How to Make Finger Joints on a Table Saw with a Single Blade - DIY JIG
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- To make finger joints without a dado stack on a table saw is very simple.
All you need is a set of wooden blocks with exact measurements and a cross cut sled. The dimensions of the finger joints in this video is 20 mm. The black block is 20 mm minus the thickness of my saw blade.
Here is a second video about this method in German with English subtitles:
• Wie stellt man Fingerz...
If you have any questions please write it in the comment section. I will answer every single one.
If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, if not please give it a thumbs down and let me know whats wrong, in the comment section.
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* MUSIC IN THIS VIDEO*
is from the UA-cam Audio Library #DIYJIG #Vorrichtung #selbermachen
This video is very inspiring to me for two main reasons: 1) very simple and easy to follow in its presentation; 2) you are the first wood worker so far that uses beautiful music on the background--Vivaldi. That has been my big problem in following certain woodworkers that have the noisiest and depressing music ever. Thank you for everything. Keep up the good work.
It is Johann Strauss, Danube Waltz ("Donauwalzer"), not Vivaldi. But anyway, that music is absolutely fine, and Pöhnlein is one of my favorites.
That's a good method. If only I could get my saw to sound like an orchestra too
Thanks for this funny comment :)
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD modest!
Stephan Pöhnlein very good class! Learn too much today!
@ ...only if it is Musically Sound Too !!! Lol !
Finally someone who uses a wonderful music as background and doesn't waste time talking. Of course I have enjoyed also your method for finger joint which I found sooooo simple but very, very efficient. Very inspired indeed. Thank you. Keep up with Vivaldi or any other baroque composers and I will be coming back.
This video is great. I just got into wood working and I really wanted to try making finger joints on my next build but couldn't justify buying dado blades after I just bought a table saw and a bunch of other stuff. Thanks for the straight forward video. I love it.
Thank you!
The best method n the easiest method🎉🎉🎉🎉
I join the clamour for how to make the spacer blocks, please, ASAP please. You make the best videos, with the best ideas. Great stuff, no waffle, just well presented material.
Thank you! A video how I made this blocks coming soon!
Are you still planning on a followup video?
Yes, the video is on my list!
When the video how to make the spoacer comming up ?
I really like your ideas, and I would like to put on practice, just show us how to make it
Thank you
Have you made the spacer block video yet?
The simplicity of this method is what makes it genius!
I found your video for the beautiful wooden box you made with wooden hinges and was so curious about your table saw setup, I must have watched that video 5 times. I read on and was thrilled to see you linked to this post and I cannot tell you how excited I am! Can't wait to watch some more of your , you make it all look so easy. The song was definitely fitting.
Thank you very much for making this video, the subtitled additional one and sharing your pdf table. I've used your method to build a guitar cabinet (quite big compared to boxes and drawers) and the results were impressive. Again, thank you for sharing this!
😊
Brilliant ! Simple and straight to the point.
Thank you for your video it's very enlightening for sure. I will choose your straight forward design as I have to make a few bee boxes. I've used a jigsaw up till now but I'll be having a go at saving time as well as adding a bit more accuracy to the box joints. Many other joiners/cabinet makers go for complicated contraptions...... after enjoying your video I feel there's no need to complicate things?
exactly the video i needed. THanks.
So simple, it's ingenious!
The best so far I’ve seen with single blade...fab ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks again, Here is a second video about this method in German with English subtitles:
ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
Excelente música, gracias por compartir.
Excellent idea. Thanks for the idea for the spacers. Well done, good sir.
Thank you :-)
Ingenioso y práctico el vídeo, muchas gracias por compartir tan práctico conocimiento . Dios le Bendiga.
Praktische und einfache Lösung. Vielen Dank fürs Teilen.
Danke fürs Kommentieren :)
At last some decent music on a video !!!
Perfect.
Very simple and very effective. Great sharing please
Thanks for your excellent video, I've been looking for a good video on how to do this with a single blade for some time, I also like the idea of the tray holding all of the spacers, I just need to see your video showing how to make the spacers and the tray. Once again, thanks for the excellent video, Keith...
Thank you for your nice comment.
I assume the spacers are a simple matter of setting up a rip fence then checking the dimensions with a micrometer, sanding to adjust if necessary. Something like an incra-jig or perfectly calibrated rip fence would help.
Great ideas as always Stephan. Very grateful for the recommendation of my channel!!
Thank you Mikel, I hope it helps :)
Great method with accurate spacers! I've subscribed and will be watching the channel!
Thank you and welcome to my channel.
It works one of the oldest ways of doing it do the sides together and front and back together cuts the time in half lol
That's right!
Here is a second video about this method in German with English subtitles:
ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
Do you like it, you can support me:
www.patreon.com/stephanpoehnlein
Genius! You solved the problem for me. Thanks!
I'd recommend using the stub in a board method over this. No need to make any small parts and lose them.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you for sharing. LOVED the music also.
Thank you!
Dear Stephan I 'll be box jointing 4 beehive boxes very soon. Please can you advise, is it feasible to pull the work towards 'the operator' so that the cuts can be seen? This of course means the operator standing/working on the opposite side to pushing. The boards would be about 510mm x 410mm lengths x 150mm wide so would interfere with seeing the cuts. I don't like using a mirror same as I used to have to do welding on the odd occasion. using a mirror would have serious implications re the danger of the blade which I don't want to get near!
Interesting. I expected that your spacing would be off by one kerf width per tail, but it seems that the joins were fairly tight and racking was not nearly as bad as I expected when you were assembling the box. Looks good!
Thank you for your comment.
Very good job.. if you add a playing card to your first cut with the spacers...this will give you a few thou and give you a better fit with the glue, not so crazy tight...😉
Thank you, this is a good idea!
very nicely done! like it a lot,i wonder if u have a video of the stop blocks making:) would love to make it and thank u so very much. Best wishes from India
Thank you for your comment. A video how I made this blocks coming soon!
Stephan Pöhnlein , looking forward to that video :), thank u
Easily the best method on UA-cam, and effortlessly so. Thanks heaps!
Ich werde diese Methode benutzen um eine neue Zuhause für meine Bienen zu bauen.
I love it! it's a very smart method, thanks for sharing and greetings from Madrid.
Thank you!
Guten Tag ,
Welche Abstandhalter haben sie verwendet 2,4,6,8 ?
Nur die vier ????
nice ,and a cool idea with the drawer
Thank you pieter!
another brilliant workflow, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for your comment
Great method, and you have an amazing looking shop!
Great idea, great video, well presented, skill with no frills.....well done.
Thank you!
Forgive what maybe a less than intelligent question but.....are all blocks a set size minus the blade width?
Or is it just the smaller "finger" size joint blocks. Maybe I am over thinking this but would love to try your system.
The blocks are exact 1, 2,, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, ... cm
one block is 1.5 cm for 1.5 cm finger joints
the black blocks are smaller by the thickness of the saw blade (=sb)
for 1 cm fingers you need a block=1-sb
for 1.5 cm fingers you need a block=1.5-sb
for 2 cm fingers you need a block=2-sb
I hope, this helps. A video with exact explanation coming soon.
Thanks for your prompt reply. Your explanation helps a lot, thanks. Being retired I'm going to my workshop now to get started.
Looking forward to the video. Enjoying your other videos too. An inspiration to those of us who can't afford expensive jigs and
machines.
consider a magnet 4mm or 5mm on the spacer ,, thank U
Very good Method!
Thanks :-)
for clarity, if the joints end up loose then the kerf block is too big? In order for a tighter fit of the joints make the kerf block smaller?
You're absolutely right. But don't make it smaller make a second one. Then you can use this for wooden hinges.
I just made this set, and it worked great, EXCEPT, i have a 1/32 gap around my piece once i put it together... I gather this is due to something being off by just a little bit... but off hand would this mean my 1/2", 1" 2" 3" pieces are off, or my 1/2" - kerf spacer? I'm making a finger joint with 1.5" long fingers. THANKS in advance!
Hi Matthew, I guess your kerf spacer is a tiny bit to small, You can use this one for making wooden hinges. For a tight fit add a piece of paper to it.
Sorry, this was wrong the kerf spacer is to big not to small, make it a little bit smaller!
Great music too.
:-)
Is it possible to put many blades together?
Guten Abend from the U.S. I love this technique and subscribed to your channel because of it. It is all very informative. I had one question about your process, at the 29 second mark in your video, as you are beginning to make your first cut, why do you cut a small sliver off the right side of the board? I am starting to make finger joints and was wondering if this was attributed to your form or something else. Thanks so much for the great content.
Hi Justin Tucker, thanks for subscribing. If it is not clear in this video perhaps the following will help
it's in German with English subtitles:
ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
If you still have questions, just ask again.
Hello again, yes I did watch the video that you linked to in the description. I made some different cuts and worked out the problem from your templates here. "From the shoulders of giants" so to speak lol. Thanks again for the great content.
So 20mm-blade thickness, 20mm, 40mm, 60mm, 80mm... (in theory you can also stack them to go farther). I'm curious how you make this work for 15 and 10mm without making a new set/additional blocks unless you make a 5mm and 10mm spacer... 20mm seems like kind of big box joint fingers.
I may have to do this in .4", .5", 1", 1.5", 2"... (being in the US and most of my table saw blades are .1" thick), but I bet that this would work great without the spacer and with a dado stack the width of your fingers...
The 20 mm are for 3/4" (19 mm) boards, 15 mm for 2/3" (16 mm) boards and 10 mm for 1/2" (12-10 mm) boards.
The set contains blocks from 1 to 12 cm and a 1,5 cm block plus three black blocks with (1 cm minus the thickness of the saw blade) and (1,5 cm minus the thickness of the saw blade) and (2cm minus the thickness of the saw blade). But I will make a video where I explain the details. These box was made with the 1 cm finger joints:
ua-cam.com/video/lJKi2rwASyI/v-deo.html
Stephan, can you tell me if your saw teeth are at 90 degrees to the blade or bevelled slightly. I've made a few of these joints but my saw blade points are bevelled which results in the cuts being the same. I've checked on UK suppliers to find that all available blades are carbide-tipped and slightly pointed. I'm tempted to try to grind a blade to approximately 90 degrees in an effort to overcome this issue. What do you think? Finally, great simple jig and result.
Hi James, I guess it bothers you that the bottom of the cut isn't flat. There are two ways to do this: firstly, move the nut carefully back and forth at the highest point of the saw blade. Second, use a chisel. If this wasn't the problem, please ask again.
So the small black spacer is the width of the finger minus the kerf of the blade is that correct? Nice method
Yes, this correct.
this would probably be more stable on a sled
Brilliant idea🖒
Thank you
Love it, can i get the actual sizes of the blocks? Thanks
Thank you. I made a table for these blocks drive.google.com/file/d/0B37_P3mhPXxKZXlubUpkdEVqV2c/view
I hope it helps.
Wieder einmal absolut stark. Ich bin begeistert. 👌👌👌
Gruß Ingo
Vielen Dank Ingo 😉
good job Thanks
Thank you :)
Great video, thank you for the good idea!
does the numbers on the spacers represent the size by inch?
except the black ones of course
Thank you. The numbers are cm!
Great , i am going to use this method , but i won't change my clothes 3 times in less then 6 minutes .
:)
Awesome ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍
Thank you :-)
great idea, nice video and smart maker 😉
Thank you!
What are the measurements of the blocks?
drive.google.com/file/d/0B37_P3mhPXxKZXlubUpkdEVqV2c/view?resourcekey=0-fa1fX6UlSUXn4-MvG2msNw
What model table saw do use?
nice vid!
Thank you
schnell und einfach Fingerzinken gesägt.....man könnte diese Art aber auch auf dem Schiebeschlittenverwenden.....
Daumen hoch
lg Rene
Ps.deine Messklötzchen erinnern mich bisschen an die Veritas® Set-Up Blocks
Danke Rene! Dein neuer Schiebeschlitten ist dafür super geeignet!
vor einer Zeit habe ich mir die Vorrichtung für Fingerzinken von John Heisz nachgebaut
www.1-2-do.com/de/projekt/Fingerzinkenvorrichtung-mit-der-TKS/bauanleitung-zum-selber-bauen/4004477/
Die Vorrichtungen von John Heisz oder von Mathias Wandel sind natürlich super. Allerdings sind sie nicht ganz einfach zu bauen. Diese hier ist vermutlich an Einfachheit nicht zu schlagen und jeder der einen Schiebeschlitten hat kann sofort loslegen auch wenn er kein Genie ist :)
schönes Video! Gute Musikwahl!stell mir vor das ist eine gute Vorrichtung für jemand der wenig Zinken macht aber trotzdem zügig zum Ziel kommen will
Dankeschön! Stimmt das ist was für Bastler, die gelegentlich mal eine Schachtel oder Schublade bauen möchten.
You really should mention somewhere that the thikness of the white blocks are multiple integers of the thickness of the desired box joint cutout size and that the black block is the size of the desired box joint cutout minus the blade kerf plus tolerance.
Oh, I see now that you mention this in the description.
somewhere is here: ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
with English subtitles
Andy PeeDee what the hell kind of response is this? What is your point? And who or what is this single word directed toward?
Andy PeeDee integers? What are you talking about? You don't even make sense when you speak/write. I'm not going to respond to your brainless comments anymore. Have a nice day sir.
Wie diese Blöckchen Sammlung genau entstanden ist, auch mit Massen, würde mich auch interessieren. Ansonsten geht das schon sehr in die Richtung der einfachen und für meine TKS umsetzbaren Lösung, nach der ich suche.
Da hab ich leider zu viel rausgeschnitten, werde aber ein Video machen wo ich das nochmal genau erklär!
Reinhard Decker da kann ich mich nur anschließen. Freue mich schon auf das "Erklärvideo" 😃👍🏻
Existiert angesprochene Video zur Erstellung der Blöckchen schon? Ich kanns nicht finden.
hier gibt's die Erklärung ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
Is that a Festool table? If it is, why not just use the router table insert?
Is it a good idea to demonstrate, How to Make Finger Joints on a Table Saw with a Single Blade, and then using the router?
Great!
Nice!!
:-)
Einfach genial
Gruß Ingo
Vielen Dank :)
Stephan Pöhnlein ... bist abonniert. 😉
Gruß Ingo
😉
Me again... So, I just want to double check my process... I want 1/2" fingers, across a 2x4 (1.5" x 3.5" nom.). so, one board will be, 4, grooves, 3 fingers, and then 4 fingers, 3 groove, each 1/2". My process is,
For the 4 groove piece. line up my piece covering over the cut in the sled. Trim off the kerf on the outside, insert the kerf spacer (KS), cut. remove the KS, add the 1", cut, add the KS, cut. Remove the KS and the 1" spacer, add the 2", cut, add the KS, cut. Remove the KS, add the 1" (so that I now have a 2" and a 1") cut. Then cut out the inner parts.
Switch boards for the 4 finger, 3 groove. All spacers removed, Add the 1/2" spacer, cut, add the KS, cut, remove the KS, add the 1" spacer (i never take out the 1/2" spacer for this piece) cut, add the KS, cut, remove the 1" spacer, and the KS, add the 2" spacer, cut, add the KS, cut... trim out the inner parts...
Does this sound right?
Hi Matthew, I made a second video about this process here ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html It is in German but I think you will understand this. Under this video you find a pdf-file where you can see how the blocks are used.
Thanks, I also was able to get my hands on a digital caliper. my 1/2" and 1" spacers are 1/64 too big. which likely means my KS, is also off a "smidge".. my 2" block is EXACT! gonna tighten these up first, then run some more test boards, thanks again!
Could you please share the dimensions of spacers you have made
Here is a second video about this method in German with English subtitles:
ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
box joints. finger joints are smaller
Why not use a router instead of a saw and it would be much quicker.
Although quicker, even with a sacrificial backer board and depending upon the material a router creates a lot more tear out.
I don't think so!!!
Great music. Lack of explanation, not so much...
Here is a second video about this method in German with English subtitles:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX8bK...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
next time talk some and forget the music
Do you mean like so: ua-cam.com/video/MX8bKZ3YBqc/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for posting this explanation. My Deutsche is pretty bad, but subtitles with translation turned on and some patience made this extremely useful to me. Tomorrow my son and I will set forth to make a full set of these blocks at various dimensions for a project we are working on. Assuming all goes well, you will have saved us a huge amount of time and error!