Willys CJ3A Restoration, steering gear disassmembly and inspection
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2016
- In this video I am going to disassemble the steering gear and inspect for worn parts and try to figure out why the steering was so hard in this vehicle.
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Great videos and great insight. Very helpful.
Great channel and great stuff. I’m working on a 1959 JC5 with a broken steer box side plate.
Years ago i had a 49 studebaker pickup with a similar steering gear . pins on sector shaft were badly worn . I ground off ends of pins , drove them out of sector shaft and rotated 90 degrees . pressed back in and welded the ends . Worked pretty well .
Thanks for the nice video! I think my 2A has a 2A steering column on a 3A steering box. The box does not have the horn wire tube, just a hole. I sealed the hole and rebuilt the box, and so far so good. It's kind of a FrankenJeep.
sometimes you just have to work with what you have to keep things rolling. Keep watching for more videos and thanks for being a continued supporter.
Man I love these videos !
Mayor Fuglycool
thanks for the support. Spread the word, I am always trying to expand and improve the channel.
@@metalshaperJeep GREAT VIDEOS!
I am enjoying your shows. Jan and I are purchasing a 46 Willys Jeep that hasn't run in 10 years. Through your shows we're feeling comfortable on most of what needs to be done. Have you done a show on the engine rebuild or do you send it out? Thoughts? Our goal is to make this perfect, or as perfect as we can and then pass it down through the kids and grandkids. Thanks again for your shows. Sincerely, Ron and Jan
hello Ron and Jan, hope the 46 you are buying is in good shape. I have done a lot of engines lately but have not made a video yet, maybe on the next engine. Keep following along and you will be able to make your jeep as perfect as you want it. Thanks for watching and the positive comment.
Brian
I like your teaching technique. Would like to see rebuild of a L head 134 motor. Thanks
Great video. It's helping me greatly with my 1968 CJ5 restoration. Where do you order you steering parts? Or just good American parts in general. Thx
Dave, try Pete Debella Jeep Parts. He is out in Long Island, NY. Tons of NOS parts. Google his name I don't have his phone number handy right now. Give him a call and tell him Brian sent you there and he should have some parts you need.
I'm new to restoring old Jeeps. What is the best product to clean the old oil/water/grime out of these cases, transmissions, and transfer cases wihout damaging the parts? Thanks
Great video. It’s amazing how these things were designed to be repaired. A lost art. My question is - couldn’t that tube be saved? Either by heating and bending or cutting out the bend and adding straight steel?
Anything can be saved, but when a NOS part is available I usually go that route for repair.
Can you do a video as to how to set up the column shifter so it hits the right gears?
What's up Brian
Do you have any suggestions on a "most to read" book before starting a Willys restoration?
I think the best place to start would be a service manual for the Willys vehicle that you have. Read it thoroughly and familiarize yourself with the systems, tools, and tolerances. A good second book would be a parts book so you can see good exploded views of the parts that make up the vehicle
Can you show how you got the bushings out
How do you get the bushing's And oil seal out
Hi, very informative video; I'm rebuilding my willys mb steering box and would like to ask about steering worm sideplay. Is it normal that after shimming and removing up and down play I still have some sideplay? I noticed the play is coming from the gap between the balls and cup. Is it normal? thanks
there shouldn't be any noticeable play after the shimming is done. Did you use replacement parts in there? Let me know. Brian
Thanks for your prompt reply Brian. I didn't replace the balls and cups as they seem in good shape but the worm is brand new. I also inserted the sector shaft and did the necessary adjustments but I still have some side play . Do you mean that with only the worm, balls and cups in place and without up and down play I shouldn't have absolutely any sideplay? I calculated there is around a quarter inch sideplay at the top of the shaft ( i.e. at the steering wheel ). I'm thinking of replacing the balls and cups too. ( Please note that I haven't installed the steering column yet so the top steering column bearing isn't in place yet ). Many Thanks. Harry
Harry,
you should not have any play at all in the steering shaft after it is shimmed correctly. All up/down and side to side play should be eliminated. I would imagine that you have worn out cups or ball bearings in there. When you replace them there should be no play at all even without the colum and bearing. let me know how things go.
Brian
For some reason, my bearing is stuck in the bottom of the steering box? Do you have a recommendation on how to remove it? The ball bearings are out, just not the bearing housing.
you can knock the end cap out and then tap the bearing cup out. or you can use a slide hammer and a hook type puller and get under the cup and use the slide hammer to remove it. Either way works great.
Brian
Hello from Baltimore. I'm doing a restoration on a M38. How is the tube on the bottom of the steering gearbox that the horn cable goes through retained. Mine has come out of the gearbox and I'm just not sure how it is supposed to be held in place. Thanks for all the great videos.
Did only the tube come out or also the round steel part that it is attached to also come out?. the tube was swedged to a small round piece of steel and then the whole thing was pressed into the steering gear box. Not sure how much came out of the steering box but if just the tube then you can carefully tig weld it back together and it will look clean and neat.
metalshaper the round disc and tube came out the bottom as one unit.
ok, very common for them to come out. they were originally pressed into place. You can use adhesive to hold it in as one option. You can put it in and stake it in place with a punch in 3 or 4 places. You can also carefully build up the edge by tig welding, then turning to size on a lathe and pressing it in again. Lots of ways to do it, just depends on how much time you want to spend on it. fastest way is just to use an adhesive. Clean it good, then use rtv gasket maker or something similar, then press into place. Hope this helped, let me know how it goes.
Brian
metalshaper thanks so much for the quick response, all the information, and the great videos. What state are you located in? I am having Daryl from DL Bensinger do some of the more complicated work for me at this time but I was going to suggest to him that he use the differential fluid, steering gearbox fluid, and transmission/transfer case fluid that you offer. How would I go about buying some of that if I need it?
I am located in Connecticut and I ship my lubricants all over the world. I offer the finest lubricants available and would be happy to sell some to you for your project. contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can give you pricing information.
What is that rod that looks like it fits inside the worm gear? I have a 1943 GPW and no rod.
That is for the horn wire to safely make it thru the steering box and column and make it to the horn button.
Great channel Brian, would you know what the usual problem is when the steering box moves on the frame of a CJ7. Don't know if it's the box or the frame. Went to buy the Jeep a few days ago and left it cause I wasn't sure. Greetings from Ireland
Steering boxes on the CJ7 often have their brackets crack and that can cause movement. don't pass up on a good CJ7 as the brackets are available and you can change them out without too much trouble. They go under the spring mounting eye plate that is bolted to the frame and sometimes the bolts can rust and brake inside the frame also. Best to open up the frame, fix the bolts and weld it back together. I have done it many times with great results. Let me know how it goes.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Very helpful Brian and thanks for prompt reply. Wish I had workshop space like yours.Thanks for the tip I'll go straight back and buy that Jeep cause it's pretty good otherwise.
@@seamusburke1828 Great, I didn't want to see you pass on a good jeep due to common steering issues. Let me know how it goes.
I like the video, but you skipped over the two parts that I am having problems with. 1) How do you get the bottom race out of the gearbox and 2) how do you get the bushings out of the gearbox.
Bushings can be driven out with the right size drive tool, and the bottom race can be worked out with patience. may be best to take it to a professional if you are having trouble with it. Don't damage anything during the disassembly.
Brian
Get a galvanized wash tub 5 gallon's of varsol and some cheap brush's to clean the outside of all the cases , before you sandblast. Your sand will last longer....Hal
Not worried about saving sand, I don't reuse it, just send it thru the blast pot and its gone.
when do you blast with walnut shells vs sand?
walnut shells inside a blast cabinet on delicate parts such as pistons or engine parts. Sand for outdoor blasting on heavy steel such as frames and suspension components as well as sheet metal paint and rust removal.
Brian, I know I'm late to the party (almost a year)...but unless the worm gear is shot, that steering shaft can be straightened. Maybe you can do a little UA-cam channel cross-talk with Keith Fenner and his "Turn Wright Machine Works" channel...he specializes in shaft straightening (plus a bunch of other cool machining jobs that he records)
The worm gear was in bad shape so no sense in straightening the shaft. We were able to get a NOS tube and worm so the steering box is perfect and rebuilt to factory specs.
Awesome, glad it all worked out...you are my latest addiction, binge watching ALL your work. Thanks for the reply & check out Keith's channel, you won't be disappointed.
name is Ira, am restoring a 1952 M38A1 and need steering gear lube how do i contact you to obtain some
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can set you up with the lubricants you need.
Brian