One thing that is VERY IMPORTANT is to use the proper type of marine grease for lubricants. Some types of grease for heavy equipment have aluminum in them. A saltwater environment with that grease is a recipe for seize up. Use marine grade grease.
I agree, now there are some specific grease from manufacturers, like mercury and Yamaha you can use without the aluminum that are specifically for the bushings lube. But in general any grease that doesn’t contain corrosive metals in salt environment will do!
Aaron I'm very fortunate to have a shop near me that still works on 2 strokes. And....he used to be an OMC instructor! Had him troubleshoot my 120 Johnson looper, had cracked carb bases which I wasn't able to find on my own. Otherwise, I do my own maintenence and repairs thanks to your videos!
I have a 2 stoke merc, just bought the boat 2 yrs ago and been wanting to do maintenance on my own instead of bringing it to a shop. Thanks for posting these videos. These videos will be major help!
I laughed when you mentioned removing the oil pump on old Johnsons - I had a 1999 Johnson 50 & the fuel/oil pump failed not long after I bought it. Fortunately it failed by saturating the fuel, so didn't do any damage. It was $600 for a replacement pump or $60 for a straight fuel pump. So I was premix from that moment on. It was probably about 3 years old when that happened.
We would require a contract of zero liability and offer no warranty if you wanted to keep your injection pump at the shop I used to work at, nothing like your engines life blood being controlled by a plastic ring gear that shears easy peasy. Premix is the way to go, so long as your engine is getting fuel its getting oil. Too many dummies forgot to fill their injection tank or to connect the linkage to the throttle and then expected us to pay out the ass for their new engines for their negligence when they'd fry an engine in 10 minutes. Got to the point to where it wasn't worth the hassle, if you cant mix fuel you should buy a four stroke and neglect your oil changes that way instead lol. Mind you these were aviation two cycles so relying on a single failure point of a oil pump was a serious no go, all engine failures were inspected by the FAA and NTSB, we stood behind our work and were not found at fault due to negligence and or sabotage. Operator error or incorrect installation of the oil system were the culprits (we only did engines, no installs or engine removal, reservoirs were seperate from the pumps) Our most common failure was the pump gear shearing teeth or the central spline, or people neglecting to connect the appropriate linkages and lines to their reservoir. We offered deletes and block off plates for the rotary valve/waterpump/oil pump shaft at no additional cost as an incentive to go premix only, and would also return the pump to them as they are like a $180 assembly.
People are always crying about the fuel pump people are just to lazy to take a minute to see if you are using any oil I have a 86 mercury now for 5 years and I never had a problem I don’t recommend mixing 50 to 1 you will lose performance and it will be a lot more Smokey
VERY well done! SO many people don't realize that they can do this job themselves, and it seriously makes the difference on the life of the engine. Good video!
Hey Aaron really enjoying the series your doing on 2 strokes. I have been watching your channel for years and have learned so much from you . I think we should call you the professor 😁
I also have a 06 Yamaha 115 2 stroke it runs great I use only non ethanol gas and ring free at every full up keep my oil tanks clean and change my inline filter once a year I'm trying to make it run for ever
Yes yamaha imo made the best 2 strokes for boats and dir bikes. Anybody who is handy and can use a phone to research can revive them from the dead or tweak them to serious HP and torque!
I have a 1994 Johnson 140 hp looper. Runs perfectly and the VRO works right. Love the power and pick up. Has 720 hrs and it gets full maintenance annually. On a Boston Whaler Outrage and it's a wonderful combo in Monterey Bay and down the coast.
you can use a heat gun to gently heat the metal around the areas where this grease is gummed up. DO NOT USE A TORCH!! and be careful about using heat near the grease seals at both ends.
GREAT VIDEO!!! I bought a 1987 cobia monte carlo 172xl with a 90hp yamaha 2 stroke off the original owner. Your videos are exactly what i needed. Thanks soo much!!!
I coat all my engines with fluid film as in dripping ....the smell of the cosmoline is additive. Excellent preservative and doesnt hurt the wires, on a 95 Merc 90hp.
It is very important to clean and lube the actuating arm of the engine oil metering pump and especially the spring in the shaft of the oil metering pump. This spring actually is a fail safe to provide positive oil delivery to the engine by turning the actuating arm full open position in the event of an operating linkage/cable failure.
Just run premix and delete the failure point altogether, because even redundant failsafes can fail. Double or triple redundant failsafes just get over complicated and expensive like airplanes, and boats already get enough heat for costing a ton of money. Excessive positive oil feed also makes fouling plugs when underway a likely possibility and could still leave you just as stranded. Nothing wrong with keeping up on preventative maintenance, id rather eliminate a potential problem before it can become one however.
I bought a boat a couple of years ago. I really didn't know anything about boats. I didn't want to destroy a new one so I bought an older boat to try to learn on. Knowing what I know now, I did overpay a little bit. But it's been a great learning experience and I've watched many of your videos. Thank you. I had no idea this was something to watch out for, but it looks like the one I got is already way too far gone. This point. I'm just looking to upgrade to a nicer boat now that I'm not a complete idiot
I jumped in head 1st. I bought a brand new 18 foot with a 135hp inboard with a alpha 2 leg. This was 20 years ago. But basically a entry level boat now is the same. I ran that thing so hard only fresh water mind u. But for 10 seasons straight. I googled how to do a oil change and leg servicing (super easy 30 mins max) also how to winterize as it was always stored outside (even easier) never changed a spark plug, air filter nothing) did get 1 flat tire on the trailer in that time, cost me 117.00 CAD installed. The 4cyl engine was amazing on fuel. Total cost of all maintenance and fluids (not gas) wasnt more than 400 cad pesos over the 10 years and I must have put 500 hours per year on it at least. It never ever let me down and i saved many a boat that was sinking and ppl in distress. Sold it running the same as it always ran. Oh i did have to replace the bilge pump once. Got exact same one from crap tire for 29.99 and about 15 mins to install. Anyhow I sold it and only lost a few thousand dollars. Very impressive and i believe its still running around some lake or ocean somewhere. And now I can tow, backup like a total pro no matter what type of trailer or vehicle. And now I work on small tin boats and motors and can fix em and use them or trade up or down and its much more work than the brand new one i had 20 years ago but it taught me a great deal of knowledge. Now i can revive old outboards yammys being my fav. In a matter of a few hours usually. Just my story and now That im old n wise I run a cheap aluminum with 0 leaks thx to those new alumawelding rods and some Map gas and a free 80's yammy outboard i revived after sitting out in the elements for 7 years (took a pull cord and carb clean) and small wire up the water impeller and had it running the 1st day. But I ordered a new seal kit just for peace of mind. Also the old yammies could be almost doubled in power with about a $50 investment and 30 mins of my time. Perfect fishing machine and de stresser or weekend boat only free camping spots that are some of the best in the world. The boating community is amazing and its truly gave me some serious skills and knowledge as well as satisfaction of saving and helping people. Stick with it youll be glad you did. Anyone needs help or advice shoot me a message. B happy to try and help. Cheers
One very important tool that I used extensively in restoring a 1989 Mako is a Dremel tool fitted with carbon steel brushes - I went thru literally hundreds of brushes, but they are well worth the costs. These brushes will brighten up the most corroded metal parts very quickly. They will make the most corroded S.S. screws look and function like new. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION BECAUSE THE BRUSHES SPIN VERY FAST AND THE BRISTLES FLY OFF CONSTANTLY. Have handfuls of the brushes on hand - they pay for themselves by saving many hours of labor.
One of the best motors I had was a Merc 9,9 from the early 80's I bought new because of a hp restricted lake I fished a lot but used everywhere else too. So easy to start by hand and could sit at idle for trolling for a hour and not even whimper when going to full throttle.
Thank you for bringing that. Up. I noticed that the engine was very hard to turn. I lube the push/ pull cable but not that one. It's going to do wonders I'm sure
The Yamaha 90TLRB. One of the best engines I ever owned. Excellent maintenance video. I like the tie wrap on the low oil sending unit cap. Mine seeped oil so much I would only put a quart or two in at the time to keep the level below the rubber cap. Couldn't see spending $150 for a new sensor assembly for the rubber cap when the float switch worked fine for the alarm.
Good information here thank you. I’m looking at buying a boat with a 1998 150 Mercury offshore two stroke outboard engine. I really don’t know anything about outboard engines. I was told that the engine had just been serviced about 6 months ago and his mechanic told him that the engine is in great shape
Find and buy the Service Manual for your boat (or vehicle or motorcycle) always first and foremost. Any maintenance or replacing broken parts are outlined with part #’s and instructions. Hopefully your Merc is treating you as good as my 1990 115 is! They’ll live forever if you take care of em
I regularly use a 130 Yamaha V4 2 stroke. I've had the carbies rebuilt, decarboned, new fuel lines, water separating fuel filter etc. Also did water pump/impeller. Next up, poppet valve, and i'll re-do thermostats. Been running Salt-away through the motor, as it's throwing an overheat alarm at WOT. Hoping the salt away fixes it, if not thermostats and poppet valve. Don't really want to take the water jackets off.
Any excellent DIY basic 2 stroke outboard maintenance - some great tips 👍. I have a 1999 Yamaha OX66 250 EFI on a 1988 2200 Pursuit - it keeps running well, reluctant to change to 4 stroke. With your tips it should be good for a few more years.
I got tasked with replacing the steering cable on that exact same boat , cut the old cable to pull it out , had to cpull the motor off to get the new cab,e in , was able to leave the rigging tube connected ... did it with a skid loader
Tip for the rusted pivot pin. If you think that it might be full of dried up grease you can push kerosene or thinner through the grease nipple. Leave it to dry for 24h and you are good to go.
I deal with froze up grease fittings all the time there’s a tool that you put motor oil in and you smack it with a hammer it’s for clogged grease fittings changing the grease fitting you’d be amazed when you think a pin is frozen and you change grease fitting and it works. Change the grease fitting and wiggle the motor side to side as somebody greases it. You won’t have to do much of those things you were talking about. I’m 99% sure, but sometimes you do you’re right
Nice motor transformation! This series is full of practical content. Key west must have sold a gazillion of those 1720 Sportsman models with a 90 Yam 2-stroke. Great power to weight ration on those motors. I notice you've picked up the cadence a little bit. Nice! ✌🏼
I have a 1991 Monarch 16 w a 60 Mariner. Amazing how great that little motor has been. She is thirsty but runs like a top. Definitely burns more than my Xpress w 115 Yamaha 4 Stroke. lol
I have a 2008 90 2 stroke. Just hard to start after sitting a few days. After that you can look at it and it starts. New primer bulb pumped up super tight. Checked and cleaned the carbs and fuel enrichment system. Don't understand why yamaha decided these engines didn't need a choke. I'm thinking about getting a snowmobile plunger primer and taping into fuel line and installing a Tee where the enrichment host is attached. Goods video.
Had to open up the thermostat housing the second time because you forgot to replace some of the parts ? Always have on hand a handful of small plastic bins in order to store and segregate your nuts / bolts / and small parts. You'll never have the problem of forgetting to replace something.
Spend the bucks on a new head gasket. Pull off the head and get all of the crud out of the cooling galleries. I did to mine and was surprised at how much stuff had to be chipped out.
@bubbleobill267 Or you can just spend a little time and flush your engine while washing your boat down after every use, There is absolutely no reason why any engine should look like that! Motors like that usually belong to lazy incompetent owners who lack even the most basic knowledge when it comes to boat maintenance!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 If it’s a new ( old ) motor to you sometimes it has to be done, I’m all for flushing after every use too. Maintenance is key in my books.
Good series on this motor. I was gonna add that I never trust nice looking (aka new) gear oil as someone may have put new oil and you don’t know what the condition of the previously drained oil was. If it’s drained may as well take 10 minutes and pressure test it to be sure. All that said I actually prefer to see black gear oil as that means it’s been in a while and has been used but is water free.
You just need to turn the engine to one side or the other and then towards the top about 3 inches below the steering tube top, drill the hole in the middle where you can thread a zerk in :)
The yamaha auto oiling definitely does fail to no oil supply. I have the seized engines and blocks with thrown rods to prove it..... Just as bad as the omc vro system
Could that be that the owner has not lubricated and checked/replaced the spring that actually IS the failsafe spring to give wide open oil supply when/if the oil pump "fails" internally?
Unfortunately, I don't have a grease fitting at the bottom of my engine, only the top. So, after seeing this, I'll drill a hole to clean out some old grease, then a zerk fitting.
Man you do a lot more than Me. I just grease it every year, change lower unit oil, New plugs, and change prop and grease shaft. And was with lime away, and Gunk And Armor all rubber. My 2004 30hp Johnson looks new.. This is all I have done on my Boat Motors for the last 40 plus years but I am in fresh water.
There is a clue there...WD40 it is not a lubricant..it is the exact opposite! It is Water Dispersant formula 40 (got it right after 39 attempts!) By all means use it to clean things.... Use it to get rid of water. Don't use it as a lubricant for anything. Use a lubricant for lubrication Use a silicone spray as a surface protectant for cleaned surfaces...liberally on any outboard. Horses for courses.
Man i got spoiled with my engine cleaning setup at the shop, would've degreased the whole thing from the get go with the solvent wand and dried with compressed air. Then proceeded to inspect, tear down as needed for further inspection, and relubricate. With that old grease id lubricate before and after each outing for a few weekends, and then periodically biweekly. Lube is cheaper than parts. I prefer LPS 2 or 3 for preservative coatings, its good stuff and im not here to knock other brands but i prefer it for the smell honestly. Personally ive been mixing fuel since I was 5, my dad wouldnt let me start the dirtbike until i knew how to mix fuel and only fill it with the jug labeled "32:1 PREMIX". Id rip the oil injection right out and just add the appropriate amount of oil for how much fuel i pumped. Id rather premix than risk a failsafe fouling my plugs and still stranding me lol. Im a firm believer of if you can't mix gas you have zero business owning a two stroke, thats my pedanitc generalized opinion on the matter and not a dig at you.
One word for making the motor last longer marvel mystery oil ive been using it for years since the 80s never any carb issues not one great for fuel pump and cylinders to
I have a Suzuki df140a with 86 hours on it. I have been very diligent with the maintenance of it. I flush it every time I use it with salt away. Now salt off. I changed the internal anodes and they were full of corrosion and salt. It really surprised me how much it had inside of the water passages. I wonder how much worse it would be if I didn’t use the salt away. I changed all fluids every year no matter if the engine oil change timer light is on or off. I really want to see what happens when you run the salt off through the engine.
I would love to see someone invent a Fuel Injection system for the 115 & 130hp 2 strokes engines. I would buy it now, carbs burn twice the gas as FI engines. My 130hp is 24 years old and going strong, so I want to keep it as long as possible. The price of a new 4 stroke engine is a bunch and budget crusher! Thanks for the detail instructions on your video.
Hey! Rose here, helping Aaron with comments. What a great topic! It's headed for our podcast feature list. If you haven't listened yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Depends on a couple of things. Obviously price and availability of stuff. If the rest of the engine looks good, like the lower unit, the trim unit, and other parts on the engine, like most of them are in good shape and are going to last, that is a check for the rebuild. Is there someone around you or are you able to do the rebuild? Depending on if you or someone you know can do a rebuild, how long will it take, how much will that cost, that factors. Or is there the availability of the parts to do a rebuild? Or maybe you could find a used powerhead or a new or remanned powerhead? What would that cost? And how long would it take? Based on that, those will get you to a pretty good idea of what it would cost, and if it would be worth doing it. Then compare that to a new engine, and how long it would take to get it done. Also, what's your money look like? If you got the money and don't want to mess with it, new, if money's kinda tight, but you got most of the other stuff for a rebuild, rebuild it :) 90's Yamahas are super reliable, but, they are getting older and older and parts start to fail often with this type of age, so, lots of variable here lol hope this helps
Great Answer - You are a Boater’s Best Resource! One other possibility to consider would be to find a used engine with a bad lower end or seized steering.
Hello. Love your videos. They’re great! I have a question if you don’t mind offering your expertise. I have this same motor. Under load mine does like 10mph full throttle, in the water. Out of water it throttles high and normal. Have any idea what it could be?
Hi there! This is Rose. Thank you so much for your comment! Unfortunately, I don't have the answer to your specific question. We find it's best to address these inquiries one-on-one. That's why we've introduced a channel membership, where we discuss these topics weekly in live sessions. If this sounds appealing, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated!
About 5 years ago I got an old 89 150 Evinrude XP. The first thing I did was throw the VRO oil pump in the trash. I premix my fuel with no issues. What oil do you guy recommend for old Evinrudes? Is synthetic blend good?
Most outboard oils are all a synthetic blends so for sure they are good. I'd say to keep doing what you have been doing for the last 5 years, seems like it's working great! Normally we tend to recommend branded oil, Evinrudes get Evinrude, Yami's get Yamaha's, Mercury's get Mercury's. RevX oil makes a really good oil too though.
Hi there! This is Rose. Thank you so much for your comment! Unfortunately, I don't have the answer to your specific question. We find it's best to address these inquiries one-on-one. That's why we've introduced a channel membership, where we discuss these topics weekly in live sessions. If this sounds appealing, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated!
I have a 1991 Mercruiser 150 on my 1991 ProCraft 180 Combo. The boat has very low hours (less than 200). Would you be able to do a how to on a similar engine? Right off the bat to me there are differences between the Yamaha and the Mercruiser.
love the channel and everything that is in the video except for him saying remove the oil pump, I know where he gets his misconception from but ever two -stroke with a VRO that has seized or blown up that I have seen has indeed not been caused by low oil or inadequate oil flow they were all caused by some other less obvious reason. Again love the channel but just wanted to through that out there.
CRC is a company that manufactures many types of lubricants and sprays. You just need to go to say an auto supplies store and choose the right one. They even make a lube spray for marine environments called 2.66
In general are early 1990s 2 stroke 225 Yamahas worth keeping alive? I got twins that came with my boat and have had some issues with them. Wondering if in general it's worth it to continue to help them live?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk My current issue is that after I run them for say 40 minutes, they start building a whitish blue milky residue on the throats of the carbs (more so on the lowest ones) the kind I've read most say is due to humidity, condensation, etc. After a while it seems it builds so much that one engine, or the other, will die and will have hard starts, or not start again, until I get to the dock and clean them off that residue. I'm using new fuel filters, new fuel water separators (the old ones had water in them, but checked the new ones last time it happened and there was no water in them. I also added gas conditioner to my ethanol gas. I also had just cleaned all carbs before last time it happened and drained the bowls, after use, hoping it'll do them some good. Each engine has its own dedicated tank. So I'll go Monday to see how they do this time, hoping that with repeated use it'll stop happening?
@@mikesolns1364 Look at the air passages from the cowling intake to the carb intakes. Look for a spray of water from say the thermostat housing/pee hole..you can't see it under the cover of course when the engine is running. If that residue is there in the throats BEFORE the jets it's being brought in with the air,,,,not the fuel.
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Awesome help. I'll check that. I suspect also my cowling seals are letting water seep in, as they don't look tight enough. And when I'm in the water running them, most of the time I see the pushed out water around the engines, above the cowling seals level. Could that be causing it too? If yes how does that even get addressed? Thanks in advance
Any tips for a 60tlrz with a persistent overheat alarm despite new impellers, new water pump housing, a muriatic acid rinse through the water jacket and even a full disassembly of the water jacket? It is clean as can be and is a fresh water motor but will alarm if let sitting at courtesy dock or when idling after coming off plane. Tell-tale is not strong at idle but it never has been and have read yamahas have notoriously low water pressure at idle/neutral.
Check the water intake for the cooling system... if water can't get in at idle...at speed the speed actually helps force water in.... clear all the passages into the pump...check wear on the pump housing?
Good video but from my experience owning two strokes with oil injection,the oil pump commonly fails on these engines especially Suzukis.The best thing to do is bypass the oil pump connecting the hoses together and running the engine 50:1 gas to oil ratio.All oil injection does is give the engine less oil at Idle and low speed creating less smoke,also making it a leaner fuel ratio.Failure of the oil pump if not noticed in time(light off)can be catastrophic to the engine.Yes,more carbon will develop on tops of pistons and inside of cylinder head but no matter what if the motor came with oil injection or not,the cylinder head should be removed and cleaned of carbon periodically along with a mild wire wheel mounted to drill to remove carbon off of top of Pistons, reassembled with new head gasket.The cleaning is what will assure very long engine life.
The yamaha outboards don't send oil through the carbs to gunk them up, it mixes the oil on the backside of the carb, the mechanical oil pumps rarely fail on the yamaha, keep it lubed it will last forever, and your carbs won't need cleaning all the time like if you premix and let it sit for awhile.
Thanks for keeping the two stroke alive. I have a 1995 C115. Always run non ethanol and a good additive every fill up. Thing is a absolute tank.
One thing that is VERY IMPORTANT is to use the proper type of marine grease for lubricants. Some types of grease for heavy equipment have aluminum in them. A saltwater environment with that grease is a recipe for seize up. Use marine grade grease.
Great point!
Do you have any recommendations? Is Lucas Marine grease ok? Does Quicksilver really justify its price for fresh water application? Thank you.
I agree, now there are some specific grease from manufacturers, like mercury and Yamaha you can use without the aluminum that are specifically for the bushings lube.
But in general any grease that doesn’t contain corrosive metals in salt environment will do!
Aaron I'm very fortunate to have a shop near me that still works on 2 strokes. And....he used to be an OMC instructor! Had him troubleshoot my 120 Johnson looper, had cracked carb bases which I wasn't able to find on my own. Otherwise, I do my own maintenence and repairs thanks to your videos!
I have a 2 stoke merc, just bought the boat 2 yrs ago and been wanting to do maintenance on my own instead of bringing it to a shop. Thanks for posting these videos. These videos will be major help!
I laughed when you mentioned removing the oil pump on old Johnsons - I had a 1999 Johnson 50 & the fuel/oil pump failed not long after I bought it. Fortunately it failed by saturating the fuel, so didn't do any damage. It was $600 for a replacement pump or $60 for a straight fuel pump. So I was premix from that moment on. It was probably about 3 years old when that happened.
That was the 1st project I did on my old 120 Johnson 2 years ago, VRO delete!
We would require a contract of zero liability and offer no warranty if you wanted to keep your injection pump at the shop I used to work at, nothing like your engines life blood being controlled by a plastic ring gear that shears easy peasy.
Premix is the way to go, so long as your engine is getting fuel its getting oil.
Too many dummies forgot to fill their injection tank or to connect the linkage to the throttle and then expected us to pay out the ass for their new engines for their negligence when they'd fry an engine in 10 minutes.
Got to the point to where it wasn't worth the hassle, if you cant mix fuel you should buy a four stroke and neglect your oil changes that way instead lol.
Mind you these were aviation two cycles so relying on a single failure point of a oil pump was a serious no go, all engine failures were inspected by the FAA and NTSB, we stood behind our work and were not found at fault due to negligence and or sabotage. Operator error or incorrect installation of the oil system were the culprits (we only did engines, no installs or engine removal, reservoirs were seperate from the pumps)
Our most common failure was the pump gear shearing teeth or the central spline, or people neglecting to connect the appropriate linkages and lines to their reservoir. We offered deletes and block off plates for the rotary valve/waterpump/oil pump shaft at no additional cost as an incentive to go premix only, and would also return the pump to them as they are like a $180 assembly.
People are always crying about the fuel pump people are just to lazy to take a minute to see if you are using any oil I have a 86 mercury now for 5 years and I never had a problem I don’t recommend mixing 50 to 1 you will lose performance and it will be a lot more Smokey
VERY well done!
SO many people don't realize that they can do this job themselves, and it seriously makes the difference on the life of the engine.
Good video!
I have a flats boat with an 2002 Yamaha 70 HP and that engine is a BEAST ! Maintain , Maintain , Maintain and it will last a long time .
Hey Aaron really enjoying the series your doing on 2 strokes. I have been watching your channel for years and have learned so much from you . I think we should call you the professor 😁
Rebuilt a 16ft fibreglass runabout over winter then fitted a 2006 model 115hp 2 stroke. Got to love these 2 stroke yamahas.
I also have a 06 Yamaha 115 2 stroke it runs great I use only non ethanol gas and ring free at every full up keep my oil tanks clean and change my inline filter once a year I'm trying to make it run for ever
@@DustinKeating-yk3vqI have a 90 Yamaha 2 stroke. Just started using ring free, are your carbs staying cleaner longer with the ring free?
Yes yamaha imo made the best 2 strokes for boats and dir bikes. Anybody who is handy and can use a phone to research can revive them from the dead or tweak them to serious HP and torque!
I have a 1994 Johnson 140 hp looper. Runs perfectly and the VRO works right. Love the power and pick up. Has 720 hrs and it gets full maintenance annually. On a Boston Whaler Outrage and it's a wonderful combo in Monterey Bay and down the coast.
I bought a boat with one of these a few years ago, so I’m loving this video series.
Great video for us with old smokers. Add a couple drops of oil to the starter gear shaft so it slings up freely
I worked for 2 Evinrude dealers and a Nissan outboard dealer in the 1980s you gave a lot of great advice
Thank you!
you can use a heat gun to gently heat the metal around the areas where this grease is gummed up. DO NOT USE A TORCH!! and be careful about using heat near the grease seals at both ends.
GREAT VIDEO!!! I bought a 1987 cobia monte carlo 172xl with a 90hp yamaha 2 stroke off the original owner. Your videos are exactly what i needed. Thanks soo much!!!
Go Premix brother you won't worry about that engine afterwards. That oil pump will fail and burn your engine.
I coat all my engines with fluid film as in dripping ....the smell of the cosmoline is additive. Excellent preservative and doesnt hurt the wires, on a 95 Merc 90hp.
It is very important to clean and lube the actuating arm of the engine oil metering pump and especially the spring in the shaft of the oil metering pump. This spring actually is a fail safe to provide positive oil delivery to the engine by turning the actuating arm full open position in the event of an operating linkage/cable failure.
Just run premix and delete the failure point altogether, because even redundant failsafes can fail.
Double or triple redundant failsafes just get over complicated and expensive like airplanes, and boats already get enough heat for costing a ton of money. Excessive positive oil feed also makes fouling plugs when underway a likely possibility and could still leave you just as stranded.
Nothing wrong with keeping up on preventative maintenance, id rather eliminate a potential problem before it can become one however.
I bought a boat a couple of years ago. I really didn't know anything about boats. I didn't want to destroy a new one so I bought an older boat to try to learn on. Knowing what I know now, I did overpay a little bit. But it's been a great learning experience and I've watched many of your videos. Thank you. I had no idea this was something to watch out for, but it looks like the one I got is already way too far gone. This point. I'm just looking to upgrade to a nicer boat now that I'm not a complete idiot
I jumped in head 1st. I bought a brand new 18 foot with a 135hp inboard with a alpha 2 leg. This was 20 years ago. But basically a entry level boat now is the same. I ran that thing so hard only fresh water mind u. But for 10 seasons straight. I googled how to do a oil change and leg servicing (super easy 30 mins max) also how to winterize as it was always stored outside (even easier) never changed a spark plug, air filter nothing) did get 1 flat tire on the trailer in that time, cost me 117.00 CAD installed. The 4cyl engine was amazing on fuel. Total cost of all maintenance and fluids (not gas) wasnt more than 400 cad pesos over the 10 years and I must have put 500 hours per year on it at least. It never ever let me down and i saved many a boat that was sinking and ppl in distress. Sold it running the same as it always ran. Oh i did have to replace the bilge pump once. Got exact same one from crap tire for 29.99 and about 15 mins to install. Anyhow I sold it and only lost a few thousand dollars. Very impressive and i believe its still running around some lake or ocean somewhere. And now I can tow, backup like a total pro no matter what type of trailer or vehicle. And now I work on small tin boats and motors and can fix em and use them or trade up or down and its much more work than the brand new one i had 20 years ago but it taught me a great deal of knowledge. Now i can revive old outboards yammys being my fav. In a matter of a few hours usually. Just my story and now That im old n wise I run a cheap aluminum with 0 leaks thx to those new alumawelding rods and some Map gas and a free 80's yammy outboard i revived after sitting out in the elements for 7 years (took a pull cord and carb clean) and small wire up the water impeller and had it running the 1st day. But I ordered a new seal kit just for peace of mind. Also the old yammies could be almost doubled in power with about a $50 investment and 30 mins of my time. Perfect fishing machine and de stresser or weekend boat only free camping spots that are some of the best in the world. The boating community is amazing and its truly gave me some serious skills and knowledge as well as satisfaction of saving and helping people. Stick with it youll be glad you did. Anyone needs help or advice shoot me a message. B happy to try and help. Cheers
One very important tool that I used extensively in restoring a 1989 Mako is a Dremel tool fitted with carbon steel brushes - I went thru literally hundreds of brushes, but they are well worth the costs. These brushes will brighten up the most corroded metal parts very quickly. They will make the most corroded S.S. screws look and function like new. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION BECAUSE THE BRUSHES SPIN VERY FAST AND THE BRISTLES FLY OFF CONSTANTLY. Have handfuls of the brushes on hand - they pay for themselves by saving many hours of labor.
they are also very good at cleaning mating surfaces of metal or thermoplastic parts.
One of the best motors I had was a Merc 9,9 from the early 80's I bought new because of a hp restricted lake I fished a lot but used everywhere else too. So easy to start by hand and could sit at idle for trolling for a hour and not even whimper when going to full throttle.
Great job creating this video. Coherent and condensed. Thank you for sharing your knwoledge.
Thank you for bringing that. Up. I noticed that the engine was very hard to turn. I lube the push/ pull cable but not that one. It's going to do wonders I'm sure
I'll be using this to open in the spring! Thank you so much!
The Yamaha 90TLRB. One of the best engines I ever owned. Excellent maintenance video. I like the tie wrap on the low oil sending unit cap. Mine seeped oil so much I would only put a quart or two in at the time to keep the level below the rubber cap. Couldn't see spending $150 for a new sensor assembly for the rubber cap when the float switch worked fine for the alarm.
The zip tie is a wonderful invention :) gotta love em!
@@BornAgainBoatingamen brother! 🙏🏻 can't live without em'
Good information here thank you. I’m looking at buying a boat with a 1998 150 Mercury offshore two stroke outboard engine. I really don’t know anything about outboard engines. I was told that the engine had just been serviced about 6 months ago and his mechanic told him that the engine is in great shape
Find and buy the Service Manual for your boat (or vehicle or motorcycle) always first and foremost. Any maintenance or replacing broken parts are outlined with part #’s and instructions. Hopefully your Merc is treating you as good as my 1990 115 is! They’ll live forever if you take care of em
Your ketchup bottle trick is awesome! Remembered that from before and use it every time I need to top off
Long live 2 strokes Aaron!
I regularly use a 130 Yamaha V4 2 stroke. I've had the carbies rebuilt, decarboned, new fuel lines, water separating fuel filter etc. Also did water pump/impeller. Next up, poppet valve, and i'll re-do thermostats.
Been running Salt-away through the motor, as it's throwing an overheat alarm at WOT. Hoping the salt away fixes it, if not thermostats and poppet valve. Don't really want to take the water jackets off.
Any excellent DIY basic 2 stroke outboard maintenance - some great tips 👍.
I have a 1999 Yamaha OX66 250 EFI on a 1988 2200 Pursuit - it keeps running well, reluctant to change to 4 stroke. With your tips it should be good for a few more years.
Great video man! I have this exact motor, I came on here to look for a video on the rigging tube and found this one instead. You did. Great job!
Thank you.
I’m glad you mentioned the fact that grease does not compact. I was going make a comment on that until you got to the water impeller housing bolts
A pump up sprayer with plain water would work well on rinsing and be more precise and get in crevices .
I got tasked with replacing the steering cable on that exact same boat , cut the old cable to pull it out , had to cpull the motor off to get the new cab,e in , was able to leave the rigging tube connected ... did it with a skid loader
Tip for the rusted pivot pin. If you think that it might be full of dried up grease you can push kerosene or thinner through the grease nipple. Leave it to dry for 24h and you are good to go.
That's a great tip, thank you! Never heard of that :)
I deal with froze up grease fittings all the time there’s a tool that you put motor oil in and you smack it with a hammer it’s for clogged grease fittings changing the grease fitting you’d be amazed when you think a pin is frozen and you change grease fitting and it works. Change the grease fitting and wiggle the motor side to side as somebody greases it. You won’t have to do much of those things you were talking about. I’m 99% sure, but sometimes you do you’re right
Great video! Do one for merc 2 stroke please.
Same
@@Jerry-sy8rd still I'll like to see the same but with a Merc 2 strokes.
Nice motor transformation! This series is full of practical content. Key west must have sold a gazillion of those 1720 Sportsman models with a 90 Yam 2-stroke. Great power to weight ration on those motors. I notice you've picked up the cadence a little bit. Nice! ✌🏼
Thanks! This is such a great series
I have a 1991 Monarch 16 w a 60 Mariner. Amazing how great that little motor has been. She is thirsty but runs like a top. Definitely burns more than my Xpress w 115 Yamaha 4 Stroke. lol
How are mariners engine
@@davidreta3664 Just a rebranded Merc from way back in the day. My 60 has been great.
@@marshmellow3110 I’m looking at a few they want 2500 92 60 to 93 60 3500
I have a 2008 90 2 stroke. Just hard to start after sitting a few days. After that you can look at it and it starts. New primer bulb pumped up super tight. Checked and cleaned the carbs and fuel enrichment system. Don't understand why yamaha decided these engines didn't need a choke. I'm thinking about getting a snowmobile plunger primer and taping into fuel line and installing a Tee where the enrichment host is attached. Goods video.
Good luck!
Thanks mate. I have some tasks waiting for me now
Had to open up the thermostat housing the second time because you forgot to replace some of the parts ? Always have on hand a handful of small plastic bins in order to store and segregate your nuts / bolts / and small parts. You'll never have the problem of forgetting to replace something.
liking the 2 stroke videos. I own the V4 130 love that motor.
You are very knowledgeable about outboards and boats so jealous but you have an amazing skill
Your always on my wavelength thanks brother awesome video 💯
Spend the bucks on a new head gasket. Pull off the head and get all of the crud out of the cooling galleries. I did to mine and was surprised at how much stuff had to be chipped out.
Yowza! I'm afraid to look at mine 😂
Lucky all the bolts came out
@@nygardenguru No problems with the bolts, they all came out pretty easy.
@bubbleobill267 Or you can just spend a little time and flush your engine while washing your boat down after every use, There is absolutely no reason why any engine should look like that! Motors like that usually belong to lazy incompetent owners who lack even the most basic knowledge when it comes to boat maintenance!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 If it’s a new ( old ) motor to you sometimes it has to be done, I’m all for flushing after every use too. Maintenance is key in my books.
Good series on this motor.
I was gonna add that I never trust nice looking (aka new) gear oil as someone may have put new oil and you don’t know what the condition of the previously drained oil was. If it’s drained may as well take 10 minutes and pressure test it to be sure. All that said I actually prefer to see black gear oil as that means it’s been in a while and has been used but is water free.
Rebuilt my ox66 recently and now I see I need to lube some areas I missed. 😮😊👍
Could you make a video showing where to add another grease fitting in the steering tube or how to remove and replace steering tube bushings? Thanks.
You just need to turn the engine to one side or the other and then towards the top about 3 inches below the steering tube top, drill the hole in the middle where you can thread a zerk in :)
I do not save many videos but this is one I will be doing soon. thanks for all the stuff I had no clue about lol
Great video. Many thanks.
The yamaha auto oiling definitely does fail to no oil supply. I have the seized engines and blocks with thrown rods to prove it..... Just as bad as the omc vro system
Could that be that the owner has not lubricated and checked/replaced the spring that actually IS the failsafe spring to give wide open oil supply when/if the oil pump "fails" internally?
Thanks! That was informative video. I didt know that there was a grease plug for a steering. Mine was so dry. Thanks! 👍
Unfortunately, I don't have a grease fitting at the bottom of my engine, only the top. So, after seeing this, I'll drill a hole to clean out some old grease, then a zerk fitting.
A bit of a contradiction on the impeller: "I would not change this, but I'm going to because I'm here"
;)
I never said I was smart lol :)
One heck of a video! Two thumbs up!
Man you do a lot more than Me. I just grease it every year, change lower unit oil, New plugs, and change prop and grease shaft. And was with lime away, and Gunk And Armor all rubber. My 2004 30hp Johnson looks new.. This is all I have done on my Boat Motors for the last 40 plus years but I am in fresh water.
Have you never changed your water pump impeller?
Spraying with WD-40 works as well breaking down old grease to free up for grease to flow.
There is a clue there...WD40 it is not a lubricant..it is the exact opposite!
It is Water Dispersant formula 40 (got it right after 39 attempts!)
By all means use it to clean things....
Use it to get rid of water.
Don't use it as a lubricant for anything.
Use a lubricant for lubrication
Use a silicone spray as a surface protectant for cleaned surfaces...liberally on any outboard.
Horses for courses.
The plated shell on NGK spark plugs don't need anti seize. In the small print it is not recommended.
Great video keep the 2 stroke Yamaha content coming! New subscriber
So cleaning it, greasing it, new plugs and impeller and it will live forever?
Hey Aaron, have these 90hp 2 strokes changed at all, example is a 2004 year the same as a 2014 year model, awesome vids mate thanks
Very minimal changes if any at all, they are bullet proof! lol
Man i got spoiled with my engine cleaning setup at the shop, would've degreased the whole thing from the get go with the solvent wand and dried with compressed air. Then proceeded to inspect, tear down as needed for further inspection, and relubricate. With that old grease id lubricate before and after each outing for a few weekends, and then periodically biweekly.
Lube is cheaper than parts.
I prefer LPS 2 or 3 for preservative coatings, its good stuff and im not here to knock other brands but i prefer it for the smell honestly.
Personally ive been mixing fuel since I was 5, my dad wouldnt let me start the dirtbike until i knew how to mix fuel and only fill it with the jug labeled "32:1 PREMIX". Id rip the oil injection right out and just add the appropriate amount of oil for how much fuel i pumped. Id rather premix than risk a failsafe fouling my plugs and still stranding me lol.
Im a firm believer of if you can't mix gas you have zero business owning a two stroke, thats my pedanitc generalized opinion on the matter and not a dig at you.
Great series, very informative 😊
Great informations ! keep going !!
One word for making the motor last longer marvel mystery oil ive been using it for years since the 80s never any carb issues not one great for fuel pump and cylinders to
New here.
Will an ultrasonic tank help to clean the Tstat housing?
I have a Suzuki df140a with 86 hours on it. I have been very diligent with the maintenance of it. I flush it every time I use it with salt away. Now salt off. I changed the internal anodes and they were full of corrosion and salt. It really surprised me how much it had inside of the water passages. I wonder how much worse it would be if I didn’t use the salt away. I changed all fluids every year no matter if the engine oil change timer light is on or off. I really want to see what happens when you run the salt off through the engine.
I would love to see someone invent a Fuel Injection system for the 115 & 130hp 2 strokes engines. I would buy it now, carbs burn twice the gas as FI engines. My 130hp is 24 years old and going strong, so I want to keep it as long as possible. The price of a new 4 stroke engine is a bunch and budget crusher! Thanks for the detail instructions on your video.
You're welcome
I just had to change my oil tank sensor and harness. The alarm where off on me .
Heat or take the pump off the grease gun and pour some oil and try pumping that in with heat.
I have a ‘99 OX66 150 and the service manual shows several anodes under the cylinder head. Have you ever had the remove a head a replace those anodes?
Depends on where you use it, saltwater, not a bad idea to do so, but at this point in time, you might be opening a can of worms pulling those bolts
Realistically - what speed should an older (2007) 90hp 2 stroke reach at full?
What do you mean speed? You mean RPM, roughly 5400, 5500 is the max, speed is totally dependant on prop and boat set up
Great videos, I’ve got a 96 2stroke 40 hp Mariner & can’t find a video on the how too’s to get the engine cover off, can ya help?
Hey! Rose here, helping Aaron with comments. What a great topic! It's headed for our podcast feature list. If you haven't listened yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Why don't you use degreaser to soften up the old grease and even help clean off the other bits?
1988 Mercury Classic 50
I've got a 90s model yamaha that recently ate something on the bottom cylinder. Would a rebuild be worth it or get a new motor
Depends on a couple of things. Obviously price and availability of stuff.
If the rest of the engine looks good, like the lower unit, the trim unit, and other parts on the engine, like most of them are in good shape and are going to last, that is a check for the rebuild.
Is there someone around you or are you able to do the rebuild? Depending on if you or someone you know can do a rebuild, how long will it take, how much will that cost, that factors.
Or is there the availability of the parts to do a rebuild? Or maybe you could find a used powerhead or a new or remanned powerhead? What would that cost? And how long would it take?
Based on that, those will get you to a pretty good idea of what it would cost, and if it would be worth doing it. Then compare that to a new engine, and how long it would take to get it done. Also, what's your money look like? If you got the money and don't want to mess with it, new, if money's kinda tight, but you got most of the other stuff for a rebuild, rebuild it :)
90's Yamahas are super reliable, but, they are getting older and older and parts start to fail often with this type of age, so, lots of variable here lol hope this helps
Great Answer - You are a Boater’s Best Resource!
One other possibility to consider would be to find a used engine with a bad lower end or seized steering.
Hello. Love your videos. They’re great!
I have a question if you don’t mind offering your expertise. I have this same motor. Under load mine does like 10mph full throttle, in the water. Out of water it throttles high and normal. Have any idea what it could be?
Hi there! This is Rose. Thank you so much for your comment! Unfortunately, I don't have the answer to your specific question. We find it's best to address these inquiries one-on-one. That's why we've introduced a channel membership, where we discuss these topics weekly in live sessions. If this sounds appealing, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated!
Love it. Thanks brother
About 5 years ago I got an old 89 150 Evinrude XP. The first thing I did was throw the VRO oil pump in the trash. I premix my fuel with no issues. What oil do you guy recommend for old Evinrudes? Is synthetic blend good?
Most outboard oils are all a synthetic blends so for sure they are good. I'd say to keep doing what you have been doing for the last 5 years, seems like it's working great! Normally we tend to recommend branded oil, Evinrudes get Evinrude, Yami's get Yamaha's, Mercury's get Mercury's. RevX oil makes a really good oil too though.
@@BornAgainBoating Thank you Sir. This is what I’ve been wondering about. Spent the entire weekend out on the lake and the old Evinrude ran great.
Just replaced my tiller arm pivot last year on my 96 yam 150. Corrosion on the steel arm was bad.
In dropping the lower unit of my 2 stroke 25hp Yamaha, the trickiest part is detaching the shift linkage. Beware!
Great video as always. Do you have any suggestions for spark plug sockets? My sockets will not fit my 4-stroke Suzuki
Hi there! This is Rose. Thank you so much for your comment! Unfortunately, I don't have the answer to your specific question. We find it's best to address these inquiries one-on-one. That's why we've introduced a channel membership, where we discuss these topics weekly in live sessions. If this sounds appealing, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated!
Find a socket that does fit!
Great Tips, Thanks for sharing.👍
I have a 1991 Mercruiser 150 on my 1991 ProCraft 180 Combo. The boat has very low hours (less than 200). Would you be able to do a how to on a similar engine? Right off the bat to me there are differences between the Yamaha and the Mercruiser.
Look for those grease fittings on the Merc???
I took the thermostats out of my Yam 150- assume that will be ok?
For a while, depends on what water you run in, if the water is cold you'll want them thermostats back in there to control temp.
CorrosionX spray is top notch
I always heard those motors are great engines I picked up a 75HP going to be putting on a skiff I have cant wait
love the channel and everything that is in the video except for him saying remove the oil pump, I know where he gets his misconception from but ever two -stroke with a VRO that has seized or blown up that I have seen has indeed not been caused by low oil or inadequate oil flow they were all caused by some other less obvious reason. Again love the channel but just wanted to through that out there.
Snap On wrenches……….nice!
❤ Yamaha enduro
May have missed it but what kind of Grease
Just some marine grease, I like Evinrude Triple Guard or Mercury 24C or Yamalube
What kind of silicone spray to like to use? You mentioned crc but that can you had was crc I thought? Can you provide a link of what you like?
CRC is a company that manufactures many types of lubricants and sprays.
You just need to go to say an auto supplies store and choose the right one. They even make a lube spray for marine environments called 2.66
I put 5000 hrs on this motor
Sold it running like new
In general are early 1990s 2 stroke 225 Yamahas worth keeping alive? I got twins that came with my boat and have had some issues with them. Wondering if in general it's worth it to continue to help them live?
They will last a very long time if you keep the maintenance up...as per this vid.
What has been the major concern with your setup?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk My current issue is that after I run them for say 40 minutes, they start building a whitish blue milky residue on the throats of the carbs (more so on the lowest ones) the kind I've read most say is due to humidity, condensation, etc.
After a while it seems it builds so much that one engine, or the other, will die and will have hard starts, or not start again, until I get to the dock and clean them off that residue. I'm using new fuel filters, new fuel water separators (the old ones had water in them, but checked the new ones last time it happened and there was no water in them. I also added gas conditioner to my ethanol gas. I also had just cleaned all carbs before last time it happened and drained the bowls, after use, hoping it'll do them some good. Each engine has its own dedicated tank.
So I'll go Monday to see how they do this time, hoping that with repeated use it'll stop happening?
@@mikesolns1364
Look at the air passages from the cowling intake to the carb intakes.
Look for a spray of water from say the thermostat housing/pee hole..you can't see it under the cover of course when the engine is running.
If that residue is there in the throats BEFORE the jets it's being brought in with the air,,,,not the fuel.
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Awesome help. I'll check that. I suspect also my cowling seals are letting water seep in, as they don't look tight enough. And when I'm in the water running them, most of the time I see the pushed out water around the engines, above the cowling seals level. Could that be causing it too? If yes how does that even get addressed? Thanks in advance
Do you have to index the plugs, is it necessary, better ?
pretty sure you do not need to do this on a Yamaha 2 stroke
Indexing not required on this motor.
Any tips for a 60tlrz with a persistent overheat alarm despite new impellers, new water pump housing, a muriatic acid rinse through the water jacket and even a full disassembly of the water jacket? It is clean as can be and is a fresh water motor but will alarm if let sitting at courtesy dock or when idling after coming off plane. Tell-tale is not strong at idle but it never has been and have read yamahas have notoriously low water pressure at idle/neutral.
Check the water intake for the cooling system...
if water can't get in at idle...at speed the speed actually helps force water in....
clear all the passages into the pump...check wear on the pump housing?
Good video but from my experience owning two strokes with oil injection,the oil pump commonly fails on these engines especially Suzukis.The best thing to do is bypass the oil pump connecting the hoses together and running the engine 50:1 gas to oil ratio.All oil injection does is give the engine less oil at Idle and low speed creating less smoke,also making it a leaner fuel ratio.Failure of the oil pump if not noticed in time(light off)can be catastrophic to the engine.Yes,more carbon will develop on tops of pistons and inside of cylinder head but no matter what if the motor came with oil injection or not,the cylinder head should be removed and cleaned of carbon periodically along with a mild wire wheel mounted to drill to remove carbon off of top of Pistons, reassembled with new head gasket.The cleaning is what will assure very long engine life.
The yamaha outboards don't send oil through the carbs to gunk them up, it mixes the oil on the backside of the carb, the mechanical oil pumps rarely fail on the yamaha, keep it lubed it will last forever, and your carbs won't need cleaning all the time like if you premix and let it sit for awhile.
Awesome video!!
Why didn’t you show it running?
At the end of the video ???
What type of grease do you recommend?