Thanks for the video! Do we have to replace the return line oring? Is this better than draining torque converter? I cannot find the TC plug..need to turn with 27mm socket, right?
Thomas Hui not all MB have the TC plug, this is definitely a better method because it drains not only the TC but the cooler and all the return lines as well, mercedes had this method in their service manual for the earlier versions . About the o-rings, i like to replace them, but u can inspect them and if u r car has low miles i think these would be fine to re use. Thanks for the comment
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I removed 5L through the return line and pumped in 5L but the old fluid still did not turn to new..still better than just a pan drop.. Your procedure worked for my 16' GLE350. Thx
Hi there,thanks for a great video. I have a question please, What would the symptoms be if you have old transmission fluid? I drive a Ml63 2009 model. Current symptoms 1. Slight vibration on uphill at low revs 2000 rpm low speeds and most prominent when car as at operating temp 102 °C ,not as much when just started up eg. 60°< and the shifting is fine just a bit jurkey as soon as next gear is selected, high speeds gear shifting is much smoother. I would appreciate it so much if you could give some feedback on this.
This video cured all my confusion, I made an appointment with dealer then realized there was no way in hell they would do all this as the tech could not answer a single question I asked. Thanks so much…
Flying mechanic "DIY"? I'd say Flying Mechanic PRO! Even FULL description of job, parts needed, & torque specs in description? Too good. This is the difference between someone who just works on cars & someone who loves cars. Thank you for caring enough to be good at what you do & for giving ppl like me a proper example of this job.
Appreciate the detail of each steps. I flushed my transmission today for the first time at 169,000 for ML350 2010. Connecting clear hose to return line was painful, took me multiple attempts to attach half inch hose, and almost an hour! The entire task took me 4 hours but I was doing it for the first time. Car runs very smooth, no slips and or gear issue. I did use lifeguard transmission flush additive in the old oil before I started to put new oil and new filter. Thanks a lot!
@@TECH-ur6xv Unfortunately yes. Working on them in one form or another as we speak. You start out with one and all is wonderful. Then something happens and maintenance goes on seemingly forever. Then some sort of deal amazement drops in your lap. Because you're looking for a deal of course. And then the same thing rehappens. The cycle repeats. So you end up with more.
I have gone through so many videos on UA-cam regarding ATF changing, I am sure this is the best and contain every information and helped make all of my doubts clear. Thanks a lot
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY my w205 c63 transmission has a wet clutch which cannot be drained correct? About how much fluid should transmission take just removing pan? Thanks!
Thank you for this excellent video. I performed this service on my 2008 CL550, in my driveway, so I was not a quick as you. excellent results using AMSOIL transmission fluid. The most difficult operation was reinstalling the pan with the new gasket, took me a few tries to get the gasket to seal. Very sensitive to the light torque specs. If torqued to tight the gasket rolls and leaks. With 114,400 miles I believe this is the first transmission service on this Mercedes. Old fluid was black, new fluid and the CL550 purrs!
Just completed a transmission flush on my w209 clk500 75,000kms and x164 gl450 90,000kms. Thanks for the great video, your explanation made the job very easy. I did not have the motor medic fluid pump so I used a 1.5L fluid pump and it worked great.
Thank you for being a real technician and doing a proper job.. unfortunately nobody today wants to work like this and no customer wants to pay for a job like this. In America Atleast.
Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.
I was here a few weeks back with some turbine sensor issues in my 722.9 MB wanted to fit a new ECU Unit, but in the end, I drained the oil, drained the TQ (I found the plug) and removed the complete Matrix with attached ECU Control Unit. Using another channel here on YT, I took the ECU Control Unit off the valve body, drained and carefully cleaned that up, and then cleaned the actual ECU Control Body, including removing all 8 Solenoids and the gear shift selector. Loads of very very fine particles of Aluminium or Steel dust everywhere, just enough to cause tracking across the plugs where they are joined onto the foil circuit boards, causing the fault readings on the box (and him getting stuck in 3rd or 7th or ?. It took 6 hours including a total flush of the system and guess what, it's as good as new. 1000 kms later, still perfect!...... When you change the fluid in a 722.9, you also need to clean the ECU Control Unit as well, because you'd be amazed how much micro debrits gets left in there!........ it's all here on YT, and it's not that bad a job after all. Thanks for the tips. I will change the oil again in 3 years including the TQ. Nice to have found the plug!
Real nice and detailed. Worked for my 2014 GL450. Note that there is a thermostat bypass in the cooler lines, so you won’t be able to drain the cooler with this method. Thanks,
In the description it is mentioned that we can still do this exact process with or without additional cooler.. I have 7g PLUS but you are saying no oil will come out of line until 90C??
Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.
Doing the flush this way is excellent. I did this once with a minivan that I have and a couple times with my old Volvo 740. I would drain the pan and add clean tranny fluid then start the engine and pump out the dirty fluid. I pretty much do what you did , and once the fluid runs clean I then stop and check for fluid levels appropriately. I think I will check my 09 E350 Mercedes for the appropriate line and do as you did. Thanks , It just never crossed my mind to do this on my Benz as well
I never seen a similar professional handling and awareness while processing a job, thank you for the effort you spent on this video. I saw a (Al ain water bottle), please update your workshop location in the "about".
😂😂😂 my viewers keep surprising me with the things they catch in the video 😂😂 unfortunately im no longer offering commercial services for the time being ..
WOW!! Excellent video Sir! I looked all over youtube for days for a good through video how to do this. I'm doing this on my 2013 gl450 i think it should be exactly the same thanks again. only thing I don't have is a tool reader to get the temp to 113F degrees.
..for my 2013 Ml 350, I bought the MB2 scanner...about $120 on ebay...great tool to have. I get an annoying chk engine light every couple months for the gas filler return, evap line...but reads Temp. when I did this service.
I have the same vehicle. Can u pls share how did you attach the hose to the return oil cooler line? I am unable to force my fingers in that narrow space, to reach and attach a pipe to this line thanks,
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir follow that return line back (to front of vehicle) to radiator, you will see metal strap that holds this line in place. I took it off and was able to pull back return line enough to get hose on.
I did the same procedure, but instead of taking off the return line, I removed the torque converter screw and emptied the system. Worked very well. The only surprise was that the pan gasguette was a bit hard to fit, and it took some time to adjust it carefully. If gasquette is not fit properly the pan will leak ACF fluid....
@You Wish There is a window with the plastic cover, you will have to remove the plastic cover which is very easy. The window exposes the bottum part of the torque converter. On there is a small screw on the torque converter which is to be accessed through this window but the screw might not be alined so that once can see it. The method is to start start and shut of the engine in a number of trails and after a number of trail (for me 4 - 6 times) the screw will align so that you can access it....
And, 2013 ML 350 , I had NO drain Plug in my converter, ...I cranked it around several times looking...anyway, look no further, this is the best way to do the service. And please use Genuine Mercedes Fluid...Ya' saved a bundle by doing it yourself,
I found it useful to remove the valve body and clean the top thoroughly. It collects a lot of debris and will dirty the new fluid immediately. Also, remove and clean the solenoids onn the valve body.
There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts
If u only drain the oil pan+torque converter u will drain the full capacity if the gearbox minus one quart, so the valve body with all the plumbing and oil converter holds just less than one quart.
Great video! Thanks! The Canadian release of the W164 in 2006 had no transmission service interval, but after many shifting issues a service interval was added to models a few years later. The recommendation should have been brought backwards given that it is the same transmission, but it went into legal issues with cost of ownership instead of maintaining the vehicle so it would last.
Just had this done at the mechanic. Drained torque converter and lines,etc. Usef amsoil aignature aeries atf vs the stock atuff. New filter and gasket,etc. Used amsoil in the transfer case as well.
@@aimasira1989 But the sump has to have ATF or some liquid (up to the filter level) in order for this to work. Otherwise as soon as the fluid dips below the filter you'll be pushing air, leaving all the fluid below the filter just sitting there. Same for the torque converter... the air will evacuate everything up until the center of the doughnut (where the pump is situated). As soon as the liquid falls below the port for the pump you'll be pushing air. You're leaving 3-4 liters of old ATF in the system. Can you give a more detailed explaination on your experience evacuating 9 liters by blowing air through the transmission please? Thank you in advance
@@southriverco no you didnt understand. You will remove the sump and the filter, you will remove all oil that is possible and then you will do the rest. You can then remove the bolt on the side of the gearbox that goes to the oil cooler to blow air their and also blow air throught the small holes under the hydraulic module of the gearbox (if you are in the mood you can also remove the hydraulic module also and blow air on the holes under it) by doing that you will remove more oil. If you find the hole that goes towards the torque converter the you will push oil out of it
Oh, and one more question to add to my earlier comment, if you don't mind? My 2014 w212 transmission has stop/ start, and has an electric pump on the transmission which keeps the oil moving, even when the engine is switched of via Start / Stop. Its not a very difficult job to remove this pump ( 2 bolts ) and then rotate the engine until the TC drain stud becomes visible ..but I was wondering if it would be better just to leave the pump in-situ, and disconnect the coolant return pipe and drain from there, 2 litres X 2 Litres..is there any reason why this would not work ? And it would have the advantage of replacing ALL the trans fluid? Thanks for your input / advice, Jim,
TC drain will only drain the TC, however removing the return line will make sure all the old fluid from inside the valve body/TC/Cooler and cooler pipes is flushed out and not retuned into the pan .
So I bought a 550 2008 for my son. Got a diagnosis on it, and it was fine. Was told all it needs is a oil change, brought it to valvoline and ever since it's been running slow like the transmission isn't switching gears fast enough.
Usually a code scan should reveal any issue with the transmission, but common untrained mistakes like wrong fluid or improper level are things to be aware of
Hello, this is a good video, but I have a question, the vehicle must be horizontal, but in this case the pan is not horizontal, if the vehicle is horizontal, the pan is inclined. If your pan is horizontal the vehicle is not horizontal.. this hapend because the pan is not horizontal in the vehicle. Please I am confused.. thanks
Hello sir, I've some questions if you could answer will be appreciated. What is that oring you talked about? You said remember the oring? Over by the retaining line. When you took that return line off to flush torque converter u added a clear hose in one line, did you block the other end? In this video are you working on a glk350? Thank you for the video
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you so much for your reply. I will try to do it in my glk350(2015). Under the car looks pretty similar to Mine. Hopefully I will be able to do it by myself
The new updated pan works on the older 722.9 & MB recommends switching to that pan and the improved thicker filter but in certain models you still use the red fluid regardless of the pan. MB states to use red in my ML320 CDI but I am using the new pan, filter, and overflow.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIYthe adapter for filling the pan is much thiner hose than on a return line, do u know if that is the adapter difference? Cause would need the hose size for return line😂
Sorry for the “easier way” question here, but if I do not flush the torque converter, I don’t have the exact measurement of fluid that came out and I don’t have any special temperature tools, is there a way to refill my trans pan with the correct amount? Using gravity, a funnel and tube, and hoping for the over flow to do its job? I didn’t see the temp tool mentioned in your video.
Awesome vid. Used this procedure last night on my 2022 Sprinter. One question on the path of the fluid. I assume that if using this method flushes everything the fluid would need to get pumped from the sump, through the TC, then out the cooler line(left side) through the cooler, back in the return line(right side). Is that correct? Thanks
If you are doing this on a w211 E63, disconnect the return line under the front bumper instead of at the transmission. The hose is flexible there instead of a metal tube.
Maybe I missed it but what was the "secret" you mentioned (@ 5:15) about reusing the old pan bolts? Also is there a possible alternative easier to access return line on some models with 722.9 (at radiator perhaps) that could be used rather than the one on right side of trans? (I'm thinking my 06 e350 of course)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Ok thank you maybe I wasn't I line my pane gasket and that's reason was licking oil, I gonna trying to do it again , and one more time thank you !!!
Great video! Thanks. One question: is there a way to figure out ahead of time if I have the white or black overflow pipe? I am traveling to my daughter to do the work and would like to have all parts ahead of time. I have my build sheet. Does that tell me what overflow pipe/pan that i have?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the response. You reference using at Torx 14 for the return line removal. Did you mean 14mm triple square bit? None of the Torx sets come with a T14. Thanks again
So I've got to ask, why do you need to replace a rubber gasket like that? Unless it's cracked or leaking wouldn't it still function? I've reused similar gaskets in my dodges differentials.
I didn't realize until I received them, the bolts are aluminum! Have you had any issues breaking them off or being frozen in place do to corrosion from salt/urea de-icing efforts used on the roads in the winter?
Hi. Thank you for this awesome video! The only question i have is on the silicone grease. Do you apply it to the bottom side or also to the top and the sides?The reason i ask is that MB document says to ensure the pan and the transmission housing is free from oil and grease. Thank you!
@The Flying MechanicDIY Is line to disconnect from the transmission the oil cooler return line (outlet)? This line would run from the top of the transmission oil cooler to the transmission near the pan? I am looking for a way to verify the line. My 2012 c350 has a slightly different look. Thanks in advance for the help. And great video. Very helpful.
D-Day is Friday! Thank you for the TQ drain plug tip, I’ll take a look. You mention that with the flush you may encounter a thermostat control. Got that, no flow back until 80’c +/-. So, the box is filled with 5 litres of new fluid & we wait for the warm up!. Surely, the new fluid and the old are now mixing in the gearbox for 15 minutes before the thermostat opens. Now we have a mixed up load of fluid, old and new, because the TQ is still pumping. This bit is confusing me. If I don’t have a TQ drain plug, all the ‘old TQ’ fluid is going to mix with the new ‘before’ the thermostat opens. Please, can you explain. Sorry for all the questions, but this is pretty serious stuff and this is the only part I don’t get! Happy 2020, and thank you in advance for our answer. Kind regards. Mark.
I dont have a confirmed explanation, but from trans expert who is a friend, dont worry about the thermostat, just perform the procedure as in the video and u r good to go, fluid will not mix in any situation as long as the return line is disconnected
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks a million for all your support on the flush subject. I think, that as I have a very occassional input signal interruption (not failed) and I’ve driven another 1000 kms with the fault occuring only once, I’m going to take Electronic Control Unit off the main valve body & give all the solenoids & circuits surounding the plug (s) a proper clean up with a magnet & then put it back together again with another new Filter & Fresh Oil. If after that, the problem persists, I’ll send the ECU body away for repairs, as then I know exactly what is goign on. It’s worth the effort. The fault code continues to be Y3/8N1/8N2, but I’ve seen in various videos, magnetic debris can be causing signals to fluctuate. If I find any sort of this debris, it might be that simple to clean them up, after all, the transmission was & is still very clean. We see. Thanks again. Happy New Year Sir. Mark, Amsterdam.
I do not know but suspect my Sprinter has got a thermostat so I took it for a run to warm the oil up first and then the valve will be open just require to temp to drop to the measuring temp. This is the clearest instruction on youtube it is a pity that MB don't give out any information at all on their models. 'take to a dealer ' is just a device to rob owners of money
Good video but note: If your car has not been serviced and it’s on up in mileage I don’t recommend ever totally flushing and using all new oil…hence the stories about I got my fluid changed and now my car won’t go
I have been told that if you have a ‘mature’ car (134,00 miles) you should replace the filter, clean pan and magnets and new gasket but capture the original fluid and put back. Not exactly sure but in my lifetime experience it has been flush transmission fluid than change transmission. Many thanks for video.
Hi, I have water in the transmission after a flood. It is a 7G-DCT, similar to this. I have a doubt weather I should do the flush with the old filter since whatever fluid remains in the transmission is so contaminated with water. Any advice appreciated, thanks.
So 7G with clutch pack not torque converter ? Im not really familiar with that, but for any flush, start by dropping pan and replacing the filter, do not water long, the longer the water inside, the less chance of saving the transmission
Question to all you guys. How do you perform a job replacement like this if you don't have a hydraulic lifter at home?. I would love to do this myself but I only have the jacks that come with cars.
That is almost impossible pro, either a jack and four jack-stands to lift all 4 corners, or if it is an SUV with height control u can raise it all the way up and see if u can work there comfortably.
YES YES YES ive been looking all over I have a 04 SL500 and for some odd reason they said it takes blue I didnt believe it till now thank you so much man video is the best and so far the only lets get him 100000 views all. I do want to ask what is the cheapest blue fluid out there im in Chicago,IL if it helps thanks again dude
There is another method to determine fluid as well, look at the transmission pan from underneath, if it has circles only means red fluid, if it has oval shapes then blue fluid
I wrote u another comment, but youtube decided not to post it . But let me summarize it. There are 2 links in the video description, one to input ur VIN number to look for your car build info, if it has code A89 then blue fluid otherwise red. The other link will give you all available alternate fluids, For blue fluid look for 236.15 specs , for red fluid look for 236.14. Thanks for your comment
This is not The 7G Tronic MCT 722.9 Plus(Multi-Clutch Technology), (No torque convertor.). Ive seen dozens of the current video but none with the 722.9 plus transmissions . would be nice to find one ..... Great video By the way 👏👏👏👏👏👏🎩🎩off..
The 2019 Mercedes Sprinter V6 Diesel engine has the 7 speed with what look like two return lines, one that goes to the same spot on the left and right of the transmission. Are these both return lines? And should both be hooked up to the 1/2" hose for the flush?
The return is the right side. I no longer recommend this method cause its too hard for the average technician , a normal drain+torque converter drain should be sufficient .
Thank you for making this wonderful video. I am about to attempt this "power drain" to get the fluid out of the torque converter and I am wondering why you need to remove and fill in 2 liter increments. If you hooked compressed air to the fill pump then could you not refill the trans at the same rate that it is emptying? It seems to me that you could reach a steady state in=out with a compressor and a valve to control the airflow. Thank you!
What could be the reason on ML 350-2010, few times when putting into recerse, it will make a noise-and little stalking, car has 110kmiles, first heard like 5-10kmiles ago, is not always, once put of 10 times, ussually when leaving the parking after overnight parked. Thanks, in the process of changing oil...
I have the PDF document "AR27.55-P-0100B Flush out automatic transmission and torque converter 19.7.10" and it shows the return flow pipe on the left. The feed line is on the right. On your video the return was on the right. Is it any way to tell the difference so I can remove the correct line on the GLK350? (It has the 722.9). Thanks.
On the 722.9 it is always on the right side . U can look up the specific entry for ur car on the MB EPC and it will clearly label the right one as the return pipe ..
If the correct oil level is when it stops flowing out from the oil pan after final atf refill, why so much oil pouring out of the same place when unscrewing the bolt to drain old atf at the beggining of the video?
Cause u drain it with the car off and all the ATF has drained back from the torque converter and the oil cooler back into the sump, however when when u measure the ATF level u do it with the engine running, thus ATF is flowing into the converter, cooler and everything else
According to parts websites, my 2013 c250 sport has an ATF cooler. Can you elaborate on how i should modify the flushing procedure accordingly? I was planning on using an infrared thermometer so do i wait until the trans pan is 90C rather than 45C for the fluid adjustment? Also, are the return lines where they should be as you show in your video?
steven lam the return lines are the same for all 722.9 A thermometer is not accurate nor recommended at all. If during the flushing process u start the car and u dont get any fluid through the return line, then keep the engine running eventually fluid will flow after 90c . When u r done with flushing, let the transmission cool down to below 45c and start the level checking process.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I missed a step and did not add the silicone sealant and there is a little bit of dripping at the front of the trans pan. Is there an alternative without having to drain, and re-seat the trans pan?
steven lam, did any of the bolts give u hard time when u install them ! I doubt that u can install the pan not centered, so my guess is one of the bolts did not torque correctly, did u use new or the old bolts ? Maybe u wana try to re-torque the bolt nearest to the leak (dont exceed the figure in the video)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I notice that the gasket was not seated exactly in the original factory position. Maybe 1mm off but only at forward part of the trans pan. Everywhere else seems ok. Believe it or not i I torqued to 20N-m, and when i noticed leak i torqued the 2 bolts at the front of trans pan where the leak is to 28N-m but never felt the click as i was afraid of breaking the bolts. Can i apply silicone sealant where the slow leak is? I assume the leak would only happen when the car cools and parts contract rather than expand under heat,
I would of mention if the transmission has code A89 (Reduce Friction) and non code A89 (non-Friction). You can decoded the VIN# on the internet for free to find out. This will determine if your Transmission fluid use the Blue color (MB ATF 134 FE or MBZ Approval 236.15 (For A89)) or Red color (No A89). The part numbers are different for A89 and non A89 like the filter, Guide Tube, etc.
Do you need to have the car running? I just added until the fluid started coming out car was off but im not sure if I need to add more its like the gear shifting isnt perfect its slipping like if I want to add fluid now do I open the drain plug with car on to add?
Great video with lots of great detail! I have a 2011 E63 AMG w/80k miles with the wet clutch (no torque converter). I plan on replacing the transmission fluid. Do I need to do this procedure or just the typical drain, remove and clean pan/magnets/replace filter/overflow pipe/gasket and refill trans?
Not all cars have the TC plug, some cars have it but require special socket. But main reason, draining the TC will not flush the system 100%, there will be fluid left in the valve body, lines, coolers ..
I have a 2017 AMG C63S coupe, does this proceedure work for my car? The things im confused about is if my car has a torque convertor or not, and if so do i need to remove an aux tran oil pump & turn the crank with a wrench to reveal a drain plug to drain oil in the torque convertor. Also, on my car do i also need to remove a return line to flush out remaining fluid in the oil coolers or is that just for older models? I hope you will answer me. Thanks
if I drain the torque convertor and then refill system with recommended amount of oil will it be safe to cycle the engine on and off for the flushing operation? i.e. will the torque convertor be lubricated during the flush process?
Hi, I enjoyed watching your video tremendously! I’ve just picked up a 2012 Mercedes S350 blue TEC; would you know if this 7-speed transmission is equipped with a “Transmission Electrical connector/ adapter” that needs to be replaced when servicing the transmission?. The reason I ask is that I had to replace the transmission electrical connector on my E55 AMG when changing the transmission fluid in the past. ** Any reply or insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I believe the E55 has the 5 speed 722.6 unlike S350 which has the 7 speed 722.9 .. in both cases there is no requirement to replace the electrical connector if it is not leaking
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the prompt reply! My question is: do the 722.9 transmissions have the electrical connector? You might know because You serviced that transmission. My local Mercedes dealership couldn’t locate that connector in their catalog. The part person doesn’t think there’s one! Whereas I know the 722.6 transmission has one attached to it. ** I just want to have all the parts on hand ready before servicing the transmission. Thanks again!
Good video! I have 2 questions: When you unclip the return line, don't you need some plug or etc. in the transmission? There will be a hole in the transmission during the flushing process? And If I have a drain plug on the TC, would it be effective to drain the oil from there also, or it's totally useless because of the flushing? Thanks! :)
Yes There will be a hole, but its gona be like the other vent hole, no danger there. U can the TC drain, but this method will not only flush the TC, but will remove all the fluid from the complete circuit (valve body, coolers, lines)
I have a 2007 E350 Sport W211 with a 722.9 7 speed transmission. I've serviced everything on the car myself except the transmission which I had the Mercedes Dealership do a year ago. I can't seem to find the dealer port for the trans in the engine bay so i can check the level or the color. Please Help!
You forgot one thing, Where are you located so I can have you do it. Great video. Dam, i can't afford to ship my car to Jordan. The cost would be to much. lol
I have a 2012 cls63 26k km , had slight jerking on shifts especially on sport mode, dealer checked and it was black and burnt , but not much metal shaving they said and refused to change the oil they said they wont take the risk, so will i damage it if i changed it outside ? Will it get better ? Or worse? Thanks.
Important info is in the video description plus torque specs
Thanks for the video! Do we have to replace the return line oring? Is this better than draining torque converter? I cannot find the TC plug..need to turn with 27mm socket, right?
Thomas Hui not all MB have the TC plug, this is definitely a better method because it drains not only the TC but the cooler and all the return lines as well, mercedes had this method in their service manual for the earlier versions .
About the o-rings, i like to replace them, but u can inspect them and if u r car has low miles i think these would be fine to re use.
Thanks for the comment
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I removed 5L through the return line and pumped in 5L but the old fluid still did not turn to new..still better than just a pan drop.. Your procedure worked for my 16' GLE350. Thx
Thomas Hui , it probably did, its just hard to differentiate the new vs old fluid because of the dark color.
Thanks for watching
Hi there,thanks for a great video.
I have a question please, What would the symptoms be if you have old transmission fluid?
I drive a Ml63 2009 model. Current symptoms
1. Slight vibration on uphill at low revs 2000 rpm low speeds and most prominent when car as at operating temp 102 °C ,not as much when just started up eg. 60°< and the shifting is fine just a bit jurkey as soon as next gear is selected, high speeds gear shifting is much smoother.
I would appreciate it so much if you could give some feedback on this.
This video cured all my confusion, I made an appointment with dealer then realized there was no way in hell they would do all this as the tech could not answer a single question I asked. Thanks so much…
Flying mechanic "DIY"? I'd say Flying Mechanic PRO! Even FULL description of job, parts needed, & torque specs in description? Too good. This is the difference between someone who just works on cars & someone who loves cars. Thank you for caring enough to be good at what you do & for giving ppl like me a proper example of this job.
i wish all mechanics were professional like him.
Most comprehensive and easy-to-follow guide on a 722.9 service. Thank you!
Appreciate the detail of each steps. I flushed my transmission today for the first time at 169,000 for ML350 2010. Connecting clear hose to return line was painful, took me multiple attempts to attach half inch hose, and almost an hour! The entire task took me 4 hours but I was doing it for the first time. Car runs very smooth, no slips and or gear issue. I did use lifeguard transmission flush additive in the old oil before I started to put new oil and new filter. Thanks a lot!
I did mine unfortunate gears can't change noe
What hose size did u use for that return line?
Love this guy's attention to detail and instructions !! If only my airplane mechanics were this devoted.
😂😂😂😂 .. hope u r not an airliner
U have Airplanes ??? 😅😊
@@TECH-ur6xv Unfortunately yes. Working on them in one form or another as we speak. You start out with one and all is wonderful. Then something happens and maintenance goes on seemingly forever. Then some sort of deal amazement drops in your lap. Because you're looking for a deal of course. And then the same thing rehappens. The cycle repeats. So you end up with more.
I have gone through so many videos on UA-cam regarding ATF changing, I am sure this is the best and contain every information and helped make all of my doubts clear. Thanks a lot
Hi Kumar
Is this the same for a S350 2014 W222 transmission 7G 722..903???? Regards : John UK
AWESOME UNICORN SABINA A same for all 722.9 (except some AMG models with the wet clutch not a torque converter)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY my w205 c63 transmission has a wet clutch which cannot be drained correct? About how much fluid should transmission take just removing pan? Thanks!
kelvin sun between 4.5-5.5L
Thank you for this excellent video. I performed this service on my 2008 CL550, in my driveway, so I was not a quick as you. excellent results using AMSOIL transmission fluid. The most difficult operation was reinstalling the pan with the new gasket, took me a few tries to get the gasket to seal. Very sensitive to the light torque specs. If torqued to tight the gasket rolls and leaks. With 114,400 miles I believe this is the first transmission service on this Mercedes. Old fluid was black, new fluid and the CL550 purrs!
Just completed a transmission flush on my w209 clk500 75,000kms and x164 gl450 90,000kms. Thanks for the great video, your explanation made the job very easy. I did not have the motor medic fluid pump so I used a 1.5L fluid pump and it worked great.
Thank you for being a real technician and doing a proper job.. unfortunately nobody today wants to work like this and no customer wants to pay for a job like this. In America Atleast.
What do you think is fair price to pay for a job like this ?
@@darkvapor3302 my local MB dealer in NYC charges $775
Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.
Did your shudder come back?
You’re the only one in UA-cam making a transmission flush of Mercedes Car
Dunno if thats good or bad 🤣🤣
I was here a few weeks back with some turbine sensor issues in my 722.9 MB wanted to fit a new ECU Unit, but in the end, I drained the oil, drained the TQ (I found the plug) and removed the complete Matrix with attached ECU Control Unit. Using another channel here on YT, I took the ECU Control Unit off the valve body, drained and carefully cleaned that up, and then cleaned the actual ECU Control Body, including removing all 8 Solenoids and the gear shift selector. Loads of very very fine particles of Aluminium or Steel dust everywhere, just enough to cause tracking across the plugs where they are joined onto the foil circuit boards, causing the fault readings on the box (and him getting stuck in 3rd or 7th or ?. It took 6 hours including a total flush of the system and guess what, it's as good as new. 1000 kms later, still perfect!...... When you change the fluid in a 722.9, you also need to clean the ECU Control Unit as well, because you'd be amazed how much micro debrits gets left in there!........ it's all here on YT, and it's not that bad a job after all. Thanks for the tips. I will change the oil again in 3 years including the TQ. Nice to have found the plug!
Believe this aswel sensors must pick up metal after 5 years need good clean but trying to find garage to do it, what was problems you was having?
Real nice and detailed. Worked for my 2014 GL450. Note that there is a thermostat bypass in the cooler lines, so you won’t be able to drain the cooler with this method. Thanks,
In the description it is mentioned that we can still do this exact process with or without additional cooler.. I have 7g PLUS but you are saying no oil will come out of line until 90C??
What a great video, especially the length you went to in the description. Well done, wish you were in Australia!
Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.
Wh is the hose size u will need for that return line?thx
Very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to put quality information out for us to learn from and view!! A+++++ Rating!!
Doing the flush this way is excellent. I did this once with a minivan that I have and a couple times with my old Volvo 740. I would drain the pan and add clean tranny fluid then start the engine and pump out the dirty fluid. I pretty much do what you did , and once the fluid runs clean I then stop and check for fluid levels appropriately. I think I will check my 09 E350 Mercedes for the appropriate line and do as you did. Thanks , It just never crossed my mind to do this on my Benz as well
This is the best video for this transmission. Thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and all the knowledge you have shared. It is very much appreciated!
Best informative video on transmission fluid replacement!!!
Fantastic video...Thank you so much for taking the time to show us how to do this!
I never seen a similar professional handling and awareness while processing a job, thank you for the effort you spent on this video.
I saw a (Al ain water bottle), please update your workshop location in the "about".
😂😂😂 my viewers keep surprising me with the things they catch in the video 😂😂 unfortunately im no longer offering commercial services for the time being ..
Excellent video. Very thorough. I Will definitely be using this information. The best I have seen.
Thanks for the video, did eventually exactly the same on a slk 55 amg getting all old fluid out. Shifts like a dream again.
Thanks for the video and specifying the temp for the green overflow. VEry helpful!
WOW!! Excellent video Sir! I looked all over youtube for days for a good through video how to do this. I'm doing this on my 2013 gl450 i think it should be exactly the same thanks again. only thing I don't have is a tool reader to get the temp to 113F degrees.
..for my 2013 Ml 350, I bought the MB2 scanner...about $120 on ebay...great tool to have. I get an annoying chk engine light every couple months for the gas filler return, evap line...but reads Temp. when I did this service.
Best video for ATF flush.
I got 2014 GL450. Worked flawlessly. Thank you for all details fro do the job
I have the same vehicle. Can u pls share how did you attach the hose to the return oil cooler line? I am unable to force my fingers in that narrow space, to reach and attach a pipe to this line thanks,
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir follow that return line back (to front of vehicle) to radiator, you will see metal strap that holds this line in place. I took it off and was able to pull back return line enough to get hose on.
@@BAFiusRUS Thanks. Do I also need to plug the hole where the return line connects to the transmission (passenger side on American vehicle)?
@@NehaSinghal-ig8ir no I didn’t, nothing comes out of there
@@BAFiusRUS your tips were so helpful and precise. Thanks again!
You sound like a very knowledgeable mechanic 👍
I did the same procedure, but instead of taking off the return line, I removed the torque converter screw and emptied the system. Worked very well. The only surprise was that the pan gasguette was a bit hard to fit, and it took some time to adjust it carefully. If gasquette is not fit properly the pan will leak ACF fluid....
@You Wish There is a window with the plastic cover, you will have to remove the plastic cover which is very easy. The window exposes the bottum part of the torque converter. On there is a small screw on the torque converter which is to be accessed through this window but the screw might not be alined so that once can see it. The method is to start start and shut of the engine in a number of trails and after a number of trail (for me 4 - 6 times) the screw will align so that you can access it....
FCP Euro is a excellent source for all your Mercedes needs. Also offer lifetime warranty on all parts.
Thx you very much sir, you have explained process perfectly and made it very easy for me to understand thank you very much
"Stop thinking like a teenage girl!"....Very good video...Thanks!
And, 2013 ML 350 , I had NO drain Plug in my converter, ...I cranked it around several times looking...anyway, look no further, this is the best way to do the service. And please use Genuine Mercedes Fluid...Ya' saved a bundle by doing it yourself,
I found it useful to remove the valve body and clean the top thoroughly. It collects a lot of debris and will dirty the new fluid immediately. Also, remove and clean the solenoids onn the valve body.
Great video simple straight forward (layman terms) explanation on how to do this job right and well thank you ;-)
A really good video. Well narrated and explained. Thanks for doing this.
There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts
If u only drain the oil pan+torque converter u will drain the full capacity if the gearbox minus one quart, so the valve body with all the plumbing and oil converter holds just less than one quart.
Great video! Thanks! The Canadian release of the W164 in 2006 had no transmission service interval, but after many shifting issues a service interval was added to models a few years later. The recommendation should have been brought backwards given that it is the same transmission, but it went into legal issues with cost of ownership instead of maintaining the vehicle so it would last.
Well explained and easy to follow !
Just had this done at the mechanic. Drained torque converter and lines,etc. Usef amsoil aignature aeries atf vs the stock atuff. New filter and gasket,etc. Used amsoil in the transfer case as well.
Good tip, with the return line.
You can do it also by blowing air inside the transmission holes 1-2 bar max. You can remove 9 liters that way
Are you speaking generalities or about the 722.9 specifically? Please cite your source or (if this is from personal experience, please clarify.
@@southriverco personal experience working on cars with 722.9 and the older 722.6
@@aimasira1989 But the sump has to have ATF or some liquid (up to the filter level) in order for this to work. Otherwise as soon as the fluid dips below the filter you'll be pushing air, leaving all the fluid below the filter just sitting there. Same for the torque converter... the air will evacuate everything up until the center of the doughnut (where the pump is situated). As soon as the liquid falls below the port for the pump you'll be pushing air. You're leaving 3-4 liters of old ATF in the system. Can you give a more detailed explaination on your experience evacuating 9 liters by blowing air through the transmission please? Thank you in advance
@@southriverco no you didnt understand.
You will remove the sump and the filter, you will remove all oil that is possible and then you will do the rest.
You can then remove the bolt on the side of the gearbox that goes to the oil cooler to blow air their and also blow air throught the small holes under the hydraulic module of the gearbox (if you are in the mood you can also remove the hydraulic module also and blow air on the holes under it) by doing that you will remove more oil. If you find the hole that goes towards the torque converter the you will push oil out of it
@@aimasira1989 Thank you for this. I understand where you are coming from now.
Oh, and one more question to add to my earlier comment, if you don't mind? My 2014 w212 transmission has stop/ start, and has an electric pump on the transmission which keeps the oil moving, even when the engine is switched of via Start / Stop. Its not a very difficult job to remove this pump ( 2 bolts ) and then rotate the engine until the TC drain stud becomes visible ..but I was wondering if it would be better just to leave the pump in-situ, and disconnect the coolant return pipe and drain from there, 2 litres X 2 Litres..is there any reason why this would not work ? And it would have the advantage of replacing ALL the trans fluid? Thanks for your input / advice,
Jim,
TC drain will only drain the TC, however removing the return line will make sure all the old fluid from inside the valve body/TC/Cooler and cooler pipes is flushed out and not retuned into the pan .
He has an accent, he knows his stuff😊
Very informative, well paced, and engaging video. Thanks I'm now subscribed
This is the best MB tranny tutorial on YT.................
So I bought a 550 2008 for my son. Got a diagnosis on it, and it was fine. Was told all it needs is a oil change, brought it to valvoline and ever since it's been running slow like the transmission isn't switching gears fast enough.
Engine oil or transmission ATF ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Atf
Do you think it could be something as simple as fluid or something more serious.
Usually a code scan should reveal any issue with the transmission, but common untrained mistakes like wrong fluid or improper level are things to be aware of
Excellent tutorial
Great Video! I'll be following this video to replace my ML400 (68K) tranny Fluid within next couple of weeks.
Hello, this is a good video, but I have a question, the vehicle must be horizontal, but in this case the pan is not horizontal, if the vehicle is horizontal, the pan is inclined. If your pan is horizontal the vehicle is not horizontal.. this hapend because the pan is not horizontal in the vehicle. Please I am confused.. thanks
The vehicle need to be horizontal according to the service manual .. in all cases, a slight incline does not affect the fluid level that much
Thanks
Hello sir, I've some questions if you could answer will be appreciated. What is that oring you talked about? You said remember the oring? Over by the retaining line. When you took that return line off to flush torque converter u added a clear hose in one line, did you block the other end? In this video are you working on a glk350? Thank you for the video
Its a GL500, you dont need to block the other end of the return line, the o-ring is located at the tip of that return line .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you so much for your reply. I will try to do it in my glk350(2015). Under the car looks pretty similar to Mine. Hopefully I will be able to do it by myself
Great video guy, lots of good information! Thanks!👍👏👏👏
The new updated pan works on the older 722.9 & MB recommends switching to that pan and the improved thicker filter but in certain models you still use the red fluid regardless of the pan.
MB states to use red in my ML320 CDI but I am using the new pan, filter, and overflow.
All you need to know is described in the video and the description.
I didn't ask a question I just made a statement but thanks@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
How thick was the silicone hose for the return line? About as thick as the silicone hose for fill line?
Its the same hose
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIYthe adapter for filling the pan is much thiner hose than on a return line, do u know if that is the adapter difference? Cause would need the hose size for return line😂
hi.. does the engine have to be running to measure the oil level? should it be turned off when it reaches 45 degrees thanks.
Keep it running
Sorry for the “easier way” question here, but if I do not flush the torque converter, I don’t have the exact measurement of fluid that came out and I don’t have any special temperature tools, is there a way to refill my trans pan with the correct amount? Using gravity, a funnel and tube, and hoping for the over flow to do its job?
I didn’t see the temp tool mentioned in your video.
Excellent job. Very well done!
Awesome vid. Used this procedure last night on my 2022 Sprinter. One question on the path of the fluid. I assume that if using this method flushes everything the fluid would need to get pumped from the sump, through the TC, then out the cooler line(left side) through the cooler, back in the return line(right side). Is that correct? Thanks
Yes
Is there a risk to pump up air inside the gearbox when the oil runs out of the pump? Will thar be dangeous for the gearbox to have air inside?
If you are doing this on a w211 E63, disconnect the return line under the front bumper instead of at the transmission. The hose is flexible there instead of a metal tube.
Maybe I missed it but what was the "secret" you mentioned (@ 5:15) about reusing the old pan bolts? Also is there a possible alternative easier to access return line on some models with 722.9 (at radiator perhaps) that could be used rather than the one on right side of trans? (I'm thinking my 06 e350 of course)
Michael S u gota read the video description .. as well, cant tell for ur car, but it should be easier at the side of the transmission
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Are you referring to the ATF return line o-rings (2) 0199975845 as the 'secret' o-rings?
AeroRamer .. yes
So the pan gasket no need any glue to getting attached?
Nothing ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Ok thank you maybe I wasn't I line my pane gasket and that's reason was licking oil, I gonna trying to do it again , and one more time thank you !!!
Great video! Thanks. One question: is there a way to figure out ahead of time if I have the white or black overflow pipe? I am traveling to my daughter to do the work and would like to have all parts ahead of time. I have my build sheet. Does that tell me what overflow pipe/pan that i have?
The best way is to get the part numbers from the mercedes benz parts catalogue, u can call a dealer or find it online.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the response. You reference using at Torx 14 for the return line removal. Did you mean 14mm triple square bit? None of the Torx sets come with a T14.
Thanks again
Greg Dickinson, this bolt came in different from car to another and between years.
But in this car it was an E14 size (inverted torx)
So I've got to ask, why do you need to replace a rubber gasket like that? Unless it's cracked or leaking wouldn't it still function? I've reused similar gaskets in my dodges differentials.
U cannot guarantee it wont fail after u re-torque it , and u cant guarantee it will serve another 50k without failing
I didn't realize until I received them, the bolts are aluminum! Have you had any issues breaking them off or being frozen in place do to corrosion from salt/urea de-icing efforts used on the roads in the winter?
Never had an issue with them
The Flying MechanicDIY is located in Dubai. No icy roads there! :-P
😮broke 2 after installing, the ft/lbs is too much for them, thanks is broke outside and eqsy to take out.
Hi. Thank you for this awesome video! The only question i have is on the silicone grease. Do you apply it to the bottom side or also to the top and the sides?The reason i ask is that MB document says to ensure the pan and the transmission housing is free from oil and grease. Thank you!
I apply it all around, in such a small amount that it wouldnt cause any issue, its a personal choice, things will be 100% ok without it .
@The Flying MechanicDIY Is line to disconnect from the transmission the oil cooler return line (outlet)? This line would run from the top of the transmission oil cooler to the transmission near the pan? I am looking for a way to verify the line. My 2012 c350 has a slightly different look. Thanks in advance for the help. And great video. Very helpful.
D-Day is Friday! Thank you for the TQ drain plug tip, I’ll take a look. You mention that with the flush you may encounter a thermostat control. Got that, no flow back until 80’c +/-. So, the box is filled with 5 litres of new fluid & we wait for the warm up!. Surely, the new fluid and the old are now mixing in the gearbox for 15 minutes before the thermostat opens. Now we have a mixed up load of fluid, old and new, because the TQ is still pumping. This bit is confusing me. If I don’t have a TQ drain plug, all the ‘old TQ’ fluid is going to mix with the new ‘before’ the thermostat opens. Please, can you explain. Sorry for all the questions, but this is pretty serious stuff and this is the only part I don’t get! Happy 2020, and thank you in advance for our answer. Kind regards. Mark.
I dont have a confirmed explanation, but from trans expert who is a friend, dont worry about the thermostat, just perform the procedure as in the video and u r good to go, fluid will not mix in any situation as long as the return line is disconnected
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks a million for all your support on the flush subject. I think, that as I have a very occassional input signal interruption (not failed) and I’ve driven another 1000 kms with the fault occuring only once, I’m going to take Electronic Control Unit off the main valve body & give all the solenoids & circuits surounding the plug (s) a proper clean up with a magnet & then put it back together again with another new Filter & Fresh Oil. If after that, the problem persists, I’ll send the ECU body away for repairs, as then I know exactly what is goign on. It’s worth the effort. The fault code continues to be Y3/8N1/8N2, but I’ve seen in various videos, magnetic debris can be causing signals to fluctuate. If I find any sort of this debris, it might be that simple to clean them up, after all, the transmission was & is still very clean. We see. Thanks again. Happy New Year Sir. Mark, Amsterdam.
I do not know but suspect my Sprinter has got a thermostat so I took it for a run to warm the oil up first and then the valve will be open just require to temp to drop to the measuring temp. This is the clearest instruction on youtube it is a pity that MB don't give out any information at all on their models. 'take to a dealer ' is just a device to rob owners of money
Good video but note: If your car has not been serviced and it’s on up in mileage I don’t recommend ever totally flushing and using all new oil…hence the stories about I got my fluid changed and now my car won’t go
I have been told that if you have a ‘mature’ car (134,00 miles) you should replace the filter, clean pan and magnets and new gasket but capture the original fluid and put back. Not exactly sure but in my lifetime experience it has been flush transmission fluid than change transmission.
Many thanks for video.
Why can’t you change the Transmission fluid if you’re vehicle has high mileage?
Hi, I have water in the transmission after a flood. It is a 7G-DCT, similar to this. I have a doubt weather I should do the flush with the old filter since whatever fluid remains in the transmission is so contaminated with water. Any advice appreciated, thanks.
So 7G with clutch pack not torque converter ? Im not really familiar with that, but for any flush, start by dropping pan and replacing the filter, do not water long, the longer the water inside, the less chance of saving the transmission
Question to all you guys. How do you perform a job replacement like this if you don't have a hydraulic lifter at home?. I would love to do this myself but I only have the jacks that come with cars.
That is almost impossible pro, either a jack and four jack-stands to lift all 4 corners, or if it is an SUV with height control u can raise it all the way up and see if u can work there comfortably.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY😅it is possible but much more difficult, and taking much longer 😂
🤔🤔🤔 Why didn’t fluid come back out when you had he drain plug out?
This is an adjustment plug, fluid will not come out unless it is at or above the proper level ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY 🤔🤔 Witchraft!!!!
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Can you tell me more about this?
@@Omardottcom what would u like to know, i have all the info laid down in the video description
YES YES YES ive been looking all over I have a 04 SL500 and for some odd reason they said it takes blue I didnt believe it till now thank you so much man video is the best and so far the only lets get him 100000 views all. I do want to ask what is the cheapest blue fluid out there im in Chicago,IL if it helps thanks again dude
There is another method to determine fluid as well, look at the transmission pan from underneath, if it has circles only means red fluid, if it has oval shapes then blue fluid
I wrote u another comment, but youtube decided not to post it .
But let me summarize it.
There are 2 links in the video description, one to input ur VIN number to look for your car build info, if it has code A89 then blue fluid otherwise red.
The other link will give you all available alternate fluids, For blue fluid look for 236.15 specs , for red fluid look for 236.14.
Thanks for your comment
This is not The 7G Tronic MCT 722.9 Plus(Multi-Clutch Technology), (No torque convertor.).
Ive seen dozens of the current video but none with the 722.9 plus transmissions .
would be nice to find one .....
Great video By the way 👏👏👏👏👏👏🎩🎩off..
The 2019 Mercedes Sprinter V6 Diesel engine has the 7 speed with what look like two return lines, one that goes to the same spot on the left and right of the transmission. Are these both return lines? And should both be hooked up to the 1/2" hose for the flush?
The return is the right side.
I no longer recommend this method cause its too hard for the average technician , a normal drain+torque converter drain should be sufficient .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY And how many liters will this type of drain change?
@@chasealstott1 just over 8L
Thank you for making this wonderful video. I am about to attempt this "power drain" to get the fluid out of the torque converter and I am wondering why you need to remove and fill in 2 liter increments. If you hooked compressed air to the fill pump then could you not refill the trans at the same rate that it is emptying? It seems to me that you could reach a steady state in=out with a compressor and a valve to control the airflow. Thank you!
When draining the transmission oil, do I need to warm up the car to a certain degree (warm engine)? please enlighten :)
For draining, NO ..
Wow man...that's how to do a youtube car maintenance video...10/10. Are you based in the UK? I want you to look after my Mercedes.
Thanks for the comment man, unfortunately locTed in Dubai .. cheers
What could be the reason on ML 350-2010, few times when putting into recerse, it will make a noise-and little stalking, car has 110kmiles, first heard like 5-10kmiles ago, is not always, once put of 10 times, ussually when leaving the parking after overnight parked. Thanks, in the process of changing oil...
I have the PDF document "AR27.55-P-0100B Flush out automatic transmission and torque converter 19.7.10" and it shows the return flow pipe on the left. The feed line is on the right. On your video the return was on the right. Is it any way to tell the difference so I can remove the correct line on the GLK350? (It has the 722.9). Thanks.
On the 722.9 it is always on the right side .
U can look up the specific entry for ur car on the MB EPC and it will clearly label the right one as the return pipe ..
If the correct oil level is when it stops flowing out from the oil pan after final atf refill, why so much oil pouring out of the same place when unscrewing the bolt to drain old atf at the beggining of the video?
Cause u drain it with the car off and all the ATF has drained back from the torque converter and the oil cooler back into the sump, however when when u measure the ATF level u do it with the engine running, thus ATF is flowing into the converter, cooler and everything else
According to parts websites, my 2013 c250 sport has an ATF cooler. Can you elaborate on how i should modify the flushing procedure accordingly? I was planning on using an infrared thermometer so do i wait until the trans pan is 90C rather than 45C for the fluid adjustment? Also, are the return lines where they should be as you show in your video?
steven lam the return lines are the same for all 722.9
A thermometer is not accurate nor recommended at all.
If during the flushing process u start the car and u dont get any fluid through the return line, then keep the engine running eventually fluid will flow after 90c .
When u r done with flushing, let the transmission cool down to below 45c and start the level checking process.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I missed a step and did not add the silicone sealant and there is a little bit of dripping at the front of the trans pan. Is there an alternative without having to drain, and re-seat the trans pan?
steven lam, did any of the bolts give u hard time when u install them ! I doubt that u can install the pan not centered, so my guess is one of the bolts did not torque correctly, did u use new or the old bolts ? Maybe u wana try to re-torque the bolt nearest to the leak (dont exceed the figure in the video)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I notice that the gasket was not seated exactly in the original factory position. Maybe 1mm off but only at forward part of the trans pan. Everywhere else seems ok. Believe it or not i I torqued to 20N-m, and when i noticed leak i torqued the 2 bolts at the front of trans pan where the leak is to 28N-m but never felt the click as i was afraid of breaking the bolts. Can i apply silicone sealant where the slow leak is? I assume the leak would only happen when the car cools and parts contract rather than expand under heat,
steven lam, silicone sealant will not solve the issue .. watch out not to break the bolts inside the transmission housing
Well, how to check the trans fluid temperature without fancy a scan tool ? Can i update red fluid with old pan to blue fluid with new pan?
U cant switch fluids, u can try to find a cheap generic OBD tool that reads transmission data
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
My odb scan tool read trans temp in the 4 digits number.
Do you recommend to flush my 2015 s63 with 23k miles with changing the filter as well or just to change the fluid without opening the oil pan?
23k leave it alone
I would of mention if the transmission has code A89 (Reduce Friction) and non code A89 (non-Friction). You can decoded the VIN# on the internet for free to find out. This will determine if your Transmission fluid use the Blue color (MB ATF 134 FE or MBZ Approval 236.15 (For A89)) or Red color (No A89). The part numbers are different for A89 and non A89 like the filter, Guide Tube, etc.
Its all in video description, including the official MB vin decoder
Do you need to have the car running? I just added until the fluid started coming out car was off but im not sure if I need to add more its like the gear shifting isnt perfect its slipping like if I want to add fluid now do I open the drain plug with car on to add?
Great video with lots of great detail! I have a 2011 E63 AMG w/80k miles with the wet clutch (no torque converter). I plan on replacing the transmission fluid. Do I need to do this procedure or just the typical drain, remove and clean pan/magnets/replace filter/overflow pipe/gasket and refill trans?
The new pan bolts are very very light aluminum , to stop corrosion. I suspect alloy for price and the real reason to change them is fatigue.
Great explanation, and thank you.
Thank you for the video. Can you tell us what year and a model you are working on in this video please?
2012 GL500
Just trying to understand why not to drain the torque converter, instead of going through all these work?
Not all cars have the TC plug, some cars have it but require special socket.
But main reason, draining the TC will not flush the system 100%, there will be fluid left in the valve body, lines, coolers ..
I have a 2017 AMG C63S coupe, does this proceedure work for my car? The things im confused about is if my car has a torque convertor or not, and if so do i need to remove an aux tran oil pump & turn the crank with a wrench to reveal a drain plug to drain oil in the torque convertor. Also, on my car do i also need to remove a return line to flush out remaining fluid in the oil coolers or is that just for older models? I hope you will answer me. Thanks
adaptor on return line for hose?
No adapter .. 10-12mm ID hose
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY that is what I thought you did... tx
One of the pan clamps is different from the other 5. It is bigger and has a hole in it. Where does this one go? What is the hole for?
Front left ..
if I drain the torque convertor and then refill system with recommended amount of oil will it be safe to cycle the engine on and off for the flushing operation? i.e. will the torque convertor be lubricated during the flush process?
Yes
Do I need to shift it through park neutral drive when waiting for fluid to warm up?
Hi,
I enjoyed watching your video tremendously!
I’ve just picked up a 2012 Mercedes S350 blue TEC; would you know if this 7-speed transmission is equipped with a “Transmission Electrical connector/ adapter” that needs to be replaced when servicing the transmission?.
The reason I ask is that I had to replace the transmission electrical connector on my E55 AMG when changing the transmission fluid in the past.
** Any reply or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I believe the E55 has the 5 speed 722.6 unlike S350 which has the 7 speed 722.9 .. in both cases there is no requirement to replace the electrical connector if it is not leaking
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
Thanks for the prompt reply!
My question is: do the 722.9 transmissions have the electrical connector?
You might know because You serviced that transmission. My local Mercedes dealership couldn’t locate that connector in their catalog. The part person doesn’t think there’s one!
Whereas I know the 722.6 transmission has one attached to it.
** I just want to have all the parts on hand ready before servicing the transmission.
Thanks again!
@@tristant8340 it does have a connector attached to the conductor plate/TCM .. so its not sold separate for servicing
Good video! I have 2 questions: When you unclip the return line, don't you need some plug or etc. in the transmission? There will be a hole in the transmission during the flushing process? And If I have a drain plug on the TC, would it be effective to drain the oil from there also, or it's totally useless because of the flushing? Thanks! :)
Yes There will be a hole, but its gona be like the other vent hole, no danger there.
U can the TC drain, but this method will not only flush the TC, but will remove all the fluid from the complete circuit (valve body, coolers, lines)
I have a 2007 E350 Sport W211 with a 722.9 7 speed transmission. I've serviced everything on the car myself except the transmission which I had the Mercedes Dealership do a year ago. I can't seem to find the dealer port for the trans in the engine bay so i can check the level or the color. Please Help!
There is NO access to check fluid from the engine compartment ..
You forgot one thing, Where are you located so I can have you do it. Great video. Dam, i can't afford to ship my car to Jordan. The cost would be to much. lol
Thanks man .. if u r not located within Dubai or Jordan ship it over and will have done for free 🤣 just kidding .. cheers
I have a 2012 cls63 26k km , had slight jerking on shifts especially on sport mode, dealer checked and it was black and burnt , but not much metal shaving they said and refused to change the oil they said they wont take the risk, so will i damage it if i changed it outside ? Will it get better ? Or worse? Thanks.