Great video few wear and tear issues but love my Ford Focus 07 1.6 tdi just about to stick in some cleaner that I got from Halfords for £16.99 best they had. To clean out the jets plus other bits. One thing about the Ford Focus I know I can jump in it and drive 1200 miles with no problems and no issues sitting at 158.000 miles and use it every day...
great video & very useful. Bought a focus 1.6 tdci no warning lights on what so ever. Replaced the turbo after doing all the recommendations regarding ie taking the sump off. new oil feed pipes strainers etc etc. Cars still in limp mode (the turbo had done 100000 miles so thought i would replace it regarding the limp mode) Went to a garage to book it in for a diagnostics & was told £ 80 surcharge plus 2 weeks to wait. Thought sod it will buy the diagnostic tool & do it myself....... Looks like the engines been remapped though as there were no ports off the cat. Fingers crossed ;-) ref to the video regarding the DPF filter the garage did say they would not fail the car for a conversion like this as the exhaust gasses are well within the recommended emissions Plus you get better fuel economy & better BHP
Hi ya, hope you get the problem sorted out, at the moment their are no laws about removing the DPF, I did think about having it done, but a new law is coming out I forget the date but I am sure it's this year some time, which means any car that has had it removed will fail the MOT, so I would advise against it, Are you sure the problem is the DPF, did you get a code on your scanner telling you the fault was the DPF, because their are other faults that would put the car into limp home mode.
Taking it to a specialist Monday, bought the maxi code reader but no codes were showing, the EGR is reading ok so fingers crossed might be either an injector fault but with no codes showing this specialist has the equipment to check this. I am happy to do all changes & turbo but haven't got a clue when it comes to injectors. This car hasn't got a DPF installed just a CAT regards Dean
Poured Oil to Diesel, a mixture of 1/50 of full tank with oil W05-40. It went good for 2 months but had very frequent short journeys, finally it said engine problem and went into limp mode. So, I had already got this issue 3 months earlier and my Bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 with TorquePro android app said it was glowplugs, changed all 4 cleared ecu fault codes, fixed. This tame, same thing happened and I thought something bad was with the glowplugs regulator, but after reading fault codes, it said Diesel Particulate Ash Accumulation fault code. Poured in x20 times more than recommended fuel additive (which boosts engine and cleans engine) and drove ~50km between 3-4 gear revved at 3.000 - 3.7000rpm, and gave it a short rest every 25km, and when I came back, I let it idle for a few min so the turbo cools down, engine cools down properly, and cleared fault codes, restarted engine voila! Problem gone! Went again for a tour of 30km this time and it became out of limp mode, so i revved engine to 4.000rpm maximum rpm in 4 gear, and it lasted few second in 4.000rpm before engine stalled. My theory is engine was hot and soot hot glowing hot and caused the fuel that is injected into combustion chamber to pre-combust before at right position, engine sensed this and immediately stopped the injectors to inject any more fuel. The additive made the diesel very thin too, so it became extra flamable, after starting engine again it came back to life. And guys, the tank had extra oil in, so I had to add more additive to make it thin so its flamable to create high temperature. It went nice, filled tank with 2 gallons of fuel and went home. So far no problem, I suggest to never pour oil in a DPF-mounted modern diesel car. Also, its not good to drive on town, if you work on a long way which you drive through highway, then a little bit oil shall help thicken the oil for more economy, but if you drive short journeys with low rpm, it is not good as the engine will buildup ash and dpf will accumulate ash quicker, which decreases engine performance and risk for premature on engine because of excessive amount of carbon buildup on engine (combustion chamber). And also, people said the dpf regen wouldn't work on limp-mode car, but it worked on me! It did not drink fuel at all, it was limited, like flooring the pedal made it only drain 50% of what it should consume at that moment in a non-limp mode car. So yeah, I suggest to pour some additive (a bit extra more than recommended, if it says pour one bottle to full tank 60liters, then pour it into a 40 liters of tank whole bottle). It will make the fuel also thin (depending on what additive you bought, buy performance increasing additive!!). Dont worry, it will however consume the fuel really alot! Fuel economy will not reflect to dashboard but it actually consumes 30% more/less.
I bought a C-MAX with the 1.6 TDCI engine that within 2 months (even doing 80 miles a day) the DPF became completely full of ash and it had reached the end of its life essentially. I did a stupid thing and I kept deleting the codes so that it continued to drive normally. Carried on for a few months and since then I learned that the VNT vanes got destroyed in turbo so it lost low down power and only boosted about 2500 revs. Carried on driving like this for another few months, and then one day I had next zero power and when investigated the turbo had completely siezed due to the level of back pressure from the blocked DPF. Ended up having to replace DPF and Turbo in the end and although its far better, its no where as good as what it would have been if I'd replaced DPF in the first place! You live and learn!
it's a shame all this DPF and EGR vales have had to be fitted to modern diesels, it had made engines that were bullet proof now very temperamental, and maybe more trouble than there worth. I now have an x type jag and the EGR vales is giving me trouble.
Hi I have just had this fault with my Ford Focus 2006. Mine was a fault with the instrument cluster (instrument Panel). The computer that controls the car is on the back of the instrument panel. The fault is the plug pins on the back of the board which have to be re-soilded. Having worked in electronics for 10 years in the past I found this `OK to repair. You have to get the instrument panel out strip it down and re-soider the 30 pins. Look at how to get the panel out here on UA-cam there are many videos on how to do it. It took me about 3 and a half hours from start to finish to complete. Well worth doing as I here Ford want to charge between £500 and £700 to repair or replace, Good luck.
just to let you know that there is a DPF fluid Tank on the back of the fuel tank that will need filling up around every 80,000 miles. it will put faults on the dash if running low or empty. around £30-£40 to fill your self.
Hi, we are the worse of users of this car Driving instructors. Tho they warm up we literally stay in gear 3 at 30mph. Thanks for info will give it a rip on the motorway
Great video. I'm a taxi driver and even with the miles we do DPFs are a big problem for us. So much so alot of drivers are switching to petrol. I drive a hyundai and so far hyundai and kia arnt known for DPF problems?
***** I guess a lot of taxi journeys are quit short so a lot of start stop, so clogging will happen I guess, it's a shame as I was getting used to driving a diesel car, but I am now back to petrol.
Hi i had a problem on my DPF peugeot 407 hdi 2.0 which the light came on, lucky i had a full tank and two bottles of wynns professional diesel particulate filter cleaner in the boot which is a black bottle and the purple bottle is the crap version buy the black version 5 times a strong, anyway i put the two bottles in the tank was only to be one, and after 5 to 6 miles the light went and the car runs fine, but will buy another two, once the tank is empty. On monday 25/7/16 im having a terraclean on my engine and the EGR done also and will post my video on youtube.
Glad you got it sorted :-) I had enough of waiting for the problem to keep coming back, so decided to sell the car, I have gone back to a petrol engine.
The Wynn's stuff is very good indeed. Don't overuse it though, it is a cerium derived compound which can, in some circumstances, cause ash loading of the DPF. This doesn't burn away anywhere nearly as readily as does accumulated soot. I'd also suggest sticking with top tier fuel. I've been a disciple of BP Ultimate Diesel for over ten years. Completely agree on the purple bottle stuff. It's kerosene and little else.
Some of it is right some wrong.The egr takes some unburned fuel gasses back to the cylinder not the dpf. if fitted inside your dpf,the doc turns some of the nitrous oxide and carbon monoxide into CO2 and water before it reaches the dpf (about 6 inches away). The dpf converts the carbon particles into calcium based ash by heating the carbon inside a matrix of a ceramic filter by heating it every now and then by a process of the computer sensing the differential pressure across the filter and changing the mixture to make the exhaust gases much hotter to burn the carbon into ash.If you are doing short journeys, the computer even if it senses a pressure differential may go into the heating (regeneration mode) but there is insufficient time for it to carry out that heating.Once it starts the mode 20 minutes is usually enough but it needs enough gas ( high revs) to go through the dpf. Here comes the real problem.Once your car reaches a certain age, there is so much ash,not carbon in the filter, it does not take much carbon to change the differential pressure to a value that will bring up a fault.You can clear some of the carbon by what you did but it won't take long before you are back to square one because 80% of the blockage is the ash.Dont get tempted by snake oil chemicals online,they are only clearing the carbon not the ash.There are plenty of videos on here about flushing the ash and useless ones where they are just clearing the carbon.Once you dissolve the ash,it flushes out a pink colour and you have to remove the dpf to do this properly.The dpf is a robust piece of kid that can be cleaned so don't be fooled by garages that tell you it is "dead" or companies that say they can clean it by spraying snake oil into it still attached to the car.Its a bad invention to satisfy the greenies.
You know if these get clogged past the point where regen's do not work, you can try washing them out, i did this on my peugeot 807, and warning lights went off after clearing the dtc's the car however remain somewhat sluggish as the dpf on this was very old, so i took the liberty of drilling 5 holes with a masonry bit into the dpf core, viola power restored, no warning lights, 600 miles later, no regen's yet, mine is a 2004 plate, so this was when dpf systems were not so complicated its basicaly flow sensors and additive tank which let it know when a regen is required. on newer cars dpf is much more complex and drilling is not advised unless you have a dpf emulator or a ecu flash a dpf emulator overides the dpf functions so you can delete the dpf, ecu flash turns these off via the software in the ecu, ether way there is no legal obligation to have these in the uk, other than telling the insurance about the mod, mot's require that the smoke levels are within the limits which before 2008 cars apply to the same standards as old non dpf models. in short if you dont do the miles, and you get dpf troubles, opt for removal providing the car is not newer than 2008.
it said on yahoo just a week or so ago that they are about to make a change to the MOT rules so that if your car is meant to have a DPF and you have removed it, they will fail the MOT because of it's removal :(
DPFs are OK provided you drive them sympathetically. Short journeys are not great but try to stay above 2000 rpm as a minimum. There's a bit of a myth around revs, fuel economy and engine wear. Driving in a gear that's too high is bad for both economy and wear. Don't do it. There's nothing to gain. You won't hurt your engine by using the full power band. Avoid supermarket diesel, it does NOT contain the same levels and quality of detergents and combustion enhancing additives as branded fuel. I've used BP Ultimate Diesel exclusively (apart from when I fill petrol cars, whereupon I opt for Shell V-Power Nitro+ - try saying that after a few drinks) for years and I've not yet experienced DPF problems. Perhaps I've just been lucky. Make sure, too, that your garage (especially if you're using an indy) knows what oil to load into your car. All DPF cars require a mid or low SAPS oils. You must go by the manufacturers specification. ACEA C3 mid SAPs oils which suit VW cars won't suit Japanese cars which require ACEA C1 and/or JASO DL-1 low SAPs oils. Use one that is certified. Compatible is not the same thing. These will all be synthetic oils. No minerals, no semis. This is critical. You don't have to buy from the car maker to achieve this. Many mechanics and garages have no idea about different formulations for different engines. There's more to oil than just multi-grade viscosity cold/hot ratings.
A good well presented video but one thing for all the "bugger this I'm going back to petrol" brigade.....get one that's before 06 yes you'll still have the egr but blank it, and no more crap.....I was going to get an 06 1.6 tdci nest week, dont think I'll bother, I'll stick to the 03 1.8 tdci
+Stewart McDonald it's a shame this problem has arisen with diesel engines, as I had just got used to driving a diesel, then it all went tits up :-( hopefully the manufacturers will come up with a better system in the future.
Yesterday i drove around 850 kilometers with this problem. My Lancer 2.0 DID had no power at all. 80 kmh on the highway and if there was a downhill it would go with 120 kmh. It was so terrible,the worst drive ever.
I had quite a long drive like that to, and it's not good when your holding up the traffic and you know all the drivers behind you are thinking why is this guy driving so bloody slow lol.
Garry G yes all the drivers were looking at me like they would kill me,the worst was when the big trucks were blinking the lights behind me,that was scary. Before that with the DPF happen i had a small accident ,now i have to buy a new rear bumper ;(.
im fed up with the thing, i drive long enough every week and it doesnt clear, i even put in the aditive into the little tank underneath the car, had a garage reset the counter on that module and picked up a little, but gonna go back to petrol,
Imam FORD FOCUS 1.6 TDCI 2006 GOD.KARAVAN,PROBLEM MI SE JAVIO DANAS UPALILA MI SE LAMPICA ONA CRVENA OKRUGLA UPOZORENJE KAO NA MOTOR I ČIM SE ONA UPALI U VOŽNJI AUTO SE GASI,DALI NETKO MOŽDA NEŠTA ZNA O TOME ILI JE IMAO ISKUSTVA TAKVA,HVALA
70 on the motorway in 6th is better at heating the exhaust because you keep the engine under more load than you do at high revs + high revs = more sutt
To a point. Some cars are very high geared in 6th and swapping 5th for twenty minutes or so will help a regen. In my experience it's not so much revs that create soot but using lots of accelerator before the turbocharger is able to provide full boost. You definitely don't want to be in 4th at 30mph and then accelerating hard. The ECU has no choice but to over fuel in order to provide the turbo with some exhaust flow to spin up the compressor.
DPF removal is now an MOT failure. There will be a massive dive in many second-hand diesel prices as people try to get rid of cars which have had the system removed. These things are a very, very expensive problem waiting to destroy both your wallet and your engine. I've already been badly stung. I had a 2005 Mazda 6, 2.0 litre diesel 83,000 miles; engine seized due to oil contamination caused by DPF which dumps fuel into the combustion chamber during the EXHAUST cycle! I now drive a petrol car.
it is a shame as new diesel engines run really well and good for well over a 100,000 miles, I did consider having my DPF removed, glad I did not do it now, I had heard they were changing the law to stop them being removed, I will be going back to a small petrol engine when I change my car next time.
Garry G Modern larger capacity diesels engines are brilliantly designed pieces of machinery and should, with regular oil changes and a reasonably mechanically sensitive driving style, last quite literally a million miles! Peugeot/Citroen 1.9 litre examples of the past 10-15 years are well known for easily passing the 200,000 and even 300,000 mile mark. The trouble is modern diesels are now festooned with an array of increasingly complex and usually very expensive ancillary components which cannot hope to mirror the intrinsic durability of the engine itself. Manufacturers can't really make quite so much money from engines which last for epic mileages. I've also read that GPFs (Gasoline Particulate Filters) are on their way in the next 3-4 years!!
+prussell890 Since my original post, I'm back in a petrol car (Gen 7 Celica). Very simple machine. Won't go back to diesel. Higher purchase price and servicing costs negate any perceived mpg benefits in my opinion.
Hi Garry, i have my honda accord DPF ligh in my dashboard . the garage manage to clean but did not able to communicate their scanner and they cannot reset the system. is it also the reason my car very slow because of the warning light? Many Thanks hope to hear u soon.
Hello, yes if the car has gone into limp home mode to protect the engine, then the power will not return to the car until you have the fault light reset, try to have another scanner reset the light, if that one does not work either their must be a problem with the cars wiring to the cars computer, good luck with it.
If a DPF was to fail how much is it to replace? I was thinking of buying a 1.6 tdci focus due to the cheap road tax but would the repair cost outweigh the money you save on fuel and tax?
i think I will be going back to a petrol car the next time a buy a car, from my local car spares store a new DPF costs £240 if you put in into a garage to get it done you have got to be talking £300. this hits mainly people who do short journeys all the time like with, as long as you have a good half hour trip to work you might be ok.
If you use BP Ultimate it reduces your exhaust clogging up at least 20 or 30 % which is duo to a better combustion and better additives on the fuel you can Get a Good OBD scanner for £3 www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Engine-READER/dp/B004KL0I9I buy the Blutooth OBD adapter and than Pick a good OBD app from the play store on your phone
Best thing to do is get rid not the car the DPF and EGR they are made to fail and cost you the driver if you cant or wont get rid then dont take it on a motorway in 4th revving bollocks of it for 20 mile funny enough it doesn't get hot enough with the airflow over it the best thing is hard acceleration and long up hills in the drive low speeds 30mph
I have a problem with my focus 1.6 diesel has dpf /// I drive for 15/20 miles and the engine cuts out with no warning signs or nothing. Could it be dpf problem?
I would expect you to have the DPF warning light on, sounds like another problem, have you tried replacing the fuel filter, you can normally tell when they are getting blocked, by trying to excel orating hard if you find it starts loosing power it could be a dirty filter.
i think depending on how bad they are, some times cleaning them can work, but if it is really bad you might need to replace it, but they are not cheap I think I paid over £200 for one from car spares, go to ford and I bet it will be a lot more. I have sold my focus briefly had an x type diesel jaguar, then had EGR problems with that one, so I have had enough of diesel cars now, I have gone back to petrol, no more diesel cars for me, their is just to many problems with them now.
Garry G I had it cleaned but no change it cuts out with out no warning and then dosent starts off the key it’s has to be bumped to start it back up again
I had a 2006 focus with same issues blew 2 turbos, ended up trading it in for a Prius Hybrid and covered over 300k in it with zero issues. Sorry Henry Ford I have lost my faith in the Ford Motor Company.
@@650GSF there's me looking at a 2016 TDCI zetec s... We are Currently in 2019... And seeing this has put me off... Maybe I should get a petrol, unless this sort of thing has been improved...
Hi, the latest diesel engine's that have been out just a few years now, have something called Add blue, I believe that replaces the EGR valve if my understanding is correct, which gets rid of one of the troublesome parts, but it is a new thing so time will tell if it helps or not. I am playing safe and sticking with petrol now, as is one of my mates who just sold his VW Gold diesel because of all the trouble he has had with it. I have another mate who bought a 2 year old jag that has the add blue system, so it will be interesting to see if he has any trouble with it, it will be very expensive if he does.do your research and decide if you want to risk it or play safe and get a petrol.
@@650GSF arh fair enough I'm a young driver so I was looking at feista zetec S TDCI 1.5 95 BHP because it's cheaper to tax and insure then the petrol one, but of course knowing the issues involved with it puts me off, but the running cost would be so grateful for me.. I don't think the 2016 feista has add blue, I think they just have DPF and EGR, soo I'm probably thinking Maybe go for an 1L ecoboost, but people have told me they don't give that good mpg as they are claimed and are thirsty that kinda puts me off but it gives better mpg then other petrol cars I suppose, i don't do that many long journeys however I do tent to drive hard 😂 so the cat will definitely get hot but not sure if that would work :) thanks for the feedback though :) also your video was interesting .
I have a 65 plate fiesta 1.25 its under powered a bit boring to drive, seams ok on MPG never worked out what it is actually doing per gallon, but certainly not bad on fuel, the eco boost fiesta are meant to be quick and fun to drive, and they are also low tax band, my EGR valve used to block up fast but I wasn't doing many miles, I live lacteally a 5 minute drive from work, so all them short journeys are not good for Diesel engines these days, on the focus I had it was also the DPF filter that clogged up, a new one from car spares was about £300 and you also have to connect up a diagnostic tool to tell the computer a new filter has been fitted. the more miles you do the better, but when it starts going wrong it is a pain in the arse.
Ford focus bag of shite . There is loads of faults with this car . Rain water leaks through washer jets filling the spark plugs up . Rear spoiler leaks rain water on back seats . Power steering pump fail . The red cog on mine is the dashboard cluster has burnt out thats my problems . Oh and the emobalisor keeps kicking in .
michael jagger that's okay mate easily done, I had a 1.9 tdi vw passat a few months and it only had a catalytic converter but if a DPF became a mot requirement for diesels then I would personally go to back to petrol but at the moment I would have a diesel
Very helpful video mate, i really appreciate you taking the time to help others out!!
Thanks for your vid. I've had to change my engine on my fiat 500 because the dumb mechanic didn't have a bloody clue what he was doing.
Great video few wear and tear issues but love my Ford Focus 07 1.6 tdi just about to stick in some cleaner that I got from Halfords for £16.99 best they had. To clean out the jets plus other bits. One thing about the Ford Focus I know I can jump in it and drive 1200 miles with no problems and no issues sitting at 158.000 miles and use it every day...
I now have an X type jaguar, no DPF on it but it has the EGR valve which is playing up at the moment :-(
great video & very useful. Bought a focus 1.6 tdci no warning lights on what so ever. Replaced the turbo after doing all the recommendations regarding ie taking the sump off. new oil feed pipes strainers etc etc. Cars still in limp mode (the turbo had done 100000 miles so thought i would replace it regarding the limp mode) Went to a garage to book it in for a diagnostics & was told £ 80 surcharge plus 2 weeks to wait. Thought sod it will buy the diagnostic tool & do it myself....... Looks like the engines been remapped though as there were no ports off the cat. Fingers crossed ;-) ref to the video regarding the DPF filter the garage did say they would not fail the car for a conversion like this as the exhaust gasses are well within the recommended emissions Plus you get better fuel economy & better BHP
Hi ya, hope you get the problem sorted out, at the moment their are no laws about removing the DPF, I did think about having it done, but a new law is coming out I forget the date but I am sure it's this year some time, which means any car that has had it removed will fail the MOT, so I would advise against it, Are you sure the problem is the DPF, did you get a code on your scanner telling you the fault was the DPF, because their are other faults that would put the car into limp home mode.
Taking it to a specialist Monday, bought the maxi code reader but no codes were showing, the EGR is reading ok so fingers crossed might be either an injector fault but with no codes showing this specialist has the equipment to check this. I am happy to do all changes & turbo but haven't got a clue when it comes to injectors. This car hasn't got a DPF installed just a CAT regards Dean
Poured Oil to Diesel, a mixture of 1/50 of full tank with oil W05-40.
It went good for 2 months but had very frequent short journeys, finally it said engine problem and went into limp mode.
So, I had already got this issue 3 months earlier and my Bluetooth ELM327 OBD2 with TorquePro android app said it was glowplugs, changed all 4 cleared ecu fault codes, fixed.
This tame, same thing happened and I thought something bad was with the glowplugs regulator, but after reading fault codes, it said Diesel Particulate Ash Accumulation fault code.
Poured in x20 times more than recommended fuel additive (which boosts engine and cleans engine) and drove ~50km between 3-4 gear revved at 3.000 - 3.7000rpm, and gave it a short rest every 25km, and when I came back, I let it idle for a few min so the turbo cools down, engine cools down properly, and cleared fault codes, restarted engine voila! Problem gone!
Went again for a tour of 30km this time and it became out of limp mode, so i revved engine to 4.000rpm maximum rpm in 4 gear, and it lasted few second in 4.000rpm before engine stalled.
My theory is engine was hot and soot hot glowing hot and caused the fuel that is injected into combustion chamber to pre-combust before at right position, engine sensed this and immediately stopped the injectors to inject any more fuel.
The additive made the diesel very thin too, so it became extra flamable, after starting engine again it came back to life.
And guys, the tank had extra oil in, so I had to add more additive to make it thin so its flamable to create high temperature.
It went nice, filled tank with 2 gallons of fuel and went home.
So far no problem, I suggest to never pour oil in a DPF-mounted modern diesel car.
Also, its not good to drive on town, if you work on a long way which you drive through highway, then a little bit oil shall help thicken the oil for more economy, but if you drive short journeys with low rpm, it is not good as the engine will buildup ash and dpf will accumulate ash quicker, which decreases engine performance and risk for premature on engine because of excessive amount of carbon buildup on engine (combustion chamber).
And also, people said the dpf regen wouldn't work on limp-mode car, but it worked on me!
It did not drink fuel at all, it was limited, like flooring the pedal made it only drain 50% of what it should consume at that moment in a non-limp mode car.
So yeah, I suggest to pour some additive (a bit extra more than recommended, if it says pour one bottle to full tank 60liters, then pour it into a 40 liters of tank whole bottle). It will make the fuel also thin (depending on what additive you bought, buy performance increasing additive!!).
Dont worry, it will however consume the fuel really alot! Fuel economy will not reflect to dashboard but it actually consumes 30% more/less.
I bought a C-MAX with the 1.6 TDCI engine that within 2 months (even doing 80 miles a day) the DPF became completely full of ash and it had reached the end of its life essentially. I did a stupid thing and I kept deleting the codes so that it continued to drive normally. Carried on for a few months and since then I learned that the VNT vanes got destroyed in turbo so it lost low down power and only boosted about 2500 revs. Carried on driving like this for another few months, and then one day I had next zero power and when investigated the turbo had completely siezed due to the level of back pressure from the blocked DPF. Ended up having to replace DPF and Turbo in the end and although its far better, its no where as good as what it would have been if I'd replaced DPF in the first place! You live and learn!
it's a shame all this DPF and EGR vales have had to be fitted to modern diesels, it had made engines that were bullet proof now very temperamental, and maybe more trouble than there worth. I now have an x type jag and the EGR vales is giving me trouble.
Hi I have just had this fault with my Ford Focus 2006. Mine was a fault with the instrument cluster (instrument Panel). The computer that controls the car is on the back of the instrument panel. The fault is the plug pins on the back of the board which have to be re-soilded. Having worked in electronics for 10 years in the past I found this `OK to repair. You have to get the instrument panel out strip it down and re-soider the 30 pins. Look at how to get the panel out here on UA-cam there are many videos on how to do it. It took me about 3 and a half hours from start to finish to complete. Well worth doing as I here Ford want to charge between £500 and £700 to repair or replace, Good luck.
Cheers Gary, thanks for taking the time to help us !
just to let you know that there is a DPF fluid Tank on the back of the fuel tank that will need filling up around every 80,000 miles. it will put faults on the dash if running low or empty. around £30-£40 to fill your self.
royale limos Hi ya, yes I did find the tank in the end, I sold the car a month ago, and have gone back to a petrol car, no more diesel cars for me lol
Hi, we are the worse of users of this car
Driving instructors. Tho they warm up we literally stay in gear 3 at 30mph. Thanks for info will give it a rip on the motorway
Great video. I'm a taxi driver and even with the miles we do DPFs are a big problem for us. So much so alot of drivers are switching to petrol. I drive a hyundai and so far hyundai and kia arnt known for DPF problems?
***** I guess a lot of taxi journeys are quit short so a lot of start stop, so clogging will happen I guess, it's a shame as I was getting used to driving a diesel car, but I am now back to petrol.
Hi i had a problem on my DPF peugeot 407 hdi 2.0 which the light came on, lucky i had a full tank and two bottles of wynns professional diesel particulate filter cleaner in the boot which is a black bottle and the purple bottle is the crap version buy the black version 5 times a strong, anyway i put the two bottles in the tank was only to be one, and after 5 to 6 miles the light went and the car runs fine, but will buy another two, once the tank is empty.
On monday 25/7/16 im having a terraclean on my engine and the EGR done also and will post my video on youtube.
Glad you got it sorted :-) I had enough of waiting for the problem to keep coming back, so decided to sell the car, I have gone back to a petrol engine.
The Wynn's stuff is very good indeed. Don't overuse it though, it is a cerium derived compound which can, in some circumstances, cause ash loading of the DPF. This doesn't burn away anywhere nearly as readily as does accumulated soot. I'd also suggest sticking with top tier fuel. I've been a disciple of BP Ultimate Diesel for over ten years. Completely agree on the purple bottle stuff. It's kerosene and little else.
Some of it is right some wrong.The egr takes some unburned fuel gasses back to the cylinder not the dpf. if fitted inside your dpf,the doc turns some of the nitrous oxide and carbon monoxide into CO2 and water before it reaches the dpf (about 6 inches away). The dpf converts the carbon particles into calcium based ash by heating the carbon inside a matrix of a ceramic filter by heating it every now and then by a process of the computer sensing the differential pressure across the filter and changing the mixture to make the exhaust gases much hotter to burn the carbon into ash.If you are doing short journeys, the computer even if it senses a pressure differential may go into the heating (regeneration mode) but there is insufficient time for it to carry out that heating.Once it starts the mode 20 minutes is usually enough but it needs enough gas ( high revs) to go through the dpf. Here comes the real problem.Once your car reaches a certain age, there is so much ash,not carbon in the filter, it does not take much carbon to change the differential pressure to a value that will bring up a fault.You can clear some of the carbon by what you did but it won't take long before you are back to square one because 80% of the blockage is the ash.Dont get tempted by snake oil chemicals online,they are only clearing the carbon not the ash.There are plenty of videos on here about flushing the ash and useless ones where they are just clearing the carbon.Once you dissolve the ash,it flushes out a pink colour and you have to remove the dpf to do this properly.The dpf is a robust piece of kid that can be cleaned so don't be fooled by garages that tell you it is "dead" or companies that say they can clean it by spraying snake oil into it still attached to the car.Its a bad invention to satisfy the greenies.
Your dashboard looks like a christmas tree!
Lol
You know if these get clogged past the point where regen's do not work, you can try washing them out, i did this on my peugeot 807, and warning lights went off after clearing the dtc's the car however remain somewhat sluggish as the dpf on this was very old, so i took the liberty of drilling 5 holes with a masonry bit into the dpf core, viola power restored, no warning lights, 600 miles later, no regen's yet, mine is a 2004 plate, so this was when dpf systems were not so complicated its basicaly flow sensors and additive tank which let it know when a regen is required. on newer cars dpf is much more complex and drilling is not advised unless you have a dpf emulator or a ecu flash a dpf emulator overides the dpf functions so you can delete the dpf, ecu flash turns these off via the software in the ecu, ether way there is no legal obligation to have these in the uk, other than telling the insurance about the mod, mot's require that the smoke levels are within the limits which before 2008 cars apply to the same standards as old non dpf models. in short if you dont do the miles, and you get dpf troubles, opt for removal providing the car is not newer than 2008.
it said on yahoo just a week or so ago that they are about to make a change to the MOT rules so that if your car is meant to have a DPF and you have removed it, they will fail the MOT because of it's removal :(
you could also use "SeaFoam" and rev the motor for a while on your driveway,
DPFs are OK provided you drive them sympathetically. Short journeys are not great but try to stay above 2000 rpm as a minimum. There's a bit of a myth around revs, fuel economy and engine wear. Driving in a gear that's too high is bad for both economy and wear. Don't do it. There's nothing to gain. You won't hurt your engine by using the full power band.
Avoid supermarket diesel, it does NOT contain the same levels and quality of detergents and combustion enhancing additives as branded fuel. I've used BP Ultimate Diesel exclusively (apart from when I fill petrol cars, whereupon I opt for Shell V-Power Nitro+ - try saying that after a few drinks) for years and I've not yet experienced DPF problems. Perhaps I've just been lucky.
Make sure, too, that your garage (especially if you're using an indy) knows what oil to load into your car. All DPF cars require a mid or low SAPS oils. You must go by the manufacturers specification. ACEA C3 mid SAPs oils which suit VW cars won't suit Japanese cars which require ACEA C1 and/or JASO DL-1 low SAPs oils. Use one that is certified. Compatible is not the same thing. These will all be synthetic oils. No minerals, no semis. This is critical. You don't have to buy from the car maker to achieve this. Many mechanics and garages have no idea about different formulations for different engines. There's more to oil than just multi-grade viscosity cold/hot ratings.
A good well presented video but one thing for all the "bugger this I'm going back to petrol" brigade.....get one that's before 06 yes you'll still have the egr but blank it, and no more crap.....I was going to get an 06 1.6 tdci nest week, dont think I'll bother, I'll stick to the 03 1.8 tdci
+Stewart McDonald it's a shame this problem has arisen with diesel engines, as I had just got used to driving a diesel, then it all went tits up :-( hopefully the manufacturers will come up with a better system in the future.
+Garry G hi there i have purchased 1.6tdci focus 2007.Would it be ideal to remove dpf before it starts
@@sofiasaleem7983 Then you're buggered for future mot's, and as your reply was back in 16' i'm sure it's harder to get through..
Yesterday i drove around 850 kilometers with this problem. My Lancer 2.0 DID had no power at all. 80 kmh on the highway and if there was a downhill it would go with 120 kmh. It was so terrible,the worst drive ever.
I had quite a long drive like that to, and it's not good when your holding up the traffic and you know all the drivers behind you are thinking why is this guy driving so bloody slow lol.
Garry G yes all the drivers were looking at me like they would kill me,the worst was when the big trucks were blinking the lights behind me,that was scary. Before that with the DPF happen i had a small accident ,now i have to buy a new rear bumper ;(.
im fed up with the thing, i drive long enough every week and it doesnt clear, i even put in the aditive into the little tank underneath the car, had a garage reset the counter on that module and picked up a little, but gonna go back to petrol,
I think petrol is the safer bet these days, defo no more diesel cars for me :-)
@@650GSF i have an 08 atm, and the nuts are facing you under the car and stripped, but I can pull the flexi off with it
Imam FORD FOCUS 1.6 TDCI 2006 GOD.KARAVAN,PROBLEM MI SE JAVIO DANAS UPALILA MI SE LAMPICA ONA CRVENA OKRUGLA UPOZORENJE KAO NA MOTOR I ČIM SE ONA UPALI U VOŽNJI AUTO SE GASI,DALI NETKO MOŽDA NEŠTA ZNA O TOME ILI JE IMAO ISKUSTVA TAKVA,HVALA
70 on the motorway in 6th is better at heating the exhaust because you keep the engine under more load than you do at high revs + high revs = more sutt
To a point. Some cars are very high geared in 6th and swapping 5th for twenty minutes or so will help a regen. In my experience it's not so much revs that create soot but using lots of accelerator before the turbocharger is able to provide full boost. You definitely don't want to be in 4th at 30mph and then accelerating hard. The ECU has no choice but to over fuel in order to provide the turbo with some exhaust flow to spin up the compressor.
DPF removal is now an MOT failure. There will be a massive dive in many second-hand diesel prices as people try to get rid of cars which have had the system removed. These things are a very, very expensive problem waiting to destroy both your wallet and your engine. I've already been badly stung. I had a 2005 Mazda 6, 2.0 litre diesel 83,000 miles; engine seized due to oil contamination caused by DPF which dumps fuel into the combustion chamber during the EXHAUST cycle! I now drive a petrol car.
it is a shame as new diesel engines run really well and good for well over a 100,000 miles, I did consider having my DPF removed, glad I did not do it now, I had heard they were changing the law to stop them being removed, I will be going back to a small petrol engine when I change my car next time.
Garry G Modern larger capacity diesels engines are brilliantly designed pieces of machinery and should, with regular oil changes and a reasonably mechanically sensitive driving style, last quite literally a million miles! Peugeot/Citroen 1.9 litre examples of the past 10-15 years are well known for easily passing the 200,000 and even 300,000 mile mark. The trouble is modern diesels are now festooned with an array of increasingly complex and usually very expensive ancillary components which cannot hope to mirror the intrinsic durability of the engine itself. Manufacturers can't really make quite so much money from engines which last for epic mileages. I've also read that GPFs (Gasoline Particulate Filters) are on their way in the next 3-4 years!!
keyboarddancers of
+prussell890 Since my original post, I'm back in a petrol car (Gen 7 Celica). Very simple machine. Won't go back to diesel. Higher purchase price and servicing costs negate any perceived mpg benefits in my opinion.
Same here, I had a diesel car and because of DPF Problems I have moved back to a Petrol Car. I'll never buy a diesel again.
Hi Garry, i have my honda accord DPF ligh in my dashboard . the garage manage to clean but did not able to communicate their scanner and they cannot reset the system. is it also the reason my car very slow because of the warning light?
Many Thanks hope to hear u soon.
Hello, yes if the car has gone into limp home mode to protect the engine, then the power will not return to the car until you have the fault light reset, try to have another scanner reset the light, if that one does not work either their must be a problem with the cars wiring to the cars computer, good luck with it.
If a DPF was to fail how much is it to replace? I was thinking of buying a 1.6 tdci focus due to the cheap road tax but would the repair cost outweigh the money you save on fuel and tax?
i think I will be going back to a petrol car the next time a buy a car, from my local car spares store a new DPF costs £240 if you put in into a garage to get it done you have got to be talking £300. this hits mainly people who do short journeys all the time like with, as long as you have a good half hour trip to work you might be ok.
+Garry G you could just remove it then put it back on for M.O.T
If you use BP Ultimate it reduces your exhaust clogging up at least 20 or 30 %
which is duo to a better combustion and better additives on the fuel
you can Get a Good OBD scanner for £3
www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Engine-READER/dp/B004KL0I9I
buy the Blutooth OBD adapter and than Pick a good OBD app from the play store on your phone
Best thing to do is get rid not the car the DPF and EGR they are made to fail and cost you the driver if you cant or wont get rid then dont take it on a motorway in 4th revving bollocks of it for 20 mile funny enough it doesn't get hot enough with the airflow over it the best thing is hard acceleration and long up hills in the drive low speeds 30mph
I have a problem with my focus 1.6 diesel has dpf /// I drive for 15/20 miles and the engine cuts out with no warning signs or nothing. Could it be dpf problem?
I would expect you to have the DPF warning light on, sounds like another problem, have you tried replacing the fuel filter, you can normally tell when they are getting blocked, by trying to excel orating hard if you find it starts loosing power it could be a dirty filter.
Garry G it’s says dpf but had it cleaned and still the same problem my other opinion is to just buy a brand new dpf
i think depending on how bad they are, some times cleaning them can work, but if it is really bad you might need to replace it, but they are not cheap I think I paid over £200 for one from car spares, go to ford and I bet it will be a lot more. I have sold my focus briefly had an x type diesel jaguar, then had EGR problems with that one, so I have had enough of diesel cars now, I have gone back to petrol, no more diesel cars for me, their is just to many problems with them now.
Garry G I had it cleaned but no change it cuts out with out no warning and then dosent starts off the key it’s has to be bumped to start it back up again
@@haydenaston6440 did u find out why it was cuting out and not starting?
I had a 2006 focus with same issues blew 2 turbos, ended up trading it in for a Prius Hybrid and covered over 300k in it with zero issues. Sorry Henry Ford I have lost my faith in the Ford Motor Company.
Glad I didn't buy one I viewed one with that problem
All od them a problem one
I have a 1.6 petrol with that red cog .
god luck fixing the problem :)
Big mistake if you think that will fix it for good...
+dave wells your right it came back a few months latter, I have sold the car now, and I will not be having anymore diesel cars in the future lol
@@650GSF there's me looking at a 2016 TDCI zetec s... We are Currently in 2019... And seeing this has put me off... Maybe I should get a petrol, unless this sort of thing has been improved...
Hi, the latest diesel engine's that have been out just a few years now, have something called Add blue, I believe that replaces the EGR valve if my understanding is correct, which gets rid of one of the troublesome parts, but it is a new thing so time will tell if it helps or not. I am playing safe and sticking with petrol now, as is one of my mates who just sold his VW Gold diesel because of all the trouble he has had with it. I have another mate who bought a 2 year old jag that has the add blue system, so it will be interesting to see if he has any trouble with it, it will be very expensive if he does.do your research and decide if you want to risk it or play safe and get a petrol.
@@650GSF arh fair enough I'm a young driver so I was looking at feista zetec S TDCI 1.5 95 BHP because it's cheaper to tax and insure then the petrol one, but of course knowing the issues involved with it puts me off, but the running cost would be so grateful for me.. I don't think the 2016 feista has add blue, I think they just have DPF and EGR, soo I'm probably thinking Maybe go for an 1L ecoboost, but people have told me they don't give that good mpg as they are claimed and are thirsty that kinda puts me off but it gives better mpg then other petrol cars I suppose, i don't do that many long journeys however I do tent to drive hard 😂 so the cat will definitely get hot but not sure if that would work :) thanks for the feedback though :) also your video was interesting .
I have a 65 plate fiesta 1.25 its under powered a bit boring to drive, seams ok on MPG never worked out what it is actually doing per gallon, but certainly not bad on fuel, the eco boost fiesta are meant to be quick and fun to drive, and they are also low tax band, my EGR valve used to block up fast but I wasn't doing many miles, I live lacteally a 5 minute drive from work, so all them short journeys are not good for Diesel engines these days, on the focus I had it was also the DPF filter that clogged up, a new one from car spares was about £300 and you also have to connect up a diagnostic tool to tell the computer a new filter has been fitted. the more miles you do the better, but when it starts going wrong it is a pain in the arse.
Just brought one of these.....shit lol!
lol, mine has been ok apart from the DPF and my alternator gave up on life as well.
Ford focus bag of shite . There is loads of faults with this car . Rain water leaks through washer jets filling the spark plugs up . Rear spoiler leaks rain water on back seats . Power steering pump fail . The red cog on mine is the dashboard cluster has burnt out thats my problems . Oh and the emobalisor keeps kicking in .
lol not a big fan of fords then
Do you think if i keep resetting the issues it will drive perfect again as my red light is on saying system engine fault
DPF the worst invention ever
It seems like there design to fail! I think a return to petrol if every diesel would require a DPF to pass a MOT
+KD84Afc™ not all diesels need a dpf to pass an mot. my 2004 audi a3 tdi has a cat. DPF's are bollocks
michael jagger that's why I said "require"
KD84Afc™ excuse me on that one misread it
michael jagger that's okay mate easily done, I had a 1.9 tdi vw passat a few months and it only had a catalytic converter but if a DPF became a mot requirement for diesels then I would personally go to back to petrol but at the moment I would have a diesel