fitting, you can choose from at least 3 (one smaller, one bigger) or even more bike sizes. There is no need to stuck with just one size, adjustable saddle/handlebar height and position is there for a reason.
May you do a video on choosing different bikes for different purposes: city, mountain, cross country and lots down hills. So we green peas has more knowledges on choose the right bike for petite riders, height under 5’2”?
Hi I am 183 cms tall. I have a big torso. So my inner leg length is less. I opted for bike with a 55 cm top tube length and 54cm seat tube length. Due to my long arms with the max reach. i still have a flexed elbow. what type of bike fit do i need to make my bike perfect for me?
your MTB bike position looks less upright compared to most of other videos. are your MTB wheels 26 inches? if yes, why you didn't think of going for 29 inches?
Hi sir could you help me the exact size of road bike and my height is 5'3" or 160cm. As of now in have the twiiter road bike 48cm size but the top tube size is 53cm is too long and it is aggressive very aero could please help me the exact size
Would a 58 cm frame fit you? What would be the problems if the top tube is slightly longer than needed? I thought this could be fixed perfectly by using a shorter stem.
I'm 182 cm tall and 83cm inseam. I got a Merida cyclocross 500 size 52 last year. I think, that otherwise the frame size is ok, but have some toe and front wheel overlap.. I have also mudguards installed. This is the reason I bought Merida. Merida has the mounting points for long mudguards. Now I installing also 700x40 studded tires that I already had from my old bike. And it has got even tighter.. So I was thinking, that maybe I could installed a smaller front wheel. Thanks to disc brakes, it's possible.. It would change headtube angle and bottom bracket ground clearance a bit, but not too much, I think... The reason why I hesitate is that it's expensive.. Maybe it won't work. Maybe it will change the handling so much worse.. And then, there also isn't so many narrower tires available for smaller wheels.. So I think, I still try to learn to ride without hitting the wheel wheel on small bike.. It won't happen on high speed, but it has happened many times on low speed on tight turns, that the front wheel get locked behind toe when start ridding on turn at crossroad.. Then I can't turn it back to straight so easily.. But Dropping the heel lover and turning the handlebar with more strength has worked so far, but now after I have wider winter tires.. I don't know. I haven't tried it on street yet.. Must gather some courage and be very careful.. :P But what I'm sure, is that, I got the frame size right. 54 size bike would have too few stand over clearance for me. Even this 52 size is pretty high I think.
+Hardi Erstu Hi there, I'm 182.5 cm tall with the inseam of just over 85 cm. With your height that would mean having longer upper body, thus creating a need for longer reach of the frame. The toe overlap problem is common in such situation for road bikes. If the stand over clearance is the issue here, I would simply go for more sloping geometry - sometimes it means looking for a frame of another brand.
+cannondany Hi, thank's for your reply. And I'm sorry, I made a mistake there. I'm 172cm tall. Not 182. But I actually have been thinking to try a bit longer stem, to see how would it change the feel on bike. Because when I bought the bike, then most webpages really did recommended a bit longer toptube, or reach for my size. They were noting, that when not sure, which size you need then should check the ape index. With positive ape index, the bigger frame would be better. Well I do have positive ape index, but.. I still bought a smaller frame, since. I'm not ape enough to believe everything what they say. Well, actually I think that with longer hands, I don't need the handlebar to be further in front, Rather it should be lower. But bigger frame would have longer headtube so the handlebar would be too high.. PS. I haven't watched your other videos about bike fitting yet. Sorry if you had already covered all this there. But I will watch them later soon.. ^_^
I have a cheap commuter bike(old MTB) and a pretty expensive Canyon road bike - I absolutely hate the road bike: crammed and bent over. Tested both over 30km(Road Bike was on average exactly 1km/h faster, at 7bpm higher average heart rate): MTB(37mm-622, Continental Contact Speed tire, 78PSI back, 70PSI front) at 150bpm average heart rate and Canyon Road Bike(28mm-622, Continental Grand Prix 5000 tire, 105PSI back, 95PSI front) at 157bpm average heart rate. The MTB is just significantly more comfortable and the torso is more open, resulting in a more natural leg movement(legs getting tired harder and putting the power more efficiently)...
How come when your feet hitting the wheel indicates that your frame is too small? You can be tall but have small feet for vice versa. The frame is just small and there is no space between the crank and the wheel. Shorten the crank length would solve the problem.
Hi. I am 176cm and 85cm inseam.. I am not sure my bike size is correct riding a ridley fenix classic (carbon) 56cm.. when I see my position it looks to upright and I have a lot of neck and shoulder pain..
I have viewed on youtube at least a half dozen videos whose titles lead one to believe that watching he will by shown how to choose the basic dimensions of a bicycle to achieve a proper fit. The one criterion, for males, that almost all recommend is a "standing height" of a few inches to protect one's crotch area in the event of a quick need to straddle the frame. The only other body measurement of interest seems to be the person's height, but that is used as a guide to the frame's overall size, large, medium, or small. I think the reason for no finer matching of the person to the bicycle is that they are not really made in a variety of sizes to fit a variety of people. I don't think more than a coarse fit can be obtained from any of the videos I have seen.
humm, on another video you said that the head tube length was a useless measurement, you said that reach and stack dimensions were more important. I am confused? also 2 people maybe the same height, but have have different sizes of torso, arms and legs. so they may need different sized frames, or could they both feel comfortable on the same bike? i think people should measure themselves as shown on youtube.
Hi mate, I am 1.78m tall and inseam is about 81cm. I have a much shorter torso relative to my height. Hence I have problem with bike that reach is 38.4cm or more. What happen if I get a small that is much smaller? Your video says about 2-4 fingers from the top tube. If I go for a smaller size bike, it might exceed 4 fingers or more. Would there be a problem with the seatpost?
As soon you said you're exactly 6 ft tall and you're physical therapist, I subscribed for a lifetime, fellow! And you lived in UK I guess according to your accent. We do have lot in common my Slavic brother.
Hi, I am in between sizes on the Merida size calculator between small and s/m. I am 171cm with 79cm inseam and my arms are 58-59 but not sure of measurement. Which should I go for?
12:47, i though exactly the same. Someone could be like 160-170cm in height, so fit to the frame, but his 46-47cm hobbit feet would be in collision with the front wheel. I think in case like this, one has to look for a different geometry bike, with greater steering head angle.
Mr Thomas I don't understand this. I've owned seven road bikes, and the toe/tire thing has happened on all of them. Even on the 58cm frame that was a little too big for me. I'm only 5' 9-1/2" and wear size 45 in road bike shoes. Everyone I've ever met who owned a road bike could touch the front wheel with their toes. I always thought it was normal. I'm not sure I agree with that part of the video because everything I've ever seen is to the contrary.
if not using clipless spd shoes then its not a problem, because you can just move your feet to clear the wheel eg in turn, i've never used clipless but i can imagine it would be a problem in turn.
Actually it wouldn't be a problem as normally ppl would stop pedaling during corners. At least this is my case, while I am cornering I would lift my inner foot up
+marco b What's up Marco, are we talking about Merida 500 Cyclo Cross? You should be able to fit both bikes to your body, as both have same REACH and the size 50 cm has only 6 mm smaller STACK, BUT have in mind, that the 52 cm size will have 15 mm longer HEAD TUBE and the 50 cm size has a bit SLACKER head tube angle (bit more stable handling) to minimize the shoe overlap problem. If you don't have a chance to try the bike, I would at least ask the online seller to compare the shoe overlap (the distance between the pedal and a front wheel). Hope it was helpful. Let me know, which one you choose and how do you like riding it. Cheers!
+cannondany Thanks for replying. I just got a Merida 500 cyclocross 2015, same model and colors as yours, size 52. I think you're right about the sizes, it seems I'm in the middle and I'd need a 51 :-) . It seems a quite good bike for the price range....I' m ager to try it !!
Hello ! Really nice and well explained video ! I'm planning on getting a caad 10 next week, size 58. I'm 1m83 and have 90cm inseam, do you thing it's gonna be ok with a 58 frame ?
I don't get it. I've owned 56cm and 58cm road bikes--at one point, I had seven--and my foot could touch the front wheel on all of them. I'm only 5' 9-1/2" (176.5 cm) tall. Everyone I've ever known could do the same on their bikes. How could all of us have had bikes that were too short? I always thought your toe touching the front tire was normal..
Ian Snyder I'm exactly your size and my 51 cm bike feels ok to me... lol I do touch the front tire easily, but then it also depends on the position of your foot on the pedal.
Have you considered that you may have one leg longer than the other? This may cause over extension in the shorter leg which in your case could be the left
dude think about axis that are paralel and horisontal to ground... then u can ged spot on correct meshurements for everyone. Ability to extend seat angle of seat tube from paralel from ground through botom bracket center and top tube are the only important things for selecting bike... and there is no spesific size of bike for any ppl... aproximetly fiting bike is 100% good cuz seat hight is easy to change and stem gives many variations of changeing sizes to. Head tube means nothing...aslonag as it stays somewhat horisontal to seat tube. And top ube must be meshured as a horisontal of the ground from head tube and top tube nentre to seat tube.. whitch in many cases is not there.. for that u must extend immaginary seat tube axis of seat tube or just use seatpost as a tool :D Top tube itself means nothing cuz it goes in many angles.
Hi, I like the merida ride 91 2014 But in the area where I live it does not exist in any of the shops to be able to see and test the right frame size.I have to buy it from the internet...I need your help... I am 185cm 86cm inseam,what is the better frame size for me 56 or 59?(i know my english is very bad :P)
My English isn't any better that yours :) You will be able to fit both bikes to your height. Just remember, that the one in size 58 has 1 cm longer reach and 2,4 cm higher stack.
I liked your video at the beginning, , but your suggestion to try a bike at a local bike shop, and then buy online, is something I would strongly discourage. If you try a bike locally, you should buy locally.
How did you solve your Toe Overlap in the end?? I'm currently having that problem as a beginner and was wondering how to solve.. Shorter Crank length? repositioning of cleats?
Surely, getting the right bike size is entirely predicated on the dimensions of your own body size? The objective is to be able to buy the right size bike for your body frame size, so that you gain the closest optimum fit for comfortable, enjoyable cycling. The first dimensions one must know with accuracy is one's own body dimensions, and height is just one dimension to take into consideration, but in respect to acquiring the right size bike frame, height is not important. You would never buy a bike based solely on your height, because your height is made up from four different lengths, and only two of those four lengths play a part in gaining the right size bike frame, which are inside leg measurement and ape index. At full adulthood, your body dimensions do not change, especially the ape index and inside leg measurement, your height does very slightly change from morning to night. I am 5' 11" (71") exactly, with an inside leg measurement of 30", and an ape index of 70" (giving a negative ape index of -1"). When you look at the homogenised chart measurements of bike stores online, the actual frame size I would need for the best optimum fit is not available unless I pay for a customised frame. Bike manufacturers don't want to make in-between sizes of frames, it's just not economical for them, so frame sizes on their charts are what you could call 'in-the-ball-park' sizes for your body dimensions, give or take a centimetre. So, what bike manufacturers want us to do is to buy one of their assembly line sized frames and match it as close to our body dimensions as possible, and sometimes, they will be bang on, but not for everyone. After that, once you have the bike at home, you then set about tweaking aspects of the bike that you can alter to optimise the bike to all your body dimensions, which is where the 'bike fit' comes into play. The first dimension to get right is your inside leg measurement to the right size frame. You then want a top tube length that optimally accommodates the length of your reach. Clearly, once these two dimensions have been sorted, the next important aspects of the bike frame are the angles of the head tube and the stem, and the position of the seat, for these are what you can tweak for your reach. Always bear in mind that your centre of gravity needs to be directly over your seat tube, as this is where gravity has the greatest pull on your body and is the contact point between yourself and the bike where the greater load occurs. I would suggest that the widest part of the seat should be immediately behind the seat tube, and then tilted perhaps in conjunction with the angles of the head tube and stem. Between you and the bike itself, you are always the heavier item. What I am saying here is that your load mass, pushing down on the bike at various contact points, via buttocks, hands and soles of the feet, should be distributed in such a way that the load at each point of contact is not overwhelming. You want less load along your arms, wrists, and hands, than you do at your hips and buttocks on the seat. Ensuring this should provide for good consistent cadence, without unnecessary strain build up at the contact points, but especially at the shoulders and hips. Of course, all this depends upon the type of cycling one intends to do.
video a little long. I'm interested in fitting for a mountain bike. Would be nice if you placed in the description the times of the video for each type of bike so I can skip to that point
If I keep my saddle at 109% of my 83cm inseam, it should be at about 90,5cm from crank bottom stroke. But I've been having it at about 93cm, a WHOLE INCH higher. If I lower it, my back starts hurting. Could this be a case of getting used to too high saddle and I just need to relearn how to pedal on a low saddle? I've always had back pain on a higher saddle too after like 30 minutes of riding but it's almost immediate when lowering the saddle to the 109% height. I just really want to enjoy cycling without pain!
In nearly sixty years of serious cycling, I've never heard of frame size being measured (at 4'-45") along the top tube. It's measured from the top of the seat tube down to the centre of the bottom bracket.
Ian Mackey Hi Ian. It always used to be as you say. Since the advent of "compact" frames the seat tube is much shorter, so it's length doesn't mean the same thing. Many bike makers now use "effective top tube" as their measurement. ETT is the length the top tube would be if it was horizontal. Others just measure the sloping top tube. Everything that was simple is complicated now 🤔
Hi. U gotta new subs from malaysia 😊😊😊 just ask'in. My height : 160cm Weight : 80kg Whats the best bike size that suits me ? Currently using 49cm. Is it too big ? If you reply, thanks a lot sir
I like your videos in general and also this one.
I don't agree however in your suggestion to go and try bike sizes at the local shop for then buying online. The local shop can afford to let you try bikes because people buy their bikes. Trying bikes is a service they offer for free, but I feel it should be rewarded buying a bike, if a good one is found. Leaving the shop for buying online to save some dollars/pounds/euros is lame.
lol you must be rich because i haft to gather 5 months in my country to buy a good bike so i can do all my transportation
I think he meant that even if you cannot try the bike model you want locally, it is worth trying a bike with similar geometry to test out your sizing. I would also buy locally if they carry what I am after, but sometimes you don't have a local dealer for what you are after. For example, I am looking to buy a touring bike, but they are not popular where I am, stores don't carry them. It is probably still worth me checking to see if there are any road bikes with similar geometry to the tourers I am looking at, that I can try, but I am not going to buy a carbon or aluminum frame to take touring.
Matteo Ceriotti I know what you mean, but sometimes your local bike shop doesn't have what you are looking for, have overpriced bikes and online shops have better prices. I want to purchase a Cervelo or Focus, but there is not a dealer where I live. My options are either Specialized, Orbea, Scott or Trek.....and the Trek shop owner likes to overprice his bikes by a lot. I totally respect your opinion though.
@@cesarmelendez31306 straight up tell the shop guy: I'd like to do business locally but this is the price I'm getting online. How close can you get?
@@TebTengri They dont care, I tried to make business with them but they are bent on their pricess. To much excuses, its either they have to cover shipping cost on there bikes, taxes etc...any excuse to get an extra buck. If it was just a couple of hundred of dollars expensive, but these guys are literally selling their bikes from $600 to $1000 more than online prices and that is before taxes.
The way you explain things, it really takes me more into cycling like a pro and away from injuries. Thanks mate. Keep making great videos.
Nice video for beginner, but i would add some things:
1- correct measurement for top tube is not on exact top tube, but from the top center of head tube parallel to the ground to center of seat tube. This measurement often called ETT (effective top tube). If you measure sloping geometry, you will get larger number for top tube, but it wont be larger.
2- stack and reach measurements are much more accurate, because sometimes you can have two bikes with same ETT and different reach. Why this happen? Because of seat tube angle.
He addressed that in the video already
you really ease my feelings... i am also 6 feet tall and i have a 56 cm roadbike. before this I thought that the bicycle does not fit me. but you clear it up. thanks so much
Greetings from Bangladesh! I have just started to watch videos on biking. Though I did cycling a lot in my childhood, I had a long break. This time I am planning to start again and buy a bike. I liked your videos. The way you demonstrated various positions of the body while sitting on the saddle, helped me much. Thanks again. Also, discussions on your videos are helpful. Thanks to others for their comments.
Thank you for the video!
It was very helpful for me to decided my 1st cross country to over island of Taiwan for next year 2020! In process of training riding to reach 100 km per day. Overall island’s of crossing is about 9-12 days.
Responding to a couple comments here where people are saying you can get practically any size frame you want and compensate with stem length and seat post adjustments. This is wrong. SickBiker explains it pretty well, but two more things to think about. Having your seat post too far in is bad - the seat post flexes and acts as a shock absorber. If it is too far in, it can't do this. If it is too far out, a carbon fiber post may break. Alloy posts won't break, but if they are very far out, they may not have enough grip to stay in. Stem length is also something that should be kept within a reasonable medium. Some racers use extremely long stems because it lowers the bars even further to get them into even more aerodynamic positions. However, stem length significantly effects they steering performance or your bike. If the stem is too short, your steering will feel twitchy at higher speeds. If the stem is too long, it will feel unresponsive at slower speeds. Reasonable changes to stem and seat post help perfect the fit of your frame for your particular body, but should not be used as ways to force a frame to fit you.
I just bought 2016 CAAD 10 and I’m 5”11. I have same stand over as you on yours. I’m going to get bike fit to help. Thank you
at 2:53 you made the best comment. Connection and sentiments are imortant when u ride your machine. This is my first road bike and i love it, taking pics at each possible point :)
toe overlap doesn't necessarily mean that the frame is too small for you. some of the bike manufacturer has purposely made the geometry like that especially when the fork rake angle is not too steep. what is more important are the reach, top tube length, head tube length, and also saddle height since these measurement will determine your riding position.
btw, a very informative video. like it.
It would be almost the same for every rider, unless they have much shorter toes. Having said that, I would never get a bike like that.
Hey! Just want to mention that using stack and reach to measure frames is a better method. Great videos!
+Lerrj Lee You're absolutely right! I'm gonna make another video about it. Thanks!
Wonderful channel. I have the same bike, size 56 CAAD10, and 181 CMs height. I really enjoy your experiences and they way you explain your logic. Thanks.
+Rahul S Thank you so much. I have really a hard time talking English in front of the camera, but the more I record, the better it goes. Cheers!
Enjoy your videos. I too am a physio with a interest in cycling. It's a great pass time, and very complementary to the profession.
Great video, the amount of detail and explanation you provided was very helpful. This was the first video of yours I found. I'll check out all your other video's!
Keep on the good job
You are a fantastic talent
You are a great teacher than any other channel
Usually the printed or "Comercial" size of the bike is measured from the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube, not from the seat tube to the head tube. That's why the brands upload a geometry chart on their website, for example a 49 cm (m size) frame with a curved top tube has a efective top tube length or reach of 54 cm.
Oh, it's a bit more complicated. The size used to mean a seat tube length for MTB and a top tube length for roadies. Now it can be very misleading with different brands. Also, the reach measurement is not just an effective top tube length, but the horizontal distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube. Cheers!
Thank you. I switch your video with not much expectations honestly But I was proved Wrong. Many of my doubts was cleared. I come now informed and aware. My apology for being biased. Continue to do this excellent service.
+Supong Longchar Thanks a lot man!
It would have been interesting to take static images of equivalent body positions on the various types and sizes of bikes to compare body angles. This might allow analysis of the most optimal relationship of the head, neck, arms, back and legs in relation to each other for maximal efficiency while riding. The viewer might also do this by using the "Clipping Tool" on the computer and putting images next to each other for comparison and contrast.
One more thing to think about - the reach of the handlebars (forward distance from the tops to the shifters). This is pretty much the same on standard handlebars, but can change for various carbon aero handlebars. I like riding big frames. I recently built a carbon Fuji SL Elite and got the size frame that should work perfectly for me. I forgot to take into account the extra couple cm of reach in the aero carbon handlebars I wanted to use. That small difference made the bike uncomfortable with even a 100mm stem, which is normally the shortest I would want to ride because of the feel of the steering. I wound up keeping the handlebars and swapping to an 80mm stem. The steering is definitely a bit twitchy over 25m an hour, but I've gotten used to it and I love those handlebars too much to go back to standard bars on that frame.
Bike fitting just lets you to choose from a much wider range of bike sizes. We have one body, obviously, so only one size can be right for it. But because of the proper fitting, you can choose from at least 3 (one smaller, one bigger) or even more bike sizes. There is no need to stuck with just one size, adjustable saddle/handlebar height and position is there for a reason.
May you do a video on choosing different bikes for different purposes: city, mountain, cross country and lots down hills. So we green peas has more knowledges on choose the right bike for petite riders, height under 5’2”?
I have watched a lot of your videos lately and you always do a great job. Thank you.
+Brian Moore I am so happy to hear that, since I have some big plans for this channel.
Hi I am 183 cms tall. I have a big torso. So my inner leg length is less. I opted for bike with a 55 cm top tube length and 54cm seat tube length. Due to my long arms with the max reach. i still have a flexed elbow. what type of bike fit do i need to make my bike perfect for me?
same
your MTB bike position looks less upright compared to most of other videos. are your MTB wheels 26 inches? if yes, why you didn't think of going for 29 inches?
Hi sir could you help me the exact size of road bike and my height is 5'3" or 160cm.
As of now in have the twiiter road bike 48cm size but the top tube size is 53cm is too long and it is aggressive very aero could please help me the exact size
Would a 58 cm frame fit you? What would be the problems if the top tube is slightly longer than needed? I thought this could be fixed perfectly by using a shorter stem.
I'm 182 cm tall and 83cm inseam. I got a Merida cyclocross 500 size 52 last year. I think, that otherwise the frame size is ok, but have some toe and front wheel overlap.. I have also mudguards installed. This is the reason I bought Merida. Merida has the mounting points for long mudguards. Now I installing also 700x40 studded tires that I already had from my old bike. And it has got even tighter..
So I was thinking, that maybe I could installed a smaller front wheel. Thanks to disc brakes, it's possible.. It would change headtube angle and bottom bracket ground clearance a bit, but not too much, I think...
The reason why I hesitate is that it's expensive.. Maybe it won't work. Maybe it will change the handling so much worse.. And then, there also isn't so many narrower tires available for smaller wheels..
So I think, I still try to learn to ride without hitting the wheel wheel on small bike.. It won't happen on high speed, but it has happened many times on low speed on tight turns, that the front wheel get locked behind toe when start ridding on turn at crossroad.. Then I can't turn it back to straight so easily.. But Dropping the heel lover and turning the handlebar with more strength has worked so far, but now after I have wider winter tires.. I don't know. I haven't tried it on street yet.. Must gather some courage and be very careful.. :P
But what I'm sure, is that, I got the frame size right. 54 size bike would have too few stand over clearance for me. Even this 52 size is pretty high I think.
+Hardi Erstu Hi there, I'm 182.5 cm tall with the inseam of just over 85 cm. With your height that would mean having longer upper body, thus creating a need for longer reach of the frame. The toe overlap problem is common in such situation for road bikes. If the stand over clearance is the issue here, I would simply go for more sloping geometry - sometimes it means looking for a frame of another brand.
+cannondany Hi, thank's for your reply. And I'm sorry, I made a mistake there. I'm 172cm tall. Not 182. But I actually have been thinking to try a bit longer stem, to see how would it change the feel on bike. Because when I bought the bike, then most webpages really did recommended a bit longer toptube, or reach for my size. They were noting, that when not sure, which size you need then should check the ape index. With positive ape index, the bigger frame would be better. Well I do have positive ape index, but.. I still bought a smaller frame, since. I'm not ape enough to believe everything what they say.
Well, actually I think that with longer hands, I don't need the handlebar to be further in front, Rather it should be lower. But bigger frame would have longer headtube so the handlebar would be too high..
PS. I haven't watched your other videos about bike fitting yet. Sorry if you had already covered all this there. But I will watch them later soon.. ^_^
I have a cheap commuter bike(old MTB) and a pretty expensive Canyon road bike - I absolutely hate the road bike: crammed and bent over.
Tested both over 30km(Road Bike was on average exactly 1km/h faster, at 7bpm higher average heart rate): MTB(37mm-622, Continental Contact Speed tire, 78PSI back, 70PSI front) at 150bpm average heart rate and Canyon Road Bike(28mm-622, Continental Grand Prix 5000 tire, 105PSI back, 95PSI front) at 157bpm average heart rate.
The MTB is just significantly more comfortable and the torso is more open, resulting in a more natural leg movement(legs getting tired harder and putting the power more efficiently)...
Thanks for the wonderful video, now I can buy first road bike for me :)
Hello, I am 171cm tall, which size frame would be best for me (cm)? What are the disadvantages of getting a bigger than I should size frame? Thank you
For a road bike choose 49-51 size
Maxim Y way too small for 171 though it depends on the brand
im just starting out to upgrade from a 80s bike im 5ft 6 tall inseam might be 30 inch im thinking maybe 56
How come when your feet hitting the wheel indicates that your frame is too small?
You can be tall but have small feet for vice versa.
The frame is just small and there is no space between the crank and the wheel.
Shorten the crank length would solve the problem.
I learned a lot from this and your other videos. Thumbs up.
+dante santos Thanks Dante! Stay tuned :)
Hi. I am 176cm and 85cm inseam.. I am not sure my bike size is correct
riding a ridley fenix classic (carbon) 56cm..
when I see my position it looks to upright and I have a lot of neck and shoulder pain..
I have viewed on youtube at least a half dozen videos whose titles lead one to believe that watching he will by shown how to choose the basic dimensions of a bicycle to achieve a proper fit. The one criterion, for males, that almost all recommend is a "standing height" of a few inches to protect one's crotch area in the event of a quick need to straddle the frame. The only other body measurement of interest seems to be the person's height, but that is used as a guide to the frame's overall size, large, medium, or small. I think the reason for no finer matching of the person to the bicycle is that they are not really made in a variety of sizes to fit a variety of people. I don't think more than a coarse fit can be obtained from any of the videos I have seen.
how about a stand over that has an exact height just touching your tenders. i own a cx crux with a size 49cm is this too big for me? thanks!
humm, on another video you said that the head tube length was a useless measurement, you said that reach and stack dimensions were more important. I am confused? also 2 people maybe the same height, but have have different sizes of torso, arms and legs. so they may need different sized frames, or could they both feel comfortable on the same bike? i think people should measure themselves as shown on youtube.
Hi mate, I am 1.78m tall and inseam is about 81cm. I have a much shorter torso relative to my height. Hence I have problem with bike that reach is 38.4cm or more. What happen if I get a small that is much smaller? Your video says about 2-4 fingers from the top tube. If I go for a smaller size bike, it might exceed 4 fingers or more. Would there be a problem with the seatpost?
Hi replacing stolen bike, thinking of the Giant fastroad SL3. I'm 5' 7 with 31 inside leg. What size would you recommend?
Interesting. What's your inseam by the way?
sir i'm 5'7" what size frame fits me? pls reply sir thank you...
As soon you said you're exactly 6 ft tall and you're physical therapist, I subscribed for a lifetime, fellow! And you lived in UK I guess according to your accent. We do have lot in common my Slavic brother.
Cool man :) I haven't lived in UK though... Just Poland and Iceland.
Keep doing good work, bro! Greetings from Croatia.
Chon Adams Suck up!
Hi planning to buy merida cyclocross 300 torn between 56cm and 59 cm i stand 185cm with inseam of 86cm. thanks
Hi, I am in between sizes on the Merida size calculator between small and s/m. I am 171cm with 79cm inseam and my arms are 58-59 but not sure of measurement. Which should I go for?
Merida*
good day what if only 1 finger on the toptube? is it ok?? thank you
Whats your stem length on the 56cm one?
This is a very good vidéo, tanks for Sharing All these vidéos
Thanks!
The foot touching the front wheel has nothing to do with size. Even a midgets foot would touch the front wheel if his feet were the same size.
I didn't fully understand your comment, as you didn't say what size (frame or shoe), but the truth is anyway, that BOTH matter here.
12:47, i though exactly the same. Someone could be like 160-170cm in height, so fit to the frame, but his 46-47cm hobbit feet would be in collision with the front wheel. I think in case like this, one has to look for a different geometry bike, with greater steering head angle.
Mr Thomas I don't understand this. I've owned seven road bikes, and the toe/tire thing has happened on all of them. Even on the 58cm frame that was a little too big for me. I'm only 5' 9-1/2" and wear size 45 in road bike shoes. Everyone I've ever met who owned a road bike could touch the front wheel with their toes. I always thought it was normal. I'm not sure I agree with that part of the video because everything I've ever seen is to the contrary.
if not using clipless spd shoes then its not a problem, because you can just move your feet to clear the wheel eg in turn, i've never used clipless but i can imagine it would be a problem in turn.
Actually it wouldn't be a problem as normally ppl would stop pedaling during corners.
At least this is my case, while I am cornering I would lift my inner foot up
hi , my measures are high=172 inseam=80 cm, trunk=66, arm=61 I'd like to buy a Merida 500what size would you suggest : 50 or 52 ?thanks !!
+marco b What's up Marco, are we talking about Merida 500 Cyclo Cross? You should be able to fit both bikes to your body, as both have same REACH and the size 50 cm has only 6 mm smaller STACK, BUT have in mind, that the 52 cm size will have 15 mm longer HEAD TUBE and the 50 cm size has a bit SLACKER head tube angle (bit more stable handling) to minimize the shoe overlap problem. If you don't have a chance to try the bike, I would at least ask the online seller to compare the shoe overlap (the distance between the pedal and a front wheel). Hope it was helpful. Let me know, which one you choose and how do you like riding it. Cheers!
+cannondany Thanks for replying. I just got a Merida 500 cyclocross 2015, same model and colors as yours, size 52. I think you're right about the sizes, it seems I'm in the middle and I'd need a 51 :-) . It seems a quite good bike for the price range....I' m ager to try it !!
Hello !
Really nice and well explained video !
I'm planning on getting a caad 10 next week, size 58.
I'm 1m83 and have 90cm inseam, do you thing it's gonna be ok with a 58 frame ?
+Amaury Mltn Yes, I think it will fit you. Cheers!
Thank you for your quick answer :)
@@cannondany if my height 179..what is the ideal bike size for me?
I don't get it. I've owned 56cm and 58cm road bikes--at one point, I had seven--and my foot could touch the front wheel on all of them. I'm only 5' 9-1/2" (176.5 cm) tall. Everyone I've ever known could do the same on their bikes. How could all of us have had bikes that were too short? I always thought your toe touching the front tire was normal..
Ian Snyder I'm exactly your size and my 51 cm bike feels ok to me... lol I do touch the front tire easily, but then it also depends on the position of your foot on the pedal.
Ian Snyder maybe you and your friends have Bigfoot feets
Well explained 👍 subscribed
hi
i am 5.7 my seat height is 91 cm .alway have left knee pain?
Redaan Adams try a different seat. stopped my problem. less cushion is more support
Have you considered that you may have one leg longer than the other? This may cause over extension in the shorter leg which in your case could be the left
What size Do you have?
What size bike do you ride? I’m 5’8” my bike is a Scott Addict RC size 52cm and my seat hight after a bike fit is 71CM. You seat may be set to high.
dude think about axis that are paralel and horisontal to ground... then u can ged spot on correct meshurements for everyone. Ability to extend seat angle of seat tube from paralel from ground through botom bracket center and top tube are the only important things for selecting bike... and there is no spesific size of bike for any ppl... aproximetly fiting bike is 100% good cuz seat hight is easy to change and stem gives many variations of changeing sizes to. Head tube means nothing...aslonag as it stays somewhat horisontal to seat tube. And top ube must be meshured as a horisontal of the ground from head tube and top tube nentre to seat tube.. whitch in many cases is not there.. for that u must extend immaginary seat tube axis of seat tube or just use seatpost as a tool :D Top tube itself means nothing cuz it goes in many angles.
Hi,
I like the merida ride 91 2014 But in the area where I live it does not exist in any of the shops to be able to see and test the right frame size.I have to buy it from the internet...I need your help... I am 185cm 86cm inseam,what is the better frame size for me 56 or 59?(i know my english is very bad :P)
My English isn't any better that yours :) You will be able to fit both bikes to your height. Just remember, that the one in size 58 has 1 cm longer reach and 2,4 cm higher stack.
Your videos are very informative! Thanks!
I liked your video at the beginning, , but your suggestion to try a bike at a local bike shop, and then buy online, is something I would strongly discourage. If you try a bike locally, you should buy locally.
Hi just found your channel thanks for the videos very helpful
I have a toe overlap on uphill, what should i do?
How did you solve your Toe Overlap in the end??
I'm currently having that problem as a beginner and was wondering how to solve.. Shorter Crank length? repositioning of cleats?
What is your height with a 56cm frame?
What's the black and green bar tape on your CX bike?
+Brad Jensen It was a Merida bar tape. Nice one :)
Too small on the mtb. I was tortured for years on a mtb that was too small; it affected my circulation.
Also it feels like you're going to crash at any moment
I’m 5’10 maybe slightly taller is a 56 okay for me?
No, I'm 6 feet tall and ride 56 cm frames.
54cm if your 5’10
starts at 4:15
Great vid, thanks for posting.
Thanks, this video helps a lot.
Surely, getting the right bike size is entirely predicated on the dimensions of your own body size? The objective is to be able to buy the right size bike for your body frame size, so that you gain the closest optimum fit for comfortable, enjoyable cycling.
The first dimensions one must know with accuracy is one's own body dimensions, and height is just one dimension to take into consideration, but in respect to acquiring the right size bike frame, height is not important. You would never buy a bike based solely on your height, because your height is made up from four different lengths, and only two of those four lengths play a part in gaining the right size bike frame, which are inside leg measurement and ape index. At full adulthood, your body dimensions do not change, especially the ape index and inside leg measurement, your height does very slightly change from morning to night.
I am 5' 11" (71") exactly, with an inside leg measurement of 30", and an ape index of 70" (giving a negative ape index of -1"). When you look at the homogenised chart measurements of bike stores online, the actual frame size I would need for the best optimum fit is not available unless I pay for a customised frame. Bike manufacturers don't want to make in-between sizes of frames, it's just not economical for them, so frame sizes on their charts are what you could call 'in-the-ball-park' sizes for your body dimensions, give or take a centimetre. So, what bike manufacturers want us to do is to buy one of their assembly line sized frames and match it as close to our body dimensions as possible, and sometimes, they will be bang on, but not for everyone. After that, once you have the bike at home, you then set about tweaking aspects of the bike that you can alter to optimise the bike to all your body dimensions, which is where the 'bike fit' comes into play.
The first dimension to get right is your inside leg measurement to the right size frame. You then want a top tube length that optimally accommodates the length of your reach. Clearly, once these two dimensions have been sorted, the next important aspects of the bike frame are the angles of the head tube and the stem, and the position of the seat, for these are what you can tweak for your reach.
Always bear in mind that your centre of gravity needs to be directly over your seat tube, as this is where gravity has the greatest pull on your body and is the contact point between yourself and the bike where the greater load occurs. I would suggest that the widest part of the seat should be immediately behind the seat tube, and then tilted perhaps in conjunction with the angles of the head tube and stem.
Between you and the bike itself, you are always the heavier item. What I am saying here is that your load mass, pushing down on the bike at various contact points, via buttocks, hands and soles of the feet, should be distributed in such a way that the load at each point of contact is not overwhelming. You want less load along your arms, wrists, and hands, than you do at your hips and buttocks on the seat. Ensuring this should provide for good consistent cadence, without unnecessary strain build up at the contact points, but especially at the shoulders and hips. Of course, all this depends upon the type of cycling one intends to do.
video a little long. I'm interested in fitting for a mountain bike. Would be nice if you placed in the description the times of the video for each type of bike so I can skip to that point
awesome video buddy
Barnsånger
Which Shoe size do you have ?
+Carsten Dieckmann These Northway are 45 and I'm anywhere in between 43-45 usually.
Toe touch makes no difference to the size of frame,my giant tcr which is perfect for me,I touch the tires
very helpful..thank you.
Great video!
The finger measuring is mess up. It throw me off. I couldn’t stop laughing...
0:27 true...
where do you live?
Hi, I live in Poland and Iceland.
If I keep my saddle at 109% of my 83cm inseam, it should be at about 90,5cm from crank bottom stroke. But I've been having it at about 93cm, a WHOLE INCH higher. If I lower it, my back starts hurting. Could this be a case of getting used to too high saddle and I just need to relearn how to pedal on a low saddle? I've always had back pain on a higher saddle too after like 30 minutes of riding but it's almost immediate when lowering the saddle to the 109% height. I just really want to enjoy cycling without pain!
17:31 nice bike
In nearly sixty years of serious cycling, I've never heard of frame size being measured (at 4'-45") along the top tube. It's measured from the top of the seat tube down to the centre of the bottom bracket.
Very very useful
Bro.. i'm 6.2 feet... Suggest me a Hybrid cycle
Xl size is your bigboy
XL or XXL.
Frame size is the length of the seat tube (top of tube to center of the bottom bracket) not the top tube
Ian Mackey Hi Ian. It always used to be as you say. Since the advent of "compact" frames the seat tube is much shorter, so it's length doesn't mean the same thing. Many bike makers now use "effective top tube" as their measurement. ETT is the length the top tube would be if it was horizontal. Others just measure the sloping top tube. Everything that was simple is complicated now 🤔
Hi. U gotta new subs from malaysia 😊😊😊 just ask'in.
My height : 160cm
Weight : 80kg
Whats the best bike size that suits me ? Currently using 49cm. Is it too big ?
If you reply, thanks a lot sir
Awesome......
+Md Alamin Thank you, such comments make me want to do more :)
Nice...
Dude, cool vid. but i just gotta say, that all white mountain bike has the absolute worst looking frame ive ever seen.
is he czech?
nice package