DO I NEED TO REPLACE MY BRAKE ROTORS? BRAKE ROTOR REPLACEMENT ULTIMATE GUIDE PLUS BONUS INFO!
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2024
- When replacing your brake pads you may ask... Do I need to replace my brake rotors when replacing brake pads? In this video I show you what you need to know to answer that question! Join me for the BRAKE ROTOR REPLACEMENT ULTIMATE GUIDE. Plus bonus information on how to check for rotor thickness variation and brake vibration diagnosis.
Is rust on rotors ok?
How much corrosion on rotors is ok?
How to measure rotors
How to check rotor condition
How to use a brake caliper gauge
Do I need to worry about grooved rotors?
What causes groove in rotors?
Special bonus of how to easily check for thickness variation of the rotor to see if you may have a brake vibration issue and how to fix that problem!
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Thank you so much for this great video that actually answers the question "do I need to replace my rotors" in a specific and useful way!
Thanks Jim!
This is absolutely one of the best video on break rotors. My 2010 Mazda 5 Premacy still has the original rotors in it. I only use organic break pads so they're gentle on the rotors. Also, I always check the rotors' condition similar to what you've shown and they still pass the test. I think it's due to my driving style (I'm gentle on the breaks) and I regularly clean the rotors and pads as well as lubricate the caliper slide bolts. あなたは素晴らしい自動車整備士です！日本からのご挨拶！
Hello kenjithomas, Thank you :) Glad you found my video helpful and thank you for the great comment. Sounds like your doing a great job in saving money with your braking style!
how do you clean the rotor? Mine just has a little rust.
Thanks for sharing that you can go through one more full set of pads at minimum thickness. I didn’t know.
Glad to help share the knowledge :) Most people do not know this and it is common practice at shops to sell more parts to make more money.
I like your passion for brake rotors.
Saving money is important 😀
Why I don't trust mechanics. Took my car in bc of rpm's high before changing gears. Told me maybe differential but rotors NEED to be changed bc of grooves. Said should be smooth. Didn't say anything about thickness. Car doesn't shake when breaking. Said should change pads since changing rotors. All for $450 + tax. That was the running sale. Glad I trusted my gut. And decided to wait and research. Thank you for this detailed video.
You are very welcome Dawn! Grooves can be caused from hard spots in the pad material. Not uncommon and rotors do not need to be replaced unless they are below min.
I appreciate this a lot, my car has been vibrating while going over 60 mph, and (results are inconsistent) sometimes will vibrate the car when braking. This morning, I gently pressed the brakes while going 35 and thought I was about to die because of how badly the car was rocking. It was full on death-metal head-banging.
Before I replace the tires (which definitely need to be) I’m definitely going to look into getting the brakes checked out
Your welcome and I am glad you found the video helpful! Take a peek at your rotors to see what condition they are in. Do you see rust buildup or any rotor discoloration? Also male sure to check for any play in your suspension and the thrust bushings.
@@AskTheCarExperts I started changing the rotors and pads out completely since they were pretty thin, and I could feel deep grooves around the rotor, and there was quite a bit of rust building up around the edges.
But I’m going to have to hold off until morning because the god-damned brake caliper piston compressor broke (handle rotates, but the bolt doesn’t) so I’m going to have to wait until I can cut it off and buy a stronger one
@@AskTheCarExperts update: brakes have been replaced successfully, now imma have to work on my car’s fuel pressure valve thingy so it doesn’t die while I’m driving [insert crying emoji with shades]
Nothing like honest straight to the point advice from a mechanic....
@@koksionglee7978 😀 Absolutely!
Great video on such a vital part of the braking system on a vehicle.
Thanks James! I have been working hard trying to come up with valuable content.
Thanks for the great explanation. Helped me a lot.
@@chrisparsons3141 I am glad it helped!
This video is amazing and explained incredibly thoroughly. The only question I still have is I purchased my car second hand (also a BMW) and it seems like the previous owner slapped on new pads but didn't change the rotor. When I did measurements myself, the rotors are already below the minimum thickness (the lip is pretty pronounced and the pads seem like they are 6/8ths worn. My question is if there is anyway to know if I should replace my rotor in that scenario (what if the rotor was already well below the minimum and then the previous owner put on new pads). Will I suddenly encounter a scenario where I just can't brake at all or will there be obvious signs before that happens? I asked my dealership this question and the service advisor said no need to change my rotors but he and the technician only looked at the brake pad not the rotor measurements. Apart from that, I still get a strong brake under high speed, no wobble, however I am hearing a lot of that low rotor thickness screech when im stopping.
Hello Sueddo, Thank you! I am glad the video was informative. You do have a unique situation. If the brake pads where installed below the min thickness it would be advisable to replace the pads and rotors. But since there is no way to know, you have to do what feels right for you. Having a deep lip is not uncommon. If the brakes are still stopping strong, you could decide to wait until the pads are a bit lower. But for safety reasons, I would recommend changing them out. Better to be safe.
My 2008 Lexus GS 350, a used car I bought to replace a 2007 which was totaled, started making noises as if the wear-indicators came into play. Examining all four brakes, I discovered that the brake pads were fine; however, front rotors were worn below the minimum thickness, 27mm.
Someone might have done a pad slap and did not measure them. Good find!
Very good video. Measurement errors could lead to a false decision especially when u are basing decisions on difference in the magnitude of one hundredth of a millimeter. A difference or variance of .03 mm is just crazy considering operator contribution to measurement error.
Very true! Thanks Zade!
Good video!! Well done!
@ac28loaiza3 Thanks bud!
I think most repair shops charge about $70 per corner (on car lathe). Good video! I usually just replace the rotors once they look like that.
I am going to be giving FCP euro a try for brakes with a lifetime warranty. Might be a good insurance policy 😀
@AskTheCarExperts fcp is king for that! It'd be perfect if you got cash back instead of credit.. but then again we all buy parts eventually. Ecs tuning just rolled out their lifetime guarantee as well :)
Absolutely! Good to know about ECS as well!
This video is amazing, thank you!
Thanks! I thought this would be an interesting topic 😀
Super helpful video, thank you! Saved me some money ❤
Your welcome Sam!
Last time I changed pads I went to ceramic. Big mistake, after about 5k miles I started getting a pulsating (not in the pedal) when I come to a stop. Changed the rotors and went back to OEM pads. No problem now. Come to find out, the ceramic pads don’t shed heat as well as the OEM pads and caused the rotors to get too hot and it warped them. But I normally continue using rotors if they’re in good shape and within specifications.
Hello, Thanks for sharing! So far the ones I put on have been good with no brake vibration. I am into them about 1200K so far. I will update everyone if I get any odd symptoms. But I love the no brake dust. Quality of rotors and pads may make a difference sometimes.
Great video thank you! Very clear and detailed.
Thanks Nat!
Dude....just use a dial indicator to quickly check lateral runout.
Thickness Deviation is a different issue than runout. You will see it as run out but that could be in the hub surface or wheel bearing. This way you know the rotor is the source.
Wonderful informative video. thank you
Thanks Ted!
If somebody has enough material left, he can do some soft touch of machining, taking out maybe 0,05-0,1mm. Just to have it smoother. One disc, can change up to 3 sets of pads if done correctly.
Hello Uroskosic, Machining rotors a small bit can sometimes clean up the high spots. Some shops will still do off the car brake machining. The new method at BMW is to use an on car brake lathe which can even compensate for some hub deviation. But it should be at least .5 above min thickness before cutting and after cutting it cannot be below the min thickness stamped on the rotors for safety reasons.
Most shop just want you to change the rotors, Thanks great video.
Thank you! They often do! I thought it would be helpful to help people know the real options.
My dealer pointed out that my back brakes are down to 4 mm.
To get them replaced at my next service at a cost of $1,200.00 Aust.
Yeah right, i though. I already knew my rear pads were down past half way mark. But i also knew tgat my rotors are fine and well within specs, hence needing more than likely no replacing. So? I have brake pads costing me $75.00.
Soon i fit them myself and even if my rotors did need replacing, would in total only cost me $350.00 at most. That is $950.00 less! It shows how these dealers rip people off.
@@Golfr2020 They should have given you the option if the rotors are in good condition. I would recommend BMW parts.
Awesome job.... good info.
Thanks Gary!
Another helpful video, thanks!
I have an E82 and an E84. I did a full set of rotors, pads and retaining clips on my E82 two years back no probs.
Last year, I did my wife's E84 xDrive front rotors and pads only the rears still had plenty of pad etc.
She started experiencing front brake squeal when cold especially when backing out of the garage.
This began a couple of months after I swapped the fronts for new.
All parts from my BMW dealer, I have a good relationship with the guys there.
Any ideas on the squealing?
I made sure to lube contact points well with the BMW brake grease supplied by the parts mgr.
Never had this issue w my E82 (sports pkg), different car of course.
Thanks again! I remember you N52 valve cover gasket video being a huge help on my car in the past!
Hi Mario, Great to hear you think the video is helpful! Actually next week's video is on this topic :) If you would like to watch it early I can try and send a private link to your email. Go to my website and hit the contact me tab www.askthecarexperts.com The good news is that you can definitely get rid of the brake noise.
@@AskTheCarExperts That's great! I'll do that right now. -Mario
Great tips thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing!what if the rotors are still thick enough but they are warped can you have them turned and will that fix the problem? Thank you!
Hi Mark, You cam Definately have the rotors cut of they do not have heavy flaking on the edges and they are .5 mm above discard spec.
My rotors are warped but still thick and so are the brake pads but my steering wheel vibrates when I brake! if I can have them cut and put new brake pads on I'd save some money also they don't have any deep scratches that would be catching my finger nail! so basically warped rotors can be saved?is what you're saying? Thank you.
@@markchimmy Absolutely they can be machined. BMW has an on car brake lathe or if you know a shop that can cut them removed that would work as well.
Thank you very much!
Do a video on measuring the pads. thank you
Hi Ted, Do you mean with the pads removed or how a tech checks them installed on a vehicle?
@@AskTheCarExperts On the vehicle, thank you
Have a 2020 Accord with 42k miles. Shudder when braking. Dealership says needs rotors resurfaced. Pads at 7mm. Some youtube mechanics say put on new rotors. Some say turning rotors is fine. I was going to turn rotors, but in looking at the pads in your video, are new pads recommended? Do dealerships or mechanics resurface or smooth out the old brake pads so they seat better?
BMW guidelines are when rotors are replaced or when re-surfaced new pads MUST be installed. The pads can take on grooving and the shape of the rotor. So if you have a nice flat surface the contact area on the pads may be poor. In my opinion the pads should also be replaced.
very helpful thx
Hi Nick! Glad to hear that you found it helpful!
Good video
Thanks Andrew!
Rotors are (very) expensive compared to brake pads. Kind of hard question, but how many sets of brake pads before a new rotor is needed ? Mechanic charge me a new rotor every time new brake pad !
Very true. Usually two sets. The shop should measure them for min spec. Above min spec and if they look normal they can be re-used. Many shops want to charge for rotors every time.
Must be great to live in a place where there’s no salt!!!!!
So true! Here in CT I see a lot of corrosion from road chemicals.
I'm from Australia, my 18 year old car hasn't any rust. We only put salt on chips😅.
It is❤️. I live in Australia. However used to go visit my sister in northern England in a district where they do salt / grit in winter . I felt their pain. Brake systems will corrode before they’ll wear🤔 along with the rest of underbody. Also got qite familiar with a snow shovel 😂
Always nice mate 😂 f salt 🧂
Excellent Vid!
Can I turn them if my E90 335i front rotors measure 30 and the min is 28.4 mm? The shop said they take 1-2MM off when turning. (O'Riellys auto parts). Thx!
@KWPS The BMW on car brake lathe spec is .5 above min. But the machine they use may be different. It is close to discard so I would recommend replacement.
I appreciate the reply and excellent suggestion. Best be safer than sorry.
@KWPS Absolutely my friend!
I get a little bit of shaking/grinding when I slow down which goes away the slower I go, but whenever I take a left turn I get a TON of grinding. Is that from worn rotors? I imagine my pads are fine, changed em last year.
That may be from rust build up on the rotors and the pad is dragging. The rust build up can make the pads wear faster. I would do a visual inspection of the rotors to see if there is a lot of rust on the outer edges and the backside of the rotor. That would help confirm that the rotors are the cause.
Nice
Thanks :)
Just took my car to dealership and brakes were at 3. They told me I need rotor snd brake pads. Is that true. Other people have told me I can go for awhile yet.
Hello Nataliera, For BMW 3 MM is the discard level when the pad sensor starts to wear through and trip the warning light. On my BMW X5 since I do a lot of highway driving I went -6000 on my brake pads but the light was on for a while and I wore them down all the way. It really depends on how you drive but you will need to monitor the brake pad level if you decide to hold off. If your warning light is not on yet then you still have time unless the pads are wearing unevenly as the sensor will alert you at about 3mm.
Can rotors get grooving due to heating? Please explain. Thank You
The grooving is caused from hard spots in the pads material and can be from corrosion on the rotor.
Thanks!
Your welcome Scott!
I changed my pads the other day.. one side I did on my lunch break.. lol that's how fast it took
Driver side took 2 hours just the inner side.. It refused to go in for some ungodly reason
If I put it in bottom slot - it wouldn't go in on top and vice versa. Got so frustrated I put the old pad on back.. ( which I had to Pry Off , leaving a divit in my rotor
@@scottschmittmusic That is odd. Maybe some debris in the caliper bracket. Try using a wire brush to clean the area.
@@AskTheCarExperts I will try that, thanks I also grinded some off the tab that goes into the slot
I thought they don't turn rotors no more? And cheaper but new Rotors? I delivered Auto Parts 5 yrs in BC.. Correct me if I am wrong
BMW changed the stance on this and has been cutting rotors for quite some time now. Saves money for warranty so they are onboard now!
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Cheers from America! That sounds amazing! You are welcome to visit me and cook that up for me and my family. Yum!
My mechanic recommended to replace rotors on front. Mind you had my car since brand new for 5-6 years. That fixed the pulsating vibrations when braking. I had new brakes on as well, but later the rotors on rear had to be changed because there was some grinding high pitched noise every morning when reversing.
I was wondering. If a rotor can be turned, is that best if still within spec when installing brand new brake pads? I don’t believe we should have to buy new rotors always that’s expensive.
As long as the rotors are above the MIN spec by .5 mm they can be turned with an on car brake lathe. But if you have heavy flaking on the rotors from rust they should still be replaced.
@@AskTheCarExperts got it and makes sense thanks!
I have a 05 645ci.
The brake warning light illuminated. Wear pad indicator. Checking on the pad I see my rear rotors have these tiny Luminum hats on the hat of the rotor.
Are these rotors needed vs oem equivalent without these aluminum hats?
Also is it necessary to replace the brake pad wear indicator since the brake light came on?
I think the hats may be small welds. On OEM equivalent would be perfectly fine.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thanks for the reply. I was able to find a set of rotors at a you pull it place. No aluminum hats around the center of the rear rotors but at $20 a piece I'm not going to complain. Says made in Germany so it's definitely OEM and not from Autozone. lol. A tiny bit of surface rust but they were about 24.13mm thick. Looks like I will have to replace the brake sensor since once it makes contact with the rotor it breaks the circuit.
I use twice the rotors, then turn it and use two more pads with not problema.
As long as they are above min spec. I would not recommend using rotors that are below spec
I had a car that developed pulsating front rotors.
Sorry to hear that. It is common really on all brands and it can be light moderate and severe.
When I back out of the driveway in the morning, when I brake I hear quite a bit of ruckus at the abs module... like someone tapping on a coffee can with a spoon inside a 50 gallon drum... quite loud and pulsing through the brake pedal to the point of questioning whether it's going to stop or not. Then a very low idle and a slow build up. Any definitive ideas or suggestions? Also, the minimum awareness number seems to elude me. I've Brillo padded this whole rotor down to the metal and haven't found it
The issue you have sounds like more than just brake pads. The ABS should not be turning on an the pedal should not be soft. I don't think I could diagnose this issue with out looking at the vehicle.
@@AskTheCarExperts I totally understand. You actually have to feel it and experienced what I'm feeling in the gas pedal to be able to make a diagnosis. Thank you for your reply and when I fix it I'll let you know what it was.:-) Thanks again
I have some slight grooves on two rotors. Need need brake pads soon. Is it necessary to have all rotors done also? This would be the first time my car needs brakes. 59000 miles.
You will need to measure the thickness of the rotor to see if it is below spec. If the rotors are close to min with the grooving I would replace them.
@@AskTheCarExperts thank!!
My rotor itself says 32mm minimum thickness; my factory service manual says 27mm. Which specification trumps?
Rotor Stamp
I have a question: Normally is there a difference in front and rear rotors? Thanks.
Hi James, Yes the front and rear rotors are usually very different. Rear rotors tend to be less thick than front because most of the stopping force is in the front. Also they can incorporate an inner drum / hat area that is for the parking brake.
@@AskTheCarExperts Again, thanks for your professional immediate response!
@@jameswheeleriii Happy to help when I can my friend!
I’ve never had a vehicle that has enough room behind the dust shield where that rotor caliper would work
Hello, right where the pads sit the dust cover should be more open. That's the place to check :)
@@AskTheCarExperts well man I just looked and I think you’re right. If I ever buy a digital caliper I might look at that type
@@666dynomax Awesome 😀 Thanks for watching and I hope you will enjoy the engine diagnosis and repair videos that are my current videos on my Z3 M54 engine. Cylinder leakage test video coming out tomorrow. Found some major issues in my engine.
Not sure about you advice on minimum thickness, .01mm = 0.00039", pretty sure that is not making a difference on a set of pads! 28.4 vs 28.39mm
BMW spec stamped on the rotor is the minimum amount for a full set of pads. Discard would be anything below the min spec.
@@AskTheCarExperts But there is always common sense don't you think?
@@douglasthomas6365 LOL no common sense is not common 🤣
@@AskTheCarExperts 🤣 🤣 You have that right!! And you can;t borrow it or buy it.
@@douglasthomas6365 LOL 😆
I paid $90 CDN to have 2 rotors machined for a 2017 F150. The cost for new rotors was $200 each. So i saved $310.
However, on smaller vehicles i just replace rotors, as the cost of replacing vs. machining is similar.
Great way to compare cutting vs replacememt.
Why replace rotors for a groove when you can turned it for some $ ?
As long as the lowest point is above min spec you can definitely turn them and remove the grooving.
On average, you should almost always replace your rotors when your pads are truly at the level of replacement.
I also like to do pads and rotors as a set but some people like to get the most out of everything. That is where the condition of the rotor and the measurement comes in as well as when the vehicle is under warranty. Under warranty it is not allowed to replace the rotor if they are above the min and usually the rotor is cut if there are any imperfections.
As long as the rotors are within limits and in good shape there’s no reason to replace them. I’ve used my rotors with more than 150k on them because they were well within safe dimensions to use. I just replaced pads when they were worn.
And sometimes your rotors cost over $500 a piece...😢
In BC they don't turn them, cheaper to replace them
Why would a mechanic try to charge my daughter $900 for a brake job because the rotors are rusted? I replaced daughter’s brake pads only 3 weeks ago and even checked and regressed the slider pins. The rotors were still adequate IMHO based on only a few grooves here and there with some rust adjacentvtobthevwearing surface.
What is your opinion on the mechanic’s fee and reasoning?
Had to stop at the 0:47 mark. I ,loathe BMWs.
LOL They can cost a lot but they are fun to drive.
But he drives a mini-cooper.....😂
This guy a salesman. Do a reading and then walk out and tell the customer how much you’re going to cost them for no repairs that are needed.
Hi Dan, Not sure what you mean. Did you have a bad experience at a shop once?
If this guy is just trying to blow smoke up your butt in a video in order drum up repair business, he’s the worst salesman in history. Now, there could be an argument that he’s selling the tools in the video but as far as making unnecessary repairs, he only stated the specs stamped on his rotor.
Your statement is almost incoherent so maybe I’m wrong but it sounds like you have a problem with mechanics in general. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve been hustled and bamboozled by shady mechanics too but this guy just seemed to be stating specs that you can look up yourself. Honestly, after seeing the very tight tolerances listed here, I actually feel like I’ve wrongly assumed one of my mechanics was indeed NOT ripping me off in the past. He was just going off the specs. Instead of being suspicious maybe I should’ve asked him to explain why I needed new rotors.
Sorry for the long winded post. I just had this realization and thought I’d share. No disrespect intended.
You have a lot of good information but you talk to much sorry
LOL