Mercedes-Benz M-Class Brake Job HD
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Rotors was purchased at Rockauto.com but I personally recommend you to keep your OEM rotors and resurface them at your local auto shop or take them to O'Reilly, they will do it only for $12 each, but if your rotor really warped then just get new one. I recently switch to Advance Auto Parts, you can get great discounts by ordering online ! And rotors there great, specially performance edition, with gray coating.
Ceramic brake grease that I use in this video made by CRC. No.05361
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There are things I like about this video but I direct people to the points shared by Ian Harris. I agree - watching someone whacking their socket wrench with a hammer just made me queazy. "But don't over-tighten them cuz you can break them" is rather worrisome. If you want to tighten something properly, best to do your homework and then execute. Indeed the stirrup to hub bolts are more than just torque-sensitive. They are torque plus angle fastened. Look it up: according to Mercedes my W166 (2015 ML250) requires 80 Nm (59 ftlb) of snugging up followed by a final tightening of 45° (1/8 turn) either with a proper angle gauge or at least by eyeball estimation. Most performance cylinder heads today are torque to yield with one-time use bolts for this reason. Over-tightening the hub/stirrup bolt could result in bolt failure at some inconvenient time and better to secure according to the guys in white lab coats at MB. My motto when working on my cars is "Anything worth doing is worth doing properly" especially a vehicle that cost me $65,000! This is NOT a 1966 VW Bug. If you are unfamiliar with torque and angle fastener tightening please find out and do not damage your car. On the plus side the gentleman did torque his rims back on at 110 ft-lbs which is correct, as far as I know. The good folks at Gorilla Tire & Battery probably use 110 + X, where X is a number between 0 and infinity.
Thank you for comment . Carzy I just now seen it after a year. I do things differently now. Have more tools and knowledge
Your video and your discussion are well-detailed. I love it. On top of that, your hand isn't shaking so it's so easy to watch your video. Thanks a MILLION.
Did my front brakes and pads this week. Your video came handy. Thank you. Please make sure you have all the right tools before starting the project. On 2014 model, the caliper bolts are 21 MM.
VK he said his is 2012 model
It is January 2023, 7 yrs later, thank you so much!
Gald to help
Great video, great to see the job done properly with grease. Others don't do this!
Все очень четко и профессионально показано SUPER !
Super gemacht, danke fürs Video 👌👍👏👏
Thank you so much for this video. God bless you and please continue to make more videos.
thanks
This is the best auto repair video I've ever seen!
thank you. what did u liked so much about it?
Very highly appreciated! Thank you bro, I saved at least 500.00 bucks. You are the best.
This is a well don't video. Easy to watch, understand and stated the bolt sizes and tool sizes used. Everything great until he used a hammer to tighten the caliper bracket. A torque wrench should be used. He even said they could be snapped. I believe 55Nm is the proper setting if using a torque wrench. I understand not everyone has a torque wrench....Still a thumbs up though on the video.
Nice video very clean job. Thanks for helping out man.
Nice video sir. I just subscribed. Kindly advise which year is your ML350
This one was 2012 :)
Thanks! Great video.
love it. thank you much! now i can do mine
creatorr24 u welcome, check more video I have for Mercedes.
thanks for watching! !!
Excellent video. This was perfect for what I wanted. 5 Stars...
Michael Koval check my channel maybe you'll find something interesting, i have more videos about Mercedes. And as always thank you for watching
what brand of lubricant and cleaner do you recommend
Get CRC chlorinated brake cleaner , they in red can. The one in green can, smell to string and burn.
Never use wheel bearing grease!!! I use Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (in violet or green container)
question where do you buy the rotors and how much is cost? i go to the dealer ship they want 900$ to change all 4 rotor
I recommend you resurface your rotors at O'Reilly Auto Parts if you have one in your town or local shop but I buy my rotors from rockauto.com
Letran if you can resurface your rotors, do that !!! you can do it at O'Reilly Auto Parts for only $12, if not, go on rockauto.com and buy ACDelco or Raybestos dont by Bendix, Power Stop or Centric, they warp to fast. Duralast from autozone sucks too an exception of their black-coated version. I have them on BMW z4 and on my Moms Honda Fit - Works perfect booth cars brakes being abused ! Still good, Mercedes rotors - warp, my Cadillac that had a Power Stop have to replace 2 times, on Buick had to change Duralast rotors twice also..
I did my ML320 front/rear brakes and rotors a few years ago. I used ceramic brake pads and chrome plated rotors with cooling holes from eBay for $170 whole package came with two sensors. I prefer ceramic brake pads and chrome plated rotors for better braking and cooling rotors.
U said few years ago?. U still have them? how the holds up? I'm heavy braker, drive over 20k a year, have to change my brakes ever 2 years lol. Not on MB, that want not mine. I had BMW, now Toyota RAV4.
@@IvanRossS Semi-metallic pads cannot take a higher temperature for frequent braking. Ceramic pads can hold higher temperature and cooler. Ceramic pads with ventilation holes rotor should go together. Mine ML 2003 only has 65000 miles. The ceramic pads are better than the semi-metallic pads. I can feel the stopping distance is shorter and better. Ceramic pads are good for any cars. I got mine from eBay dealer, generic brand or similar better brand for Mercedes. Try it and you won't go back and regret it.
@@IvanRossSClean and informative clip! I did 2013 ml350 front and rear brakes replacement at auto shop today, cheaper than dealership. I drive around 20k a year and right now total almost 100k KM since bought it 2013(50% highway and 50%local)😊 it's my ml350 first time to replace brake pads (Semi-metallic pads)and rotors (cross holes type). I check old pads still have 4mm front and 2mm rear, and looks like it can last another 10k 😁 it's really surprise me OEM brakes takes 100k KM👍 by the way my front rotor looks biger and pads biger (AMG package?) rear rotor smaller and pad smaller. Next time I will replace pads and rotors till sensor activated...lol
Your awesome
Good video with basic information easy to follow. However my trouble is trying to find a 11mm hex bit socket so I can do this job right now. No auto parts store, hardware or big store has it🤬
Hey buddy great video! I think maybe the break sensor is back to front! Keep it up! 💪 apologise if I’m wrong!
Nice video...
Do I have to change the Rotors if I replace the pads?
Dan Johnson no you don't have to change rotors. Specially if they're not really warped. But I highly recommend to resurface them. You can get it done for only $12 at O'Reilly per one
Screen Share thank you!!
Dan Johnson from my brake replacement experience, I noticed that OEM rotors probably the best on Market so I would recommend u to just resurface them unless they completely warped and in really bad shape. I never had good experience with aftermarket rotors..
Should you clean zinc plated rotors with brake cleaner before installing? I thought they don't require any cleaning.
Great video. Just saved me £100 ph in Mercedes lol
bat fastard I'm glad I did, thank you for watching
nice video.....
LRZMUSIC thanks , have few more videos and MB, check them out
don't tap the wrench with mallet, buy torque wrenches.
if you are serious about maintaining your own car at home, invest in torque wrenches of various sizes.
Already have all that no. video is old.
Thank you
You don’t use a torque wrench to break stuff loose!? You only use those to torque a bolt to a certain ft-lb. you use a BREAKER BAR to break stuff loose....NEVER USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO BREAK STUFF LOOSE.
Same for a 2015? Also my kit came with one sensor. Is there only one sensor in the from and one in the rear?
Should be the same and yes only one sensor.
Thank you
Is the job different in any way if you have to do multiple brakes at once?
The caliper part that thing I can't pull out idk why
Excellent video!
Thank you.
Great help. Thank you!
Ernie Clapton Glad I helped!!
Great video, but I would replace rotors with only MB genuine rotors and pads...worth the extra money ..they last much longer.
Advance sold me wrong rotors twice....
I get it if you just don't have the money. I've been there too. ( pick a part rotors )
Bf Cunningham yes u right I should of just resurface it. Aftermarket rotors are all crap.
how did you get rid of the brake code?
Sensors. Replace them. !
Awesome video, waiting for the rear brake job. Please recommend the best brake pads for my 2012 ML 350
what u mean u waiting on rear brake job. I have a vidoe of how to replace rear too
Excellent video Thx
Kazik Mitus thank you sir I really appreciate it if you have any questions I'll be glad to answer
How long did it take you in real time to do the job on 1 brake?
Great video. I have a 2014 ML 350 4 matic would it be the same as what you showed in the video?
Michael I wouldn't know the answer to that, I do not know your model (example W166) find out what your exact model and Google it, see what is generation of your vehicle and if it's in this year range, then you should not have a problem
LET'S RIDE FAST&TEST OUT!!!
Can i do without the compression ? And is it possible to compress using a different method ?
Why would you do it with out compression? U have problems to access menu?
Screen Share i mean i dont have a compressor was wondering if i can compress the brake peice using a diff method btw Thanks for getting back to me video is perfect
@@threefiftyml1454get tool "c - clamp" for $10. To press in caliper cylinder. Nothing else will work. You can try use big ass pliers but u can brake something. U can even get this tool even at Walmart .
www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-industrial-c-clamp-37850.html?cid=paid_google|||37850&gclid=CjwKCAjwkun1BRAIEiwA2mJRWVcTAGTjW57f6H6u7l_TcHZPbcYmzu0HlaokqEAdI3USWgSaXsE1ZRoCaQ8QAvD_BwE
Screen Share alright thank you so much very informative video and help ! Hope you well !!!
You need to replace the rotors at 50k miles? Or just the pads?
Jeff Noble Is the depends how bad your rotors warp, I recommend to keep your original roltors and just resurface them at the local shop or at O'Reilly Auto Parts
Ya I did
Is this the same process exact for the 2010 model???
Kyle Palmer you have second generation wish was produced from 2006 - 2011. On vidoe this is 2012, third generation. But it should very similar. not like rear brakes !!!
hey man my 2013 ml350 should up the light say check for break pad wear but they dont say front or rear do you know how to check?
Letran there is no other way to check beside looking at it, you have to remove the tire and take a very close look, sometime the pads from the inside wearing out faster then outside of the rotor that is more visible.
thank alot
Letran sorry couldn't help much . But there is only one way. Remove tire and take a closer look and inspect brakes and wires to the sensor
good stff
Awesome Video bro !!!
Hey man I'm working on my front break pad right now I remove 2 bolt behind and trying to pull out the brake is not comingoff
Letran did u pull both pins from caliper? ? Like I show on video
after hour of hour i finish it front and rear :D now i need to do the front for e60
Letran why u couldn't remove caliper? ?
The ting that hold the piston I remove 2 bolt and trying to pull it out but is stuck is there any more bolt?
Letran no, there is no bolt. Look how I pull it from the bottom on the video
Letran also did you remove the clip in the front of it
awsome demostration
Is this the same on a 2003 Mercedes ML350?
Yes. Layout slightly different. But its same
Your videos have been a great help, easy to follow. Just finished front and rear rotors and pads. Caliper bracket are nice and snug on all 4. Rear calipers are on nice and tight mo movement at all. Front different story, caliper has some movement in it side to side, this seems odd? Car is still up on stands just doesn't feel right, any help.
Honestly I do not know what to answer I do not have this vehicle anymore. Just make sure you install everything correct and all bolts are tight and the size of your brake pads are correct I currently own Toyota RAV4 and rear brakes on it do move a little bit side to the side. . also remember when you finish your brake pad replacement you have to pump your brake pedal min 10 times. 2 bring pressure back to the caliper. If you're doing all this I highly recommend you to flush your brake fluid. it's really not that hard just do old school pumping techniques, but you will need a friend for that who will be pumping brake pedal
@@IvanRossS Thanks, rechecked everything now just an issue with the caliper clips, not staying in place. Bleed brakes already.
Got it set , the clip they needed to set in the holes on the caliper all the way there is a lip that holds then in place. Again thanks for your video it gives a novice a lot of "help" in the understanding of a simple procedure.
Great clip.
Great Job. I am trying to do the back wheel for the same Model and year ML. have you done a youtube for the back yet?. Any recommendation or the brand you used is good enough? looking forward for the back wheel if you are planning to have them done. Thank you
Yes I will make a video of how to replace rear too, if I'm not mistaken rear have simular setup, they just smaller. and just make sure u get zinc plated rotor, mine was not... even that I said it on the video, black I bought from lied about it. the reason that u need to get zinc lated, because in week or so your rotor will look rusted right by the wheel hub (there wheel meet rotor) it doesn't look very good (ugly) check company like "power stop" , "EBS" and "brambo" they brakes experience but rotors cheep! and good. Brakes I will definitely recommend the on I'm showing on video
I don't know form what country your from but here in USA we have autozone auto parts store, Duralast brand is not that good , just like rotors but brakes, I never have problems with them, Ceramic C-Max Duralast brake pads are good, trust me!
Thank you. I think the brake pads in the back do not have the clip that the front Pads do. Actually it is noticeable before you remove them. I bought the rear pads OEM but I could not find anywhere on the web where somebody did the change. I will wait for your youtube. You did a great job explaining the procedure. Great job I will wait for your Youtbe.
Thanks for waiting I will be definitely replacing the rear brakes soon
Another quality video instructions. Thank you. I have a quick question. Is it not necessary to put the vehicle in "Pad Replacement" menu like you showed us for the rear?
V Pandita Honestly I don't know. I heard u can damage something, maybe ABS. What stopping you from placing it in that mode for pad replacement. ???
Nothing. I just didn't see that step in your video. I was expecting the process would be similar for both front and rear.....
V Pandita sorry I didn't notice it's for front. Yes for the front u don't have to do anything. Only for rear!!
Thank you.
what type of grease is that white grease you used in your video?
This is ceramic brake grease buy CRC. No.05361
thanks! Great video btw.
is the sensor come with the break pads or do you have to buy them
Letran no u have to by them. One for the front and for rear
Letran I like Raybestos ceramic pad or I recently starred use Wearever breaks from Advance. Duralast Cmax pad from AutoZone from AutoZone good too. Don't buy Centric and Power Stop. Never had luck with them.... also Acdelco good pads too. The important thing is what rotor u have !!!!! Don't buy Bendix or Centric like in video. They suck.... also autozone cheep rotor is garbage... just in the year you're going to warp them and vehicle start to shake and you would have to resurface them... they black coat like or better. I would recommend you to resurface your original rotors if they can be resurfaced or buy them from dealership or find cheaper online wis exactly same part number...
thank alot man
Letran u welcome. I have more videos on that MB
Thanks for the vid
I still can't get the brake wear light to go off after replacing the rear brakes on 2011 ml350 any suggestions?
Kyle Self have you reset computer in your car on the dashboard like I'm showing. my sensor never went off, so I don't think so I was resetting that option
Screen Share I reset the service C and thought that would do it, my new pads didn't come with a new sensor so I used the old, in wondering if that is the cause
Kyle Self was it showing on dashboard that u need to replace pads when u start replacing it????
Kyle Self if it showed on dashboard that u need to replace pads, your sensor was triggered. and now u need new one !!!!!!! there is circuit in sensor, when it shaved of by a roter it's brake circuit and trigger sensor, after that sensor is done. and u need to get new sensor that not shaved of and done have broken circuit inside of it. u need new sensor point blank!!!!
Screen Share thanks will do
Great video! One thing to remember , once you press the second caliper pistons in , the brake fluid will flow out of the brake fluid reservoir. I recommend sucking as much fluid out as possible before starting a brake job and even better ,bleeding all 4 calipers after the brake job, adding fluid as needed at the end. What brake fluid is best on this year of ML350? What about re-setting the brake monitor ?Thanks
Would this also work on a 2013 ML 350?
Doug Mintz yes it will it's the same generation
Hitting your socket wrench with a lump-hammer to undo/tighten the bolts is not a good idea - You will damage the wrench.
Use a breaker bar to undo, and a torque wrench to tighten correctly - tightening with a lump-hammer is a poor technique to show on an instructional video - you say 'don't over-do it', you have no idea what torque you have applied to the caliper carrier bolts.
You don't highlight that these are stretch bots, for one-time use - home mechanics need to be aware of this when working on safety critical components.
The OEM bolts have a powdered thread-lock - if not using new OEM bolts, you MUST use a thread-lock liquid and torque correctly.
Useful video, but too many errors and omissions.
Also please answer to your self what is torquing and what is need for? Then u will under where to apply and where not to apply... SMH..