Thanks for this. Have a #2 circuit low and a cylinder 2 contribution balance code. FICM though I believe is high 47v so maybe bad FICM. No buzz or anything while running koeo test. Gonna try to swap 2 and 4 and rule out a harness before I jump under the valve cover
Sounds like cool gone bad. 47v isn’t horrible. Weak batteries can cause lower then desired ficm voltage at times, especially if key has been on and running test with scan tool. I wouldn’t even swap 2 and 4. Pick up a replacement injector. Disconnect injector 2 connector and plug new injector in. Run buzz test. If injector 2 circuit code goes away and it buzzes during test, just replace #2
Hey I'm wanting to rebuild my injectors after watching some of your videos do you still trust Bitterroot or is there anywhere else that I can find the coils and o-rings to do the job
What is the program you're using for the power balance test? IDS? I have access to a scanner that will do a balance test, but I can't remove the adaptive strategy (I think they call that an uncompensated cylinder contribution test?) Thanks for the videos! I just got done rebuilding a set of injectors. I wouldn't have even considered attempting it until I saw your series on it.
Great to hear that the videos helped. They are boring but I’m glad they help. I was using the IDS software. I just got forscan. I heard it has power balance. I’ll find out and update.
Have had similar problems...thought Sticton first time...tore down and cleaned...all good for about 2 weeks but started coming back....how often is it the coils vs the spools?? I tested ficm and been watching icp and ipr and they seem all in spec....I have been getting a few low circuit codes....any ideas?
@@showmerepair I recently had # 1 take a shit on me , I pulled the whole bank out # 1 the upper collar or bushing that holds the intensifier piston came apart and compressed the spring shortened by 1/2 inch and bent it, the same thing was happening to # 3 but had not failed yet, cleaned all and had good spray patterns , installed new springs and the collars or bushings on all four , I had no codes so I went with the original coils and it is running good,,, getting ready to do # 2 #4 # 6 and 8 and I was thinking of installing these new slotted coils but after seeing your burnt coil am not sure now ? 2006 with 106,000 miles I live in northwest WA. while not brutal winters it kills me when it convulses during a cold winter starts , just looking for your opinion ?
@@showmerepair I only replace the oil cooler I got it back together twice and doesn’t start door apart twice Is fuel and everything but injectors don’t fire If I spray some few starts
I’ve read you comment over and over. I’m having trouble understanding what your talking about. Are you talking about getting the spook valve in the wrong way?
@@showmerepair if the spool is hard to either side it wont leak HPO....there is a position or overlap where the HPO is vented for the shortest amount of time as the spool is moving sides ....2 circuits open at once
@@showmerepair its a very small window of time there both open ...HPO oil can leak out if the spool is in this exact position , from the upper nipple seal and lower oring under the spool , or a worn spool ....if you move some lighty switches very slowly from on to off theres a point where it'll arc and the light will flicker ..its both on and off lol
This coil is $70usd and Chinese made (+Shipping), at least it looks like.You can find OE Genuine quality coils and cheaper at www.california-diesel.com/collections/stators/products/so06-coil-g2-8-powerstroke-for-diesel-injectors
Such a good helpful video ! It nice when someone makes video like that, it's helpful!
Thanks for this. Have a #2 circuit low and a cylinder 2 contribution balance code. FICM though I believe is high 47v so maybe bad FICM. No buzz or anything while running koeo test. Gonna try to swap 2 and 4 and rule out a harness before I jump under the valve cover
Sounds like cool gone bad. 47v isn’t horrible. Weak batteries can cause lower then desired ficm voltage at times, especially if key has been on and running test with scan tool.
I wouldn’t even swap 2 and 4. Pick up a replacement injector. Disconnect injector 2 connector and plug new injector in. Run buzz test. If injector 2 circuit code goes away and it buzzes during test, just replace #2
Awesome videos man i dont own a diesal but still cool to learn maybe one day ill get one
Thank you
Hey I'm wanting to rebuild my injectors after watching some of your videos do you still trust Bitterroot or is there anywhere else that I can find the coils and o-rings to do the job
Bitter root diesel has very good quality and customer support.
Okay thank you so much
What is the program you're using for the power balance test? IDS? I have access to a scanner that will do a balance test, but I can't remove the adaptive strategy (I think they call that an uncompensated cylinder contribution test?)
Thanks for the videos! I just got done rebuilding a set of injectors. I wouldn't have even considered attempting it until I saw your series on it.
Great to hear that the videos helped. They are boring but I’m glad they help.
I was using the IDS software. I just got forscan. I heard it has power balance. I’ll find out and update.
"They are boring" he says. I must be a Powerstroke geek, because I find them interesting. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Have had similar problems...thought Sticton first time...tore down and cleaned...all good for about 2 weeks but started coming back....how often is it the coils vs the spools?? I tested ficm and been watching icp and ipr and they seem all in spec....I have been getting a few low circuit codes....any ideas?
that burnt coil had a slot in it , it that new coil that is suppose the cold weather stiction problem ?? thanks bob
bobsdogtag I was told by a person that commented on one of my other videos that the updated coils have a slot to help with stiction. So yes.
@@showmerepair thank you
Chris do you have any more info on that burnt coil ?
bobsdogtag what info are you needing? I’ll try to help
@@showmerepair I recently had # 1 take a shit on me , I pulled the whole bank out # 1 the upper collar or bushing that holds the intensifier piston came apart and compressed the spring shortened by 1/2 inch and bent it, the same thing was happening to # 3 but had not failed yet, cleaned all and had good spray patterns , installed new springs and the collars or bushings on all four , I had no codes so I went with the original coils and it is running good,,, getting ready to do # 2 #4 # 6 and 8 and I was thinking of installing these new slotted coils but after seeing your burnt coil am not sure now ? 2006 with 106,000 miles I live in northwest WA. while not brutal winters it kills me when it convulses during a cold winter starts , just looking for your opinion ?
How many both a text to get this injectable running
? How many volts to get the injector to fire?
@@showmerepair Yes is my question how many bowls a text to fire the injector
FICM M power should be minimum 48 volts
@@showmerepair I only replace the oil cooler I got it back together twice and doesn’t start door apart twice Is fuel and everything but injectors don’t fire If I spray some few starts
@@showmerepair Checked wire harness real close everything is good
Does it matter the position of the new coils?
Yes
just wondering what you found out with #5? Thanks for the torque specs.. also curious if you KNOW which coil OPENS the spool valve? Thanks!
it wont HPO leak stuck open or closed , there is a very very small overlap in positions where it could
I’ve read you comment over and over. I’m having trouble understanding what your talking about. Are you talking about getting the spook valve in the wrong way?
@@showmerepair if the spool is hard to either side it wont leak HPO....there is a position or overlap where the HPO is vented for the shortest amount of time as the spool is moving sides ....2 circuits open at once
Yea I agree
@@showmerepair its a very small window of time there both open ...HPO oil can leak out if the spool is in this exact position , from the upper nipple seal and lower oring under the spool , or a worn spool ....if you move some lighty switches very slowly from on to off theres a point where it'll arc and the light will flicker ..its both on and off lol
This coil is $70usd and Chinese made (+Shipping), at least it looks like.You can find OE Genuine quality coils and cheaper at www.california-diesel.com/collections/stators/products/so06-coil-g2-8-powerstroke-for-diesel-injectors
Thanks
Volts