Had the same issue spent lots of money trying to fix the problem. Well I am about to tell you what I learned and it was the easiest thing to check. advise anyone and everyone to do some homework on what is called the 5 V reference. Not only will you relies how easy as well as dumb the problem is you will know how important it is to learn as much as you can . Problem is that the 2006 RT model needs the ground wire to be completely replaced whats ging on is that the computers are not receiving a constent 5 volt current
German Bahena okay so what you're looking for is the main ground wire that runs from the back of the car where the where the rear control module battery is all the way underneath it you'll have to look and find where it's getting laid out and underneath there all the way up into the engine compartment to the battery I believe or the front control module can't exactly remember which where it was connected to but the thing I did is I got a thicker cable and I made sure that we're I started in the back was a very clean spot of the car and grounded out to the car they're all the way up to the front and then I also grounded it from there from the front in the compartment there to the motor to the engine block start with that let me know if that works for you a 10-day work for me and basically what it's happening is that there's a thing called a 5-volt reference and what it is it's your alternator I believe this ending a constant 5 volt current to your main I believe five or six computers if I remember correct a Dodge Charger anywhere from 16 to 18 I believe if any of those five or six computers is not receiving a constant 5 volt reference or current it'll act as if it was that needs to compensate which is what your car is trying to do and I don't know about you but I am I process of this whole thing I like 30 to 39 something different alarms and codes so I 1st pay no attention to them start with the ground and it is by far the cheapest and the easiest things to work with I don't know if you have an RT or if you have any aftermarket parts if you do that's one reason why you would need to take a ground cable to make sure that I can handle that also I know it's mine I was converting mine into mine was an RT into a Scat Pack stage 1 2 and then finally the stage 3 and every time you put in a high-performance part like that you have to flash the PCM and basically so I can reach the new parameters and things like that sorry this was kind of a long-winded message if you have any problems or questions or anything like that let me know again and then what I'll do is I'll just go ahead and give you my number to text me or call me on in fact you could probably find me on Facebook under Cody Cronen and I will be more than happy to explain a little bit more detail like what I had going on exactly what I was going through and it took me over a year to figure it out. Two Dodge dealerships had my car for over a month and a half each and they could not figure out for the life than what the hell is wrong with it then a buddy of mine had sent me a text message saying research 5-volt reference and I did and it took me awhile to grasp it and understand exactly what they were saying but it worked with these newer cars they are very particular and anytime there's a slightly difference in what the computer knows and what it supposed to know it will throw itself into theft mode or or limp mode Sony time you take an oem park off of the car and replace with an aftermarket car part it will puts off an alarm and put itself in limp mode and stuff so it's very important when you replace these parts and things like that you you get the factory parts or get the actual mopar parts and things like that for your for the car the other issue I had right after the ground wires and sent my car to starter that caught on fire I did notice some loose wiring down there and I didn't really pay attention to it but it end up catching on fire got it out likely fast enough but what happened was because the car caught on fire and he immediately read that an alarm and it shut the shut the fuel pump off and locked it basically so that no fuel to go to the fuel rail so the car doesn't blow up you know what happens when you get in a car accident two cars now they just shut off like that and it won't let you start back up so now I got to go and take my code reader and I got to erase that code and tell the car that it's okay so that the fuel pump will complete the circuit and allow the fuel pump to turn on when I start the car so that's where I'm at right now. one last thing there are ways to check that 5-volt reference you do have to get there is a proper tool for for checking that but you have to really go to a shop or dealership that do it you can look online and I mean I don't know how mechanically inclined or engineering you know how to do but you can build one from scratch and and use it to test like I said let me know If you have any question or need more details on anything then what I'll do is I'll just give you my number or you can find me on Facebook and message me on there and I can definitely give you more information amd or walk you through on what or how to fix it
@@bearclaw23581 ok so mines will stall while I’m driving low speed or high speed or at idle at a stop sign starts right back up usally but will stall again after trying to drive a few seconds or minutes it’s really unpredictable I’ve spent about $700 in parts fuel pump fuel sending unit instrument cluster cleaned throttle body oil pressure switch cleaned all the connectors I could reach and see where your problems like this? Do you think a bigger ground wire will fix my problem only codes I have are o2 sensors now PLEASE HELP!
20bello I know its been a year but I hope you reply. My charger started stalling recently and I have no idea why.. How many sensors did you change and where are they located ? I only know of 2 sensors in the exhaust :/
Khalid AlNajjar there are four sensors in chargers. two before the catalytic converter and 2 after. The 2 before are up near the manifold. you have to get under the car to see them. What codes are you getting?
20bello thank you very much for the reply. so I figured out the number of sensors but the reason I didn't change them is because I'm not getting any codes even when I hook the car up and have it tested. I have changed so many parts but I think I'll replace the o2 sensors soon to see it it helps .. Damn things cost about 300 bucks
Khalid AlNajjar explain to me exactly whats going on with the car. it you are not getting 02 sensor codes then its no need to change them. does the car start up then shut off? you may have a bad pcm. for a quicker response email me 20bello@gmail.com
Just so you know people... THIS IS THE EVAP tube not letting idle air in... My CAR DID THE EXACT same thing, if you want to test UNPLUG THE EVAP LINE FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND IT WILL IDLE WARM... this is a "closed loop" issue... you throttle body will fully close and should receive idle air from the evap system... IF that is clogged your car will stall(open the throttle body and it will breath). I am going to open the evap system.. you can try the new gas tank recall. Lifetime... new tank is like 2000$ installed so enjoy. This 100% is the evap system.
@@thaddbrailsord1391 have you unplugged the evap line to the intake and it stays running? I actually back blew that line and it opened up. you need to do it between the tank and the evap line. So take off at the evap solenoid and blow, it should blow open into the tank, you might have to take the gas cap off. You can suck but be careful. Once that is open you should be able to idle with all the lines hooked up.
Hey man I’m having the same EXACT problem on my 2009 2.7l Dodge Charger i changed O2 sens, injectors, ignition coils, spark plugs, both rear fuel pumps, egr valves + gasgets map sensor, fuel relay, all fuses, coolant temperature sensor, air filter, All o rings and gasgets… still stalling still has minimal to no power and jerks in rpms and power even worse when driven, usually will stall when come to a stop. If you have any information you can give me let me know I’m about to just bite the bullet and pay the dealership however much to tell me what the Hells going on🙏
I am having this same problem and it’s driving me crazy because I can’t figure out what it is replaced the filter used fuel system cleaner and still the same thing had a tune up right before I got it
Did you get this fixed? Mine did the same thing for over a year and I finally found out what the issue was. 20$ fix. Hit me up If your still having issues!
Mine does this only when it’s Cold (C). It will start then lights will start flickering then vehicle will shake then it stalls out, it starts working fine when it’s warmed up at about 25% on the (C) and (H) gauge, and the last thing is when I barley push the pedal to go 5-15 MPH my vehicle also wants to stall so I end up accidentally peeling out of driveways and turns screeching my tires
@@pepper10santos My bad. Didn’t see the other comment. Mine was mass air flor sensor in my air intake was dirty and ever since I changed it my car runs flawless without stalling
@@andrewdouglas2609 Mass air flow sensor was dirty so I first cleaned it. That fixed issue. Sorry it took so long to reply. I also bought a new one and put it in since just because they are so cheap. Still running good.
From cars I've worked on, I've noticed parts like -Spark plugs -Fuel Regulators -EGR Systems, (EGR Valves, etc) And - Dirty Air Filters make cars Stall or Misfire. I would look for misfires if it shakes while in Drive or Idle
I have same issue right now on my 2006 300c srt8 but no engine light on but same stalling issue only at low rpm driving I have no issues only when I stop and it shakes like a misfire HELP !! I also have codes u0100 p0700 cleared them with scanner waiting to see if they come back but still stalling sometimes after clearing just them two codes like I said no engine light on only stalls at low rpm help me please anything ??
keith stpierre Did you ever figure out what the problem was?? I'm having the exact same problem. I'll be driving down the road at any speed and in a split second my rpms drop, the engine and oil light comes on, then it goes back to normal or it dies. But I'm throwing both those codes.
My 3.5l police is doing the same. As soon as i start it up, stalls. One day it did it about 10 times while driving under a mile. TCM replaced twice, crankshaft sensor replaced, ALL 02 sensors replaced. All of them. Transmission flush, fresh oil change and spark plugs replaced. As well as a two day old IAT sensor. Still, nothing. 6 shops out here, including a dodge dealership, cannot figure it out.
It's not an o2 problem. look at long and short term fuel trim short term should go negative to positive. long term should be 5 to 7 positive. of they are both high then you may have a stuck open purge valve. also may have bad roll over valve in the gas tank
Dodge has a lifetime warranty on that gas tank it still may not fix the problem I just had mine replaced it is having some issues but there is a problem with the fuel tank that causes stalls
mine has a problem where if i press the gas pedal to the end it stalls and shakes i diagnosed it they said its the crankshaft sensor hope its nothing serious
are you getting any codes? the crankshaft sensor is located behind the starter. You have to remove the starter to get to it if you are going to do it yourself but its fairly easy
You have to replace the fuel tank dodge has extended the 36,000mi warranty to life time the dealership will replace it for free but only for 05 and 06 chargers,300 and magnums.
My car was doing the same thing, my problem was the engine light 02 sensor, Map sensor my coolant was low had to do a flush but I still having problems
I have the same issue but mine only happens when I fill up the tank. And all the times mine stall was when I was driving away from the station and I pulled off the road just before it died
yea that is a common problem on chargers. i read research that says that you have to replace the whole gas tank. i think my prob is the evap purge valve though
hi I have a 2006 charger doing the same thing I have seen that it could be the pcm connection and u can zip tie it tighter for a better connection and I seen that another guy changed his coils and it got better, have u figured out what's going on with ur car yet still searching for answers for my car.
Had the same issue spent lots of money trying to fix the problem. Well I am about to tell you what I learned and it was the easiest thing to check. advise anyone and everyone to do some homework on what is called the 5 V reference. Not only will you relies how easy as well as dumb the problem is you will know how important it is to learn as much as you can . Problem is that the 2006 RT model needs the ground wire to be completely replaced whats ging on is that the computers are not receiving a constent 5 volt current
Cody Cronen where is that Ground wire at??
German Bahena okay so what you're looking for is the main ground wire that runs from the back of the car where the where the rear control module battery is all the way underneath it you'll have to look and find where it's getting laid out and underneath there all the way up into the engine compartment to the battery I believe or the front control module can't exactly remember which where it was connected to but the thing I did is I got a thicker cable and I made sure that we're I started in the back was a very clean spot of the car and grounded out to the car they're all the way up to the front and then I also grounded it from there from the front in the compartment there to the motor to the engine block start with that let me know if that works for you a 10-day work for me and basically what it's happening is that there's a thing called a 5-volt reference and what it is it's your alternator I believe this ending a constant 5 volt current to your main I believe five or six computers if I remember correct a Dodge Charger anywhere from 16 to 18 I believe if any of those five or six computers is not receiving a constant 5 volt reference or current it'll act as if it was that needs to compensate which is what your car is trying to do and I don't know about you but I am I process of this whole thing I like 30 to 39 something different alarms and codes so I 1st pay no attention to them start with the ground and it is by far the cheapest and the easiest things to work with I don't know if you have an RT or if you have any aftermarket parts if you do that's one reason why you would need to take a ground cable to make sure that I can handle that also I know it's mine I was converting mine into mine was an RT into a Scat Pack stage 1 2 and then finally the stage 3 and every time you put in a high-performance part like that you have to flash the PCM and basically so I can reach the new parameters and things like that sorry this was kind of a long-winded message if you have any problems or questions or anything like that let me know again and then what I'll do is I'll just go ahead and give you my number to text me or call me on in fact you could probably find me on Facebook under Cody Cronen and I will be more than happy to explain a little bit more detail like what I had going on exactly what I was going through and it took me over a year to figure it out. Two Dodge dealerships had my car for over a month and a half each and they could not figure out for the life than what the hell is wrong with it then a buddy of mine had sent me a text message saying research 5-volt reference and I did and it took me awhile to grasp it and understand exactly what they were saying but it worked with these newer cars they are very particular and anytime there's a slightly difference in what the computer knows and what it supposed to know it will throw itself into theft mode or or limp mode Sony time you take an oem park off of the car and replace with an aftermarket car part it will puts off an alarm and put itself in limp mode and stuff so it's very important when you replace these parts and things like that you you get the factory parts or get the actual mopar parts and things like that for your for the car the other issue I had right after the ground wires and sent my car to starter that caught on fire I did notice some loose wiring down there and I didn't really pay attention to it but it end up catching on fire got it out likely fast enough but what happened was because the car caught on fire and he immediately read that an alarm and it shut the shut the fuel pump off and locked it basically so that no fuel to go to the fuel rail so the car doesn't blow up you know what happens when you get in a car accident two cars now they just shut off like that and it won't let you start back up so now I got to go and take my code reader and I got to erase that code and tell the car that it's okay so that the fuel pump will complete the circuit and allow the fuel pump to turn on when I start the car so that's where I'm at right now. one last thing there are ways to check that 5-volt reference you do have to get there is a proper tool for for checking that but you have to really go to a shop or dealership that do it you can look online and I mean I don't know how mechanically inclined or engineering you know how to do but you can build one from scratch and and use it to test like I said let me know If you have any question or need more details on anything then what I'll do is I'll just give you my number or you can find me on Facebook and message me on there and I can definitely give you more information amd or walk you through on what or how to fix it
I’m going to try this.
Cody Cronen I can use some help with this.
@@bearclaw23581 ok so mines will stall while I’m driving low speed or high speed or at idle at a stop sign starts right back up usally but will stall again after trying to drive a few seconds or minutes it’s really unpredictable I’ve spent about $700 in parts fuel pump fuel sending unit instrument cluster cleaned throttle body oil pressure switch cleaned all the connectors I could reach and see where your problems like this? Do you think a bigger ground wire will fix my problem only codes I have are o2 sensors now PLEASE HELP!
Intake manifold gaskets I had that issue and they fixed my problem.
if u have this issue check and make sure u have OEM/mopar o2 sensors. DO NOT USE BOSCH. That was the problem with mine. Its now fixed
20bello I know its been a year but I hope you reply. My charger started stalling recently and I have no idea why.. How many sensors did you change and where are they located ? I only know of 2 sensors in the exhaust :/
what are the codes?
Khalid AlNajjar there are four sensors in chargers. two before the catalytic converter and 2 after. The 2 before are up near the manifold. you have to get under the car to see them. What codes are you getting?
20bello thank you very much for the reply. so I figured out the number of sensors but the reason I didn't change them is because I'm not getting any codes even when I hook the car up and have it tested. I have changed so many parts but I think I'll replace the o2 sensors soon to see it it helps .. Damn things cost about 300 bucks
Khalid AlNajjar explain to me exactly whats going on with the car. it you are not getting 02 sensor codes then its no need to change them. does the car start up then shut off? you may have a bad pcm. for a quicker response email me 20bello@gmail.com
Clean out the carbon on the throttle body and reset ,worked for me.
How to reset it!?
Just so you know people... THIS IS THE EVAP tube not letting idle air in... My CAR DID THE EXACT same thing, if you want to test UNPLUG THE EVAP LINE FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND IT WILL IDLE WARM... this is a "closed loop" issue... you throttle body will fully close and should receive idle air from the evap system... IF that is clogged your car will stall(open the throttle body and it will breath). I am going to open the evap system.. you can try the new gas tank recall. Lifetime... new tank is like 2000$ installed so enjoy. This 100% is the evap system.
I had the same issue with mines. I changed the throttle body and it idles a bit better. How do I solve the problem?
@@thaddbrailsord1391 have you unplugged the evap line to the intake and it stays running? I actually back blew that line and it opened up. you need to do it between the tank and the evap line. So take off at the evap solenoid and blow, it should blow open into the tank, you might have to take the gas cap off. You can suck but be careful. Once that is open you should be able to idle with all the lines hooked up.
Hey man I’m having the same EXACT problem on my 2009 2.7l Dodge Charger i changed O2 sens, injectors, ignition coils, spark plugs, both rear fuel pumps, egr valves + gasgets map sensor, fuel relay, all fuses, coolant temperature sensor, air filter, All o rings and gasgets… still stalling still has minimal to no power and jerks in rpms and power even worse when driven, usually will stall when come to a stop. If you have any information you can give me let me know I’m about to just bite the bullet and pay the dealership however much to tell me what the Hells going on🙏
@@kylerchaffin5814 bro if u find out anything lettttttt meeeeeee knowww
I would like to chat with u, if u don’t Mind.
I had my PCM changed as well and it solved the problem
gag4s did it fix it from sayin o2 sensors bad
I am having this same problem and it’s driving me crazy because I can’t figure out what it is replaced the filter used fuel system cleaner and still the same thing had a tune up right before I got it
did you ever find the problem because my car is does the exact same thing
Did you get this fixed? Mine did the same thing for over a year and I finally found out what the issue was. 20$ fix. Hit me up
If your still having issues!
How did you fix it I'm having the same problems but you're hearing alot of different causes out there. Wht did you do ??
Mine does this only when it’s Cold (C). It will start then lights will start flickering then vehicle will shake then it stalls out, it starts working fine when it’s warmed up at about 25% on the (C) and (H) gauge, and the last thing is when I barley push the pedal to go 5-15 MPH my vehicle also wants to stall so I end up accidentally peeling out of driveways and turns screeching my tires
dude that's messed up we just want our cars back and you're holdin' out for what? give it up dude!!
@@pepper10santos My bad. Didn’t see the other comment. Mine was mass air flor sensor in my air intake was dirty and ever since I changed it my car runs flawless without stalling
@@andrewdouglas2609 Mass air flow sensor was dirty so I first cleaned it. That fixed issue. Sorry it took so long to reply. I also bought a new one and put it in since just because they are so cheap. Still running good.
From cars I've worked on, I've noticed parts like
-Spark plugs
-Fuel Regulators
-EGR Systems, (EGR Valves, etc)
And
- Dirty Air Filters make cars Stall or Misfire.
I would look for misfires if it shakes while in Drive or Idle
How u get the gmcode in dash
did ur car run like shit and try to die down when u came to a stop thats what mine is doing n pissing me off. just did timing chain and still does it
I have same issue right now on my 2006 300c srt8 but no engine light on but same stalling issue only at low rpm driving I have no issues only when I stop and it shakes like a misfire HELP !! I also have codes u0100 p0700 cleared them with scanner waiting to see if they come back but still stalling sometimes after clearing just them two codes like I said no engine light on only stalls at low rpm help me please anything ??
keith stpierre Did you ever figure out what the problem was?? I'm having the exact same problem. I'll be driving down the road at any speed and in a split second my rpms drop, the engine and oil light comes on, then it goes back to normal or it dies. But I'm throwing both those codes.
Did you figure this out?? Mine idle is fluctuating and it stalls out.
My 3.5l police is doing the same. As soon as i start it up, stalls. One day it did it about 10 times while driving under a mile. TCM replaced twice, crankshaft sensor replaced, ALL 02 sensors replaced. All of them. Transmission flush, fresh oil change and spark plugs replaced. As well as a two day old IAT sensor. Still, nothing. 6 shops out here, including a dodge dealership, cannot figure it out.
what kind of 02 sensors did you use?
Xero DeLaMortai what did you do to get it fixed?
Pcm
@vampiremanful did you ever get it fixed?
Did you check your short rubber valves in the intake?
It's not an o2 problem. look at long and short term fuel trim short term should go negative to positive. long term should be 5 to 7 positive. of they are both high then you may have a stuck open purge valve. also may have bad roll over valve in the gas tank
it happened to be the 02 sensors...they were replaced with NGK, worked fine then I sold the car
@@20bello wait so you fixed the car and it was just the 02 sensor?
Dodge has a lifetime warranty on that gas tank it still may not fix the problem I just had mine replaced it is having some issues but there is a problem with the fuel tank that causes stalls
thankS! I ended up getting rid of the car
Did You Fix The Problem?
it turned out to be O2 sensors not operating correctly
@@20bello sounds legit... they can do that w/o throwing a check engine light.
did you ever fix it my is doing the same thing
brent cassels same issue... smh. Any way to fix it without replacing the o2 sensors?
I got rid of the car. the only time it would not stall is if I disconnected the upstream 02 sensors.
Map sensor ! Sits on back of the air intake manifold mine did the same I swapped it it’s fixed.
I have changed all of these things and my car is still stalling I seen it can be bad pcm connection or new coils needed...common for this car.
mine has a problem where if i press the gas pedal to the end it stalls and shakes i diagnosed it they said its the crankshaft sensor hope its nothing serious
are you getting any codes? the crankshaft sensor is located behind the starter. You have to remove the starter to get to it if you are going to do it yourself but its fairly easy
i changed the sensors but the problem is still there i did a diagnose again it said cylinder 1 mis fire
crazy
MO E what are the exact codes. if you are getting cylinder misfire 1 that could be a faulty spark plug. that happened to me too. one was blown
i still dont know i will give to a dealer tomorrow and they will diagnose it again
You have to replace the fuel tank dodge has extended the 36,000mi warranty to life time the dealership will replace it for free but only for 05 and 06 chargers,300 and magnums.
It's the pcm
I did that and still having the same problem, no codes 🤦🏽♂️
My car was doing the same thing, my problem was the engine light 02 sensor, Map sensor my coolant was low had to do a flush but I still having problems
Mine over heated and then the next day i turned it and dis is happening anyone know what it can be?
Low oil, blown head gasket, among other things..
I have the same issue but mine only happens when I fill up the tank. And all the times mine stall was when I was driving away from the station and I pulled off the road just before it died
yea that is a common problem on chargers. i read research that says that you have to replace the whole gas tank. i think my prob is the evap purge valve though
the problem ended up being bosch O2 sensors. had to replace them with OEM
Did you ever figure out why it stalled after filling up with fuel
@@truthfulteachingsautorepai5475 any help? Having same issue.
I'm having the same problem let me no if any one got it fix
your fuel pressure regulator can also cause your car to stall
Yea it would
That fuel filter on right
Just so people know......2005 and up Charger, Magnum, and 300's do not have replaceable fuel filters.
my problem was a pcv valve was loose ,I replace and the problem go away
Fuel pump n change the filter on other side
Change out the ECM/PCM
wrong... its a closed loop issue.
That’s the fuel rail
I got a charger now and its doing the same thing I’m waiting on my pcm now
Them codes mean not getting enough gas flow fuel pump and u matters well change fuel filter on other side it got pressure regulator on that
DODGE NEEDS TO BE SUED
I HAVE A 2006 2.7 MAGNUM
SAME DAMN THING
can't use 87 unleaded
webster sellers If u happen to use that gas accidentally...how do you repair...wait till it gets low and refuel with right gas?
89 or above. You have a hemi.. feeding it basic gas
It's a dodge what else needs said
TPS and a mis
E.G.R ❌
wrong
hi I have a 2006 charger doing the same thing I have seen that it could be the pcm connection and u can zip tie it tighter for a better connection and I seen that another guy changed his coils and it got better, have u figured out what's going on with ur car yet still searching for answers for my car.
Damn you fine !! What’s the ig@
Bro check your altenator