Keep up the good work! This is (to my knowledge) the only detailed disassembly and rebuild video of this vehicle. It's a great service to folks like me that are doing the same thing, and need guidance. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, you are right about the rebuild of this vehicle. I have seen a lot of other videos out there but none very complete or detailed. My goal is to provide real information that can't be found anywhere else. It is great to know that people who need guidance are getting it from my videos. Keep watching many more coming.
Some really good information here, I think the real time makes a huge difference when you are trying to put information across, although I don't think there are many people with brake drum lathes out there, I did like the idea of using the vibration damper around the drum. I usually take quite a heavy first cut to get under the glazing which is normally found in brake drums, I find I take less out that way. I also find that the best lube for adjusting screw /pivots is Copper grease as it does not tend to migrate out as much as oil, but this is on a handbrake drum, so it should not get as hot,(unless the user leaves the handbrake on when driving). Very many thanks for posting.
Being just an emergency brake drum it didn't have any glazing on it. Gave it a quick sandblast also to get rid of the rust. Just a couple light cuts to get a true surface. Thanks for commenting and being a continued supporter
Enjoying the series! It's cool to see how well the old stuff was built. I wish we still used it today. I like the driveline brake...!! In your opinion, would it be worth considering to install on my 1991 YJ which currently doesn't have one....? I appreciate receiving your responses...!
It would be tough to put an emergency brake on your 91 YJ, at the transfer case. Easy to put one on the early transfer cases but not so easy on the newer units. Glad you are enjoying the series and keep watching for more videos.
Thanks for this awesome video Brian. I wanted to ask a question about the rear flange. My case did not have a brake on it when I got my Jeep. I'm rebuilding the case with the brake. I have two companion flanges for the rear output - the one that came off the case with no brake, which is shorter and has a smooth shaft, and one that came with the e-brake parts kit that is taller and has a groove on the shaft. Does the taller one go on the case, or will it pinch the speedometer gear?
I have developed a complete line of lubricants suitable for these older vehicles. If you would like I can send you a list of items. Email directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you the information. Brian
Hi George, I recently started using SPI epoxy primer. It comes in black, gray, white, and even red oxide if you are doing a restoration and want to use the original color primer. You have to use it carefully and pay very close attention to the temperature you spray at. If you can't keep 65 degrees don't spray it. Otherwise it is a great epoxy and sprays perfectly. I use a 1.5 tip on my gun for the epoxy. Just search SPI epoxy and you should find it.
When I tightened the final nut by the e-brake drum to 120 foot pounds, the system locks up and won't turn. I believe I don't have the right thickness of shims and have compressed the bearing. Does it mean my shims are too thick or not think enough?
Keep up the good work! This is (to my knowledge) the only detailed disassembly and rebuild video of this vehicle. It's a great service to folks like me that are doing the same thing, and need guidance. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, you are right about the rebuild of this vehicle. I have seen a lot of other videos out there but none very complete or detailed. My goal is to provide real information that can't be found anywhere else. It is great to know that people who need guidance are getting it from my videos. Keep watching many more coming.
Some really good information here, I think the real time makes a huge difference when you are trying to put information across, although I don't think there are many people with brake drum lathes out there, I did like the idea of using the vibration damper around the drum. I usually take quite a heavy first cut to get under the glazing which is normally found in brake drums, I find I take less out that way. I also find that the best lube for adjusting screw /pivots is Copper grease as it does not tend to migrate out as much as oil, but this is on a handbrake drum, so it should not get as hot,(unless the user leaves the handbrake on when driving). Very many thanks for posting.
Being just an emergency brake drum it didn't have any glazing on it. Gave it a quick sandblast also to get rid of the rust. Just a couple light cuts to get a true surface. Thanks for commenting and being a continued supporter
Great video. Really helped me with my rebuild. I'll be contacting you for the fluids.
Enjoying the series! It's cool to see how well the old stuff was built. I wish we still used it today. I like the driveline brake...!! In your opinion, would it be worth considering to install on my 1991 YJ which currently doesn't have one....? I appreciate receiving your responses...!
It would be tough to put an emergency brake on your 91 YJ, at the transfer case. Easy to put one on the early transfer cases but not so easy on the newer units. Glad you are enjoying the series and keep watching for more videos.
Thanks for this awesome video Brian. I wanted to ask a question about the rear flange. My case did not have a brake on it when I got my Jeep. I'm rebuilding the case with the brake. I have two companion flanges for the rear output - the one that came off the case with no brake, which is shorter and has a smooth shaft, and one that came with the e-brake parts kit that is taller and has a groove on the shaft. Does the taller one go on the case, or will it pinch the speedometer gear?
Excellent video and helped me rebuild my t90. Could you tell me what the oil do you use in the transmission and transfer case?
I have developed a complete line of lubricants suitable for these older vehicles. If you would like I can send you a list of items. Email directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you the information.
Brian
So I see you added grease to the felt but what if the felt gets in between the seal and cause it to leak what do you do to fix this issue
Hi Brian,
Do you favor any particular epoxy primer? I agree with the other comments regarding the detail of the videos, very informative.
Hi George, I recently started using SPI epoxy primer. It comes in black, gray, white, and even red oxide if you are doing a restoration and want to use the original color primer. You have to use it carefully and pay very close attention to the temperature you spray at. If you can't keep 65 degrees don't spray it. Otherwise it is a great epoxy and sprays perfectly. I use a 1.5 tip on my gun for the epoxy. Just search SPI epoxy and you should find it.
When I tightened the final nut by the e-brake drum to 120 foot pounds, the system locks up and won't turn. I believe I don't have the right thickness of shims and have compressed the bearing. Does it mean my shims are too thick or not think enough?
you need to add more shims
Yes can you send me a new lube product slip and prices I understand you're not with PayPal and I agree with you on that one
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a current lube sheet