How To Choose The Right Size Mountain Bike | Frame Geometry Explained
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2021
- Mountain bike frames come in all different shapes & sizes, but choosing the right size for you is crucial in ensuring a fun, safe and comfortable riding experience for years to come! Doddy runs you through some key geometry measurements to help you know how to find the right frame size so you get the perfect bike fit!
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There are thousands of videos out there explaining what measurement does what, but what people are actually asking is, what measurement they actually need. Like great, correct reach is awesome, but what is the correct reach? What do I need to measure to figure out what the correct reach is for me? All this video says on that topic is "go to a bike shop". Not helpful at all.
Exactly!
@@kevgoo1274 i think its 2.55 x your height in cm
@@samuilpetkov9172 2.45-2.55
I agree. This video was terrible.
Hi. maybe u could help me here a bit. I am in the process of selecting a bike and i was going to go for the 2021 cube Two15. I only found the bike in M size, with 27.5 wheels. I also found - for a good price, a mondraker crafty r+ from 2017, size L with 27.5 wheels. I would lean more towards the cube because im not a fan of cycling up (i tend to just take the bus up top and ride down). Would the M cube be too small for me? (i'm 185 when upright). Should i go for the L one?
I need to give a shout out to lee McCormack from lee likes bikes on this topic. He came up with a way to measure your "personal" reach, he calls is a RAD number. I've tested it on myself, and about a dozen people with resounding success. The theory behind it is solid. Every person has a max personal reach to where they can use their primary muscles groups for strength. once you pass this limit you 'll be left using your smaller muscle groups, which are significantly weaker. this works back to you mentioning equilateral triangle. your max strength and agility is within the max limits of the triangle
it very simple to do. I highly recommend trying it. It might feel odd at first but give it a bit and overall control and balance will improve significantly, especially on rough terrain and jumps . there is a UA-cam video that explains the steps, and so far he has been right. Reach is pretty much all that matters with modern bikes and I have to agree with him, most people are riding modern bikes that are to Large for them. you really are better off sizing down if your in between sizes.
RAD is not reach, it is hypotenuse of "reach-stack-RAD" triangle. And reach and stack in this triangle aren't reach and stack of the frame. They are measured from BB to grips.
@@amdmg7 agreed, which is why I called it "personal Reach" and then mentioned RAD. Most people don't know the term RAD so I tried corelating it to something people are more familiar with as well as tried to point them to youtube videos to see how its measured.
RAD is okay for general trail riding but when you are doing a lot of aggressive riding, the longer bikes allow you to feel like you aren’t going to be thrown over the bars. I’m nearly as tall as Doddy and the Reach numbers the RAD has me set up on would have me at a 460-470 reach. Every time I ride bikes with those reach numbers I feel like I’m going to go over the bars. I find 480-490 reach is about perfect for me
@@Hihopeyouhaveawonderfulday then your comfortable with a rad + sizing then.. RAD minus - RAD - RAD +. your height by CM multiply it by 2.4 on rad minus (BMX) 2.5 (enduro bikes) and 2.55 to 2.6 (downhill bikes) im 5'7 and i use to ride a bike with 450 reach and holly mollyy its was a workout. bought a small size bike with a 435 reach and its party time for me.. when i watched EWS i looked at Richie Rudes yeti SB150 and its a MED size (460mm reach with a 50mm stem and a 35mm raise and 785mm width and he is 5'11. that woke me up regarding reach or the RAD
I did this as well, I was in between sizes and it helped me get the correct one. I am very happy with the results.
Gotta say, the thumbnail on the video is on point. Very engaging, but not clickbaity. This is what I like to see!
I unknowingly bought a small used bike and it wore me out very quickly on a moderate trail. Now that I have the correct sized new trail bike the same trails are incredibly easy for me. Frame size matters lol
Doddy, could you dig a bit deeper into this topic and maybe do a video with a bikefitter? I have the feeling that the „modern“ geometry thing is overshooting at the moment and every brand wants to have the longest and slackest bike. If you have long legs this can be a pain because bikes are either too long or the seat tube is too short.
Also the growing reach number on already long bikes are pain in the b*tt to smaller rider
@@johnamiellorzano677 Agreed, and also longer reach seems always to include a taller seat tube too, so if you do need the long reach, you also have a tall frame - although some brands are getting wise to this. The Canyon Spectral 29 geo seems to be the best thought out at the moment.
Just gone from a large trek remedy to an xl Nukeproof giga, and it is so so much better for me, way more room, and when climbing my knees and quads aren’t killing me, and the front end is properly weighted.
Epic video and great timing, I was literally just thinking about this😂
Great video Doddy!! Learnt some stuff today!! Love these videos!!
Love the Y bike. Back in the day we used bar ends to make up for the short cockpit
Doddy, you are brilliant 👍🏻👍🏻
Did a fun check, got the geometry of my large Scott ransom and checked it with a range of other brands and found that i would be either a large or medium depending on manufacturer.
Great episode Doddy!!
Clear explanations. Great video!
A size bigger will help spread the wheels and just run smaller stem. Use to do this racing BMX. I fit a pro but ran XL and XXL frames with short stems. Gave me more room in front to move around. This was back then. Now I actually fit XL BMX frame. In-between in most cases @5'-7"
Thanks for the knowledge boost.
great video Doddy
Thanks! The reach explanation helped me very much. That would explain why my height falls into a Medium frame, but I have long arms and my reach would fall into the large category.
im 6"1 with a 28" inseem and everyone told me to get a 20" frame, i had to have the seat slammed just to ride it and i found it very uncomfortable, now i ride an 18" 29er and im so much happier with it as it gives me room to actually adjust the seat
After choosing 27.5" 17 inch medium frames the last 3 times, I took a chance and did large 18.5 inches (5 foot 8 or 173 cm tall). Only two rides on it so far, but I'm already REALLY liking the larger frame. Wow. So much more room to move around on the seat. And unlike the smaller frames, I don't feel the need to constantly actuate the dropper post on smaller elevation changes. Just keep it at the same seat level, move a bit on the seat and keep pedaling. So nice to just cruise like that instead of trying to get the right seat height on a smaller frame. Don't really notice much of a handling difference, maybe a tad slower turn-in but the benefits of a larger frame really seem to outweigh any loss of handling sharpness.
As Doddy says, the seat tube size isn't a good way to size bikes. The seat tube size is not what has helped you there, it is the longer reach (giving the room to move around), because you can easily just setup the dropper higher in the frame, effectively giving you a larger seat tube size. 18.5 actually sounds too large for your height, but that's perhaps not too much of an issue if you're not jumping or riding steeps, or you have a larger than average inseam. I ride a 18.5 and am 5'11" with a 32" inseam, and I still find that a little too large. You could have got a bike with the same seat tube height (17) and a longer reach to give you more room.
I'm 165 cm tall and bought a small orbea 29er full suss 420 reach and also purchased a medium nuke proof scout 27.5 also 420 reach love them both it's surprising how different they both feel
That's because hardtails feel longer than full sus as only the front sus compresses when sagged. Ideally would have a hardtail ~20mm less reach than your full sus
The mullet name comes from 'business up front, party out back', although they do look rowdy for sure
Great video
11:59 I remember when mullets were a thing with 26 at the front and 24 at the rear - like 15 years ago.
Yeah, it seems nobody remembers it nowadays. specialized Stumpjumpers I think they were. For Enduro riding I guess
Good vid Sir
Would love to see a video on parts you can change to make your bike feel it’s smaller/larger when you’re riding.
I would say a longer or shorter stem
wider or narrower bars with more or less rice
adjusting stack
moving the saddle back and forth
longer or shorter cranks
narrower or wider grips
I need to test out a large frame when I have enough to upgrade from my medium 2017 Whyte T-130s
Thanks, Doddy, I have been thinking about this recently I am currently riding an SC nomadv4 and wanting to try out an SC megatower to do everything bike vs building the new v5 Nomad for the park, shuttle days, and 5010 for everyday riding. My height is 165cm and I am in between the S and M which I think makes my Nomadv4 very hard to climb as it's too short I have tried to lengthen the stem watching from your previous GMBNtech videos and made the ridding characteristics of the nomadv4 changed. From the previous 29ers I have owned that you have pointed out that the rear wheel eats up your back side which made me switched from the 29er to the 27.5 especially ridding techy stuff like what we have here in New Zealand. Thank you for this video Bingaman. what your thoughts? megatower that does all bike or nomadv5 and 5010? await for your reply
Doddy, if you were to ride a hard tail what would you choose? This video has been great but iam a tall person 6’7” and trying to understand how the reach and effective reach plays with my centre standing point. Also on a hard tail when you loaded the bike up (sag) and this then alters the reach and effective top tube lengths? Would be great to see how this effects choosing a hardtail
Many thanks mark.
Thanks to your video I've finally been able to grasp how all the technical jargon comes to some sense in guiding one to a better bike fit. Bravo!
Question his what measurements do you need to find out what reach you need. The RAD measurement doesn't work for everyone. I bought a bike based off my RAD and it ended up too small and I wish I had gone for the size up instead.
Know your ape index (arm span compared to height). If you have shorter arms, avoid upsizing based on height.
Great point, I am 6’4” and bought an XL Vitus Nucleus but began getting shoulder pain and my thumbs started to hurt. Watching some other vids I determined my wingspan is 6’3” so am getting a shorter stem and possibly a larger sweep bar to counter that. Not able to ride for a month and a half from the shoulder pain and never even considered the pain in my mid back was from all the wrong muscles doing the work as my bikes reach was too long for my T-Rex arms! 🤪
Doddy I've got one question for you....got a Tomac automatic 120 with 26inch wheels can I put 27,5 inch in with no problems? because here in Holland 26inch wheel is hard to find.
I am among the sizes M-L the first 29 bike I bought according to the manufacturer's recommendation L. It did not turn out well. A year and a half of trouble. On the internet I came across articles and videos from Lee McCormack and his recommendation on how to choose the right size (RAD measurement) based on this recommendation I chose the new bike size M and it was the best decision I could make. Bike fits me much better in all directions.
Smaller is usually safer, more likely to fit....and more fun.
@@marcalvarez4890 I think most intermediate riders would say that the larger size is safer because the longer wheelbase increases stability at speed.
Its like listening to politicians talk lol
I’m 6ft and on a size small 27.5
Waiting for a large ordered in July still gonna have to wait a while😣
I'm about to build a NS Eccentric Cromo 29. It's size large hardtail with good wheel clearense. Building it as mullet so a fatter back tyre can be used is a good idea or not?
This is helpful, thanks. Another issue that often comes up in conversation is manufacturers who are not helpful indicating their bike is an All Mountain bike or Trail bike or Cross Country bike or Enduro bike or DH bike, etc. This is particularly confusing for many riders who are not clued up to bike measurements which 'imply" a certain kind of terrain or discipline of riding.
Good perspective, but nothing on the rear end / chainstay changing with frame size?
Hi Doddy, What are your views on R.A.D. (Rider Area Distance)?
Turns out you and I are the same size. Have you ever used RAD for sizing? Mine is 88cm but Im not clear on how to buy a bike based on RAD as it obviously is not listed. And typically bikes large enough for me are special order, not lying around a shop to be measured. Maybe a ques for the next Q and A, how do I submit one?
What do you do for a fast growing almost 13 year old? He's 5'5" but should hit at least 6'-0" by the time he's 14 (based on cousin's growth). Most manufacturer's say Medium, but I wonder if dropping better cash on a better size Large bike... In my part of Canada, everything is pre-order.
a well designed mtb should have the correct effective toptube given the reach length for someone that is average in size for the bike size. with longer reach numbers came the need to steepen the seat tube to keep the effective top tube in check to be comfortable sat down, which also helped full sus bikes pedal better because the pedal forces become more vertical the steeper the seat tube angle, making it easier to isolate pedalling forces from terrain forces
Yes. Also I fking hate how most manufacturers state only the ESTA, not giving any indication to on which height the seat was at, when measured and then fail to also provide the actual STA, which often gives a better indication of the reality of where your seat might be when pedalling, when you're a taller rider. I think the absolute minimum acceptable STA on a modern endurobike is 77°. Go lower than that and the seat has to be slammed as forward as possible and that isn't aesthetically pleasing, nor good for the saddle. (I've bent a couple this way) The bike industry, for the most part still has got a lot of improving to do to make mountain biking more welcoming to taller riders.. I'm not even *that* tall at 190cm, but am still facing a lot of issues with bike-sizing. Can't imagine the pain of someone, who's 2m.
Hair is lookinh very Tin Tin today there buddy! 😜
That Blake sound effect tho... 😁😁😁
Wow love bike very nice
Do we have also have "old mullet" ? 27,5" wheel in front and 26" on the back ?
I know you like a longer chainstay than most but, mullet on ebike I think has the most bang for buck there.
Doddy you still have your Foes I see. Rode mine for 20 years, which was way too long.
This video has slightly helped me I am just confused on what size frame I should get because cannondale says I should get an extra large but canyon says I should get a medium or large can anyone help me? I am 15 183cm (6ft), 186lbs I forget what my inner leg length is though.
#AskGMBNTech Hey Doddy, I was wondering if there is any benefit of an air negative spring instead of an actual spring for the negative air chamber. Suntour seems to still use spring loaded negative springs, whereas RS and fox use air as negative spring. Obviously weight is a huge plus for air, but is there more? Cheers, Patrick
for me personally in case of modern MTB there is perfect formula for measuring best fitting frame. Your Hight in centimeters multiply by 2.5 is the maximum reach of your bike
Doesn't work for me. I'm 175cmx2.5= 437. I would be between a M/L. The XL version of my bike has a reach of 425.
Or maybe I misunderstood your formula?
@@SirJamez0 you understood it, and as far as i see it works for you. max reach for you is 437 and bike with 425 is ok(it will be little shorter and more upright but it is perfectly ok, you just shouldn't exceed 437mm because after that bike will be to long and your back and shoulder will be sore after longer rides)
That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.. Stop spreading misinformation.
@@_Asiu I have tried the Large frame version of my bike and I was stretched on it, hence why I went for the Medium. I would be somewhere between Medium and Large. I would not have the reach for the XL version with 425 reach, never mind extend to 437.
@@th_js if you say so than I'm ok with that but ask guys who you think know something about bike fitting what R.A.D. is. Formula that I posted is just quick measurement for neutral R.A.D. frame, negative R.A.D. is manageable, even good for dirt bikes, and to big R.A.D. is bad for your back, shoulders and hands.
What torque wrench spec do I need for shifters and brake levers and grips on carbon bars I’m getting hope carbon bars, and seen a video on torque specs maximum or recommended so if it’s maximum it will be 15% to 20% on a torque wrench
Im going to have a new bike next year. The bike im looking for has 485reach on L and 510reach on XL. Its a Trail/Enduro bike. When i take my height and multiply with 2.5 i get 482.5. So i should go for Large, is that correct?
#askgmbntech I’m a master of irrelevant questions, but, Doddy, in few of your videos I saw you run your Canyon Lux with their CP0008 integrated cockpit. Absolutely love that slick and clean look. I have searched everywhere on the web but couldn’t find where to purchase that one. Any advice? (I’m 194cm like you) P.S. what were your feeling using it, what do you think of that type handlebars from different brands, would they become the future or it’s pointless?
I’m in Europe and I want to buy a 29 inches bike but the size frame come in 43, 48 and 53 mm, no idea which one to choose, I’m a short person so I think I would need to personally go to the bike shop and try it out
i got a Giant Talon in Large, im 6.3 feet tall, so i feel super comfy with that. U know, it's depends on you with which size do you prefer and feel comfortable.
That's pretty insane. I'm 190cm and a Talon in size L would be too small. I guess you're just used to it, try a properly sized bike with a reach of at least 500mm and a TT of 640mm max and you'll never ride your Talon again.
@@th_js Mmm maybe i try with that, thanks for the answer
@@Nachsosa go with what feels best for you, not what some UA-cam comment "expert" tells you. If it feels great & you can manoeuvre it well, & as you've already explained, it's "super comfy", keep choosing those geometry measurements in a bike.
no matter what the bike industry suggests, which by the way is all over the place.
The guy commenting is probably riding a bike way too large for him anyway.
@@josephfarrugia2350 Absolutely agree with you! The bike industry try to sell us whatever they want. If you have fun with your bike, no matter what type of size, just prove it and ride it. Thanks man!
Is it better to ride a bike that’s slightly smaller or slightly bigger? My dad and I are looking to buy a bike and he’s 6ft and i’m about 5’8. So he would want a large and me a medium. Would it be better for the both of us to purchase a large bike or a medium bike for us both to us?
@GMBN you guys should make a bike made specifically for a rider and his measurements
or maybe this was already don in te PRO world...
Im 5.5 n ride a talon 29er medium. Bike store said size small frame n larger wheels not good so went with medium
Lots of focus on Doddys tall guy issues naturally, but some of us have a particular issue - short legs relative to body. I'm 5ft10 or 178, so clearly a large at first glance - however I've got short legs.
Current size large frame has 470mm reach which is about right but comes with a 170mm dropper from factory - I can only run a 125mm! The nukeproof in the video is a really bad example, they have a very tall seat tube for a given length, not very modern (shame as its a frame I was interested in). Ibis seem to the be current king of short, straight seat tubes to suit people with long bodies/short legs!
This is also my problem too, I'm 5'6 and rides medium frame. My upper body fits right on the "reach" side but the seat tube seems too long for my short legs/long upper body. For my current bike I can only ride with 100mm of dropper
The measurement of the seatube of my bike is small for me but the top tube is too long and I experience lower backpain
Ummm..................
Any advice, I have a small, but my love spuds still touch the crossbar :(
Worse still, I have to get my weight all the way forward to not loop out, and right back descending to not go over the bars.
I went to a 90 mm stem, but I kept falling off, so I went down to 70mm (bike came with a 50mm)
Canyons fitting app said my measurements were outside the "Human norm" and to re measure :(
Could you do a video about seat suspension
Are you serious?
Top tubes are getting lower! Are they? With the wheels being bigger & in general forks getting longer and despite slacker head angles the front end of the average mountain bike is way higher. I'm 165cm with a 76cm inside leg and I've struggled to find even a small bike with a decent amount of standover height. According to Whyte's website a small Whyte 905 has a standover height of 78.3cm. Ouch!
I owe nukeproof scout and banshee paradox. Scout is bigger than paradox on the paper but paradox feels smaller than scout even with longer stem 🤷🏻♂️
Seat tube is pretty much irrelevant now (and should always have been), as long as it's not too tall for you, because you can always put your seatpost higher if you want. The reach is far more important.
How does one measure their actual reach? Is there a useful form or calculation of measurements that can then be used to make a choice between say a medium or large frame?
Also wondering this
The 29er feels better to me, I only rode 26 inch tires for years. No mountains just flat terrain with mountain bikes.
Im 6'3 and bought a Giant Trance X3 in XL ... website says i could take L ( so im between ).
that XL bike could be bigger to be honest. it should be "okay" for up to 6'10 and i can't imagine how someone that tall should ride it :D
Nobody should have to ride that bike.. It's just the bare minimum to get one out on the trails.
Contrary to what is stated in the video, not many S or XS frames seem have 27.5 wheels, Did companies do something magical or just decide that smaller people must have strained shoulders and backs, or have very slack head tubes for the convenience of the industry? Are 29ers easy enough for smaller people to manoeuvre? Maybe part2 of this vid could be from the view of a slightly less than average height woman? As far as I can see, most companies are still excluding that 25% of the population, and that seems more significant to me that Doddy repeatedly asking us to admire how tall he us. Admittedly it’s better than it used to be 25 years ago, where you had to be 5foot 8 to 5 foot 10 or you were out of luck. :-)
Air comes out from my brake and not working 😕 please help
I’m 5’6 what should I get I want the 29 tires
What Tweeks can you make to make your current size fit better, without screwing up balance too much. I'm 6'6" and most XL still aren't large enough
I'm 6'6" and most xl's feel slightly too big.
offset headset bearings/ cups to make the reach longer, stem but i wouldnt go above 50mm, wider handlebars but not too wide and longer cranks , be careful with pedalstrikes though
820mm handlebar with A LOT of rise and a 50-60mm stem.
Which Saddle is that? 🥰
Speaking of the xl Giant Talon I have, the chainstays are too damn short. Just going up a 20 deg grass incline, I nearly wheelie over backwards. Scary. The center of gravity is too far over the rear axle. You're pulling up on the handlebars, pushing down on pedals, and centered over the rear axle on an incline. Where is the common sense? And going down a 30 deg grass hill, I am nearly flipping over the front wheel hitting the little bumps in the ground. Very scary. And I think the same could be said about a lot of other bikes. Lengthen the wheelbases and chainstays and get the center of gravity lower by slanting the seatpost tube so you're not so high in icy and other hazardous conditions. They call them MTN bikes, but they can't even do the tiniest little inclines, at least, if your over 6ft2in or so. For M, L, and XL, they keep all the lengths and wheel base nearly the same, even though the riders will have much higher centers of gravity.
Ho boss can my mtb 24 inches wheel convert to 26 inches , thks
I think I'm doomed to be stuck between sizes.
I tried a friend's large Cube hardtail, I felt a bit stretched on it and I was basically sitting on the top tube while standing on the ground. So I bought a Medium Cube Attention SL hardtail as recommended by their website when I put my details in (175cm height 77cm leg). I feel like the reach is just too short for me, a bit cramped, I do have a long torso.
I'm thinking of getting a longer stem to stretch out that reach a bit but I'm afraid of ruining the handling if I do.
Any advice would be appreciated from anyone who bothered to read this far.
Longer stem won't ruin the handling unless its WAAAY too long. Try 25mm longer, one inch. Doesnt sound like a lot, but can help fit.
I paid 35$ for the exact stem i want to ride, just so i can have a second option to the one that comes with the bike. Stems are cheap, go get a longer one. Maybe two stems!
Also a negative rise stem will stretch you out, at the cost of more shoulder and hand weight. If its good enough for Nino, its ok for you to try.
I have a cube hardtail and found reach cramped. Used slightly longer stem as mentioned above and riser bars and it's sorted the problem. Also put saddle back a bit.
@@kisilvan Thanks for that advice, and to the previous reply, Mark. Its definitely give me the push to give it a try. I also find it a bit twitchy especially downhill so maybe the longer stem will help dampen that out. What riser bar did you go for if you don't mind me asking?
5:42 whats that sound? lol
Mullet: business up front, party in the back. It’s an American thing
Now the big question for me is.... what do you consider small?
What if I get large size bike and reduce reach by shorter stem and narrower handlebar...?
Is this good idea?
If u put a narrower handlebar the bike will become more twitchy and harder to maneuver smoothly.
@@SuperBakurahello,I only meant to go from 805mm down to 785.....would it make significant difference?
your hands will be 1 cm away from the tip on each side. If you can try to set the grips and controls a little toward the center and see what it feels like.
Shortening the stem will help to reduce the feeling of a narrower handlebar to some degree.
I think you'll quickly adapt if you decide to go on with the changes.
You can not change the reach of the bike by installing a shorter stem, or by installing a narrower handlebar. The only way you can change the reach on your bike is to buy a different frame, lower/lift up your stem, install a angled headset, install a reach-adjust headset, change fork-length or change front or rear tyre size, or even wheelsize.
Hi, is there anyone who is a 205 cm tall driver who can ride Commencal meta tr -2022 or 2023????, I am not able to try the bike because there is no shop in my country, I am interested if size XL would suit me, I am currently riding trek fuel ex8 2XL and it is bigger than Commencal, according to their (Commencal) geometry, xl suits me, now I am in a dilemma, I would buy a bike, but the size bothers me!! it's not like I'm the only tall one on a bike
How tall are you?
I’m 17 and I currently owe 300$ left of the 1,400 for a trek marlin 8 I had to get a M/L because that’s the only option all trek dealers had in my state. I’m 5’6 is a M/L good for me?
my guess is the bike doesn’t fit you the best or was intended for your height, however you could most likely easily get the bike to fit you properly with things like changing the stem or learning to move your weight more drastically over the bike
Yeah that’s good 👍🏻
Is a 26 inch bije big enough
I alway's adivize to try before you buy...Ha !
I'm 5'6 with a 26" inseam...I can't find even a small frame that I can stand over. 😭
How come on my 29 wheels they are only 25 in reality is this normal
Was confused but now I’m not
Hi Doddy, that stand over measure is the same as in the past was stack? i think stack was mostly for DH bikes bute went to Enduro and now seems to be in all MTBs, am I right?
Any 5'10 and a half ft tall (180cm/1.8meters) riders out there? Wanna share your frame sizes here?
5'10 here on a revel rail medium (450 reach) with a 50mm stem.
Everything functions properly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of UA-cam. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
Odd really that they use the centre of the head tube... that's really an arbitrary point in space as stem height, length, bar rise and rake all make that point ... uhhh pointless.
Reach should be to the middle of the line drawn from the centre of one hand grip to the other.
This way, if you set up any bike with your perfect reach... that figure should be able to be replicated on any frame that is close to your size....
Reach on a 'frame only' would be suggested only using a typical expected build...
“Still confuses a lot of people “ yea cause theres new people getting into the sport every day . Lol
Bikes have gotten longer and longer. I always size down when in-between
Mine is oversize large ! What ever that means these days !
5:42 ayo?
#AskGmbnTech How do you measure what reach is best for you?
Lee McCormack (LeeLikesBikes) suggests multiplying your height by 2.5 as a starting point to get a bike size optimum for your body.
(It's not a random number, it's based on well studied observations)
i`m a simple man, i want small wheels, the smallest frame i can fit my knees on and a jump i can hit.
Good on you! As long as you're having fun that's all that matters!
@@gmbntech absolutely agree, having fun is the point of MTB, i appreciate the work you guys are putting into this channel, keep it up and have a great rest of your day!
Actually I look at the effective top tube measurement, more then reach, to avoid too slack real seat tube angle, and a seat over the back axel… I suffer from long leg syndrome, and 90% of riding in the sattle.