Hello i was actually looking into replacing my headers on f-150 and as i was watching your video at minute 7:56 - 8:10 i cant help but to notice that you have captured an EVP.
They are very hard to get to, I used a 13mm deep socket, a swivel with a long extension and some imagination on my 2002 4.6, replacing the head gaskets and installing headers since it is all took apart anyways
Are these JBAs holding up no cracks or splits? I bought some shorty headers on Ebay the passenger side didn't line up I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up its like the collector wasn't angled & turned in the right direction when it was welded to match the down pipe.
I've been going through this nightmare methodically. By far the toughest two aspects are the top starter bolt and the front bottom exhaust flange bolt. You don't really show how this is done so at all.
We sawzalled the flange bolt on the manifolds. On the starter bolt a really long extension that put the rachet in front of the motor mount to give us room to turn it. Sorry for the delay.
I just did my starter on my 5.4 3 days ago that top bolt is a shit show. What I used to get out this bolt is in order. 13mm deep socket, 3 inch extension, swivel socket, 30 degree swiveling socket, 3 inch extension, then 3 6 inch extensions put together. All of this is 3/8 drive. Having the extra long reach allows you too have the ratchet out by the rotor for more force. Hope this helps!
you can also take that heatshield off that has the 3 10mm bolts then use a long wobble extension with the 18mm socket to get that top flange bolt from the undercarriage
great video! i am wondering how you jacked the engine up or what you would recommenced. i don't have an engine jack and ive been told to not jack it by the oil pan even with a 2x4 underneath. i have a 2010 as well and buying the same headers. i feel like if anything ill just take a hammer to the header to make it fit. on an episode of engine masters they dented headers and showed it didn't effect performance. Thank you in advance.
Nick Franecki do not jack with 2x4 from oil pan, jack with 2x4 from AC compressor screws. Mold header with hammer lightly, depending on header material. I just installed mine, i got LTs i still can tighten 2 screws above the starter, if i remove starter and tighten header in place. The starter top bolt will not go in,
Sorry I did not get back with you sooner. I agree with avoiding using a jack on a oil pan. Once the starter is removed, you will see a cast iron flange you can use with a piece of wood, or I have used the bolt heads of the oil pan as well, but you would want to make sure the bolt heads stick out further than the oil pan flange to avoid springing the pan edge. The AC compressor screws would work fine as well. You can always use something like a bottle jack with a piece of wood too. Once the passenger side of the engine was up, I slid another piece of wood between the mounts. I know some others have dented the header, but in my opinion, the factory would have dented it if it was a better choice and I did not want to disturb the ceramic coating. You are paying for a tested product by people that do this everyday, and it does work with a little more patience. Please let me know if you have any other questions Nick. Please like and subscribe so I know making additional videos are helping others.
Dr.Rick's Garage yeah I've been told by people I can use the pan but I refuse to do that. I never thought about looking around the starter are for a jacking point so thank you for that info and no worries, in starting my project on the 19th this month. Thank you both!
great job where did you jack the motor I have a engine support bar but not sure where I can jack and what can I fasten the chain from the bar to the motor and great video ,great job
We actually don’t have that camper anymore we got rid of it a couple years ago and now we only tow a 10 ft 4 wheeler trailer and a small motorcycle trailer and a super lite 20 ft aluminum trailer. If I remember right when we still had the 25’ camper we were getting around 18 highway with a perform chip from hypertech and a cold air intake from volant along with the header.
@@DrRicksGarage Surely you didn't mean you were getting 18 mpg while towing? I get that without towing and go down to 9 while towing a 23' ultralite. 5,000 lbs fully loaded.
It definitely gave me more power I’m not sure exactly how much. I think that for me it was worth it because I had to get new exhaust mana folds anyway. I think if you want more power this would be one of the best ways.
We are trying to locate the video but we just moved so we are getting organized with are UA-cam channel we will try to post it soon, but we also have a lot of other videos on the way!
Don’t do this! I’ve gone thru 2 sets of JBA shorty headers on my 2005 f150.. 2nd set didn’t even last 10 mins and they creaked.. jba will replace them but then you have to take off the header again! And again.. and again.. nope.. I went back to OEM manifolds
There is a couple of slots holes on the header so I could start the bolt first and then set the header in place and then I used a wrench to start anything else with small turns. If you don't mind please like and subscribe so we can focus on the UA-cam channel and answer the questions faster
I like ford but their early 2000s are very questionable as to why they made everything so damn complicated, it shouldn’t be this hard to remove exhaust manifolds they should’ve placed the engine in like they always did. I also do understand why they did, because if this design of gave room for better crumple zones so the safety on these trucks are 5 stars instead of 1 star like the 1997-2003 models
The trouble you had with the top exhaust bolt/nut shows you just how little automotive engineers/designers know about car design. Know what would have made that infinitely easier? Have a bolt and nut combo that can be accessed from the top. Would have been out in 2 minutes. Same as the bottom: bolt and nut bingo, out in no time. Even if it was rusted to rat shit. Just break them, then the exhaust joint would come apart. Do they do that? nope. Instead they thread the bolt into the manifold. In fact, if they'd just drilled out the hole instead of tapping it for a bolt, it would save them money in the long run. Same as the exhaust manifold studs themselves. How easy would it be for everyone to swap the manifold if the bolts were stainless from the factory? What would the cost increase be per vehicle? $1.00? Do they do that? nope. Instead they throw money into colour changing LEDs, wifi, 3d cameras, blah blah blah.
They don't care. I feel bad for the mechanic that work on these daily, like the dealer mechanics. I've worked on alot of vehicles, but this truck I hate the most, especially anything to do with that engine bay. They want you to remove the cab on every single job.
Hello i was actually looking into replacing my headers on f-150 and as i was watching your video at minute 7:56 - 8:10 i cant help but to notice that you have captured an EVP.
Haha that’s my daughter
I wish you would show how you go the bottom bolts out.
They are very hard to get to, I used a 13mm deep socket, a swivel with a long extension and some imagination on my 2002 4.6, replacing the head gaskets and installing headers since it is all took apart anyways
Here in Wisconsin, I just did one of these. 7 out of 8 studs broke off in the head. Your lucky you don't live here.
Impact swivel sockets would’ve saved you a lot of time
Not enough room on the bottom ones. I've tried.
Take a shot every time Dr. Rick says: Christmas 🎄 Tree..
Cheer's
The factory recommends that you lift the engine to replace the exhaust manifolds.
So ??
Are these JBAs holding up no cracks or splits? I bought some shorty headers on Ebay the passenger side didn't line up I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up its like the collector wasn't angled & turned in the right direction when it was welded to match the down pipe.
Yeah they have held up fine I think I’ve had them for 3 years and no problems.
Did you ever do the driver side?
I've been going through this nightmare methodically. By far the toughest two aspects are the top starter bolt and the front bottom exhaust flange bolt. You don't really show how this is done so at all.
We sawzalled the flange bolt on the manifolds. On the starter bolt a really long extension that put the rachet in front of the motor mount to give us room to turn it. Sorry for the delay.
I just did my starter on my 5.4 3 days ago that top bolt is a shit show. What I used to get out this bolt is in order. 13mm deep socket, 3 inch extension, swivel socket, 30 degree swiveling socket, 3 inch extension, then 3 6 inch extensions put together. All of this is 3/8 drive. Having the extra long reach allows you too have the ratchet out by the rotor for more force. Hope this helps!
you can also take that heatshield off that has the 3 10mm bolts then use a long wobble extension with the 18mm socket to get that top flange bolt from the undercarriage
Did you end up using the gasket that came with the JBA headers or another brand?
We ended up using the gasket that came with the JBA header.
great video! i am wondering how you jacked the engine up or what you would recommenced. i don't have an engine jack and ive been told to not jack it by the oil pan even with a 2x4 underneath. i have a 2010 as well and buying the same headers. i feel like if anything ill just take a hammer to the header to make it fit. on an episode of engine masters they dented headers and showed it didn't effect performance. Thank you in advance.
Nick Franecki do not jack with 2x4 from oil pan, jack with 2x4 from AC compressor screws. Mold header with hammer lightly, depending on header material. I just installed mine, i got LTs i still can tighten 2 screws above the starter, if i remove starter and tighten header in place. The starter top bolt will not go in,
Sorry I did not get back with you sooner. I agree with avoiding using a jack on a oil pan. Once the starter is removed, you will see a cast iron flange you can use with a piece of wood, or I have used the bolt heads of the oil pan as well, but you would want to make sure the bolt heads stick out further than the oil pan flange to avoid springing the pan edge. The AC compressor screws would work fine as well. You can always use something like a bottle jack with a piece of wood too. Once the passenger side of the engine was up, I slid another piece of wood between the mounts. I know some others have dented the header, but in my opinion, the factory would have dented it if it was a better choice and I did not want to disturb the ceramic coating. You are paying for a tested product by people that do this everyday, and it does work with a little more patience. Please let me know if you have any other questions Nick.
Please like and subscribe so I know making additional videos are helping others.
Dr.Rick's Garage yeah I've been told by people I can use the pan but I refuse to do that. I never thought about looking around the starter are for a jacking point so thank you for that info and no worries, in starting my project on the 19th this month. Thank you both!
How did the project go? Hopefully it went smooth for you
MontoyatheRager so did you remove starter or not ???
Do they make those headers for the 4.6 3v
Has toe gas mileage improved with the new headers?
I went from avg mpg of 14.8 to 16.4
Delete your cats and you’ll gain about 17hp and 2 mpg
Cold air intake along with a throttle body spacer and you’ll be right at 20mpg
Can you list the tools that you need it to take it down! Please 🙏
great job where did you jack the motor I have a engine support bar but not sure where I can jack and what can I fasten the chain from the bar to the motor and great video ,great job
I have those same Crocs.
Was there a difference?
Thank you
With them new exhaust manifolds how was your gas mileage after Towing
We actually don’t have that camper anymore we got rid of it a couple years ago and now we only tow a 10 ft 4 wheeler trailer and a small motorcycle trailer and a super lite 20 ft aluminum trailer. If I remember right when we still had the 25’ camper we were getting around 18 highway with a perform chip from hypertech and a cold air intake from volant along with the header.
@@DrRicksGarage Surely you didn't mean you were getting 18 mpg while towing? I get that without towing and go down to 9 while towing a 23' ultralite. 5,000 lbs fully loaded.
have you seen any kind of hp gains? wanting to buy shortys for my 4.6 but wwant to know if its worth it..
It definitely gave me more power I’m not sure exactly how much. I think that for me it was worth it because I had to get new exhaust mana folds anyway. I think if you want more power this would be one of the best ways.
What about the other side?
We are trying to locate the video but we just moved so we are getting organized with are UA-cam channel we will try to post it soon, but we also have a lot of other videos on the way!
Any luck finding that other Video? Or are you rolling around with one right header? Jk
How are they holding up?
Good had them for about 3 years everything’s fine.
Dr. Ricks Garage thanks for the feed back
You need to get yourself a universal joint socket…
Do u have a 4.6l or 5.4l
How long does it take labour tune roughly
About 3 hours that gasket and those studs were a pain to figure out.
I would've sealed the cracks the best I could and keep it moving.
Don’t do this! I’ve gone thru 2 sets of JBA shorty headers on my 2005 f150.. 2nd set didn’t even last 10 mins and they creaked.. jba will replace them but then you have to take off the header again! And again.. and again.. nope.. I went back to OEM manifolds
Any headers for the 4.6 ??
Yes JBA does have several models for 4.6 depending on years.
How the hell do you get the nuts on the bottom studs of the passenger side when installing shorty headers on a 06 f 150
There is a couple of slots holes on the header so I could start the bolt first and then set the header in place and then I used a wrench to start anything else with small turns. If you don't mind please like and subscribe so we can focus on the UA-cam channel and answer the questions faster
5:13 😂😂 why u do her like that
I like ford but their early 2000s are very questionable as to why they made everything so damn complicated, it shouldn’t be this hard to remove exhaust manifolds they should’ve placed the engine in like they always did. I also do understand why they did, because if this design of gave room for better crumple zones so the safety on these trucks are 5 stars instead of 1 star like the 1997-2003 models
I like the fact that they have better safety, but it does make it a pain to work on.
The trouble you had with the top exhaust bolt/nut shows you just how little automotive engineers/designers know about car design.
Know what would have made that infinitely easier? Have a bolt and nut combo that can be accessed from the top. Would have been out in 2 minutes. Same as the bottom: bolt and nut bingo, out in no time. Even if it was rusted to rat shit. Just break them, then the exhaust joint would come apart.
Do they do that? nope. Instead they thread the bolt into the manifold. In fact, if they'd just drilled out the hole instead of tapping it for a bolt, it would save them money in the long run.
Same as the exhaust manifold studs themselves. How easy would it be for everyone to swap the manifold if the bolts were stainless from the factory? What would the cost increase be per vehicle? $1.00?
Do they do that? nope. Instead they throw money into colour changing LEDs, wifi, 3d cameras, blah blah blah.
Thanks for the tips.
Nope wrong! Theres a tool for every job. Swiveling impact sockets and swivel extensions
Engineers are idiots!!!
They don't care. I feel bad for the mechanic that work on these daily, like the dealer mechanics.
I've worked on alot of vehicles, but this truck I hate the most, especially anything to do with that engine bay.
They want you to remove the cab on every single job.
Im debating on headers vs a normal manifold, then ill get a muffler that magically fell off my f250 that i had nothing to do with lmao
I would get the headers if your going to replace it anyways
My mechanic wants 1,000 bucks to do mine