Injora SCX10 and TRX4 LCG Chassis Reviews
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- Опубліковано 13 бер 2023
- Hi guys,
Both the Injora SCX10 and TRX4 chassis are really solid for the money. Check out the links below to see a guy who takes competition seriously running the SCX10 version (Exocaged RC). For my purposes (building and farting around) both are a legit improvement over stock for crawling or adding speed stability. Obviously, for competition you can spend a bunch of money and find all sorts of upgrades or pretty much every part in a crawler. Both these kits are pretty much can't go wrong type value and the quality is pretty good. Having some screws, nuts, washers and bits like link ends kicking around is always helpful when you start building cars on your own.
Injora Website (very reliable): www.injora.com
Exocaged running links: • PowerHobby Injora Craw...
• PowerHobby Dravtech an...
• Why did the PowerHobby...
Exocaged build vid: • PowerHobby Injora Carb...
SCX10 LCG Inner fender on my Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:583...
Dualie wheels: www.thingiverse.com/thing:583...
Do you drive to wrench or do you wrench to drive? - Авто та транспорт
Heat Shrink on the drive line works best thank you for the great videos
I’ve been looking for an in depth review of these products , Thank you for the review and upload 🙋🏻♂️
Injora has come a long way in quality over the years. They have had lots of great equipment for the price for people on a budget ❤ you do get what you pay for.
I have the trx4 version and I love it.
On your rear shocks, I added a 3d printed resin washer (3.5mm ID, 7mm OD, 1mm thick) on the lower cap to fix the usual leakage problem... I also swapped with the similar shocks but without the faux shock reservoir and they're equipped with a shock bladder at their solid top cap... The shocks are very good since you could easily modify the shocks into an emulsion shocks just by easily removing the bladder and adding a 9mm ID and 1mm CS o-ring at the top cap...
Love My Injora (Scx10) LCG Build ! Budget Cheater Rig ! Ar44 Axles ! It Rocks 4 The $ !
Lol
Great review.. it is intereeting that your are using a scx10 axle in a scx10ii chassis.
Per injora those axles that you are using does not fit that kit... but you did great job 😊
Your lower links are on the wrong way
뒤티이어 두개를 어떻게 붙인거에요?
Did your motor collide with front driveshaft on front shock compression?
Good question, meant to mention this. Plenty of room on both (I assume you are asking about the TRX4 chassis). My build, the TRX4 front axle bottoms out on the panhard bar pretty much the exact same point that the shocks bottom (90mm shocks). There is min 5mm, by my eye 7mm clearance from drive shaft to 3650 motor (there is room to fit a 550/3660). The SCX10 actually doesn't have room for a 550 facing forward because the upper link gets in the way. A 3650 or 540 can motor fits.
@@drivetowrench2709 yea, i was talking about trx chasis, in my case 550 colide with driveshaft just before front is fully compresed. Im using some kind of cheap axial capra portals with pumpkin on left side and was curious about trx axles. Also checked links after your tip with spacers and you ware right, they are rubbing against chasis. I'll probably stay with capra axles, was thinking about changing skidplate and transmission for something wihout motor at the front but i like 2 gears, maybe shorter brushless motor would work but i wanted fusion se with is longer. Quality is "chinease". My tubes ware 75%ok, 1 had same issue like you, some screws ware missing, there was so much carbon dust that i had to wash it all of. Also tip for motor mount, check gearmesh after hard landings on the roof, in my case motor motor moved bit down from the hit and before i noticed pinion gear was fucked up, now its super noisy, waiting for spare.
@@mistrzkoxu Good tips. I forgot to mention how slippery the carbon is. I didn't expect that tape wouldn't stick to it, so I can see how the motor might slip. Might have to make a follow up and test fit Redcat XR247 and Chinese Wraith axles to see how they fit. XR247s work nice on the stock TRX4 chassis. I also like the 2spd and that TRX4 unit is pretty bullet proof
Hi, how do you install the difflock servo mount? I’m still unable to find the location to install it
If you look at the parts inventory picture on the Injora site, at the bottom left of the corner with the trans mount parts is a little flat bar(ish) thingy - that is the adapter to attach the servo mount. I do seem to recall that it took me a minute or two to figure out how it was supposed to fit, but I want to say that it only went one way and once I had it right it was one of those "duh" moments
@@drivetowrench2709 thanks man!
@@drivetowrench2709 thanks man, the servo mount are sorted now. How’s the wheelbase on your kit? Is it 313 or a little bit longer? I already using the “313” link set come with the kit, even swapped it with another longer link set but still can’t make it to 313 wheelbase, always longer. I also come across about several youtube videos facing same problems, can’t build it into 313 wb
@@albericmiftah My axles are stock Traxxas. Space between the chassis mount holes is 90-91mm. Weird, mine's actually 310, maybe 311 and I think they are all link ends that came with the kit, so turning out the ends would get it to 313 easily. I would probably crack out the old rotary tool and cut a little off each end of the links (I get it though, that's annoying)
@@drivetowrench2709 Thank you! All is sorted now after slight modifying the link ends. Another question, does the gear mesh / placement between motor & transmission in this kit are a litte too far? I have to move my pinion gear very far, almost at the end of the motor shaft to get it mesh with the transmission. Even that, the gear mesh aren’t covering completely. I don’t know wether it’s my motor shaft that are too short, or the motor mount in this kit are too thick causing the motor placement a litte backwards
Would you happen to have the stl to the front servo mount for the trx4?
It needs some massaging to work but here's a link www.thingiverse.com/thing:6008364