Links to everything discussed in the description.🙂 UPDATED⬇ Shapton 1000⬇ amzn.to/3T7dYSY Shapton 2000⬇ amzn.to/3sVKpJz Shapton 5000⬇ amzn.to/3R8Uo6i Theses are affiliated links. As an amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases As an associate I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. Everything purchased in this video was purchased with my own money.
How are these stones made? What is the binder (if any) that they use to hold the grit together? What makes these stones so good compared to other low cost China made sharpening stones?
I made the mistake of buying a full set of Kuromaka stones about 8 or 9 years ago. They are the best thing since sliced bread. Only problem I have, I only use 300, 1000 and 5000. I do get dishing on the 300 after a while. I'd like to suggest you turn your stones and use the opposite side, keeping your label clear.
Yo ... just a tip about photography or video of reflective objects ... DON'T USE AUTOFOCUS!! :) In MF, you'll have ZERO problems getting whatever you want in focus with the right Depth of Field
Can you please do a video about how you choose which micron stropping compound // emulsion ? Do you prefer leather strops or that fiber cloth thing from jende + emulsion ..? thanks dude.
I self-taught myself to sharpen a few years ago using many of your videos as an aid. I am now in my second year of college, working my @$$ off to pay my way through it. I actually ended up bringing down my sharpening stones after winter break because word that I am good at sharpening blades got out. I was just using my Work Sharp Field sharpener with just the two stones, ceramic rod, and leather strop to help some friends before then. When got my proper sharpening stones down here, I started making money sharpening knives and broad head. I am going to school for Natural Resources Law Enforcement by the way.
These are great stones, particularly considering the price. I was not aware of the 2,000. I have the 320 wirepuller for profiling machetes, axes, and really dull knives. I also have the 600, 1,000, 5,000, 8,000 and 12,000. Rarely do I use anything above the 5,000 except for some very high-end kitchen knives...original German Hinkle's. I actually prefer a slightly toothy edge on my frequently used cheaper kitchen knives. I will be grabbing a 2,000 as that should bring a kitchen knife to where you really want it. BTW, I always preserve the printed side of the stone for occasional flattening of the other stones. It is amazing the text has held up to this use. If and when it wears off I will mark that side with a sharpy. For those wondering about the wear of the stones...it is negligible. You will eventually get some slight dishing on the 1,000 so, hit it a little bit every 5-6 heavy uses with the backside of another stone. I hit the 1,000 with the back of the 600 then with the 5,000. To check flatness I use the zig zag pencil marking then go through flattening. Very seldom does it require more than a few passes.
@@jeffhicks8428 You are correct. My bad. When I posted that I said to myself, get off your ass go get them and make sure. It is indeed the blue case one I have marked 320. I rarely use it. I have used it on hatchets, axes and machetes as well as an Old Hickory kitchen butcher knife rescued. I also I use it to flatten my other stones.
Man, there’s such a deep authenticity to this work/this video. Not sure if you’re working to try to blow up your channel or just put great things out, but, sincerely, thank you for doing this work
@@rickwhitson2804I would think that hunting knives and kitchen knives are the same thing. Based on videos about this stone I have seen if it worth it you just have to know how to use it so you don’t ruin your knives or the stone
This video prompted me to dig through my old water stone collection, only to find I had two very old hand made Japanese stones one at 6000 and a 10,000 grit. I can only imagine an old Japanese master Samurai sword maker finds one day he's missing a couple of his favourites water stones! Absolutely exquisite stones for honing my favourite cut throat razor to a mirror finish hair-whittling perfection. 👍 Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience. ⭐ On a more sombre note: Sadly 'everyday' skills like knife sharpening are not being passed down by parents and I believe these essential DIY skills are what separates a survivor from someone who will ultimately perish when 'consumers' are left to fend for themselves. And that inevitable day is sadly just over the horizon, if humanity doesn't get it's act together soon. 🤔
I am a big fan of the Shapton Kuromaku stones. I use them for my woodworking tools. Going on 6 years with them (1500, 5000, 8000, 12000) Nowhere near wearing them out yet, although I do flatten them much more than what I would if they were used for knife sharpening. The 1500 has seen the most wear, and it's used maybe 15% of it's life in those 6 years. Each flattening only takes off a few thousandths of an inch. You have described them perfectly.
Im looking I to these Stones for sharpening my plane blades. Can you tell me how well they stay flat compared to softer wetstones? Im having to flattening my wetstones before every use for my plane blades an really want to make my life a little easier.
@@karelenhenkie666 Sorry it took this long to answer, as I just saw your question. They are very hard stones, and lets say your softer stones need fattening every time, these will allow you to do 3 or 4 sharpenings before flattening is required. It's actually a hard question to answer since there are so many variables. Bottom line, there are very few stones that take longer to dish than these. The Naniwa Chosera line of stones are generally more expensive and are the only ones I've used that last longer between flattenings. There are people who swear by the Shapton glass stones and they are actually harder than the Kuromaku stones, but I'm not a fan of the glass stones. I find them too hard, if that makes any sense. Could be a failing on my part. The Kuromaku and the Naniwa Chosera stones are among the best out there IMHO. (the newer Naniwa stones they call the professional line are the new version of the Choseras and are more expensive.)
I have to thank you, these stones are so good and the feedback makes them almost intuitive to use. I bought the 1000 grit and was so blown away I had to order the rest of the set. These actually work on my Japanese super blue steel leather knives.
ofc they work on super blue. it's a low alloy steel that's very easy to sharpen. super blue has like half the edge retention of a basic stainless steel like VG10. And yea these stones great for all of those things, any low alloy steels, any kitchen knife stainless, etc.. Don't waste your time above the lower grits on any vanadium alloy steels though. The 220 and 320 in this line are Silicon Carbide and will cut vanadium steels without issue. Beyond that, I'd use something else unless you actually want a "carbide rich edge."
i might be late but i have a question. is this stone beginner friendly? the stones i have at home are so bad and i just found this vid. would you recommend this to a beginner?
@@cxshxnly7gotta learn on something, might as well be a good stone that you can’t mess up, can easily afford and you will use for years and years to come,
@@cxshxnly7Yeah. This guy's made videos on the generic stones Beginners often get, and they're no better than using a brick. These are his recommendation, other than getting a 3-400 grit diamond plate first for profiling.
Your enthusiasm for the Shapton and sharpening in general is such a delight; thank-you for all the videos over the years. Such rapt devotion to these new stones gives a student of yours, like myself, pause. There have been a few "best ever stones," last stones you'll ever need etc. As always there are plus and minuses I'm sure, but my head spins as we go from DMT fine to Sypderco medium to now the Shapton...in another month, should I brace for the Naniwa Chosera video? Not cheap but surely a man in your line of work deserves the best! :) Did appreciate you looping back with a contrasting comment on the DMT...very much appreciated. This viewer has a delicate case of sharpening stone FOMO and values your experience based opinion! Keep'em coming. ;)
Its very difficult because theres a lot of good stones out there. None of said stones are bad but each have advantages and disadvantages depending on your needs. Thanks for the comment 👍
I bought one, Alex. I’m VERY happy!! Everything I own is now 1000 grit sharp! Thank you So Much. Now trying to maintain a constant bevel hold - that’s another story.
I’m just getting into knives, and, based on the comments you displayed, I have a feeling I’m pretty lucky to receive these recommendations at this point in time. Thank you!
Totally agree…….I have the 1000 grit and 1500 grit and love both of them. The 1500 grit is probably my all-time favorite stone of any I’ve ever used including my naniwa’s.
I bought the 1000 grit to start learning how to free-hand sharpen. It's a bit of a challenge to hold the correct angle. I'm trying to lock my wrist as you mentioned in earlier videos. It's a skill I really would like to learn. I have used the Lansky kit for 30-plus years. I appreciate your videos! I also started my first knife-making project out of 1080 steel. You make it look easy, it is NOT!!
Rather than trying to hold your wrist at a fixed angle, you might develop a feel for when the bevel is flat against the stone. It's just as accurate and, IMO, more natural. Our limbs are designed to move in circles and consistent straight line motion doesn't come that easy.
Protip - bend Your knees and keep back straight, the blade should waist high. In this position it's very ease to lock the wrist, since movement is off-center.
A tip for viewing objects under microscope/macro lenses: Use back lighting. When the surface is reflecting and the background is dark, it will blow out your image. By using a little backlight, you reduce the contrast, and it will be easier for the camera to get a picture that doesnt blow out the lighter parts of the image.
yeah but even more important ..? And a simple point many many (esp youtubers) forget..? MANUAL FOCUS! lol. And of course, a 'fast' lens (large depth of field) that's just enough for the depth.
The Shapton pro 2000 is the only stone I personally need. I have come to realize why people rave about it on forums. I have other stones but this one serves all my needs as I never let my knives get dull. A Japanese blue steel #2 carbon knife on a Shapton 2000 is a match made in heaven. I have read that the Glass series stones are better for high end stainless but I have yet to test that out. Customers' cheap knives get what they deserve: the belt sander.
There are 1000, 1500 and 2000 Shapton stones. I’m wondering if 1500 grit stone will be the most universal if you get only one stone in that grit range?
@@proudbacteria1373 I find that with a decent 400 (I have a Naniwa Pro green) I can go straight to the 2000. For damaged or very dull knives I use Norton Green 120 sandpaper (on wood with double sided tape) or the belt sander. I have a 5000 Suehiro Rika but don't use it much as the 2000 gets an edge that is plenty good enough for kitchen work and it's such a flexible stone that with a very light touch I can get a 3000 edge from it. The strop is just as important as the stone and I use the yellow Flexcut compound for extra abrasion.
Hey man. I have a huge collection of Japanese whetstones. i love these stones. I'd suggest you add the 320. it's an INCREDIBLE stone for what it is, which is SIC. So much smoother and nicer than most SIC stones. These stones are known for being extremely hard, wearing very slow and still cutting well. They're great for all that, fantastic for edges. The one area they lack is doing large bevels. That's where other stones like the chosera shine for a sng. or the glass series from shapton which is designed to be more like the chosera. that means it's just slightly less hard, wears slightly faster, still very hard and slow, but... they give off noticably more slurry and do a much better job on big ol bevels and whatnot. They are noticably more friable. The shapton pros are just known for being the hardest and slowest wearing on the block. the 320 which is sic is ofc more friable. The 2k is one of my favorites. The 120 is an amazing ultra course grinding stone. The 320 is fantastic. 1k is more like 600 or 800 and it's great. the 5k is very glassy and good for deburring. The 12k is another amazing stone. I like it much more than the 5k but it obviously doesn't have the same strength, as in I've reshapened dull razors on nothing but that 5k and it moves steel, the 12k wouldn't do all that. Much higher polish tho. Anyhow cheers. if you want to venture out. The 400 chosera is maybe the all time greatest stone. you can get a 15 mm version off amazon for like $40. Also a big fan of the naniwa super stones for polishing, finishing, large bevels and doing delicate work like razors.
After years of trying and failing to sharpen knives on stones i finally managed to get a good edge using you advice about not moving hands/wrists. Ive ordered the 1000 stone and im looking forward to trying it with my new found skill . Thank you
Great work. This is a huge value for the aspiring pro. I've been cooking professionally for 35+ years and I had to learn all this the hard way. I usually stick with the King 1000 grit. It's huge, lasts forever and gets the job done. Plus, I share it with other knuckleheads... BTW an episode on care and maintenance of whetstones would be great. It's best to store them dry... I just found your channel and I'll see if you discussed this already.
Agreed, fantastic stones, but i disagree about skipping grits. For the general user, even daily, who is not mirror polishing, running stones in order is unnecessary. A kuromaku 320 / 1000 /5000 is all most will need. Throw in a green compound strop at the end, and you can shave whatever body part you wish, if you dont cut it off trying. This is my daily kit for sharpening, and it works incredible. And yes , i use the 320 regularly, i enjoy refurbishing knives that have been giving up on. It makes a huge difference having a true rough stone for fast cutting. Everything, i completely agree with. Awesome video and great information put out !!!
I struggle with this because on one jand you can skip and get better results than the previous stone. However, on the other hand you can not remove 1000 grit scratches with the 5000 grit. So I usually recommend buying grits in order so as you are always adding better results. Not filling in. If that makes sense.
Well done video! I confess I never put my kitchen knives on a stone. In fact it's rare I need to actually sharpen them, and I do a lot of food prep. I hone after every use with 1200gr & 8000gr ceramic rods, The only times I actually need to 'sharpen' is after some kind kitchen helper tosses them into the sink, hits a glass, ceramic plate or steel pot. I then use a diamond 600gr steel to re-shape & get rid of nicks. A fine-cut steel for my steak knives to straighten the wire as I like a slight bit of tooth on the edge especially for BBQ meat. HOWEVER, in my shop, planes, bench chisels, carving knives & chisels, drawknives & carving axes/adze, I'm very fussy. My best stones are Bester/Imanishi. 2000, 4000, 8000. For very small carving chisels, veiners, gouges & parting tools, I use smaller, hard ceramics to avoid gouging the stones. I also use diamond stones if I'm flattening or re-shaping a dropped tool, plus diamond films, and two hard maple strops, one using black emery, the other green ultra fine, roughly 0.5 microns. I like the hard maple as my edges don't round-over as is possible using leather. I feel it gives me more control over & precision with the edge & material. My large DMT diamond bench stones include all grit-sizes, but honestly, even the 8000 doesn't get to planing/carving-sharp like the hard ceramic 8000 or Imanishi 8000 do. I've been thinking about adding a couple Shaptons, and Spyderco hard, large ceramics, then look at the grand total, then look at my large collection of stones, plates, films, shake my head and keep delaying.
😂 I did see my name come up in the first minute of this vid! I’ve recently purchased the 2000 shapton and just fell in love with it! Your 100% correct you can go 1k-5k but that middle 2k stone is literally takes the edge to another level! Thanks for explaining everything so it doesn’t look like I’m the only mad person on this planet when I explain to my customers why it’s needed 👍
its cuz the 1k stone in this line is more like a 600 or 800 at best. Great stone for getting the job done. The 2k stone is considered by many to be the best stone in this entire line. It's fantastic.
@@jeffhicks8428 it’s actually extremely close to the 500 shapton glass!! But for the price! And actual performance of the 1k shapton pro! It’s a stone I do take with me to many restaurants and salon sharpenings especially now with the 2k it’s definitely a perfect combo
Oh god. The world's worst stone link took me straight to the one I bought when I wanted to get started. I bought more and the 8000 grit is coarser than the 6000 grit. I will return what I can and I will take your advice on these three. In Sweden we have a phrase called "learning money" or rather "learning cost". I spent money and I learned my lesson...
i watched, giggled madly, and was reminded of the book Reaper Man by Terry Pratchett: there's a part where Death is sharpening a scythe blade: "First on a grindstone, then on an oilstone, then on a steel. It was too blunt. Miss Flitworth supplied, from her rag bag, satin, then silk, finest white silk, never worn (from her wedding dress). It was still blunt. Then it was sharpened on cobweb. Then on the breeze at dawn. Finally, on the light of the new day." From watching your video's i've managed to get to being able to use paper towels and (once) toilet tissue for paper cutting test but haven't managed the hair whittling yet. just gotta practice... and buy better knives with good steel.
Don't know if you will see this. But since you really like these. Maybe give the shapton glass a try also. They seem like they might be even more up your alley, since they should dish even less. And are potentially even more accurately graded in their abrassive size. From what i remember the price isnt much higher, though the stones are thinner. Though it makes up for it with the slower wear.
I love these stones. I have those 3. But I would recommend adding the blue 320. And if you want to geek out a bit try the black Arkansas stone - its a dream finishing stone. I use it almost like a strop.
everyone else tell on forum you need diamond stones for cpm s110v. Those shapton diamond stones are 3 times as expensive as this set you recommended. at first i felt bad because i deceided to also buy the manix 2 in s110v. than i kinda regret that i bought this 1000 2000 5000 set you recommended. Now today i see you sharpen the 110v same knife as i have on these stones. I feel good about my purchase again. Thanks alot for this video! now i need to learn how to sharpen a expensive hard steel like this.
I started using the Shaptons a few months ago and have been extremely satisfied with them. I use the 5000 in combination with a shale (soft) stone that I collect from the hills here in Belgium for a high-gloss finish.
Yeah, that 1k is an absolute classic. Suggestion: comparison of major stone maker's "X"k stones. Makers like Chosera, King, Naniwa, Shapton, Suehiro. Comparing specific grits and what they are made of and how accurate the "X" grit really is. Another thought: soakers versus splashers; what's beyond the obvious difference.
Love these stones. 1k, 2k and 5k have incredible feedback and each one gives you a great edge that you can use. For my kitchen knives I use 1k mostly (sometimes I go up to the 2k) and then a 7/5 micron strop. The 8k is ok-ish. 12k is an amazing polishing stone if you're looking for an extremely refined and polished edge. Imo for the price these are by far the best bang for your buck. They last forever and measure up to chosera in quality (chosera 10k is butter though) but are much cheaper. Cool to see my comment make it into your video.
Aren’t Chosera stones similar to Shapton in price range? I compared 800 grit Chosera which costs 66 dollars and it’s comparable to Shapton 1000 grit which costs 55. I just compared stones in that 1000 grit range. Maybe there is discrepancy in other grit areas. Also there are different series.
@@proudbacteria1373 they didn't used to be. Shapton pro 1k used to be $40. For some reason their prices went up but not so much on Chosera. Before it was quite a bit difference in price for similar grit stones, so it made sense to get Shapton to save money. Now it's which ever you prefer or can find.
My Set just arrived and the first edge is done. They are amazing in particular if you consider the price. I don't know how much I have spent on sharpening stuff but these could replace most of it.
Theyre up to $57 now ,as of 1/1/24 ….am a novice at sharpening and have honestly sucked at it for decades but am trying to get to get better and am stocking up on gear …recently got a strop for the first time and a dmt double sided fine/ extra fine diamond plate… the plate is a quandary to me. Most “ how to vids” say not to put much pressure ,so i dont …but cant seem to get any type of real bur (now that i know im suppose to get one lol)….so i use an old cheap heavy grit double sided like a 120/240 (think its like a iron oxide or some other cheap compound of some sort?) and get a small bur line ….when i remove the bur ,finish up with dmt and strop the knife seems to get smoother yes but also seems to dull some ….I don’t know if its my knifes aren’t the $200 blades youre using here (have couple different older buck locking blades ,and leatherman utility blade, mora kniv, oh and a old Japanese straight sheath knife ive had simce the 80’s(that ive had machinists try to edge for me and i get sharper than they did ,though not near what id like )and another buck straight sheath blade . My buck locking blades i can get to half decent edges but they dint seem to hold it past a few cuts ,i assume because of my technique 🤷🏼♂️…hence why im here researching lol…. I don’t know if im ready to buy more stones but your associate link only had like a couple reviews on amazon ,all 5 stars but I don’t know …i hate possibly throwing money away as tempting as this is ….off to read some comments here and decide 🤷🏼♂️😬….oh and you put a link for a “bad” stone ….? It looked ok but ill take your word for it ,odd you put a link for it ..? But as shitty as it is it had a clip on angle guide ,are those (clip on guides)any good in general? Imwomder if im not keeping my angle correct or something ….?
Well i just bought 320, 1000 and 5000 based on many recommendations and your videos... I had some cheap pull through sharpeners which seemed to screw up my knifes. I have quite some nicks in the blade and its more like sawing than cutting. I hope i can learn to sharpen my knives so they will last and I finally have fun cutting again
I use Shapton stones to hone my straight razors. The quality and the ease of use of these stones is unbelievable ! And funny thing is that Shapton 12K didn't had good reviews online and people was not happy with the stone. I've got it and try it on my razors and LOVED IT !!! So much that I bought a second one for spare ! I had Naniwa Gouken 12K and that stone have limitations. I can't hone more than 15 passes cos after ruin my razor edges. It has a plasticky feeling and the razor does not glide smoothly. With the Shapton 12K I can even over hone the razor and still not ruin the edge plus it leaves a mirror polish on the edge. As for the scratches you see on your edges that has to do with the light angle. If you light your edge on your scope directly above no matter what hone you've done you will always see scratches.If you throw the light in an angle you will see the mirror finish in your scope.
So I bought a 3 set of these and I might end up returning them, I haven't used them yet. Right now I have a cheap no name coarse and medium stone and a spyderco fine stone that is slight bow in it. For me that's not an issue because the bow is only like 0.5 or 1 mm from side to side but it does rock a bit. I've never done a mirror polish in my life but I can get a hair popping, paper towel slicing (though toothy) edge. The Shapton stones are flatter than the spyderco but the 5000 grit feels more course than my spyderco fine stone. But the meat of my comment is that the directions for these stones have were in Japanese which lead me to visit their site and discovering these stones have a lot of restrictions. They state not to use detergents to clean as they say that can soften the stones and change it's performance. Same deal with soaking the stones for more than 30 mins in water. They also say the best way to unclog the stones are to using their lapping disc/dressing stone or to flatten the stone with their flattening products, again no detergents or the like. They also say not to attempt to dry the stones, to leave them outdoors, or to use hot water as these can all crack their stones. Also no dishwashing probably because that involves both hot water and detergent. Also I think they might not be sintered like a spyderco ceramic but instead a bonded ceramic hence the weakness to soaps. Long story short, I'm sure these are extra conservative precautions but they are a hell of a lot more restrictive than a spyderco ceramic stone so I might grab those instead while they're still in stock. Your channel is actually what put me on to spyderco ceramics in the first place so if you see this I'd like to know your opinion, do these perform better than spyderco ceramics and have you experience any loss in performance (you mentioned you do use soapy water which according to the makers is a no no)? And how does the durability compare to spyderco's?
I go from the 1000 straight to the 8000 and never saw an issue with doing that. It takes the scratches out, removes the burr and leaves a mirror polish. That might take one or two strokes more than with another stone in between but it´s good enough for me.
I've got the 1000 and 2000, used them for years and I daresay I will pass them on to my sons. They give a scary sharp edge and I haven't bothered to get any others. I have a Norton 4000/8000 combo that I bust out every now and again.
Just the video instruction I was looking for. Thank you! Of course, Amazon cost for the three stones total $200, as of today. I'm definitely getting the 1000 today.
I’ve never use a Shapton pro 1000 but I have a Shapton pro 12,000 and it’s held up really well. I’ve sharpened everything up to zdp-189 and it was able to withstand that
I gotta say, I had to order a couple, the 1000 and 2000, after watching this video and I agree. These are the nicest stones I’ve ever owned. I really like them.😃👍🏻
I bought the Shapton 1000 as a one-stone system based on your recommendation, and I love it! I'd like to move to a two stone system for an even sharper edge on my general purpose carbon steel / stain-less kitchen knives, which I use mostly for veg prep. I'm not interested in a three stone system. I thought that 1000 would pair up nicely with a 3000 or 4000. But Shapton only offer the 1000, 2000 or 5000, unless I finish on a Shapton Glass or Rock Star 3/4000, which use a different grit size system, which I can't work out. What should I do?
Great videos. I just got into sharpening, you have been my resource. I bought the full lineup of Shapton Kuromakus up to 12k. Now every knife in my house can shave hair. On to mastering straight razors, swords and tools. Thoroughly enjoying this new found hobby
I start with the Sharpal diamond dual sided stone (320 - 1200) and once I do 10 passes on each side of the knife and then on each side of the stone) I move onto the Shapton 2,000 Grit Kuromaku, then I go to the Shapton Kuromaku 5,000 grit. Once I finish with those, I move over to my leather strop with the 4 micron wicked edge diamond emulsion spray. It's AMAZING.
I just ordered grits 320 through 5000 after watching this video. I've been searching for replacements for my cheaper stones that dished out, and I chose these over DMTs since I don't really like the feel of diamond stones.
My primary stones have been this line of Shapton's in the 1k, 2k, 5k, 8k, and 12k offerings. Depending on what I am working with, I also have Shapton Glass 500, 1000, 3000, 8000, 16000, and 30000 models. These and their glass stones are super freaking amazing! Imagine these on steroids, with even better feedback and "flatness", and that is the Shapton glass variants. a little pricier, but they have their place! Excellent stones for anyone!
@@Jymyte My pleasure! To help a little further, the Glass Stones are guaranteed flat OOTB, as that is the design behind them. They also do not dish quickly, and maintain their flatness much longer. The Kuromaku stones though ALSO come flat OOTB, and I have only had 1 that was super, and I mean SUPER slightly "less than flat" but nowhere close enough to matter when finishing and edge. I can tell you that the feedback on my Kuromaku 8k vs. the Shapton glass 8k is minimal. I would say the feedback is a little more "rough" on the Kuromaku, but not in some crazy bad way, if that makes sense? The glass stones just feel like, well, glass! Pun intended, but of course they aren't called Glass because of that, though... lol If you want to know anything more about them I would be more than happy to answer. I have been using them quite some time now as well as the Kuromaku and use them at least 3 times a week. I just added the 220 Glass variant to the mix , and used it to put a brand new edge on a knife I forged (just to see how easily I could). It was a 1095 knife I forged, and RH was 61.. The Shapton Glass 220 put an edge on it in under 3 minutes. I don't normally do it that way, but wanted to test and see how quickly and efficiently it could do it.
Shapton is great. I'm very happy with my Shapton glass stones both for woodworking handtools and Global kitchen knives. I still have a few others to change to Shaptons, not because to old ones isn't good but because Shapton just feels better. I would like to see an honest comparison between Shapton and Naniwa another brand that also seems to make very good stones.
Another risk of skipping grits is that your knife (or whatever you're grinding/sharpening) could start wearing out your stone much faster than expected. This is a bigger issue with woodworking/sanding because the wood will just tear through the paper before any material is taken off but the concept transfers to this.
Ive tried many different stones and imo,these are the best. Greatest thing is that they are splash and go. They price makes it a no brainer ,imo. Best bang for your buck you might find.
I _finally_ received the Kuromaku 1000 and 2000 I ordered 5 months ago. I'm pretty sure that this video is at least partially to blame for the worldwide shortage of these stones… Luckily I'm patient and have no acute need to sharpen knives, and I paid the normal price. I simply reckoned that if I would buy a set of stones, these should be all I'll need for the rest of my life. So, it's finally time to get sharpening!
Ceramic - only thing is "don't drop it". I'll take a DMT metal/diamond plate over this for the same cost. Thanks for posting this alternative that is also very nice being ceramic.
I’m considering the Atoma 1200 diamond stone (along with the Atoma 400) instead of the Shapton 1000. The Shapton sure does get rave reviews, though. Any thoughts?
I am with you on these stones, for the price and solidness of them, they are superior to anything else I have used. I did spluge on the a dia-flat to flatten them whenever it is needed however. Other than that they are exceptional to anything else.
It would be great to have a video about how to care of these stones :-) I saw some laping disc from Shapton, but not sure if that's enough? Also is it a way to flatten the stone? Seems like it is not that big of area with the disc, I planned to use the sanding paper as in your older video. But it would be nice to see complete guide from reliable source (you! 😁) focused on these stones. Thanks for taking me out of the market for expensive sharpening systems!
Thanks for the heads up on this stone. Mine just arrived and so far I think you were right about them. Some softer light might help your photos. Either a classic light tent or, believe it or not, some LED lights through plastic storage containers.
I just bought these because of your last video and love them so much I got the 1000, 1500, and the 5000 with an 8000 grit nagura stone, I plan to get the 2000 as well and either the 220 or the 320 stone for chips and reshaping. They are fantastic and breeze thru my hardest steel knives. So glad I found your channel, i was hunting a reasonably priced high end set of stones, it was the first video of yours I watched, I've watched like 20 since then lol
I just sharpened my first knife with the 1000 grit stone. Its S35VN steel. I always hated water stone sharpening, but this stone is like a cheat code its so damn easy.
Great review as always, one thing I believe that is missing is that with lower HRC knives(sub 60) the 5000 doesn't do anything when it comes to sharpness. Also a very easy way to check for dishing is to use a pencil and draw Xs on the surface start flattening and a dish will be easily visible. All of this being said really love your work, the video on axes was amazing!
@@llllllllllllllllllllll1116 correct, when I first heard it I didn't think it was right, I've sharpened about 20 knives since then and can confirm that 2k is the highest I go. Stropping is still a must though.
@@llllllllllllllllllllll1116 Also haven't seen testing, I was given this guidance by two seperate profesional knife sharpeners in the UK. So tested the theory and can confirm they are correct for soft stainless knives. Seperately I own two Japanese knives + a custom carbon steel petty all at around 63/5HRC and for them I go up to a 5k then strop and they get screaming sharp.
Have a full set of 100, 2000, 5000, 8000, and 12000. Absolutely love each and every one of them, use them for my pocket knives and kitchen knives, from standard stainless to M390 and they cut through it all. I do recommend some sort of flattening stone as they do wear put over time and dish out or load up with deposits. But yeah great video! Hope more people use these wonderful stones and start their journey sharpening!
Ordered the 2000 for 24 dollars and free international shipping. Was suspicious but thanks for the review. Never see you review Arkansas stones? Always reliable for myself
I've used these for several years now. I've found them to be excellent for high-carbon steel knives but less so on stainless blades. They still work on stainless but take more work than with other bench stones I have. Cheers.
I discovered your channel the other day. I subscribed. Im really enjoying the videos. 👍 I currently have Norton wetstones in 220,1000,4000 grit. Your making me want more stones 😄
My first Kuromaku, the Shapton Kuromaku 1000 that I order after watching the last video, is arriving today. Really looking forward to it and I suspect I will spend quite some time with it and all my knives. Going from the cheap chinese slurry-stones that I been learning to sharpen on I have high hopes for this one.
If you like these you would absolutely love the Glass. Tighter controlled scratch patterns on the glass stones and more/faster cutting horsepower along with a very silky feel. I have a set of both and I truly love both types but the glass stones are just better across the board.
I disagree to an extent, respectfully. The 1000 glass stone works extremely slowly, to the point that i’d be sharpening, with correct form, for at least 5-7 minutes, forming zero detectable burr. After that long, a good 1000 should form a burr. It got to the point that I stopped using it, and I now use a 1500 Kuromaku in place of the 1000 glass. The 4000 and 8000 glass stones I have are fantastic and polish great, but I still prefer the Kuromakus. Again, I respect the difference in opinion, and if you have any tips I’d greatly appreciate it.
@@Him__3000hmmm, no I think I agree with the op. I think that the 1000 shapton glass is my fastest cutting stone (in that grit range), bar maybe a diamond stone.
@@jez76interesting.. perhaps my standards are off for a 1000, do you find you get a fast bur with the glass 1000? I’ve done test after test on all manner of knife and steel and I can never get a solid bur. I make sure i’m contacting the apex and using good form, it just never works. So weird. As I said already, I switched to the 1500 kuromaku, and I get a bur on that stone within 3 minutes of sharpening, of course depending on dullness. I also find that when I go to my glass polishing stones afterwards it seems to reduce the “bite” and sharpness of the edge. My hope is to get the Kuromaku set shown in the video, and test some knives to see if the fault is the glass stones or my own skills and expectations. Thanks for responding to my reply and making me actually think about this. 👍
@@Him__3000 Sure thing. Just a week ago I sharpened 4 knifes from work, and i think I did them all in about 20 minutes. Started on the 1000, then a 6000 and strops. They were no high hrc knives by any means, but was quite amazed how quick the session was, with about one to two minutes +/- on the 1000 before it was perfectly apexed and ready for next step.
@@Him__3000 thats because the 500 glass is the replacement for the 1000 pro. The difference between these lines is the pro is a harder and less friable stone.
I got the shapton 200 diamond as a flattening stone/ profiling others knives for sharpening I got the shapton glas 1000 and 6000. I had mine for about 4 years now and i love them but after seeing this im thinking about getting the 2000 too
I have an unrelated request if possible. Can you please consider doing a video on the proper heat treatment/quench of 1095? I see conflicting information out there, however Larrin Thomas' channel shows water quenching to be the most effective method. I'm super curious for your take/testing on this! Great video!
Water or parks 50. Each batch of 1095 should be tested its really not a good steel to use unless you have a hardness tester to confirm results. I have had mixed results even using a temperature controlled kiln and water/ parks50. It needs an almost instantaneous quench in order to harden properly. I don't even have any on hand since I don't like to use it. 1084 will give you everything 1095 will with better harden ability.
I just have two EDC knives. SRK-C for killing and a CRKT Dextro for utility. I got a nice japanese ceramic whetstone with 1000/6000 grit and a quality strop. It's more than enough for maintaining an edge. If I need to redefine an edge I use a crappy 400 grit aluminium oxide whetstone, almost never had to use it.
I think the jump from 1000 to 2000 is a bit overkill, but ok. I have the 320 and the 2000 and this jump is really fine. Also, to resharpen knives, 2000 is more than enough. The stone is really hard and cuts fast. For higher grids, I prefere suehiro. But still, I can recommend shapton.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Links to everything discussed in the description.🙂 UPDATED⬇
Shapton 1000⬇
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Shapton 2000⬇
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Shapton 5000⬇
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As an associate I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you. Everything purchased in this video was purchased with my own money.
How are these stones made? What is the binder (if any) that they use to hold the grit together?
What makes these stones so good compared to other low cost China made sharpening stones?
I made the mistake of buying a full set of Kuromaka stones about 8 or 9 years ago. They are the best thing since sliced bread. Only problem I have, I only use 300, 1000 and 5000. I do get dishing on the 300 after a while. I'd like to suggest you turn your stones and use the opposite side, keeping your label clear.
You know you could have just killed the edge on the side of the sharpening stone like DrMatt357 does 😆Way more clean.
Yo ... just a tip about photography or video of reflective objects ...
DON'T USE AUTOFOCUS!! :) In MF, you'll have ZERO problems
getting whatever you want in focus with the right Depth of Field
Can you please do a video about how you choose which micron stropping compound // emulsion ?
Do you prefer leather strops or that fiber cloth thing from jende + emulsion ..? thanks dude.
I self-taught myself to sharpen a few years ago using many of your videos as an aid. I am now in my second year of college, working my @$$ off to pay my way through it. I actually ended up bringing down my sharpening stones after winter break because word that I am good at sharpening blades got out. I was just using my Work Sharp Field sharpener with just the two stones, ceramic rod, and leather strop to help some friends before then. When got my proper sharpening stones down here, I started making money sharpening knives and broad head. I am going to school for Natural Resources Law Enforcement by the way.
These are great stones, particularly considering the price. I was not aware of the 2,000. I have the 320 wirepuller for profiling machetes, axes, and really dull knives. I also have the 600, 1,000, 5,000, 8,000 and 12,000. Rarely do I use anything above the 5,000 except for some very high-end kitchen knives...original German Hinkle's. I actually prefer a slightly toothy edge on my frequently used cheaper kitchen knives. I will be grabbing a 2,000 as that should bring a kitchen knife to where you really want it. BTW, I always preserve the printed side of the stone for occasional flattening of the other stones. It is amazing the text has held up to this use. If and when it wears off I will mark that side with a sharpy. For those wondering about the wear of the stones...it is negligible. You will eventually get some slight dishing on the 1,000 so, hit it a little bit every 5-6 heavy uses with the backside of another stone. I hit the 1,000 with the back of the 600 then with the 5,000. To check flatness I use the zig zag pencil marking then go through flattening. Very seldom does it require more than a few passes.
there is no 600. Shapton doesn't make anything in 600 grit. They have a 320 pro and 1k pro and they have a 500 glass and 1k glass.
@@jeffhicks8428 You are correct. My bad. When I posted that I said to myself, get off your ass go get them and make sure. It is indeed the blue case one I have marked 320. I rarely use it. I have used it on hatchets, axes and machetes as well as an Old Hickory kitchen butcher knife rescued. I also I use it to flatten my other stones.
Man, there’s such a deep authenticity to this work/this video.
Not sure if you’re working to try to blow up your channel or just put great things out, but, sincerely, thank you for doing this work
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words 👊
I just bought the 1000 and im blown away. Perfect for kitchen knifes. 10/10 would recommend
What about hunting knives
@@rickwhitson2804get it. The 1000 grit is good enough for any hunting knife. Get a strop with compound and that's all you need.
@@rickwhitson2804I would think that hunting knives and kitchen knives are the same thing. Based on videos about this stone I have seen if it worth it you just have to know how to use it so you don’t ruin your knives or the stone
This video prompted me to dig through my old water stone collection, only to find I had two very old hand made Japanese stones one at 6000 and a 10,000 grit. I can only imagine an old Japanese master Samurai sword maker finds one day he's missing a couple of his favourites water stones! Absolutely exquisite stones for honing my favourite cut throat razor to a mirror finish hair-whittling perfection. 👍
Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience. ⭐
On a more sombre note: Sadly 'everyday' skills like knife sharpening are not being passed down by parents and I believe these essential DIY skills are what separates a survivor from someone who will ultimately perish when 'consumers' are left to fend for themselves. And that inevitable day is sadly just over the horizon, if humanity doesn't get it's act together soon. 🤔
I am a big fan of the Shapton Kuromaku stones. I use them for my woodworking tools. Going on 6 years with them (1500, 5000, 8000, 12000) Nowhere near wearing them out yet, although I do flatten them much more than what I would if they were used for knife sharpening. The 1500 has seen the most wear, and it's used maybe 15% of it's life in those 6 years. Each flattening only takes off a few thousandths of an inch. You have described them perfectly.
Yes wood working tools definitely require more flattening since they have to be perfect. Thanks for the feedback👍
Im looking I to these Stones for sharpening my plane blades. Can you tell me how well they stay flat compared to softer wetstones? Im having to flattening my wetstones before every use for my plane blades an really want to make my life a little easier.
Good info 😎👊💥
@@karelenhenkie666 Sorry it took this long to answer, as I just saw your question. They are very hard stones, and lets say your softer stones need fattening every time, these will allow you to do 3 or 4 sharpenings before flattening is required. It's actually a hard question to answer since there are so many variables. Bottom line, there are very few stones that take longer to dish than these. The Naniwa Chosera line of stones are generally more expensive and are the only ones I've used that last longer between flattenings.
There are people who swear by the Shapton glass stones and they are actually harder than the Kuromaku stones, but I'm not a fan of the glass stones. I find them too hard, if that makes any sense. Could be a failing on my part. The Kuromaku and the Naniwa Chosera stones are among the best out there IMHO. (the newer Naniwa stones they call the professional line are the new version of the Choseras and are more expensive.)
I have to thank you, these stones are so good and the feedback makes them almost intuitive to use. I bought the 1000 grit and was so blown away I had to order the rest of the set. These actually work on my Japanese super blue steel leather knives.
ofc they work on super blue. it's a low alloy steel that's very easy to sharpen. super blue has like half the edge retention of a basic stainless steel like VG10. And yea these stones great for all of those things, any low alloy steels, any kitchen knife stainless, etc.. Don't waste your time above the lower grits on any vanadium alloy steels though. The 220 and 320 in this line are Silicon Carbide and will cut vanadium steels without issue. Beyond that, I'd use something else unless you actually want a "carbide rich edge."
i might be late but i have a question. is this stone beginner friendly? the stones i have at home are so bad and i just found this vid. would you recommend this to a beginner?
@@cxshxnly7gotta learn on something, might as well be a good stone that you can’t mess up, can easily afford and you will use for years and years to come,
@@cxshxnly7Yeah. This guy's made videos on the generic stones Beginners often get, and they're no better than using a brick. These are his recommendation, other than getting a 3-400 grit diamond plate first for profiling.
Your enthusiasm for the Shapton and sharpening in general is such a delight; thank-you for all the videos over the years. Such rapt devotion to these new stones gives a student of yours, like myself, pause. There have been a few "best ever stones," last stones you'll ever need etc. As always there are plus and minuses I'm sure, but my head spins as we go from DMT fine to Sypderco medium to now the Shapton...in another month, should I brace for the Naniwa Chosera video? Not cheap but surely a man in your line of work deserves the best! :) Did appreciate you looping back with a contrasting comment on the DMT...very much appreciated. This viewer has a delicate case of sharpening stone FOMO and values your experience based opinion! Keep'em coming. ;)
Its very difficult because theres a lot of good stones out there. None of said stones are bad but each have advantages and disadvantages depending on your needs. Thanks for the comment 👍
I bought one, Alex. I’m VERY happy!! Everything I own is now 1000 grit sharp! Thank you So Much. Now trying to maintain a constant bevel hold - that’s another story.
Alex, there is lots of knife and sharpening content on here. YOU are my go-to guy. Thanks.
I have just that set and I do love them.. Rarely go above #2k for kitchen knives. Also have their #120 which I love.
I’m just getting into knives, and, based on the comments you displayed, I have a feeling I’m pretty lucky to receive these recommendations at this point in time. Thank you!
Totally agree…….I have the 1000 grit and 1500 grit and love both of them. The 1500 grit is probably my all-time favorite stone of any I’ve ever used including my naniwa’s.
I bought the 1000 grit to start learning how to free-hand sharpen. It's a bit of a challenge to hold the correct angle. I'm trying to lock my wrist as you mentioned in earlier videos. It's a skill I really would like to learn. I have used the Lansky kit for 30-plus years. I appreciate your videos! I also started my first knife-making project out of 1080 steel. You make it look easy, it is NOT!!
Rather than trying to hold your wrist at a fixed angle, you might develop a feel for when the bevel is flat against the stone. It's just as accurate and, IMO, more natural. Our limbs are designed to move in circles and consistent straight line motion doesn't come that easy.
Protip - bend Your knees and keep back straight, the blade should waist high. In this position it's very ease to lock the wrist, since movement is off-center.
A tip for viewing objects under microscope/macro lenses: Use back lighting. When the surface is reflecting and the background is dark, it will blow out your image. By using a little backlight, you reduce the contrast, and it will be easier for the camera to get a picture that doesnt blow out the lighter parts of the image.
@@findonknifesharpening you're welcome mate👍
yeah but even more important ..? And a simple point many many (esp youtubers) forget..?
MANUAL FOCUS! lol. And of course, a 'fast' lens (large depth of field) that's just enough for the depth.
@@trumanhw Using AF for this would be a nightmare😂
@@corpusmori4657 I would rather move the knife in focus or use a macro slider for microadjustments.
The Shapton pro 2000 is the only stone I personally need. I have come to realize why people rave about it on forums. I have other stones but this one serves all my needs as I never let my knives get dull. A Japanese blue steel #2 carbon knife on a Shapton 2000 is a match made in heaven. I have read that the Glass series stones are better for high end stainless but I have yet to test that out. Customers' cheap knives get what they deserve: the belt sander.
There are 1000, 1500 and 2000 Shapton stones. I’m wondering if 1500 grit stone will be the most universal if you get only one stone in that grit range?
@@proudbacteria1373 I find that with a decent 400 (I have a Naniwa Pro green) I can go straight to the 2000. For damaged or very dull knives I use Norton Green 120 sandpaper (on wood with double sided tape) or the belt sander. I have a 5000 Suehiro Rika but don't use it much as the 2000 gets an edge that is plenty good enough for kitchen work and it's such a flexible stone that with a very light touch I can get a 3000 edge from it. The strop is just as important as the stone and I use the yellow Flexcut compound for extra abrasion.
Hey man. I have a huge collection of Japanese whetstones. i love these stones. I'd suggest you add the 320. it's an INCREDIBLE stone for what it is, which is SIC. So much smoother and nicer than most SIC stones. These stones are known for being extremely hard, wearing very slow and still cutting well. They're great for all that, fantastic for edges. The one area they lack is doing large bevels. That's where other stones like the chosera shine for a sng. or the glass series from shapton which is designed to be more like the chosera. that means it's just slightly less hard, wears slightly faster, still very hard and slow, but... they give off noticably more slurry and do a much better job on big ol bevels and whatnot. They are noticably more friable. The shapton pros are just known for being the hardest and slowest wearing on the block. the 320 which is sic is ofc more friable.
The 2k is one of my favorites. The 120 is an amazing ultra course grinding stone. The 320 is fantastic. 1k is more like 600 or 800 and it's great. the 5k is very glassy and good for deburring. The 12k is another amazing stone. I like it much more than the 5k but it obviously doesn't have the same strength, as in I've reshapened dull razors on nothing but that 5k and it moves steel, the 12k wouldn't do all that. Much higher polish tho. Anyhow cheers.
if you want to venture out. The 400 chosera is maybe the all time greatest stone. you can get a 15 mm version off amazon for like $40. Also a big fan of the naniwa super stones for polishing, finishing, large bevels and doing delicate work like razors.
After years of trying and failing to sharpen knives on stones i finally managed to get a good edge using you advice about not moving hands/wrists. Ive ordered the 1000 stone and im looking forward to trying it with my new found skill . Thank you
That is awesome! Glad You are getting good results👍
@OUTDOORS55 being ambidextrous helps . I do 4 passes with the knife in one hand then swap hand for the other side
Great work.
This is a huge value for the aspiring pro.
I've been cooking professionally for 35+ years and I had to learn all this the hard way.
I usually stick with the King 1000 grit. It's huge, lasts forever and gets the job done. Plus, I share it with other knuckleheads...
BTW an episode on care and maintenance of whetstones would be great. It's best to store them dry...
I just found your channel and I'll see if you discussed this already.
Agreed, fantastic stones, but i disagree about skipping grits. For the general user, even daily, who is not mirror polishing, running stones in order is unnecessary. A kuromaku 320 / 1000 /5000 is all most will need. Throw in a green compound strop at the end, and you can shave whatever body part you wish, if you dont cut it off trying. This is my daily kit for sharpening, and it works incredible. And yes , i use the 320 regularly, i enjoy refurbishing knives that have been giving up on. It makes a huge difference having a true rough stone for fast cutting. Everything, i completely agree with. Awesome video and great information put out !!!
I struggle with this because on one jand you can skip and get better results than the previous stone. However, on the other hand you can not remove 1000 grit scratches with the 5000 grit. So I usually recommend buying grits in order so as you are always adding better results. Not filling in. If that makes sense.
Well done video! I confess I never put my kitchen knives on a stone. In fact it's rare I need to actually sharpen them, and I do a lot of food prep. I hone after every use with 1200gr & 8000gr ceramic rods, The only times I actually need to 'sharpen' is after some kind kitchen helper tosses them into the sink, hits a glass, ceramic plate or steel pot. I then use a diamond 600gr steel to re-shape & get rid of nicks. A fine-cut steel for my steak knives to straighten the wire as I like a slight bit of tooth on the edge especially for BBQ meat.
HOWEVER, in my shop, planes, bench chisels, carving knives & chisels, drawknives & carving axes/adze, I'm very fussy. My best stones are Bester/Imanishi. 2000, 4000, 8000. For very small carving chisels, veiners, gouges & parting tools, I use smaller, hard ceramics to avoid gouging the stones. I also use diamond stones if I'm flattening or re-shaping a dropped tool, plus diamond films, and two hard maple strops, one using black emery, the other green ultra fine, roughly 0.5 microns. I like the hard maple as my edges don't round-over as is possible using leather. I feel it gives me more control over & precision with the edge & material.
My large DMT diamond bench stones include all grit-sizes, but honestly, even the 8000 doesn't get to planing/carving-sharp like the hard ceramic 8000 or Imanishi 8000 do.
I've been thinking about adding a couple Shaptons, and Spyderco hard, large ceramics, then look at the grand total, then look at my large collection of stones, plates, films, shake my head and keep delaying.
😂 I did see my name come up in the first minute of this vid! I’ve recently purchased the 2000 shapton and just fell in love with it! Your 100% correct you can go 1k-5k but that middle 2k stone is literally takes the edge to another level! Thanks for explaining everything so it doesn’t look like I’m the only mad person on this planet when I explain to my customers why it’s needed 👍
its cuz the 1k stone in this line is more like a 600 or 800 at best. Great stone for getting the job done. The 2k stone is considered by many to be the best stone in this entire line. It's fantastic.
@@jeffhicks8428 it’s actually extremely close to the 500 shapton glass!! But for the price! And actual performance of the 1k shapton pro! It’s a stone I do take with me to many restaurants and salon sharpenings especially now with the 2k it’s definitely a perfect combo
@@Suttonsharpens yes, the 500 glass is considered to be the equivalent stone to the pro line as the 1k.
Shapton Kuromaku and Naniwa Chosera, they're the best! The Shapton stones come at really great prices too.
Oh god. The world's worst stone link took me straight to the one I bought when I wanted to get started.
I bought more and the 8000 grit is coarser than the 6000 grit.
I will return what I can and I will take your advice on these three.
In Sweden we have a phrase called "learning money" or rather "learning cost". I spent money and I learned my lesson...
i watched, giggled madly, and was reminded of the book Reaper Man by Terry Pratchett: there's a part where Death is sharpening a scythe blade: "First on a grindstone, then on an oilstone, then on a steel. It was too blunt. Miss Flitworth supplied, from her rag bag, satin, then silk, finest white silk, never worn (from her wedding dress). It was still blunt. Then it was sharpened on cobweb. Then on the breeze at dawn. Finally, on the light of the new day."
From watching your video's i've managed to get to being able to use paper towels and (once) toilet tissue for paper cutting test but haven't managed the hair whittling yet. just gotta practice... and buy better knives with good steel.
I also love that chapter, one of my favourite in the whole series…
Don't know if you will see this.
But since you really like these. Maybe give the shapton glass a try also. They seem like they might be even more up your alley, since they should dish even less. And are potentially even more accurately graded in their abrassive size.
From what i remember the price isnt much higher, though the stones are thinner. Though it makes up for it with the slower wear.
I love these stones. I have those 3. But I would recommend adding the blue 320. And if you want to geek out a bit try the black Arkansas stone - its a dream finishing stone. I use it almost like a strop.
everyone else tell on forum you need diamond stones for cpm s110v. Those shapton diamond stones are 3 times as expensive as this set you recommended. at first i felt bad because i deceided to also buy the manix 2 in s110v. than i kinda regret that i bought this 1000 2000 5000 set you recommended. Now today i see you sharpen the 110v same knife as i have on these stones. I feel good about my purchase again. Thanks alot for this video! now i need to learn how to sharpen a expensive hard steel like this.
I started using the Shaptons a few months ago and have been extremely satisfied with them. I use the 5000 in combination with a shale (soft) stone that I collect from the hills here in Belgium for a high-gloss finish.
Yeah, that 1k is an absolute classic. Suggestion: comparison of major stone maker's "X"k stones. Makers like Chosera, King, Naniwa, Shapton, Suehiro. Comparing specific grits and what they are made of and how accurate the "X" grit really is. Another thought: soakers versus splashers; what's beyond the obvious difference.
Id love to do all of those. Honestly the things holding me back is spending the money buying them all. 😂
Chosera is a stone made by Naniwa
I have 3 of them, but i always spent 30 mins minimum for each knife, look like i have to retraining my sharpen skill, tks for sharing
Love these stones. 1k, 2k and 5k have incredible feedback and each one gives you a great edge that you can use. For my kitchen knives I use 1k mostly (sometimes I go up to the 2k) and then a 7/5 micron strop. The 8k is ok-ish. 12k is an amazing polishing stone if you're looking for an extremely refined and polished edge. Imo for the price these are by far the best bang for your buck. They last forever and measure up to chosera in quality (chosera 10k is butter though) but are much cheaper. Cool to see my comment make it into your video.
Aren’t Chosera stones similar to Shapton in price range? I compared 800 grit Chosera which costs 66 dollars and it’s comparable to Shapton 1000 grit which costs 55. I just compared stones in that 1000 grit range. Maybe there is discrepancy in other grit areas. Also there are different series.
@@proudbacteria1373 they didn't used to be. Shapton pro 1k used to be $40. For some reason their prices went up but not so much on Chosera. Before it was quite a bit difference in price for similar grit stones, so it made sense to get Shapton to save money. Now it's which ever you prefer or can find.
My Set just arrived and the first edge is done. They are amazing in particular if you consider the price. I don't know how much I have spent on sharpening stuff but these could replace most of it.
Theyre up to $57 now ,as of 1/1/24 ….am a novice at sharpening and have honestly sucked at it for decades but am trying to get to get better and am stocking up on gear …recently got a strop for the first time and a dmt double sided fine/ extra fine diamond plate… the plate is a quandary to me. Most “ how to vids” say not to put much pressure ,so i dont …but cant seem to get any type of real bur (now that i know im suppose to get one lol)….so i use an old cheap heavy grit double sided like a 120/240 (think its like a iron oxide or some other cheap compound of some sort?) and get a small bur line ….when i remove the bur ,finish up with dmt and strop the knife seems to get smoother yes but also seems to dull some ….I don’t know if its my knifes aren’t the $200 blades youre using here (have couple different older buck locking blades ,and leatherman utility blade, mora kniv, oh and a old Japanese straight sheath knife ive had simce the 80’s(that ive had machinists try to edge for me and i get sharper than they did ,though not near what id like )and another buck straight sheath blade . My buck locking blades i can get to half decent edges but they dint seem to hold it past a few cuts ,i assume because of my technique 🤷🏼♂️…hence why im here researching lol…. I don’t know if im ready to buy more stones but your associate link only had like a couple reviews on amazon ,all 5 stars but I don’t know …i hate possibly throwing money away as tempting as this is ….off to read some comments here and decide 🤷🏼♂️😬….oh and you put a link for a “bad” stone ….? It looked ok but ill take your word for it ,odd you put a link for it ..? But as shitty as it is it had a clip on angle guide ,are those (clip on guides)any good in general? Imwomder if im not keeping my angle correct or something ….?
Well i just bought 320, 1000 and 5000 based on many recommendations and your videos...
I had some cheap pull through sharpeners which seemed to screw up my knifes. I have quite some nicks in the blade and its more like sawing than cutting.
I hope i can learn to sharpen my knives so they will last and I finally have fun cutting again
Love Spyderco knives. The only other folder/fixed knife brand that I carry is..., nvmd, just Spyderco...
I use Shapton stones to hone my straight razors. The quality and the ease of use of these stones is unbelievable !
And funny thing is that Shapton 12K didn't had good reviews online and people was not happy with the stone.
I've got it and try it on my razors and LOVED IT !!! So much that I bought a second one for spare !
I had Naniwa Gouken 12K and that stone have limitations. I can't hone more than 15 passes cos after ruin my razor edges. It has a plasticky feeling and the razor does not glide smoothly.
With the Shapton 12K I can even over hone the razor and still not ruin the edge plus it leaves a mirror polish on the edge.
As for the scratches you see on your edges that has to do with the light angle. If you light your edge on your scope directly above no matter what hone you've done you will always see scratches.If you throw the light in an angle you will see the mirror finish in your scope.
So I bought a 3 set of these and I might end up returning them, I haven't used them yet. Right now I have a cheap no name coarse and medium stone and a spyderco fine stone that is slight bow in it. For me that's not an issue because the bow is only like 0.5 or 1 mm from side to side but it does rock a bit. I've never done a mirror polish in my life but I can get a hair popping, paper towel slicing (though toothy) edge. The Shapton stones are flatter than the spyderco but the 5000 grit feels more course than my spyderco fine stone.
But the meat of my comment is that the directions for these stones have were in Japanese which lead me to visit their site and discovering these stones have a lot of restrictions. They state not to use detergents to clean as they say that can soften the stones and change it's performance. Same deal with soaking the stones for more than 30 mins in water. They also say the best way to unclog the stones are to using their lapping disc/dressing stone or to flatten the stone with their flattening products, again no detergents or the like. They also say not to attempt to dry the stones, to leave them outdoors, or to use hot water as these can all crack their stones. Also no dishwashing probably because that involves both hot water and detergent. Also I think they might not be sintered like a spyderco ceramic but instead a bonded ceramic hence the weakness to soaps.
Long story short, I'm sure these are extra conservative precautions but they are a hell of a lot more restrictive than a spyderco ceramic stone so I might grab those instead while they're still in stock. Your channel is actually what put me on to spyderco ceramics in the first place so if you see this I'd like to know your opinion, do these perform better than spyderco ceramics and have you experience any loss in performance (you mentioned you do use soapy water which according to the makers is a no no)? And how does the durability compare to spyderco's?
I go from the 1000 straight to the 8000 and never saw an issue with doing that. It takes the scratches out, removes the burr and leaves a mirror polish. That might take one or two strokes more than with another stone in between but it´s good enough for me.
I just ordered these, per your recommendation. I’m excited!
A good setup King 300, Shapton 1000, Cerax 3000, and Sigma Select II 6000 grit.
I've got the 1000 and 2000, used them for years and I daresay I will pass them on to my sons. They give a scary sharp edge and I haven't bothered to get any others. I have a Norton 4000/8000 combo that I bust out every now and again.
@@dt-sc1000 than if you feel like getting a 2k later than go for it.
Just the video instruction I was looking for. Thank you! Of course, Amazon cost for the three stones total $200, as of today. I'm definitely getting the 1000 today.
I'm convinced. As soon as I wear out my current stones, I'm going to buy a set of these.
It’s lucky to can find you, explanation it’s easy to understand and yes really helpful!!
Woooooah--- that mirror edge! See ya next Prime day stone!
I’ve never use a Shapton pro 1000 but I have a Shapton pro 12,000 and it’s held up really well. I’ve sharpened everything up to zdp-189 and it was able to withstand that
I gotta say, I had to order a couple, the 1000 and 2000, after watching this video and I agree. These are the nicest stones I’ve ever owned. I really like them.😃👍🏻
Glad you like them!
I bought the Shapton 1000 as a one-stone system based on your recommendation, and I love it! I'd like to move to a two stone system for an even sharper edge on my general purpose carbon steel / stain-less kitchen knives, which I use mostly for veg prep. I'm not interested in a three stone system. I thought that 1000 would pair up nicely with a 3000 or 4000. But Shapton only offer the 1000, 2000 or 5000, unless I finish on a Shapton Glass or Rock Star 3/4000, which use a different grit size system, which I can't work out. What should I do?
Great videos. I just got into sharpening, you have been my resource. I bought the full lineup of Shapton Kuromakus up to 12k. Now every knife in my house can shave hair. On to mastering straight razors, swords and tools. Thoroughly enjoying this new found hobby
Awesome to hear! Sounds like you're hooked 👍
How would you compare these stones to the spyderco ceramic stones series? Really nice vidéo.
Going thru the comments I was thinking the same thing, how does it compare?
The HR and G7 series are fast and you have to rinse them frequently if you remove a lot of metal. I love the feedback on them!
Nice work! I want those stones but have good stuff. Thinking about getting them just for fun
The Shapton Kuromaku 1000 arrived yesterday. Tried it, loved it. 😊
I start with the Sharpal diamond dual sided stone (320 - 1200) and once I do 10 passes on each side of the knife and then on each side of the stone) I move onto the Shapton 2,000 Grit Kuromaku, then I go to the Shapton Kuromaku 5,000 grit. Once I finish with those, I move over to my leather strop with the 4 micron wicked edge diamond emulsion spray. It's AMAZING.
I just ordered grits 320 through 5000 after watching this video. I've been searching for replacements for my cheaper stones that dished out, and I chose these over DMTs since I don't really like the feel of diamond stones.
Youll be happier with these. I still love the dmt diamond but they are all work no play. These made sharpening fun again 🙂
My primary stones have been this line of Shapton's in the 1k, 2k, 5k, 8k, and 12k offerings. Depending on what I am working with, I also have Shapton Glass 500, 1000, 3000, 8000, 16000, and 30000 models. These and their glass stones are super freaking amazing! Imagine these on steroids, with even better feedback and "flatness", and that is the Shapton glass variants. a little pricier, but they have their place! Excellent stones for anyone!
I was wondering how the kuromaku compare to the glass ones. Thanks for the input!
@@Jymyte My pleasure! To help a little further, the Glass Stones are guaranteed flat OOTB, as that is the design behind them. They also do not dish quickly, and maintain their flatness much longer. The Kuromaku stones though ALSO come flat OOTB, and I have only had 1 that was super, and I mean SUPER slightly "less than flat" but nowhere close enough to matter when finishing and edge. I can tell you that the feedback on my Kuromaku 8k vs. the Shapton glass 8k is minimal. I would say the feedback is a little more "rough" on the Kuromaku, but not in some crazy bad way, if that makes sense? The glass stones just feel like, well, glass! Pun intended, but of course they aren't called Glass because of that, though... lol If you want to know anything more about them I would be more than happy to answer. I have been using them quite some time now as well as the Kuromaku and use them at least 3 times a week. I just added the 220 Glass variant to the mix , and used it to put a brand new edge on a knife I forged (just to see how easily I could). It was a 1095 knife I forged, and RH was 61.. The Shapton Glass 220 put an edge on it in under 3 minutes. I don't normally do it that way, but wanted to test and see how quickly and efficiently it could do it.
Shapton is great. I'm very happy with my Shapton glass stones both for woodworking handtools and Global kitchen knives. I still have a few others to change to Shaptons, not because to old ones isn't good but because Shapton just feels better.
I would like to see an honest comparison between Shapton and Naniwa another brand that also seems to make very good stones.
You should try suehiro cerax 1000...
I try quite a bit of 1000 grit stone... Cerax is the best for 1000 grit
First rate review ! Will definitely be looking into those . Love sharpening freehand ! Thanks !
Got the 1000 when you posted your first video about it and I am super pleased. Thank you for tip! Went ahead and snagged these two also.
Shapton 2k is my favorite stone. It cuts fast for a fine stone.
Thank you for sharing this information. Most helpful. I enjoy all your videos and appreciate you making them.
Another risk of skipping grits is that your knife (or whatever you're grinding/sharpening) could start wearing out your stone much faster than expected. This is a bigger issue with woodworking/sanding because the wood will just tear through the paper before any material is taken off but the concept transfers to this.
Ive tried many different stones and imo,these are the best. Greatest thing is that they are splash and go.
They price makes it a no brainer ,imo. Best bang for your buck you might find.
I _finally_ received the Kuromaku 1000 and 2000 I ordered 5 months ago. I'm pretty sure that this video is at least partially to blame for the worldwide shortage of these stones…
Luckily I'm patient and have no acute need to sharpen knives, and I paid the normal price. I simply reckoned that if I would buy a set of stones, these should be all I'll need for the rest of my life. So, it's finally time to get sharpening!
Ceramic - only thing is "don't drop it". I'll take a DMT metal/diamond plate over this for the same cost. Thanks for posting this alternative that is also very nice being ceramic.
I’m considering the Atoma 1200 diamond stone (along with the Atoma 400) instead of the Shapton 1000. The Shapton sure does get rave reviews, though. Any thoughts?
Had to go back on this and thank you again! 🎉 I’m going from collecting knives to shapton stones
Thanks for your update but can we get back to the super funny regular schedule videos!!😂 I kinda miss em! 💪🏼❤️🙏🏻
I am with you on these stones, for the price and solidness of them, they are superior to anything else I have used. I did spluge on the a dia-flat to flatten them whenever it is needed however. Other than that they are exceptional to anything else.
It would be great to have a video about how to care of these stones :-) I saw some laping disc from Shapton, but not sure if that's enough? Also is it a way to flatten the stone? Seems like it is not that big of area with the disc, I planned to use the sanding paper as in your older video. But it would be nice to see complete guide from reliable source (you! 😁) focused on these stones. Thanks for taking me out of the market for expensive sharpening systems!
Shapton recommends using one stone to flatten the other, like use the 1000 to flatten/clean the 5000 by rubbing slightly ...
Thanks for the heads up on this stone. Mine just arrived and so far I think you were right about them.
Some softer light might help your photos. Either a classic light tent or, believe it or not, some LED lights through plastic storage containers.
Very cool assortment of sharpening stones. I like it
Shapton, shapton glass, naniwa chosera, naniwa resin bonded diamond stones ♥️
If you care about keeping the printing on your stones, you can just use the side without it and then your stones look good as new all the time.
I just bought these because of your last video and love them so much I got the 1000, 1500, and the 5000 with an 8000 grit nagura stone, I plan to get the 2000 as well and either the 220 or the 320 stone for chips and reshaping. They are fantastic and breeze thru my hardest steel knives. So glad I found your channel, i was hunting a reasonably priced high end set of stones, it was the first video of yours I watched, I've watched like 20 since then lol
I just sharpened my first knife with the 1000 grit stone. Its S35VN steel. I always hated water stone sharpening, but this stone is like a cheat code its so damn easy.
I am certain that you will someday purchase the Naniwa Chosera/Professional line (hopefully 800 and 3000) and do a review similar to this one.
Great review as always, one thing I believe that is missing is that with lower HRC knives(sub 60) the 5000 doesn't do anything when it comes to sharpness.
Also a very easy way to check for dishing is to use a pencil and draw Xs on the surface start flattening and a dish will be easily visible.
All of this being said really love your work, the video on axes was amazing!
Do you mean no polishing stones work on soft knives or just these ones?
@@llllllllllllllllllllll1116 correct, when I first heard it I didn't think it was right, I've sharpened about 20 knives since then and can confirm that 2k is the highest I go. Stropping is still a must though.
@@yavormitev9425 Have you seen any tests on this because I cant find any.
Did you notice a difference on harder steels?
@@llllllllllllllllllllll1116 Also haven't seen testing, I was given this guidance by two seperate profesional knife sharpeners in the UK. So tested the theory and can confirm they are correct for soft stainless knives. Seperately I own two Japanese knives + a custom carbon steel petty all at around 63/5HRC and for them I go up to a 5k then strop and they get screaming sharp.
Have a full set of 100, 2000, 5000, 8000, and 12000. Absolutely love each and every one of them, use them for my pocket knives and kitchen knives, from standard stainless to M390 and they cut through it all. I do recommend some sort of flattening stone as they do wear put over time and dish out or load up with deposits. But yeah great video! Hope more people use these wonderful stones and start their journey sharpening!
nice, that mirror edge looked outstanding
Ordered the 2000 for 24 dollars and free international shipping. Was suspicious but thanks for the review. Never see you review Arkansas stones? Always reliable for myself
Great deal! I got the 1500 for $24 but dont have it yet. Gotta watch those sales 🙂
@@OUTDOORS55 Which is better 1000 or 1500 Shapton if you just can afford only one stone?
I've used these for several years now. I've found them to be excellent for high-carbon steel knives but less so on stainless blades. They still work on stainless but take more work than with other bench stones I have. Cheers.
I discovered your channel the other day. I subscribed. Im really enjoying the videos. 👍
I currently have Norton wetstones in 220,1000,4000 grit. Your making me want more stones 😄
My first Kuromaku, the Shapton Kuromaku 1000 that I order after watching the last video, is arriving today. Really looking forward to it and I suspect I will spend quite some time with it and all my knives. Going from the cheap chinese slurry-stones that I been learning to sharpen on I have high hopes for this one.
So, now I own these.... most excellent
Awesome! I love them. Most of my family and friends have them as well 👍
@OUTDOORS55 those stones with the strop I got from you.... it's easy to keep knives razor sharp.
Try using a polarising filter to get rid of shine
Hey, I'm going to try the set
I was thinking about the dmt recommend by you
And today, you appeared with another recommendation
Cheers, man! I'm still very happy with these too.
If you like these you would absolutely love the Glass. Tighter controlled scratch patterns on the glass stones and more/faster cutting horsepower along with a very silky feel. I have a set of both and I truly love both types but the glass stones are just better across the board.
I disagree to an extent, respectfully. The 1000 glass stone works extremely slowly, to the point that i’d be sharpening, with correct form, for at least 5-7 minutes, forming zero detectable burr. After that long, a good 1000 should form a burr. It got to the point that I stopped using it, and I now use a 1500 Kuromaku in place of the 1000 glass. The 4000 and 8000 glass stones I have are fantastic and polish great, but I still prefer the Kuromakus. Again, I respect the difference in opinion, and if you have any tips I’d greatly appreciate it.
@@Him__3000hmmm, no I think I agree with the op. I think that the 1000 shapton glass is my fastest cutting stone (in that grit range), bar maybe a diamond stone.
@@jez76interesting.. perhaps my standards are off for a 1000, do you find you get a fast bur with the glass 1000? I’ve done test after test on all manner of knife and steel and I can never get a solid bur. I make sure i’m contacting the apex and using good form, it just never works. So weird. As I said already, I switched to the 1500 kuromaku, and I get a bur on that stone within 3 minutes of sharpening, of course depending on dullness. I also find that when I go to my glass polishing stones afterwards it seems to reduce the “bite” and sharpness of the edge. My hope is to get the Kuromaku set shown in the video, and test some knives to see if the fault is the glass stones or my own skills and expectations. Thanks for responding to my reply and making me actually think about this. 👍
@@Him__3000 Sure thing. Just a week ago I sharpened 4 knifes from work, and i think I did them all in about 20 minutes. Started on the 1000, then a 6000 and strops. They were no high hrc knives by any means, but was quite amazed how quick the session was, with about one to two minutes +/- on the 1000 before it was perfectly apexed and ready for next step.
@@Him__3000 thats because the 500 glass is the replacement for the 1000 pro. The difference between these lines is the pro is a harder and less friable stone.
Thanks for the heads up. Been meaning to pick up a better set of stones than the ones i cut my teeth on a few years ago.
Thank you for this video. Excellent information!
I got the shapton 200 diamond as a flattening stone/ profiling others knives for sharpening I got the shapton glas 1000 and 6000. I had mine for about 4 years now and i love them but after seeing this im thinking about getting the 2000 too
The 2k is 🥰
Great stones, really good price! When my Missarka from Zische will wear out I might consider trying them.
I have an unrelated request if possible. Can you please consider doing a video on the proper heat treatment/quench of 1095? I see conflicting information out there, however Larrin Thomas' channel shows water quenching to be the most effective method. I'm super curious for your take/testing on this! Great video!
Water or parks 50. Each batch of 1095 should be tested its really not a good steel to use unless you have a hardness tester to confirm results. I have had mixed results even using a temperature controlled kiln and water/ parks50. It needs an almost instantaneous quench in order to harden properly. I don't even have any on hand since I don't like to use it. 1084 will give you everything 1095 will with better harden ability.
@@OUTDOORS55 Thanks for responding so quick!
Outstanding video I have the same stones plus a 8000 for really polished edges
There is an 8000 there
I just have two EDC knives. SRK-C for killing and a CRKT Dextro for utility. I got a nice japanese ceramic whetstone with 1000/6000 grit and a quality strop. It's more than enough for maintaining an edge. If I need to redefine an edge I use a crappy 400 grit aluminium oxide whetstone, almost never had to use it.
I think the jump from 1000 to 2000 is a bit overkill, but ok. I have the 320 and the 2000 and this jump is really fine. Also, to resharpen knives, 2000 is more than enough. The stone is really hard and cuts fast. For higher grids, I prefere suehiro. But still, I can recommend shapton.
THANKS! Another GREAT Video!!
I couldn't tell in the video, do you get these wet? I'm really interested in these. Thank you for the video!