For the attempt at 5:40, I would design the print with the entire width of the gap a single layer so it makes a big rectangular bridge and then the next layer would print the desired shape. The post print cleanup would involve shaving or cutting that single sacrificial layer off. Might not look the cleanest but I print functional parts and it's only a light touch of sandpaper to smooth any jaggies.
Great info. I need to get my Fokoos Odin5 better at bridging (it really sucks right now). Also, I did not know about the cura settings guide, so thanks for that! 👍
This is a great video. My first thought went right to making supports for my miniature. Couple of spots over the base that need help. If I somehow work a bridge in for those spots to be built on it will work great, thanks!
@@TheNextGreatGamer As a general rule slowing down a bit for bridges and increasing fan speed will help, yeah. There are settings in most slicers for it.
I like to keep bridging on in Cura just for the slower print speed and having the lines run parallel over gaps. Even if its only on for one layer, and while keeping the flow/width settings the same as the rest of my print, it seems to improve the quality of unsupported ceilings.
Well that's annoying...but I can't do anything about it...I guess. Algorithm gonna do what it's gonna do. I assume you did the whole click the bell thing?
@@LostInTech3D I know. It's not on you at all. I'm just complaining in general. No to the bell. I have almost EVERY notification disabled & it pisses my wife off. hehe
I just have the notifications off, which means clicking the bell doesn't actually make a notification. Which...I'm not sure what it does instead. Probably nothing.
For curved bridges, I like to design a straight-line bridge and then use 60° angled overhangs to quickly build up to the curved shape you would see from above.
by placing correct amount of metered flow of a fan on build plate going straight up on a 2 axis gyro and a camera to detect print movement thus adjusting fan direction i was able to do a in air print just hovering. Saved me some bed blue. haha
@@LostInTech3D I think more people would be interested in the noise end of the fans. You can get an increase in overhang angles with better airflow but that only seems to vary from 50-60° stock to 70° with better fan ducts. You've shown a fair amount of knowledge when it comes to the board and I would be interested to see how you would set up buck converters and such to put quieter fans on the board.. sorry I can ramble at times
Somewhere out there someone did a video on using layers to support bridges, I can't remember who. But using it to support curves is far more interesting. In the far but not so far future it would be possible to automate your guided bridging and add it into slicers, though that would not only require one paper on the topic but several papers. It's mostly a question of geometry, no? I look forward to slicing requiring 10 minutes per file in 10 years, even if we'll be thankful for the features it provides.
To support odd-shaped bridges (like the taper or the inside of the curve), you could also make a larger bridge than you need for one layer, which could be easily cut off after it's finished, a bit like the trick for printing counterbored holes on the bottom of parts. I feel like slicers could really improve this -- in theory both of those impossible bridges could be made by starting with a normal bridge in a straight line between the supports, then extending it out on either side with more parallel lines. These would need to be attached to the bridge at one or both ends with some kind of wipe, but maybe it'd work if your settings are just right.
A concept i want to explore is pridging supports, use bridging to create a base for supports that the actual print can then be built on. So you dont need towers or walls of supports stretching from the plate up to some distant overhang, or from a surface you would rather keep pristine. I just saw a mask where I think this would have been useful. The top of the eye slots had issues and were way off the plate and kinda recessed so support would have been difficult slow and expensive in material.
@@coaltowking That's why you should rotate the printer while printing. Half the time it sags upwards, half the time it sags down => everything cancels out, no sagging. Trust me, I'm an engineer. Or just print in zero gravity, simple as that.
I dont know where i saw this but someone was using abs and printing each line quite fast so when the printer reached the end the one strand was still hot and sagging but just seconds later it cooled and shrunk which made the bridge perfect with no sagging
I still support for putting supports under long distances. But like Eiffel tower which has small gaps on it, it can be cancelled to return for bridging..
Abs with large bridging surface, high fan can be enough to warp whole the print. With ABS bridging fan speed must still be calibrated based on filament warpyness.
Coming from Slic3r/Prusa where this is active by default, it took quite some time to figure it out. This video was a great help. Any follow up on how to exploit this feature with PETG which I find a "bridge non-friendly" filament.
Maybe with this "late sagging" you can use bridging, but put a single support bar in the middle with one layer gap. That way the support wont stick, but the sagging can be managed.
Some printers (usually diy) have cooling that is too overpowered to have at 100% during bridging. My railcore bridges best at 60-80% fan speed. I only turn it to 100% if I'm printing at ridiculous speeds with a large nozzle. Since you want to go slow when bridging, I don't need that kind of cooling.
Set Settings Visibility in Preferences to All, it will ungrey ;) If not, the same setting is in the three lines menu at the top of the settings list, sometimes mine switches to Expert and that makes Bridging settings grey.
1:00 What, it can be not purple? Why would you even want a non-purple! You've mostly skipped the settings though, is it just tick that box for bridging, set the fan to 100% from the 3rd layer and go?..
@@LostInTech3D Who's everyone? I have two boards in my _box_ , different manufacturers and both are blue! Blue is the new green for boards apparently ;)
Problem with Cura bridging settings is too many 😅 In Prusa slicer it's like fat/normal, flow, speed and fan speed, and support or not - and defaults seem to work quite well (depending who made the profile for non-Prusa printer). In Cura there are probably 30 settings divided to first, second and maybe third+ layers 🙄
Sooo... in the end you are encouraging to turn on bridging and reduce fan cooling on certain layers?????????????????? There is a LOT very vague here. I am sure you have a good take on it since you have actually done it but after watching the video I can't tell what you are recommending? A reply would be nice but this video is 8 months old so I don't expect you to have the time really to do it. VERY interesting though 👍👍👍
I'm terribly dyslexic and have a hard time taking information away from reading so be a pal & make that hour long reading video for me why don't cha. jk, but only kinda. 😁
Personally I never really used Cura. I went from Slic3r to Prusa Slicer. And I took bridges for granted my whole 3D printing life. Slic3r was able to do that at least since 2013 or something. It blows my mind that it is apparently needed to be introduced to people in the Cura universe.
I actually try to have bridges in place of support material whenever possible, but I tend to use Slic3r and its derivatives, where Bridging has always been supported from the get-go.
@@LostInTech3D True, but I also have to dial in my supports. either they don't seem to do much and I get pretty poor overhangs anyway, or they stick too well and turns into a pain to cleanly remove.. that model where you pointed out in the video that it had good bridging results, looks super good, like it was printed lying down
@@LostInTech3D Could be.. I should probably upgrade mine :p I tried designing my own dual nozzle duct, as I have just been using a simple single nozzle on one side, but I didn't see any improvement at all. So.. more fans? 2 5015 blowers instead of 1? hehe
If you're going to do screen recording and then blow it up and put it in a video, then for the love of all that is holy you have to disable subpixel antialiasing if you don't want it to end up looking like a ranbowy mess.
Interesting as always!! 👍And we are proud of the SV01 PRO with the good printing results, thank you very much for making the good content with it!
Just bought an sv01 Pro as my first printer and I love it. It has been easy to
use with great results. I try to suggest it to anyone asking on reddit.
I hit like the moment you started with the add, just because I thought well done buddy, you got an sponsor! Well done.
Haha, thanks! ;)
For the attempt at 5:40, I would design the print with the entire width of the gap a single layer so it makes a big rectangular bridge and then the next layer would print the desired shape. The post print cleanup would involve shaving or cutting that single sacrificial layer off. Might not look the cleanest but I print functional parts and it's only a light touch of sandpaper to smooth any jaggies.
yeah seems like a good idea!
Great info. I need to get my Fokoos Odin5 better at bridging (it really sucks right now). Also, I did not know about the cura settings guide, so thanks for that! 👍
there you are 😊 Adam
This is a great video. My first thought went right to making supports for my
miniature. Couple of spots over the base that need help. If I somehow work a
bridge in for those spots to be built on it will work great, thanks!
Appreciate the comments 👍
I find the bridge setting very useful for PETG, where I usually don't want to run the fan, but can enable it for bridges.
Exactly why I came to this video. Trying to get some nice results with transparent PETG and some bridging is required on a large print.
@@802Garage Any luck getting nice results? If so what worked?
@@TheNextGreatGamer As a general rule slowing down a bit for bridges and increasing fan speed will help, yeah. There are settings in most slicers for it.
Very well explained video and great tips 👏😎
..I wonder what other challenges we should “inspire” you with.. 👀
I'm always ready for challenges 👍👍
I like to keep bridging on in Cura just for the slower print speed and having the lines run parallel over gaps. Even if its only on for one layer, and while keeping the flow/width settings the same as the rest of my print, it seems to improve the quality of unsupported ceilings.
I haven't been getting your vids recommended for awhile now. I have to go look for them.
Hmph. This is why I always go to my subscription feed when I use UA-cam for watching.
@@LostInTech3D I am subbed but I sub to allot of channels. When most have a new vid, they tend to pop up in my feed. Yours aren't.
Well that's annoying...but I can't do anything about it...I guess. Algorithm gonna do what it's gonna do. I assume you did the whole click the bell thing?
@@LostInTech3D I know. It's not on you at all. I'm just complaining in general.
No to the bell. I have almost EVERY notification disabled & it pisses my wife off. hehe
I just have the notifications off, which means clicking the bell doesn't actually make a notification. Which...I'm not sure what it does instead. Probably nothing.
the guided bridging is brilliant.
Nice! I cheated on that model when I did it also, by aligning rectilinear infil with the direction of the bridge, so bridges inside bridges.
That's a good tip...I'm taking notes!
For curved bridges, I like to design a straight-line bridge and then use 60° angled overhangs to quickly build up to the curved shape you would see from above.
Yeah that's a good way to do it
by placing correct amount of metered flow of a fan on build plate going straight up on a 2 axis gyro and a camera to detect print movement thus adjusting fan direction i was able to do a in air print just hovering. Saved me some bed blue. haha
Very nice. Helps to understand this function. THX
Can't wait for you to make your way to cooling fans. Soo many claims to be the best/quietest fans/ducts
Ah, huge can of worms there. Where would you even begin?!
@@LostInTech3D I think more people would be interested in the noise end of the fans. You can get an increase in overhang angles with better airflow but that only seems to vary from 50-60° stock to 70° with better fan ducts. You've shown a fair amount of knowledge when it comes to the board and I would be interested to see how you would set up buck converters and such to put quieter fans on the board.. sorry I can ramble at times
Awesome video!
But also like... what cura settings would help us bridge better?
Good idea for a future video
Somewhere out there someone did a video on using layers to support bridges, I can't remember who. But using it to support curves is far more interesting. In the far but not so far future it would be possible to automate your guided bridging and add it into slicers, though that would not only require one paper on the topic but several papers. It's mostly a question of geometry, no?
I look forward to slicing requiring 10 minutes per file in 10 years, even if we'll be thankful for the features it provides.
To support odd-shaped bridges (like the taper or the inside of the curve), you could also make a larger bridge than you need for one layer, which could be easily cut off after it's finished, a bit like the trick for printing counterbored holes on the bottom of parts.
I feel like slicers could really improve this -- in theory both of those impossible bridges could be made by starting with a normal bridge in a straight line between the supports, then extending it out on either side with more parallel lines. These would need to be attached to the bridge at one or both ends with some kind of wipe, but maybe it'd work if your settings are just right.
Good ideas... you could also maybe test around perforations or maybe making it thinner like a brim!
A concept i want to explore is pridging supports, use bridging to create a base for supports that the actual print can then be built on. So you dont need towers or walls of supports stretching from the plate up to some distant overhang, or from a surface you would rather keep pristine. I just saw a mask where I think this would have been useful. The top of the eye slots had issues and were way off the plate and kinda recessed so support would have been difficult slow and expensive in material.
Yeah I've thought about this before. Support strategies could definitely do with catching up, there's quite a lot of potential there.
6:44 you could also use a setting called "infill support"
I forgot this feature existed. Now I don’t have to worry so much about some of my prints since I print them at 100mm/s
Interesting as always
Thanks for sharing your results :-)
the outro music is fire
I didn’t need PCB’s and now I’m ordering PCB’s.
Great videos as always!
Thank you 👍👍👍
What about turning the printer upside down ?
The best ideas always are in the comments...I'm writing that down 👍
That seems risky. It would still be unsupported, but any sagging would potentially catch on the hotend on the next layer and ruin your print.
@@coaltowking That's why you should rotate the printer while printing. Half the time it sags upwards, half the time it sags down => everything cancels out, no sagging. Trust me, I'm an engineer. Or just print in zero gravity, simple as that.
Jokes aside, rotating it to sideways would make bridging entirely ordinary!
@@PenPeng why not just toss it from a plane, so it can print properly, then collect it later?
I dont know where i saw this but someone was using abs and printing each line quite fast so when the printer reached the end the one strand was still hot and sagging but just seconds later it cooled and shrunk which made the bridge perfect with no sagging
3dprintbunny on twitter shared a clip of it just the other day, it's fascinating.
I still support for putting supports under long distances. But like Eiffel tower which has small gaps on it, it can be cancelled to return for bridging..
So why not print a cross (X) to start with? So that the very first string, supports the very next one at least in the middle.
Abs with large bridging surface, high fan can be enough to warp whole the print. With ABS bridging fan speed must still be calibrated based on filament warpyness.
ABS warps if you look at it wrong 😁
Coming from Slic3r/Prusa where this is active by default, it took quite some time to figure it out. This video was a great help.
Any follow up on how to exploit this feature with PETG which I find a "bridge non-friendly" filament.
I'll consider it, because yeah, I've had these problems with PETG.
Bridge over troubled infill... 😁
So would there be any disadvantage of having bridging mode always on? Or would it interfere with supports if you use some?
I think it's better on to be honest, I also dont hear many complaints from prusaslicer users, where it's the default there.
Maybe with this "late sagging" you can use bridging, but put a single support bar in the middle with one layer gap. That way the support wont stick, but the sagging can be managed.
good idea...I can see a second video being possible on all these ideas in the comments.
Some printers (usually diy) have cooling that is too overpowered to have at 100% during bridging. My railcore bridges best at 60-80% fan speed. I only turn it to 100% if I'm printing at ridiculous speeds with a large nozzle. Since you want to go slow when bridging, I don't need that kind of cooling.
my bridging is grayed out in cura how do i turn it on?
I'm not sure what you mean by grayed out? You can share some pics on our discord if you want some help with it, we should be able to work it out!
Set Settings Visibility in Preferences to All, it will ungrey ;) If not, the same setting is in the three lines menu at the top of the settings list, sometimes mine switches to Expert and that makes Bridging settings grey.
HOW BRIDGING BEHAVES WHEN THE PRINTER IS UPSIDE DOWN?
that....is an interesting question. I might try it!
@@LostInTech3D Yes. Please do it \😍/
thank you :)
There, now you have 1000 likes!!
Any thought or tips about bringing when printing TPU?
I didn't even approach that in this video...but it would make a whole episode in itself or part of the half done episode I have on tpu/arachne :)
it works!
1:00 What, it can be not purple? Why would you even want a non-purple!
You've mostly skipped the settings though, is it just tick that box for bridging, set the fan to 100% from the 3rd layer and go?..
everyone is doing purple! I am a contrarian.
@@LostInTech3D Who's everyone?
I have two boards in my _box_ , different manufacturers and both are blue! Blue is the new green for boards apparently ;)
Fine. Yellow then. Ugh...
@@LostInTech3D Or maybe two 🎶
Hello,
How thick ist the single line comming from Nozzle. I want to Design string Art in Solidworks.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Oh, you need to talk to / look at the stuff 3dprintbunny makes.
@@LostInTech3D thank you so much. I apprecciate it.
Problem with Cura bridging settings is too many 😅
In Prusa slicer it's like fat/normal, flow, speed and fan speed, and support or not - and defaults seem to work quite well (depending who made the profile for non-Prusa printer). In Cura there are probably 30 settings divided to first, second and maybe third+ layers 🙄
I think maybe 5-10 settings but yeah, most of them you can seemingly ignore
Sooo...
in the end you are encouraging to turn on bridging and reduce fan cooling on certain layers??????????????????
There is a LOT very vague here. I am sure you have a good take on it since you have actually done it but after watching the video I can't tell what you are recommending?
A reply would be nice but this video is 8 months old so I don't expect you to have the time really to do it.
VERY interesting though 👍👍👍
Resume?
Bridging always active?
Fan at the first layer always 100%
When to not use this feature?
The slicer should be inteeligent enough to use it when needed. KI will be a biiig releaf besides of becoming our potential biggest threat.
Klipper related videos please and thank you
Haha okay. I have to learn that stuff myself first 🤣
@@LostInTech3D please do so. You're awesome, your videos never disappoint, I'm sure a large portion of your audience uses klipper anyway.
The puns in this are shameless. Made me laugh.
Definitely a bridge too far.
I'm terribly dyslexic and have a hard time taking information away from reading so be a pal & make that hour long reading video for me why don't cha.
jk, but only kinda. 😁
Personally I never really used Cura. I went from Slic3r to Prusa Slicer. And I took bridges for granted my whole 3D printing life. Slic3r was able to do that at least since 2013 or something. It blows my mind that it is apparently needed to be introduced to people in the Cura universe.
Haha, I'm not surprised it was introduced in 2018 but I am surprised it's still experimental
I've always scratched my head when it comes to bridging, so I resort to making my models in a way I almost don't get any haha
Me too, I think we need to see more bridging in prints though!
I actually try to have bridges in place of support material whenever possible, but I tend to use Slic3r and its derivatives, where Bridging has always been supported from the get-go.
@@LostInTech3D True, but I also have to dial in my supports. either they don't seem to do much and I get pretty poor overhangs anyway, or they stick too well and turns into a pain to cleanly remove..
that model where you pointed out in the video that it had good bridging results, looks super good, like it was printed lying down
I'm convinced it's the cooling, I think the answer is always better cooling.
@@LostInTech3D Could be.. I should probably upgrade mine :p
I tried designing my own dual nozzle duct, as I have just been using a simple single nozzle on one side, but I didn't see any improvement at all. So.. more fans? 2 5015 blowers instead of 1? hehe
The real question is do you like asking rhetorical questions?
I guess I do?
2018 seems like yesterday:(
You should like to complicate stuff. How about using a support.😂😂😂
If you're going to do screen recording and then blow it up and put it in a video, then for the love of all that is holy you have to disable subpixel antialiasing if you don't want it to end up looking like a ranbowy mess.
The takeawayis that cura's bridging algorithm is utter garbage.
Frankly its the main reason i use prusaslicer.
never use red color for showing problems.
use metallic/grays.
never use red or lime-green or any "toxic" colors.