I'm getting ready to perform this job on my 94 Accord LX. You explained everything perfectly made it very understandable. Thanks for the tips for removing the fuse box that's going to save my life! 🤣 I'm so glad i dont have to separate the axles that's the whole reason i was checking this video out!...🙏🙏🙏
My upper control arm bushings were loose requiring me to tighten them up when I installed them (the 2 rear parts that mount up) could that result in the car sitting higher?
There is another method just keep the tires on and jack up the car enough to where you can access the ball joints, side bushing nuts and bolts and have a fork as he has talked about I found doing this was quicker.
Hey man whats the part # on that moog upper control arm? I''ve been getting "moog"" control arms from autozone with no grease fitting and they keep on failing. Yours looks more beefy to.
I followed this video to replace mine, but afterwords I realized this video missed an important step. When you tighten the bushings on the new control arm, it’s important to tighten the bushings while the suspension is under load. If you tighten the bushing while the suspension is drooped all the way down, the rubber bushings will constantly be stressed when the wheels are on and the car is in the resting position. So after the control arms are on and the bushings are still loose, you can either put the wheel on, drop the car, then tighten the bushings, or jack the brake rotor up until the suspension is in the position it normally is with the wheels on, and then tighten the bushings. If you don’t do this the control arm rubber bushings will fail waaaay quicker. The model of control arm I used had self locking bushing nuts too, so loosening them and tightening them under load likely made the self locking less effective
I have a 95 Accord EX 2.2 L. You're the hero that doesn't wear a cape, thank you.
I'm getting ready to perform this job on my 94 Accord LX. You explained everything perfectly made it very understandable. Thanks for the tips for removing the fuse box that's going to save my life! 🤣 I'm so glad i dont have to separate the axles that's the whole reason i was checking this video out!...🙏🙏🙏
You're gonna go places man keep the work up, you make great videos
Thank You! I appreciate it!
Thanks. You explained it simple enough I can maybe do it myself lol.
Your video it really understand and very detail. Keep up the good work my friends...
Great video man,thanks I have to replace my wife's accord now.
My upper control arm bushings were loose requiring me to tighten them up when I installed them (the 2 rear parts that mount up) could that result in the car sitting higher?
Thanks for the tutor 👍👍👍
Great detailed video man, keep it up
Good video. Thanks for making it. Can you do one on the lower front control arms too if you haven't?
Great vid bro!!!
I can't manage to find one with a grease fitting anywhere can anyone suggest anywhere?
There is another method just keep the tires on and jack up the car enough to where you can access the ball joints, side bushing nuts and bolts and have a fork as he has talked about I found doing this was quicker.
great video
Thanks man good job, btw is that for the front or rear?
Thank you. My father always said. "Less you say, the smarter u sound"other then to much gab. Not bad. Hard to compete to 1Aauto. Stick with it
I removed the boots and pur high Temp urea honda grease inside. You'd be surprised how little grease they put
Where did you get the parts?
Good video....
Hey man whats the part # on that moog upper control arm? I''ve been getting "moog"" control arms from autozone with no grease fitting and they keep on failing. Yours looks more beefy to.
Nevermind found links thanks
Haha no problem
Additionally, an impact will work for that ball joint if it's spinning.
I followed this video to replace mine, but afterwords I realized this video missed an important step.
When you tighten the bushings on the new control arm, it’s important to tighten the bushings while the suspension is under load.
If you tighten the bushing while the suspension is drooped all the way down, the rubber bushings will constantly be stressed when the wheels are on and the car is in the resting position.
So after the control arms are on and the bushings are still loose, you can either put the wheel on, drop the car, then tighten the bushings, or jack the brake rotor up until the suspension is in the position it normally is with the wheels on, and then tighten the bushings.
If you don’t do this the control arm rubber bushings will fail waaaay quicker.
The model of control arm I used had self locking bushing nuts too, so loosening them and tightening them under load likely made the self locking less effective
Nermal?
How tf does nobody mention torquing the pivot bolts or even how to torque them???????????
Talk way less please. More work