I was searching all over with different keywords trying to figure out why there was distinct staircase steps on slight top surface slopes of my prints. I gave up and just started watching random videos hoping one would discuss it. Thank you so much for mentioning the adaptive layers. This was exactly the setting I was looking for.
Glad it helped! I'm assuming you are using Cura Slicer, if you ever use Orca Slicer at some point, it's Variable Layer Height. I also did a video for that one! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I watched a couple of your videos. I got to say man. I really like the way you break things down. It has been very helpful for me. My primary use for my 3D printers is cars. I've learned how difficult they are compared to when I do something Else. Thank you for the videos. They are Appreciated
@@pushingplastic7445 I'm looking at exterior parts. I've been doing body work and paint in the automotive industry for years. Always love doing custom one-off things. For years it was graphics done. Plenty of custom work with vinyl This is my next step
There are so many settings in Cura that the average Joe does not take advantage of, I was shocked when you said Adaptive Layers appeared in Cura in 2018, were do the years go? I remember everyone and their grandma were doing YT videos when they came out, I have an AL profile in my Cura and use it quite often when my parts have curves or step ups in them, Which machine did you print the Mario Mushrooms on?
I did the purple tops on an Ender 5, The white Dots on a stock Ender 3, the Black eyes on another Ender 3 and the gold stem on a Bambu Lab X1 since I wasn't applying the adaptive layers to the stem. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Nice to see videos on the topic, I barely ever switch Adaptive layers off. Something happened to your mic after you switched to Cura voiceover, and you might want to fix a typo in the Subscribe animation :)
I've been considering leaving it on for all prints as my default. Still haven't done it, but it does make sense to do so. Yes, I'm having problems with my recording setup. The headaches of a small UA-cam start up channel!
Thanks for the kind words. I leave the adaptive layers turned on in my profile (except for drafts), so I have it without forgetting to turn it on. Not that it's right or wrong, just throwing it out there! thanks for watching!
Are you going to update to Cura 5.3? I follow along pretty well, but sometimes the options you're setting are difficult for me to locate in 5.3. Well, today, I went up to 5.3.1. (sigh...)
I'm trying to get better feet on a model I'm getting reli bad step looking effect it's not very blended I use a 0.2 later height what would my best settings be?
By "not very blended", if the model is drawn blocky, adaptive layers won't smooth that out. IF the model is smooth with nice rounded transitions, try setting the Maximum variation to 0.08mm to get a minimum layer height of 0.12 mm and a max layer height of 0.28 mm. About the 5:30 point in the video, hope this helps!
Interestingly I just tried this with a simple model (18650 battery holder) with a 0.175mm height. It went from 5hr 9 min without adaptive layers enabled to 5hrs 48min with it enabled. Changing the same model to 0.0875 layer height it went from 10hrs 7 min without to 3 days 18 hrs 40 min with. I typically print with a 0.13125 layer height (95 of the time) and this gave a 6hr 53 min with it enabled and 7 hrs 42 min without. Just for fun I checked 0.044 layer height. It was 20hrs 12 min with and 9hrs 29min with. So definitely all over the place for my printer. lol I think this is a setting I'll be leaving disabled and just printing at a finer layer height.
You're using extremely small layer heights! With a 0.04 variation and a layer height of 0.175, that's giving you a range of 0.071 to 0.179 I wouldn't expect much of a time savings on that one or at a layer height of 0.044, that's super small to begin with! Sorry this one didn't work out for you but I appreciate the feedback. But now I have to look up what a 18650 battery is!
@@pushingplastic7445 Yeah...I know I default to a small layer height. My printer has an odd Z motor setup (a 7.5° 48-step motor coupled to 0.7 mm thread pitch M4 rod) and I'm a "quality over speed" type of guy. I do like to save a bit of time where I can but since most of what I print is utilitarian instead of decorative I have found (at least with my printer) that it greatly improves strength. When I print transparent PETG I go right to the 0.044 layer height to get it as clear as possible. Time be damned. I just finished a 17 hour print doing just that. 😁
@@Enjoymentboy I'm so curious now! What size nozzle do you use? 0.1 mm? I've never even thought about trying such a small layer height, I see a science project in my future!
@@pushingplastic7445 Actually I just stick with 0.4mm. I've got an assortment kit on the way with 0.2,0.5,0.6, 0.8 and 1mm and I'm planning on trying them all out and comparing with various layer heights. TBH when I was first given the printer back in Dec last year (it's a used MP select mini V2) I really didn't know much and I tried the normal 0.175mm setting in Cura. I then tried the fine 0.131 setting and liked it and just stuck with it.
@@Enjoymentboy That is so awesome! I have some 0.1 mm I got in a bundle pack. I haven't tried them, I was more interested in going up in size. I really like the idea of experimenting with those small layers!
Has anyone experienced bed warping after printing PETG? I increased my bed temperature and noticed later that one corner of my bed has risen to the point that I have to lower it to the max to get the printer nozzle to fit. I also leveled the Z axis with a print from thingiverse using two pieces of PLA to level the gantry. Not sure what the problem is. I've also started to run into a problem with supports turning into plastic shavings half way through my prints. I've slowed the printer to try to eliminate this. Today I'm running a 13 hour test print to check my printer calibration using cura's super quality settings. I'm running a Whambam PEX build plate and have the temp at 70 and the hot end at 205 using overture PLA. Oh, one other problem I've had is the nozzle hitting the print and knocking it lose even with zhop enabled and checking the flow rate and readjusting the feed rate where I have it set perfectly not to over or under extrude. I've got a bondtech extruder on my CR10S Pro and microswiss all metal hotend. I also recently changed out the x axis belt and its whisper quiet now. I know it's a lot of little problems but I'm kinda thinking that there should be one solution for the nozzle problem and the bed, I'm not sure if it's the bed warping or the z axis being off even after I leveled it.
Wow! You have a lot going on there! Let's see what we can figure out! I can honestly say that I never had bed warping after printing PETG or any other material. I'm not saying that it can't happen, it just hasn't happened to me. As for the supports turning to shavings. I'm guessing, and only guessing without seeing a picture or print, that you might be at the early stage of a clog. It could be there is not enough tension on the filament at the extruder. When it happens, it gives the symptoms of under extrusion. If it helps any, I usually print PLA with my bed temp at about 60 degrees, but all printers react differently. When the nozzle is hitting the print, are you hearing it hit as it passes over the infill? If that's the case, I'm guessing you aren't getting enough filament out of the nozzle. I see you have a Bondtech extruder. Is that something you added? And if so, did you recalculate your eSteps? If not, go ahead and do that and a lot of your issues will go away. The is a video on my channel to calculate eSteps. After eSteps, watch the video on setting your flow rate. I'm going to assume that the X Axis belt change isn't causing any of these problems since you haven't mentioned layer shifting. But just to be safe, give it a push to make sure it's tight. I hope there is something here that can help with these problems! Keep me posted!
@@pushingplastic7445 I think I have my problem solved and thank you. I did have some issues in cura 3.0 with doing my flow rate. It stopped me from taking the top off the cube and setting the side thickness at .8. I had to do 1.2 but I adjusted the math and got a number. I'm pretty close. Going to try this tie fighter again and see if it prints better. Thank's!
Cura is a good slicer but I wouldn't say it's superior in almost every way. I use Orca, Bambu Studio, Cura and Creality Print. They all have their good and bad points. It's up to each user to determine what's best for them.
@@pushingplastic7445 Prusa-derivatives have, for one, a peculiar profile hierarchy. Plus the settings are all over, woth some print PROCESS settings birried in filament profiles. They also do not have driven settings. User is forced to change 6-10 speed values instead of one, as in Cura. It's all known. Just hard to acknowledge by fanboys.
I was searching all over with different keywords trying to figure out why there was distinct staircase steps on slight top surface slopes of my prints. I gave up and just started watching random videos hoping one would discuss it. Thank you so much for mentioning the adaptive layers. This was exactly the setting I was looking for.
Glad it helped! I'm assuming you are using Cura Slicer, if you ever use Orca Slicer at some point, it's Variable Layer Height. I also did a video for that one! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!
I watched a couple of your videos. I got to say man. I really like the way you break things down. It has been very helpful for me. My primary use for my 3D printers is cars. I've learned how difficult they are compared to when I do something Else. Thank you for the videos. They are Appreciated
Thanks! Those kind words are much appreciated! Thanks for watching!!!! What kind of 3D work are you doing with cars? Body? Interior?
@@pushingplastic7445 I'm looking at exterior parts. I've been doing body work and paint in the automotive industry for years. Always love doing custom one-off things. For years it was graphics done. Plenty of custom work with vinyl This is my next step
@@ljkauffman7770 Body work, my biggest weakness! I have not mastered that at all!!!
brilliant! Have not tried to print with adaptive layers yet but wil give it a try now for sure.
Nice! Post your results! Thanks for watching!
Very useful video. Thanks.
Πολύ χρήσιμο βιντεο.
I just set it to .28 and it works out fine. Maybe I'll try out .30 height.
Give it a shot!! Let me know how it works out for you!
Uggh!! I was so wrong on my settings!! Heading to the cave and changing those now
I hope the video helped!
Men you are very cool explaning all the stuff, I got it simple and fast.
Thank you! I hope it helped! Thanks for watching!
I love in this dudes videos when the dude looks into the camera and says Pushing Plastic
There are so many settings in Cura that the average Joe does not take advantage of, I was shocked when you said Adaptive Layers appeared in Cura in 2018, were do the years go? I remember everyone and their grandma were doing YT videos when they came out, I have an AL profile in my Cura and use it quite often when my parts have curves or step ups in them, Which machine did you print the Mario Mushrooms on?
I did the purple tops on an Ender 5, The white Dots on a stock Ender 3, the Black eyes on another Ender 3 and the gold stem on a Bambu Lab X1 since I wasn't applying the adaptive layers to the stem. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
awesome explanation my friend!!! thank you very much, you earned a like and a SUB!!!
Thanks for those kind words and thanks for the SUB!!!
Very nice video learned a lot.
Awesome! I'm glad it helped, thanks very much for watching!
Good stuff again! I’m going to give this a try. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Awesome! Looking forward to see how it works out for you!! Thanks for watching!
so so useful information and grate description .. many thanks
Thank you, hope it helped! Thanks for watching!
Nice to see videos on the topic, I barely ever switch Adaptive layers off.
Something happened to your mic after you switched to Cura voiceover, and you might want to fix a typo in the Subscribe animation :)
I've been considering leaving it on for all prints as my default. Still haven't done it, but it does make sense to do so. Yes, I'm having problems with my recording setup. The headaches of a small UA-cam start up channel!
Nicely explained. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!! And thanks for watching!!
Awesome explanation thanks!
Thanks for the kind words. I leave the adaptive layers turned on in my profile (except for drafts), so I have it without forgetting to turn it on. Not that it's right or wrong, just throwing it out there! thanks for watching!
yes it helped me out. thanks for explaining everything. subscribed!
Awesome! Keep on printing and thanks for watching!!!
Thank you!
brilliant !!
btw love the shirt
Thanks for the kind review & thanks for watching!
@@mystic1of1 Thanks, it's from Amazon!
Are you going to update to Cura 5.3? I follow along pretty well, but sometimes the options you're setting are difficult for me to locate in 5.3. Well, today, I went up to 5.3.1. (sigh...)
After reading your comment I went and downloaded 5.3.1. It's installing as I type this and will use it for future videos!
Great! I look forward to your thoughts and comments about it.
I'm trying to get better feet on a model I'm getting reli bad step looking effect it's not very blended I use a 0.2 later height what would my best settings be?
By "not very blended", if the model is drawn blocky, adaptive layers won't smooth that out. IF the model is smooth with nice rounded transitions, try setting the Maximum variation to 0.08mm to get a minimum layer height of 0.12 mm and a max layer height of 0.28 mm. About the 5:30 point in the video, hope this helps!
@@pushingplastic7445 so 0.8 at the top setting 0.08 lower setting and the 3rd setting 0.28?
great explanation. thank you
I want to get perfect mushrooms lol any advise please
Interestingly I just tried this with a simple model (18650 battery holder) with a 0.175mm height. It went from 5hr 9 min without adaptive layers enabled to 5hrs 48min with it enabled. Changing the same model to 0.0875 layer height it went from 10hrs 7 min without to 3 days 18 hrs 40 min with. I typically print with a 0.13125 layer height (95 of the time) and this gave a 6hr 53 min with it enabled and 7 hrs 42 min without. Just for fun I checked 0.044 layer height. It was 20hrs 12 min with and 9hrs 29min with. So definitely all over the place for my printer. lol I think this is a setting I'll be leaving disabled and just printing at a finer layer height.
You're using extremely small layer heights! With a 0.04 variation and a layer height of 0.175, that's giving you a range of 0.071 to 0.179 I wouldn't expect much of a time savings on that one or at a layer height of 0.044, that's super small to begin with! Sorry this one didn't work out for you but I appreciate the feedback. But now I have to look up what a 18650 battery is!
@@pushingplastic7445 Yeah...I know I default to a small layer height. My printer has an odd Z motor setup (a 7.5° 48-step motor coupled to 0.7 mm thread pitch M4 rod) and I'm a "quality over speed" type of guy. I do like to save a bit of time where I can but since most of what I print is utilitarian instead of decorative I have found (at least with my printer) that it greatly improves strength. When I print transparent PETG I go right to the 0.044 layer height to get it as clear as possible. Time be damned. I just finished a 17 hour print doing just that. 😁
@@Enjoymentboy I'm so curious now! What size nozzle do you use? 0.1 mm? I've never even thought about trying such a small layer height, I see a science project in my future!
@@pushingplastic7445 Actually I just stick with 0.4mm. I've got an assortment kit on the way with 0.2,0.5,0.6, 0.8 and 1mm and I'm planning on trying them all out and comparing with various layer heights. TBH when I was first given the printer back in Dec last year (it's a used MP select mini V2) I really didn't know much and I tried the normal 0.175mm setting in Cura. I then tried the fine 0.131 setting and liked it and just stuck with it.
@@Enjoymentboy That is so awesome! I have some 0.1 mm I got in a bundle pack. I haven't tried them, I was more interested in going up in size. I really like the idea of experimenting with those small layers!
Has anyone experienced bed warping after printing PETG? I increased my bed temperature and noticed later that one corner of my bed has risen to the point that I have to lower it to the max to get the printer nozzle to fit. I also leveled the Z axis with a print from thingiverse using two pieces of PLA to level the gantry. Not sure what the problem is. I've also started to run into a problem with supports turning into plastic shavings half way through my prints. I've slowed the printer to try to eliminate this. Today I'm running a 13 hour test print to check my printer calibration using cura's super quality settings. I'm running a Whambam PEX build plate and have the temp at 70 and the hot end at 205 using overture PLA. Oh, one other problem I've had is the nozzle hitting the print and knocking it lose even with zhop enabled and checking the flow rate and readjusting the feed rate where I have it set perfectly not to over or under extrude. I've got a bondtech extruder on my CR10S Pro and microswiss all metal hotend. I also recently changed out the x axis belt and its whisper quiet now. I know it's a lot of little problems but I'm kinda thinking that there should be one solution for the nozzle problem and the bed, I'm not sure if it's the bed warping or the z axis being off even after I leveled it.
Wow! You have a lot going on there! Let's see what we can figure out! I can honestly say that I never had bed warping after printing PETG or any other material. I'm not saying that it can't happen, it just hasn't happened to me. As for the supports turning to shavings. I'm guessing, and only guessing without seeing a picture or print, that you might be at the early stage of a clog. It could be there is not enough tension on the filament at the extruder. When it happens, it gives the symptoms of under extrusion. If it helps any, I usually print PLA with my bed temp at about 60 degrees, but all printers react differently. When the nozzle is hitting the print, are you hearing it hit as it passes over the infill? If that's the case, I'm guessing you aren't getting enough filament out of the nozzle. I see you have a Bondtech extruder. Is that something you added? And if so, did you recalculate your eSteps? If not, go ahead and do that and a lot of your issues will go away. The is a video on my channel to calculate eSteps. After eSteps, watch the video on setting your flow rate. I'm going to assume that the X Axis belt change isn't causing any of these problems since you haven't mentioned layer shifting. But just to be safe, give it a push to make sure it's tight. I hope there is something here that can help with these problems! Keep me posted!
@@pushingplastic7445 I think I have my problem solved and thank you. I did have some issues in cura 3.0 with doing my flow rate. It stopped me from taking the top off the cube and setting the side thickness at .8. I had to do 1.2 but I adjusted the math and got a number. I'm pretty close. Going to try this tie fighter again and see if it prints better. Thank's!
@@brianeckley4388 Nice! Good luck!!
you need a "Tub of Shame" T-Shirt
Hmmmm....is that a fat joke? 😀
Nice video much to slow to follow
Noted
You can always increase playback speed to 1.25
Good idea
BambuLab supporting only the Prusa-derivative slicers is an absolute tragedy! Cura is superior in almost every way, especially to newcommers!
Cura is a good slicer but I wouldn't say it's superior in almost every way. I use Orca, Bambu Studio, Cura and Creality Print. They all have their good and bad points. It's up to each user to determine what's best for them.
@@pushingplastic7445 Prusa-derivatives have, for one, a peculiar profile hierarchy. Plus the settings are all over, woth some print PROCESS settings birried in filament profiles. They also do not have driven settings. User is forced to change 6-10 speed values instead of one, as in Cura. It's all known. Just hard to acknowledge by fanboys.
@@Tome4kkkk Again, you're entitled to your opinion, I just don't agree with it.
*Promo SM*