Yes, it does take a bit of time to fine tune the fit, so be prepared on a day to do a lot of cutting. Get your stock prepped ahead. I usually made my own bee hive boxes, had all the parts ready to cut and labeled parts before I turned on saw. Great fun and satisfying.
As someone who has messed up the adjoining sides for finger/box joints, I never even thought to pencil in the right areas to cut. Thanks for the video and tip!
Looked at a bunch of videos on how to make box joints and yours was the best... made it very easy to understand. Will be using this information on my my Rolls Royce I am building from scratch. Thanks for nice video..
Perhaps not the best but amongst the best would be a little more accurate considering I have watched many over the years and used to teach these techniques.
I really like the sacrificial board to reduce tear-out - really necessary with 1/2 " plywood - but you got the jig gap correction backwards - just the opposite is correct - William NG explains it and uses a feeler gauge and calipers to set the exact correction in his box joint video. NG is a master woodworker and teaches at a school.
This is great! I’ve not seen anyone make large panels with box joints until your video. I have a project that is 18”w x 10”h x 10”d; this video is exactly what I needed! New subscriber here!
He's wrong about that dude. If the joint is to tight, move the pin closer to the blade by a fraction. What you are doing is making the fingers slightly less wide, hence, they will fit easier in the slots.
Correcto - yes he is wrong, got it backwards - watch William NG's box joint video - he uses a feeler gauge and calipers to set the perfect gap - but I sure like this guy's sacrifical board addition - that really helps with plywood
Your editing is getting awesome Eric! Your channel used to remind me a lot of Foureyes and Shaun Boyd-style but now it's taken on a life of its own. I just got a dado stack last week and I've been enjoying it. Probably gonna have to do some box joints myself soon
Hey, great video! I liked this one of yours in particular because you came across as more authoritative, explaining why certain steps are needed and how to correct things if they're not right with your jig set-up. It's a good direction and hope you keep that up. Should get more viewers and subs that way.
Thanks for checking it out! My goal is to break down certain aspects of builds into separate videos because if I go into this level of detail on every single aspect during a build, the videos would be hours long and no one would watch that lol
I really appreciate how you take the time to explain how to fix errors with box joints. One question, is there a system for naming the pieces or corners you plan to join that will avoid the kind of error you showed might happen? I know - paying attention is the #1 way to avoid dumb mistakes. I got caught by this issue when I used the wrong finger on one edge of a finished piece as a spacer to start a side piece. It wasn't exactly 1/2 inch so the side piece ended up being off by this amount all the way down the workpiece. I will donate through Patreon. I appreciate you not having a ton of ads coming up.
Thanks for checking out the video, Bernard! Honestly, I just label the joints that are touching each other with the same letter. “A” joins with “A” and “B” joins with “B”
thank you Spencley . question please the box has front and back both same size with a right and left sides . can you group up front and back and cut them at the same time . same with the right and left side ???. got to make a blanket chest for daughters wedding . front n back 36" x right an left sides 24" help . i am so new to this
great video. thanks for explaining what to do if they are too tight or loose and the models really helped.I understood why you turned the first panel around but why did you turn the second one around?
The too loose and too tight explanation was opposite of what is said in the video. If it is too tight you need to move the pin closer to the blade to reduce the thickness of the finger. The gap is constant so think of it as adjusting the amount that you move the piece over to make the finger. The less you shift it the smaller the finger.
Eric, can I buy and send you a NEW flush trim saw, good sir? I can’t afford a lot, but I can afford that much. As a thank you for your outstanding videos. I look forward to each and every one and you’ve taught me a lot. If this is something you would be ok with, let me know. Yes, I know you’re an Engineer in your day job and could probably afford a thousand flush trim saws. But I would like to do so, just the same. Thank you again!
I like the fact that you don't show me how rewarding and easy woodworking is with a million dollar shop. When a UA-camr's workshop looks like he/she had to take out a mortgage to pay for it, that turns me off to that channel, and will usually get a thumbs down. Most of us work in garage shops with used tools we bought at garage sales and on ebay. Your tips speak to us.
My box joint jig is different, it uses a threaded rod to index the panels. It can be used with a regular table saw blade. I like to use a box joint blade though, not a dado for two reasons - flat bottoms and can be set to either 3/8 or 1/4 just by flipping the blades. Very accurate, just have to count turns of the rod. I can turn out a box with any size fingers in about twenty minutes.
You're wrong about moving the pin, if the fingers are to tight you move the pin TOWARD the blade not away from it. You want the width of the fingers to be smaller, hence, by going toward the blade you are shaving a small amount off, making them thinner so that they will go together easier. Nice vid though ( other than that ).
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Yes, it does take a bit of time to fine tune the fit, so be prepared on a day to do a lot of cutting. Get your stock prepped ahead. I usually made my own bee hive boxes, had all the parts ready to cut and labeled parts before I turned on saw. Great fun and satisfying.
As someone who has messed up the adjoining sides for finger/box joints, I never even thought to pencil in the right areas to cut. Thanks for the video and tip!
Thanks for checking out the video, John! Glad it was helpful
Looked at a bunch of videos on how to make box joints and yours was the best... made it very easy to understand. Will be using this information on my my Rolls Royce I am building from scratch. Thanks for nice video..
Perhaps not the best but amongst the best would be a little more accurate considering I have watched many over the years and used to teach these techniques.
I really like the sacrificial board to reduce tear-out - really necessary with 1/2 " plywood - but you got the jig gap correction backwards - just the opposite is correct - William NG explains it and uses a feeler gauge and calipers to set the exact correction in his box joint video. NG is a master woodworker and teaches at a school.
This is great! I’ve not seen anyone make large panels with box joints until your video. I have a project that is 18”w x 10”h x 10”d; this video is exactly what I needed! New subscriber here!
Thanks for watching, Scott!
i think if its too loose, the gap between the blade and the short piece of wood should be bigger?
He's wrong about that dude. If the joint is to tight, move the pin closer to the blade by a fraction. What you are doing is making the fingers slightly less wide, hence, they will fit easier in the slots.
Correcto - yes he is wrong, got it backwards - watch William NG's box joint video - he uses a feeler gauge and calipers to set the perfect gap - but I sure like this guy's sacrifical board addition - that really helps with plywood
Your editing is getting awesome Eric! Your channel used to remind me a lot of Foureyes and Shaun Boyd-style but now it's taken on a life of its own.
I just got a dado stack last week and I've been enjoying it. Probably gonna have to do some box joints myself soon
Thanks, David! I’m really trying to shake things up and develop my own style. Maybe one of these days I’ll bring some traffic to my channel 🤣
Dado stacks not available in the UK, so can’t do this at all.
Hey, great video! I liked this one of yours in particular because you came across as more authoritative, explaining why certain steps are needed and how to correct things if they're not right with your jig set-up. It's a good direction and hope you keep that up. Should get more viewers and subs that way.
Thanks for checking it out! My goal is to break down certain aspects of builds into separate videos because if I go into this level of detail on every single aspect during a build, the videos would be hours long and no one would watch that lol
I really appreciate how you take the time to explain how to fix errors with box joints. One question, is there a system for naming the pieces or corners you plan to join that will avoid the kind of error you showed might happen? I know - paying attention is the #1 way to avoid dumb mistakes. I got caught by this issue when I used the wrong finger on one edge of a finished piece as a spacer to start a side piece. It wasn't exactly 1/2 inch so the side piece ended up being off by this amount all the way down the workpiece. I will donate through Patreon. I appreciate you not having a ton of ads coming up.
Thanks for checking out the video, Bernard! Honestly, I just label the joints that are touching each other with the same letter. “A” joins with “A” and “B” joins with “B”
I can’t get the corners right, I flip the board and flipped the second board like you did and it never comes out right, I’m an idiot I guess
thank you Spencley . question please the box has front and back both same size with a right and left sides . can you group up front and back and cut them at the same time . same with the right and left side ???. got to make a blanket chest for daughters wedding . front n back 36" x right an left sides 24" help . i am so new to this
great video. thanks for explaining what to do if they are too tight or loose and the models really helped.I understood why you turned the first panel around but why did you turn the second one around?
So that the pins aligned
The too loose and too tight explanation was opposite of what is said in the video. If it is too tight you need to move the pin closer to the blade to reduce the thickness of the finger. The gap is constant so think of it as adjusting the amount that you move the piece over to make the finger. The less you shift it the smaller the finger.
Hi Do you measure the width and then figure finger widths so top and bottom are equal widths?
Gotta love the Blue Jackets T.
That is why I do not use a tablesaw to cut figure joints rather use a router
Very useful jig!
It’s a fun thing to try, but I don’t think I’ll use it again 🤣
Bro.,!!! How did I miss 3 videos!!! Gonna get caught up now. Hoping all is well Eric, Dirty Jersey out!!
I hope you enjoy them!
@@SpencleyDesignCo ALWAYS do👍👍👍
You’re the man!
Measure twice. Cut once
Wow! You upped your video making to the power of 10. At least. Very cool!
Much better than my earlier videos, eh? 🤣
QUE MARAVILLA,
GRACIAS POR LAS RECOMENDACIONES
BUEN VIDEO
Eric, can I buy and send you a NEW flush trim saw, good sir? I can’t afford a lot, but I can afford that much. As a thank you for your outstanding videos. I look forward to each and every one and you’ve taught me a lot. If this is something you would be ok with, let me know. Yes, I know you’re an Engineer in your day job and could probably afford a thousand flush trim saws. But I would like to do so, just the same. Thank you again!
Awesome video 👍
Thanks Matthys!!
I like the fact that you don't show me how rewarding and easy woodworking is with a million dollar shop. When a UA-camr's workshop looks like he/she had to take out a mortgage to pay for it, that turns me off to that channel, and will usually get a thumbs down. Most of us work in garage shops with used tools we bought at garage sales and on ebay. Your tips speak to us.
Dude. Your meta-edits are like the dad-puns of video editing. 💯👍🏻
Should I take that as a compliment? Lol
@@SpencleyDesignCo Definitely!
Well thanks! Check out my first videos…those were pretty bad 🤣
Great video, but not a lot of good for UK, where dado stacks are very rare.
You could do the exact same thing with a router table
My box joint jig is different, it uses a threaded rod to index the panels. It can be used with a regular table saw blade. I like to use a box joint blade though, not a dado for two reasons - flat bottoms and can be set to either 3/8 or 1/4 just by flipping the blades. Very accurate, just have to count turns of the rod. I can turn out a box with any size fingers in about twenty minutes.
You're wrong about moving the pin, if the fingers are to tight you move the pin TOWARD the blade not away from it. You want the width of the fingers to be smaller, hence, by going toward the blade you are shaving a small amount off, making them thinner so that they will go together easier. Nice vid though ( other than that ).
Yeah, other than getting it exactly wrong, nice vid, though fricken useless! Thanks for wasting my time.
We have to decide, are you a showman or a woodworker?
Neither… insufferable is what he is.
9:08
The video clips are so annoying.
But that Blue Jackets shirt though.... 🤮
I agree, they’re horrible at ice hockey 🤣
@@SpencleyDesignCo As a Kraken fan, I have zero room to talk haha
I’m used to living around sports teams that are garbage 🤣
Please try to make the click-bait titles have at least _something_ to do with the content.
Yeah like box joint lol
Box joints are not stronger than dovetails. Full stop.
When did he say it was. Plus I real don't think that makes a difference
So, why do people still use these?
Fairly snuggly... man this guys vocab is silly
Why?
I am now gonna refer to date nite with the wife as "hogging out some material"