The 1997 CR-V only came in the base model, LX and, if not all, almost all were AWD. There may have been a very few manual transmissions, but the vast majority were automatic. That didn't have ABS brakes. To keep the bushings from squeaking slather them with silicone paste. It protects the bushings and stops noise.
Nice, I have this aftermarket control arm and I’m thinking of just getting the oem ones since it doesn’t have these extra screws holding shit in place. The screws rotate slowly out and I’ve been retightens them every 6 months.
The two bolts on my battery tray that are easiest to get to were rusty lumps. Tapped the extractors on and turned them into perfectly circular rusty lumps with shiny bands around the outside. So I had to get out the trusty flux-core wire welder and put new nuts on top of those bolts. Replaced with 10.9 black oxide bolts of the same size (8x20 flange head or washer type screws - the ones I bought had 13mm heads - I assume because they're heavier-duty higher-grade bolts than original)
Not a front bolt at front of air box.. It slides under a gromet. But I broke the air box just like yours trying to slide it off the gromet. The gromet is attached to a bracket. Maybe need to remove that. Glued my box back together.... How to put back under gromet without breaking again?
I had, I thought, my whole suspension done about a year before my 97 crv was stolen. Looks like the thieves drove it about 1100 miles before insurance sat it 10+ months. Now I am told the right control arm is the reason for the clunking noise. Sight unseen, if I do both sides or get the 14 part kit to have both sides fully done again except struts, how much would you expect to charge or pay a mechanic to remove and replace?
I have tighten the bolt while the was up and drove about 20 mile, have same wierd noise now , do i need new arms or should work if i just loose them and tight back?
The new parts should be fine, the bolts probably came a bit loose. Lower the car to stock height and tight the bolts that bolt up to shock towers. The balljoint that connects to knuckle should be tightened before you put the car back together
Dont forget those lower ball joints, they are the serious problem, they are carrying the car weight on them not like the uper, they just holding the tire allignes with lower ball hoint position) and the only way to test them is to separate them from control arm, never test them by just moving tire up down and right left, mine got broken while driving, but lucky no damage except ball joint itself, except the tow truck refuse to tow my car and i hade to push it to nearest parking spot 200 meters and parked far away from curve, and then replace the balljoint next day.
I snug them down to spec is preferred but I’ve been doing this for years so I’ve gotten a feel for it. If it’s loose it will clunk and move over bumps or pot holes
Thank you for the detail! Saved my son a ton of money taking it to a shop. He was able to do it on his own. This is landmark stuff!
Thanks for watching!!
This is one of the most helpful videos out there
Thanks for watching glad I could help
The 1997 CR-V only came in the base model, LX and, if not all, almost all were AWD. There may have been a very few manual transmissions, but the vast majority were automatic. That didn't have ABS brakes.
To keep the bushings from squeaking slather them with silicone paste. It protects the bushings and stops noise.
Amigo you did such a great job explaining this patient and precise thank you very much I'm doing both of mine right now
Glad I could help mi amigo!! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Nice, I have this aftermarket control arm and I’m thinking of just getting the oem ones since it doesn’t have these extra screws holding shit in place. The screws rotate slowly out and I’ve been retightens them every 6 months.
The two bolts on my battery tray that are easiest to get to were rusty lumps. Tapped the extractors on and turned them into perfectly circular rusty lumps with shiny bands around the outside. So I had to get out the trusty flux-core wire welder and put new nuts on top of those bolts. Replaced with 10.9 black oxide bolts of the same size (8x20 flange head or washer type screws - the ones I bought had 13mm heads - I assume because they're heavier-duty higher-grade bolts than original)
very helpful! thank you do much!
Thanks for watching glad I could help
Nice vid!!! Ty
Thank you for watching!
Great video.
Thanks for watching i appreciate the support and feedback
Not a front bolt at front of air box.. It slides under a gromet. But I broke the air box just like yours trying to slide it off the gromet. The gromet is attached to a bracket. Maybe need to remove that. Glued my box back together.... How to put back under gromet without breaking again?
3:18 😂😂😂”Spray some lubrication that might make it easier for ya and then whack it “
I had, I thought, my whole suspension done about a year before my 97 crv was stolen.
Looks like the thieves drove it about 1100 miles before insurance sat it 10+ months.
Now I am told the right control arm is the reason for the clunking noise.
Sight unseen, if I do both sides or get the 14 part kit to have both sides fully done again except struts, how much would you expect to charge or pay a mechanic to remove and replace?
Your passenger side strut tower bolt isn’t all the way tighten lol, noticed it while watching the video
I have tighten the bolt while the was up and drove about 20 mile, have same wierd noise now , do i need new arms or should work if i just loose them and tight back?
The new parts should be fine, the bolts probably came a bit loose. Lower the car to stock height and tight the bolts that bolt up to shock towers. The balljoint that connects to knuckle should be tightened before you put the car back together
Dont forget those lower ball joints, they are the serious problem, they are carrying the car weight on them not like the uper, they just holding the tire allignes with lower ball hoint position) and the only way to test them is to separate them from control arm, never test them by just moving tire up down and right left, mine got broken while driving, but lucky no damage except ball joint itself, except the tow truck refuse to tow my car and i hade to push it to nearest parking spot 200 meters and parked far away from curve, and then replace the balljoint next day.
Hey thanks for that what you said there I really I really took that and and used it so thank you very much
did you tighten the control arm to the frame to specific torque specs or just until they were snug?
I snug them down to spec is preferred but I’ve been doing this for years so I’ve gotten a feel for it. If it’s loose it will clunk and move over bumps or pot holes
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The ball joints on crvs are very small and slight by weight comparatively to 70s cars. 1/8th the size.