I've cut some threads manually by inserting the chuck key in the spindle and using it to rotate the work, but I've never seen a manual crank operation done like this on a motorized lathe. Neat.
I have a Myford lathe and a crank handle is a standard accessory. I regularly use mine when cutting threads, particularly when cutting in towards a shoulder. Powering into that position is way too risky.
@@caroleast9636 I know the feeling. I normally cut enough relief to get away with it on some jobs, but I have to stay on the controls - and the pucker factor is always high when using power. Otherwise I switch to manual operation. If the shoulder is too high, I use a die and manually operate it over the last half inch. A neat trick I learned a few years ago from another video was to invert the threading tool and run the operation from the rear, forward. It seems almost counterintuitive but it works.
7 minutes in and I'm learning so much from you! Glad I clicked on this and can't wait to learn more. I already know I must get a caliper clock, I need to turn an obsolete awesome set of bike cranks I have- now into machinery crank levers of sorts! And it's inspiring to be reminded of the joy of making threads that don't have to conform to any standards.
This is very safe to avoid crashes and not break tools. I like your idea. Besides making nice threads, you get a little exercise. Thank you for this demonstration.
Thanks for posting this Steve. My threading tools and 10 spare inserts arrived yesterday, I bought the same set as yours from BG. I finally ran down the Zeus booklet and now the mystery of internal and external diameters for threading is solved, B.T.W I have also made the expanding mandrel modeled on yours for my mini lathe. Thank you so much for taking the time to do your postings they are much appreciated. Rob - from South Africa
Hi Rob. Thanks for your feedback. Great that you made the mandrel for your lathe. I have had a Zeus book all my life even though one can find the info online it is something I always refer to. I am really pleased with my Mini Lathe and have used it to make so many precision parts. Hope you do well and have a great time using yours. I hope to show some more machining videos soon. Best Regards Steve
Hello Steve your idea about the chip shield worked perfectly I used m5 threaded rod cut them to about 4 inches and slipped on the aluminmum tubing 5 id 1o od . I used 5 m wing nuts to secure . the beauty is the rods and the tubiing support the chip shield . Awesome Idea Thank you
As follows the method I learned as an apprentice toolmaker and as shown on the Colchester Lathes training film. Set the top slide over to half the thread angle and set the cut depth using the top slide. Grind the tool with half the thread angle. Set the cross slide at 0 with the tool just touching the job. Move the tool away from the job using the cross slide. Wind the carriage back to clear the job, put the cut on using the top slide and return the cross slide to 0, engage the nut at the appropriate number.
Agreat job and explanation, and the best thing is providing the links. I can't thank you enough. I pray to Allah that He bless you and grant you good health. Thanks a million.
Thank you SO much for this invaluable tutorial Steve,my next turned project can now be multi-part without living in terror of the lathe!Brilliant,much obliged sir.🏆
Excellent, thank you. I have never attempted screw cutting in the lathe, always been nervous about it but your technique seems very simple and straightforward. Given me confidence to give it a try. 👍
I've done this method quite a lot over the years - for some reason I often used a 26 TPI pitch whatever the dia. I too use a spindle handle a lot for screw cutting. Like those clock calipers. You have a great collection of measuring gear.
Hi Chris, I really like this method the best now. I just do not have the quick reactions I had when I was younger. I have managed to get the calipers etc for really good low prices on Ebay lately. I look out for stuff on there that is listed to end at odd times, when other people tend to forget when to bid.....like when there is a important football match on the TV....:)
Finally got round to cutting my thread, using this method I managed to cut a fine thread in brass with excellent results, hand winding takes all the stress out of it. Thanks For the tip.
Thank you, this will be a great method for me. Not only am I a novice, but I also have a standard change-gear lathe, so there's no lovely gearbox levers to adjust on it. Changing gears really isn't that difficult, but it does take time adjusting backlash...not to mention the research I have to do to make sure I have the right gears in the right places :)
+Knolltop Farms Hi Thanks for watching. I do not have a gearbox either and it does take up some time. I only change the gearing though if I am cutting standard size threads. If I cut non standard I tend to leave the gearing set for 19 tpi like in the video. I may do a video on the gear changing on my lathe sometime....it took me some time to figure it out!!
Great job of threading. The Myford lathe has some nice features. The threading handle is a great tool and I like the flat cross slide with all of the "T" slots. That would be a good feature on any lathe.
I tried your method today . I wanted yo cut an internsl thread on new crankcase I am making for a small diesel engine. The thread needed was 32 tpi. Getting the gears right on my very old Myford lathe , I think its an early lm 2 , was the hardest part. I couldn't fit a handle soused the large pulley wheel and turned the thread quite easily. Thanks again for the video.
Awesome idea, I have a large 15" lathe but will try the crank. Dont know at 83 if i will be able to reach the handle and have enough strength to crank it. I will give it a try...
Most interesting & useful & crash free which suits me greatly given I once crashed my ml7 & broke the half nut making me very wary of power feed. Also very interesting how you move back in time to before Mr. Whitworth when there were many thread sizes & make what suits your job. Makes sense as I often struggle to make things to be a standard size when often there is no real need. Nice thread cutting tooling too. Thanks for sharing.
Another well explained video Steve, I use my winding handle on my lathe for threadcutting too, another reason I clear the tool on the return stroke is if there's a slight amount of backlash between the leadscrew & the half nuts the tool will bind on the work & make a wider cut than needed,I've oddtimes "forgotten" to remove the handle after finishing & turning another job & the lathe gives an unpleasant shake!!! he he.
I really enjoy your videos Steve! The indepth explanation you provide in your all your projects are superior and very rare to see for these types of videos. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise, uncomplicated methods for the deferent type of machining practises. It really helps a great deal for hobbist like myself. Thanks
I cut left hand threads on the mini lathe by reversing the lead screw rotation on the back of the mini lathe and use your hand crank design. works real good!
Thank you! You are the only person on youtube that fully explained threading. I had a question specifically about bore sizes, i need a chart. Thankfully your videos are here.
Hi Steve great video. The more I watch the more I learn from you. I also made a crank handle for my South Ben once I seen yours. Use it mostly with my tap and die set. And yes as a beginner I am terrified of crashing the tool trying to cut threads with the lathe but not now got a new way of learning it. And also I was able to make a indexing plate after talking to you out of a sprocket I found at my local farm store. Just had to bore the center out to fit the back of my chuck and bolted it onto the back .It has 30 positions not 24 could not find one 6 inches in that count. Works great. Keep up the videos.
Hi Sharon....That's great. I never thought of using a sprocket, what a great idea! I use my lathe handle a lot for all threading. Also it is great to use if you have a chuck that screws onto the spindle. I hold the chuck with one hand while using the handle, with the other, which makes it much easier and safer to do. The only thing I have to be really careful of is when I am working quick, or get distracted, is to remove the handle after use. I have actually started the lathe with it in the spindle by mistake!! I have recently made a couple of new handles and I have found a nice small red LED warning light that will fit easily on any handle. This is another safety measure I use to stop this happening again.....I hope to show this in an update video soon. Regards Steve
I watch a lot of your videos and really appreciate the depth and the thought you put into them. I have a 1942 model f atlas and do a lot of work and use a lot of your ideas. thanks a bunch
brilliant and thankyou for this, im not scared to do this anymore and actually cant wait to try!! awesome spindel mandrel idea as i have a ml7 too, game changer video for me this is thankyou steve !!
Thanks Steve that was great tip. I knew about not Gorey and with getting the exact right gears, but I had never thought of that cutting it manually with my spindle handle
Hi Fred, Thanks. It is particularly good for very fine threads with a short run depth. Like the components you get on optical equipment plus other similar items where it is almost impossible to use conventional threading methods. I do use this method for any threads I have to do now though. Regards Steve
This is one of the best home workshop videos I have seen, so I have subscribed! I'm interested in buying my own small lathe so any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Hello - that looks quite easy. Not sure but I've seen other machinists angle the compound to match the thread angle and then feed in on that rather than the cross-slide. I think the theory is that it just cuts on one side of the tool then.
The problem with lathe and mill etc work is standardisation, all thread every hole must be made, so everybody can reproduce holes a tread and other machining work. I am glad that at least one person who steps from the standardisation ladder and just produced what HÉ likes, thank you!
Hi Steve. I have just made a hand crank and indexing hub, as per your earlier vid, many thanks for making it so clear and simple. In this video, you are turning a metric 24mm thread, and I am keen to try it for myself. My mini lathe ( almost certainly similar to yours) only has change gears for up to a 2mm pitch, but 24 mm calls for a 3mm pitch. As an inexperienced machinist (me) that is, does it really matter what pitch I set? Or should I just set the maximum I can and just use the correct 60 deg indexable tool? I’m not cutting to match another internal thread, just something else I will also cut. So I’m guessing that to a certain degree anyway, pitch will not matter.
Steve I must say that you are a fantastic teacher mate I have learnt so much from watching your instructions mate . Can I use the the lead screw to achieve the same results
Very good demonstration on threading. Really like the technique of hand powered threading. I am thinking you forgot to add the tool holder and insert numbers. If you could still do that it would be much appreciated. Thank you for your effort doing these videos.
Hi Glenn, Many thanks for watching....I have just included the tool numbers and insert types in a comment above. I will do this where applicable, on other videos, within a day or two of uploading. My Regards Steve
Hi Steve, great video, have see you use it before but great to have it explained. I also have an ml7 built in about '65 in really good condition, was wondering if you would consider doing a video walk through of your lathe and its modifications and use of the Myford lathe, back gear etc. there doesn't seem to be much on Utube on the basic operations of these lathes. Once again thanks for the work you put into your videos. Cheers from Australia Raymond
Hi Raymond, Thanks for watching. Yes I will try and get round to that sometime. My lathe was made in 1936. My brother did a lot of restoration work on it and I put new counter-shaft bearings, a new spindle mandrel and bearings and a new motor plus several other bits. Also I changed the motor pulley for a larger one (as stated in the ML7 handbook), giving it better speeds. Regards Steve
Brilliant, never seen anyone post such an easy way to make (in my case fine pitch camera filter threads) on short homemade adapters for telescope and lens fittings, some with only 3 to 5 mm long work pieces. The conventional way is very tricky to say the least! Thanks for sharing, I have joined your channel. Used have an Myford Super 7 back in the 1960's before I emigrated to Tasmania 😃 land of sunshine and clear skies for astronomy.😁
Hi Shevill, Thanks for subscribing. Yes it makes everything a whole lot easier for threading. It should be excellent for doing those fine short threads you have to cut. I actually use this method all every time I do the screw-cutting now. It has made thread cutting so easy and I haven't had one failure since using it. I do actually think that it was used as a method a lot more throughout history than we realise. I have spoken to other engineers that cut the threads like this. Sounds great in Tasmania and the astronomy must be so interesting, having the clear skies!! Regards Steve
I'd love to work out/see how this idea could be adapted for the Chinese mini lathe. Once I install a decent pillar drill and mill there won't be close to enough space in my small back garden workshop for a second late!
Superb video again, especialy for someone who like the tricks from a specialist! One question about the Thread Dial Indicator, can you explain how it is used ( in the video i don't see the detail, perhaps it's easy but for a novice...)
Hi Ivo Thanks for watching.... I actually forgot to mention this important point. You do not need to use the thread dial indicator at all for machining threads in this way. As long as you leave the lead-screw half-nuts engaged all the time until the screw- thread is finished. This is what I like about this method. It cuts out much of the set-up you need to use if you were to machine threads using the motor. Plus like I say, you don't need rapid reactions for cutting threads. If you try it you will be greatly surprised at how easy thread-cutting can be done, plus it gives the ability to make a wide variety of items......Regards Steve
As a complete beginner this was very useful, I'm trying to buy the holders/cutters and was wondering is the cutters in the round bar holder the reverse of the A60 or the same just a different holder. Sorry if its a silly question! Oh and I looked down below, just don't see the links.
superb, i think your the only machinist on UA-cam to explain bore sizes for a thread, if i could thumbs this up a hundred times i would
Hi....Thanks for watching.
Hi FD. Nice to see you here
This is the best thread cutting video I have seen, this will help me learn thread cutting on my ML4
Many thanks
I've cut some threads manually by inserting the chuck key in the spindle and using it to rotate the work, but I've never seen a manual crank operation done like this on a motorized lathe. Neat.
I have a Myford lathe and a crank handle is a standard accessory. I regularly use mine when cutting threads, particularly when cutting in towards a shoulder. Powering into that position is way too risky.
@@caroleast9636 I know the feeling. I normally cut enough relief to get away with it on some jobs, but I have to stay on the controls - and the pucker factor is always high when using power. Otherwise I switch to manual operation. If the shoulder is too high, I use a die and manually operate it over the last half inch. A neat trick I learned a few years ago from another video was to invert the threading tool and run the operation from the rear, forward. It seems almost counterintuitive but it works.
7 minutes in and I'm learning so much from you! Glad I clicked on this and can't wait to learn more. I already know I must get a caliper clock, I need to turn an obsolete awesome set of bike cranks I have- now into machinery crank levers of sorts! And it's inspiring to be reminded of the joy of making threads that don't have to conform to any standards.
I never thought of making a handle to turn the lathe. Excellent .
I like your lite humor. 😊
Great demo, I'll be trying it too. Thanks!!
This is very safe to avoid crashes and not break tools. I like your idea. Besides making nice threads, you get a little exercise. Thank you for this demonstration.
Hi Jeffry....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Have not done any thread cutting yet but this is the method I will be using. Thank you for the video, very clearly explained.
thank you, great video . i really appreciate this video .
You have inspired me to make a handle for my mini metal lathe.
Thanks for posting this Steve. My threading tools and 10 spare inserts arrived yesterday, I bought the same set as yours from BG. I finally ran down the Zeus booklet and now the mystery of internal and external diameters for threading is solved, B.T.W I have also made the expanding mandrel modeled on yours for my mini lathe. Thank you so much for taking the time to do your postings they are much appreciated. Rob - from South Africa
Hi Rob. Thanks for your feedback. Great that you made the mandrel for your lathe. I have had a Zeus book all my life even though one can find the info online it is something I always refer to. I am really pleased with my Mini Lathe and have used it to make so many precision parts. Hope you do well and have a great time using yours. I hope to show some more machining videos soon. Best Regards Steve
Hello Steve your idea about the chip shield worked perfectly I used m5 threaded rod cut them to about 4 inches and slipped on the aluminmum tubing 5 id 1o od . I used 5 m wing nuts to secure . the beauty is the rods and the tubiing support the chip shield . Awesome Idea Thank you
Superb instruction.please make more .
As follows the method I learned as an apprentice toolmaker and as shown on the Colchester Lathes training film.
Set the top slide over to half the thread angle and set the cut depth using the top slide. Grind the tool with half the thread angle.
Set the cross slide at 0 with the tool just touching the job. Move the tool away from the job using the cross slide. Wind the carriage back to clear the job, put the cut on using the top slide and return the cross slide to 0, engage the nut at the appropriate number.
An example and instructions from the mind of a practicle engineer, makes perfect sense to the amatuer like me
Agreat job and explanation, and the best thing is providing the links. I can't thank you enough. I pray to Allah that He bless you and grant you good health. Thanks a million.
Thank you SO much for this invaluable tutorial Steve,my next turned project can now be multi-part without living in terror of the lathe!Brilliant,much obliged sir.🏆
Excellent, thank you. I have never attempted screw cutting in the lathe, always been nervous about it but your technique seems very simple and straightforward. Given me confidence to give it a try. 👍
Thought you were crazy at first but it makes a lot of sense. The older I get the slower my reflexes are so this looks interesting.
I've done this method quite a lot over the years - for some reason I often used a 26 TPI pitch whatever the dia. I too use a spindle handle a lot for screw cutting.
Like those clock calipers. You have a great collection of measuring gear.
Hi Chris, I really like this method the best now. I just do not have the quick reactions I had when I was younger. I have managed to get the calipers etc for really good low prices on Ebay lately. I look out for stuff on there that is listed to end at odd times, when other people tend to forget when to bid.....like when there is a important football match on the TV....:)
APU..................excellent..................more than.........Thank you so much for your time. David from"Downunder"
Thank you Steve for showing this, it takes the stress out of thread cutting.
Great method, thanks.
Finally got round to cutting my thread, using this method I managed to cut a fine thread in brass with excellent results, hand winding takes all the stress out of it. Thanks For the tip.
Thank you, this will be a great method for me. Not only am I a novice, but I also have a standard change-gear lathe, so there's no lovely gearbox levers to adjust on it. Changing gears really isn't that difficult, but it does take time adjusting backlash...not to mention the research I have to do to make sure I have the right gears in the right places :)
+Knolltop Farms Hi Thanks for watching. I do not have a gearbox either and it does take up some time. I only change the gearing though if I am cutting standard size threads. If I cut non standard I tend to leave the gearing set for 19 tpi like in the video. I may do a video on the gear changing on my lathe sometime....it took me some time to figure it out!!
Great job of threading. The Myford lathe has some nice features. The threading handle is a great tool and I like the flat cross slide with all of the "T" slots. That would be a good feature on any lathe.
Hi...Thanks for watching
This is brilliant, I am going to have to give this a try. Many thanks and greetings from Africa.
+David Wootton Hi David.....thanks for watching..Regards Steve
I tried your method today . I wanted yo cut an internsl thread on new crankcase I am making for a small diesel engine. The thread needed was 32 tpi. Getting the gears right on my very old Myford lathe , I think its an early lm 2 , was the hardest part. I couldn't fit a handle soused the large pulley wheel and turned the thread quite easily. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for information
Awesome idea, I have a large 15" lathe but will try the crank. Dont know at 83 if i will be able to reach the handle and have enough strength to crank it. I will give it a try...
Great idea
Most interesting & useful & crash free which suits me greatly given I once crashed my ml7 & broke the half nut making me very wary of power feed. Also very interesting how you move back in time to before Mr. Whitworth when there were many thread sizes & make what suits your job. Makes sense as I often struggle to make things to be a standard size when often there is no real need. Nice thread cutting tooling too. Thanks for sharing.
I like the crank...gives you more control
that wrench you use on the tool rest looks very similar to a type of wrench once used on EMC data storage (Symmetrix) cabinets.
Another well explained video Steve, I use my winding handle on my lathe for threadcutting too, another reason I clear the tool on the return stroke is if there's a slight amount of backlash between the leadscrew & the half nuts the tool will bind on the work & make a wider cut than needed,I've oddtimes "forgotten" to remove the handle after finishing & turning another job & the lathe gives an unpleasant shake!!! he he.
Great idea , especially for the inexperienced like myself . I like the bike crank for the handle.
all the best to you Steve and yours from John in Texas
Another great video Steve, I had never thought of thread cutting with the manual crank method, excellent idea :)
Thanks for watching. Regards Steve
I know, right? That makes SO much sense! I'm off to make a manual crank for my mini lathe now!
That has to be the best explanation on how to thread I have ever seen! And thanks for the description of the book.
I really enjoy your videos Steve! The indepth explanation you provide in your all your projects are superior and very rare to see for these types of videos. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise, uncomplicated methods for the deferent type of machining practises. It really helps a great deal for hobbist like myself. Thanks
+Gary Lalonde Hi Gary thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. I hope to put some more videos on soon. Regards Steve
I cut left hand threads on the mini lathe by reversing the lead screw rotation on the back of the mini lathe and use your hand crank design. works real good!
Hi....That's great......Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Thank you so much for this video. It has made me more confident to attempt threading my projects.
The hand crank is so simple and controllable, great. Peter
Thank you
Thank you! You are the only person on youtube that fully explained threading. I had a question specifically about bore sizes, i need a chart. Thankfully your videos are here.
You still need the chart. There is no other way to know what bore size is used for a particular pitch.
I am intigued by your crank handle, can you explain how it is engaged into the spindle please.
Yet another great lesson from Steve. The man to watch for learning. Thanks Steve.
Very Nice job
Thankyou have homemade lathe this will work perfectly for me ty
Hi Steve great video. The more I watch the more I learn from you. I also made a crank handle for my South Ben once I seen yours. Use it mostly with my tap and die set. And yes as a beginner I am terrified of crashing the tool trying to cut threads with the lathe but not now got a new way of learning it. And also I was able to make a indexing plate after talking to you out of a sprocket I found at my local farm store. Just had to bore the center out to fit the back of my chuck and bolted it onto the back .It has 30 positions not 24 could not find one 6 inches in that count. Works great. Keep up the videos.
Hi Sharon....That's great. I never thought of using a sprocket, what a great idea! I use my lathe handle a lot for all threading. Also it is great to use if you have a chuck that screws onto the spindle. I hold the chuck with one hand while using the handle, with the other, which makes it much easier and safer to do. The only thing I have to be really careful of is when I am working quick, or get distracted, is to remove the handle after use. I have actually started the lathe with it in the spindle by mistake!! I have recently made a couple of new handles and I have found a nice small red LED warning light that will fit easily on any handle. This is another safety measure I use to stop this happening again.....I hope to show this in an update video soon. Regards Steve
That was brilliant. I am totally new to a lot of this. Thankyou for all your advice on types of tools very skilled and interesting.
Congratulations, is very simple your method. I like. Thanks.
Just OUTSTANDING,,,,,will save this newbie a ton,,,
I watch a lot of your videos and really appreciate the depth and the thought you put into them. I have a 1942 model f atlas and do a lot of work and use a lot of your ideas. thanks a bunch
Hi Leo, Thanks for watching. I've never used an Atlas lathe. They look well made like the Myford Lathes. Hope to do another video soon. Regards Steve
Steve,you make it look easy every time...cool video.
brilliant and thankyou for this, im not scared to do this anymore and actually cant wait to try!! awesome spindel mandrel idea as i have a ml7 too, game changer video for me this is thankyou steve !!
hi sir your all videos so nice n very useful
Thanks Steve that was great tip. I knew about not Gorey and with getting the exact right gears, but I had never thought of that cutting it manually with my spindle handle
Thank you for an excellent video and links to the tools although not quite so easy on a colchester student lathe.
Thank you for sharing this outstanding method ! I was totally unaware of this but recognize the versatility and reliability it gives.
Hi Fred, Thanks. It is particularly good for very fine threads with a short run depth. Like the components you get on optical equipment plus other similar items where it is almost impossible to use conventional threading methods. I do use this method for any threads I have to do now though. Regards Steve
The other essential is a tailstock tap and die holder for cutting standard sized threads. That is much easier than using this method.
Not for large diameter threads, though.
@@SteveJordan - no, probably only for 12-15mm maximum.
Can I use my Imperial Boxford Lathe to cut a Metric thread?
Your are the best,,,thanks for taking the time to set up the cameras giving us excellent coverage of your projects ..TW canada,s west coast
Hi Tony, Thank you for watching and your encouraging comment....Regards Steve
This is one of the best home workshop videos I have seen, so I have subscribed! I'm interested in buying my own small lathe so any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
all of them so nice I'm try to learn from you thanks sir
Outstanding
Great.
Excellent. Thank you
This is a very interesting video! I was always weary of cutting threads on a lathe but this way it is really easy and safe to do. Thanks!
Hello - that looks quite easy. Not sure but I've seen other machinists angle the compound to match the thread angle and then feed in on that rather than the cross-slide. I think the theory is that it just cuts on one side of the tool then.
I've done it both ways. They both work if the bit is sharp and set up correctly.
Very nice method for cutting threads ! thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Hi Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Thank you, wonderful information.
Hi Robert.....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Amother brilliant video (as usual). Dom in Belfast.
Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Very nice. Can't wait to try this.
Hi....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
It works a treat - 3/8" x 16 tpi for the 1-2-3 block and M12 for the T nuts on the mill - in stainless as well - perfect. Thanks
Excellent. I really like the hand crank idea. I must look back through your videos to find the instructions for making the crank.
Enjoyed learning from you, keep up the good work
very nice video Steve,very well explained.....
The problem with lathe and mill etc work is standardisation, all thread every hole must be made, so everybody can reproduce holes a tread and other machining work. I am glad that at least one person who steps from the standardisation ladder and just produced what HÉ likes, thank you!
Hi Arend.....Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
How to do the anti slippering grid on the the outside of the brass ?
That is done with what is called a knurling tool.
Very useful. Joss in Cork.
Hi Joss....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Hi Steve. I have just made a hand crank and indexing hub, as per your earlier vid, many thanks for making it so clear and simple. In this video, you are turning a metric 24mm thread, and I am keen to try it for myself. My mini lathe ( almost certainly similar to yours) only has change gears for up to a 2mm pitch, but 24 mm calls for a 3mm pitch. As an inexperienced machinist (me) that is, does it really matter what pitch I set? Or should I just set the maximum I can and just use the correct 60 deg indexable tool? I’m not cutting to match another internal thread, just something else I will also cut. So I’m guessing that to a certain degree anyway, pitch will not matter.
Steve I must say that you are a fantastic teacher mate I have learnt so much from watching your instructions mate . Can I use the the lead screw to achieve the same results
Using the lead screw is the ONLY way to do it. You have to set the threading gears to the particular thread pitch that you desire.
Hello, good idea, is it as easier on steel ?
Hi Yes it works fine on steel with light cuts and use of cutting oil....Regards Steve
Ok cool, thanks!
Very good demonstration on threading. Really like the technique of hand powered threading. I am thinking you forgot to add the tool holder and insert numbers. If you could still do that it would be much appreciated. Thank you for your effort doing these videos.
Hi Glenn, Many thanks for watching....I have just included the tool numbers and insert types in a comment above. I will do this where applicable, on other videos, within a day or two of uploading. My Regards Steve
I had to edit the tool numbers......I think they are all correct now!
very nicely done Steve never thought about doing it that way thanks for sharing
Hi Wade....Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Great tip on thread cutting. Thank you
That is fascinating. Great demonstration. Threading is on my list to master.
Thanks that well be very handy!
Hi Danne.....Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
great video, have see you use it before but great to have it explained. I also have an ml7 built in about '65 in really good condition, was wondering if you would consider doing a video walk through of your lathe and its modifications and use of the Myford lathe, back gear etc. there doesn't seem to be much on Utube on the basic operations of these lathes.
Once again thanks for the work you put into your videos.
Cheers from Australia
Raymond
Hi Raymond, Thanks for watching. Yes I will try and get round to that sometime. My lathe was made in 1936. My brother did a lot of restoration work on it and I put new counter-shaft bearings, a new spindle mandrel and bearings and a new motor plus several other bits. Also I changed the motor pulley for a larger one (as stated in the ML7 handbook), giving it better speeds. Regards Steve
Never seen this before and what a great idea for those who may not have the kit for professional operations and for working in the smaller lathes.
Brilliant, never seen anyone post such an easy way to make (in my case fine pitch camera filter threads) on short homemade adapters for telescope and
lens fittings, some with only 3 to 5 mm long work pieces. The conventional way is very tricky to say the least! Thanks for sharing, I have joined your channel. Used have an Myford Super 7 back in the 1960's before I emigrated to Tasmania 😃 land of sunshine and clear skies for astronomy.😁
Hi Shevill, Thanks for subscribing. Yes it makes everything a whole lot easier for threading. It should be excellent for doing those fine short threads you have to cut. I actually use this method all every time I do the screw-cutting now. It has made thread cutting so easy and I haven't had one failure since using it. I do actually think that it was used as a method a lot more throughout history than we realise. I have spoken to other engineers that cut the threads like this.
Sounds great in Tasmania and the astronomy must be so interesting, having the clear skies!!
Regards Steve
Great video Steve. Well made. (Bundaberg Australia. -- Ex Pat Welshman!!!!)
I'd love to work out/see how this idea could be adapted for the Chinese mini lathe. Once I install a decent pillar drill and mill there won't be close to enough space in my small back garden workshop for a second late!
The video shows you how to do it in ANY lathe. Doesn't matter if it's Chinese or not.
Thank you.
Bloody marvelous! Nice show.
Awesome vid. Very clever. Thanks for sharing
Okay now I gotta go and build a hand crank for my lathe.... Then I can use it during a power outage too =)
Superb video again, especialy for someone who like the tricks from a specialist! One question about the Thread Dial Indicator, can you explain how it is used ( in the video i don't see the detail, perhaps it's easy but for a novice...)
Hi Ivo Thanks for watching.... I actually forgot to mention this important point. You do not need to use the thread dial indicator at all for machining threads in this way. As long as you leave the lead-screw half-nuts engaged all the time until the screw- thread is finished.
This is what I like about this method. It cuts out much of the set-up you need to use if you were to machine threads using the motor. Plus like I say, you don't need rapid reactions for cutting threads.
If you try it you will be greatly surprised at how easy thread-cutting can be done, plus it gives the ability to make a wide variety of items......Regards Steve
This video makes me see the ned for a hand crank for my lathe. Yup yet another project on the to do list. Thanks. (no sarcasm intended)
Ha, my thoughts exactly ExtantFrodo2
I really enjoy your videos Steve
thanks for sharing some idea... great job.
As a complete beginner this was very useful, I'm trying to buy the holders/cutters and was wondering is the cutters in the round bar holder the reverse of the A60 or the same just a different holder. Sorry if its a silly question! Oh and I looked down below, just don't see the links.