My father got it for me in 2010,then i played for two years,one day my game crashed and i couldnt play anymore,and now,in 2022 i found it and it still works!! Like bro im so happy 😁
Excellent video. You made me realise avenues of repair that I had previously thought were possible! This inspires me to buy a soldering kit and multimeter and attempt some of these repairs myself, rather than to keep buying Xboxes for spare parts as I have been. Thank you
Oh have I got a tale to tell. Goodwill outlet store. Everyone ignored the Xbox. Scored it for $5. Worked fine (ish). Needed a cleaning (worked good as stock afterwards, and provided a great excuse to modchip it).
@Artifact Electronics the Xbox in question is a revision 1.6, recognizable by the Gold clock capacitor next to the motherboard IDE connector and the Xcalibur video chip behind the GPU when viewing from the front of the console, the hard drive is 10GB in capacity, and the Philips optical drive is a DVD drive and not a CD drive. I would also suggest that questions by other UA-cam users about problems with their original Xboxes would best be directed to the OriginalXbox Reddit after first reading the information located beyond the links provided in the sidebar so they can best word their questions and avoid redundant topics.
Thank you sir, I am French, but thanks to your impeccable speech I learned a lot. I have two Xbox first generation like yours but for Europe. I have to change the DVD player on one or the optical laser head and because of its old age replace its thermal paste will do him the greatest good. You are a good teacher, congratulations and thank you for sharing your knowledge very helpful.Sorry for my English.Good continuation.
lol, when you realize that the xbox is being hooked up to a sony tv. but seriously great video. My original xbox has died for some reason, so this helps me understand what might be wrong. Thanks!
I am surprised to see how dirty the inside is. Mine is from 2003 and I have opened it for the first time 15 years after purchasing and it was like super cleam, almost. I love my original Xbox, still playing with it my old games.
your console is a v1.6. its an easy catch to figure out. the v1.6 motherboards didnt have the spare open pads for more ram, and the clock capacitor was moved to by the ide port and is gold in color. if you have a v1.6 console its both a blessing and a curse. a blessing in the newer capacitor the gold one they used never seems to bulge and blow, however they removed the extra ram pads on the board and killed the ability to easily add a mod chip by messing up the lpc area on the motherboard. lots of people were modchipping these and installing bigger drives and even installing sata hard drives, plus with a softmod you can easily rip games to the hard drive and then play the games directly from the hard drive. i have a zombie ghost xbox as i like to call it. i got it out of a game store in fully functional condition, but opened it and found it to be a v1.6 console. i eventually softmodded it and had it running unleash xbox, then tried to rebuild the lpc on the motherboard to add an aladdin xt mod chip to it and ruined the board. i bought a v1.4 motherboard with a custom bios and upgraded ram to 128mb and the seller unlocked my 1tb hd that i had locked to the motherboard using chimp to transfer data over. the seller also cleaned up the board quite a bit. it works great and has no issues and the extra ram makes it load up quick, plus i have a bunch of games ripped to it and have roms and emulators on it. its in a clear ghost case and i have led lights in it too, along with a bigger cooling fan to keep it cool.
I haven't had any problem with recuilding the LPC header, takes like 10 minutes if just using wires, but I like those pcb's that just set on & solder in to do the rebuild fast & neat
I realize im late to this, but the clock capacitor needs to be removed ASAP from any mobo revision other than v1.6. The xbox can work perfectly without it (other than v1.6 which has a good cap anyways). Those capacitors specifically have a 99% track record for failing, so it will aways leak eventually. A replacement is not necessary, but you can replace it with a higher capacity so the clock will keep time for days instead of hours while unplugged.
I will tell you a secret. The clock cap in those early boards had a voltage rating that was to low to safely handle the real in circuit voltage with enough tolerance. It took a while for them to fail, but it was worse because of that wrong part selection. It should have been 6 to 12 volts. I agree the 1.6 has a better rated cap.
Capacitors 101: there is a rating on every cap (+/- 10%). That literally means that's the tolerance for a bad cap. If the rating is 3300uf then 330uf in either direction means bad cap. Both you measured were bad. Odds are every cap on that board is on its way out. They should all be replaced. And that was so much thermal paste it made me cringe. Less it's more as long it covers the whole die.
Mine has T20 screws on the bottom and T10 on the inside. Ver. 1 was an 8Gb hard drive and later versions used 10 Gb drives, Oh and that's a DVD not a CD rom drive. There should be 11 screws on the motherboard not 10.
I changed the thermal paste a while ago and the old one didn’t came out so easily. I tried alcohol and acetone but neither worked for me. So I put some “Goo Gone” and it worked instantly.
Artifact Electronics it’s kind of oily. You only need a few drops and let it dissolve the thermal paste for about a minute. When you wipe it off, it will come all off in one or two wipes. Not corrosive, but you have to clean it after with alcohol so it’s not oily anymore. I done this on several thermal paste burned into the heat sink and the cpu. Works great.
A couple of things. It has a DVD-ROM Drive rather than a CD-ROM so you were correct in the 1st instance. Secondly, that Motherboard I would suggest is a 1.6 which means it doesn't have the "Super Capacitor" for the clock. It also means it doesn't have a TSOP Chip so you would need to install a Modchip or just softmod the console (if that is what you wanted to do with it).
I no more trust in ESR70, so many time it can diagnose a bad capacitor. One thing I learned from experience is that if the read is higher than the nominal value so the cap have a high leakege current.
Original XBox was a Tank. CD drives though would go bad all the time. Got tired of working on them. Most xbox hard drives were 8gb. Still have a closet full of xboxes.
My 2004 xbox crapped out like this, but my 2001 xbox igot when I was 4 still runs perfectly... I did remove the clock capacitor because of the acid leaks they all have.
@@eloygameno379 I really want a Game Cube. I have a good Wii but the GC games look dark or muted on it. That, and I just want one. And they are 200 on up!
Previously I picked up a dozen original xboxes for $5 each because they don't want them. Not sure if have anything to do with the easy softmod for the Xboxes but their popularity have shot up like crazy. Sold most of my xboxes and still have 2 and planning to soft mod one of it just as a learning experience. Maybe you can create a video for it next?
The time keeper cap on the failed ones were a previous board version design. Those caps were a couple inches from the left controller port. The newer has a higher working voltage instead of just enough. One thing that bugs people is the dvd drive belt getting loose and making people think it's a gonner because it tries, but can't open. But boiling the belt and a light grease and maybe a small brush with belt conditioner will fix that problem. Even Laserdisc players suffered loose belts and people gave up on them too as I have seen.
Love the video! Had so much fun using my Xbox, especially once I chipped it with a Xecuter X3, put in a larger harddrive and, uhm, found a few more games but even more so as a network streamer using XBMC. A bunch of friends bought Xboxes and had me mod them, because of XBMC. Good times and now I want to plug it in and see if it still works!
Nice repair! It would have been nice for people who are tackling the same repair if you had shown some or all of the power supply testing. I knew about the original Xbox when it was first conceived by Microsoft because my employer was working with Microsoft at the time. I was completely convinced that it would be an utter failure because I did not think that Microsoft had the know-how to design, manufacture, market and sell a game box. I am still baffled that they succeeded.
They basically built a mid-level PC with a pretty good GPU. The HD didn't hurt things either. It is rumored that they were losing about $100 per box, but break even was at 6 games
on the v1.6 console you dont take the clock capacitor out because its the gold cap by the ide port on the motherboard. microsoft actually upgraded it from the factory
@@pgFrancisco the v1.6 is easy to tell, on any other revision other then 1.6 the other memory pads on the motherboard are there but empty. On the v1.6 there are no empty memory pads to expand the ram, plus v1.6 is the only one to have the gold clock capacitor by the ide port on the motherboard. There's a thread in the Xbox forums on how to tell them all apart
I never saw a schematic, so I don't know the function of those caps, but she's still running. The only interboard connection used was the ATX power supply plug, and those are pretty reliable.
ive replaced all known bad caps (and one more because it could have been) everything seems fine. I even reflowed the solder on the power plug and still 0 power. what else should i try?
I recently dug out my old xbox to see if it still worked but unfortunately it didnt. On boot Im getting an error 07. Took it apart and checked the Ide cable was still tight for the HDD and CD drive and they were fine. Checked the Capacitors which all semmed to be ok with no bulges or leaks. The inside of the console looks very good. Do you have any idea what the problem might be?
Try unplugging the ide cable from the everything and then plug back in. Just unplugging it and plugging back in can get the connections working again. But capacitors on these old consoles are getting to age where they are now dieing. My 2003 xbox will power on for 1 second then turn off, caps look fine. but i have a feeling they are not holding charge anymore, have ordered some new ones. hopefully they solve the problem.
you will increase the thermal heat and fry your chips with that much thermal paste i would love to know what your cpu and gpu temps were after you added that much thermal paste
mine is 2 yrs older and I have all the pieces, 4 controllers, 2 wireless with the plug for the main box, works great except for I can't get the tray to open. have over 100 games and would love to play it again. Never been opened up like this. i"m looking for a video to show how to fix that CD tray. Walla! found it in the next video, you got to love youtube.
Just to let everyone know. To properly test a capacitor. You must remove it from the circuit. Testing on the board does not yield accurate measurements. However, with the Xbox being old. You should just do a cap kit and be done.
To properly test a capacitor..you must KNOW your stuff. I test capacitors in circuit and I can ALWAYS tell if they're bad! Knowledge, experience, and appropriate test equipment are paramount! Pls try to avoid advising as gospel, when that advice may not be rock solid.
@@VA7ACG Testing in circuit is not the best option. It is a quick option and the reading you get from it is not accurate without doing the math. Also, a cap may test decent until it is heated or cooled. If someone is new and watching you test caps in circuit. They dont learn jack unless you show them the math. Of course you already know this. Your just commenting in half truths. Thank you for the feedback though. Its always nice when you hear someone view on things.
@@Labyrnthdom Dude, you don't know Jack. I'm an EE and have been in the industry for over 4 decades. You make black and white statements like a total amateur. That's the kind of person I can't stand on YT... trying to advise others who end up learning backwoods tech habits. And what math is it you would be referring to? FFT's??? Can you do them? You have no business telling me I'm "commenting in half truths" when your electronics literacy is far below par. Nuff said!
@@Labyrnthdom As well, I just checked out your "Part 4 Magic Chef Wine Cooler." It's clear you know little about electronics. Just a handyman hack who thinks he can tell an EE whats up!. Hell, you didn't even troubleshoot the SMPS in that video. You just used a tip from another person. Lesson 1 for you: NEVER replace a part with a used part from another board as a fix. This is exactly the kind of crappy modeling to others that I have a pet peeve about. Fine, do a video about your hacking... but don't try to lecture where you are clearly in the dark !
@@Labyrnthdom Well you seem to know a lot about erectile issues and sex offending. I suggest that your responses are consistent with someone of low self esteem. Unlucky for you I can look you up in the correctional system. I would now consider the likelihood that you will be spending your retirement funds on legal fee's, as you have committed criminal liable here. Screen shot taken!
I have an original Xbox, boots up and works fine, however the Green led ring doesn’t work at all. Any ideas on what to check / replace on that ?? The console took a small hit to the front many years ago.
I have a 1.0 and need to replace my CPU capacitors (I already removed my clock cap). What type of capacitors would you recommend? Aluminum, polymer, electrolytic, solid?
Nice video. Just wanna ask if there is a fix on the power board if it was plugged to a 220 volt outlet. What other problems will need to be addressed if that happens.
The US version is rated at 127V AC. 240V will damage the power supply for sure. The power supply module would have to be replaced, but even that is not a sure fix because high voltage may have reached the motherboard in which case the unit is done for.
I think this may be what is wrong with my console, however, I am not very techy and have questions /chuckle. Is there a way to contact you beyond leaving comments here?
Why don't you pose specific questions in a comment. The purpose here is for the viewer community to get involved, I am not able to address specific problems myself.
@Artifact Electronics , thanks for replying, sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. I've taken apart the console and posted a video over on my UA-cam channel so you can see what I'm asking - thought it would be best instead of trying to explain everything. ua-cam.com/video/8LlKBHPErlk/v-deo.html
"Better more than less" is a big mistake. You apply way too much thermal compound. Its purpose is to bridge the microscopic gaps between the processor and the heat sink, so heat transfer is not obstructed by tiny pockets of air. A thin layer of compound is plenty, too much is counterproductive.
I bought another one, I will repair soon and I have to jump the link that was cut near the chip. Guess what? The new Xbox I bought for 40$ 2 weeks ago has a Duo X2 chip and the pan shop didn't know - I got lucky after all
First! Informative dissection, Artie. My favorite videos on your channel are video game related. Especially the Arcade PCB diagnostic breakdowns. Keep 'em coming :0)
I still have my original X-Box still turns on but it seems the tray is stuck, i still have probably 50 to 75 good games to play. I would love to get it working again. Any thoughts on getting the tray to open again.
you can manually open the disk drive and just about remove the belt. clean it and put it back on it should be fine. just a little fiddley but no need to dismantle
That's not strictly true, too much is better than not enough, it's true that just enough is better than any more than that, but if you don't have enough for it to cover the entire die and fill any micro crevices in the substrate, you could end up with air pockets that are far worse that having too thick of past distribution.
@@artifactelectronics I replaced the power supply on it, it still does the same thing. I think it may have some trace corrosion somewhere Ill probably have to repair.
@@mdmyer Its a trace issue you will have to rebuild the necessary traces in order to keep that from happen. There are several tutorials on this online.
Were can i buy caps from ? my Xbox they look ok still however sooner later they need to replace them. I had my Xbox 13 years now. I didn't use it to much in past now I use it lot more seen's I softmod it
Liam Musgrove - I got the same problem. Dvd drive won’t read the games. I went on eBay to look for a drive but they are anywhere between 60 and 90 bucks. I saw a 14 dollar one but it’s only for the Xbox 360. I asked the seller if it would be compatible with the fat original Xbox, he said nope 😵. So it’s not really worth for me to buy a drive for 60 when I got the xbox for 20.
Hello I have an original Xbox my dad bought it in 2003 on my birthday its been years and i boot my xbox and everything seems fine but it hangs in between, by any chance if i can contact you and get your help.
Hello, help I have a classic xbox which of the video image with some horizontal lines that jump randomly are like a kind of interference, and probe with other video and audio cables but this interference is not removed, which smd component of the board do you suggest me review?
When I was younger I overheated it but idk how to fix it FYI. I still have it I left it on for like 3 days it just shows the Xbox screen then it won’t let me go any further.......HELP
I've replaced the bulging capacitors but the xbox still won't boot it just resets twice then does the flashing lights, i will test the other caps with a multimeter to see if there are any other bad ones. This is with a 1.2 xbox i have swapped the power supply from a working 1.2 and it still won't boot, the other xbox boots fine with this power supply.
Hello, nice to read you, If it's not the power supply and it resets 2 times with a game in it's probably your DVD player too, or your Bios that needs the latest update available with an internet cable, available from Microsoft for free obviously. There is good tutorial on UA-cam by connoisseurs of this console that was ahead of his time at his time! Me too the light flashes and tells me your game is unreadable while playing impeccable on the Xbox 360 because it is compatible, good luck for your repairs. Respects gameurdude0.
WEÏT Gg the xbox 360 has a better dvd drive that’s plain better at reading scratched discs so while it may read it, the disc may still be too scratched and unreadable to the original xbox(this is especially true if you have a thomson disc drive as they are particularly bad at reading scratches discs)
Yeah nah so one of mine when you hit the power button, you hear it power up, but there are no lights, (except for the occasion orange light) and it almost instantaneously shuts down again. If anyone knows the issue, or better yet, how to fix it, I would much appreciate it.
Which manufacture date is it? The most common issue with power is that there is trace corrosion caused by a leaking clock capicator. You'd have to open it up, clean up the damage and possibly solder it. There are tutorials on YT about trace corrosion repair.
He is talking about the Official and Monster versions. The Chinese ones do fine. There is less QC, but I have 2 Component Cables from China and a MOnster Component Cable. No degraded signal or loss of quality.
i bought 2 consoles for 30 dollars in sweden. And i also got a old xbox disc-case with some recipies from 2004, how awesome is that? one of the consoles stopped turning on after a few months, it was also modded when i got it :( question: can i put the modded hardrive into the other xbox that is working?
My original Xbox won’t let me play any games no more. It started glitching my game when I was playing and I know Fs my game wasn’t scratched or dirty so then I thought it could be the time cap leaking so I open it up and I saw it had a leak so I removed it and I tried cleaning it with 50% alcohol, put it back together. Started it up and it won’t read a game. Right now I just cleaned it again this time I’m using 75% isopropyl alcohol and it loads the game but it won’t let me play it, it’ll bring up that the game is dirty or damaged. I need HELP!!!
The time cap has nothing to do with the game reading though it is good that you removed it and cleaned the leak. The problem might be the optical drive it probably needs a cleaning especially the glass lense don’t just blow air in it though you’ll just blow dust everywhere. There are other UA-cam videos that show you how to do this.
OMG Donald Sutherland repairs the original XBox :)
LOL
It worked! I replaced the 5 bulging caps and also replaced the heat sink gel. Works like new now. Thanks for sharing my friend!
My father got it for me in 2010,then i played for two years,one day my game crashed and i couldnt play anymore,and now,in 2022 i found it and it still works!! Like bro im so happy 😁
Don't remove your clock cap, you have a 1.6 revision and they don't need to be removed but if you do it won't boot
So it doesn’t work if it doesn’t have it cause I removed it cause I don’t want it to leak nor damage my Xbox
Great reminder on replacing the CPU and GPU thermal paste. And thank you for sharing your tricks in cleaning and reapplying this.
Excellent video. You made me realise avenues of repair that I had previously thought were possible! This inspires me to buy a soldering kit and multimeter and attempt some of these repairs myself, rather than to keep buying Xboxes for spare parts as I have been. Thank you
I'm glad to hear that you got some inspiration from the video. Every piece of equipment saved from the landfill is a big plus.
Oh have I got a tale to tell. Goodwill outlet store. Everyone ignored the Xbox. Scored it for $5. Worked fine (ish). Needed a cleaning (worked good as stock afterwards, and provided a great excuse to modchip it).
@Artifact Electronics the Xbox in question is a revision 1.6, recognizable by the Gold clock capacitor next to the motherboard IDE connector and the Xcalibur video chip behind the GPU when viewing from the front of the console, the hard drive is 10GB in capacity, and the Philips optical drive is a DVD drive and not a CD drive.
I would also suggest that questions by other UA-cam users about problems with their original Xboxes would best be directed to the OriginalXbox Reddit after first reading the information located beyond the links provided in the sidebar so they can best word their questions and avoid redundant topics.
Thank you sir,
I am French, but thanks to your impeccable speech I learned a lot.
I have two Xbox first generation like yours but for Europe. I have to change the DVD player on one or the optical laser head and because of its old age replace its thermal paste will do him the greatest good.
You are a good teacher, congratulations and thank you for sharing your knowledge very helpful.Sorry for my English.Good continuation.
lol, when you realize that the xbox is being hooked up to a sony tv.
but seriously great video. My original xbox has died for some reason, so this helps me understand what might be wrong. Thanks!
just realized that i did the same the whole time mine worked back in the day lol
I am surprised to see how dirty the inside is. Mine is from 2003 and I have opened it for the first time 15 years after purchasing and it was like super cleam, almost. I love my original Xbox, still playing with it my old games.
your console is a v1.6. its an easy catch to figure out. the v1.6 motherboards didnt have the spare open pads for more ram, and the clock capacitor was moved to by the ide port and is gold in color. if you have a v1.6 console its both a blessing and a curse. a blessing in the newer capacitor the gold one they used never seems to bulge and blow, however they removed the extra ram pads on the board and killed the ability to easily add a mod chip by messing up the lpc area on the motherboard. lots of people were modchipping these and installing bigger drives and even installing sata hard drives, plus with a softmod you can easily rip games to the hard drive and then play the games directly from the hard drive. i have a zombie ghost xbox as i like to call it. i got it out of a game store in fully functional condition, but opened it and found it to be a v1.6 console. i eventually softmodded it and had it running unleash xbox, then tried to rebuild the lpc on the motherboard to add an aladdin xt mod chip to it and ruined the board. i bought a v1.4 motherboard with a custom bios and upgraded ram to 128mb and the seller unlocked my 1tb hd that i had locked to the motherboard using chimp to transfer data over. the seller also cleaned up the board quite a bit. it works great and has no issues and the extra ram makes it load up quick, plus i have a bunch of games ripped to it and have roms and emulators on it. its in a clear ghost case and i have led lights in it too, along with a bigger cooling fan to keep it cool.
You should make a video of your xbox. How did you ruin your motherboard?
@@patrolzero1 I was trying to add the mod chip and think I grounded it out onto the metal on the bottom inside of the case
I haven't had any problem with recuilding the LPC header, takes like 10 minutes if just using wires, but I like those pcb's that just set on & solder in to do the rebuild fast & neat
I realize im late to this, but the clock capacitor needs to be removed ASAP from any mobo revision other than v1.6. The xbox can work perfectly without it (other than v1.6 which has a good cap anyways). Those capacitors specifically have a 99% track record for failing, so it will aways leak eventually. A replacement is not necessary, but you can replace it with a higher capacity so the clock will keep time for days instead of hours while unplugged.
I will tell you a secret. The clock cap in those early boards had a voltage rating that was to low to safely handle the real in circuit voltage with enough tolerance. It took a while for them to fail, but it was worse because of that wrong part selection. It should have been 6 to 12 volts. I agree the 1.6 has a better rated cap.
I didn't see the spare ram soldering pads on this box, so I think it's a 1.6.
@@popcatzoo It is a 1.6. The heat sinq tie downs and the chips are prof of that.
Capacitors 101: there is a rating on every cap (+/- 10%). That literally means that's the tolerance for a bad cap. If the rating is 3300uf then 330uf in either direction means bad cap. Both you measured were bad. Odds are every cap on that board is on its way out. They should all be replaced.
And that was so much thermal paste it made me cringe. Less it's more as long it covers the whole die.
@@beard-monster Sorry, can you explain what you mean further?
You've got a 1.6 board min, that super cap is fine they finally fixed it in that version, hence it being in a different spot next to the IDE cable
Great Video! Thanks for sharing! BtW... "OL" on your meter isn't "overload", it's "Open Line". Just a little FYI,
My son asked me if I can replace the capacitors in his Xbox. Now I know which ones to look for.
Your capacitor is fine because is an update of the previous models, if you remove the capacitor and you don't replace it, the Xbox won't turn on.
Mine has T20 screws on the bottom and T10 on the inside. Ver. 1 was an 8Gb hard drive and later versions used 10 Gb drives, Oh and that's a DVD not a CD rom drive. There should be 11 screws on the motherboard not 10.
I changed the thermal paste a while ago and the old one didn’t came out so easily. I tried alcohol and acetone but neither worked for me. So I put some “Goo Gone” and it worked instantly.
I've never tried Goo Gone on thermal paste, great tip.
Artifact Electronics it’s kind of oily. You only need a few drops and let it dissolve the thermal paste for about a minute. When you wipe it off, it will come all off in one or two wipes. Not corrosive, but you have to clean it after with alcohol so it’s not oily anymore. I done this on several thermal paste burned into the heat sink and the cpu. Works great.
A couple of things. It has a DVD-ROM Drive rather than a CD-ROM so you were correct in the 1st instance. Secondly, that Motherboard I would suggest is a 1.6 which means it doesn't have the "Super Capacitor" for the clock. It also means it doesn't have a TSOP Chip so you would need to install a Modchip or just softmod the console (if that is what you wanted to do with it).
I no more trust in ESR70, so many time it can diagnose a bad capacitor. One thing I learned from experience is that if the read is higher than the nominal value so the cap have a high leakege current.
The display of the Xbox startup screen comes up straight away when your turn the console on!
Original XBox was a Tank. CD drives though would go bad all the time. Got tired of working on them. Most xbox hard drives were 8gb. Still have a closet full of xboxes.
My 2004 xbox crapped out like this, but my 2001 xbox igot when I was 4 still runs perfectly... I did remove the clock capacitor because of the acid leaks they all have.
I love my Xbox. I recently paid 100.00 for mine. So these systems are going up in price.
no shit got mine in 2014 for 80$ along with a game cube and a bunch of games I decided to get a new one today and they are 200 bucks!
@@eloygameno379 I really want a Game Cube. I have a good Wii but the GC games look dark or muted on it. That, and I just want one. And they are 200 on up!
@@patkelley8293 Haven't used my GC since I bought it I'm going to see if it's working.
Previously I picked up a dozen original xboxes for $5 each because they don't want them. Not sure if have anything to do with the easy softmod for the Xboxes but their popularity have shot up like crazy. Sold most of my xboxes and still have 2 and planning to soft mod one of it just as a learning experience. Maybe you can create a video for it next?
The time keeper cap on the failed ones were a previous board version design. Those caps were a couple inches from the left controller port. The newer has a higher working voltage instead of just enough. One thing that bugs people is the dvd drive belt getting loose and making people think it's a gonner because it tries, but can't open. But boiling the belt and a light grease and maybe a small brush with belt conditioner will fix that problem. Even Laserdisc players suffered loose belts and people gave up on them too as I have seen.
Why not just replace the belt? I've replaced quite a few of them.
Love the video! Had so much fun using my Xbox, especially once I chipped it with a Xecuter X3, put in a larger harddrive and, uhm, found a few more games but even more so as a network streamer using XBMC. A bunch of friends bought Xboxes and had me mod them, because of XBMC. Good times and now I want to plug it in and see if it still works!
Dude sounds like Arte from Webkinz. If you know you know.
nice video little tip magnetise your screwdriver so that it just lifts up the screws for you
Nice repair! It would have been nice for people who are tackling the same repair if you had shown some or all of the power supply testing.
I knew about the original Xbox when it was first conceived by Microsoft because my employer was working with Microsoft at the time. I was completely convinced that it would be an utter failure because I did not think that Microsoft had the know-how to design, manufacture, market and sell a game box. I am still baffled that they succeeded.
They basically built a mid-level PC with a pretty good GPU. The HD didn't hurt things either. It is rumored that they were losing about $100 per box, but break even was at 6 games
first ever console and want to play my system again someday.
on the v1.6 console you dont take the clock capacitor out because its the gold cap by the ide port on the motherboard. microsoft actually upgraded it from the factory
How do you know what version your Xbox is?
@@pgFrancisco the v1.6 is easy to tell, on any other revision other then 1.6 the other memory pads on the motherboard are there but empty. On the v1.6 there are no empty memory pads to expand the ram, plus v1.6 is the only one to have the gold clock capacitor by the ide port on the motherboard. There's a thread in the Xbox forums on how to tell them all apart
I really liked this video and I think you did a great job.
Love your video, very informative
Winner! So it was just the caps? And probably re-seating the cables helped as well? Nice video, thanks. Peter
I never saw a schematic, so I don't know the function of those caps, but she's still running. The only interboard connection used was the ATX power supply plug, and those are pretty reliable.
ive replaced all known bad caps (and one more because it could have been) everything seems fine. I even reflowed the solder on the power plug and still 0 power. what else should i try?
Swap out the power supply and check traces on the bottom of the motherboard that leads to the power button.
I recently dug out my old xbox to see if it still worked but unfortunately it didnt. On boot Im getting an error 07. Took it apart and checked the Ide cable was still tight for the HDD and CD drive and they were fine. Checked the Capacitors which all semmed to be ok with no bulges or leaks. The inside of the console looks very good.
Do you have any idea what the problem might be?
HDD timeout or can't access the DVD drive
Try unplugging the ide cable from the everything and then plug back in. Just unplugging it and plugging back in can get the connections working again. But capacitors on these old consoles are getting to age where they are now dieing. My 2003 xbox will power on for 1 second then turn off, caps look fine. but i have a feeling they are not holding charge anymore, have ordered some new ones. hopefully they solve the problem.
Amazing XBOX classic ❤
you will increase the thermal heat and fry your chips with that much thermal paste
i would love to know what your cpu and gpu temps were after you added that much thermal paste
mine is 2 yrs older and I have all the pieces, 4 controllers, 2 wireless with the plug for the main box, works great except for I can't get the tray to open. have over 100 games and would love to play it again. Never been opened up like this. i"m looking for a video to show how to fix that CD tray. Walla! found it in the next video, you got to love youtube.
same
Mines 5yrs older haha catch up
jk but fr tho it is
Did this xbox frag before you replaced the caps?
Just to let everyone know. To properly test a capacitor. You must remove it from the circuit. Testing on the board does not yield accurate measurements. However, with the Xbox being old. You should just do a cap kit and be done.
To properly test a capacitor..you must KNOW your stuff. I test capacitors in circuit and I can ALWAYS tell if they're bad! Knowledge, experience, and appropriate test equipment are paramount! Pls try to avoid advising as gospel, when that advice may not be rock solid.
@@VA7ACG Testing in circuit is not the best option. It is a quick option and the reading you get from it is not accurate without doing the math. Also, a cap may test decent until it is heated or cooled. If someone is new and watching you test caps in circuit. They dont learn jack unless you show them the math. Of course you already know this. Your just commenting in half truths. Thank you for the feedback though. Its always nice when you hear someone view on things.
@@Labyrnthdom Dude, you don't know Jack. I'm an EE and have been in the industry for over 4 decades. You make black and white statements like a total amateur. That's the kind of person I can't stand on YT... trying to advise others who end up learning backwoods tech habits. And what math is it you would be referring to? FFT's??? Can you do them? You have no business telling me I'm "commenting in half truths" when your electronics literacy is far below par. Nuff said!
@@Labyrnthdom As well, I just checked out your "Part 4 Magic Chef Wine Cooler." It's clear you know little about electronics. Just a handyman hack who thinks he can tell an EE whats up!. Hell, you didn't even troubleshoot the SMPS in that video. You just used a tip from another person. Lesson 1 for you: NEVER replace a part with a used part from another board as a fix. This is exactly the kind of crappy modeling to others that I have a pet peeve about. Fine, do a video about your hacking... but don't try to lecture where you are clearly in the dark !
@@Labyrnthdom Well you seem to know a lot about erectile issues and sex offending. I suggest that your responses are consistent with someone of low self esteem. Unlucky for you I can look you up in the correctional system. I would now consider the likelihood that you will be spending your retirement funds on legal fee's, as you have committed criminal liable here. Screen shot taken!
I have an original Xbox, boots up and works fine, however the Green led ring doesn’t work at all. Any ideas on what to check / replace on that ?? The console took a small hit to the front many years ago.
Check power supply voltages. You may have a cracked pcb.
I have a 1.0 and need to replace my CPU capacitors (I already removed my clock cap).
What type of capacitors would you recommend? Aluminum, polymer, electrolytic, solid?
How did it go?
@@John-vt3gt No one ever responded. I just used solid caps.
great video! super helpful
Do you know how to pull composite video out of it without the av cable. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron
You can look up the pinouts, but getting the proper connector might be difficult. You're better off getting an AV cable, they are plentiful.
HOW DO I CONTACT YOU PERSONALLY TO FIND THE REPLACEMENT PARTS THAT YOU USED IN THIS VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!
What would the measurements read on the fuse to the power supply if it were dead? Sorry if that’s a dumb question but I have no experience in this.
A functional fuse is just a dead short. You want to make sure that the fuse is functional by measuring continuity while there is no power.
FYI the scews for the outer bottom of the case are T-20. The the screws for the CD and hardive brackets are T-10.
Nice video. Just wanna ask if there is a fix on the power board if it was plugged to a 220 volt outlet. What other problems will need to be addressed if that happens.
The US version is rated at 127V AC. 240V will damage the power supply for sure. The power supply module would have to be replaced, but even that is not a sure fix because high voltage may have reached the motherboard in which case the unit is done for.
I think this may be what is wrong with my console, however, I am not very techy and have questions /chuckle. Is there a way to contact you beyond leaving comments here?
Why don't you pose specific questions in a comment. The purpose here is for the viewer community to get involved, I am not able to address specific problems myself.
@Artifact Electronics , thanks for replying, sorry it's taken so long to get back to you.
I've taken apart the console and posted a video over on my UA-cam channel so you can see what I'm asking - thought it would be best instead of trying to explain everything.
ua-cam.com/video/8LlKBHPErlk/v-deo.html
I meant the DVD drive door did not always go in but most times it got stuck and would not come out. That's why the game was still in the drive.
The o g original Microsoft Xbox
"Better more than less" is a big mistake. You apply way too much thermal compound. Its purpose is to bridge the microscopic gaps between the processor and the heat sink, so heat transfer is not obstructed by tiny pockets of air. A thin layer of compound is plenty, too much is counterproductive.
My xbox has a red light when pressing the power button and doesnt turn on HELP
May have a possible system fault (internally)
Could be repairable or not I wouldn't like to say
@@davekirk2291 the thing is it was working like 3 minutes before that
I don't really know then sorry
@@neckashi6919 okay thanks for the advice man
1st shutdown - 25 minutes
2nd shut down - 5 minutes
Problem might be? I've replaced the GPU and CPU thermal paste
And boot without press power button?That may be there are some corrosion under the time capacity routing circuit.
I bought another one, I will repair soon and I have to jump the link that was cut near the chip.
Guess what? The new Xbox I bought for 40$ 2 weeks ago has a Duo X2 chip and the pan shop didn't know - I got lucky after all
@@doctorclaw8232 did you fix it?
I accidentally pulled the gpu off the board....it was welded to the heatsink :( How difficult is the repair?
@@NightyWolf007 It's destroyed. I will use it for parts.
First!
Informative dissection, Artie. My favorite videos on your channel are video game related. Especially the Arcade PCB diagnostic breakdowns. Keep 'em coming :0)
I still have my original X-Box still turns on but it seems the tray is stuck, i still have probably 50 to 75 good games to play. I would love to get it working again. Any thoughts on getting the tray to open again.
You would have to open her up, remove the drive and manually release the disc tray. A new belt would probably fix your problem.
@@artifactelectronics where could I get a belt if I need one. No place around here sale's parts for old systems
you can manually open the disk drive and just about remove the belt. clean it and put it back on it should be fine. just a little fiddley but no need to dismantle
@@johnbarker8239 you can find the DVD-ROM belts on eBay or elsewhere on the web. If all else fails, boil the belt in water for a few minutes.
It quite amazing how many people make the mistake of assuming that "more is better" When it comes to thermal paste, LESS is always better.
That's not strictly true, too much is better than not enough, it's true that just enough is better than any more than that, but if you don't have enough for it to cover the entire die and fill any micro crevices in the substrate, you could end up with air pockets that are far worse that having too thick of past distribution.
The Xbox must have a monitor or TV connected to it or it will not turn on!
No I have one and it turns on without me connecting it to the tv it just won’t display anything
Nonsense, the Xbox will flash green and orange if there's no video output:
www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutorials-163.html#xboxerrorcodes4
Great job sir!
My OG X-box either wont power on, or powers itself on if I leave it plugged in. Capacitor problem?
*Ghosts, nigga.*
Power supply caps maybe?
@@artifactelectronics I replaced the power supply on it, it still does the same thing. I think it may have some trace corrosion somewhere Ill probably have to repair.
@@mdmyer Its a trace issue you will have to rebuild the necessary traces in order to keep that from happen. There are several tutorials on this online.
Does it affect it if you remove the time cap???
19:10
Artifact Electronics: Oh No you Didn't Just Give Me An Error Code 7
XBOX:Oh yes i did
I had the exact same caps bulging in my xbox
Were can i buy caps from ? my Xbox they look ok still however sooner later they need to replace them. I had my Xbox 13 years now. I didn't use it to much in past now I use it lot more seen's I softmod it
Thank you for making this vedio
Awesome video mate! I just got mine in the post and it’s not reading any of my discs 😩 I’ve taken it apart and cleaned everything.
My guess is that the DVD laser may be spent.
@@artifactelectronics I’m thinking you may be right. Chucked them into the Xbox 360 and ran with no troubles.
Hello i have problem with my xbox, read dvd but don t read original games. Its original not pirated. You know what can happen? Thanks
Maybe your laser lens need cleaned. If that does not work, try replacing the DVD drive.
@@liammusgrove6334 thanks yes i search for changing
Marcel Hernàndez XBOX DVD drives are cheap these days.
Have fun repairing, happy gaming!
@@liammusgrove6334 thanks
Liam Musgrove - I got the same problem. Dvd drive won’t read the games. I went on eBay to look for a drive but they are anywhere between 60 and 90 bucks. I saw a 14 dollar one but it’s only for the Xbox 360. I asked the seller if it would be compatible with the fat original Xbox, he said nope 😵. So it’s not really worth for me to buy a drive for 60 when I got the xbox for 20.
this is a 1.6 gold cap dont take out
How do you know what version it is?
If I send you my Xbox would you fix it for me? For a Price of course
I currently don't do outside repairs.
Can I need to replace mine as well... Can anyone point me in the direction of what and where to order replacement capacitors?
go to console5.com
Lol the termal paste looks like suncream
1 ohm ESR is terrible for a cap like that.. you want .05 at most.
It's alive!!!!!!
Hello I have an original Xbox my dad bought it in 2003 on my birthday its been years and i boot my xbox and everything seems fine but it hangs in between, by any chance if i can contact you and get your help.
Good show. Thanks!
I picked up one recently where it tries to boot up three times then flashes red. It doesn't even display anything to the screen.
It's a FRAG. Has it been opened before? If not it's either the CPU ram or Southbridge is bad
@@LeeZhiWei8219 No, it has not been opened before. It actually worked very briefly before I had the issue.
@@Vriappiopoi I have the same problem my xbox try to boot, on the third attempt it starts to flashing green and red lights.
@@LeeZhiWei8219 I have the same problem, but sometimes it works good my xbox
help...
Hello, help I have a classic xbox which of the video image with some horizontal lines that jump randomly are like a kind of interference, and probe with other video and audio cables but this interference is not removed, which smd component of the board do you suggest me review?
Could be the GPU heating up. Try replacing the thermal transfer paste.
@@artifactelectronics
Hi, replace the thermal paste. But the console still has the same fault, what else can I do?
When I was younger I overheated it but idk how to fix it FYI. I still have it I left it on for like 3 days it just shows the Xbox screen then it won’t let me go any further.......HELP
mines turns on but wont turn off
love the watch. I think it Rolex haha.
I've replaced the bulging capacitors but the xbox still won't boot it just resets twice then does the flashing lights, i will test the other caps with a multimeter to see if there are any other bad ones. This is with a 1.2 xbox i have swapped the power supply from a working 1.2 and it still won't boot, the other xbox boots fine with this power supply.
Hello, nice to read you,
If it's not the power supply and it resets 2 times with a game in it's probably your DVD player too, or your Bios that needs the latest update available with an internet cable, available from Microsoft for free obviously.
There is good tutorial on UA-cam by connoisseurs of this console that was ahead of his time at his time! Me too the light flashes and tells me your game is unreadable while playing impeccable on the Xbox 360 because it is compatible, good luck for your repairs. Respects gameurdude0.
Just so you know. You don't test caps in the board. You have to disconnect one leg and test them.
WEÏT Gg the xbox 360 has a better dvd drive that’s plain better at reading scratched discs so while it may read it, the disc may still be too scratched and unreadable to the original xbox(this is especially true if you have a thomson disc drive as they are particularly bad at reading scratches discs)
the 1.6 xbox you have doesnt have a faulty clock cap because there is not clock cap
its at the left rear of the board and it's a Gold Cap. They aren't prone to leaking like the old ones
Nice original xbox
So what was the problem!!!?
A dead power supply. Since PS parts are hard to come by it made more sense to replace the entire PS
What tv is that?
Yeah nah so one of mine when you hit the power button, you hear it power up, but there are no lights, (except for the occasion orange light) and it almost instantaneously shuts down again. If anyone knows the issue, or better yet, how to fix it, I would much appreciate it.
Connor Pittam same here mine does that too
Which manufacture date is it? The most common issue with power is that there is trace corrosion caused by a leaking clock capicator. You'd have to open it up, clean up the damage and possibly solder it. There are tutorials on YT about trace corrosion repair.
Same with me red orange blinking issue 2002 model
The 1K👍
19:27 it's called a FRAG(Flashing Red And Green) . Not the Red Ring Of Death. Both are totally different things.
I tryed cleaning my laser dident work, so im going to replace the disk drive from another xbox
my xbox flashing red and orange? and No signal on Tv
Sounds like a bad AV cable.
@@artifactelectronics i used the same cable on another xobx its work fine, they said its FRAG?
good luck man
Al ver los capacitores inflados lo primero en checar, según yo, sería el voltaje de stand by de la fuente y ver si nó está excedido. Salu2
18:38 it`s a dvd drive 3 times now....
Your video is absolutely beautiful; how can I talk with you?
Hey I know this was 4 years ago but do you still fixed xbox
0:34 are you sure about that? You can pick up some component cables that not only produce better image quality, but are cheap on sites like eBay.
He is talking about the Official and Monster versions. The Chinese ones do fine. There is less QC, but I have 2 Component Cables from China and a MOnster Component Cable. No degraded signal or loss of quality.
i bought 2 consoles for 30 dollars in sweden. And i also got a old xbox disc-case with some recipies from 2004, how awesome is that? one of the consoles stopped turning on after a few months, it was also modded when i got it :(
question: can i put the modded hardrive into the other xbox that is working?
You'll need to use software tools to unlock the HD and change the serial # to match the new Xbox. There are many references available online.
My original Xbox won’t let me play any games no more. It started glitching my game when I was playing and I know Fs my game wasn’t scratched or dirty so then I thought it could be the time cap leaking so I open it up and I saw it had a leak so I removed it and I tried cleaning it with 50% alcohol, put it back together. Started it up and it won’t read a game. Right now I just cleaned it again this time I’m using 75% isopropyl alcohol and it loads the game but it won’t let me play it, it’ll bring up that the game is dirty or damaged. I need HELP!!!
The time cap has nothing to do with the game reading though it is good that you removed it and cleaned the leak. The problem might be the optical drive it probably needs a cleaning especially the glass lense don’t just blow air in it though you’ll just blow dust everywhere. There are other UA-cam videos that show you how to do this.